Can't help in any way but what a pity we will miss each other. I fly to Ecuador Dec 1st then to Peru around 14th. Back Christmas Eve. First trip for me too to South America. We should compare notes afterwards. I am in the middle of planning, have found help on Trip Advisor and Thorn Tree. Also new LP Argentina also Ecuador is just out. LP Peru is out early Oct.
I think Argentine/Patagonia will be next for me as my daughter is moving there in January so I'll be following your progress.
Good luck. How's your Spanish??

"How's your Spanish??"

Lol. Half way through the BBC online course - http://www.bbc.co.uk/languages/spanish/mividaloca - may help that I supposedly learned Latin & French in school. How's yours?

Sorry to miss you - have a great trip! Have been reading the new LP at Barnes & Noble, but will likely travel with Footprints.

I haven't been to Salvador, but Mendoza was worth it. We took the bus across as well. The stop at the border in that direction was 4 hours, despite what the bus schedule says. 4 days in Valparaiso may be long. Santiago was a commercial city, with not a lot in terms of architecture, compared to other South American cities- the Concho y toro winery was great.

Watch out for prices in restaurants in Brazil. I have visited it a few times in the last ten years ( my father used to be an Ambassador there), and it has become very expensive now. The Brazilians are the friendliest people I have met. Of all the countries in South America we visited, we always ended up chatting with the Brazilians.

Uruguay is quaint. Montevideo has a European feel to it.Colonia was nice.

I would suggest using the Andesmar bus company. The VIP seats recline like airline business class. Plus personal video screens and food is served.

As for Spanish, smartphone apps can help. We learnt Spanish before going, and it was a big help in smaller cities.

What a problem to have!

I think the Uruguay portion might be too long, particularly if you're not a beach person....we spent the day in Colonia and that was the right amount of time, didn't get to Montevideo as it was Carnival and the ferries were booked.

Have you considered the NW area of Argentina (possibly instead of Salvador as it is more convenient to add to your Iguazu/Buenos Aires portion of the itinerary). The area is stunningly beautiful and has a lovely winery area.

And I'll make my standard pitch to someone who will arrive/leave from Santiago - have you considered 3 nights in Easter Island? There are some affordable packages and while it's still a long haul over there, it's likely as close as you'll be and well worth it!

A few thoughts:
The Navimag ferry is really a cargo ship There can be delays and postponements, especially outside of summer.

You can get a bus Bariloche to Mendoza if you want to bypass Neuquen. Check if there is one from SMdlA. I think it is Andesmar from Bariloche to Mendoza. Unless you have a good reason to visit Neuquen, it doesn't offer much to a tourist. I have bussed from Mendoza to Neuquen so there are busses, too long ago to remember a bus line. Use plataforma10.com to check.

5 nights in the lake district would be fine at that time of year if you wanted to use the days somewhere else.

If you are going to overnight in Torres del Paine, book now. The season seems to start earlier every year and things book up.

Go online and check the calendar for each country you will visit. Check the holidays and long weekends. These can play havoc with lodging and transport. For instance, if you are trying to bus between Santiago and Valparaíso (or the other way around) on the 7th or 8th of December, the highway will be closed for an annual religious event. They usually close it on the 7th in the afternoon, reopen late on the 8th but times vary. All buses will make a long detour which will add a couple of hours onto the trip. Nov 1st is usually a holiday eberywhere for All Saint's Day, but check individual calendars.

The Pre-columbian museum in Santiago is closed for expansion until late 2013 but don't miss the Centro Cultural La Moneda. They should have highlights of the collection on view there. It is worth a visit anyway.

Thanks for the input!

Elizabeth - yes, retirement is great! Although I definitely have more time than money, hence Navimag rather than Skorpios.

I'm saving NW Argentina for the next trip, flying into Santiago and going north. Actually, it would make sense to add Mendoza to that trip rather than this one - see below.

I had read that Easter Island was very expensive, very touristy and not that interesting. And a long time on a plane! If you have suggestions for something affordable I'll take a look, though.

Huentetu - yes, I've heard about the Navimag boat - when my friends were on it last year it actually hit an island and had to finish the trip at half speed! I'll pay close attention to the safety briefing... and it's another reason to take the earlier boat.

I was actually looking at plataforma10 - I can now find the direct bus, but I was thinking of breaking the trip at Neuquen and still don't see a Neuquen-Mendoza bus. However, I'm now thinking of going back across the Andes from San Martin and heading north more slowly on the Chilean side, saving Mendoza for the next trip, and stopping off at some hot springs.

I appreciate the warning about the Santiago museum and the religious festival. I had checked the public holidays, and I think it's only Nov 1st I have to worry about, and I'll be in BsAs for that. However, I was going to take the bus from Valparaiso to Santiago Dec 7th. I need to be in Santiago the night of the 9th, so maybe, especially since the museum is closed (I was looking forward to seeing that!) I should cut Santiago to one night for this trip - I'll have all day on the 10th as my flight leaves at 23:25.

Back to planning. At this point the critical items are the dates for the internal flights, and somewhere to stay in Rio. I'm thinking of trying airbnb, or suggestions for B&Bs/hostels/guesthouses welcome.

There are two ways across to Chile from San Martin de los Andes. One is a daily bus from San Martin to Pucón, a good area for hot springs. You do need to book this as soon as you get to San Martin (or in Bariloche if you will be there first) Buses San Martin or Igi Llaima. . The other is via the Hua Hum crossing which takes you on a brief ferry ride across a lake. You end up in Panguipulli. Buses Lafit does this crossing. Both are fun, both through national parks. less touristy than the crossing to Osorno from Bariloche.

If you go via Hua Hum, it is worth stopping here:
http://www.huilohuilo.com

The ferry:
http://www.barcazas.cl/barcazas/wp/?page_id=14

Huentetu - thanks! Huilo-Huilo looks lovely, but the accommodation is well out of my price range, just wish I could afford the Nawelpi Lodge. Will investigate the hot springs at Pucon.

Salvador Brazil? One of the most interesting cities in the world, IMO---music, African culture, beaches, food, wonderful people. Lots of Rio's 'traditional' culture is from folks from Salvador who moved there for job better opportunities. However, save it for a longer future trip that involves just (huge) Brazil, including beaches in Bahia and further up the coast, wildlife in the Pantanal, Colonial towns in the mountains of Minas Gerais, Chapada Diamantina, maybe the Amazon, the rain-formed lakes in the white dunes of the Parque Lencois in Maranhao, any of a plethora of seasonal festivals.......

VidaNaPraia - yes, I've decided to settle for just a taste of Brazil this time. In fact, I just bought a ticket for Rio to Iguacu on TAM.

I've given up on the air passes, and am buying individual tickets. Turned out I couldn't fly BsAs to El Calafate Nov 2 - either the flights are full or they're not flying that day! So I get an extra day in BsAs or at the falls. I've also realized it makes more sense to fly from Iguazu to Montevideo instead of stopping off in BsAs - it's cheaper, too!

Any opinion on whether a 1hr 10min layover at AEP is too short? Otherwise it looks like 4hrs or getting into Montevideo rather late.

I'm not sure of your dates in Bs As, but if you are there on a Sunday, I recommend Feria de Mataderos for the folk dancing.
http://www.buenostours.com/feria-de-mataderos We didn't take this tour, but went out there on our own via subte and taxi. Totally different from anything else in the city!

We spent three nights in El Calafate at Hosteria Hainen, small, reasonably priced hotel about a 10 minute walk from the main street. Juan, the manager, was extremely helpful in getting pricing and reservations for tours out to Perito Moreno and the All Glaciers boat trip. http://www.hosteriahainen.com/english/hosteria_en.html

Enjoy your trip!

colibri - thanks! The Hosteria looks nice - central heating and wifi - but could you define "reasonably priced"? I have now fixed the dates for the start of the trip:

Wed Oct 17 - arrive Rio at 09:10 (AA)

Sun Oct 21 - fly to Foz do Iguacu, arrive 12:22 (TAM)
--- I figure one night on the Brazilian side, then two nights on the Argentinian side. Would it make more sense to do three nights on the Argentinian side? My Fodor's "South America" (admittedly 2009 edition) recommends against spending the night on the Brazilian side, but the other books don't seem to agree.

Wed Oct 24 - fly to Montevideo, arrive 17:15 (Aerolineas)
--- I'm thinking three nights Montevideo, two nights Colonia

Mon Oct 29 - ferry to BsAs - do I need to book this ahead of time? Buquebus?

Sat Nov 3 - fly to El Calafate, arrive 15:10 (LAN)

So, I won't be in BsAs on a Sunday, unless I drop a night from Uruguay.

Next up: booking accommodation for Rio to BsAs, and planning itinerary for Patagonia.

"Wed Oct 17 - arrive Rio at 09:10 (AA)
Sun Oct 21 - fly to Foz do Iguacu, arrive 12:22 (TAM)
I figure one night on the Brazilian side, then two nights on the Argentinian side. Would it make more sense to do three nights on the Argentinian side? My Fodor's "South America" (admittedly 2009 edition) recommends against spending the night on the Brazilian side, but the other books don't seem to agree.
Wed Oct 24 - fly to Montevideo"

Ignore the guidebooks regarding sides.

There's really no point IMO in moving from one side to the other. Pick one. Either would be OK. It's according to individual taste (and you won't really know yours until you get there) and how you are planning your sightseeing time at the falls.

There are buses that go back and forth regularly between the bus station on the Argentine side and the bus depot on the Brazilian, that crosses the border. From there, you can get a bus to the park entrance on that respective side. Maybe 45 minutes of travel using the buses. Or you can get a taxi.

Foz is a bit larger, a small to medium sized city for Brazil, and with more options for food and accomodations. Puerto is supposed to be smaller and more laid back, but I only saw the bus station when transitting to that side of the park.

The Brazilian side of the park takes maybe 3-4 hours to walk and photograph. The Bird Park (well worth seeing IMO) is near the entrance. If you are thinking of a helicopter ride, that is also near the entrance. The Macuco Safari boat ride under Devils' Throat also originates from the Brazilian side.

The Argentine side of the park could take most of a day to walk the catwalk over the tops of the falls, the lower trail, maybe linger in the shade of a little falls runoff river to take a dip, etc, or could take just half a day.

For Rio and Foz accomodation suggestions, give a price range in reais.

VidaNaPraia - based on xe.com's exchange rate, under 120 would be great, under 150 would be good, under 200 would be OK. I could go higher, but would prefer not to. I don't have to be near the beaches.

I was definitely planning on the Bird Park, and the boat ride, not sure about the helicopter - do you have an idea of the cost? Since I'm flying out from the Argentinian airport, I suppose it would make sense to stay on that side, and from what I've read I think it will take me longer there. I'll give it some more thought. I'm a big fan of waterfalls, and was even thinking of staying four nights.

Hi thursdaysd, am late to this thread as we are currently house sitting in Spain. We sorry to miss you in SA as you have been so helpful in planning our trips elsewhere and it would have been good to meet up. Maybe next time we are in SA next year.

I haven,t been to all the places you are planning on but have a few observations.

If you want to cut costs it is possible to get a bus from Iguazu to Montevideo. You need to change at the border Concordia/Salto. Salto is very quiet but some visit for the nearby hot springs before the 5 hour bus ride to Montevideo . The overnight buse in Argentina are great and much cheaper than flying. Montevideo is good for a couple of days but much preferred Colonia.

It is easy enought to buy a ticket at the Buquebus office in Colonia for the trip to BA. I think you can also get the bus from Montevideo to Colonia although the bus was easy, quick and cheap.

Crossing from chile to Argentina , we went from Pucon to San Martin and loved both towns and would go back in a heartbeat. Bariloche we didn't like so much but we did visit at their equivalent of spring break so mayb we didn't see it in its best light. Have a great trip. When are you planning on going .

We used hostel world for booking most accommodation in SA and it worked well. Viajero B&B in Colonia was excellent but there are two. The best is the one closest to the sea. Marco Polo Inn in Puerto Iguazu was also good and cheap. Convenient location opposite the bus station for buses to the falls.

Andesmar is arguably the best bus company and Via Bariloche is also good. Pay the extra and go Ejecutivo or Full Cama. A bit like 1st class on a good airline.

Enjoy your trip. I am looking forward to reading your TR!

Hi crellston! I was hoping to see you here. I read your SA blog with interest. House sitting in Spain sounds good. I'm thinking of the north west of SA for next year.

I decided against the bus to Montevideo, but will be on the ground from El Calafate to Santiago. Alas, no trains.

Given when I get there I'll only have two days in Montevideo. Interesting that you preferred San Martin to Bariloche, my friends preferred Bariloche, but for the same reason - San Martin was over-crowded for them. I'm hoping I'll be early enough in the season to enjoy both.

Thanks for the bus and hostel tips! There should indeed be a TR this time, even if just my blog posts without the pix. Are you blogging Spain?

Hi thursdaysd,
Yes I, or more likely my wife, will be blogging Spain. Could you repost the link to your blog when you commence your travels as I would really like to follow along.

We to are planning on the NW of SA , probably starting in feb 2013, visiting mostly Ecuador with a view to moving out there but also some time maybe in Bolivia and Columbia. The NW of Argentina is also calling me back, as is Peru. "so many places, so little time!"

Where are you blogging now? There's nothing recent on travelpod. I'll post a link when I start the fodors TR, or you can just bookmark this:
http://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com/

Looks like we might well intersect next year. Funny that you're thinking of leaving the UK when I'm thinking of moving back!

I still need to book somewhere for Rio. I'm considering the Santa Teresa area. Sound good?

Sorry about the delay in replying about Hosteria Hainen's rate in El Calafate. In Oct. 2011 three of us shared a triple room with breakfast and tax for a total of $250 USD or appr. $84 USD per person for all three nights. We thought that was quite reasonable.

Thursdaysd, I have yet to start blogging yet as the web access here is appalling! Went to bookmark your blog and discovered I already had!!

It would be great to meet up if our paths do cross next year..

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2012/sep/19/hotels-puerto-natales-patagonia-chile

Bit out of your/my price-bracket but looks great! Are you going down here?

Hi gertie - sorry, I missed your post.

Am definitely planning to be in Puerto Natales, in order to take the boat to Puerto Montt, and take a peek at TdP. I will not be staying in one of those pricey places in the park, but a couple of the B&Bs in that piece are affordable.

Am currently trying to decide on somewhere to stay in BsAs (have booked for Rio, Igauzu and Uruguay). Am leaning to the Palermo area, or maybe San Telmo. Might try AirBnB.

San Telmo is a great area to wander around, particularly on a Sunday but I don't think - would want to stay there. Palermo IMO is a better option

In BsAs you might enjoy the Lola House. It's in a suburb, but a pleasant one with cafes and bars and restaurants and pastry shops etc. And the subway is only a block away. Las Violetas (finer than Cafe Tortoni in my opinion) is about half a mile along the street the hotel is on. The reviews on TA are accurate.

Thanks, someotherguy.

I did look at Lola House, but I wanted to be further in on my first visit. I booked a non-refundable rate at Duque in Palermo.

OK, but don't neglect to visit Las Violetas (it's by the Castro Barros subway stop): http://www.lasvioletas.com/eng/html/arquitectura/index.html

For the food or the architecture or both? Did you see my other post about Art Nouveau?

Incidentally, I was at Iguacu Falls last week. I used a taxi to visit the Brazilian side from my hotel in Foz do Iguacu, and I stayed at the Sheraton to visit the Argentine side. From what I could see, most people come on guided tours from hotels in either Foz or Puerto and are herded round in a mass. It's not a problem if you are there independently as you can just wait them out, but I don't think it'd be much fun to visit that way, even though it's undoubtedly convenient. So if you stay in Foz or Puerto and want to be independent, you either have to waste time with the regular buses, or pay for a taxi or private car.