My milestone birthday trip to Machu Picchu
Apr 23rd, 2011, 12:26 PM
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My milestone birthday trip to Machu Picchu
I am just returning from my 50th birthday trip to Machu Picchu, solo. It was a very memorable spectacular trip and the perfect way to celebrate the transition to this next decade of life. I am in the airport in Atlanta right now so I will write the details later. Here are the pictures to start off:
http://s814.photobucket.com/albums/z...lc/peru%20all/
http://s814.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/peru%202011/
My itinerary:
day 1- arrival in Lima at 11 pm, overnight in airport at LIma, 5 am flight to Cusco. Sacred Valley tour and overnight in Ollantaytambo.
day 2- Olly to AC via Perurail in am. Relax in AC for MP early the next day.
day 3- Machu Picchu, at last! depart on 4:50ish train to Cusco. Overnight Cusco at Unaytambo hotel
day 4- white water rafting class 4-5 rapids on Urubamba river, all day. Evening in cusco and overnight.
day 5- early am bus to Puno for lake titicaca. overnight in Puno.
day 7- early am start two day tour of Lake Titicaca. Visit Uros island and Amantina. Overnight in a Peruvian home on Amantina island.
day 8- leave Amantina for Taquile island. hike, lunch, and then return to Puno at 3:30 pm. Overnight bus from Puno to Cusco.
day 9- flight from Cusco to Lima, noon. stay at Hotel Grand Boliver in Lima downtown on Plaza Martin.
day 10- explore Lima, return home after midnight.
more to come......
http://s814.photobucket.com/albums/z...lc/peru%20all/
http://s814.photobucket.com/albums/z...c/peru%202011/
My itinerary:
day 1- arrival in Lima at 11 pm, overnight in airport at LIma, 5 am flight to Cusco. Sacred Valley tour and overnight in Ollantaytambo.
day 2- Olly to AC via Perurail in am. Relax in AC for MP early the next day.
day 3- Machu Picchu, at last! depart on 4:50ish train to Cusco. Overnight Cusco at Unaytambo hotel
day 4- white water rafting class 4-5 rapids on Urubamba river, all day. Evening in cusco and overnight.
day 5- early am bus to Puno for lake titicaca. overnight in Puno.
day 7- early am start two day tour of Lake Titicaca. Visit Uros island and Amantina. Overnight in a Peruvian home on Amantina island.
day 8- leave Amantina for Taquile island. hike, lunch, and then return to Puno at 3:30 pm. Overnight bus from Puno to Cusco.
day 9- flight from Cusco to Lima, noon. stay at Hotel Grand Boliver in Lima downtown on Plaza Martin.
day 10- explore Lima, return home after midnight.
more to come......
Apr 27th, 2011, 02:22 PM
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lol, cold! I'll get cracking on it..... just catching up at work and stuff.
btw, mlgb- I cannot recommend the Hotel Bolivar for only one reason.... the beds. So hard and uncomfortable; it was like sleeping on just the boxspring. Otherwise, it seems too good to be true.... right on Plaza Martin, walk to Plaza major, grand and lovely with an amazing stained glass rotunda, nice shower and bathroom, and that incredible rate of $28 (total!) for one night. I was fine with it but most people care about the comfort of the bed so I would hold off on recommending it for that reason only.
btw, mlgb- I cannot recommend the Hotel Bolivar for only one reason.... the beds. So hard and uncomfortable; it was like sleeping on just the boxspring. Otherwise, it seems too good to be true.... right on Plaza Martin, walk to Plaza major, grand and lovely with an amazing stained glass rotunda, nice shower and bathroom, and that incredible rate of $28 (total!) for one night. I was fine with it but most people care about the comfort of the bed so I would hold off on recommending it for that reason only.
Apr 27th, 2011, 03:11 PM
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My trip report will have an unconventional format. Rather than a detailed list of my adventures and events, I will present learning points and highlights; information that I hope will be useful to future travelers.
Chapter 1- What I would do differently versus what I did right:
- I LOVED traveling first class for this trip. It was completely worth the splurge. I was able to book roundtrip from San Diego to Lima for 110,000 miles which I had saved up for years. If I had had to pay for this, I would happily stay in modest/cheaper hotels in order to afford the air travel first class.
- I was very happy with all of the hotels I had prebooked:
*Ollantaytambo- El Albergue. This hotel is so convenient and yet very lovely and quaint. I paid $55/night for my single room which included breakfast the next day. The grounds are really gorgeous and once you pass through their doors, it is hard to believe you are AT the train station! I had no worries about missing my train as I was able to duck out and keep a check on things at the tracks.
*Cusco- Unaytambo. This was my favorite hotel on this trip. It was also quaint and lovely with an inner courtyard and beaufiful view of a nearby church. My bed here was THE most comfortable and divine on this trip. It was quite spacious and had a mini fridge even. Breakfast was included and it was terrific. I had two fresh fried eggs each morning and there was a selection of cereals and juices, etc. The hotel was centrally located. Rates were $75/night but I had booked it last year so I got last year's rate of $55/night.
*Lima- Hotel Grand Bolivar. This was a spectacular place and experience but with one very critical flaw; the bed was so hard and uncomfortable. It was like sleeping on a thin board. I will write to them and suggest they buy new mattresses and add $5/night to their rate; it will pay off within two months! With a good mattress, this place would have been really fantastic.
*Agua caliente- I stayed at the Rupawasi. I think my room was about $100 for the night but I bought their standard package which was $277 and included the room, a 3 course dinner with a glass of wine, boxed lunch, bus to and from Machu Picchu, entrance ticket to MP, and a 3 hour private guide.
- I would pack less. As light as I packed, it was more than I needed. There is no need for anything dressy; I would have eliminated those. I was very happy I had packed my bikini since I ended up going white water rafting. No need to pack caps/hats etc., there are so many available to buy there that you can keep as a souvenir.
- Double check your credit cards and ATM cards for the trip. Bring multiples just in case you lose one.
- make sure you charge your camera batteries the night before you go to Machu Picchu. In my excitement, I forgot this and just ran out after I reached the summit after climbing the mountain Machu Picchu.
- I would modify my itinerary to not subject myself to the overnight at Lima airport. I would take a later morning flight to Cusco and sleep in Lima in a decent bed the first night. There is NO place to sleep easily, for free, at the Lima airport.
- Do not book tours with cash only. I bought tours upon arrival at the Cusco airport with a group called Inkapal and it was a bad experience. They did not deliver on what I had purchased. If you can pay with credit card at least you have recourse later.
Chapter 1- What I would do differently versus what I did right:
- I LOVED traveling first class for this trip. It was completely worth the splurge. I was able to book roundtrip from San Diego to Lima for 110,000 miles which I had saved up for years. If I had had to pay for this, I would happily stay in modest/cheaper hotels in order to afford the air travel first class.
- I was very happy with all of the hotels I had prebooked:
*Ollantaytambo- El Albergue. This hotel is so convenient and yet very lovely and quaint. I paid $55/night for my single room which included breakfast the next day. The grounds are really gorgeous and once you pass through their doors, it is hard to believe you are AT the train station! I had no worries about missing my train as I was able to duck out and keep a check on things at the tracks.
*Cusco- Unaytambo. This was my favorite hotel on this trip. It was also quaint and lovely with an inner courtyard and beaufiful view of a nearby church. My bed here was THE most comfortable and divine on this trip. It was quite spacious and had a mini fridge even. Breakfast was included and it was terrific. I had two fresh fried eggs each morning and there was a selection of cereals and juices, etc. The hotel was centrally located. Rates were $75/night but I had booked it last year so I got last year's rate of $55/night.
*Lima- Hotel Grand Bolivar. This was a spectacular place and experience but with one very critical flaw; the bed was so hard and uncomfortable. It was like sleeping on a thin board. I will write to them and suggest they buy new mattresses and add $5/night to their rate; it will pay off within two months! With a good mattress, this place would have been really fantastic.
*Agua caliente- I stayed at the Rupawasi. I think my room was about $100 for the night but I bought their standard package which was $277 and included the room, a 3 course dinner with a glass of wine, boxed lunch, bus to and from Machu Picchu, entrance ticket to MP, and a 3 hour private guide.
- I would pack less. As light as I packed, it was more than I needed. There is no need for anything dressy; I would have eliminated those. I was very happy I had packed my bikini since I ended up going white water rafting. No need to pack caps/hats etc., there are so many available to buy there that you can keep as a souvenir.
- Double check your credit cards and ATM cards for the trip. Bring multiples just in case you lose one.
- make sure you charge your camera batteries the night before you go to Machu Picchu. In my excitement, I forgot this and just ran out after I reached the summit after climbing the mountain Machu Picchu.
- I would modify my itinerary to not subject myself to the overnight at Lima airport. I would take a later morning flight to Cusco and sleep in Lima in a decent bed the first night. There is NO place to sleep easily, for free, at the Lima airport.
- Do not book tours with cash only. I bought tours upon arrival at the Cusco airport with a group called Inkapal and it was a bad experience. They did not deliver on what I had purchased. If you can pay with credit card at least you have recourse later.
Apr 27th, 2011, 03:23 PM
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I forgot to include in my review of my hotel in Lima, I paid $28 total for my one night there at the Hotel Grand Bolivar. I would have happily paid $50/night for it with a nice mattress.
My best meal of the trip:
I took a taxi to what my research indicated was quite possibly the best restaurant in Lima, Astrid y Gaston. I arrived at 1 pm and was thrilled to be accommodated. They had a ten course tasting menu that would take 3 hours and the cost was only $50. It was my biggest splurge on this trip and possibly one of the best values. I felt like I was on the Food network as one of the judges with amazing chefs creating unspeakable fantasties with food. Even translated in English, the menu would be like a foreign language to me; it was the loftiest culinary experience I have ever had. I would highly recommend this as your splurge event in Lima if you are a foodie.
My second best food experience was having ceviche at the restaurant across from the Merced cathedral in Cusco. The view was spectacular and the dish was soooo tasty. I was lured there by a Justin Timberlake lookalike who was working the block promoting their menu.
My best meal of the trip:
I took a taxi to what my research indicated was quite possibly the best restaurant in Lima, Astrid y Gaston. I arrived at 1 pm and was thrilled to be accommodated. They had a ten course tasting menu that would take 3 hours and the cost was only $50. It was my biggest splurge on this trip and possibly one of the best values. I felt like I was on the Food network as one of the judges with amazing chefs creating unspeakable fantasties with food. Even translated in English, the menu would be like a foreign language to me; it was the loftiest culinary experience I have ever had. I would highly recommend this as your splurge event in Lima if you are a foodie.
My second best food experience was having ceviche at the restaurant across from the Merced cathedral in Cusco. The view was spectacular and the dish was soooo tasty. I was lured there by a Justin Timberlake lookalike who was working the block promoting their menu.
Apr 27th, 2011, 03:30 PM
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The highlights of my trip:
*Machu Picchu and climbing the mountain machu picchu which is about 30% taller/bigger than Huaynu Picchu which is what most people climb.
*doing class 4-5 rapids on the Urubamba river, all day excursion, topped off by ziplining (my first time ever).
*two day trip on Lake titicaca with an overnight homestay in a Peruvian home; horseback ride to the top of Isla Amantina. This was just a spectacular tour where it was hard to put my camera away!
Other enjoyable moments:
-the train ride from Olly to AC. I took the Expedition and it was spectacular. You do not need to spend any extra for the Vistadome. The scenery is just amazing with the rushing rapids of the river alongside the track and the dramatic backdrop of lush green mountains.
-meeting so many adventurous travelers, many of them also traveling solo. There was great camaraderie and I would keep running into the same people in different locales. I loved hearing of others' adventures and their various personal life stories.
*Machu Picchu and climbing the mountain machu picchu which is about 30% taller/bigger than Huaynu Picchu which is what most people climb.
*doing class 4-5 rapids on the Urubamba river, all day excursion, topped off by ziplining (my first time ever).
*two day trip on Lake titicaca with an overnight homestay in a Peruvian home; horseback ride to the top of Isla Amantina. This was just a spectacular tour where it was hard to put my camera away!
Other enjoyable moments:
-the train ride from Olly to AC. I took the Expedition and it was spectacular. You do not need to spend any extra for the Vistadome. The scenery is just amazing with the rushing rapids of the river alongside the track and the dramatic backdrop of lush green mountains.
-meeting so many adventurous travelers, many of them also traveling solo. There was great camaraderie and I would keep running into the same people in different locales. I loved hearing of others' adventures and their various personal life stories.
Apr 27th, 2011, 04:19 PM
#14
Great trip report ncounry. Appreciate the insight about whether to stay a night in AC. The Lima restaurant sounds like a must do. Thanks also for your advice about the home stay. It made me think about my definition of "roughing it". Since its probably staying in a 2 star hotel, I might pass.
When I saw your rafting pictures it looked too cold to be enjoyable and yet it was a highlight! You sure do know how to celebrate a milestone birthday!
When I saw your rafting pictures it looked too cold to be enjoyable and yet it was a highlight! You sure do know how to celebrate a milestone birthday!
Apr 27th, 2011, 05:38 PM
#16
Sounds great ncounty, I might still give the Bolivar a go, even with the hard bed and trade off for the tasting menu. I think we may have had the same room at El Albergue. Were you in the one in the back where you have to go out to the breezeway to then go to the bathroom?
Apr 27th, 2011, 08:46 PM
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Hi cold- the rafting trip was one of the tours I booked with the scoundrel at the airport that actually turned out great. It was not as he had described it but I loved it anyway. They were half an hour late picking me up, he said I could have my pick of difficulty level (I wanted class 3-4)..... they would subdivide into groups based on level of adventure/difficulty you wanted. This was NOT the case; everyone did the class 4-5 rapids. It was terrifying at first because the waters looked so rough, they had emergency rescue kayakers staffing the trip due to high risk of falling in, I wasn't even allowed to wear my glasses due to the risk, and the safety maneuvers reviewed seriously were very intimidating. However, it was an absolute thrill and I wouldn't want to do class 2 rapids again! lol
mlgb- yes, I WAS in that room as well! so charming and simple, eh?! Weren't the grounds just gorgeous? Everything was blooming including the tree with amazing umbrella tulip white flowers. I would certainly do the Bolivar and tasting menu combo again, lol.
mlgb- yes, I WAS in that room as well! so charming and simple, eh?! Weren't the grounds just gorgeous? Everything was blooming including the tree with amazing umbrella tulip white flowers. I would certainly do the Bolivar and tasting menu combo again, lol.
Apr 27th, 2011, 08:52 PM
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Other travel tips: If you choose to go to Lake Titicaca/Puno, I would personally fly next time. Flights are fairly inexpensive and I don't like spending 7-8 hours in a bus on the road. If you must do the bus, especially the overnight bus coming back from Puno to Cusco, do the Inka Suites; I think it is the only way to go. It looks like first class in an airplane with huge reclining seats. I got screwed into a standard local bus and it was a miserable sleepless night on the bumpiest ride I can recall stuffed/crammed into a space that was challenging even for my petite 5'3" frame.
Apr 29th, 2011, 07:59 AM
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Your trip looked fantastic Ncounty. I am also doing a very similar birthday to trip to Peru in 2 weeks as well. It would be great if you would be able to answer a few questions for me. I have heard the horror stories of the bus ride from Cusco to Ollantaytambo. Due to that part of the route being under construction Peru Rail is providing bus travel on this part of the route. Did you stay in Olly to avoid this issue? Your trip report gave me the idea to possibly do the same. On the train ride back did you disembark at Olly and take taxi back to Cusco or did you do the bus ride portion of the journey provided by Perurail? If so how was it? Thanks in advance.... 
