MarnieWDC

Side Trip to SAN ANTONIO de ARECO & Estancia EL Ombu

We made internet reservations for 2 nights at PARADORES DRAGHI (triple room) and a day trip to ESTANCIA EL OMBU. The process was easy, they were responsive and efficient. We planned to take the inter-city bus both ways.

We were in a Taxi on the way to the Omnibus Sta. when we got stuck in the 'social problem' -apparently a strike by dock workers? So, Resilience and Patience and Calming DH about the money, I discusssed the problem with the Taxi driver, who had been very decent, and he checked with his company and gave us a reasonable range of price to take us all the way. He used the meter and added the tolls – we added a tip and it was ~ $300 AR. We probably would have done better with a planned Remis, but we were en route, already in a nice Taxi with air-conditioning and a friendly driver.....so, off we went to S A de Areco.

The Pampas is the plains, and kind of flat, but very green with lovely trees; much of the area reminded us of Maryland's folliage with weeping willows and variegated greens, quite lovely, actually. The trip took just a bit over an hour.

We arrived at the Paradores, located right on a small, green, town Plaza. The front rooms of the Paradores are the Draghi Silver Museum, a small but very lovely and interesting display of the kinds of gaucho silverworks historically and currently being made in the workshops at the rear of the first floor. Continuing out through the rear of this building you are in a charming garden with an inviting swimming pool, fountains, and comfortable lawn chairs. There are also small tables so that the homemade, continental breakfast can be taken in the garden. We had a triple room which was a small suite – everything is on one level so there were cross windows and doors. We had quite a confortable room; good bed, good lighting, good bath and a small living/kitchen area (this came in handy as when they say the town closes up between 1 and 4 they really mean it! The crackers and drinks in the fridge were most welcome.

The folks at the Paradores Draghi were professional and exceptionally accomodating. For example, we travelled without our passports - the copies were sufficient. The 2 nights, cost $ 440 pesos. I would definitely recommend it .
[email protected]

The town has a small-town feel: the people were friendly and the mood gently lively (this was a Thursday and Friday). There is a good Gaucho Museum in Areco Parque (along Areco River, with local folks fishing) a few minutes walk from the Plaza. Very low cost and quite a nice museum…we enjoyed it. (Take and dab on mosquito repellant). We had dinner at the Almacen which was excellent! Slept the sleep of Malbec!

The next morning we were picked up, as pre-arranged with our reservation, by a car from the Estancia El Ombu - [email protected]. We are so glad we took the advice of fellow TA enthusiaasts….what a great day! We arrived (it’s about 15 minutes from town) at this working cattle/horse ranch in a beautiful setting, and were given a brief tour and history. Then we selected a shady, charming spot for delicious Empanadas and drinks and were left on our own to roam the ranch, watch the gauchos working with the cattle, lassoing and herding with the help of their horses and sheep dogs. We strolled and watched and took in the sights and smells and sounds – and the sounds were so great: a real cacaphony of birds singing, cows mooing, goats and sheep bleating with sheep dogs barking their orders to the recalcitrant cows and the gauchos alternately whistling and shouting (barking?) too. All this amid the smells of cut grass and …those earthy, farmy odors.

Horseback-riding and or horse-pulled buggy rides followed for those who were interested. Others took walks, swam in the pool, etc. There were a few couples from Buenos Aires, and only one other couple from the US. We had a really very good Assada lunch – each at our own table – under the Ombu tree. The wine was bottled for them and was only a fair Malbec, but the food and atmosphere and service were fabulous. Do we have to leave? ( I always wanted to be a cowgirl…are there cow older ladies?) What a change from the hustle and hubris of the city.

We did take the Chevallier bus back to BsAs. The Paradores staff made a reservation, and we walked to the tiny station. A search on TA will provided links for Long Distance Bus Reviews. The trip took about 1 ½ hours.

Ah, home again in Buenos Aires…that’s how it felt. Now it was Saturday and we made telephone reservations for the same evening for OPERA PAMPA. www.operapampa.com
We took a collectivo to Palermo and La Rural field on Sarmiento. We were welcomed into the barn like, mini-museum/restaurant with empanadas and wine where we took advantage of TA advice and read the libretto, in English, before the show.

We sat in outside, bleacher seats as it got dark and saw the terriffically entertaining show: the early history of Argentina in folkloric song, dance, and dramatization – just great! – and the equestrian feats and frolics were astounding. This was followed (if one opted for the show & dinner) by a pretty darn good salad bar and Assado with wine flowing liberally.
Sunday was drizzly but we walked to the feria at Recoleta (leaving soon – got to think about presents) and bought up some nice craft jewelry etc. as the vendors, trying to protect their goods from the drizzle – now a downpour- covered up. I was an efficient machine, according to DH, and managed to get some nice stuff. Happily for the recipients, we had already bought great belts and some silver in S A de Areco, and bags in San Telmo.

Monday was a sunny day; we went to Puerto Madero and walked around, had a drink by the Puente de la Mujer and walked to Plaza de Majo and then to the Café Tortonni for tickets to Tuesday’s Tango Show. We took a taxi to El Ateneo to learn the horario for their evening music (from 6:30 PM) and had coffee - shared a sweet..

Dinner Monday night at MELO. Tres Bon! We had an excellent, Norton Malbec DOC. We shared Rabas (perfectly and lightly fired calamari) and a salad. DH had delectable, home-made pasta with 4 cheese sauce and I (OK I admit it, I am boring!- I had risotto with funghi – again). But boring can be good, and this risotto was so much better than good!!!

Tuesday we went to the Recoleta Design Center which really makes one want to have a house here to decorate. Strolled to El Sanjuanino for a light lunch and home to relax before taking the collectivo to Plaza de Mayo for the Tango show downstairs in Café Tortonni . There we found small tables crowded into a cellar room (charming and not smokey) where a performance of story, song, dance, comedy and Tango where a really good, live 4-piece music group accompanied the players. I am sure we would have enjoyed the drama/comedy more if we had understood it, but we had fun and it was entertaining and good quality.

Wednesday and it is raining again – feels like tears for our near departure. Tonight we will go to hear music at El Ateneo Book Store – maybe a walk to Casa Museo Carlos Gardel first.

The last part of my trip report will come from WDC :- (

~Marnie

Scarlett

I really hate that you are already getting ready to leave.. I never heard of time going so fast ! well, maybe it did when we were in Paris but well... you know

I can't wait to go to the Estancia.. I think we will go with our son and his wife.. and I think you should re-think leaving so soon.

abrazos.. S

avrooster

So far, you are doing great, Marnie!

I'm very much looking forward to the next chapter of your trip report, covering your last few days in Argentina.

Rastaguytoday

Marnie,

Thank you for your trip report. This is a good introduction as we are heading for San Antonio de Areco after our week's stay in BsAs.

We are then staying 2 nights at El Ombu, and want to go back to San Antonio de Areco.

I have an email message to the concierge of my apartment, asking her to make reservations at Draghi.

However, at great personal expense and sacrifice, the magnificent Avrooster has said that he will come to my "rescue" if the concierge fails to deliver.

I also enjoyed your comments on Opera Pampa as we really want to go there for the experience.

avrooster

Thank you, dear Rastaguytoday!

I always stand ready, "at great personal expense and sacrifice" to "rescue" friendly posters who, for some reason or other, are totally unable to call or e-mail places where English is spoken.

That's why Rastaguytoday calls me "the magnificent Avrooster". LOL!!!

Just kidding, but....

MarnieWDC

It is true, Rastaguy, the folks at both Paradores Draghi and Estancia El Ombu spoke fine English and were quite resonsive on both E requests and telephone. And the fine tuning was smooth and functioned well. The Paradores also had bikes for guest use to ride around the townn. Lovely.

Scarlett:

I think you and your famiy will just love 2 nights in this Estancia. I envy youall.

Best, ~Marnie

mmb23

Thanks for the great report, I've been enjoying all the previous installments, too. Do you have more info/thoughts you'd want to share re: Opera Pampa? I'm interested, but it looks very touristy, maybe even slightly cheesy, and I'm not sure if it's worth the money/time. We'll be in BA for 6 nights, so we're trying to choose wisely among many options!

I will say that in the past, we have sometimes done touristy/cheesy things that we found educational and enjoyable. (Cafe Britt in San Jose, CR, and a flamenco show in Sevilla, Spain, come to mind.) So I welcome your thoughts!

yestravel

Another great chapter in your escapades in BA and now San Antonio de Areco -- what a life you're leading. Good description of the pampas, never thought of it in relation to MD.

Enjoy your last days -- at least u will return to WDC minus this last blast of winter.

Rastaguytoday

Marnie,

Avrooster and I have a side "bet" on the responsiveness of my concierge service for the apartment I'm renting.

Once I lose the bet, which I'm pretty sure I will, I will then email Draghi and get reservations.

The bet has something to do with my public humiliation and raising the level of his esteem, as I sort of mentioned in a prior post. LOL!

MarnieWDC

Thanks all.

mmb23: I hate 'tourist tourist' stuff and avoid 'brelly tours' and the rest like the plague. Last year we saw 2 Tango shows - one was part of our hotel package, and was actually quite good (no food)- Ventana - the other was mediocre with bad food - Quaranda. Both are hollywood production-type shows, and so are for tourists...but as you say, we are tourists, in the end.

The show at the the Borges Cultural Center was as authentic as you could get and Cafe Tortonni's show was good but there was a strong element of playing to the audience - cruise ship style. Opera Pampa was not touristy - well, yes it was for tourists, Argentine tourists, too, but it was unique and oh so Argentine that I would say - if you have the time, it was certainly worth the money. Skip the dinner if you want to save money. And think about a Milonga for authenticity, too.

DH and I are very glad we went to Opera Pampa. Enjoy whatever you decide to do with your days and nights here. I am already missing it - and thinking about next year...

~Marnie

Rastaguytoday

Marnie,

When did you post "The show at the the Borges Cultural Center was as authentic as you could get"?

I agree with you about the touristy stuff. My traveling companions and I are looking a real, decent show on tango. I have found a few milongas, but don't know the authenticity.

My mother does all the tour crap, same people every night, everyone goes to the same restaurant. I remember sitting by myself at a restaurant in Carcassonne, when I noticed that a group of Americas were all eating together. As they left the restaurant, the tour guide hung back a bit and got her kickback for sending the tourists to the restaurant.

Thank you, but no thank you.

avrooster

Your fame as a great researcher is faltering and my self esteem is sky-high, Rastaguytoday! LOL!!!

http://tinyurl.com/bqbcas

Rastaguytoday

Avrooster, I haven't risen, so the fall is gentle.

I am being devastated in public by the Porteno of Portenos, Avrooster! May I kiss the Godfather's hand some day.

There was a book written many many years ago by a burgeoning quasi hippie writer, Richard Farina, that was named "Been Down it Seems Like Up to Me." Maybe that applies to me.

As an aside, Richard Farina was married to Joan Baez's younger sister at the time when Joanie and Bob Dylan were a couple. It was an alpha male extravaganza. Unfortunately, Richard Farinia died on the day of the book's release, in a motorcycle accident, which was attributed to the 'excesses' of that time, but mostly to youth.

Marnie - I guess I need to be bi-postal in my searches....

Was Casa Saltshaker really THAT good? It seems like the reviews haven't been that good in general.

Why would you go to someone's house to experience a meal? If it is uncomfortable, I get my butt out of there ASAP. That's hard to do at someone's home, unless the meal is free (ha ha) and even then, I'd leave as soon as I could.

My personal take is that I vote with my pocketbook at a restaurant; if it is good, I return, if it is not good or so so, I don't return.

MarnieWDC

rastaguy: Another Dillon/Baez fan, I see.

Earlier I had written about the Borges Cultural Center experience: "Monday night we headed back (collectivo # 10) to Gallerias Pacifico to the Cultural Center. The performance of QUINTAESENCIA – Tango & Fusion at the BORGES CENTER was so great! The tickets were $50 pesos (~$US 15) for the very best seats – and I don’t believe there were any bad seats. This was not a ‘tourist, tourist’ show. Rather it was Tango mixed with modern dance in a 10 person ensemble. The music was not live – but the dansing and the theatrics were really fabulous. We will definely check out other espectaculos at the Borges Centro Cultural." http://www.ccborges.org.ar/

As to Casa Saltshaker: we had originally expected to be n Buenos Aires with French friends (we share a love of France, too, I think) and the idea of an in-house dinner with folks from around the world seemed fitting and easy. It was fine, but not a spectacular meal, and most of the 'guests' were from the US or Australia.

Best, ~Marnie

Rastaguytoday

Marnie,

Ol' Bobby Zimmerman is undoubtedly the best overall songwriter of the last 50-60 years. The only other folks who have been consistent writers have been Paul Simon and Randy Newman.

I've pulled up the Borges website. Looks pretty good. My wife is contemplating buying some Tango shoes. They probably will go well with the other 175 pairs she owns.

I've been a true Francophile since my first visit there in 1985. I Probably have been back 15+ times. When I was planning a holiday last August, the Euro was too high for my taste, which is why I decided on Argentina.

Good news! It looks like my concierge is actually going to do something about booking Draghi. However, the fat lady hasn't sung yet.

avrooster

Rastaguytoday, about your: "They probably will go well with the other 175 pairs she owns."

I feel it's great that you keep counting. With the wonderful shoes available here, your DW should easily top the 200 mark. LOL!!!

Rastaguytoday

Av,

It's not that I'm counting, but when we decided to get married 11 years ago, she had to move 600 miles north.

Guess who got to move her?

I even built an Imelda Marcos shoe closet for her. Her shoes are all designer, still in their original boxes, and most still have the original receipts for the purchases.

She has a dozen or two that have never been worn. At least most of the shoes she owns were bought before I met her.

avrooster

Well, after this trip she'll probably have 4 dozen that have never been worn. Great!

CarolSKov

Loved reading your report. How can I see the notes from your first and second weeks? I am seeing only the third and fourth.

We are planning a trip for 12/25-Jan. 5, our first trip to Buenos Aires and appreciate your advise.

Thanks you.

crzn1

SEE "Suggested, almost MANDATORY reading: Marnie's GREAT trip reports on TA" I brought it to to top so it should be easy to find