beazor

I will be going to Peru for the first time with a friend September 17 for 16 days. We are planning to fly the next am to Arequipa for 4 nights and go to Colca Canyon. Then bus to Puno for 3 nights. We want to do tours of the lake but no home stay. Friday am we hope to take the train to Cuzco. We'll be in this area for the next seven nights. We had really wanted to hike the Inca trail but think it maybe too much for us. The shorter hike, what they call the 2 day, doesn't spend a night on the trail camping and does not arrrive at sunrise. So my questions are..... keeping in mind we are looking for mid-range accomodations, 3 stars or so and do not like large hotels.
-Any suggestions on lodging in Arequipa? We'll be there Fri afternoon and leave Tuesday am. Is that enough time to see most places of interest and get an overnight in the Colca Canyon?
-Has anyone taken the bus from Arequipa to Puno? Anything we should know?
-Suggestions on places to stay in Puno, places to visit, an island to stay on that's not home stay?
-anyone taken the train from Puno to Cuzco? Is it worth the cost ($220 ea) or is the bus just as good?
-We have been thinking of staying the first couple of night in Olly and going to the ruins from there. Thoughts on that? Any ideas how we can get the Inca trail hike we would like? Can you do custon hikes and overnights on the trail? Seems arriving at MP at sunrise is quite an experience. How can we do it and not stay right at the ruins or do the 4 day hike? We are in our mid 50's and don't think we can do the 4 day hike at that alttitude.
The last nights in Cuzco we had wanted to stay at the Royal Inka 1 but have had no luck getting reservations. Suggestions for similar lodging? We love courtyards and gardens and want to stay in the old section.
-Friday we fly from Cuzco to Lima, our flight home leaves about 1:00 am Saturday. Should we take an early flight back to Lima and maybe go to Mira Flores (not sure what there is to do there but I have seen it mentioned often) or risk taking a latter flight and stay in Cuzco longer?

Anyway that's our plan, other than arrival and departure nothing is set yet. We thought going to Cuzco last would give us more time to acclimate to the altitude so we'll be in the best shape for the part of the trip that is most important. Any idea on how crowded it might be?

All comments and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

beazor

Thank you for responding, but this is not the trip we wish to take. We do not wish to tour Lima or go to Nazca.

yestravel

We stayed at Casa Arequipa and loved it. small B&B about a 10-15 minutes walk into town, Taxis are cheap if u don't care to walk.

Yes, I think you can go to Colca Canyon. U can spend a day and half exploring Arequipa and then do the 2 day 1 night trip to Colca Canyon. We had Casa Arequipa arrange the tour for us.

We stayed several days in Ollantaytambo and did our day trip to MP from there. Worked fine. We were unable to find a hike to MP outside the 4 day trek or 2 day'er, so we ended up not doing it.

I think most people reccomend returning to Lima the day b4 your flight. I know the day we left Cusco to fly to Lima all am flights b4 ours were cancelled. Our flight was delayed, but we did get there.

althom1122

We took the bus from Cusco to Puno and really enjoyed it. The scenery is spectacular and you have about 4 stops along the way for short-sightseeing excursions, plus lunch. It's much cheaper than the train and, I think, takes less time. We used InkaExpress.

If you want to see my pictures: http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/f754704379

My full trip report is at
http://www.fodors.com/community/sout...es-in-peru.cfm

beazor

Althom1122
Really enjoyed your trip report and pictures. Thank you for sharing them. Your trip is similar to what ours will be. We're 5o-something married ladies that have traveled together for years. I have a bit of trouble with altitude which is why we wanted to save MP for last. Felt by then I would surely be acclimated. Were there any side effects of the coca tea? I would not want to feel jittery.
We're still debating the bus vs train between Puno/Cuzco. I'm wondering now if the train makes stops as your bus did so you can look around.
Thanks again for your terrfic report and pics.

beazor

Yestravel-
What time of year were you there? Are the problems flying out year round? Caused by clouds/fog? We don't want to miss our flight home at midnight but also suspect we will not want to leave Cuzco any earlier than necessary. Neither of us really like big cities so not too interested in touring Lima.
We have checked the Peru site for LanPeru and have noticed the difference in pricing. We're thinking of taking our chances and buying the tickets on that site.
Think we've given up on the Inka Trail hikes and will be content with shorter hikes in the area. And the hike up HP.
Did you make reservations and arrangements before you left or did you look for lodging and such once you got to Peru?
We ususally wait till we get somewhere to look, but the older I get the more I like a little more security and the less I like schlepping the bags looking for a place. While mid-September won't be the hight of the busy season I wonder how crowded it will be.
Thnaks for the info.
Beazor

yestravel

We were there in April. It was apparently very foggy in Lima and the flts to Cusco were cancelled in the am, so there were no planes in Cusco until the Lima airport opened. I don't blame u for trying to avoid spending time in Lima. We didn't think it was anything great. Miraflores is pretty, but certainly nothing outstanding. It's a beautiful view on a hill, a nice park and there is this big outdoor shopping mall. Some good restaurants in the area for lunch.

While like u, would prefer to make plans as we move along, but since where we were was determined by the flights which we did book in advance, we made hotel reservations in advance. We used a guide, David Choque for part of our trip and he got the train and bus tickets for MP for us.

I have seen mention of an agency that gets discounted internal flights in Peru. U might try a search on this site and check it out.

I hated chewing the cocoa leaves, but found the tea okay, It didn't make me jittery. Also while Arequipa is not that high, portions of the trip to Colca Canyon are way up there.

althom1122

MP is actually lower than the Sacred Valley, which is lower than Cusco. You shouldn't have altitude problems at MP.
And regarding coca tea, I agree with yestravel, it didn't make us feel jittery or anything. And we thought it was really good.
I don't think the train does stop along the way, although I'm not sure. I remember a thread addressing that... I'll try searching for it.

mlgb

I felt okay other than out of breath (more than usual) on exertion at both Ollanta and MP. Just go slowly, at Cusco I had a headache every evening. I really enjoyed staying in Ollantaytambo. It was great to be able to walk to the ruins and the old Inka Town quadrant is fascinating. The CATCCO museum has a model of the town although the better explanations are in Spanish. There is a Fair Trade textile shop on the main drag, my purchase is now a fabulous pillow that sits on my living room sofa!

cmerrell

Hi guys,

I'm getting ready for a trip in May (next month!). I'm just wondering if those of you who tried the coca leaves and tea found that it did indeed help with the altitude?

I take meds for high blood pressure and my doctor does not want to prescribe Diamox to me. I figured I'd try the tea (somewhat sparingly due to the blood pressure issue...). I know that good hydration and avoidance of alcohol are also supposed to help with any altitude problems.

Beazor, your trip sounds fun! I'll be limiting my itinerary to Cusco-Sacred Valley-MP (we're 40-something ladies who have traveled together quite a bit). Hopefully, I'll have some additional good feedback to share with you next month when I return from my adventure.

mlgb

I thought it helped a little (more energy) but ask your doctor if it's okay for you.

yestravel

Really no way to compare since I dont know what it would have been like if I hadnt drank the tea.

Leslie_S

Agree with yestravel - since we did drink the tea I can't compare to not drinking it - but I do think it helped. We had it in the morning with breakfast and then we'd come back to our B&B and have some in the afternoon. Seemed like it would knock out a small headache I'd start to get in the early afternoon.
And I enjoyed it a lot - no jitters or any kind of bad effect. I'm not a tea drinker at all so I was pleasantly surprised I could drink it without plugging my nose to avoid the taste.

beazor

Thanks to everyone for your replies.
cmerrell-Look forward to hearing about your trip. Please be sure to report back. Do you have reservation for hotels?
Tours?

We have made reservations at Royal Inka 1 for our time in Cusco. Still looking for places to stay in Arequipa, Puno and Olly. I read somewhere you can take a tour from Arequipa-Colca Canyon then onto Puno. Anyone done that?

Thanks.

mlgb

Olly--El Albergue, Hotel Sauce or Pakaritampu.

ambage

I'm in the cmerrell party. We have reservations for one night at the airport Ramada in Lima (first night), Pakaritampu for 3 nights in Olly and 2 nights at Rumi Punku in Cusco.

mikatsek

we are going to Peru for a conference for 11 days (3 will be dedicated to the conference in Arequipa) and I asked the travel agent recommended by the conference people to make a plan. They offered plane tickets and tours everywhere and I dislike tours and I was wondering if we can take the train from Puno to Cusco. I found good comments about it an it is half price from the plane tickets but It looks like there is only the other way around, in other words the tours advertised with INKA EXPRESS are only from Cuzco to Puno and we want to go from Puno to Cuzco. Doesn't the bus go back?
Also, we were offered tours in Titicaka and in Matchu Pitchu. Is is better to have a tour guide and transportation arranged or it is OK to go on our own?. I hear that it is dangerous after dark in the big cities. We also do not speak Spanish... I also cannot tell if the price is right. The total price (all transportation and hotels and plane tickets was $1900 per person.

beazor

mikatsek
You can take the bus or train(only runs certain days) either way between Puno and Cusco. We were going to take the train but have decided on the bus. It is shorter time wise and makes several stops for sightseeing. And is a fraction of the cost. We are using only one tour for part of the trip because it's a little unusual. We're going from Arequipa to Colca Canyon to Puno. This tour for 3 nights lodging (1 night Colca Canyon, 2 nights Puno) tour of Colca Canyon private car to Puno and all day tour of the Lake is $169 per person. From all the posts I have read here and on another site you can arrange for your own tours and transportaion/hotels easily. We are doing so. With the cost of your tour I hope you are staying in all 5 star hotels and it includes roundtrip air to Peru. As to safety, from what I've read you're fine except at night when you should always have your hotel or the restaurant call you a taxi. Do not just grab one off the street. This info is from research not personal experience. Our trip is in September.

mikatsek

Thanks BEAZOR for the reply. This idea of a tour from Arequipa to Puno via Colca Canyon is very interesting. What agency arranged this tour? Can you give me information? sounds teerrific!. No, the original price did not include fare to Peru.The hight price includes 5* hotels and airfare inside Peru only. It seems that we can do better and I am going to work on reducing the cost without skimping on quality. . Was the bus trip from Puno to Cuzco worth the 9 hours? A flight with Lan is a bit more than twice the bus fare. With only a few days is it worth the time spent? In other words what is best to do: fly to Cuzco from Puno and going from Arequipa to Puno taking an extra day to go to Colca Canyon or go by plane from Arequipa to Puno and take the bus to Cuzco from Puno?

live42day

Hi THere. Regarding altitude. We were in Cuzco, Puno, Matchu two years ago. I have mild COPD so am out of breath anyhow. Did find the air very thin, but also did the short INKA trail hike and managaged, slowly, but managed. It was recommended to us to avoid alcohol for the first week which we did. We drank lots of water, lots of coca tea and they even have little Coca Candies which we sucked on, and they were really good. We did not get sick at all, little dizzy sometimes but took it slow. We found that it does not seem to matter how fit or young you are, actually saw some very fit young people very ill, but suspect they may have been partying the night before.
We took the bus to Puno and really enjoyed the sceanery. That being said we flew from there back to Cuzco as once was enough. We did a home stay on Lake Titicaca on one of the islands and was certainly a highlight of our trip. The altitude there was over 14,000 feet and I could only travel a few yards at a time, but noticed that the locals did the same thing. No one is moving too fast.
As I said, we did the short Inka Trail and spent two nights, one in Agua Calliente, the other we did a major splurge and spent at the Santuary hotel on the Matchu site. We had a guide for our first day at Matchu and it was VERY worthwhile. She was a wealth of information and you get so much more out of being there when you know what you are looking at. Other than that we did everything on our own and booked it all ourselves
In Cuzco we stayed at the Plaza de Armas hotel which is right on the plaza and was a nice clean hotel, not expensive and close to everything.
My spanish in minimal, but there is usually someone who speaks english around and charades works well...
I would love to return to Peru. You will enjoy it alot.