hopefulist

My husband and I are plotting our 1st visit to the Galapagos Islands, looking at mid-late April 2016. I've spent dozens of hours reading online including some budgetish options linked on various forums. We're retired so have some flexibility with the dates and length of time.

We love having access to a kitchen, shopping locally and preparing many of our own meals, finding hikes and beaches and day trips that pique our interest. We're not big into nightlife but love evening strolls and people watching and the occasional meal out, generally preferring modest local fare. The wildlife interests us - of course! - but so does the rhythm and feel of a place. I'm a diver; I'm not interested in a live-a-board but would like to dive at least a few days. My husband might want to go out fishing a day or 2; a favorite vacation plan is to volunteer on a local fishing boat and bring home fish for dinner.

Given those interests and cruise sticker shock we're looking to combine stays on 2 or maybe 3 islands with a short cruise. I'm really not willing to go bargain basement on the cruise or wait to book when we're there; maybe the next visit. ;-)

We're thinking of ending our Galapagos time with a 3 night Coral boat cruise, Itinerary A which focuses the 2 full days on Floreana and Española:

www.galapagosecuador.com/itineraryCoralA.html

If we split 10-12 days before the cruise between Santa Cruz and Isabela, does that seem like a balanced visit? Should we add San Cristobal or sub it for 1 of those?

Would love feedback on all of the above - timing, duration, islands for bases, fishing, diving, and cruise choice. Thanks in advance!

mlgb

I was very happy with Angelito Yacht (Cometa Travel). They don't have a hot tub or kayaks, but the guide (Maja), rooms (all with windows), itinerary, and food were better than the price would suggest.

I stayed at Lava House in Puerto Ayora, no pool but friendly and reasonable. I believe you can use their refrigerator, not sure re the stove. I don't think there is much reason to cook, with the good values offered on Kiosk Street for fresh fish at a $5 lunch. Groceries are costly.

Bear in mind that often the first & last day of cruises can be "wasted" so look closely at what you get that day. So a 4 day may not be a great value.

We had several people on our cruise who went to Kicker Rock independently.

Have you been on TA? There was a good report on what can be seen land-based.

hopefulist

Thanks for responding - I'll look into your suggestions. I've searched extensively (read: obsessively) and posted this on TA and Thorntree, too. There are some very nice AirBnB options in addition to hotels - lots to consider!

mlgb

Out of curiosity I checked the Airbnb offers in Puerto Ayora. By the time you add in the extra person charge and the cleaning fee, and the requirement to lock in a deposit, I would still be leaning toward Lava House.

In terms of ambience, I'd guess the Airbnb apartments are in some of the high rises sprouting around town, whereas Lava House is one store set in a garden (with fruit trees) and hammocks. Also their website does indicate "communal kitchen".

The owner, Isabel, speaks mostly Spanish but is a real sweetheart. The day I arrived, there was a strike blocking trucks and she came to pick me up at the dock, to be sure I made it into town. So I have a soft spot for Lava House.

Here is their website,

http://www.lavahousehostal.com/

hopefulist

The AirBnB places we're looking at are private homes with private bedroom/bathroom and a kitchen/living to share - they come to $56-58/nt for 2 all in. Here's an example, great reviews.
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/8461605...s=2&s=x2aXZHWw

I'll take a look at Lavahouse, too.

We're seriously considering the Angelito - thanks for the lead. We could splash out for an 8 day cruise instead of the 3 day cruise and just add in a few days on Santa Cruz before we fly out. Thanks!

mlgb

Not a bad choice from a quick look. Looks like it has a.c. too.

mlgb

Any questions on Angelito I will be happy to answer.

Some websites don't reflect the 2013 remodel, eg there are no bunk beds.

This site looks updated.
https://www.discovergalapagos.com/Angelito/index.htm

I booked directly with Cometa,easy to deal with.

hopefulist

Yes - I contacted them with some questions and received a quick, clear reply. We're looking at their Itinerary A which includes Genovesa, Bartholomew, and Española. Is that the 1 you did? Thanks for your help!

mlgb

Yes, I did A, the only weak days IMO are the last day when they need to get early to the airport, and the middle day which you spend on Santa Cruz. That day they take you to the Darwin Research Center, the highlands and a lava tunnel, but not the twin craters. The first day is very strong since you start at North Seymour.

We even saw the few penguins at Bartolome, our guide timed our visit to take the pangas by their nesting site as they were coming back in from feeding.

I do recommend seasick meds if you need them. The stretches to and from Genovesa and then going to Espanola were rough.

Food was a pleasant surprise.

Their snorkel equipment was fine. I had brought my own mask but didn't need to. The water was warm enough not to need wet suits. I think you probably won't, either.

Elizabeth_S

We spent a month in Puerto Ayora in 2006 - had a great time! Stayed in a really odd house rental -- at the time there were virtually no rentals on the market......just a few hotels and some dorms for researchers. Looks like there are a lot more options now.

The Lava House looks great - as do many of the in town places on Airbnb. I agree with mlgb - there are so many great options for food you don't need to cook for yourselves - and that actually is (was?) complicated. We ended up eating out quite happily (well, and the one grocery store had just burned down - that may have had an effect!).

Re Diving - we are divers but in the end were happy snorkeling. We met Mathias, the owner of the dive shop below (his house was next to the our rental) and he advised against diving - we are warm water divers who do it every couple of years. He advised that the water is cold, currents are strong, visibility can be poor and the best sights (for divers like us) were actually seen close to the surface. We had a great time snorkeling - didn't miss diving at all.

http://www.scubaiguana.com/index.html

Now that I look at his website I see he's listed his house -

http://www.scubaiguana.com/html/casa...est-house.html

At the time we met him he was living on Isabella (might still be) and commuting to PA. When we were there the BBC was renting his house as they were filming a fantastic multi part documentary. His English is perfect so would be very easy to deal with.

He was our guide on Isabella - that is a great place for 3 nights (or more). We went up to the caldera with him on horseback (really gentle riding) and then to a turtle conservatory and had some great meals in Villamil. Stayed at Casa Marita which was lovely.

http://www.galapagosisabela.com/

We flew over but you can take the fast boat from the PA harbour.

mlgb

You would probably be shocked at Puerto Ayora. It's a real tourist town now, tons of lodgings and galleries and fancier restaurants. Even has a few banks, airline offices, and ATMs.

The grocery store has been rebuilt...and the fish market is still there along the water front. Back off the main drag it's still pretty low key.

Elizabeth_S

A few banks!? ATMs? It was a major issue getting money then! (and part of the fun we had). My profile pic is me outside the bank! (the only bank!)

I just had a look at some listings - our sleepy little bar isn't so sleepy anymore (Tintorera).

Glad we were there then. It was a magical month. We say it was daft.

Elizabeth_S

This is a great book about the Angermeyers (that name is everywhere in PA).....fascinating history of the modern development of the area

http://www.amazon.com/My-Fathers-Isl.../dp/0954485106

hopefulist

This is all great info - thanks! We get a kick on our trips out of shopping in the local groceries, produce stands, and docks and preparing our own meals. Sometimes we hardly eat out at all, sometimes just use the kitchen for breakfast or as a place to store and pull together picnic lunches.

That's interesting about the diving. Do you have specific snorkeling sites to recommend, either around Puerto Ayora or easily accessed elsewhere? We won't consider a spendy day trip but maybe something close in addition to what we can access on our own. Land based places to visit? How about fishing? My husband wasn't planning to bring his own gear this trip but might enjoy a half day trip or volunteering on a local commercial boat for a day in exchange for dinner - that's been a blast a few times in other places.

Thanks again!

Elizabeth_S

The best place to snorkel right in PA is near the Darwin Centre I believe. Otherwise there are day trips to other snorkeling sites that aren't that pricey.

On Isabela Los Tuneles is a day trip excursion from Villamil - excellent snorkeling. And there is snorkeling in town you can do on your own.

http://divingthegalapagos.com/the-ga...bela-galapagos

Re land based trips - from PA a trip to the highlands is a must to see tortoises in the wild and the lava tubes!

Elizabeth_S

Re fishing - I'd send an email to Scuba Iguana and ask them.

Elizabeth_S

Fish market on main drag in PA - had to crawl over the pelicans and a sea lion (out of shot)! But it was fresh!

http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/p.../100_0326a.jpg

mlgb

In Santa Cruz, Tortuga Bay is beautiful, around the corner after you walk the long white sand beach (to the right) is a protected calm bay with mangroves. You might snorkel there, although I didn't drag my mask, so I don't know if it's good or not. There were lots of marine iguanas at the end of the beach, and you could see the exit holes from turtle nests along the edge of the larger beach. I believe kayak rentals are sometimes available. I've seen comments that you can see turtles there at the right time of year.

If you stay on the west side of SC, it isn't too far to walk the entire way. Or you can take a taxi to the beginning of the path, which I would do if it's very hot. I went on the weekend, and there was a water taxi that took people back to town ($10).

If it's hot, leave early, bring lots of water. Also watch out for wasps, one got me on the path to the beach.

I wouldn't go to Darwin Center a second time if your tour goes there.

I saw baby sharks in the main bay near PA..very close to shore...no swimming on that side for me. You will also see marine iguanas, Sally Lightfoot crabs and sea lions (the latter especially at the fish market).

I didn't see any produce stands, they may be in the highlands.

Elizabeth_S

There's a farmer's market on Saturdays in an open air covered stadium (near Lava Hostal) -- we lived off it due to the grocery store being closed. It looks like it still operates. And based on sailing community blogs that's still about it other than the main grocery story (by the dock) or the odd vegetable at a small grocerteria (probably bought from the grocery store).

http://www.sailblogs.com/member/atla...273_512650.jpg

I don't think the snorkeling is very good at Tortuga Beach due to the strong tide. But it's a gorgeous beach!

mlgb

Yes, the main Tortuga Beach is not a swimming beach. However, the little bay on the backside of Tortuga Beach is calm. I saw a few people snorkeling on the far side near the rocks, where the water taxi docks.