My husband and I are planning a trip to Brazil for August or September 2012. We'd love to do Rio, Salvador and the Pantanal. However, I'm having trouble deciding between two lodges in the Pantanal: Fazenda Barranco Alto and Embiara Lodge. We're looking for spectacular wildlife viewing opportunities, great guides, and good food.
I'd love to hear opinions from anyone with experience at either. And, of course, if there's anyone who's stayed at both, please let me know your thoughts!
Fazenda Barranco Alto or Embiara Lodge?
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We stayed at Embiara lodge for five nights two years ago. Our cottage was spacious and comfortable, the food was superb. Our guide Manuela was excellent. My impression is that more attention is paid to food and lodging at Embiara than at Barranco Alto. On the other hand, the owners of Barranco Alto are trained biologists, while the owner of Embiara is an enthusiastic wildlife observer. The properties are adjacent to one another. I don't think you can go wrong with either.
For more details see:
http://www.fodors.com/community/south-america/bruce-and-marija-go-to-brazil.cfm.
We stayed at Barranco Alto in July 2010 and had a great time. During the 5.5 hour drive in we saw hyacinth macaw, an armadillo, peccaries, jabirus and cowboys herding cattle. And this was while we were in transit!
While at Barranco Alto we saw tapir, giant and lesser anteater, giant and neo-tropical otters, bats, deer and whole host of birds. Photos are here, https://picasaweb.google.com/Treepol/SouthAmericaSouthernPantanalBarrancoAlto
Lucas And Marina are both biologists and Lucas worked on the BBC Wild South America series - some of the footage on the grass plains was shot at Barranco Alto. One of the best memories I have of our 4 night stay is the lively dinner conversation as there were students biologists undertaking fieldwork who joined us most meal times. Dr Lidia and Catherine were studying giant anteaters and a couple of others were looking into methods of seed dispersal. It was pleasant, interesting and stimulating to be in such enthusiastic company.
I also enjoyed staying on a working cattle ranch and seeing the horses saddled each day and the cowboys going about their work. The tack room was jam packed with gear and tools for the farm and quite a change of scene for a city girl.
Wildlife viewing is mostly done from a boat or an afternoon game drive, although horse rides and game walks are also offered. Lucas is a great guide, and Carol was very knowledgeable and her English was good. I don't know if she is working there this year.
The bedrooms in the guest lodge are well appointed and very comfortable with views over the fazenda. The food was tasty, plentiful and all very fresh.
I highly recommend Barranco Alto.
Whichever you choose, have a marvellous time,
Pol