Argentina here we come!
Nov 17th, 2010, 07:05 AM
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Argentina here we come!
Woohoo! We're coming to Buenos Aires in February!
I want to thank all of you here who have helped me without even knowing it in planning our trip: Scarlett, avrooster, drdawggy, MarnieWDC, and those of you who have written informative trip reports.
There really is a wealth of information here in the South American forum- I'm a long-time Fodorite, but more often lurking on the European forum. DH and I go to France frequently, but were in the mood for a warmer destination this February, and DH has never been to South America.
So anyway, THANK YOU !
You've been lots of help. We have our flights, a beautiful apartment booked in Recoleta for 8 nights, a list of restaurants long enough for more meals than we'll be able to eat, and an overnight trip to Iguazu all lined up.
I will undoubtably be back asking questions, but just wanted to let you know that all the information on this forum is much appreciated!
I want to thank all of you here who have helped me without even knowing it in planning our trip: Scarlett, avrooster, drdawggy, MarnieWDC, and those of you who have written informative trip reports.
There really is a wealth of information here in the South American forum- I'm a long-time Fodorite, but more often lurking on the European forum. DH and I go to France frequently, but were in the mood for a warmer destination this February, and DH has never been to South America.
So anyway, THANK YOU !
You've been lots of help. We have our flights, a beautiful apartment booked in Recoleta for 8 nights, a list of restaurants long enough for more meals than we'll be able to eat, and an overnight trip to Iguazu all lined up.I will undoubtably be back asking questions, but just wanted to let you know that all the information on this forum is much appreciated!
Nov 17th, 2010, 02:31 PM
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Hi avrooster, Marnie, and Scarlett!
(Scarlett, D already posted on my Facebook page that you told her I was coming to BsAs. News travels fast!
)
Well, I guess I do have a couple of questions!
A little background: I've been to Buenos Aires once before, years ago. My daughter and son-in-law (then boy-friend) were spending a year abroad studying in Buenos Aires, and the whole family came down to visit.
We rented a big apartment in Palermo and had a wonderful time- 2 adults and 5 high-school and college-aged kids!
This trip will obviously be very different, with just DH and me. (the restaurant bills will be lower for sure!)
I wish I'd taken notes of restaurants we liked, shopping, etc., because unfortunately I don't remember the names of any of the places we went.
The apartment we're renting this time is in Recoleta overlooking the cemetery (kind of eerie as far as views go, maybe, but I think it's a great location).
As far as local transportation, I remember taking the colectivos a lot, but not so much the Subte, and it looks like that will be the most convenient from our apartment this time, too, will it not? Is the Guia T the guide we need for the buses? and is it worth buying one for a one-week stay? I seem to remember looking locations up on a grid to figure the route...
Of course we'll walk tons, too.
We don't have a set itinerary at all, but plan to see the parks, the different neighborhoods, a tango show, the flea market in San Telmo...all the usual touristy things.
DH <u>loves</u> the wines (esp. Malbec) from Argentina, so any suggestions of good ones to look for are welcome.
Also, I have fond memories of drinking clericot on a hot afternoon. Is that something that we'll still be able to find? (For those who haven't heard of it, it's like Sangria made with white wine, or my daughter says "white wine with fruit cocktail in it." So good!)
The biggest problem I think we'll have with restaurants is narrowing down all the terrific choices. We're thinking about La Cabrera (I know it's touristy, but I really want to try it) Amici Miei, Oviedo, Juana M, Sarkis (It has family significance for us), El Sanjuanino, Rodi Bar, among others, for a mix of higher-end and more casual.
Any opinions about La Vineria de Gualterio Boliva ? We were never able to get in to El Bulli, and I hear the chef trained there and it sounds very interesting.
Can't wait to have some of the wonderful ice cream, wine, medialunas, dulce de leche...
My daughters are already making lists of things that they miss that I need to bring back for them...
Let's see: I've ordered a guide book and some maps, I'm brushing up on my Spanish; I used to speak it pretty well, but I'm SO rusty.
Anything else I need to think about?
Thanks again for your help,
Marcy
(Scarlett, D already posted on my Facebook page that you told her I was coming to BsAs. News travels fast!
)Well, I guess I do have a couple of questions!
A little background: I've been to Buenos Aires once before, years ago. My daughter and son-in-law (then boy-friend) were spending a year abroad studying in Buenos Aires, and the whole family came down to visit.
We rented a big apartment in Palermo and had a wonderful time- 2 adults and 5 high-school and college-aged kids!
This trip will obviously be very different, with just DH and me. (the restaurant bills will be lower for sure!)
I wish I'd taken notes of restaurants we liked, shopping, etc., because unfortunately I don't remember the names of any of the places we went.
The apartment we're renting this time is in Recoleta overlooking the cemetery (kind of eerie as far as views go, maybe, but I think it's a great location).
As far as local transportation, I remember taking the colectivos a lot, but not so much the Subte, and it looks like that will be the most convenient from our apartment this time, too, will it not? Is the Guia T the guide we need for the buses? and is it worth buying one for a one-week stay? I seem to remember looking locations up on a grid to figure the route...
Of course we'll walk tons, too.
We don't have a set itinerary at all, but plan to see the parks, the different neighborhoods, a tango show, the flea market in San Telmo...all the usual touristy things.
DH <u>loves</u> the wines (esp. Malbec) from Argentina, so any suggestions of good ones to look for are welcome.
Also, I have fond memories of drinking clericot on a hot afternoon. Is that something that we'll still be able to find? (For those who haven't heard of it, it's like Sangria made with white wine, or my daughter says "white wine with fruit cocktail in it." So good!)
The biggest problem I think we'll have with restaurants is narrowing down all the terrific choices. We're thinking about La Cabrera (I know it's touristy, but I really want to try it) Amici Miei, Oviedo, Juana M, Sarkis (It has family significance for us), El Sanjuanino, Rodi Bar, among others, for a mix of higher-end and more casual.
Any opinions about La Vineria de Gualterio Boliva ? We were never able to get in to El Bulli, and I hear the chef trained there and it sounds very interesting.
Can't wait to have some of the wonderful ice cream, wine, medialunas, dulce de leche...
My daughters are already making lists of things that they miss that I need to bring back for them...
Let's see: I've ordered a guide book and some maps, I'm brushing up on my Spanish; I used to speak it pretty well, but I'm SO rusty.
Anything else I need to think about?
Thanks again for your help,
Marcy
Nov 17th, 2010, 06:10 PM
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Marcy, you will be in my neighborhood : )
No, there is no Subte close to this neighborhood. ( we never take buses so can't help you there at all. )
For a nice wine tasting experience, look into Terroir .. http://www.terroir.com.ar/news/e_six_pack.htm
Amici Miei is a big favorite of ours.. love Oviedo and Juana M .. El Sanjuanino is nice for an empanada lunch .. Rodi Bar is good anytime, Look into Sirop, Olla de Felix , in Palermo there is a great place with no menu, Guidos Bar .. you will love it .. on Republic del India (facing the zoo)..
more later, I can email too ... chau !
No, there is no Subte close to this neighborhood. ( we never take buses so can't help you there at all. )
For a nice wine tasting experience, look into Terroir .. http://www.terroir.com.ar/news/e_six_pack.htm
Amici Miei is a big favorite of ours.. love Oviedo and Juana M .. El Sanjuanino is nice for an empanada lunch .. Rodi Bar is good anytime, Look into Sirop, Olla de Felix , in Palermo there is a great place with no menu, Guidos Bar .. you will love it .. on Republic del India (facing the zoo)..
more later, I can email too ... chau !
Nov 17th, 2010, 07:37 PM
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Thanks for the tips, Scarlett!
Terroir sounds like a good possibility...
The restaurants you mentioned were all on my list except La Olla de Felix, and I've added it. So many restaurants that sound good! Maybe we can have 4 meals a day instead of three, LOL.
According to Google Maps it's a 15 minute walk from our apartment to the Subte, so not too convenient.
I like taking buses as long as they're not too crowded- I like being able to see where I'm going, unlike the subway. We take the bus a lot in Paris, too.
But I suppose if we're going to be having all that good food we'd better be walking everywhere!
I'm sure I'll be back with more questions. Thanks!
Terroir sounds like a good possibility...
The restaurants you mentioned were all on my list except La Olla de Felix, and I've added it. So many restaurants that sound good! Maybe we can have 4 meals a day instead of three, LOL.
According to Google Maps it's a 15 minute walk from our apartment to the Subte, so not too convenient.
I like taking buses as long as they're not too crowded- I like being able to see where I'm going, unlike the subway. We take the bus a lot in Paris, too.
But I suppose if we're going to be having all that good food we'd better be walking everywhere!
I'm sure I'll be back with more questions. Thanks!
Nov 18th, 2010, 01:12 AM
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Let's see what I can do:
You obviously DO know it will be quite warm.
I avoid the subway like the plague during our summer, but that's just me.
"Clericó" should be available in any decent restaurant.
I assume you know all about being careful with your belongings, avoiding the Global Exchange booths in our airports, boarding only prepaid transportation when you are driven from the airport, ideally only CALLING for radio taxis and paying for them with bills no larger than 20 pesos, carrying only a copy of your passport and that kind of thing we are always warning about in this forum.
We now have a tour of the town hop-on/hop-off bus which was not available during your previous visit.
Anyway, you seem to be on the right track to enjoy a wonderful holiday in BA. Just keep the questions coming!
You obviously DO know it will be quite warm.
I avoid the subway like the plague during our summer, but that's just me.
"Clericó" should be available in any decent restaurant.
I assume you know all about being careful with your belongings, avoiding the Global Exchange booths in our airports, boarding only prepaid transportation when you are driven from the airport, ideally only CALLING for radio taxis and paying for them with bills no larger than 20 pesos, carrying only a copy of your passport and that kind of thing we are always warning about in this forum.
We now have a tour of the town hop-on/hop-off bus which was not available during your previous visit.
Anyway, you seem to be on the right track to enjoy a wonderful holiday in BA. Just keep the questions coming!
Nov 18th, 2010, 05:04 AM
#10
Marcy, we have enjoyed taking the Collectivos. The Guia T was not difficult to use after trying it out, but with only 8 days, you might want to check out some bus-lines from your home and be prepared to follow them when you arrive.
Here are some Websites we found useful:
Look at www.comoviajo.com for bus connections
From Los Colectivos website www.loscolectivos.com.ar
"Colectivos can be identified by the route number and main destination displayed above the windshield. Having boarded at the front, coins should be inserted in the automatic coin machine, which will print a ticket and give change. To exit, there is a buzzer by the back door, which should be pushed before the stop required. Visitors should watch their belongings in the crowds and be courteous to passengers looking more in need of a seat than themselves.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Travel-g3...nos.Aires.html
Animated Bus Guide = http://www.animap.com.ar/
It seems that most Collectivos still require coins - so save them for bus trips. It's lots nicer than the Subte in summer, as avrooster says, and with the Taxi hikes, one can feel virtuous and adventurous...walking and busing !
You have a great list planned...enjoy yourselves.
~Marnie
Here are some Websites we found useful:
Look at www.comoviajo.com for bus connections
From Los Colectivos website www.loscolectivos.com.ar
"Colectivos can be identified by the route number and main destination displayed above the windshield. Having boarded at the front, coins should be inserted in the automatic coin machine, which will print a ticket and give change. To exit, there is a buzzer by the back door, which should be pushed before the stop required. Visitors should watch their belongings in the crowds and be courteous to passengers looking more in need of a seat than themselves.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Travel-g3...nos.Aires.html
Animated Bus Guide = http://www.animap.com.ar/
It seems that most Collectivos still require coins - so save them for bus trips. It's lots nicer than the Subte in summer, as avrooster says, and with the Taxi hikes, one can feel virtuous and adventurous...walking and busing !
You have a great list planned...enjoy yourselves.
~Marnie
Nov 18th, 2010, 05:38 AM
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I never take buses anywhere ( phobic) and I have taken the Subte once .. we just walk everywhere or take a taxi. It is easier and well.
If I had a car, I doubt I would use it here in the city, so a taxi is the next best thing.
Do you have a car for your arrival ? to bring you into town ?
We used VIP, I have a private driver now that I will email you if you wish and there is Fred at Silverstar Car ..
Olla de Felix will charm you, and Felix speaks several languages so you can keep your French from getting rusty ..
Do you have lunch or brunch at the Evita Museum Cafe? We walk over there some afternoons with Pup and have a late lunch... perfecto .
Open Bus Tours
http://www.buenosairesbus.com/en/service.htm
Some family members visited this past year and this was one of their days .. it can be as long as you wish, hop off or on as you wish. It covers the city pretty well, giving you an overview.. and seeing some neighborhoods that you might not want to see that much more of ( Boca) ..and it is safe.
Having been in quite a few big cities, I know you know how to hail a taxi on the street.
Same here, just be sure it is a Radio Taxi with the light box on the roof.
They are getting ready to increase taxi prices at night but they are still quite affordable.
I read that they want to make them get a/c in all taxis, this is a good idea !
Happily, except for some taxis and buses, most everything else is Air Conditioned here, you will enjoy the evenings, it cools down beautifully and the streets can be as busy as any midday with couples and whole families out after 9 and 10 pm .. Summer is great here.
Bring OFF .. really .. and Sunblock. I tan just walking down the street, you have to be vigilant, the air is so clean, the sun is so close
That's all for now ..
If I had a car, I doubt I would use it here in the city, so a taxi is the next best thing.
Do you have a car for your arrival ? to bring you into town ?
We used VIP, I have a private driver now that I will email you if you wish and there is Fred at Silverstar Car ..
Olla de Felix will charm you, and Felix speaks several languages so you can keep your French from getting rusty ..
Do you have lunch or brunch at the Evita Museum Cafe? We walk over there some afternoons with Pup and have a late lunch... perfecto .
Open Bus Tours
http://www.buenosairesbus.com/en/service.htm
Some family members visited this past year and this was one of their days .. it can be as long as you wish, hop off or on as you wish. It covers the city pretty well, giving you an overview.. and seeing some neighborhoods that you might not want to see that much more of ( Boca) ..and it is safe.
Having been in quite a few big cities, I know you know how to hail a taxi on the street.
Same here, just be sure it is a Radio Taxi with the light box on the roof.
They are getting ready to increase taxi prices at night but they are still quite affordable.
I read that they want to make them get a/c in all taxis, this is a good idea !
Happily, except for some taxis and buses, most everything else is Air Conditioned here, you will enjoy the evenings, it cools down beautifully and the streets can be as busy as any midday with couples and whole families out after 9 and 10 pm .. Summer is great here.
Bring OFF .. really .. and Sunblock. I tan just walking down the street, you have to be vigilant, the air is so clean, the sun is so close
That's all for now ..
Nov 18th, 2010, 08:08 AM
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As I have said over and over and over again, local radio taxis are no better or safer than the other cabs, unless you CALL for them, because that way, if there is a problem, the radio taxi company can find out who drove you.
That said, a very high percentage of our cabbies are nice, hard-working fellows, but there are always some bad apples in any large barrel.
Have a great time in our town.
That said, a very high percentage of our cabbies are nice, hard-working fellows, but there are always some bad apples in any large barrel.
Have a great time in our town.
Nov 18th, 2010, 09:12 AM
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I guess we are just lucky .. not having a car and living In the city , we do take taxis often .
In the past almost 4 years, we have not come across any of these bad apples.
IF you feel insecure with your Spanish.. write down the names of the Cross Streets .. works fine.. or if you want to have a good laugh with your driver, pronounce things the way I do - never fails to get a laugh ..
When you take a Radio Taxi, you can ask for a card and call them, if it makes you feel better.
In the past almost 4 years, we have not come across any of these bad apples.
IF you feel insecure with your Spanish.. write down the names of the Cross Streets .. works fine.. or if you want to have a good laugh with your driver, pronounce things the way I do - never fails to get a laugh ..
When you take a Radio Taxi, you can ask for a card and call them, if it makes you feel better.
Nov 19th, 2010, 08:37 AM
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Sorry to not get back sooner to respond to your suggestions, avrooster, Marnie, and Scarlett- I hate it when work gets in the way of my trip planning! ;-)
avrooster- Yes, I'm aware that it will be warm- I like hot weather, but I'm crossing my fingers that it won't be sweltering hot. I'm looking forward some clericó (clericot?- I've seen it written both ways) or ice cream on a hot afternoon.
Definitely planning to take the Hop-on, Hop-off bus tour.
We're fine as far as all the general travel advice- we're veteran travelers, just not so often to South America.
I'm not too paranoid about taxis- has anybody had problems worse than getting overcharged a few pesos? I imagine it helps to speak decent Spanish and to have a sense of the layout of the city.
I hope I can get my Spanish back up to snuff after mostly speaking French lately. Right now I'm finding that I'm speaking some strange new language "Espançais" that's a combination of French and Spanish.
So I'm practicing on my grandchildren, who are studying Spanish in school- they're patient with me!
Marnie, those are super-helpful links and tips for using the buses! Thanks to your links I'll have a few destinations planned out before we go. I'm realizing how much easier <b>everything </b>is to plan with so much information available online.
Scarlett- I'd love to have the name of your driver if you're willing to share! If you don't have my gmail address Deirdre will give it to you.
Insect repellant- Check!
Sunscreen- Check!
Save coins for the buses- Check!
I can't wait! You all are SO helpful- muchisimas gracias!
Marcy
avrooster- Yes, I'm aware that it will be warm- I like hot weather, but I'm crossing my fingers that it won't be sweltering hot. I'm looking forward some clericó (clericot?- I've seen it written both ways) or ice cream on a hot afternoon.
Definitely planning to take the Hop-on, Hop-off bus tour.
We're fine as far as all the general travel advice- we're veteran travelers, just not so often to South America.
I'm not too paranoid about taxis- has anybody had problems worse than getting overcharged a few pesos? I imagine it helps to speak decent Spanish and to have a sense of the layout of the city.
I hope I can get my Spanish back up to snuff after mostly speaking French lately. Right now I'm finding that I'm speaking some strange new language "Espançais" that's a combination of French and Spanish.
So I'm practicing on my grandchildren, who are studying Spanish in school- they're patient with me!Marnie, those are super-helpful links and tips for using the buses! Thanks to your links I'll have a few destinations planned out before we go. I'm realizing how much easier <b>everything </b>is to plan with so much information available online.
Scarlett- I'd love to have the name of your driver if you're willing to share! If you don't have my gmail address Deirdre will give it to you.
Insect repellant- Check!
Sunscreen- Check!
Save coins for the buses- Check!
I can't wait! You all are SO helpful- muchisimas gracias!
Marcy
Nov 19th, 2010, 09:24 AM
#16
Re: COLLECTIVOS - Marcy & Dona:
DH reminds me that we have a newer and even better site for guidance in using the best route on collectivos (or even walking or biking !) It is: http://www.mapa.buenosaires.gov.ar/
Pays to be married to a sailor ! Best,
~Marnie
DH reminds me that we have a newer and even better site for guidance in using the best route on collectivos (or even walking or biking !) It is: http://www.mapa.buenosaires.gov.ar/
Pays to be married to a sailor ! Best,
~Marnie
Nov 19th, 2010, 12:56 PM
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Not only have we had no bad experiences with taxis but we have never had one overcharge us .. I have had occasions when Pup came along in the taxi, even there, only one driver ever refused and he was nice about it. Pup is big ! I totally understand.
Todays taxi driver to the cinema was talking about taxi drivers in NYC not being able to speak English lol.
I will email you with our drivers number/email.
I understand Espançais ! there are a few words that I use the wrong version .. they are so sweet here, most of the time they smile and pretend they know what you are talking about.
LOL Marnie ( pays to be married to a sailor )
Todays taxi driver to the cinema was talking about taxi drivers in NYC not being able to speak English lol.
I will email you with our drivers number/email.
I understand Espançais ! there are a few words that I use the wrong version .. they are so sweet here, most of the time they smile and pretend they know what you are talking about.
LOL Marnie ( pays to be married to a sailor )
Nov 20th, 2010, 01:44 PM
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Scarlett,
Thanks for the driver's contact info. (you've got mail)
I'm encouraged to hear that about the taxis, in general I plan to use reasonable caution but not be paranoid.
I remember having some very interesting conversations with taxi drivers, particularly about current affairs- we were there during the days of Carlos Menem, if that dates us... They were very patient with my attempts at castellano.
Avrooster - we'll be there the end of February.
Thanks for the driver's contact info. (you've got mail)
I'm encouraged to hear that about the taxis, in general I plan to use reasonable caution but not be paranoid.
I remember having some very interesting conversations with taxi drivers, particularly about current affairs- we were there during the days of Carlos Menem, if that dates us... They were very patient with my attempts at castellano.
Avrooster - we'll be there the end of February.
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