Just realized I didn't finish a sentence there - was trying to say After reading reviews, I was interested in staying at Finca Maresia in Drake Bay if we stayed there but I emailed them 6 days ago and haven't yet heard back.

Would it make any sense to stay at 3 places in the amount of time we have? Drake Bay, Then either Iguana Lodge or Encanta La Vida, and then Puerto Jiminez?

Getting to La Sirena (which is in heart of Corcovado NP and where it is most likely to sse the baird tapir) is complicated. Since hiking is out of equation, you might take the boat from Drake Bay and air transfer by http://www.alfaromeoair.com/ from Puerto Jimenez. With boat rough sea is your enemy. With air only price.
If going to Drake Bay then fly Nature Air from SJO to DB first, and fly from DB to Puerto Jimenez (there are no flights from PJ to DB). You can stay first at BdC and then at surfing spot. There are nice easy breaks around Pan Dulce area where a home can be rented (just don't know if also for shorter period). Or your husband can drive a car to Cabo Matapalo beach (where best break in Corcovado is (also near is Encanta La Vida). So You will need a car here. Or rent a car in Puerto Jimenez and drive to Uvita/Dominical area where there are more chances for surfing. Second itinerary could be flying to Puerto Jimenez and staying several days at BdC and the transfering to Uvita. Your DH could surf while you can take tours either to Corcovado, Cano Island or inland. Very nice place to check is Tiki Villas Lodge http://www.tikivillas.com/ .

We stayed at Finca Maresia and used it as our base to boat into Sirena for a two-night stay.

And, yes we did see a tapir. And were within 25 feet of a puma (we didn't see it--only smelled it--but another group came after us and took a picture of it--with their iPhone).

I would email Finca Maresia again--the owners run the place themselves, and might not have seen the message. It's a lovely place and a fantastic bargain.

I wouldn't take Encanta la Vida out of consideration. We stayed there last year and really enjoyed it. If you do choose to stay there, I would strongly recommend the upper Deluxe Cabina. The two Deluxe Cabinas are the largest rooms on the property (we looked at all the rooms one day when we were the only guests there). I like the upper one because of the two decks and the views over the property. The wildlife viewing in the area is really good, and you would be very close to two possible surfing beaches (and a short walk to Matapalo). The food at Encanta was also excellent. Sure it's hot, but it's hot just about everywhere in the area. I was only uncomfortable one night out of four, but of course that depends on the weather.

I haven't done the Corcovado hike, but there's so much to see in the area that I really haven't felt the need to do it. From your description of what you're looking for (relaxation, easy hikes, surfing), I would either do a split stay at BdC/Encanta la Vida, or take xelas' advice and do a split between a BdC and someplace in Uvita. Keep in mind you would need a rental car in Uvita, since that area is spread out (but also beautiful). Have fun planning! The area is very special and you really can't go wrong.

One other thing -- Iguana Lodge is also a great choice! The beach directly in front of it is stunning and perfect for swimming and boogie boarding (but I don't think so much for surfing). The food there is also great. There's not as much wildlife immediately around Iguana Lodge due to it's location, but the beach is spectacular. It doesn't sound like it's what you're after for this trip, but it's a fun and interesting place.

At Encanta, the upper Deluxe was the one I stayed in. Really could use an update. The netting had holes in it and was so old & warped it would not close. The 2 decks were nice but seemed like every time I tried to go out there to relax, several of the gardeners would gather right below and discuss for a half hour cutting down a branch/tree. Then take the chainsaw to it. Got to be quite annoying. Maybe it was time of the year with so few guests.

But anyway, if you're going to stay down at Matapalo, I would stay much closer to the surfing beaches. I think honestly you'd be good with a split between BdC and Iguana Lodge, especially if surfing may only be 1-2 days.

Thanks for the info, everyone. A few more questions:

Oops, sorry that got sent before I actually got to ask the questions.

1. Tully, I thought that Encanta was about as close as you could get to the surfing beaches - if it isn't, what is closer? I'm thinking of Pan Dulce and Backwash - I know there's also Pavones but I don't want to stay there.

2. I thought I've seen some people say they stayed at Iguana a few days as a base of operations to do tours before going to BdC where it would be an extra hour or so each way and extra expense to get to tours. If so, then it might work for us, RKprov, and the kids might enjoy the swimming beach in front. But how far is it from there for husband to get to Pan Dulce and Backwash? Does it make more sense to just stay in Drake Bay first - is that closer to taking tours to Cano Island and entering Corcovado (keeping in mind we'd boat or fly in)?

3. xelas made it sound like the only way to get from Drake Bay to Puerto Jiminez (i.e. to transfer to BdC) would be to fly - is that right? That seems like a pain, and expensive. Has anyone else combined Drake Bay and BdC and gotten from one to the other without flying and, if so, how?

Thanks!

You could also drive, but that would be subject to conditions (would not try in rainy season) and some rather challenging roads.

Tully -- Maybe I'm just blocking out the things about Encanta I didn't like because it was my first trip to the Osa and I loved the area so much! I agree completely that it could use some updating, and the mosquito nets are definitely one area they could improve upon. Beds were just OK in general, but with four queen beds in the room we were able to get comfortable. I really did like the property in general though, and thought the location was pretty great -- my morning walk down to Pan Dulce (and especially Backwash) was my favorite part of the day. It was certainly a basic sort of accommodation, but that upper cabina did seem to be on a prime monkey route -- we generally saw at least three -- and sometimes all four -- varieties of monkey every day (we were there in Dec. 2011.)

Jane - Iguana Lodge is located out on Playa Platanares, which is fairly close to Puerto Jimenez, but not in the direction of Matapalo. (From Iguana Lodge, you have to go back to PJ before going out to the Matapalo area.) To get from Iguana Lodge to Matapalo is about an hour trip, I believe (but someone please correct me if I'm mistaken).

In answer to your other question, I think the easiest way to get from Drake Bay to PJ is to fly -- it's about a 10 min. flight and is not very expensive. If I were going to combine the two, that's definitely how I would do it (but I haven't been to Drake Bay yet).

Jane there are 3 beaches. In order of coming in off the main road they are: Pan Dulce (calmest, for swimming), Backwash (often surfers & paddle boarders) and then Matapalo Beach, the one where there is usually the highest concentration of surfers. They often do the beginner surfing at Pan Dulce, as it has small waves on one end.

Re Drake, RK is correct, you can fly from DB to PJ (but not, I believe, vice-versa) for about $40 pp. A transfer would be pricey, I think last time I asked around it was $150-200.

RK you must have got to Encanta right after me. I left there on 12/01.

ok thanks guys, this is very helpful. I emailed Finca Maresia again and this time got a reply right away. The owner there told me a taxi from Drake Bay to PJ would be about $125, but that doesn't get me to Matapalo. If we fly Drake Bay to PJ it's going to be about $160 but then also still need to get to Matapalo. But at least it would be faster I guess.

I think with your help I'm getting a handle on the beaches and the geography and how to get from one place to another now, kind of. I think it would be nice to stay at all three places if it's not too difficult, Drake Bay, Matapalo and Bosque (in that order)

So if we stayed at say Casa Bambu which says it's on Playa Pan Dulce, is it walking distance to the other two surf spots? or I was also looking at a place called Osa Clandestina that looks really nice, says 5-minute walk to the beach, I think Pan Dulce. Any other places you all recommend to consider that are on or within a short walk to these surf beaches?

And then lastly, how would we get from Matapalo to Bosque del Cabo for our last stop - I guess I should ask Bosque what they recommend!

$125 is a really good rate I think. The Nature Air fare will possibly come down - last time I checked it was $38 pp for the 10 minute flight.

Casa Bambu is also down by Pan Dulce. I'm probably not the best keeper of time, I tend to dawdle, look at monkeys, etc, but I'd say it's about a 20 minute walk from Pan Dulce to Matapalo if you walk w/out stopping. The closest place to Matapalo I've seen is a place called Kapu, have only seen the outside. It is right across the road from the break. There was also a nice place before it, right at the curve of bamboo....I'll see if I can find the name.

I've also stayed at a place down there, about 3-4 minutes walk to Matapalo called Surfside Bungalows. Bungalows really nice, small pool. My main issue is sort of the opposite of yours - I don't surf, so being by the surfing spot and a goodly walk from the swimming beach was sort of a pain. I'll try to see if I can recall other places I've seen down there.

I agree with doing DB, Matapalo & BdC in that order, would be the smoothest. Bosque has always just come & picked me up when I stay in Matapalo, I just tell them a preferable time and they're there. (Usually around 10 or 11 cause I want to get there in time to get lunch and the infamous tuna melt )

Wow - Osa Clandestina looks pretty great! I haven't heard of them before but just looked at their website and reviews, and I don't see how you could go wrong. The only thing I can't figure out it exactly where they're located -- my best guess is that they're up on the hill behind Pan Dulce, sort of where the two Casa Bambu houses are that are on the other side of the beach road. If anyone knows for sure I'd love to know.

It's great that they include all meals in their rates. When we went to the Osa this past April, we rented a huge house just south of there (in Carbonera, very close to Martina's), and while the house, owners and location were all great, we realized that we don't really like cooking for ourselves while on vacation. The vacation was still great, but having to do all the shopping for a week, bring ice out with us, etc., was a little more work than we expected (although I can make a pretty respectable gallo pinto now!) In any event, it's one more thing to consider when you're deciding on a property.

Could I have used the word "great" a little more? Geez. Wish I could edit some of those out!

LOL RKprov it DOES look pretty great! I know, I wish Fodors would let you edit like TA does. Yes, I'm trying to find out exactly where they are. I'm torn between so many places just on Matapalo now!

Osa Clandestina
Casa Bambu
Casa la Vida es Una Ola
Encanta La Vida

Oy vey!

I also don't like to cook on vacation so the availability of someone else cooking for me is essential. It's cool that Osa Clandestina has that included. I think most of those others have that as an option for an extra charge. But then there's the issue of someone has to shop for the food and all that.

The one thing about Casa Clandestina that isn't ideal is that it seems there are a bunch of steps to go down to the beach and back up - a few of these other places seem to be more actually on the beach.

Aha! If you go to Google Maps (www.maps.google.com) and do a search for Osa Clandestina, you can see exactly where they are located (you can see the three cabinas very clearly). They are up the hill a bit, but are basically at the same elevation as the two Casa Bambu properties that are on the same side of the road. It wouldn't bother me to up the hill like that, and should make for good views and possibly better breezes. Just FYI, Encanta is also set back a bit from the beach. The other two Casa Bambu properties (Casa Bambu and Casa Linda) are closer to the water. Those properties get very good reviews, but if you're not up to shopping and cooking you would have to make arrangements to have them do that.

Ah, perfect, thank you RKprov. Whatever did we do before Google? that is very helpful.

Ok, very good I think I'm leaning in that direction and I think this trip is beginning to make sense to me now!

Colibri, if you're still reading this thread, I was interested in knowing more about the Wildlife Sanctuary tour. We did Projecto Asis in the Arenal area last time we visited CR and we all loved it. You sounded a little disappointed in this sanctuary (i.e. not that many animals). Can you say a little more about it? Is it worth doing? (anyone else who's done it, please chime in also!) I have seen a lot of good reviews about it.

If we did it, would it make sense to do it from Cabo Matapalo? It's supposedly a 35 minute ride to the airport in PJ from there but not sure where the tours leave from. Who was it that you said you used, Colibri - did your tour go right from Iguana Lodge? I"m still trying to get a handle on where everything is relative to other things so I have to do a google map with Iguana Lodge and Osa Clandestina, etc.!

Our boat tour left from the pier in PJ and Iguana Lodge is about a 10 minute drive on the other side of town, heading away from Matapalo beaches. We booked Iguana specifically for beach time and Golfo Dulce tours vs. doing them from BdC.

I would say we enjoyed the sanctuary, but were a bit underwhelmed by it considering the price for boat/admission. The animals that were being treated included a few peccaries, a sloth, scarlet macaw plus the resident monkey, Sweetie and the other one whose name I can't remember. I don't think everyone could live in such isolation, so it's commendable what Carol is trying to do - I guess our expectations were higher than reality!

One thing that was a bit odd - we knew in advance not to wear earrings, sunglasses, bracelets, etc. Our boat driver/guide even had us take off our wedding bands yet the volunteers who were going into the cages and handling the animals were wearing all kinds of jewelry - just kind of weird.

We had booked the tour through Iguana Lodge and had planned on the sanctuary and dolphin spotting. However the surf was really rough due to a supermoon and instead of looking for dolphins, our guide suggested Plan B - going up the Rio Esquina. We loved that part of the trip and saw plenty of wildlife along the river and in the mangroves.

Because the surf was so strong no one was swimming at the Iguana Lodge beach, but there were people surfing.

Ok, thanks for the info, Colibri. Thanks for helping me get oriented to where things are some more. I did look on Google maps and saw that Iguana Lodge is a lot closer to PJ than the places we're looking at staying.

Re the Sanctuary, if it is still that few animals by the time we go, not sure it's worth it to us to go either, given that we went to this great one Projecto Asis in Arenal already. The mangrove tour sounds nice though - we did one of those in the Manuel Antonio area i think it was and really enjoyed it and even saw a silky anteater there! That IS odd about the jewelry thing. Maybe the volunteers are willing to risk it but for liability reasons, they don't want visitors wearing it - monkey could tear a hole in your ear, etc. and you could sue!

Ok here's one more question: have any of you stayed at Casa Corcovado Jungle lodge? I want to go to both Corcovado Park for at least a day trip and also to Cano Island to snorkel and I know they are very close to the Jungle lodge and they have packages that include those trips. Trying to decide if it'd be better to stay there and do those trips from there rather than staying at another place in Drake Bay (have been looking at Finca Maresia there, an inexpensive but highly recommended B&B).

If money's no object, than I would go for Casa Corcovado over Finca Maresia (and we LOVED Finca Maresia).

But Casa Corcovado is crazy expensive--about twice as expensive as places like Iguana Lodge and Bosque del Cabo.

But, if you stayed at Casa Corcovado, you couldn't do the Night Tour with Tracy the Bug Lady.

oh ok thanks RAC. I don't want crazy expensive because we're trying to not spend a fortune, having done that this past summer in Africa! And I do really want to do the Night Tour with Tracy the Bug Lady (never thought I'd be writing that LOL). I didn't do the math to try to figure out whether Casa Corcovado was really as much more as it sounded since their packages include air and tours, but you are probably right. I should have us save money where we can especially since Finca Maresia sounds so good.

I just realized I miscalculated my days and if we arrive in CR the day I wanted to we will miss most of the Fodorites at BdC because I was trying to make BdC our last stop, thinking most people say one should. What do people think of this idea: instead of making BdC last, make it in the middle, so it would go:

WEDS night 6/26: overnight flight to CR, arrive around noon 6/27 , fly to Drake Bay arrive by 3 pm approx

THURS, FRI, SAT 6/27, 28, 29: 3 nights Drake Bay

SUN 6/30: Fly Drake Bay to PJ, get picked up by BdC at airport (they do that, right?)

SUN, MON, TUES 6/30, 7/1 and 7/2: 3 nights BdC, all of which are during the Fodorite GtG

WEDS a.m. 7/3 get from BdC to Cabo Matapalo some how (taxi or BdC transport if they'll provide)

WEDS, THURS, FRI nights 7/3, 4 and 5: stay at Cabo Matapalo (Osa Clandestina or Casa Bambu)

SAT July 6: fly home (my birthday!)

Anyone see any problem with this order? Thanks!

You may want to check Sansa & Nature Air but as far as I know, most flights depart before noon to DB (and many other places as well). You will probably have to overnight in San Jose/Alajuela that first night.

Yes BdC picks up from PJ airport and can drop you off in Matapalo. I would have plenty of cushion in your layover if you're going to fly from the Osa to SJO then back to the states in one fell swoop. Have done it twice before but both times it was very close.

ah thanks tully, that's the kind of thing I wanted to see if you experts knew. I feel like I read somewhere that there were flights up until about 3 p.m. but that might have been to PJ not DB. I will also check the timing on the way home. If necessary we could overnight in SJ on the way home as we'd leave Matapalo on a Sat and could arrive home on a Sun. I'm just trying to avoid leaving sooner at the beginning so that (a) husband can take off fewer days from work and (b) daughter has a few days to recover from returning from Argentina! But if need be, we could leave one day earlier. thanks.

Jane it's possible but just checked Nature Air and fares aren't out yet for Green season. Going just by memory, for that time of year, to PJ there's usually a 6am (ish) flight, one around 8:30am and one around 11am (ish). Can't recall if they have the afternoon flight in green season or not but think only 1 of those flights stop in DB. Again, strictly by memory so will have to wait til the actual schedules come out.

As for the return, as long as you have a decent cushion, it is do-able to come home all in one day, just make sure you have a few hours in between.

Thanks for checking, Tully. Do flights to Drake Bay from SJO stop in PJ first then go on to Drake Bay or are there flights that go straight to DB?

I just emailed with Juan of Finca Maresia in Drake Bay and he said "in high season we have 2 planes per day in both companies, the fly are, ... one around 9 a.m., and the other around 12 a.m." I am not sure if he considers this high season, I know some places do still call it that. I think he means 12 pm for the second plane, but not sure if those are leaving SJO those times or arriving DB those times.

He also had some good ideas in case we can't make it in time for a plane to DB the same day we arrive at SJO. He said
If you have to spend one night in San Jose, and also book 4 flight tickets to DB ... maybe should be better arrange a private transfer (around 200 - 250$ from San Jose), and you arrive on time to Sierpe to get the afternoon boat to DB(departing at 4 p.m.). Or better than "lose" one night in San Jose, ... spend that night in Sierpe and do a mangrove tour the next day before you get the boat."

Basically all the flights to DB are really to PJ. DB doesn't get enough passengers for a separate flt. So yes, some flights are San Jose - DB - PJ and some are just San Jose - PJ. Also, I am going off of Nature Air which departs from Pavas (about 30 minutes from the Int'l airport), since I always fly with them. There is also Sansa which departs right next to the Int'l airport, assuming their schedule is similar to NA's.

June would be low (Green/Rainy) season, high season runs thru April or so. If you're planning to fly from DB to PJ, you may want to keep an eye on NA's website, and grab seats as soon as they green season booking. There's usually only 1 flight a day that stops in DB in the way to PJ.

A transfer would be possible, though if your flight gets in around noon you wouldn't get there in time for the boat. It's about 6 hours driving.

***Completely unsolicited advice....I think your trip would be a lot more relaxing if you limited yourself to just 2 locations. Getting in/around the Osa can be time consuming in itself and sometimes all the coordination doesn't quite work. Or - sometimes it does...just throwing out my dos colones.

Tully - thanks for all the help. And I do not mind the unsolicited advice. I totally agree that it would be more relaxing if we limited ourselves to 2 locations. But I am not sure how to do that and also do all the things we want to do without everyone having to travel long distances and pay big taxi fees for the trips. If you can suggest a better way to do all the things, I'm totally psyched to hear it.

Assuming I don't mind giving up the night tour with Tracie the bug lady, then we COULD theoretically skip the whole Drake Bay portion and just do trips to Corcovado and Cano Island from either Matapalo or BdC. It's just that they'd be farther to get to (and cost more I guess?) but then we'd be cutting out the costs to get to DB and back to PJ so maybe the cost would even out - not sure, since the lodging we've been looking at in DB is cheaper.

So what do you think would be the best way to do those trips, also spending several nights at Cabo Matapalo for the easy surfing for husband and doing BdC?

I guess we could stay at Iguana Lodge for the days we would have stayed at Drake Bay and do tours from there instead of from DB? Tully do you think that would make the logistics less daunting?

Oh and just to clarify when I said "easy surfing for husband" I meant staying right by the 3 breaks that he wants to surf so he can easily walk to them and not have a long hike or having to be driven both ways as it would be if he tries to surf from BdC. I'd like him to have his surfing days and then have our family time at BdC all together so none of us feels slighted!

LONG and expensive boat ride from PJ/Matapalo to Cano Island.

Only way to see Corcovado from that area is hiking or charter plane $4-500 each way IIRC). Drake Bay is only option for boating in.

I think if you stay at Bosque and Matapalo area, you're going to pretty much going to see everything there is to see in Corocvado with the exception of possibly tapir's. (Actually they have found tapir prints on the Bosque grounds). But - there's no guarantee you'd even see one, I've seen one but it was outside the park. Cano island, haven't been but I have heard it's not like snorkeling the islands and a lot of the coral is in not so great shape. Philip at BdC gives a great sunset tour, you almost see what he says you will - snakes, bats, spiders, frogs and whatever else is out that night.

If you stay at Iguana Lodge, you'd have options for tours but different ones. You could do the river/mangrove tour, see dolphins swimming in the Golfo, etc. Here's a good link that covers pretty much all on the Osa http://www.soldeosa.com/

I completely agree with tully. We've seen lots more wildlife, actually, outside of Corcovado, though we didn't venture deep into the park.

Also, we liked the animal sanctuary, especially booked as part of a dolphin/snorkeling/sanctuary tour. Sweetie was, well, sweet, and even crawled up onto my lap. We appreciated that former poachers were given jobs as guides. The tour we were on was run by Carol's former husband (a couple of years ago); maybe it's run differently now.

ok I think you guys have me convinced about skipping Drake Bay. I"ve snorkeled in Hawaii and have been reading that Cano Island snorkeling is not as good. Probably if I were a diver it'd be worth it. And everyone keeps saying the same thing about Corcovado, that you don't usually see different wildlife there than at Bosque or the Matapalo area. Maybe tapir, but the lodge owner at Osa Clandestina told me a few tapir have been spotted in the Matapalo region every now and then.

Ok time to re-work the plans - maybe 5 days Bosque and 4 at the beach/waves .... sounds like Bosque has room in Toucan for whichever dates I want but I want to decide soon and pin that down and also figure out the international flights. I wonder if they'll go down in price if I wait or get worse? They are pretty high right now (we will be flying from SFO). If we didn't mind travel time to SJO taking 12 hours, could do United for about $640 round trip and maybe use FF miles for one of our fares. But Taca (which we did last time) is more like 7 hours, straight from SFO to El Salvador, quick layover, then on to SJO. But it's about $774 - ouch! I think maybe United miles can be used on Taca but I'm never sure how that works, whether I have to book it through Taca or United or what?