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Spring in Oaxaca - a perfect getaway for our 15th wedding anniversary!

Spring in Oaxaca - a perfect getaway for our 15th wedding anniversary!

Old Mar 24th, 2014, 03:22 PM
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Spring in Oaxaca - a perfect getaway for our 15th wedding anniversary!

Hello everyone!

My husband and I were in Oaxaca for a week in early March. We are a couple who are 38 and 40 from New York, who love to travel independently. We've only been to Guatemala and Peru previously, as far as Central and South American countries go.

I'm going to have this report completed as soon as I can, but work will get in the way, so please excuse my tardiness.

I hope you will find this useful.
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Old Mar 24th, 2014, 03:31 PM
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Arrival in Oaxaca

We've wanted to travel to Mexico before, but never did for a couple of reasons. One, we thought we'd wait till we got our green card, so we could travel without a visa (silly I know, but a big deal for us as Indians, since we need a visa to travel pretty much anywhere in the world!) and two, because when the place is relatively near, you figure you can go anytime. Well, "any time" didn't come around even after we became residents, because there were always other parts of the world tugging at our heart strings. We did come close to going to the Yucatan in 2007 when we wanted to see Mayan ruins, but a friend convinced us to go to Guatemala instead and we loved it. This year, we celebrated our 15th wedding anniversary in January and were looking to escape for a week in early March - somewhere not too far, that required not too much planning, was at least a little warmer than it was in NY this winter, and with a heaps of local culture and great food - and Mexico immediately sprung to mind.

We are not the beach or AI types and wanted a combination of a colonial city with activities and day trip possibilities. While I briefly considered Puebla and Morelia/Patzcuaro, Oaxaca quickly became my destination of choice. Why Oaxaca? I first heard of Oaxaca (pronounced Wa-ha-ka) on an episode of Anthony Bourdain a few years ago. The images of all the wonderful market stalls, grilled chorizo and meats, many varieties of chiles and that amazing thing called the mole ground using metates made with volcanic stone using secret family recipes, stuck with me all this time. Ajit and I love food and global food traditions and influences, and enjoy humble street food and fancy restaurants equally. That was the first reason. Oaxaca City is also a Unesco World Heritage site nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains dotted with ruins and villages with at least 16 different indigenous communities specializing in pottery, handicrafts and weaving using processes that have been passed down through the generations. And, that was the second reason.

Our trip would be for a week from March 1 - 9. Once our flights were booked, I contacted Las Bugambilias, a lovely B&B near Santo Domingo, but they were full. They did have a room available at their sister B&B, Los Milagros, which worked out great. They didn't have a room for our last night though, but very kindly put me in touch with Hotel Azucenas near by, so I got a room for 1 night there. I did some research on places to see and things to do, but didn't want to plan anything in advance giving us more flexibility while we were there. With one exception - for our first day there, a Sunday, I wanted to visit Tlacolula which hosts a weekly market (called tianguis) considered the largest and busiest in the region. Along the route, I also wanted to stop at Teotitlan, famous for its weaving, and Mitla, a Zapotec archaeological site. In order to make the most of our day, I arranged a car/driver with Casa Milagros.

We fly United from NYC to Oaxaca with a layover in Houston. I pick a Houston layover to give ourselves a fighting chance of making the connection without the hassle of immigration should we run into snow delays in NYC. Luckily, we fly out on a relatively warm Saturday afternoon and arrive in Oaxaca at 8:30pm. It feels so good to get out of the freezing plane into the warm Oaxacan night tinged with the wonderful fragrance of flowers! The airport is small and new and it's the quickest immigration we've ever been through. Given our late arrival, I've asked the B&B to arrange for a pickup. We try the ATM in the airport but it doesn't recognize our cards (which is weird), so we decide to head to the hotel and stop at an ATM along the way. It's a 15 minute drive to the historic center of the city, and along the way we pass a Bajaj Auto store. Why is this relevant or interesting to us? Because, Bajaj is an Indian company (in fact, one of the largest conglomerates and oldest industrial families in India) and as we later learn, they make all the moto taxis (called auto rickshaws in India and tuk-tuks in SE Asia) in Mexico. The streets are lively at this hour with carts selling food and people strolling along the sidewalks. We pick up some cash from an ATM nearby and are dropped off outside our hotel. In hindsight, we could have easily taken a collectivo (shared taxi) from the airport, and it would have been much cheaper, but given our ATM issues, this is probably for the best.

Casa Milagros is a B&B run by Rene Cabrera and his wife, Adriana (the Cabrera family runs 3 B&Bs and a restaurant/cooking class) in a beautifully restored colonial house with just 3 rooms and a large shared living area, kitchen, patio and terrace. It is very intimate and feels like you're in someone's home - just what we like. It is not staffed all day and night like hotels are, but since they know when we're arriving, there's someone waiting to check us in. We're in the Gloria room upstairs, it's small and cozy. After freshening up, we go up to the terrace for a bit and consider walking out and getting some food from the roadside stalls. All those lovely smells as we drove by are making us hungry. But, we have a long day ahead tomorrow and decide instead to call it a night.
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Old Mar 24th, 2014, 06:30 PM
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Reading along here Seemaskt and enjoying it. Oaxaca is one of my very favorite places!

Interesting about the autorickshaws! We've just returned from two months in India and rode in many an autorickshaw! We thought maybe they were all made in Italy - just because so many seemed to say "Piaggio" on them . . . . Do lots also say "bajaj"?
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Old Mar 24th, 2014, 07:11 PM
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Hi glover! Welcome back from India! Hope you had a great trip. I wish I could spend 2 months in India - will have to wait until we retire.

Your comment about Piaggio made me go look it up. Apparently, Bajaj produced them under the Piaggio license from 1959 to 1974 after which they produced under their own name. Piaggio still manufactures autos for the Indian market, though I must confess that I haven't seen one. But, its quite likely that I take for granted that its a Bajaj auto and pay no attention to the make anymore.
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Old Mar 24th, 2014, 08:32 PM
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Enjoying your report!
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Old Mar 25th, 2014, 05:11 AM
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Thanks for reading along.

The road to Milta

We're up bright and early on Sunday morning. At breakfast, we meet the other guests - Rose and Larry, a couple from Tuscon, and Gail and Joanne, two friends from Boston. Breakfast is an amazing 2 course meal around a communal table, with fruits, fresh fruit juice, banana bread and home made fruit preserves, yogurt and granola and tea/coffee. Mind you, this is just the first course. The second course is different each day that we're there. Today, we're having tamale with black beans in a mole amarillo. The fruits and juice are different each day as well. Today, we have mangoes. Wow, I haven't had mangoes this good since summer of last year! And, all of this is whipped up by Cristina and Rufina, the lovely chefs in the kitchen who also keep the entire house spic and span. We get along well with the other guests and once we've sized each other up, conversation flows freely. It's a fun group.

We're supposed to go out on the day trip with Rene, but he has a family emergency (Adriana lets me know this the day before we leave so it's not a problem), so his friend Louis will be our driver/guide for the day. As we head out of the city towards Teotitlan del Valle, we see open land sprinkled with agave plants of all sizes and large cacti, with mountains looming in the distance. There are pretty lavender Jacaranda tress in bloom, signalling that spring is in the air. It's mostly dry though - it hasn't rained since September and the rainy season doesn't start until June. We pass by several mezcal distilleries before we turn into the village of Teotitlan, a Zapotec village famous for their centuries old weaving tradition producing colorful hand loomed rugs using natural dyes.

We have asked Louis to take us off the tourist circuit to a well regarded weaver's house so we can better understand the weaving process and hopefully buy a rug, or two. He takes us to Bulmaro Perez Mendoza. BP is a fifth generation weaver and his family uses natural dyes and pure wool. He shows us the different types of wool (mostly imported, including alpaca and mohair), the processing, carding and spinning of the wool, all done by hand and finally, the ingredients used in the dyeing process - indigo for blue, nutshells and henna for brown, marigolds for orange, pomegranate shells for gold, cochineals (a parasite from the cactus plant) for red and so on. The other fascinating part about this process is how he uses honey, lime and calcium (limestone) to create many more colors - yellows turns to gold, reds to pinks and lush purples, blues to a myriad shades of green. Bulmaro places some cochineals on my palm. As I crush them, I splatter red pigment all over his crisp white linen shirt. A few drops of lime juice turns my palm pink and mixing in a dab of calcium turns it purple. It's magic, or science! Then, we watch as he shows us how the rugs are loomed using foot pedal looms. What we like about Bulmaro is that while he stays true to traditional processes, he is also forward looking and creates rugs and designs that are unique but with broad appeal. He tells us that two of his rugs were displayed at the Folk Art museum in NYC - we plan to check it out when we get back home. We spend several minutes looking through his rugs and ultimately (and with great difficulty) pick two - they're both gorgeous. We pay with a CC and Bulmaro promises to drop them off at our hotel tomorrow.

It's almost 11 by the time we leave and Louis thinks we should drive on towards Mitla instead of heading to Tlacolula first. On the way, we stop at a small mezcal factory in Santiago Matatlan. Mezcal is an alcoholic beverage made from the heart of the maguey plant, a type of agave. Most of the mezcal in Mexico is made in Oaxaca, and it is still predominantly hand crafted using 500 year old traditional methods by small scale distillers creating an artisanal product. Tequila, on the other hand, is an industrialized and more commercial process, given its popularity. We watch the roasting process in an earthen pitt, grinding of the mash by horse or donkey powered mills and finally the fermentation and distillation process. Then we get down to business - the tasting. We taste 4 types - blanco, reposado (aged 6 months), and a couple of anejos (aged 5 and 8 years). The reposado bottle also has the agave worm in it. We enjoy the smoky aroma and complex flavors and the anejo is really smooth. In between tastings, we suck on orange segments dipped in a chile spiked salt with crushed agave worms. It's really good. Having had nothing to eat since breakfast, the mezcal hits us hard. Time to stop the tasting! We buy a bottle of the anejo with a couple of pouches of the mezcal salt thrown in.
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Old Mar 25th, 2014, 05:11 AM
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Then, it's on to Mitla, a half hour drive away. Mitla was once an important religious and ceremonial center for the Zapotecs, inhabited since about 650 BC, but reached its peak between 750-1500 AD. It is famous for its unique stone mosaics and intricate geometrical designs that cover tombs and walls across the site, and we easily spend more than an hour here as there is a lot to see. It's impressive and well worth the trip. The mid-day sun is burning us up now and we're hungry, so we decide to skip Yagul and head straight to the Tlacolula market. In hindsight, given our love of markets and the time, we should have gone to Tlacolula first and then to Yagul and Mitla.

It's about 1:30 when we arrive and we make a beeline for the barbacoa stalls to enjoy the specialty of this town - goat barbacoa and the soup made from the stock and drippings. Just entering the large noisy hall with the many stalls and tables busy with lunch customers has us excited. Ajit and I share a barbacoa taco and a soup. There is salsa, guacamole and a burn-your-lips spicy onion, habanero relish along with a plate of fresh greens and radishes that we order. The taco is large and rolled up filled with tender delicious meat and the rich soup is heaven - especially when topped with the crunchy greens. Feeling nourished, we decide to wander the market on our own and agree to meet back up with Louis in an hour. There are fresh tropical fruits, vegetables, breads, flowers, whole chickens cooking on small grills, lots of meat stalls with locals buying their meat and grilling it themselves on the many grills, fresh tortillas, cheese, prepared foods, clothes, household items - you get the idea. We see some of the women, especially the older generation, in their traditional clothes and braided hair. Though not as much as we did in Guatemala or Peru or Vietnam. People come from surrounding villages, both near and far, to sell and buy goods at this market and others in the valley. I pick up some cubed sugarcane and tamarind with chile powder - perfect to snack on later in the day. We meet up with Louis and decide to have our second meal - an empanada filled with chorizo and quesillo (Oaxacan string cheese) for us and a huarache with the same toppings for Louis. The empanadas here, unlike the South American variety, are large and thin, toasted on a metal plate called a comal and filled with different toppings. It's fun to watch the women at the stall quickly make the base using a tortilla press, grill and stuff them. The pollo with mole amarillo and zucchini flowers with quesillo are very tempting as well, but we are so full we can barely breathe. It's too bad. All this food we've eaten along with a couple of Pepsis and we pay a little more than 200 pesos for the 3 of us. Such a bargain for fabulous food and lively atmosphere. This remains one of our favorite meals of the trip. We stop at the 16th century Dominican church next to the market for a few pictures before we walk back to the car.

Our last stop for the day is at Santa Maria del Tule to see the famous 2000 year old cypress tree that is supposed to be the oldest and widest in the world. This is a quick obligatory stop so we can walk around the massive girth of the tree and admire its gnarled trunk and what seems like a forest above it filled with chirping birds. It's 4pm when we get back home after what feels like a long but rewarding day. We say good bye to Louis, thinking we wouldn't see him again. But, boy, were we wrong.
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Old Mar 25th, 2014, 06:52 AM
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Great detailed report, loving it! I love Oaxaca and out of anyplace in Mexico, I chose it for our 25th wedding anniversary. I had been there several times,but it was my husband's first time, and he loved it. We took a colectivo bus from close to the stadium in Oaxaca straight to the Tlacolula market in Sunday also. Great day.
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Old Mar 25th, 2014, 07:28 AM
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We also visit the Sunday market with our new friend Manuel. He arranged for a 3 wheel cab to tale us to the Women's Pottery studio the next town South. Although closed on Sunday Manuel persuaded them to open up for a private demonstration.
PS Sampled the goat meat but found the Carnitas much more to our liking so had several tacos from this most delicious meat.
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Old Mar 25th, 2014, 07:31 AM
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One more PS. I would urge all to contact Manuel at

I would urge all to e-mail him at [email protected], phone 52441248 for a visit to his studio. Neither my wife nor I had understood the hard work & artistry involved in weaving his gorgeous rugs.

He gave us 3 full days of guiding refusing any payment.
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Old Mar 25th, 2014, 09:17 AM
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Thanks for reading along emd and stewbear.

emd - I had many friends question our choice of Oaxaca for an anniversary celebration! I am glad that you chose it for a special occasion as well. We could've easily spent another week there.

stewbear - Sounds like you had a great experience with Manuel. Thanks for the contact. I'm sure it'll help others traveling to the area.
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Old Mar 25th, 2014, 10:24 AM
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We freshen up a bit and then head back out towards the Zocalo or main plaza in the city center. The buildings here are low and colorful with ornate architectural elements. Some freshly painted while others show their age and the effects of many earthquakes. Reminds us so much of Antigua in Guatemala, except you see mountains in the far distance here instead of looming volcanoes. We walk along Matamoros and then zig zag our way through smaller streets until we get to the Zocalo. The late afternoon light is lovely. We stop first at the Alameda plaza next to the zocalo flanked by a large cathedral with a baroque style facade. There are throngs of people here - balloon, roasted corn and ice cream sellers, kids running around blowing bubbles in the air, families and friends chatting on benches - it's a social gathering hub. The zocalo is no different, though a little calmer. We walk around the zocalo - there are mobile stations where you can get your shoes shined, musicians playing in every corner and a band playing next to the cathedral. Soon, trucks are brought in and chairs laid out, and large musical instruments set up - looks like a grand musical performance is on the cards. Several people dressed in their Sunday best (and very fashionable I might add) come by and take their seats, and so do we. It appears to be a police band, and as we wait for the VIPs to arrive, their marching band with drums and dogs go around the zocalo a couple of times. There's excitement in the air and great anticipation. Soon, the VIPs arrive, speeches are made, and the band begins playing. The second the main singer opens his mouth, we realize this is not meant to be - the poor guy can't carry a note! It's quite sad really, and after a few minutes, we decide to leave and get dinner. I wonder how long everybody else stuck around for.

We walk along Alcala (the pedestrian street) towards Santo Domingo and turn towards Reforma hoping to try La Jolla (the restaurant owned by Pilar Cabrera, Rene's sister), but it's closed on Sundays. Alcala is flanked on both sides by galleries, restaurants and shops and is all lit up. We see another restaurant, Los Pacos, around the corner, so step in there. For dinner, we start with memelitas (little memelas) topped with aciento (or lard), black beans and queso. I have a margarita while Ajit sticks to Coke. The condiments are smoky, spicy and delicious. For the main course, Ajit has pork with mole negro while I have pollo with mole colorado and we share a tomato salad. The moles are rich and complex with deep sophisticated flavors. The mole negro with a hint of chocolate is scrumptious. Not a bad first dinner in Oaxaca! The weather is lovely - a tad chilly but comfortable with a light sweater or jacket - but so much nicer than what we've become accustomed to in NYC these past few months. We decide to linger outside just a little longer and sit in Labastida plaza between Alcala and Cinco de Mayo. This becomes our favorite plaza in the city - it's pretty with a lovely fountain and trees including a Jacaranda, quiet but still has plenty of people watching opportunities. After a while, it's time to head back home. We pass by several karaoke bars that seem to be very popular with locals and watch a woman setup her tiny memela station a block away from Milagros. It's only about 9:30 and she's just setting up. We see her every night when we walk home but we're usually too full to eat her food.

Coming up: Our first full day in Oaxaca City
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Old Mar 25th, 2014, 01:09 PM
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More of the colorful detail that made your report last year on Morocco so enjoyable. Thanks!
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Old Mar 25th, 2014, 02:30 PM
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Good to see you here, Fra! And thanks!

Have you been enjoying this lovely winter we've been having in NYC? I'm counting on it getting warmer starting Thursday. No more snow!!
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Old Mar 25th, 2014, 05:48 PM
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YAY! More please! I love your observations. this makes me want to go back to Oaxaca again, and I have been there 6 times already!

Any chance of some pictures? Would love to see the rugs you chose, etc....but this comes from a person who never posts pictures so I understand if you do not do so.

Gotta love those intricate moles. Some of them take many days to make and have over 40 ingredients...a true labor of love.
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Old Mar 25th, 2014, 05:50 PM
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Hey Stewbear, so glad to see you posting here. We are all waiting on a report from you on your nice long time in Oaxaca when you get back.
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Old Mar 25th, 2014, 06:21 PM
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Lol emd...lucky you having been there 6 times.

Yes, we do have lots of pictures. It'll take me a few weeks to go through them all and narrow them down and finally upload them to our website. It'll take my husband even longer. I'll come back and post a link to our pics here when they're ready.

I'll be back with more tomorrow.
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Old Mar 26th, 2014, 03:43 PM
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You are an excellent writer, seemaskt. Your report makes me feel that I'm right next to you in Oaxaca! I can smell that mole...
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Old Mar 26th, 2014, 04:56 PM
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Oooo, just checking back to see if there is more to droll over, but I will wait and suffer in patience...
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Old Mar 26th, 2014, 07:28 PM
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Thanks Cattail and emd! You guys are encouraging me to write as quickly a I can. I had to meet a friend for dinner after work, so sorry about the delay. I've got a few paragraphs written about our 2nd day, but I'll have to wrap it up tomorrow.

A lovely day in a colonial city

Breakfast on our second morning is great - there's perfectly ripe papaya (another one of my favorite tropical fruits) along with quesilla simmered in a tomato sauce. We could get used to this - far removed from our oat bran/cereal breakfasts at home. We plan to get out by 9, but the conversation around the table is so interesting that we end up leaving only after 9:30. Isn't it great when you have such a good group of people? We got very lucky in Fez last year and now again in Oaxaca. Our first stop of the morning is the church and monastery of Santo Domingo. It is a beautiful structure, constructed between the 16th and 18th centuries, and another fine example of the Baroque style. We are so distracted by the lovely views of the stone church between the colorful buildings as we approach it from Cinco de Mayo, that we stop to take many pictures. The interior of the church is breathtaking and blinding considering the extensive use of 24 karat gold leaf. Every square inch of the ceiling is covered with intricate paintings and the rosary chapel is the most elaborately adorned. After looking up for a while and getting a crick in our necks, we sit down in the quiet chambers and just take it all in. Neither of us is religious, but if we were, this would definitely be a place for contemplation or meditation. Our next stop is the convent and museum attached to the church, but it's closed on Mondays. Not to worry, we use this time to find a shaded spot under the trees in front of the church and munch on some biscuits. We then walk around the convent complex and decide to make our way towards the Rufino Tamayo museum on Morelos.

We always use our first day in any city to stroll around, never walking in a straight line between points A and B, so we can get our bearings and spot things that look interesting that we can come back to later. So, a 10 minute walk could take us 30 minutes! This museum situated in a restored 17th century building with a courtyard that has a profusion of plants and colorful bougainvilleas, specializes in pre-Hispanic art and artifacts. The pieces are beautiful and well displayed in several rooms, and as lovers of pottery, both current and period, we absolutely adore this museum. It's almost lunch time and we agree to try a small well reviewed taqueria called Itanoni in the Colonia Reforma neighborhood about a mile away. We hail a taxi outside the museum and somehow manage to communicate to the driver where we want to go. We're not entirely sure he understands us though, so when the drive takes a few minutes too long than we think it should, we begin to wonder where we're headed to. Either he isn't sure of the direction himself or is taking us on a ride, but after re-confirming the address with him a couple of times using broken Spanish, we arrive at Itanoni. The drive back to the zocalo takes half the time and we could have actually walked back! We pay 50 pesos on the ride over and 40 on the way back.

This neighborhood is where middle class Oaxaquenos live and looks like any other small city - all the shopping complexes signal that we are no longer in the old or historic center. Itanoni has outdoor seating under colorful paper streamers, so we sit down on a couple of plastic chairs and order fresh orange and papaya juice and a few different tacos - there's tinga with chipotle, chorizo con papas (our least favorite), tinga with salsa verde (our favorite), rajas poblanas and conchinita pibil (our second favorite). The tacos are freshly made to order, lightly toasted on the comal, large and filling - there are no garnishes like we have on all tacos in the US, just the flavors of the corn tortilla and the minimal ingredients in the filling. And, they use only locally grown indigenous varieties of corn. Just looking at the menu, I want to order tetelas, memelitas and a pozole, but there's only so much one can eat...unfortunately. This is a lovely place for a casual lunch.
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