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Solo Female traveler in Mexico- please review my rough itinerary

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Old Apr 8th, 2015, 06:46 PM
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Solo Female traveler in Mexico- please review my rough itinerary

Hola!
I recently quit my job and now I have 3 months to travel. I think I will spend alot of that time in Mexico. I'd like to see
Guatemala, too but I won't worry about that just yet. I'd love to hear any input on my time in Mexico. To give you a sense of how I like to travel and what I like: I enjoy smaller, quaint (interesting) towns; I very much dislike tourist-y traps/big resorts. I am a photographer so I love anything beautiful- ruins, nature, places rich in culture. I enjoy healthy foods and yoga (I plan to seek out yoga places everywhere I go). Most of all, I would like to feel safe. If I like a place, I'll stick around; if I don't, I move on.

I've already been to Mexico city and San Miguel de Allende. I'm heading to Guanajuato tomorrow.

From there, I plan to travel to Morelia.

My "rough itinerary" is as follows:
*Guanajuato
*Morelia maybe a side trip to Pazchuaro
*Guadalahara maybe a side trip to Tapalpa
*Puerto Vallarta maybe a side trip to *Marieta Island. Is *Yelapa worth it?
make my way down the coast to
*Alcapulco can anyone recommend favorite beach spots along the way here?

I would like to make my way to *Oaxaca and see (I haven't figured out the order yet as I'm still doing research)
*San Christobal
*Puebla
*Palenque side trip to *Bonampak?
*Yaxchilan
any suggestions here?

I'm to meet friends 2 months from now in Belize.

I thank you all in advance for reading this and helping me plan this epic trip!
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Old Apr 8th, 2015, 07:57 PM
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I've only visited a few of the places you mention, but everything I did visit was as a solo female traveler, so I hope I can be of help.

I LOVED San Cristobal de las Casas. I gave it only 2 days -- which was enough to see the major sites -- but I can easily imagining a longer stay in this charming and lovely town.

I spent 3 nights in Palenque, so just 2 full days. I used one for a tour of the visit the excellent museum on a different day, so I had more time among the magnificent ruins. I stayed in the area known as La Caneda, and was glad I made that choice: Palenque itself did not charm me.

Hope that helps!
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Old Apr 8th, 2015, 08:32 PM
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It for sure is an epic trip. Couple of questions/comments. Since you are recently unemployed, (congrats by the way) whats your daily budget? Can you afford to do any flying? Are you driving or do you plan on using public transportation? How's your Spanish, are you semi-fluent or at least comfortable with what you do know?
There's also (respectfully) a little disconnect in your itinerary and what you say you're looking for; few small quaint towns (except for maybe Patzcuaro) are on it, and you're pretty much sticking to the tourist route. That's not a bad thing, as often smaller towns might seem to be attractive, but are often less than compelling and at times dangerous depending where you're at. So the tourist trail is a good way to go. So, a little more input would be helpful.
That said, you'll find miles of untouristed beaches on the Michoacan coast with plenty of rustic accommodations. Same with the Oaxacan coast once you get past PE.
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Old Apr 8th, 2015, 11:21 PM
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If you aren't already conversant in Spanish, I'd consider a few weeks at a good Spanish school, living with a local family, at the start of your trip. I spent 2 weeks in San Cristobal and really enjoyed it, but return to Guatemala several time/year. My photos with blog, travelogue, and review links on the main page of each collection are below in case you're interested - all my recommendations are embedded there. Happy trails!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/staceyholeman/collections
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Old Apr 9th, 2015, 08:12 AM
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*Puerto Vallarta maybe a side trip to *Marieta Island. Is *Yelapa worth it?

Yes and yes. But honestly I could (and do) spend weeks in Vallarta just kicking around right in town. It's a very vibrant and interesting place.

Here's the hotel I like. It's a central location, decent price, friendly, clean, safe.
http://hotelposadaderoger.com/

Here are two local yoga studios:
www.yogavallarta.com
www.davannayoga.com
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 05:24 AM
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Your list of cities/ towns does not jive with your reported style of travel, re smaller quaint interesting towns.

I have been to all the places on your list except P. Vallarta and area around it. Here is my input. First get a good map of the country as it doesn't sound like you understand where things are in relation to each other. Then get a good travel guide because you don't seem to understand which are the really fantastic towns that are charming and quaint, as you said were your favorite types of places. Or start looking closer at the internet re descriptions of towns and cities on your list.

Where are you flying home from, Mexico or Belize?

You unfortunately should have gone from Mexico. City to Puebla. It is a two hr 1st class bus ride. Puebla is nowhere near Oaxaca! Puebla is one of the Crown Jewels of colonial towns in Mexico, and it is a real pity if you miss it. There is nothing like it anywhere. And from Puebla you could have gone to Cholula by bus and seen the pyramid church and the volcano and a fantastic market two days a wk.

"Morelia with maybe a side trip to Patzcuaro". --- This does not jive what you say you like. According to your preferred travel style, you would go to Morelia only a gateway to getting the towns around Lake Patzcuaro. The towns around the Lake, and most of all Patzcuaro itself, are the real draw in this region. Morelia is a very big city made out of pink stone. It has some nice features, like the cathedral and a few small nice squares, but it is really a place to stay overnight, maybe two nights, and then launch off to Patzcuaro.

While in Morelia, get a guide to drive you around the towns around Lake. Patzcuaro. if you. Eyed to ask why you should do that, please read on the internet re what is unique about each of those towns. There is a history of the towns and how they each got to be famous for one art/craft in particular . Entire families devote themselves to one art/craft in each town, copper in one, wood instruments, clay pottery of Katrina's in another, embroidery in one, corn stalk flowers and straw good in another town, masks in one town, etc. it is best to pay a guide to take you around the towns on the lake, it will take a full day. The have the guide drop you off in Patzcuaro and plan to stay in Patzcuaro for several days, hopefully around a weeknd.

I can not say enough good about Patzcuaro, and my travel style is like yours. It is fantastic, cobblestone streets, you will see horses and donkeys tied up outside some of the inns as artisans and farmers bring in their wares to sell. The two squares Plaza Chica and Plaza. Grande are fantastic, always buzzing, esp on weekends. The market is fantastic and sells some items from the towns around the lake. The market at the church is frankly the best artisan market in MX. And Once Patios is also fantastic. You will hear street musicians, see giant larger than life size paper mâché puppets, and things that will just blow your mind, I highly recommend Posada Mandela as a wonderful inexpensive place to stay. I did not get out to the lake to see the butterfly fishermen but do that.

Guadalahara is a huge city, not terribly unique, frankly I would skip it and spend the extra time in Patzcuaro area.

I would skip Acapulco. There are MUCH nicer beaches and beach towns in MX. And Acqpulco has had issues with drug violence of the sort that a tourist could get caught up in accidentally, in and around nightclubs, on the street, etc. I don't say that lightly, as I feel almost all of MX gets a bad rap for dripug violence when it is really only some areas in the north and a few other areas that should be avoided. But IMO, Acapulco is too hot for drug activity for me to feel safe there.

San Cristobal is not really near Oaxaca. You will go to Palenque either on way to or fom San Cristobal to do it efficiently, although Palenque can be done as a day trip from San vritobal, it deserves an overnight stay IMO. Palenque is one of the best archeological sites in MX and the best one in the jungle IMO. There is a great museum a short hike from end of the Palenque trail, see it. Also check out the two waterfalls that can be seen from Palenque area, Misol Ha and Aguas Azul.

Then get to Oaxaca an give ypurself time there in the city, and in the villages surrounding the valley outside the city. Monte Alban also. market at Tlacalula on a Sunday is fantastic, a do not kiss IMO.

Since you seem to like beaches, Huatalco in Oaxaca is very nice. But frankly with 2 months, I would get to the Yucatan and Quintana Roo, and go to the Caribbean area, maybe Tulum with your travel style. See the ruins there Los, and then bus to Merida. Merida is a do not miss, more culture, music and dance performances each night in the lovely parks, streets around the zocalo shut down for music and dancing on. Fri and Sat nights, great Market, zocalo streets shut down on Sunday for festival in the zocalo. You can't find what Merida has in magic in any other Central Historico in Mexico. Maybe do some of the Ruta puck ruins from Merida on a day trip.

Domestic flights in MX can be very cheap. look at Viva Aerobus in particular and Interjet. I have flown from Cancun to Villa Hermosa ( to get to Palenque) and Tuxla Guitierez (to get to San. Cristobal) for cheap, like $40 to 50 USD each way. Flying gives you good options and saves precious time although bus system is cheap and good.

If you wind up the MX trip in Yucatan and Tulum area, you can make your way south to Belize pretty easily by bus to meet your friend in 2 months.
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 05:29 AM
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BTW, I love Casona Rosa for a great place to sty in Morelia. the owner, Rose from Chicago, is wonderful and her driver, Jesus can take you to the towns around Lake. Patzcuaro and then drop you at Patzcuaro at end of the day. Jesus knows the best artisans and where to go in those towns around the lake. It's a great way to see that area, I highly recommend him and Rose. you will fell like you are at home. if you book there, tell Rose and Jesus hello from Eileen in Virginia. they will remember me, as Rose had to loan me a suitcase to bring home all the woven goods and hand,ade artisan goods I acquired around the lake. I stay in the Frida room at Casona Rosa.
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 08:02 AM
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(with the huge disclaimer I have never yet been to either place) I also would skip Guadalajara and Acapulco. Just because they do not fit what you say you are seeking.

Get your beach fix in Puerto Vallarta (or to the south Barre de Navidad, Melanque to the north Bucerias, San Pancho, Ricon de Guayabitos, Sayulita).
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 11:29 AM
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emd kinda put down what I was too lazy to write. But, yeah, you're all over the place. I'm gonna put this out there: From either PV or Zihua,(for your beach fix) you can fly to Queretaro for under $70 US depending on your dates. Near there are 2 smaller, quainter towns; Bernal & Tequisquiapan, both near the airport. Bernal makes for good pictures with the pena (big monolithic rock). From there, you could go on down to Puebla and surrounds and then Oaxaca, and then decide if you wanted the Yucatan and/or Chiapas before moving on to Belize.
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 06:33 PM
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If you want beach, I can honestly say after having been to Mazatlan, Ixtapa, Zihuatenejo, Acapulco, Huatalco, all of Cabo, and all of the beaches in the Yucatan peninsula...

Don't miss the Caribbean coast of Mexico. Do NOT miss that part of the coast.

Enough said,
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 08:41 PM
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I'll just second what Suze said about the Marietas and Yelapa -- a definite YES. Also, you mention ruins. For that, I think you would want to be on the Caribbean side (pretty good beaches there, too). You might consider staying in Tulum -- or using Playa del Carmen/Riviera Maya as a base for day trips to Tulum (a 40-minute bus ride) and Chichen Itza.
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Old Apr 11th, 2015, 09:39 AM
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I disagree re doing a day trip to Chichen Itza. If you have to do CI in a day trip, just don't do it. Getting to CI at peak of day tripper time is a nightmare. Like the hawkers outside the temple-- by 10 a.m. the pathways thoughout the ruins area, right next to the the pyramid and ruins- is lined with tables and filled with hawkers yelling and selling trinkets. It is a zoo, a terrible cacophony, avoid that at all costs.

If you stay overnight the night before going to CI, at Dolores Abla down the road or better yet Mayaland or the other hotel that have gates going straight into CI, you can get into the site at 8 a.m. before any bus loads get there and before the awful hawkers line up their tables right next to the pathways around the ruins, wall to wall, and start yelling and blowing their jaguar calling devices that they try to sell.

I am not exaggerating. I have done it both ways, staying overnight the night before to get early entrance before the swarms, and doing day trip. It is night and day difference.
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Old Apr 11th, 2015, 12:45 PM
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Agree with emd, having done the trip both ways (late start and arrival during the heat of the day, crowded and staying overnight), I would pick staying overnight anytime. We have stayed twice at Hacienda Chichen Itza, highly recommend.
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Old Apr 11th, 2015, 04:26 PM
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Hmmm .... I didn't think Chichen Itza was on the OP's itinerary. The ruins at Palenque are well worth visiting, IMO. If the OP wants to venture into the Yucatan, Uxmal and the Ruta Puuc might make more sense than Chichen Itza. JMO.
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Old Apr 13th, 2015, 09:48 PM
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I second emd3's recommendations to make sure you give San Cristobal and Palenque enough time to appreciate at least the highlights, and -- if you go to Chichen Itza -- to try to do so at a time other than mid-day.

Good luck planning your time in Mexico!
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Old Apr 18th, 2015, 06:00 PM
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oh my gosh- I did not receive any (email) notifications that I got some responses here. Thank you Thank you Thank you, guys-- this is really terrific information here! I *really* appreciate those who took the time to reply to my questions. Before I left, because I was too busy packing up my house and finishing my job, I did not have much time to research this trip so I've been researching as I go along. I have underestimated bus travel times but I live and learn, right? I will look into every single one of your suggestions here.

So far, I went to Mexico City (loved it)- San Miguel de Allende (loved it)- Guanajuato (liked it, but I was ready to move on; too noisy!)- Morelia (meh)- Patzcuaro (whoa! I unexpectedly *LOVED* this place!!)- Uruapan (missed the nat'l park here cause the bus was 3 hours late-grrr!)- and now I'm in Zihuatangeo (which I'm loving).

Next I will try to make my way to Oaxaca. still trying to figure out the best way to go. I'm only going to use Acapulco as a 'break' from the bus but I want to go to Puerto Escondido. Trying to find some flight options from Zihuatanego to PE. Not looking forward to the ride from PE to Oaxaca so I welcome suggestions on how to go about that.

Again, thank you all- you've been really helpful. I promise to check back to this forum very soon.
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Old Apr 18th, 2015, 07:53 PM
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Great that you're enjoying a trip of a lifetime!
There are no direct flights from Z to PE; all go through MEX.
If you miss Acapulco, you probably won't regret it. After all, it is as resorty and tourist trappy as you can get.
Research my suggestion of flying from Z to Queretaro and then moving on to Oaxaca via Puebla via bus.
Once in Oaxaca, you can bus, van, or fly to PE (or Huatulco which has superior beaches). Flight via Aerotucan is the easiest, and will spare you a grueling 7-8 hour bus trip.
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Old Apr 18th, 2015, 08:40 PM
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>>oh my gosh- I did not receive any (email) notifications that I got some responses here. <<

Just a hint -- Fodors doesn't have a notification feature. You really must keep returning to your thread 1) to see of there is any activity, and 2) to see if something posted previously is refuted.

If you click on your screen name/'welcome' all your activity displays. If there is no new activity the treads titles are gray. If there is new activity since the last time you visited - the titles will be Bold/Blue
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Old Apr 19th, 2015, 03:49 AM
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ooocasey, where did you stay in Patzcuaro?

I did a trip report on Patzcuaro, which I loved. If you click on my scrren name, emd3, just above this posting of mine, you will et a listing of thread I have started, ones I have commented on, and then at bottom will be my trip reports. You might like the one on Patzcuaro. I am in the midst of planning a trip back there. I can't imagine staying anywhere but Posada Mandala, but it is small and can get filled up, so I would love to hear where you stayed and how you liked it.
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Old Apr 19th, 2015, 03:56 AM
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here is the Patz. trip report:

http://www.fodors.com/community/mexi...so-in-love.cfm
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