Morelia & Huatulco report....

Old Mar 11th, 2004, 10:58 AM
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Morelia & Huatulco report....

was in Morelia and Huatulco middle of February - here's a brief summary (for a more detailed culinary review go to egullet.com)

DEPARTURE
My flight, Mexicana, left Newark at 1:15 am - a fair number of Cancunnies were on the flight. Flying into Mexico City at 5 am in the morning - millions of street lights in every direction (I have yet to explore Mexico City).

DAY 1
Took a 10 am puddle jumper to Morelia. A cab from the airport to my hotel took about 30 minutes and cost 180.00. with tip 200.00. The Michoacan country side was predominately green - which was a surprise to me. Stayed at the Hotel de la Soledad, a suite was 864.00, breakfast was not included - a two story colonial mansion with a lush courtyard (http://www.hsoledad.com). The room was adequate - king size bed, 20 ft ceilings - bathroom only had a shower. After a shower and nap went for lunch to La Azotea in the Hotel Juaninos (http://www.hoteljuaninos.com.mx/). Turning the corner and seeing the Cathedral for the first time - blew me away. Imagine a swirling pink confection with 200 ft spires - a truly impressive cathedral. The historic district is charming - stately - regal. Very clean and quiet, very much the opposite of Oaxaca - which I found to be a bit worn and raucous (which has it's merits). I would highly recommend having your first lunch at La Azotea - the restaurant is located on the terrace of the Hotel Juaninos and has a jaw dropping, amazing view of the cathedral. The food is contemporary mexican - everything I had was superb. Some of the dishes I had from the menu: dried poblano stuffed with requeson and crushed shrimp in a coriander sauce (60.00), pumpkin flower and light poblano chili cream sopa (48.00), assorted Michoacan snacksnbsp;adobera (type of Panela cheese)- charales (small fish) - chile ancho with cream (68.00), smoked trout on a macadamian nut sauce (100.00), sopa tarasca (45.00), poblano stuffed with cheese covered in puff pastry and tomato sauce (70.00), jicama in a tequila caramel sauce. All the dishes were presented stylishly. My favorite dishes - the pumpkin flower and light poblano soup - a ying and yang of light yellow and light green cream soup, warm without being scalding, the flavors fresh and light; the smoked trout on the macadamia sauce, which worked very well together. I also like the Michoacan snacks - especially the little silvery fishes, which were a little salty, briny, crispy. I tried a 1/2 bottle of Mexican Blanc de Blanes X-A Domeq (100.00) - which I thought had good structure. They also make a very competent margarita (46.00). After lunch I just wandered around - the stone is really pink, the streets are very clean, the plazas on both sides of the Cathedral were buzzing with people. There is also a UNESCO/tourist booth offering free walking maps of the city in one of the plazas. I turned in early because I was feeling pretty beat - there were Valentine festivities going on, such as fireworks.
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Old Mar 11th, 2004, 11:01 AM
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DAY 2
Morelia is in the mountains and it gets chilly (low around upper 40's, low 50s - be sure to bring a jacket, scarf) I had a traditional Michoacan breakfast - uchepos ( a tamale made with green corn) with refried beans, salsa rojo and crema. Orange juice, hot chocolate, toast - 58.00. One of my reasons for visiting Morelia was to go to the butterfly preserve. I had tried to arrange a tour with Luis Miguel from MMG before i arrived but couldn't. (http://www.mmg.com.mx) As I was finishing breakfast, Luis walked up and introduced himself - he mentioned that he had an extra space in his tour that day and would I be interested in going today. I had been leaning toward going Monday - less crowds and the museums would be closed. but decided on the spur of the moment to go with the flow and decided to go. The all day excursion (400.00) to the monarch butterfly preserve in El Rosario cost 400.00 ( I gave Luis a 100.00 tip). Seven of us departed Morelia with Luis Miguel around 9 am and drove for about 2 hours through the Michoacan countryside, which is beautiful. Green fields - pear and apple tree groves, newly planted agave, shallow lakes, mountains in the distance. Luis told us the history and folklore of Michoacan. The hike into the mountains starts in El Rosario at a village that has numerous small restaurants and stores. The hike takes about 1 1/2 hours to get to the main viewing area - the air does get thinner as you hike upward through the forest. On the way up and down, I saw some people struggling with the incline and dirt path - you should be in relatively decent shape. Along the way Luis told us about the migration pattern, the theories and the folklore associated with the monarch butterflies. The butterfly nucleus drifts, and expands on the mountain side according to weather conditions. You cannot walk underneath the huge mass of butterflies clinging to the trees anymore - however, Luis did bring some high powered binoculars which allowed for incredible viewing. Also, when the sun went behind clouds, the air was filled with monarch butterflies fluttering about everywhere. Personally - I found the experience moving - it almost felt like a pilgrimage hiking into the mountains, the forest lending a cathedral like quality, the thought of millions of monarchs migrating from Canada to Mexico for the past thousands of years - a rewarding experience. Hiking back to the small village we had lunch at one of the restaurants, which was included with our excursion - we started with freshly grilled nopales, hand pressed blue corn tortillas which were thick, chewy and slightly charred form the stove. With a dollop of a wonderful home made picante amarillo salsa, I was in heaven. I ordered pollo con mole, rice and beans (which was okay, the enchiladas looked better) and quesadillas with requeson (the cheese slightly tart), which were great - a couple cervesas - this meal hit the spot perfectly. If you choose to do the butterfly excursion - I really recommend Luis - the group size was intimate, he is extremely knowledgeable and personable - a very enjoyable and satisfying experience. His company also offer tours of Morelia and surrounding environs. We made it back to Morelia around 6:30 pm. For dinner I tried three restaurants but all three were closed - seems that a lot of them close by 6 pm on Sunday. I decided to go back to La Azotea for dinner - the view and the meal were very pleasing.

DAY 3
Woke to blue skies and watched the sunlight pour into that courtyard while having breakfast - I tried corundas, which are a crumbly light tamale, also served with cream, salsa rojo, refried beans. I really liked the corundas - the airiness, the delicateness - a nice contrast to the thick beans. the UNESCO booth was closed and the tourist office, located in the Public Library, wasn't open yet, luckily I had printed out the walking guide from Frommer's (which was pretty good). I saw a lot of the major sites - numerous churches, strolling through courtyards, wandering through convents that now housed artisans, the aqueduct, the mercado de dulce. For lunch I went to Las Trojes - you'll need to take a cab - which specializes in carne. If there is one must see it is the Templo de San Diego. From the outside the church is unremarkable and plain - the inside is a riot of color and decoration - like an overly decorated cake. For dinner I had reservations at the Villa Montana (http://www.villamontana.com.mx/). Located outside of the historic district, in the mountains, with an incredible view - I sipped Don Julio tequila (56.00) at sunset on the terrace overlooking the city, gazing at those evocative unmistakable Mexican mountains, watching the lights come on. The hotel and grounds are intimate and cozy. Most of the dishes on the menu lean towards international instead of Mexican (unfortunately). Afterwards I wandered around the historic district again - wishing I could have a couple more days here so as to hop over to Patzcuaro (maybe New Year's Eve)
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Old Mar 11th, 2004, 11:02 AM
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DAY 4
My flight back to Mexico City left at 8 am - so I was up 5am. A quick hop and and jump and I was on my way to Huatulco. From the window I noticed the landscape becoming browner and sparser as I head south west. Walking across the tarmac in dewy 85 degrees I retrieved my luggage and hop into a van (90.00) to the Camino Real Zaashila (http://www.caminoreal.com/). My first impression is that everything is very spread out here and some form of transportation other than one's feet would have to be used. The Camino Real Zaashila is located on Tongolunda Bay - it is one of only 2 non- inclusives, the other being the Quinta Real. The Zaashila grounds are beautifully lush, bougainvillea everywhere, palm trees, and birds - soft, powdery tannish beach - stylish architecture. I had a standard room, with ocean view, for $169 a night, which included breakfast. The room struck me as a bit institutional resort - tired tropical print bed spread and curtains, mismatched furniture - great bathroom though. The deluxe rooms have private plunge pools. The pool - one of the most beautiful I've ever seen - is free form with a wade in edge, chaise lounges built along the pool's edge, just barely in the water - nice touch. After unpacking and applying lots of sun block - the sun is very strong and I was pasty white. On one one end of the property, which has a great overall view of Tongolunda Bay, is the restaurant, Club de Playa, with an infinity pool, which serves lunch, a mixture of Huatulco seafood and American standards such as hamburger and chicken fingers. I hung out there for the afternoon - having some ceviche, quesadillas, oxaqueno tamales and mezcal - laying out for 15 minutes then retreating to the shade or going for a dip - just trying to settle in, relax, slow down. There is no ATM on the hotel grounds (they do have currency exchange though) so I took a taxi into La Crucecita. La Crucecita was built by Fonatur - a concrete block, charmless, town with lots of tourist shops selling tacky tourist stuff. Really not much to see - I sat in the zocalo for a while, the birds making a delightful racket. I also stepped into the church to see the mural on the ceiling. A cab back to the hotel cost only 25.00 compared to the car service from the hotel to La Crucecita which was 40.00. I had dinner at the hotel's restaurant, Chez Benni - a mixture of Oaxacan and French. One sits under huge ocher arches, looking out towards the Pacific, past swaying palm trees, a guitar player in the background. I had lobster quesadilla with pineapple pico de gallo, red snapper with roasted banana on a banana and mango sauce, crepes with Oaxacan chocolate and bananas, and a bottle of Domeq white - prices were very reasonable and in comparison to other restaurants in the area about the same. Late evening was spent swaying in a hammock along the edge of the beach - sipping mezcal.

DAY 5
I was awoken around 6 am by the person in the next room stomping back and forth to the bathroom, and back and forth and back and forth - the rooms do not have carpets (probably because it's a beach resort) unfortunately. The positive note is I got up early for breakfast - great buffet - you can also order various Mexican and American dishes. I had huitlacoche, nopales, calabaza and chapalines quesadillas and Oaxacan hot chocolate , assorted fruit with lots of fresh squeezed lime. I then grab my towel (you can also check out beach towels from the hotel) and laid out, having a small lunch at the Club de Playa . I found it very easy to stay within the resort - which is both a good and bad thing (more about that later) For dinner, I went into La Crucecita and had dinner at Sabor de Oaxaca then meandered around. High season for Huatulco is in April surprisingly - restaurants and bars weren't overly crowded or thronged. I turned in early because i had been awoken so early.
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Old Mar 11th, 2004, 11:03 AM
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DAY 6
Once again I was awoken by my next door neighbor - men have the tendency to walk on their heels ( take note) After breakfast I grab a towel and found what I thought was an available palapa - I had noticed there were hotel beach towels on all the lounge chairs and was under the impression that the hotel distributed towels on the lounges in the morning for the guests - a couple lounge chairs with books and magazines, were obviously claimed. (Seems as if people do get up early and stake claims to the palapas then go back to their room - well, my attitude is, if you're not using it, you lose it. - I wound up squatting under a palapa someone else had claimed earlier but wasn't using - once again, if you're not using it, you lose it, as far as I'm concerned) For a majority of the day I hung out under the palapa, going for a swims in the Pacific, drinking mezcal, a gentle warm breeze, the sun glittering off the water. A couple and their 2 children - who had laid claim to the palapa I was sitting under finally came out to the beach around 1 pm - looked somewhat perplexed by my presence - sheepishly grabbed the towels on the other lounge chair under the palapa ( hey, I'm not greedy - I can share) and retreated to the pool. I didn't realize my "faux pax" until later but by then I had had enough mezcal that i wasn't concerned. The Camino Real definitely has the best beach on Tangolunda Bay. I was approached by locals selling all-day tours of the Bays, which included fishing and snorkeling, etc - all for $100 US - a little bit too much for me - plus I didn't want to be out in the sun that long. Feeling the need to get out from the resort I went to Santa Cruz for a late lunch - this is where the cruise ships dock. I had lunch at Ve El Mar, which literally is at the waters edge - the waves maybe 10 feet away. I don't know what it was about this place - but this was a sweet spot for me - somehow more real, authentic, not as controlled as the resort. Started with a grande mix seafood cocktail (90.00), served in a 1950 soda glass - then a whole grilled pescdo (100.00) - a couple mezcals (45.00) - a really simple pleasant meal. At dusk I walked around Santa Cruz - not really much to look at but, I think, better than La Crucecita, not as desperate or depressing. I did watch a procession of locals going to church, singing and carrying banners - their plaintive voices rising and falling- which was very touching and moving. For dinner I went to Las Cupulas at the Quinta Real (http://www.quintareal.com/english/huatindex.htm) The Quinta Real has only 28 rooms (compared to the Camino Real. which has 130) - beautifully designed and landscaped - if i come back to Huatulco alone, I'll stay here next time - very intimate, really personal service and attention. The view from the terrace is spectacular - I would recommend having sunset cocktails here. Dinner was well prepared - I started with a sea bass and octopus ceviche with cactus salad in a soya and habenero vinaigrette (105.00). Then had chilies stuffed with cheese and grasshoppers on a red and green sauce (60.00). For my main dish, mahi mahi with a lime and fresh vanilla sauce (150.00). For dessert, crisp apple and walnut tamalito with guanbaya sherbert (55.00). A very elegant and assured dinner.

DAY 7
I decided to go to Maguey Beach for the day - the car service from the hotel and back was 150.00 (grumble, grumble - this is what I dislike about resorts) Maguey beach is about a 20 minute ride from the hotel - there are no hotels, just a few makeshift restaurants lining the shore. I was met by Oscar at the drop off point - who cajoled me to come to his restaurant, Ale Breger Del Mar. His restaurant was further down from the center of the beach, which appealed to me. He set me up with an umbrella and lounge chair - the water 10 feet away. Maguey Bay is very calm, clear water, sandy bottom - seems to be a local favorite. I started off with mezcal (side note - back in Morelia, I learned that the margarita is considered a women's drink and men do not drink margaritas - well, to say the least, I was extremely conflicted the rest of my trip - a succumbed to social pressure and drank tequila / mezcal on the rocks. Ordering mezcal in Huatulco invariably got me a raised eyebrow, a small grin and a nod of approval. I personally like the flavor of mezcal better than tequila - less biting) I started with a small mixed seafood ceviche (100.00) - very simple, clean distinct flavors. I decide to try the Hawoi(?) pineapple - a pineapple stuffed with jumbo shrimp wrapped in bacon, roasted slices of poblano and pineapple, drizzled with a cream sauce and a sprinkle of fresh corn and cilantro (250.00). This was a very rich dish but fell a bit flat for me. This was my most expensive meal in Huatulco, of course the 5 mezcals added to the bill. I skipped dinner and turned in early.
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Old Mar 11th, 2004, 11:03 AM
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DAY 8
Sat under a palapa all day - drinking white wine, ordered lobster and bought oysters from locals (15 for 200.00). I was surprised to find the price of lobster at some beach side restaurants to be around 600.00. At the Camino Real, a small lobster was 280.00. What made this day so enjoyable was how ensconced I felt underneath the palapa. Sand had been heavily deposited at the base so one had to stoop to get under this palapa - thus I was always in shade - the Pacific a stone's throw away, the occasional bird crying, a gentle constant breeze, the sun sparkling off the water, the sound of the surf. I felt so removed from my NYC life - the remoteness of Huatulco made me feel a million miles away - which was the main reason why i came to Huatulco. Sunset was spent relaxing on one of the chaise lounge chairs in the pool - the sky and palm trees reflected in the pool's water. For dinner I went to Dona Celia, in Santa Cruz, along the water's edge, beneath a starry sky - a moist evening breeze. Started with a shrimp and octopus cocktail, once again served in a large parfait glass, then had lobster a la Dona - which was nicely seasoned but not extraordinary. Coming back to the hotel I heard the loud boom-boom of dance music - seems as if there was a wedding party going on at the Club de Playa - and found out from the from desk, until 1AM - it was only 9 pm. I decided to have dessert at Chez Binni - but the repetitious boom-boom and covers of Village People songs and Gloria Gaynor sent me over the edge. I have never encountered such disregard for guests - if i had known there was a wedding tonight I would have hung out in Santa Cruz and La Crucecita - and when I expressed my displeasure to the night manager, he couldn't have cared a less. To say the least - I have reservation about returning to this Camino Real. The only bright spot to this were the loud fireworks and then the mariachi band on the beach playing for the wedding party. It was a Saturday night - I have no problems with noise up to a certain hour - but i felt ambushed by the action of the Camino Real. (I sent a follow up email to the hotel but have not received a reply)

DAY 9
My flight didn't leave until 3:25 and the hotel allowed me to check out late - I took a car service at 2. For the morning and early afternoon - I hung out at the Club de Playa - working on my tan, spending my extras pesos on oysters, wine and mezcal. The flight back was uneventful - connecting in Mexico City, my flight filled up with himbos and bimbos coming from Cancun and Los Cabos: "hey dude, I was sooooo wasted last night....oh this food is disgusting, oh it's so hot in here, don't touch me, oh this food is disgusting". To say the least I was happy to see Newark.
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Old Mar 11th, 2004, 11:03 AM
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After thoughts:
weather: weather.com and weatherunderground.com had predicted rain/scattered rain for the three days I was to be in Morelia - let's not over look the previous 30 days had been partly sunny to sunny, and the following 5 days after I left Morelia were to be partly sunny to sunny. Both web sites were completely wrong (yet when I went to Istanbul, were fairly accurate) - every day was perfect, during the day a high of about 75, blue skies with an occasional clouds, no rain - at night, it got chilly, lower 50s, upper 40s. Huatulco was 88 during the day, 80 at night - there was always a breeze. Two days were partly cloudy but the rest were clear blue skies.

I'm still unsure about resorts - there kinda strange places- I'm not sure I like being so insulated form the outside world, yet that is the point of a resort. Yet even though Zaashila was beautiful and overall very good, I still couldn't fully relinquish / relax. The hotel grounds are beautifully lush - great beach - good to excellent food - one of the most beautiful pools I've ever seen - personable staff but still something didn't feel right. Maybe if I had been with friends. I would like to see Huatulco (and Oaxaca) at the end of the rainy season - when everything is green. In retrospect - I think I may have done Huatulco first, fewer days - and then Morelia - I was really taken with Morelia - it surpassed my expectation ten fold, a real delight. I understand there are hot spring spas in Michoacan plus there Patzcuaro - so much to see...

Next year I'm going to Antigua, Guatemala and Lake Atitlan - I want more green vegetation and volcanoes.

Any questions or comments, feel free to ask....
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Old Mar 11th, 2004, 01:22 PM
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Thanks so much for your trip report, I enjoyed reading it. I'm putting Morelia on my list. Was the airfare from Mexico City to Morelia very much? Could you have taken a bus?

You should stop in Mexico City some time, it is an incredible place. We were there in mid February (Mexico City) and noted the same lack of accuracy in the weather forecast and the actual weather, which was beautiful and bright.
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Old Mar 11th, 2004, 03:48 PM
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Great report - I loved reading it. It's got me hungry! I agree with your comments on the butterflies - it was a wonderful experience. Plus I remember the food in Morelia - there are some really nice restaurants there.

Marilyn, yes, you can take a bus from Mexico City to Morelia. We did that a couple of years ago. I think it was maybe 4 or 5 hours, and an easy trip.
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