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Mexico City -- without anxiety?

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My partner and I spend 6 days in Mexico City in Nov last year.

I absolutely loved it. It was so dynamic, so cool, so ancient, so stylish, so delicious. We were there over Dia de Los Muertos and ate in many excellent restaurants, including Izote and Contramar.

I speak a fair amount of Spanish, but my partner, who is a big white dude, doesn't. We only took taxis called by our hotel or the restaurant we were visiting, otherwise I mostly walked and once or twice took the bus (subway was too crowded for me). We felt scared a lot of the time.

I would really love to go back for a longer stay, but don't know where to start to get a better handle on how to avoid trouble.

If anyone has suggestions about neighborhoods, taxi strategies, guides, etc. Or any other personal insight on how to travel in Mexico City safely, they would be much appreciated.

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