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Old Nov 11th, 2009, 11:33 AM
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Help with Mexico Itinerary

We are a well travelled couple with an 11 year old son. This is our first trip to central and southern Mexico. We were thinking of a trip in mid december for about 12 days. We would like to visit Mexico city and surrounding areas, (monarch butterfulies sanctuary); san miguel de allende and guanajuato; maybe oaxaca, merida in the maya riviera and end the trip at a resort by the beach - cozumel or playa del carmen.

Is this too ambitious? what are the must sees around mexico city, or around any of the other cities I mentioned? Any suggestions on how long to spend in each place? We are open to suggestions on adding towns that are not to be missed.

Thanks
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Old Nov 11th, 2009, 12:48 PM
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Imo that's WAY too much, even if you weren't traveling with a child. Traveling in Latin America is on a whole different time frame planet than the US and Europe - plan for everything to take at least twice as long as you'd expect, for the connections to rarely flow smoothly, and to have some of your reservations met with blank stares - all part of the charm.

I like to stay at least 3 nights in a spot and often settle on a base for a week or more and adventure out from there. I also try to limit travel distances between bases to 5 or 6 hours; the transition days will still be much more tiring than you'd expect but at least you can relax in the evening once you arrive. 3 nights gives you 2 full days to explore - a minimum in my book. You've listed so many places you'd only have 2 nights each with only 1 day to explore and basically no time to relax and enjoy the culture, the natural beauty, the food, and each other.

I have 4 weeks to spend in Mexico this summer and here's our plan:
:: 3 nights in Valladolid to enjoy a colonial city, swim in the cenotes, and visit area ruins;
:: 3 nights in San Felipe on the north coast of the Yucatan so my husband can enjoy a day of tarpon fishing and we can visit the flamingo reserves;
:: a week on blue water - thinking maybe Isla Mujeres but haven't decided for sure; my husband will fly home then and I'll...
:: fly to Chiapas, live with a host family, and study Spanish for 2 weeks.

Can't wait!! The 1st 2 weeks would work for you or you could pick another chunk of your itinerary to focus on. I hope you eventually get back to see them all. Have a great trip, whatever you decide, and be sure to tell us all about it.
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Old Nov 11th, 2009, 05:25 PM
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i agree, 3 nights minimum in each place to really enjoy yourselves.
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Old Nov 11th, 2009, 06:36 PM
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Agree with above. Way too much for 12 days. A nice trip that I've done in the time you have is Mexico City, Morelia (for butterflies and a lovely city), and San Miguel. Using Morelia as a base you can take a long day trip to see the monarchs, another shorter day trip to Patzcuaro and have a day in Morelia. And then San Miguel. You could base in San Miguel and take a day trip over to Guanajuato or vice versa, or split your few days in that area between them. You'll need and want a few day in Mexico City on either or both ends of the trip. We took a 5? hour lux bus from Mex City to Morelia -very comfortable, some lovely scenery. We ended up having someone drive us from Morelia to San Miguel (there were 4 of us). San Miguel to Mex City is another comfortable 4 hr bus ride.

Another trip could be Mexico City/Oaxaca or Mexico City/Yucatan.
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Old Nov 12th, 2009, 06:03 AM
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Joining the others to observe that you really have about three distinct trips proposed. Mexico City is always always worth at least three full days (but note that some people are put off by the crowds and pollution). You'll want to see the Zocalo, Cathedral, National Palace, Templo Mayor, Anthropology Museum, take a day trip to Teotihuacan, visit some markets and parks, track down Rivera murals -- believe me, you won't be bored.

MC with Guanajuato, SMA and Queretaro might make a good trip. Guanajuato is the most beautiful city I've visited in Mexico, but I think two and a half days will give you enough time to see it all and hang out a bit. Unfortunately, I haven't made it yet to Morelia or Patzcuero.

MC with Oaxaca, where in addition to the colonial city itself there is Monte Alban and the other Zapotec and Mixtec sites, as well as indigenous villages to see, would be another great pairing. Take the bus and perhaps stop off in Puebla for a day or two.

The Yucatan is remote and probably deserves your full time anyway. Merida, Uxmal and Puuc cities will take at least four days, Chichen Itza another day. Add in your beach days and trips to Ek Balam, Tulum or Coba and you can see you've run out of time.

It is not easy to choose but I hope this helps.
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Old Nov 12th, 2009, 02:53 PM
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Ditto - way too many places in a short time. I've been to Mexico probably 17 times and there's so much to see.
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Old Nov 13th, 2009, 05:53 AM
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I think a really nice trip would be 4 days in Mexico City, 4 days in Oaxaca, and then 4 days on the beach in Puerto Escondido. Or 4 days in Mexico City, 4 days in and around Merida, and then 4 days at Playa del Carmen.

The Mexican bus system is great, but distances can be really long. I don't think an 11 yo would enjoy being on a bus for 8 hours. So I would suggest flying from Mexico City to Oaxaca or Merida.

I love Guanajuato, but getting to the beach from there is not really logical, as it almost certainly requires a connection in Mexico City. That said, I have done it exactly as described and was fine.
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Old Nov 13th, 2009, 06:21 AM
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robertino --

Was wondering what had happened to you and the other usual suspects on Mexican questions.

FYI -- the bus from MC to Oax takes six hours and passes through some beautiful country -- forest, mountains and volcanoes, and desert. Stopping at Puebla breaks it into a two hour and a four hour leg.
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Old Nov 13th, 2009, 09:35 AM
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Hi Fra -

Took a bit of a break.

The suggestion of stopping in Puebla is a great one. Breaks up the trip, adds another interesting city. Haven't been to Puebla yet but looks good.
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Old Nov 13th, 2009, 07:31 PM
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I just returned from Puebla and highly recommend it. Three in our group were seasoned Mexico travlers, four of them novices to Mexico and it satisfied all of our expectations/anxieties. Wonderful, safe town with great food as well as historic sites. Enjoyed Cholula as well. Love the mole!!
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Old Nov 14th, 2009, 07:24 AM
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Way too much- how about Oaxaca City and the surrounding valleys and maybe a trip to Huatulco for the beach.
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Old Nov 14th, 2009, 05:27 PM
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It's hardly worth chiming in at this point, but ............ doing your itinerary in 12 days is impossible, and if you somehow managed it, wouldn't be any fun.

About the six hours between Mexico City & Oaxaca. Mexico City has grown so much that the trip now takes longer. The last time I took it -- 3 or 4 years ago -- it was raining and I thought we'd never see the city limits. So, that would be another good reason to stop in Puebla.

I've traveled all over Mexico on buses numerous times and have come to the firm conclusion that no stint on a bus should last more than six hours.
If you keep it to six or below, you will arrive rested and in a good mood. Ideally, you could arrive everywhere when it was still daylight.

Robertino is SO right about flying if you want to go to the Yucatán. The bus ride from Oaxaca to Mérida is 24 hours one way.
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Old Nov 17th, 2009, 12:22 PM
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Thanks everyone for your generous input. I was down with the flu and did not have a chance to check responses earlier. Based on your suggestions, here is what we are planning to do:

Arrive and stay in Mexico city for 3 full days and half and sight see city and some surrounding towns like Valle de Bravo.

Fly or bus to Morelia from Mexico City and stay there 2 full days (one day to see the butterfly sanctuary).

Drive to San Miguel de Allen and stay there 3 days (visit Guanajuato).

Fly from this region to Merida. Planning to stay in Merida 2 full days. We want to spend the last three days of 2009 by Maya riviera, cancun, playa del Carmen or Isla Mujera (depending on where we can find accomodation which is in short supply at this time). We plan to fly back to LA from Cancun.

Does anyone know what would be the best way to go from Merida to Cancun and how far are these location from each other?

Finally, in Mexico City, which is the best location to stay. St. Regis has some good rates but unsure whether it is central. Thanks for your input.
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Old Nov 17th, 2009, 09:34 PM
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4 hours by 1st class bus between Mérida and Cancun - that's what I'd do. For what it's worth that's still a heck of a lot of moving around imo.

Also, either your trip has grown by 5 or 6 days or you're counting full days differently than most of us. For me 2 nights = 1 full day, 4 nights = 3 full days since the transition days will need to be pretty much dedicated to moving, getting tired, and recovering a bit. I know it's hard to leave things out but I think you'll love Mexico and want to return anyway - maybe you should save a few stops for another trip. My suggestion would be to pick just 1 (or maybe 2) stops in addition to Mexico City and the beach at the end, not 3 or 4. Just my 2 peso's worth...
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Old Nov 18th, 2009, 11:16 AM
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Hi Mon -

You still have 5 different locations in 12 days. Agree with hopefulist - too much. I just don't think you're going to have time to enjoy yourself moving at such a fast pace.

Depending on your interests, I would choose either Mexico City and the Yucatan, including a beach there, OR Mexico City, Camino Real cities (Queretaro, San Miguel, and/or Guanajuato), and then fly to your beach of choice. If you're really into ruins (great for kids), then the Yucatan of course makes sense. If you're into extremely beautiful historic cities, then Queretaro and especially Guanajuato (I am in a distinct minority re: San Miguel - I couldn't wait to get out of there).

Also keep in mind that Mexico City and Guanajuato, etc are at about 6000 feet above sea level and will be pretty cool in December. No such concerns in the Yucatan.

The 1 1/2 hour drive from Merida to Chichen Itza is fascinating. Take the old, slower road though Mayan villages. Beware of topes though! Stop overnight at Chichen Itza (I loved the Hacienda Chichen but the Dolores Alba might be more child-friendly) and beat the crowds in the morning. Then continue to Cancun / Riviera Maya, with maybe a stop in Valladolid, for your beach segment.

For Mexico City, I like to stay in the Zona Rosa because I find it convenient to everything I want to do. Great restaurant called La Fonda del Refugio. A couple of blocks to the subway, for Centro, the Archaeological Museum, etc. A quick walk to Condesa or Roma. Chapultepec is fairly close by. Other people dislike the Zona Rosa. So be it.

Agree with Fra's list of things to do in Mexico City, but will add the Flag Ceremony at about 5pm in the zocalo. A couple of hundred military cadets (?) march out of the National Palace and ceremoniously and at times unceremoniously take down what may be the world's largest flag.

You're going to have a great trip. Just remember that you will be back.
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Old Nov 19th, 2009, 10:48 AM
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Thank you hopefullist and Robertino. Our trip is now 13 days long and I think we are going to be ok based on the suggestions made. Robertino, I think the ST. Regis is in the Zona Rosa and we will book that. Thanks for the restaurant suggestion. Any other must sees in and around Mexico city would be appreciated.
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Old Nov 19th, 2009, 03:01 PM
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5 bases in 13 days sounds like a nightmare to me but as they say, "One man's basement is another man's floor". I hope your trip is everything you want it to be.
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Old Nov 19th, 2009, 05:30 PM
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Oops - that was supposed to be "One man's CEILING is another man's floor".
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Old Nov 19th, 2009, 08:29 PM
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monsoon, the St. Regis is a great hotel with a great location, but it is not in the Zona Rosa--which is not a bad thing. The Zona Rosa itself is pretty scruffy nowadays. My favorite museum is the Museo de arte popular, which is in the centro. It has wonderful folk art of all kinds. Good places to eat are Contramar in Roma for seafood (open only for lunch, unless things have changed recently), El Bajio for traditional Mexican (various locations--some say the one in Polanco is best--I have eaten only at the one on Reforma), and Patricia Quintana's Izote (my very favorite) in Polanco. We also really like San Angel Inn. There are lots of things to do in Mexico City. What are your specific interests?
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Old Nov 24th, 2009, 07:21 AM
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Not sure if you realize, but you've actually listed about 20 days worth of activities. You won't be able to "travel" from one destination to another and also have 2 or 3 "full" days in that destination. Travel in Mexico IS a "full day" by the time you pack, travel, check-in -- it will be much to late in any day to have a tour, so that day will be pretty much dedicated to just getting settled, making arrangements, and walking around. Anything more ambitious is a real stretch.

<i>Arrive and stay in Mexico city (+1 day) for 3 full days and half (+3.5 days) and sight see city and some surrounding towns like Valle de Bravo.

Fly or bus to Morelia from Mexico City (+1 day) and stay there 2 full days (one day to see the butterfly sanctuary)(+2 days).

Drive to San Miguel de Allen (+1 day) and stay there 3 days (visit Guanajuato). (+3 days)

Fly from this region to Merida. (+1 day) Planning to stay in Merida 2 full days. (+2 days) We want to spend the last three days of 2009 by Maya riviera, cancun, playa del Carmen or Isla Mujera (depending on where we can find accomodation which is in short supply at this time).(+1 day travel to Cancun etc. + 3 days stay) We plan to fly back to LA from Cancun. (+1 day to fly home)</i>
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