PSGMARTINO

We will be traveling to Central Mexico in November for my nephews wedding.

He will be getting married in Guanajuato. I have a few questions about traveling to Mexico.

There have been many cautions about traveling to Mexico over the past few years. First, is this area safe? Anything we should worry about or avoid?

My husband and I are thinking of flying into Guanajuato Intl Airport (BJX) and going to San Miguel de Allende for the first part of the trip. Is the route difficult, and is having a car a good idea or bad? I was thinking that we wouldn't want a car, but there do seem do be a few day trips from SMA that I would like - Dolores HIdalgo for one. Are there buses to take, or is a car necessary?

After a few days in SMA we will go to GTO where we are renting a house and our kids will join us to attend the wedding. I've heard that a car is not necessary in GTO and that cabs are reasonable. True?

The house we are considering renting is near the Alhondiga and Plazuela San Fernando. Would that be a good location or is there a better location for easy access to restaurants, museums, shopping etc?

Finally - the water. I am assuming that we will not drink the tap water but someone mentioned to avoid any fresh/raw fruits and vegetables that do not have skins or peels. Is that really necessary? What about ice?

Thanks for your help!

Stewbear

Forget the car as you seem new to Mexico & it really is not necessary.
A Airport cab to SMA is best (only) way to get there. It's central district is compact & very walk able. It has lovely architecture (it's Cathedral is fabulous) , & lots to see if a bit Americanized.
GTO is a true delight IMO. I just finished my third visit this time for 2 months wishing it was longer.
A most lovely city with excellent museums, good cafes, very very walk able & quite safe. It is my favorite place in the country after 30 years of Mexican travel.
Cars are real drag there & a cab to any where in tow are 45 peso or less. Under $3 US
Be sure to spend a day in Leon at the huge leather market shops. This is my wifes favorite places to shop in this world. Leather goods of every type. Shoes, boots, jackets, saddles at low prices. It is but a hour bus trip from GTO.
A very nice zoo also if you like them.
A side trip to Dolores Hidalgo with it's busy pottery/tile market, a most lovely town square with ice cream vendors on every corner. A hour bus ride from GTO through lovely scenery.

PSGMARTINO

Thank you Stewbear. My nephew's fiance is from Leon and I've heard about the leather markets, so that is definitely on my list. Glad to know we don't need a car.

I was dividing my time 4 nights in SMA and 4 in GTO. One of those days in GTO would be the wedding. Do you think I should take from SMA and add to GTO? Sounds like you prefer it.

Any other suggestions on places to visit while there? Great restaurants? My husband is very much into wine - are there any good wines from Mexico? Sorry if that sounds like a stupid question, but I honestly don't know.

Thanks!

Stewbear

Mexico is not known for it's wine. I am a non drinker but my wife normally orders Chilean wine while there.Yes I would add a day Guanajuato myself.
Eating: The Cafe Valadez on the Jardin is one of our favorites Their "set" 4 course menu at 135 pesos is a real bargain & a great feast.
The Mixtec (SP?) near The Diego Rivera's boyhood home is a wonderful higher end place. Possibly the best in town.
The Rivera home it's self is a nice museum with a number of his paintings. My favorites are are two nude paintings of his wife Fridia & his mistress side by side. One most wonder how each would feel about the placement!

Stewbear

PS I rent an apartment for 2 months & always soak my fruits/veggies in the commercial soak Microdyne found at any grocery store.
I drink only bottle water & use the same to make coffee/ice tea
Ice in Restaurants is fine.
GTO is a most prosperous city with few beggars & even fewer street people. I have never felt in any danger there.

PSGMARTINO

Great information Stewbear...

Would you be comfortable eating a salad in a restaurant?

baldone

Yes, the area is very safe but take the same precautions you would anywhere else, that is don't wander around after dark in isolated areas.
Don't take a cab from BJX to San Miguel. Rather, use a private shuttle such as Bajiogo. Their drivers know San Miguel, (and thus your hotel) while a taxista from the airport would not. $29 PP and you can reserve online.
I probably wouldn't rent a car either, but understand why you might want to.
For day trips from SMA, I'd probably forego Dolores in favor of Queretaro and Mineral De Pozos. QRO being some 45 minutes from SMA, and easily accessible by bus or taxi, has one of Mexico's largest colonial centers. Pozos is a semi-restored mining ghost town, couple of galleries and a nice restaurant at Posada de Las Minas. But for Pozos you'd probably need a driver. Google it to see if it interests you, and ask your hotel about a driver. Good for photos. Dolores is OK, but their very average pottery is available everywhere in SMA. As is the ice cream. For pottery, instead hire a taxi while in GTO and go to Santa Rosa, about 15 minutes from centro. Their Mayolica pottery is far superior to that of Dolores, which really isn't true Talavera anyway. But if you do go, D'Monica's Italian restaurant is a must. At one time, it was #1 on TA in all of Mexico, however they arrive at that. Dolores seems to be a popular option from SMA, but mostly because it's close. I think Comonfort's and Celaya's centros are more appealing, and just as accessible.
Are there good wines in Mexico? Yes. Those from Baja in the Valle de Guadalupe and Parras can be good. La Europea just down from Starbucks (in sma) has a good selection as does Carne y Vino on Ancha de San Antonio. Mega carries La Cetto, another popular Mexican label, but popular doesn't necessarily translate to good.
Watertick to bottled. SMA restaurants will serve purified, and their ice will be as well. Same with fruits and veggies in the better restaurants. We eat out several times a week and never have problems. If for some reason you buy fruits/veggies that aren't packaged, then wash with Bacdyne.
I think you'll find far better and more restaurants in SMA than GTO. I can give some rec's if you post what you like. But this part of Mexico is not known for unique foods like Oaxaca, Puebla, and the Yucatan. But there's plenty of good eats.
I understand why stew sees SMA as Americanized, but the fact is that on weekend nights you'll see nary a gringo in the jardin as the town can be overrun by Mexican tourists,(as well as mariachis) from DF in particular. Interestingly, a recent article in Correo pointed out that Guanajuato had twice the number of tourists during a recent high season.
If/when you go to the leather district in Leon iMexico ral avoid the mall across from McDonalds (plaza de zapatos ?) and the stores on the same street as the bus station. Our favorite is a small shop, D'ame on 103 Taxco. Fine jackets made of peliguey or hairsheep for under $100. The only thing is that as a small shop the variety on hand may lack, but they can custom make.
This part of Mexico can also be cool in November, so pack accordingly, or plan for good shawl/sweater/jacket shopping. Cool nights, but sunny, warm days. Usually, LOL.

baldone

Excuse my typos. Hard typing on a tablet.

PSGMARTINO

Thanks Baldone - so much good information. We were interested in Dolores Hidalgo for the pottery, so I will check out your recommendation for Santa Rosa.

Can you clarify one comment?

Dolores seems to be a popular option from SMA, but mostly because it's close. I think Comonfort's and Celaya's centros are more appealing, and just as accessible.

Are Comonfort and Celaya towns in Mexico or are they plazas in Queretaro and Mineral De Pozos, which you recommend in lieu of Dolores Hidalgo?

Also, I've seen many people reference DF - what does that stand for?

As for restaurants, we'd love recommendations. We like all kinds of food, and love nice ambiance maybe outdoor seating with views.

And we'll look for wines from the areas that you suggest!!

baldone

DF is kinda generic for Mexico City, it means Distrito Federal, (Federal District) or DF for short, not unlike DC as in Washington.
Comonfort and Celaya are 2 towns near San Miguel, the former smaller, and the latter larger and quite industrialized. They are not known as tourist towns, but have lovely, bustling main plazas. But I mention them as a comparison to Dolores, which is pleasant enough, but if it weren't for the pottery, there is little to see or do, unless you're a real Mexican history buff. Most of the better pottery/tile shops are not downtown, but on the highway leading in to DH from San Miguel. It's just that with only 4 days or so, I don't think DH is worth the effort.
Favorite restaurants in SMA would be:
Posadita, rooftop dining right behind the Parroquia. Best to get reservations. They have one kinda private table where you can watch the sunset. Closed Wednesdays, recommend reservations.
Cocktails/sunset @ Rosewood hotel. The rooftop bar does have tapas, but kinda pricey.
Hecho en Mexico, really good live music on Fri & Sat., google Pedro Cartas. Good reasonably priced menu. One of the better tortilla soups, open courtyard dining. Reservations if you go for the music.
La Parroquia, good breakfasts, small courtyard setting.
Posada Carmina, lovely hotel courtyard good form breakfasts.
La Azotea, rooftop bar above Pueblo Viejo (which is good too) famous for their Jicama tacos. Very busy on the weekends.
La Mezcaleria, pepper infused cilantro, cucmber, & mezcal margaritas.

Stewbear

I personally really enjoy a day to Dolores mostly for the ride & the lovely plaza. The Museo also is of great interest to myself. As a fairly long visitor when I am at GTO it is a nice break for me.
Queretaro is indeed a great city, but as your time is short I would pass this time. We spent but 3 days there this year but will be back for a longer visit.
While GTO does get it's share of tourist many are Mexican, European & Canada/US. It has been my experience that many of the later are day trippers, although I most definitely saw more of us (Gringos) this year then in previous years.
Still not a lot of English heard except in my case from collage students who for what ever reason approach me to practice their English. Most girls in pairs. Suspect being a old fart makes me look safe. LOL

emd3

I have had wines from all over Mexico, as I spend a lot of time in all different areas of MX and have a residence in Playa del Carmen.

I love the country. But the wines are really not good. Like Stewbear's wife, I drink South American wines when in MX, from Chile or Argentina.

Beers are a different matter. MX produces excellent beers.

I have been to SMA and Guanajuato but not in a few yrs. Baldone and Stewbear are excellent sources of info on those places.

PSGMARTINO

Thanks to everyone for your input. I am getting excited now thinking of what we can do. Mexico was never really on my radar.

Baldone, thanks for the restaurant suggestions in SMA. I'm from California so we have a great amount of Mexican food here. Is it fairly similar or is there something unique to that part of Mexico that we should try?

Stewbear, thanks for the restaurant suggestions in GTO. Your comment that this is your favorite city in Mexico after many visits has reassured me that this will be a good trip. I speak a little Spanish - can understand more than I can speak. I spent two years in Peru as a child and at one point was fluent but that was many years ago. I thought I'd have a decent time with the language in Barcelona, but found it was very different.



Thanks so much!

emd3

A friend of mine (who is married to our realtor) has a very good blog about her life in Mexico, as she lives there with her husband and two children, and they travel around the country a lot. They took a trip to Guanajuato last year and posted extensively on it, esp. about the restaurants they discovered, along with details and pics. And some side trips, things they did in the city, etc. She posts here on fodors also but I have not seen her here in awhile.

This page of their blog has all her postings from that trip. I thought the restaurant sections might be particularly helpful to you.

http://www.buyplaya.com/blogs/rob_ki...e/2014/04.aspx

PSGMARTINO

Thank you emd3! I will definitely check that out!

PSGMARTINO

emd3 - what an awesome and perfect blog to get us excited for Guanajuato. Thanks so much for sharing. I've sent it around to my family to help them get excited for the trip as well!!! It's exactly the kind of information that I've been looking for!

baldone

PSG, while there really are no signature dishes (such as moles etc.) found in this part of Mexico (other than regional enchiladas) that can be a good thing, as you will find recipes from all over Mexico, some done very well, some not so much. Burgers and steaks are popular here, with quite good grass fed beef from Sonora being common. The chilangos love steak. We buy our beef from a local organic grower. Carnitas, gorditas, tamales, and empanandas are popular street foods.
Here is a good food blog from a Canadian who also sees himself as somewhat of a oenophile: http://dondayinsma.com/
Stew and I often disagree, but we both agree that Q is a great city. Now, the disagree: if you can find the time, go. It makes little sense not to visit one of Mexico's finest colonial cities when you're only 45 minutes away, even if it's only for 4-5 hours. We often do day trips when we do our big box store shopping. But one reason I mentioned it is that QRO has quite a different restaurant scene than San Miguel or GTO. There are a couple places that feature Oaxacan cuisine, Tikua Sur (#1 on TA) and Maria y Su Bici.
And I have to agree/disagree a little with emd. I do agree that Mexico's mass-marketed beers are better than their US counterparts. But I really miss the US microbrews that were pretty ubiquitous; available in any 7-11. While there are good Mexican craft beers available they are expensive and hard to find so I do find myself drinking more wine, primarily from the Cono Sur as well. And while I'm no oenophile, adequate Mexican wines can be found: http://buyingguide.winemag.com/regions/mexico

jpie

My husband and I served in the Peace Corps in Mexico a year or so back and we were the first volunteers serving in GTO at a science and mathematics center. We are from CA and Seattle mostly and my husband is French, so we are pretty big foodies. After 2 years in GTO, all the suggestions here are right on IMO. I just wanted to add a couple of things.

One of the "big deal" restaurants in GTO is called Las Mercedes. It is in a house a little away from the center-easiest to take a cab there.

http://www.guanajuatoesparati.com/lasmercedes/

They take reservations and you will need them because they are quite small. The owner is a food historian and focuses on regional moles and salsas in particular. The menu is small and it doesn't seem to change so that is why we only went a couple of time. Another restaurant that we can recommend is called El Midi: http://elmidibistro.com/

It is owned by a French woman who owned a different place many years ago and just re-opened here. The have a nice roof area where you can take your drinks up if you want and there menu is nice. They were just starting up when we came back to the US but through friends I know they are doing a lot of music nights, brunches, etc.

We also always soaked veggies and fruits in microdyne. Basically you only need to do that for things you know you will eat raw or will eat the peel. So I soaked chiles, tomatoes and cilantro for fresh salsa but didn't need to soak onions for example. And you don't need to soak veggies you will cook. I bought hydroponic lettuce at the grocery so didn't need to soak that but sometimes did anyway. We were generally told to be careful eating at the markets-parasites for sure still exist and you don't want to get any!

There is a woman in GTO who is famous for making mole pastes-usually she has green, yellow and brown (chocolate)available. Her name is María Isabel L. De Bonilla and many of the restaurants use her pastes. She has a "shop" on Juan Valle near a restaurant called Las Musas del Capitolio Calle Juan Valle 19. As you walk up calle Juan Valle towards Postitos (the street with the Diego Rivera Museum) from Benito Juarez, it is on the right.It is tiny-really just a counter-you have to look carefully-you go down a half flight of stairs and there is someone selling mole pastes there. So if you are cooking at home in GTO, give it a try. I always used a slow cooker, added boneless chicken or pork and a Serrano pepper or 2. It is delicious. My favorite was the green, but the chocolate is good too is you like that kind of mole.

Another couple favorites of ours were Delica Mitsu right up a little callejon at the back of the Plazuela San Fernando. I think it is still there-I know they were going to open another even tinier version in SMA, and the owner used to cook at a 4 star restaurant in the Caribbean somewhere. And BTW, if you find their place, walk up that callejon and there are 2 ladies making all sorts of things on an open grill. All our friends tell us they are "clean" and everything is yummy. Usually a long line of students waiting to order. I am not sure Delica is there anymore though. Maybe someone has a more recent update?

We also like Peccato di Gola in Marfil. There is a bus that runs there from town or you can take a cab. Yummy Italian. And it is fun to see Marfil-it is an upscale little "suburb" of GTO.

For something exotic, try Centro Bharati It is vegan and they have really nice salads and such-nice 3 or 4 course lunch options for cheap! It will remind you the most of some of the fresh Californian restaurants.

One last thing, We have had many friends have flights delayed in and out of Leon airport, so you may find it cheaper/easier to go via Mexico City. Now that Southwest took over air trans, you can fly those routes. I don't know where you are coming from in CA, but they now have nonstop from John Wayne to Mexico DF. Once there, you can hop a cab and go to the norte bus station and then it is 3 hours to GTO. I suspect you will want to stick with Leon for this trip but just wanted you to know there is another option. It is also easy and cheap to take the bus from GTO to SMA and back.

Also, when friends joined us in GTO we took the bus to guadalajara and then back to SMA. From there we hired a driver to take us the "long way" to GTO, stopping in Dolores and Santa Rosa. That was a great way to see the colonial stretch and not too expensive. They also offer a shuttle from Mexico city airport to GTO and SMA. Here is a link to one I know friends have used:

http://www.viajessanmiguel.com/reservasENG.php

Have a great trip-after visiting almost all of Mexico, we really like the colonial center a lot. The weather is very similar to southern California and not nearly as humid as other beachy place in Mexico. Also lots of history and GTO itself is really a cool little town. SMA s great too although pricier and more "gringo-fied"

baldone

FWIW, Mexico Norte to GTO is gonna be 4 1/2-5 hours not 3.

jpie

Yep baldone is right-sorry I was mistaken. We took so many bus trips while we were there I totally forgot...