shelleybeach

Two of us are spending a couple of weeks in Mexico in October, attending the Cervantina Festival in Guanajuato, staying a couple of nights in Queretero, and a week or so in MC. Does anybody have an opinion on Cuernavaca? We've never been there and think it might be good for a few days; from there we can bus to the airport in MC.

Fra_Diavolo

I take it then that you are not a fan of Malcolm Lowry's great novel, Under the Volcano, a devotee of which would surely find enough to do in Cuernavaca! However, the city is well worth a visit. The Palace of Cortes has a great Rivera mural, and there are interesting ruins on the outskirts, where the Aztecs were covering an older temple with a new level when the Spanish arrived. So work stopped, and it's still there, frozen in time. It's a lively town with a large student population, including young Americans studying Spanish. The Robert Brady museum is worth a stop.

An excellent side trip that would take about half the day is an excursion to the ruins of Xochicalco (there is a small section in the Anthropology Museum in MC devoted to it). It's little visited. This thread from long ago describes the site and how to get there:

http://www.fodors.com/community/mexi...cuernavaca.cfm

All that said, a lot of people go to Cuernavaca to hang out by the hotel pool and relax for a few days. Not a bad lot in life.

emd3

I have been to Cuernavaca a few times to visit friend studying Spanish there, and all in all, I did not find it so great. There are much nicer and more interesting towns in the same proximity to the DF (suggestion: use the term DF instead of MC--the Mexicans call it the DF, pronounced "Day Efay" with a soft E; it stands for Distrito Federal).

Puebla is much nicer, two hrs by bus from the DF, direct bus from DF airport to Puebla. And direct bus from Puebla CAPO station to the DF airport also. Very convenient.

Taxco is also an interesting and pretty colonial town.

But honestly, forget Cuernavaca and go to Puebla. You won't regret it.

baldone

Tend to agree with emd3. I think I'd add another night in DF and then 2 nights in Puebla. Better food, too.

shelleybeach

Thanks all for your suggestions. Think we will skip Cuernavaca this time and go to Cholula instead. It looks like a much smaller and quieter town than either Cuernavaca or Puebla, and the old pyramid sounds interesting. Puebla might be good for a day trip from Cholula.

Fra Diavolo, I have read "Under the Volcano"--twice! Reading about all that mezcal drinking just made me sleepy! And I sure wouldn't want to get too near the barranca! I am a great admirer of Rivera, so will keep the mural in mind for the next time, as well as Xochicalco.

emd3

If you are intent on staying in Cholula ( which is a suburb of Puebla, you really don't "leave" the city of Puebla to get there, there is no distinct demarcation, you go down a hwy and one street is Puebla, next one you are in Cholula) be sure you are there on market day. It's a good market.

Really better to stay in Puebla and take 20 min bus to Cholula one half day. nothing at all in Cholula besides the church on top of the 2 nd largest UNexcavated pyramid in the world (emphasis on UN) and if you are lucky you can see the volcano from up the top at the church, although I have been there 5 times, all clear days, and have never seen the volcano, it has to do with the wind up there.

No good restaurants in Cholula like Puebla. A few little taco places, that is it. No other sites, and Puebla is full of those. Puebla has an excellent Sunday locals market also, Puebla is wonderful on Sundays, and it has a great artists area and the dulce street, on and on.

And be aware that Cholula ALWAYS has a lot of noisy construction going on around the main church square. All 4 times I have been there, they are treating up streets. Jackhammers, lots of dust. 4 times over 7 yrs. I have no idea why they can not get it over and done with....

PuraAventura

Hi Shelley!

I have to agree with emd3, Puebla is much nicer than Cuernavaca. I love Cuernavaca (it reminds me that old Mexican feeling that you can only get in few places like Acapulco), but for a first visit in Mexico I would recommend Puebla rather than Cuernavaca, firstly because the town center is more attractive, more lively and offers more activities and places to visit (like museums and churches). And the thing with Cuernavaca is that as the city has grown so much in the past 20 years, the beautiful historical center is now surrounded by charmless areas that will perhaps disappoint you. I would then say, stay in Puebla and take one half day to visit Cholula (not the opposite), it will be nicer and you'll have more hotel and restaurant offers.

However, if you still feel it is better to go to 'The City of the Eternal Spring' (as said Veronica), don't miss the Jardin Borda, it is a nice place to sit back! Also you can enjoy being there to continue (about 2 hours away) to Taxco de Alarcon, the silver town of Mexico! This is probably my favourite destination in whole Mexico!

Have a great time!

Laurent

Fra_Diavolo

I think after a week in Guanajuato -- for my money the most beautiful city in Mexico -- both Puebla and Cuernavaca might be disappointing. One town fairly near Puebla I missed visiting, but which sounds intriguing, is Tlaxcala. Perhaps someone here who has visited can steer you better on that.

emd3

I went to Tlaxcala for 3 nights two hrs ago. It sounds more intriguing than it is. The only thing there is a bull ring right in the center of town (which only gets used twice a year), a decent church, a small museum. it is a nice town for walking, somewhat hilly. Restaurants are not great. No shopping to speak of, and a ratty market. Definitely not a place to go on your first trip.

I disagree about Puebla being a let down after Guanajuato. They are completely different and both are spectacular in their own ways. Puebla has the most spectacular church architecture and decor in all of MX. Do a walking tour, it will be a fantastic day. Go to the Calle Dulce, very unique, where else do you get an entire long block of stores that sell only indigenous candies. The open air artist area is lovely, as is the market area where arts and crafts and Talaver a pottery is sold. The food is incredible in Puebla. I think Puebla is fantastic, and very different than Guanajuato.

ekscrunchy

Thanks for those tips, EMD3.

I am planning to spend two nights in Puebla in late October....will look forward to Calle Dulce. And all of the famous food of the city! I have been there once but it was quite a few years ago, and will be excited to return..

On another topic, I am aways interested in cities that might make a good base for a month or two in our winter (Dec-March). Have been to Cuernavaca only briefly and again, a long time ago...would be interested to learn if anyone here has found the city a good base for a winter stay..our main requirement is a pool that is suitable for serious swimming..

baldone

Again, agree with emd3 on both points. Cholula certainly is not a destination city. The pyramid is only OK, mostly a mound of dirt with a church on top. It's worth visiting if you're in Puebla and have a few extra hours. As well, Guanajauto and Puebla are both beautiful cities with very different architecture and both are well worth visiting.

Michael

I did not find the pyramid of Cholula particularly interesting. You might want to take a look at my trip report: http://www.fodors.com/community/mexi...nuary-2009.cfm

emd3

The church on top of the UNexcavated pyramid is beautiful and offers great views. And you can tour the tunnels that run through the UNexcavated pyramid. And there are voladores who do the traditional pole dance below on the ground, it is cool to watch them from up on top at the church. That. Is about it, unless you are fortunate enough to be there on a rare day when you can see the volcano.

emd3

See here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/rodoaraiza/9318023592/