I posted a question a few days ago about whether to drop Arenal or Monteverde from our 9 day itinerary, and had some great responses. But - now we are thinking about dropping both (gasp!) and wondered if we are crazy?!
Background: We (husband, 9 year old son, and I) are travelling late Feb. - early May, and will be in Costa Rica for 9 nights. We are pretty set on the Dominical area, and plan to do a day trip to Corcovado from there (Bahia Adventures boat/hike tour). Other than that, we want to see La Paz Waterfall Gardens (mostly for my son), and one other area - preferably cloud forest. We plan to do a canopy tour at Hacienda Baru, and my husband would like to do a slightly more "exciting" zipline if possible, but not absolutely necessary. We're mostly into wildlife, seeing lush, beautiful forests, and relaxing by the beach, and husband plans to take surf lessons.
Here's what we are thinking to maximize vacation time and minimize travel time:
- First night near Poas (Poas Volcano Lodge?)
- Spend one day at La Paz & Poas
- Two nights San Gerardo de Dota, stay at Trogon Lodge for cloud forest, quetzel sighting (hopefully, but this isn't a must!)
- Rest of time (6 nights) Dominical. We already have reservations at Hacienda Baru, so could just extend that time.
- Travel from Dominical to SJO for late afternoon flight home on final day.
Comments? Suggestions? Thanks!
Considering changing itinerary - comments?
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Absolutely drop Arenal and Monteverde; neither is a must.
1. Don't drive up to Poas unless you are in full light.
2. Poas viewing must be early, or it will be clouded over. I assume you are staying near La Paz for the second night? You will have an interesting drive down Highway 2 to the next stop. (Do not try to do this drive down to San Jose, past Cartago, and to San Gerardo unless you have 3 hours of daylight left; mileage LOOKS short in Costa Rica, but driving time is not.)
Dominical area is wonderful for beaches, and there are tons of them. Be sure to visit Playa Ventanas; your son will love going into the sea caves (http://www.ojochal.com/beaches.html), and the beach is gorgeous. Note that it's very surfy at Dominical; for calm beach enjoyment, you'll want to drive a bit south (you might be totally alone on a beautiful long stretch).
BTW, there's a new zipline/canopy tour at Osa Mountain Lodge (they'll pick you up from an office on the main highway; http://www.osamountainvillage.net/).
Day trips, such as a boat ride through the mangroves (depart from Sierpe) are a good possibility; we loved our boat ride through the mangroves (http://www.entercostarica.com/travel/67/Sierpe.php). There are also day trips into Corcovado National Park, or to Cano Island for snorkeling, that depart from Sierpe.
p.s. It's a pretty easy drive to Sierpe from the Dominical area; just get an early start for whatever trips you're making.
Hi Sylvia - great reply! We are thinking of using a private driver and just renting a car for a few days while in Dominical. Not sure this is the most economical way to do it, but neither of us wants to drive anywhere near San Jose, and I've read San Gerardo is a little sketchy to get to, as well.
My husband wants to get away from the city as soon as possible, and suggested we spend one night near La Paz, see it and the volcano as early as possible, then get down to San Gerardo that same night. Does that sound doable to you? If not, we would certainly spend a second night near Poas/La Paz.
I love Arenal, so I personally wouldn't drop it. We've gone there several times and still haven't done everything we've wanted to. I just love the volcano, the natural hot springs, the waterfall, the hiking, and all the amazing adventure activities. But if that's not your thing, it's totally okay to go to the areas that appeal to you. If you did go, your husband should check out Sky Trek; they have some of the longest, highest lines in the country. We were 600 feet up in the air with great views of the lake and the volcano - so pretty. There are so many amazing areas it's hard to choose. We liked Monteverde but having done it, we have never felt a strong pull to go back.
Hi VolcanoGirl - Let's just say that Arenal/Dominical is definitely still in the running. I'm totally torn between just making a smaller loop that includes La Paz/San Gerardo/Dominical, and a bigger loop of La Paz/Arenal/Dominical. Every time I make up my mind one direction, my husband goes the other
We'll figure it out (soon, I hope), but your comments are duly noted. Thanks!
Frankly, I think it's all personal choice; we just wouldn't bother with Arenal again; it seems to us a bit Disney-like, touristy and overcrowded; the area is scenic, but all of Costa Rica is!
Where you're headed, the southern Pacific coast, is our favorite. Adding Poas and La Paz seems to be creating some logistical problems for you. Why not just go directly to the Dominical area? All the fuss for a 1/2 hour to view the Poas crater and then driving to the waterfall garden, seems like extra trouble. Especially considering the rebuilding of the road that was destroyed by an earthquake is going to add time and a rough road, and in this case for you,necessitate a driver, seems to be not worth it.
The incredible scenery, wildlife, beaches, and opportunities for adventure can keep you all very busy if you just go right to the area (and there are TONS of waterfalls in that area, too, and you don't have to pay to see them). That way, you could also bypass Alajuela-San Jose and take the new highway from the aiport right to the coast and thence south.
Save the other stuff for another trip; your time is valuable, and there's so much to see and do from Dominical south, you won't regret it!
Honestly, the trip to La Paz is really for our son. Since he saw the website, he's convinced he wants to go there, and it does seem very family-friendly, but I couldn't agree with you more as to the logistical problems it creates.
Forgive me if you've told me this already, Sylvia, but where near Dominical have you stayed? We are already booked at Hacienda Baru for 4 nights, but since we're considering staying in that area longer, I'm wondering if there's somewhere else we should consider?
I'm in the camp that likes Arenal - a lot. I do agree with sylvia about it being touristy (for a reason); you need to reserve carefully to avoid crowds.
Your plan makes sense to me, BB. So does the plan sylvia suggested... and vc.... ! I'm in the same boat as you, trying to decide between a few places on our fourth CR trip! Just know that you can't go wrong with any of your choices unless they stress you out too much to enjoy them.
B, kids love La Paz. I really think you're smart to focus on things that will appeal to your son. I would have loved the waterfall gardens as a kid, and I still think they're beautiful and very family friendly with the waterfalls, hummingbirds, and all the other activities. I've never gotten a crowded touristy feeling from Arenal. We've done several tours where we've been the only people on them and at the hotel where we stay we've gone hours without seeing another soul. We don't stay in town though. Have you taken a look at tripadvisor at all? You can do a search for each area and see pics and reviews of all the activities you can do. That's one of the things that led us to the Arenal area. You can take a look there and see which areas appeal most to you and your family. Unless you're going for Easter or Spring Break, you're not going to be traveling at a heavily traveled time. As a kid, spending days birding and things like that wouldn't have had much appeal for me, but river floats, animal rescue centers, volcanoes, waterfalls, natural hot springs, etc. would have wowed me. They still do!
Exactly! With a little research, crowds can be easily avoided. I'm curious where sylvia stayed that was Disneyesque. I've been to Arenal in-season and off-season, and didn't encounter anything that bad. I think that your whole family would love the area.
I take it back; our first trip, to Arenal Observatory Lodge (amazing spot), poor front-desk management had us first piling into vans so overcrowded it was comical, booked us into a very crowded hot-springs experience with drunk individuals, etc. I think my trip report is still on the site - it was all very amusing - in retrospect! Still, I'd go back there again - in a heartbeat. We ran into a mother with her young son, and the boy was mesmorized by the volcano and the wildlife. Just would do my research.
Incidentally, though it seems counter-intuitive, I read somewhere that Arenal is more likely to show itself during the wet-season, and this has been the case for us.
The only place we've encountered that was crowded was Tabacon, but I still think a kid would love it - it's beautiful and has a water slide! We prefer Eco Termales because they limit the number of people who can enter, so it never gets crowded and has a more intimate natural feel to it.
As far as "showing itself" Arenal is currently not doing anything; is a scenic volcano, but there are many in CR.
I'm not here to defend one area over another, but I think that people here tend to promote their favorites, and visit their favorites, over other places.
We visited ARenal 3 times, the northwest (Guanacaste) 2 times, and the southeastern coast and Osa penninsula 3 times.
The Arenal area is, to be blunt, very expensive. There are myriad tours to take, but look at spending $100/per person, per jaunt, per day; and lots of the touted tours are 2 hours away, for example up at the Nicaraqua border (that's each way).
The beaches, however, are free and gorgeous and relaxing. The rain forest on the south coast offers unparalled beauty, and there are many reserves, MANY waterfalls, etc. to visit (free). (Or a young boy might love Don Lulo's horseback ride to gorgeous waterfalls that he can swim in.) The opportunity to visit Corcovado National Park, or Cano Island, and mangrove tours is a great option.
Because the OP only has limited time, and the family seems a bit split, the Dominical and south coast seems like a great option. Surfing, gentle beaches, waterfalls, birding, wildlife (and water wildlife: crocodiles!), hiking, and ziplines/canopy availability are big draws.
To include La Paz means (which is pretty, but not spectacular, IMO) a rough ride right now, and a time-consuming one.
I've been all of these places, too, and am honestly trying to give helpful information; yes, I like Arenal, too, but for kids? I just think the options on the southeast are better, in this particular set of circumstances.
As far as Dominical: I can recommend a villa at "Shelter from the Storm" (http://www.shelter-from-the-storm.net; also check out tripadvisor); the house lodgings at Osa Mountain REsort (tho they are perhaps more of a drive up and down the mountain than you'd like; http://www.osacanopytour.com/rates.html); and several 2 person places that would probably not be comfortable for you with your son. But there are many many rentals, including kitchens, all over the place!
My original posting has enlisted some wonderfully informative and insightful responses - thanks to each of you!!!
) busy.
Volcanogirl and Cattail - I honestly appreciate your views and suggestions, and do not disagree at all that we would enjoy Arenal. In fact, our original plan included Monteverde, Arenal and Manuel Antonio for the very reason that these locations seemed to house the best tourist infrastructure, combined with natural beauty, that would be likely to keep a young boy (and did I mention restless husband
However, I think Sylvia has touched upon our particular interests very well, and that we have gravitated to Dominical and the south coast for the very things she describes. I do think that even thought La Paz creates a logistical hiccup, we will plan to include it as an introductory activity for all of us. We then have a whole week to spend in or near Dominical.
Sylvia - I don't think I mentioned it in this thread, but we actually had a small studio apartment above Dominicalito lined up for a week, then started shaking our plans up, and ended up booking 4 nights at Hacienda Baru - both for the adventure of sleeping "in the jungle" and because it's very inexpensive and receives excellent reviews. Do you have first-hand knowledge of Hacienda Baru, or thoughts on its suitability for a longer stay?
Honestly, if it were up to me, I would hide away in an ecolodge in the Osa Peninsula, and we may do that some day! But for now, expenses and accessibility are major factors, and you have all helped clarify my thoughts on how best to spend our time. Thank you so much!
The south coast is amazing - probably my favorite area as well, though I've not been to Dominical. Truly, you'll want to return. You simply can't go wrong with any of the suggested options. Have fun!
The lodge (in the WL refuge) looks like a great location for seeing the sights (our primary needs are kitchen, pool, and clean). You'll just head south for calm beaches(for example, just past surfy Dominical is Playa Hermosa, before Uvita; a terrific stretch) etc. Right up 243 is Don Lulo's waterfall horseback ride: http://www.southerncostaricamap.com/member-listing.php?ID=173&url=/tours.php&get=tours=5 (the link has other activities and maps; note that there are other tours to the waterfalls, as waterfalls are public domain in CR). BTW, Darryl and Donna have helpful links and activities on their (Shelter from the Storm) website, too.
A tip: there's a wonderful place to have lunch/dinner past Uvita (http://www.enuvita.com/catarata.html; look for the restaurante cataraca sign on the east) and you can walk their short trail to a beautiful waterfall/cataracts and enjoy the pools.
Ballena National Park (tail of the whale) is gorgeous (actually, it's all gorgeous); don't forget Playa Ventanas (pay a nominal fee, about $2, to the owners for parking on their property, and walk 1/8 mile to a truly spectacular setting) and Pinuela (http://www.uvitadream.com/playa-pinuela.php; between Ballena and Ventanas; drive down to the hotel/restaurant to park, or pay at the northern entrance of the national park). Of course, southern Osa and Corcovado NP tours are not too far away.
You will have a splendid time, and your appetite will be whetted for the other areas of Costa Rica!
p.s. If you wanted to stay elsewhere after Baru (like a bit further south), there are many many places down the coast; you could probably check them out in person and negotiate a rate if you liked them).
Oh my gosh - great tips, Sylvia! I've just printed this page to take along.
Thank you, Cattail, for your well-wishes. I am certain we will have a fantastic trip!
B, you're right about the Osa; that's another favorite area of ours. The wildlife there is absolutely incredible and fabulous hiking too. If you're like the rest of us, you'll be back. We go to CR every year now and have done Manuel Antonio, the Osa, Tortuguero, Montverde, etc. We try to explore a new area each time. It's amazing how diverse the country is, and Ticos really seem to love children. If you do end up going to the Poas area, you might want to pack a jacket just in case. It was very chilly when we were there. We wore fleece jackets and sweatshirts - you don't always expect to find that in CR. Monteverde was the same for us. One thing you might find helpful is to read ShellD's trip reports. She's an awesome poster with young kids, and I think she's explored a lot of the areas that interest you.
Vocanogirl - I will definitely look up ShellD's trip reports. Thanks for the tip! I'm sure you're right about wanting to return and cover more ground. Trying to decide where to go this trip has been agonizing (in a fun sort of way). I've done so much research, I almost feel as though I've already been there - but I'm sure the reality is much better. I will do a trip report when we get back. I'd love to be in the position to help other travellers, rather than just asking questions!
p.s. Not to overwork the topic anymore BBgt, but make sure you get a good map in hand BEFORE you go (you can order a great one from http://mapcr.com/information/8673/2/Costa-Rica-Free-Costa-Rica-Maps.html; they also have free searchable maps online). Just once more, you really might want to rethink the time spent going in the opposite direction to Poas/LaPaz (given part of the road conditions; just remembering our trip this January), and that there's so much for you to see and do at your destination.
Have a wonderful time!
And, if you have any more specific questions, you could start a new thread; I'm sure there are many here who are happy to help!
I found Shell's report! Looks like you're going to different areas, but here's her take on the Peace Lodge:
So, we arrived at the Peace Lodge around lunch time and our room, the Monarch Villa wasn't quite ready. No problem...we went to the Trout Bar for lunch. It was pretty much as some others had mentioned, ok. I remembered it as being a little bit better, but it wasn't what we'd call bad either. After luch we headed to the exhibits and my kids were just WOWED!!!! First to the aviary and the birds were just fabulous. Then to the butterflies and my son was having the blue morpho's land all over him! He'd stick his hand out and they'd land right on him! We all enjoyed watching them in the cocoon stage and emerging into butterflies. We spent a great amount of time there. When we were there last year they didn't yet have the monkey's so that was new for us. We talked to the man working there and he told us all about the different monkey's and how they all were rescued, some were pets, some were kept as show monkey's at places like restaurants, some were injured. He really enjoyed telling us about each monkey and their individual personality traits. One of the white faced actually liked to play hide and seek and played with my daughter for a good 10 minutes! It was really clear that he was actually interacting with her and wanted her to play with him!
We visited the snakes, which my son loved and a quick walk through the frogs, we'd be back later that night for the night tour. We also checked out the traditional farm house and had a ride in the oxcart. About then we had a major, major downpour....it didn't last long and then we went to the new cat exhibit. Again, the man working there told us all about each cat with such enthusiasm!
We went back to our room and all enjoyed soaks in our hot tubs...the Monarch Villa --- it's huge! Can't say enough about that place. It's definitely a splurge, but we thoroughly enjoyed the pampered feeling. My daugher loved the aroma machine in the bathroom. The bathroom downstairs even has it's own fireplace! Good news there, no sharing of beds for the kids either! So, the room is beautiful, plenty of room for us parents to have some much needed space from the kids and the kids to have their own space as well. While the kids soaked in the hot tub on the balcony I brewed a pot of great Costa Rican coffee and we sat on our balcony watching the hummingbirds as the clouds rolled in and out. It's just so magical there! Next decision...dinner. This was tough for us because both my husband and I really did enjoy the onsite restaurant there, but didn't want to pay the prices for a full meal for our kids, even the a la carte prices were a lot for them! Especially my picky eater son! The room service menu wasn't too appealing and we didn't want the Trout Bar again! So, we convinced the kids to get the spaghetti from the "nice" restaurant and share it - it's a big portion! I know there's been mixed reviews on the restaurant there, but we felt for the price, I think it's $35? for soup, salad, entree and dessert it's a pretty good deal! And our meals have been really quite good each time. We were pleasantly surprised to find out they only charged the kids $14 instead of the standard a la carte price for the entree, so that was nice.
After dinner we had our night frog tour. As volcanogirl mentioned in her report, you can no longer hold the frogs, but we still really enjoyed it. Our guide was so enthusiastic about finding the frogs and we were the only people on our tour so we had him all to ourself. My kids were so into the whole experience, finding frogs everywhere and asking him so many questions. He was really patient with them.
The next morning we got up and after breakfast we did the hummingbird feeding. That's the one thing we missed last year and it was so cool! My daughter was a bit skittish when they'd fly by her, but the rest of us loved it! Especially when they'd land right on our fingers on top of the feeders! After doing that for a long time we did the hike down to the waterfalls and the kids enjoyed that as well. My son kept saying that each hotel we'd stayed at kept getting better! It's amazing because even being there last year, the size of those falls is still just so amazing!
If you go, definitely try to be there when they do the handfeeding of the hummingbirds. That's just a really amazing experience. When we were there, they did it twice a day.
Wondering about the date on that report, Volcanogirl? Peace Lodge is nice, and La Paz, but until they get that road repaired, it's a very slow and bumpy ride (that's why I've stressed twice the "get going early" part).
(last time I got $236 R/T from Denver to LIR!)
All this CR stuff is making me want a big air sale
We have plans for a trip coming up, and we're going to hit the Peace Lodge again. Just for a night. I can give an update when we get back. I remember Shell also saying that their GPS didn't work a lot of the time. And they got a lot of rain. All part of the CR experience I guess!
Thanks for finding that trip report, Volcanogirl - I hadn't gotten around to it yet. What a great time for the kids! I know my son would love La Paz as well, which is why we're planning on it, in spite of the time it will take.

Sylvia - we are thinking of arranging a tour or private transportation to go to La Paz, so at least any potential aggravations will be on someone else, rather than on my husband. Does that make it seem a little less of a logistical problem in your mind?
I think we're going to use private transportation to get to Dominical, as well, since we will really only need a car for a few of the days we are there. My best estimates show comparable costs for renting a car the whole trip vs. a combination of private transport and car rental.
Thanks again to each of you for your unique perspectives and invaluable help! You're right, Sylvia - I will start a new thread if I have more specific questions. But this conversation has really helped - you are all awesome
I would say that the round-trip airport-La Paz private driver is a good idea, but the rest of the trip not. Of course, once you get to the Dominical area you can certainly rent a car; I'm picturing all the little side trips and jaunts to the beach, and Sierpe, and doing what you want when you want, and a car was vital for us. The driving is extremely easy once you reach the Dominical area; it's mostly on/off the main highway. Basically, if you are a busy and/or adventurous family at all, a car is your best idea for maximizing your time and comfort. (We rented a 4WD for 16 days for less than $500 in high season; are your comparisons really better?)
If you decide to get a car once you get there, we've had good luck with Solid: they will give you a quote that includes removing the charge for the insurance coverage provided by your credit card (so you only need pay for 1 type of mandatory coverage above the daily rate); you probably could get by with a cheaper sedan instead of 4WD, also: http://www.solidcarrental.com/
We were thinking of overnighting at San Gerardo de Dota on the way to or from Dominical, and that particular route sounds a little daunting. Otherwise, it does sound as though the driving along the coastal route and in Dominical is pretty simple, so maybe we need to rethink the transportation piece.
Good to know about Solid. My quotes for car rental may have included extra insurance. I actually had a quote from a company (I thought it was Solid, but could be wrong) that was more like $750 for 10 days. With the rates you have had, no, my comparisons are definitely not better!
The LNR (liability) you must have. However, CNR (collision) that is added to your quotes is usually covered by your credit card company, so get quotes (print our the emails, and confirm) without CNR (we've needed proof in the form of letter from the cc co. only once). That price is ridiculous, unless you're looking at some really fancy vehicle!
If you have a car at La Paz, and have come down to Alajuela and want to go through the city, you'll be on the main highway.
If you are leaving for Dominical from the airport area and driving yourselves (if your driver has taken you back there to get a car), you could easily take the main highways to Dominical (from the airport, allow 4 hours, including a stop to see the crocodiles from the bridge at Tarcoles; a must on that route, IMO!).
However, if you are going via San Gerardo, it's an entirely different route; that's about 2 hours from SJO (Alajuela; once you're down from Poas/La Paz); from there, it's a 1.5 hour drive (from the highway) to Dominical (that part is not daunting per se, but lots of turns and often slow truck traffic. If you are not impatient, it's a beautiful drive, I think. I assume you will turn east onto 243 at San Isidro del General?)
So, depending on where/if you get a car, either route is fine; you might want to do both, just to experience the different scenery.
My primary caveat has been the San Jose area traffic; the signs are not as good as they could be, and getting through the city onto Hwy 2 (near Cartago) can be...irksome
Here's a list of general travel times:
http://www.govisitcostarica.com/travelInfo/travelTime.asp#407
Here's a general map (of the central area; it doesn't include the main routes from SJO):
http://www.anywherecostarica.com/maps#south-central-costa-rica
Be sure not to confuse place names; lots of them are similar!
B, someone else may have already mentioned this, but be sure not to leave anything in your car unattended if you guys drive. Break-ins are pretty common.
Great info on the routes, Sylvia. I think we will try to do the two different routes just to see the scenery. And I will definitely keep in mind the possibility of break-ins. I've heard that from other sources as well, enough to make me pretty paranoid!
Yes, you have to be. We've met multiple couples who have had all their stuff stolen. One even while they were keeping an eye on their car from the restaurant at lunch. As long as you're smart about it, you should be fine.
Wow, never had a car break-in; never met anyone who had (private condo, yes); was this all the Arenal area, volcanogirl, or somewhere else specific? (Of course, I hear that same advice, and read the same signs in the parking lots, for Rocky Mountain National Park, near my home.)
Caution is wise everywhere; paranoia will spoil a trip. Don't leave valuables, take turns using restrooms on the road, etc. But wouldn't that go for anywhere?
We were in a pickle on the road once, stopped at a small waterfall, one wheel hanging over into space; a beaten-up car came zooming up, stopped behind us, and 3 young guys jumped out, pushed our car onto terra firma, waved, and jumped back in their car. That was our first impression of tico kindness.
BTW, a handy waterproof case for keys and cash is helpful for impromptu swims: http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Container-Airtight-Money-Beach/dp/B002EDCS06
I got mine at Target for $1
Volcanogirl's comment reminds me, viewing crocodiles from Tarcoles Bridge is much better than it used to be (it used to be notorious), but that might be a place to take turns looking over the bridge while you're parked!
We've met a lot of people that it's happened to. We met one couple who was traveling and had stopped for lunch and while their car was in view someone broke in. We met another couple dressed head to toe in clothes that said things like "I love Monteverde!" etc. which we though was so funny, but then they explained that all their luggage had been stolen, so they had to buy all new clothes. Another couple had had their camera stolen along with all the photos so that was another bummer. Friends of ours had their VRBO place broken into while they were there and asleep. It definitely is something to keep in mind. I don't leave valuables in my car anywhere even back home. I just think it's a good idea to have a heads up since some people don't think twice about leaving luggage in the car.
"But wouldn't that go for anywhere?" Well, some spots in the world are simply more risky in terms of theft than others. Much of CR is still pretty poor, so theft is a bigger concern in general than in geographical areas with more wealth. On the other hand, I read somewhere that violent crime is relatively low in CR, and I have met many, many super-kind ticos.
I totally agree with you, Cat. Our friends whose place was broken into was in Manuel Antonio; the only thing they took was iPad, camera, etc. Things that may not be as common in CR. In the case of the car thefts, they usually just take the entire suitcase. Some people chain them together to make it a little more difficult or chain them to something in the car. Petty theft is really all we worry about in CR. For the most part, the people are warm and friendly and amazing.
Petty criminals prey on tourists across the globe. It can't be avoided.
In richer countries like Europe, the main crime are purse snatchers and pick-pockets--some even carry razor blades so they can slash the handles of a woman's bag so they can run off with it.
At one point, the government of Japan (IIRC) filed an official complain with the government of Spain because the crime directed against Japanese tourists in Barcelona was so rampant.