A Budget Trip to Buenos Aires
Oct 13th, 2006, 01:43 PM
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A Budget Trip to Buenos Aires
I have garnered a lot of useful information on this forum and I am feeling guilty that I have never contributed anything; so, here is my report, a budget trip to Buenos Aires. Perhaps someone can find a kernel of useful information in it.
We, my husband and I and another couple, booked this trip through Escapes Unlimited Inc.; their website is www.ecapesltd.com. I would use this company again, they delivered what they had promised. Jane was the individual who handled most of our trip arrangements and she was efficient and friendly. Anyway, the deal was $599 per person, round trip on Copa Airlines from Miami to Panama to Buenos Aires, 5 nights budget hotel with breakfast, taxes included, round trip transfer airport to hotel and half day city tour. UNBELIEVABLE! For a few more bucks we chose to stay one night in Panama City and take the tour of the Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal. We also opted for a few tours with this company, rather than use the precious time in Buenos Aires to arrange tours.
Day 1 - Atlanta to Miami
A short plane trip, it was cheap enough that we paid for the trip rather than use frequent flier miles. We stayed at Miami International Hotel which is within the airport, not a luxurious place but unbelievably convenient for an early flight the next day. We took a cab to South Beach to have a few drinks and dinner. South Beach was nice, there was a breeze from the ocean, a full moon, palm trees swaying, etc. The art deco buildings were pretty and it was a good place to people watch.
Day 2 – Miami to Panama City
About a three-hour trip, we arrived at noon and toured the city and the Miraflores Locks. Having very little scientific curiosity, I was pleasantly surprised to find it interesting. The museum had a short film, a historic display, a nature display, etc. Panama City was hotter than Georgia asphalt and very humid. We stayed at a tourist/budget hotel, Hotel Marbella, my only complaint was that the air conditioning was barely adequate. Otherwise, the place appeared to be clean and safe; they served a full breakfast and it was delicious.
Day 3 – Panama City to Buenos Aires
About a 6 hour trip, we were met by our travel agent and whisked to our hotel, the Waldorf Hotel. Again, this was a tourist/budget hotel but it was clean and safe. The beds were comfortable but the carpet, draperies, and wallpaper needed to be replaced. We are not too demanding about hotels. We are just there to sleep and the rest of the time we are out and about in the city. The location was pretty good; i.e., we could walk to Calle Florida to window shop and there were places to eat within walking distance.
Day 4 – The Estancia
We had a blast! It was obviously just for tourists but, hey, that is what we were! There was a ranch house and a few other buildings that you could tour. The food was great and the wine flowed freely. They had a tango and folk dance show; the gauchos put on a demonstration of their horsemanship, etc. My friend and I each received a ring from a gaucho! Admittedly, it was not because we were the youngest or prettiest but we were the most brazen! What can I say? That night we walked to Café Tortoni and had a snack and a nightcap. It had a bit of history and was a beautiful old building.
Day 5 – The City Tour and The Melt Down
The city tour was a disappointment. Our guide’s English was not sufficient and our Spanish is non-existent. So, if I had not done a bit of research I would not have known what we were seeing. Also, the main thing we stopped for was the tacky souvenir shop in La Boca. La Boca was pretty interesting, I liked the vibrant colors and the excitement of the market. We left the tour bus at San Telmo Market and took in the sights. That was a fun part of the day, I got some great photos there. We had lunch at La Casa de Esteban de Luscan at Calle Defensa. The steaks were wonderful and the grilled provolone cheese was to die for. Later, we take a cab to Recoleta Cemetery. Naturally, we find Peron’s grave and make a few photos. This is one of the creepiest cemeteries I have ever seen. New Orleans has some pretty freaky ones, the one that voodoo queen Marie Laveau is entombed in, has offerings of cigarettes, bottles of booze, flowers, candles, etc. The other freaky one is Highgate Cemetery outside of London. Look it up on the internet, Jeez, it is spooky and to add to it there is a cult group who swears that a vampire lurks about in Highgate! But, I digress…
The Melt Down
That night we did something really lame, we jumped in a taxi that was not a radio taxi! Yes, I know, I was warned. Anyway, there we were with this driver (with no photo id posted anywhere) and he is taking us in circles (even we, strangers in a strange land, knew we were going in circles). Meanwhile, this person is on the phone, speaking in a language that we don’t understand and we are wondering if we are to be met in a dark alley by his cronies and robbed. We arrived (unscathed) at the restaurant and we find that it is closed on that night. By this time we have a melt down, a falling out among the ranks, whatever…. We grab something at a sidewalk café, barely speaking to each other, etc. When we leave we get a radio taxi and he drives like a maniac. Picture being in a cab that is flying down a narrow, crowded street, and intermittently running over garbage bags. Yes, the sound of full trash bags being hit by a speeding taxi! Bags burst and garbage flies, we move on. We were torn between being appalled and amused. (Remember we are from Georgia, and have a bit of redneck in us.) Actually, the ride broke the tension and we were all speaking again. Mainly to say, “God, I’m glad we bought that traveler’s insurance!”
Day 6 – Uruguay
We take the fast ferry, whatever it is called, to Colonia, Uruguay. The town was rather touristy. It was old, cobblestone roads, quaint shops and restaurants in historic buildings, antique cars planted here and there to add to the atmosphere. We had a great lunch and found the place interesting but not really fascinating. Oh well, it meant another stamp on the old passport.
Day 7 – Shopping & The Tango Show
We go to leather alley and buy some jackets, wallets, belts, etc. I thought the prices were good and I hope my jacket proves to be of good quality. My friend bought a lambswool ankle length coat with a hood. It was gorgeous but not the kind of thing that I would wear. We go to Las Nazarenas at Reconquist for lunch. The lunch is fabulous; my steak is one of the best that I have ever had. We get complimentary glasses of champagne and a free photo. I don’t know why. The rest of the patrons looked like businessmen. The restaurant was pretty neat; it had the open grill in the front window. I didn’t have my camera to get a shot of the grill though. That night we go to the tango show, Esquina Carlos Gardel . The meal was good and the show was great. Of course, I am no expert about the tango, so I don’t know how authentic it was. I just know that we enjoyed it.
Day 8 & 9 – Buenos Aires – Panama – Miami – Atlanta - Home
A long flight but fortunately it was not crowded. We arrive in Miami at 11:30 p.m. and are tired. Again, we stayed in Miami International Hotel because we fly to Atlanta the next day. The most crowded of the planes was the Delta flight to Atlanta. Copa Airlines didn’t pack us in as much as Delta.
Regrets? I wish that we had stayed a few more days and gone to Iguazu Falls. Perhaps, we will return sometime because I did love Buenos Aires. I would have gone to every tango show in town if my husband and friends would not have complained. I don’t mind that we took a cheap (?) trip via Miami and Panama – South Beach was fun and the Panama Canal was interesting. I put a question mark by cheap because by the time we flew to Miami and stayed two extra nights there, it was not that cheap. However, I was not tired like I am when we have gone to Europe, I suppose because of the time difference.
We, my husband and I and another couple, booked this trip through Escapes Unlimited Inc.; their website is www.ecapesltd.com. I would use this company again, they delivered what they had promised. Jane was the individual who handled most of our trip arrangements and she was efficient and friendly. Anyway, the deal was $599 per person, round trip on Copa Airlines from Miami to Panama to Buenos Aires, 5 nights budget hotel with breakfast, taxes included, round trip transfer airport to hotel and half day city tour. UNBELIEVABLE! For a few more bucks we chose to stay one night in Panama City and take the tour of the Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal. We also opted for a few tours with this company, rather than use the precious time in Buenos Aires to arrange tours.
Day 1 - Atlanta to Miami
A short plane trip, it was cheap enough that we paid for the trip rather than use frequent flier miles. We stayed at Miami International Hotel which is within the airport, not a luxurious place but unbelievably convenient for an early flight the next day. We took a cab to South Beach to have a few drinks and dinner. South Beach was nice, there was a breeze from the ocean, a full moon, palm trees swaying, etc. The art deco buildings were pretty and it was a good place to people watch.
Day 2 – Miami to Panama City
About a three-hour trip, we arrived at noon and toured the city and the Miraflores Locks. Having very little scientific curiosity, I was pleasantly surprised to find it interesting. The museum had a short film, a historic display, a nature display, etc. Panama City was hotter than Georgia asphalt and very humid. We stayed at a tourist/budget hotel, Hotel Marbella, my only complaint was that the air conditioning was barely adequate. Otherwise, the place appeared to be clean and safe; they served a full breakfast and it was delicious.
Day 3 – Panama City to Buenos Aires
About a 6 hour trip, we were met by our travel agent and whisked to our hotel, the Waldorf Hotel. Again, this was a tourist/budget hotel but it was clean and safe. The beds were comfortable but the carpet, draperies, and wallpaper needed to be replaced. We are not too demanding about hotels. We are just there to sleep and the rest of the time we are out and about in the city. The location was pretty good; i.e., we could walk to Calle Florida to window shop and there were places to eat within walking distance.
Day 4 – The Estancia
We had a blast! It was obviously just for tourists but, hey, that is what we were! There was a ranch house and a few other buildings that you could tour. The food was great and the wine flowed freely. They had a tango and folk dance show; the gauchos put on a demonstration of their horsemanship, etc. My friend and I each received a ring from a gaucho! Admittedly, it was not because we were the youngest or prettiest but we were the most brazen! What can I say? That night we walked to Café Tortoni and had a snack and a nightcap. It had a bit of history and was a beautiful old building.
Day 5 – The City Tour and The Melt Down
The city tour was a disappointment. Our guide’s English was not sufficient and our Spanish is non-existent. So, if I had not done a bit of research I would not have known what we were seeing. Also, the main thing we stopped for was the tacky souvenir shop in La Boca. La Boca was pretty interesting, I liked the vibrant colors and the excitement of the market. We left the tour bus at San Telmo Market and took in the sights. That was a fun part of the day, I got some great photos there. We had lunch at La Casa de Esteban de Luscan at Calle Defensa. The steaks were wonderful and the grilled provolone cheese was to die for. Later, we take a cab to Recoleta Cemetery. Naturally, we find Peron’s grave and make a few photos. This is one of the creepiest cemeteries I have ever seen. New Orleans has some pretty freaky ones, the one that voodoo queen Marie Laveau is entombed in, has offerings of cigarettes, bottles of booze, flowers, candles, etc. The other freaky one is Highgate Cemetery outside of London. Look it up on the internet, Jeez, it is spooky and to add to it there is a cult group who swears that a vampire lurks about in Highgate! But, I digress…
The Melt Down
That night we did something really lame, we jumped in a taxi that was not a radio taxi! Yes, I know, I was warned. Anyway, there we were with this driver (with no photo id posted anywhere) and he is taking us in circles (even we, strangers in a strange land, knew we were going in circles). Meanwhile, this person is on the phone, speaking in a language that we don’t understand and we are wondering if we are to be met in a dark alley by his cronies and robbed. We arrived (unscathed) at the restaurant and we find that it is closed on that night. By this time we have a melt down, a falling out among the ranks, whatever…. We grab something at a sidewalk café, barely speaking to each other, etc. When we leave we get a radio taxi and he drives like a maniac. Picture being in a cab that is flying down a narrow, crowded street, and intermittently running over garbage bags. Yes, the sound of full trash bags being hit by a speeding taxi! Bags burst and garbage flies, we move on. We were torn between being appalled and amused. (Remember we are from Georgia, and have a bit of redneck in us.) Actually, the ride broke the tension and we were all speaking again. Mainly to say, “God, I’m glad we bought that traveler’s insurance!”
Day 6 – Uruguay
We take the fast ferry, whatever it is called, to Colonia, Uruguay. The town was rather touristy. It was old, cobblestone roads, quaint shops and restaurants in historic buildings, antique cars planted here and there to add to the atmosphere. We had a great lunch and found the place interesting but not really fascinating. Oh well, it meant another stamp on the old passport.
Day 7 – Shopping & The Tango Show
We go to leather alley and buy some jackets, wallets, belts, etc. I thought the prices were good and I hope my jacket proves to be of good quality. My friend bought a lambswool ankle length coat with a hood. It was gorgeous but not the kind of thing that I would wear. We go to Las Nazarenas at Reconquist for lunch. The lunch is fabulous; my steak is one of the best that I have ever had. We get complimentary glasses of champagne and a free photo. I don’t know why. The rest of the patrons looked like businessmen. The restaurant was pretty neat; it had the open grill in the front window. I didn’t have my camera to get a shot of the grill though. That night we go to the tango show, Esquina Carlos Gardel . The meal was good and the show was great. Of course, I am no expert about the tango, so I don’t know how authentic it was. I just know that we enjoyed it.
Day 8 & 9 – Buenos Aires – Panama – Miami – Atlanta - Home
A long flight but fortunately it was not crowded. We arrive in Miami at 11:30 p.m. and are tired. Again, we stayed in Miami International Hotel because we fly to Atlanta the next day. The most crowded of the planes was the Delta flight to Atlanta. Copa Airlines didn’t pack us in as much as Delta.
Regrets? I wish that we had stayed a few more days and gone to Iguazu Falls. Perhaps, we will return sometime because I did love Buenos Aires. I would have gone to every tango show in town if my husband and friends would not have complained. I don’t mind that we took a cheap (?) trip via Miami and Panama – South Beach was fun and the Panama Canal was interesting. I put a question mark by cheap because by the time we flew to Miami and stayed two extra nights there, it was not that cheap. However, I was not tired like I am when we have gone to Europe, I suppose because of the time difference.
Oct 13th, 2006, 03:02 PM
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Great and entertaining report, marlib1951!
About the cabs, my advice is and always has been, to have a radio raxi or remise CALLED, repeat CALLED, repeat CALLED, by the shop, restaurant or café you are spending your money in.
The name of the estancia?
When should we expect you back here?
About the cabs, my advice is and always has been, to have a radio raxi or remise CALLED, repeat CALLED, repeat CALLED, by the shop, restaurant or café you are spending your money in.
The name of the estancia?
When should we expect you back here?
Oct 16th, 2006, 04:50 AM
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avrooster, the estancia was Santa Susana, it was a fun day. On the way to the estancia our guide talked about the city, the ranch, culture, customs, etc. and served us some mate. I don't know when we will return but when we do, I want to join you on a walk to explore another side of BA. (I have been reading some of the posts here.) Our next trip is a cruise down the Rhine next month. I am wondering if I want to go back to Europe, South America might be more interesting for me. As I have read on this forum, BA is Paris without the attitude!
Oct 16th, 2006, 08:10 AM
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You know, we just got back from Paris 2 weeks ago - it was my first trip in 28 years and my husband's first trip ever. We honestly didn't find any 'attitude'. When we left, my husband said that he was disappointed not to find at least 1 rude French waiter!
Oct 16th, 2006, 03:32 PM
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I enjoyed your trip report. You did a lot of the same stuff I did when I was in Buenos Aires three weeks ago. I, too, loved La Casa de Esteban de Luca...made my husband take me there a second time, and we never do restaurant repeats when traveling. Oh...I loved the free champagne and gaucho rings, too. 
Sounds like a good time was had by all!
Sounds like a good time was had by all!
Nov 6th, 2006, 04:37 AM
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marlib,
I really hope that you are still monitoring this post because I need your opinions!
We too are going to the Estancia (not sure which one) for the day - and for the evening we want to see Tango - somewhere - but don't think we'll be up for the big Tango Dinner production.
After reading your report, what you did sounds like what we are wanting - Cafe Tortoni - did you see the Tango show and how was the food? We won't want much after the Estancia - what did you have?
La Casa de Esteban de Luscan at Calle Defensa sounds like a great place to eat. And so does Las Nazarenas at Reconquist! Which was your favorite?
Hoping you are reading this!
I really hope that you are still monitoring this post because I need your opinions!
We too are going to the Estancia (not sure which one) for the day - and for the evening we want to see Tango - somewhere - but don't think we'll be up for the big Tango Dinner production.
After reading your report, what you did sounds like what we are wanting - Cafe Tortoni - did you see the Tango show and how was the food? We won't want much after the Estancia - what did you have?
La Casa de Esteban de Luscan at Calle Defensa sounds like a great place to eat. And so does Las Nazarenas at Reconquist! Which was your favorite?
Hoping you are reading this!
Nov 6th, 2006, 05:22 AM
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Brahmama, As you may have noticed, I spend a great deal of time surfing the net! So, yes, I noticed your post. We had better steaks at Las Nazarenas than at La Casa de Esteban. The staff/ service at Las Nazarenas was really good; i.e., free champagne and a free photo. La Casa de Esteban was good and the building itself was more interesting, it is a historic site. Maybe that was just our particular experience and not always true but Las Nazarenas was our favorite. The price was only about $20 US per person at both places and we ordered the most expensive steaks on the menu and had beer. (In hot weather beer is our drink.) At Cafe Tortoni we just had sandwiches and dessert - the flan/custard with that wonderful caramel sauce (dulce de leche creme?)that is served everywhere. We did not see the tango show at Cafe Tortoni. I hope this helps.
Nov 27th, 2006, 04:54 AM
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marlib1951-
Many thanks for your interesting budget trip report. My wife and I are in the early planning stages of a trip to Buenos Aires and apparently have much of the same travel philosophy that you seem to have. I pride myself on being thrifty, but not cheap!
I am aware of the great deals put together by Escapes Unlimited Inc. and am thinking about their $599 package, but with a few extra days added on and a slight hotel upgrade.
Did you have a chance to see any of the other (upgraded) hotels on their list? I am particularly curious about the Wilton Hotel. Do you possibly know anything about it, particularly its location and proximity to a subte station?
I am thinking about taking one of Escapes Unlimited's packages for air travel, hotels and airport transfers but am toying with the idea of arranging any other local tours and side trips (i.e. Iguazu Falls) with Cintia at WOW Argentina. I might even ask her if she can match or beat the Escapes Unlimited package. (There have been so many positive comments about her that I feel this would be a very dependable and professional person to work with.) What are your thoughts on this?
Many thanks for your interesting budget trip report. My wife and I are in the early planning stages of a trip to Buenos Aires and apparently have much of the same travel philosophy that you seem to have. I pride myself on being thrifty, but not cheap!
I am aware of the great deals put together by Escapes Unlimited Inc. and am thinking about their $599 package, but with a few extra days added on and a slight hotel upgrade.
Did you have a chance to see any of the other (upgraded) hotels on their list? I am particularly curious about the Wilton Hotel. Do you possibly know anything about it, particularly its location and proximity to a subte station?
I am thinking about taking one of Escapes Unlimited's packages for air travel, hotels and airport transfers but am toying with the idea of arranging any other local tours and side trips (i.e. Iguazu Falls) with Cintia at WOW Argentina. I might even ask her if she can match or beat the Escapes Unlimited package. (There have been so many positive comments about her that I feel this would be a very dependable and professional person to work with.) What are your thoughts on this?
Nov 27th, 2006, 11:01 AM
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The Wilton is an average hotel in a great location on Callao near Ave. Santa Fe, one of the main shopping areas.
Cintia is not exactly a "bargain basement" travel agent. Her niche is personalized service rather than low cost. You can try your approach re: matching prices, but the odds aren't good that she will accept.
Cintia is not exactly a "bargain basement" travel agent. Her niche is personalized service rather than low cost. You can try your approach re: matching prices, but the odds aren't good that she will accept.
Nov 27th, 2006, 05:39 PM
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Stayed at Wilton on 3 different stays in Aug/Sept and had a clean, comfortable room each time. Breakfast was ample, location wonderful for walking or getting radio taxis, staff friendly and mostly bilingual. There also was a "business center" with 3 free computers, but another space was being remodeled for a larger business area on the first floor. Would stay there again. You can get more information on http://www.hotelwilton.com.ar
Nov 29th, 2006, 09:38 AM
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Really enjoyed your post. Has it only been two weeks since we were there? I think Argentina is a place we will return to visit. There's so much to see and the people are so friendly, even if you don't speak very much Spanish.
Salta and the east coast are my list.
We went to the Cafe Tortoni tango show. It was small and the dancers are young and beautiful, but try to get a table up front. We had a table 3 back from the stage and it was hard to see the dancers' feet. It was only $10 for the show and you didn't have to have dinner.
My husband is enjoying coffee in his Cafe Tortoni cup. He only drinks half a cup, so its just perfect.
Salta and the east coast are my list.
We went to the Cafe Tortoni tango show. It was small and the dancers are young and beautiful, but try to get a table up front. We had a table 3 back from the stage and it was hard to see the dancers' feet. It was only $10 for the show and you didn't have to have dinner.
My husband is enjoying coffee in his Cafe Tortoni cup. He only drinks half a cup, so its just perfect.
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