Your favorite (and little known) restaurants in Paris

It would bwe hard to find a good restaurant that wasn't known unless you know someone who lives off the usual arrondisements that tourists dine. Perhaps Keruac could help.
I loved staying in tha Marais and her is one that I didn't find touisty.

http://www.fodors.com/world/europe/france/paris/review-428122.html

bookmarking

The great thing about Paris is that there are thousands of restaurants - about 9,000 - and the only ones you will have heard of - about 40 - will be full of tourists. Thus, the logic is to make a list of restaurants that are recommended in travel and foodie forums, then avoid them :¬)

We have found it difficult to get a bad meal in Paris as long as you avoid the Marais, the Latin Quarter and Montmarte. It isn't that you are guaranteeed to get a bad meal in those parts, by my experience is that if you do get a bad meal in Paris (and that means price exceeds quality as well as just bad food) it will be in those areas. You can catch a metro to just about anywhere within the periferique and find good meals. We stay in the 19th, where even the most humble of cafés can feed you extremely well for under 20euros

I disagree, there are dozens of excellant restaurants in the Marais

We have found it difficult to get a bad meal in Paris as long as you avoid the Marais, the Latin Quarter and Montmarte.

HOGWASH some of the best restaurants are in those arrondissements!

Try Le Pamphlet , Itineraries, Petit Pontoise, Le Escallier du Bistrot, Robert and Louise, Bistrot de Oulette , Frenchie's, Paul Bert ..I could go on and on and

In the heart of the touristy 6th my favorite is restaurant Roger la Grenouille on rue des Grands Augustines. It is steps from rue St. Andre des Arts, the main line from St. Michel to St. Germain des Pres.

Agree with Avalon.

Yes, there are some restaurants in the St Michel area that are crappier, with guys outside trying to lure you in. But do not let that be your basis for picking an area.

Here are some on the Left Bank that I have been to over the years..Chez Clement, La Jacobine, Le Petit Zinc, Chez Rene, L'Atlas, Rotisserie du Beaujolais, Chez Henri - Moulin a Vent, , Bistrot du 7ieme, Le Bonaparte. So, so, and a third so. many more on my list.

Also on Grand Augustines, Espadon Bleu and around the corner on rue Christine, another Jacques Cagna's bistro, Le Rotesserie d'un Face. So 2 famous chef's places, then there is Fish on Rue de Seine. also on GA Ze Kitchen Galerie.

We had a tasty pizza at Pizza Positano # 15 rue Canettes, near St Sulpice. There were lots of locals there, or rather I should say folks speaking French-- perhaps they were tourists too!

We stayed in the 15th the last time awe went to Paris. We ate 3 or 4 times at Pizza Flora, a very sweet little restaurant near Rue Vaugirard. Great Italian food

Undiscovered...tough. Because so many tourists go to the 5th and 6th, very few restaurants have escaped their attention. But, take a place like La Jacobine. Away from main boulevard, not very large (20 people?) and I had a really good fish soup followed by a maigret de canard. Is it in any guide books, probably not. Good, reasonably priced comfort food.

While, there I was staying in the 16th...no tourists around at all. One night I went wandering to find a restaurant. Ended up on one of the larger streets, walked by and saw Rotonde de la Muette. I had the best sole meuniere there. Narry a tourist in site. This one is probably not in any guidebook either. The chances of tourists stumbling on this one are slim, because it is in a residential area with no "name" sites, except for Marmottan down the street.

There is a good trip report here from someone who rented an apprtment in Montmartre and went to local restaurants for meals. Pudlo, I believe , was one guide he used.

Read what I said:

"We have found it difficult to get a bad meal in Paris as long as you avoid the Marais, the Latin Quarter and Montmarte. It isn't that you are guaranteeed to get a bad meal in those parts, by my experience is that if you do get a bad meal in Paris (and that means price exceeds quality as well as just bad food) it will be in those areas"

I rephrase for those who don't read English very well: There are good restaurants in those areas - but there are also some that do not represent good value or good quality food. If you do find a restaurant that isn't up to scratch, then is is likely to be in the more touristy areas.

Michel_Paris apprently agrees...

Michel_Paris, we'll be staying in the 6th at the Bonaparte. If we want to try out the La Jacobine, would you suggest reservations? Thanks!

ttt

wiz...

You may have a point, up to a point.

Implies the tourists (who are more likely to be found in 6th) will "fall for" bad food, while locals will be more discerning. Likewise, implies no bad restaurants in the non-central regions.

I've eaten some crap on Rue de Rivoli, where the perfume and tourist souvenir shops are located. There is a McDonald's on the Champs Elysee.

A restaurant in the non-central regions has to rely on the locals, not a volume, tourist clientele,. As such, it requires perhaps a more focused approach. But I have had some very nice meals in the 5th/6th, and some of the top rated restaurants (by locals) are located there. One time that I went, I used the Michelin Red guide to pick restaurants on the Left Bank. All my choices worked out

"...as long as you avoid the Marais, the Latin Quarter and Montmarte." Nope. while there are crap restaurants, there are many good ones. The RATIO might be different than the 16th, but a blanket statement like that...

Be selective, plan ahead, look to see who is eating at the restaurant, is it busy, look at the menu (they all post it outdoors), and you will avoid the crap,

La Jacobine was somewhere a friend living there took me. Walked in, no reservation.

From my travel report....

59 St Andre des Arts. Small place, maybe 10 tables, nice painted walls. Had maigret de canard (bit red) and fish soup. Soup was a puré, not fishy at all. Get a side plate of crème fraiche, bread and grated cheese, which you then mix into soup, glass of Beaujolais. Pleasant and prompt service. Total bill ~30E

The casual Caffe Vito in the Marais (4th) has great pizza (which your kids should enjoy) with many locals-

12 Rue des Archives, 75004 Paris, France
tel.- 01 42 74 08 84‎

Take the metro to the Hotel de Ville stop. It's a short walk from there.

Here is what I wrote in my trip report about Au Vieux Chene in the eleventh arrondissement:

I go out for dinner at Au Vieux Chêne, at 7 rue du Dahomey, in the eleventh arrondissement. http://www.vieuxchene.fr/. I love this place. It is closed Saturday and Sunday. According to the website, it was a gathering place for Italian anarchists exiled in France. Later it was owned by a woodworker and named after the wood with which he worked. The neighborhood is traditionally the area for furniture making, and this was a bistrot for the workers.

Now the restaurant is an utterly unpretentious spot with wonderful, creative market cuisine. There is a two course menu for 28 euros; three courses for 35 euros. At lunch there is a 13.50 two course menu, and I would love to try that.

There is only one waiter. He manages all the tables. When anyone orders the excellent looking platter of charcuterie, he takes the meats out and slices them and arranges them on a board before serving them. He comes and goes with bottles of wine and seems to be doing far too many jobs with no sign of having too much to do. I can see into the kitchen and watch the chef prepare the dishes. He rings a bell when each is ready, and the waiter comes to the kitchen to retrieve them.

For a starter I order lamb’s lettuce with marinated duck breast, pear in wine, mild blue cheese and shavings of foie gras confit. Then I continue with rabbit on a large mound of mixed wild mushrooms and a sauce made from foie gras and port. Both dishes are wonderful.

Le Bistrot d'Henri, 16 rue Princesse 75006, 01 46 33 51 12

This place was recommended to us by a Parisian co-worker of my husband and we have enjoyed several great meals there. Its on the small side, so I definitely recommend reservations.

Les Papilles
Pre Verre
Timbre

Thin

If you want a reataurant really out of the left field:

http://daysontheclaise.blogspot.com/2010/02/good-value-in-paris-part-3.html

Tante Marguerite
5, rue de BourgogneParis, France 75007
Phone: 01-45-51-79-42Reserve Online
Fax: 47-53-79-56

The late Bernard Loiseau's place, along with Tante Louise in the 8th.

Hey, it's Italian but one of our favorites. "Marco Polo" on Rue de Conde near the Odeon. Excellent food and great people watching.

Another favorite "L'Ilot Vache" on Rue St. Louis en Ile.

Although I've said this so often and I wouldn't call them "little known".

Thank you for all the responses to date!! It is very much appreciated.
I recognize when staying in the 5th or 6th arrond. many of the restaurants cater to a "tourist" clientele. 2 summers ago in Rome we sat down at a restaurant recommended by the concierge and found ourselves sitting next to a couple who lived 5 miles away from us in NY. Just trying to avoid a similar situation.

Found a great app for the Iphone. Escargo -- french menu translator!

Thanks again everyone, and keep em coming!

We liked Cafe la Grille Montorgueil on Rue Montorgueil in the 2nd - it is simple, good food, good prices and on our favorite market street - grab a sidewalk table it is not touristy at all. L'Escargot on the same street is very well known and highly recommended by many. It is upscale. There are many good restaurants on that street.

Bistrot Vivienne- 4 rue Des Petit Champs
Temps au Temps-13 rue Paul Bert

I'm surprised to hear rue Montorgueil described as not touristy. Last September, it was worse than rue Cler and Place du Tertre, and just as mobbed.

If this is your first trip to Paris, and for only four days, you'll be much too busy, rushing all over to see as much as possible, to think about traveling to specific or distant dining destinations. You'll likely have lunch on the run and hope for a nice meal somewhere between the metro stop and your hotel when you're too tired to drag yourselves any farther - especially if you encounter a spell of very hot weather.

Restaurants "cater to" any and all guests, and those off the tourist track are likely to have menus only in French, whereupon ordering for four, including two teenagers, could be a daunting endeavor.

In the nice weather, it's rather easy to choose appealing dining spots when there are plenty of people dining on the sidewalk/terrace all about. If what they're serving looks wonderful and smells fabulous, check the menu, then choose a table!

PS There are Indiana cafes all over Paris. Though a chain, the menu is extensive, the food high quality and beautifully presented, the prices reasonable. Your teens would probably really appreciate the menu, which favors southwestern (USA) cuisine - go figure!

We often drop in when we're in the mood for a terrific composed salad.

I've often thought , especially during the work week, you are going to find a lot more tourists dining out in the evening. After a busy day at the office the locals may just want to go home and relax!Some places also only have one waiter that speaks English well,so English speakers are seated in his section

djkbooks- of course there are tourists on Rue Montorgueil just as there are all over Paris. Our apartment was very near there and I would be on the street several times a day during our week-long stay. My impression is that I heard a far higher proportion of French being spoken among those walking along than other places such as Rue Cler. True it is crowded, but it is an old established and popular shopping street. Even Monet's painting of Rue Montorgueil shows it crowded.

bookmark

For me, it doesn't matter the proportion of French if you're wading through a sea of tourists in shorts with backpacks.

And, there certainly are plenty of old established market streets all over Paris without many tourists.

"if you're wading through a sea of tourists in shorts with backpacks."

Except during the week that I was there in early May, 2008, we rarely saw anyone fitting that description on Rue Montorgueil, and as I noted, we were there several times each day. Of course it was too cool for shorts in any case. I checked several photos that I took of the street and there is not a backpack in sight. Our impression was that there were not many tourists at all at that time except perhaps from other parts of France. We did sit near a couple from Germany at the restaurant that I recommended once. Apparently, your experience is different. Perhaps someone who lives in Paris can lend a more local observation than either of ours. Bottom line for us, we loved that street.

It's been two years but they're still there: La Cagouille (http://www.la-cagouille.fr/). A couple of blocks from Gare Montparnasse, tucked into the ground floor of a nondescript apartment building. We'd found it in the Zagat guide - had a very high Food rating - and didn't notice a tourist in the place. It's worth at least a glance at their website.

I find it interesting that a tourist objects to the presence of tourists or is is backpacks. Anyway, there are wonderful restaurants all over Paris that the French enjoy. Two favorites are Le Regalade in the 14th Arrondisement and L'Epi Dupin in the 6th. You will probably find tourists in each of them but you will also find Parisiens as the food is excellent. Whatever you do, stay away from the Rue Cler, charming but filled with tourists, many of them with backpacks!

We will be in Paris in October. What is your opinion of very popular Le Reminet in the 5th, I believe? Also, is Le Florimond in the 7th too touristy, or is it just good food, tourism or not? And for a third question, how about L'Ardoise in the 1st? We had a great lunch there 3 years ago, and while there appeared to be lots of business men, it didn't seem touristy.

Thank you.

nytravellers,

Le Bistrot d'Olivier, 13, Rue Quentin-Beauchart
75008 Paris
Tél : 0147207863

My favorite nor-tourist, locals mostly restaurant in Paris is Cafe Roussillon: Rue de Grenelle 186, Paris 75007.

Terrific salads, magret de canard and a phenomenal Cote de Boeuf for 2 cooked to perfection!..

Wines by the liter starting at 9 euros..

It is located at the corner of Rue Cler and Rue de Grenelle in the 7th.

Typo..sorry!..

I meant to say non-touristy restaurant...frequented by locals and people who work in the area. I have seen the guys who deliver the fish, meat, flowers, etc to the shops on Rue Cler eat at Cafe Roussillon. Rue Cler is a pedestrian only street between Av. La Motte Piquet and Rue de Grenelle

Rue Cler is a pedestrian only street between Av. La Motte Piquet and Rue de Grenelle

Rue Cler is also known as Rue Rick Steves. You can't find a more touristy place, especially one chock full of Americans. At least the 5th and 6th arrondissements have an international brew of visitors.

<<Except during the week that I was there in early May, 2008, we rarely saw anyone fitting that description on Rue Montorgueil, and as I noted, we were there several times each day.>>

Things often change dramatically once a place is mentioned in trips reports and on all the travel forums.

During our month in Paris in May there were only two restaurants we went to more thamn once--even though almost every one of them was good food and good value. Our two choices:

Le Buisson Ardent, almost across from the Jussieu metro

Aubergine, near our rental apartment in the 17e, at the corner of rue des Dames and rue des, close to the Place de Clichy metro Batignolles

Here it is, ungarbled:

During our month in Paris in May there were only two restaurants we went to more than once--even though almost every one of them was good food and good value. Our two choices:

Le Buisson Ardent, almost across from the Jussieu metro

Aubergine, near our rental apartment in the 17e, at the corner of rue des Dames and rue des Batignolles,close to the Place de Clichy metro

I don't know how 'unknown' they are but two of my favorites are Le Temps Perdu at 54 rue de Seine and Le Petit Zinc at 11 Rue Saint-Benoît.

d_claude_bear on Jun 14, 10 at 7:35pm
"Here it is, ungarbled:

During our month in Paris in May there were only two restaurants we went to more than once--even though almost every one of them was good food and good value. Our two choices:

Le Buisson Ardent, almost across from the Jussieu metro
"

Thanks Claude. We are planning a GTG for about 25 people in Oct and this was one of our choices since it's very near a friend's apt where we will be having drinks before heading out to dinner. They do have a lovely private room

Try Le Cigale Recamier for great food and people watching.

I agree with Michel_Paris about Bistrot du 7ieme. We ate there last year with our U.S. French teacher and fellow students who were traveling for 2 weeks in France. Our teacher made the reservation there and invited us to join the group. Delicious food, great service, a fun evening. We liked it so much that we returned there by ourselves - the only place where we ate twice during our two week stay in Paris.

avalon, would the apartment where you will have drinks before dinner happen to be known as "Truffaut?"

We went to LeFlorimond for lunch on Grace Joan's recommendation and loved it so much they allowed us to come back for dinner (even though they were fully booked, they squeezed in a table for us.) The food was fantastic and extremely reasonable and the owner, chef and waitstaff treated us like family, even coming over and kissing us on the cheek as we left. I will remember it fondly the rest of my life. Other reviews can be found on the web, specifically:
http://www.ourparisforum.com/index.cgi?board=restaurants&action=display&thread=408

You Do realize, I hope, that none of us who have really, really good experiences with "little known" great restos in Paris would ever publicize them on a public site on the internet like this, right?

I actually "found" Restaurant Le Florimond in the 7ème the very night it opened many years ago and raved about it on the internet, and it's probably one of the most publicized spots in Paris to eat these days, maybe in part because of me. I'll never do that again. I love the fact that I probably got the resto a fair bit of business, but I also am probably in part responsible for the fact that if you go there now, it's likely to be full of American diners. Not that big an issue, but not what I'm looking for when I eat out in Paris.

I keep my resto finds secret these days. Go find your own.

Iregeo, the Truffaut apartment was badly damaged in a fire in April and it won't be available until it is completely rebuilt. I read about it on the following thread, which links the more complete information on another forum.

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/fodorite-loses-apartment-in-paris-due-to-fire.cfm

Irego, no it won't be Doug's apartment . As Nikki said it was very badly damaged in a fire. It is another member of OPF that has just bought an apt. in Paris

StCirq and Maggi,
Yes, we do enjoy Le Florimond! I do make my reservations and for closer to 9:00 when I find mostly local area diners, not the tourists. They are earlier. Surprising, I have been when all were French! The same with Pasco's. I introduced some Parisian friends to it..about 9:00 when there and they did enjoy it! The table spacing is so great and unusual. My friends commented that they were not only all French, but 7th arrondissement French!

Joan

Jade123, can't you post the URL direct to the page that talks of the Japanese restaurant? Above URL took me just to a hotel booking site (?). I hope it is not intentional.

My visit to Bistrot du 7ieme (Travel Report)

Chose 20E menu (French /English menu)
Terrine de porc (big piece)
Escalope de veau + allumette fries (really good cream + mushroom sauce, not too rich)
Bread
½ bottle Vittel
½ bottle Saumur 2005 Cauleraines (?)
Espresso
Positano dessert (Chantilly, red, white balls of ice cream)
Total 35.30. Paid with VISA

Oh, I'm so sorry to hear that. I haven't read the thread you posted yet, but I do hope noone was injured.

Rue Cler is a pedestrian only street between Av. La Motte Piquet and Rue de Grenelle
"Rue Cler is also known as Rue Rick Steves."


After many visits to Paris, I finally walked over to Rue Cler last spring.
I don't get it; there are a zillion streets in Paris with more charm, nicer food, and fewer tourists.

I'm always impressed as h*ll with people who have a favorite restaurant in Paris, or anywhere in Europe, for that matter.

I do recall a really nice dinner where I had chicken and my sister had duck, and the restaurant's owner spoke very good English and, in fact had planned on being an English teacher until she realized she couldn't make any money that way. I don't have the foggiest idea of its name or location.

In fact, I can't remember the name of a single restaurant anywhere in Europe except for the one down the street from the hotel I usually stay at in Berlin.

Just thought I'd digress a bit.

Unlike St Cirq, I have no trouble sharing my favorite restaurants and helping owners become wildly successful. I like to support the business owners who work so hard and who have treated me well.

It is true that Le Florimond has become so popular it can't seem to say no. I think the owners are wonderfully sweet, and was extremely grateful when they once let me come in even though the kitchen was closed -- but if you want the best experience of the foos, I think its best to book for a fairly early dinner, because they do overbook and then run out of some things as the night wears on. I stopped going there only because of a run of experiences of being unable to get the evening specials later in the evening, which is when I generally like to eat my evening meal.

It doesn't bother me if people at other tables aren't speaking French so long as the food is good and the kitchen's not tapped out. In fact, if I'm not mistaken, gracejoan doesn't speak French!

Iregeo, I just mistakenly posted my response to you on the thread about the fire instead of this one. It said the following:

According to Truffaut's post there were twelve injuries- a fireman, a policeman, and ten others. Nobody was killed, which seems a miracle considering the fire was caused by an explosion in the middle of the night. The people who were staying in the rental apartment got out without injuries.

I started the thread it's up again (thanks to Nikki) in the europe board.

I'm another who no longer posts "finds" on travel forums And, I rarely patronize those places mentioned in all trip reports, on all the travel forums, in all the tour guides, any more, as most are not worth going out of your way and there are so many superior possibilities all over.

When many flock to places raved about on travel forums, things often change dramatically.

Last September, I took my brother down rue Cler, because he's a Rick Steves fan and was curious. It was very quiet! Several days later, however, when we walked down rue Montorgueil, it was mobbed! A sea of sneakers and backbacks. You could tell most were there just for a look-see, as the shops and sidewalk tables were not very full.