Young Couple Headed to Italy for the Biennale!
Dec 7th, 2014, 07:11 AM
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Young Couple Headed to Italy for the Biennale!
Hi everyone! I have enjoyed reading the posts so far and have found them quite helpful. My husband and I are planning a trip to Venice, Italy in early June and then extending our trip to Florence and Rome. I have a couple of question that I could use some help on though!
1. I've heard San Marco is a great place to stay in Venice but the Biennale takes place in Castello. Does anyone have a recommendation for a hotel that would be situated somewhere in the middle? Or if we stay in San Marco are we still close enough to the Biennale?
2. I have read that the Casa Howard is a good place to stay in both Florence and Venice. Any other recommendations?
3. Besides flight, lodging, insurance, and train trips, would an additional $150 per day ($75 each person) be a good amount for food and spending money? We aren't big spenders and we won't be buying a lot of souvenirs. Just a few things here and there.
4. What are the must do events and activities? We love art, culture and history...
Thank you all so much!
1. I've heard San Marco is a great place to stay in Venice but the Biennale takes place in Castello. Does anyone have a recommendation for a hotel that would be situated somewhere in the middle? Or if we stay in San Marco are we still close enough to the Biennale?
2. I have read that the Casa Howard is a good place to stay in both Florence and Venice. Any other recommendations?
3. Besides flight, lodging, insurance, and train trips, would an additional $150 per day ($75 each person) be a good amount for food and spending money? We aren't big spenders and we won't be buying a lot of souvenirs. Just a few things here and there.
4. What are the must do events and activities? We love art, culture and history...
Thank you all so much!
Dec 7th, 2014, 08:35 AM
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1. The Biennale exhibition takes place at the Giardini, the Arsenale and in various locations across the city of Venice. If you stay in a Castello accommodation, it might be easier (and cheaper) to walk to Giardini and Arsenale, but that all depends on the specific location of your "home." A home in Castello will most likely not be convenient to the various exhibit locations that are scattered throughout the city.
Most people pick a place they think they can afford. Every neighborhood in Venice can provide an amazing experience. If you have a great map and someone in your party is a very good map reader, you can walk anywhere in Venice. Even for tight budgets, it's smart to include enough for public transportation. If you have access to the vaporetti in Venice, you can visit any exhibition on the list with relative ease.
My favorite hotel on the eastern side of San Marco is the Metropole. If that's out of your budget, there are many other choices in the area closest to Giardini and Arsenale. Others here can help you with budget accommodations, if that is your need.
2. There is no Casa Howard in Venice.
3. $75-a-day could work for one meal, but it would not be quite enough for me. I prefer high quality cooking and always seek out specific restaurants that are recommended by the cooking community. That does not mean hyper-expensive or super "starred." I tend to eat at least one, 3-course meal per day in Italy. And I enjoy a different glass of wine with each course. The average cost for that will be somewhere between $80-$120, including a small gratuity.
4. It's a little early for the event calendar for June. Each city has its own tourist board website to offer up-and-coming information. As far as seeing the Top-10 list of each city, information that is easily searchable via Google, others will determine if they have the time to type out all that redundancy.
Most people pick a place they think they can afford. Every neighborhood in Venice can provide an amazing experience. If you have a great map and someone in your party is a very good map reader, you can walk anywhere in Venice. Even for tight budgets, it's smart to include enough for public transportation. If you have access to the vaporetti in Venice, you can visit any exhibition on the list with relative ease.
My favorite hotel on the eastern side of San Marco is the Metropole. If that's out of your budget, there are many other choices in the area closest to Giardini and Arsenale. Others here can help you with budget accommodations, if that is your need.
2. There is no Casa Howard in Venice.
3. $75-a-day could work for one meal, but it would not be quite enough for me. I prefer high quality cooking and always seek out specific restaurants that are recommended by the cooking community. That does not mean hyper-expensive or super "starred." I tend to eat at least one, 3-course meal per day in Italy. And I enjoy a different glass of wine with each course. The average cost for that will be somewhere between $80-$120, including a small gratuity.
4. It's a little early for the event calendar for June. Each city has its own tourist board website to offer up-and-coming information. As far as seeing the Top-10 list of each city, information that is easily searchable via Google, others will determine if they have the time to type out all that redundancy.
Dec 7th, 2014, 09:23 AM
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$75 per person - it it's to include all meals, sightseeing and local transit will mean that you need to be careful about eating and driking. You can certainly get a simple budget brakfast of coffee and pastry at almost any cafe (cheapest standing at the bar, more sitting at a table an even more if it is outdoors). But you will need to be careful about lunch (a slice of pizza, sandwich or something out of a market) if you want to have a sit down dinner with wine. Definitely look for family type places away from the major sights. And avoid at all costs places posting menus in 8 langauges or anyplace that shows pics of the food (the food will be both ba and expensive).
For perspective, we like to have one special meal in each city - not a MIchelin 3*, but a nice place - and allow $300 for 2. For a regular dinner - appetizer, main, shared dessert, wine and coffee at a more casuale restaurant (but not cafe or trattoria) we usually allow $100 and up for the two of us.
For perspective, we like to have one special meal in each city - not a MIchelin 3*, but a nice place - and allow $300 for 2. For a regular dinner - appetizer, main, shared dessert, wine and coffee at a more casuale restaurant (but not cafe or trattoria) we usually allow $100 and up for the two of us.
Dec 7th, 2014, 09:35 AM
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If you budget $150/day for the two of you, and occasionally eat picnic meals to keep the budget in line, you can probably do it. Have a 'slush fund' in your budget, just in case.
In Venice, I can recommend the Hotel Riva*, at Ponte dell’Angelo. Our room was in the corner, on the first floor (there is no elevator), overlooking the intersection of two small canals. Hotel Riva is a small, simple one-star hotel, very quaint and charming. Its lobby is welcoming, and its breakfast room is appealing, with both rooms having windows looking directly out on a little canal where gondoliers glide by every few minutes. It couldn’t be a better location, but it could have a larger bathroom and shower. The hotel is sparkling clean, with marble floors, wooden walls, and glass sconces.
http://www.hotelriva.it/
Another simple hotel is the Casa Rezzonico (which we had also considered for this visit, as its rates are in the range of the Hotel Riva), Dorsoduro, Fondamenta Gherardini 2813, www.casarezzonico.it. It is in a quiet, out-of-the-way location, near a small campo, close to the Accademia. It has an attractive garden area in the center, which some rooms overlook, and where breakfast buffet is served. A good budget choice.
Regarding location to the events, Venice is small enough that you will want to walk everywhere, and maybe not be too close to crowds.
In Florence, we liked the Relais Cavalcanti. a very charming little 'hotel', at Via Pellicceria, 2. It occupies one floor of a building located near the Uffizi gallery, in a very good central location. It's relatively new, with beautiful tile bathrooms, showers, etc. The rooms are very charming, and good-sized. It was 120 EUR for our double/twin, with private bath, which included a 10 EUR upgrade for the better view. Francesca did provide a 5 percent discount for payment in cash. No breakfast is served, but even better I think is that they have a beautiful little dining room/kitchen that is open 24/7 for guests. You have always available the makings for coffee, hot chocolate and tea, plus containers of pre-wrapped pastries and dessert cakes. That's about as much as you get in any Italian B&B for breakfast, and this way you can serve yourself whenever.
http://www.relaiscavalcanti.com/?lang=en
In Venice, I can recommend the Hotel Riva*, at Ponte dell’Angelo. Our room was in the corner, on the first floor (there is no elevator), overlooking the intersection of two small canals. Hotel Riva is a small, simple one-star hotel, very quaint and charming. Its lobby is welcoming, and its breakfast room is appealing, with both rooms having windows looking directly out on a little canal where gondoliers glide by every few minutes. It couldn’t be a better location, but it could have a larger bathroom and shower. The hotel is sparkling clean, with marble floors, wooden walls, and glass sconces.
http://www.hotelriva.it/
Another simple hotel is the Casa Rezzonico (which we had also considered for this visit, as its rates are in the range of the Hotel Riva), Dorsoduro, Fondamenta Gherardini 2813, www.casarezzonico.it. It is in a quiet, out-of-the-way location, near a small campo, close to the Accademia. It has an attractive garden area in the center, which some rooms overlook, and where breakfast buffet is served. A good budget choice.
Regarding location to the events, Venice is small enough that you will want to walk everywhere, and maybe not be too close to crowds.
In Florence, we liked the Relais Cavalcanti. a very charming little 'hotel', at Via Pellicceria, 2. It occupies one floor of a building located near the Uffizi gallery, in a very good central location. It's relatively new, with beautiful tile bathrooms, showers, etc. The rooms are very charming, and good-sized. It was 120 EUR for our double/twin, with private bath, which included a 10 EUR upgrade for the better view. Francesca did provide a 5 percent discount for payment in cash. No breakfast is served, but even better I think is that they have a beautiful little dining room/kitchen that is open 24/7 for guests. You have always available the makings for coffee, hot chocolate and tea, plus containers of pre-wrapped pastries and dessert cakes. That's about as much as you get in any Italian B&B for breakfast, and this way you can serve yourself whenever.
http://www.relaiscavalcanti.com/?lang=en
Dec 7th, 2014, 11:55 AM
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If you click on my user name, you will find several trip reports I've written during our visits to Venice.
The Biennales (Archi and Arts) are really enormous, both in content and geography. From memory, a two day entrance to the Archi Biennale was about 20 euro, and gave entry to the Giardini and the Arsenale, and along with those two venues, there were exhibits scattered all over Venice. You will do a LOT of walking.
A vaporetto pass for the time you are in Venice will more than pay for itself - while you can walk just about everywhere in Venice, a vap pass makes life a bit easier. Remember, you must swipe the pass every time you take a vaporetto.
I don't think it makes a great deal of difference where you stay in Venice, and proximity to the Giardini is not so important. That being said, Dorsoduro or Castello are probably more convenient than say Cannaregio. San Marco is more expensive generally, more crowded too.
In terms of costs, it makes sense to think in euro rather than dollars, particularly on this forum. There are so mant dollars (US, CAD, Aussie etc). 120 euro a day for two is do-able, but maybe a bit tight. You can buy an evening meal for two for about 40 euro, drinking the house wine, but it won't be the sort of meal that NYtraveller or NYC Food Snob would go for. But both of those posters enjoy a rather high end mode of travel, whereas our tastes are a bit more pedestrian.
Lunch - a slice of pizza "to go" will cost about three euro, at breakfast, a coffee and brioche will be about three euro, if you stand at the bar.
The Casa Rezzonice hotel, recommended by Tabernash, would be a good choice. We have not stayed there, but know the location very well. Easy to find, less than five minutes from the Ca' Rezzonico vap stop, and is in a lively location. Our favourite bar, the Ai Artisti, in Campo San Barnaba, is good, as is the Bar de Pugni, 50 metres from that hotel.
The Biennales (Archi and Arts) are really enormous, both in content and geography. From memory, a two day entrance to the Archi Biennale was about 20 euro, and gave entry to the Giardini and the Arsenale, and along with those two venues, there were exhibits scattered all over Venice. You will do a LOT of walking.
A vaporetto pass for the time you are in Venice will more than pay for itself - while you can walk just about everywhere in Venice, a vap pass makes life a bit easier. Remember, you must swipe the pass every time you take a vaporetto.
I don't think it makes a great deal of difference where you stay in Venice, and proximity to the Giardini is not so important. That being said, Dorsoduro or Castello are probably more convenient than say Cannaregio. San Marco is more expensive generally, more crowded too.
In terms of costs, it makes sense to think in euro rather than dollars, particularly on this forum. There are so mant dollars (US, CAD, Aussie etc). 120 euro a day for two is do-able, but maybe a bit tight. You can buy an evening meal for two for about 40 euro, drinking the house wine, but it won't be the sort of meal that NYtraveller or NYC Food Snob would go for. But both of those posters enjoy a rather high end mode of travel, whereas our tastes are a bit more pedestrian.
Lunch - a slice of pizza "to go" will cost about three euro, at breakfast, a coffee and brioche will be about three euro, if you stand at the bar.
The Casa Rezzonice hotel, recommended by Tabernash, would be a good choice. We have not stayed there, but know the location very well. Easy to find, less than five minutes from the Ca' Rezzonico vap stop, and is in a lively location. Our favourite bar, the Ai Artisti, in Campo San Barnaba, is good, as is the Bar de Pugni, 50 metres from that hotel.
Dec 7th, 2014, 12:38 PM
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I forgot to mention that the Hotel Riva also provides a simple breakfast of pastry and wonderful fresh coffee.
It's a great budget-saver to get breakfast included in your daily rate. Saves time, too.
It's a great budget-saver to get breakfast included in your daily rate. Saves time, too.
Dec 7th, 2014, 01:01 PM
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4. What are the must do events and activities? We love art, culture and history...>>>>
Where to start...
I will commit a total heresy here - in Venice, skip both the Doges Palace and the Basilica. The queue to enter can be very long, and the Doges Palace takes a couple of hours minimum to see. You can combine the Arts Biennale with really interesting venues. The Olivetti showroom in the Piazza will have some sort of display, and is a great space, architecture that says something about Frank Lloyd Wright, with Japanese touches. Designed by Carlo Scarpa, Venice's best known modern architect. The Venuzeala pavilion in the Giardine was also designed by Scarpa, and has just been renovated.
If there is something on at the Fortuny, don't miss it. The Fortuny is half house, half gallery, with the most eclectic items on display.
The Foundation Querini Stampalia, near Campo Maria Formosa is worth a visit. There is a good cafe there, interior designed by Scarpa, a garden of Zen-like simplicity and complexity, and there will be some sort of Biennale-thing happening. Entry to the cafe iarea is free, about five euro to go further, but you can glimpse the garden from the cafe.
Where to start...
I will commit a total heresy here - in Venice, skip both the Doges Palace and the Basilica. The queue to enter can be very long, and the Doges Palace takes a couple of hours minimum to see. You can combine the Arts Biennale with really interesting venues. The Olivetti showroom in the Piazza will have some sort of display, and is a great space, architecture that says something about Frank Lloyd Wright, with Japanese touches. Designed by Carlo Scarpa, Venice's best known modern architect. The Venuzeala pavilion in the Giardine was also designed by Scarpa, and has just been renovated.
If there is something on at the Fortuny, don't miss it. The Fortuny is half house, half gallery, with the most eclectic items on display.
The Foundation Querini Stampalia, near Campo Maria Formosa is worth a visit. There is a good cafe there, interior designed by Scarpa, a garden of Zen-like simplicity and complexity, and there will be some sort of Biennale-thing happening. Entry to the cafe iarea is free, about five euro to go further, but you can glimpse the garden from the cafe.
Dec 7th, 2014, 02:08 PM
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Carlo Scarpa is so 70's. Frank Lloyd Wright's architecture leaves me feeling very cold. I love, love, love the Doge's Palace. I can spend a whole day there and watch the sun set from their Western terrace. For me, St. Mark's Basilica <b>is</b> Venice. It's an amazing place with spectacular history. Who cares about lines if you may have only one visit to Venice?
How's that for a differing opinion?
How's that for a differing opinion?
Dec 7th, 2014, 03:13 PM
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Well, perhaps not quite all '70's. First work in 1923, last in 1978, the year of his death at age 72. A bit of Phillip Johnson in his work, or maybe it is a Scarpa influence in Johnson's work, as they were contemporaries. I can see Johnson's Glass House reflected in the Querini.
Venice is like that, I suppose, something for everyone, no matter what their interest. I'm looking forward to returning in mid-September, and immersing myself in the Arts Biennale. We have never been in Venice for the Arts Biennale so far.
It's easy and fun to get hooked on some sort of a plan or thread. One visit, we went on a Tiepolo journey, tracking his work all over Venice. The models in the paintings almost became friends, the same faces appearing all over Venice, also the same faces in T's "Banquet of Cleopatra" in our gallery in Melbourne.
Scarpa's work formed another thread, as did the outer islands, Mazzorbo, Torcello, La Certosa, Sant' Erasmo, San Lazzaro for the Armenians ( and a recently restored Tiepolo) and the Lazzaretto Nuovo.
Another thread comprised lesser museums, the Fortuny and the Palazzo Mocenigo, where there is a great costume collection, also a perfume museum which is excellent - it informs how perfumes are composed, different scents from Africa, India and the Levant. We are still enjoying the essential oils, amber and cashemire wood that we brought back.
Murano does not do it for us, though ...
Venice is like that, I suppose, something for everyone, no matter what their interest. I'm looking forward to returning in mid-September, and immersing myself in the Arts Biennale. We have never been in Venice for the Arts Biennale so far.
It's easy and fun to get hooked on some sort of a plan or thread. One visit, we went on a Tiepolo journey, tracking his work all over Venice. The models in the paintings almost became friends, the same faces appearing all over Venice, also the same faces in T's "Banquet of Cleopatra" in our gallery in Melbourne.
Scarpa's work formed another thread, as did the outer islands, Mazzorbo, Torcello, La Certosa, Sant' Erasmo, San Lazzaro for the Armenians ( and a recently restored Tiepolo) and the Lazzaretto Nuovo.
Another thread comprised lesser museums, the Fortuny and the Palazzo Mocenigo, where there is a great costume collection, also a perfume museum which is excellent - it informs how perfumes are composed, different scents from Africa, India and the Levant. We are still enjoying the essential oils, amber and cashemire wood that we brought back.
Murano does not do it for us, though ...
Dec 7th, 2014, 03:45 PM
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http://www.nytimes.com/2014/10/19/tr...ars-.html?_r=0
Murano is a very important place if you collect Venetian glass, are interested in the history of Venetian glass, or you desire to start your own collection. I'm a small collector, and I absolutely adore my collection. Several famous artisans still work on Murano, but sometimes I feel they've grown extremely temperamental.
I don't know the glass-tour groups at all. That's not my scene.
Scarpa, Wright, and Johnson are design geniuses. I can appreciate the talent, but their art is not my taste. I'd be OK if my home looked like the Doge's Palace. That's my idea of receiving a guest, using a little wow factor.
Murano is a very important place if you collect Venetian glass, are interested in the history of Venetian glass, or you desire to start your own collection. I'm a small collector, and I absolutely adore my collection. Several famous artisans still work on Murano, but sometimes I feel they've grown extremely temperamental.
I don't know the glass-tour groups at all. That's not my scene.
Scarpa, Wright, and Johnson are design geniuses. I can appreciate the talent, but their art is not my taste. I'd be OK if my home looked like the Doge's Palace. That's my idea of receiving a guest, using a little wow factor.
Dec 7th, 2014, 03:57 PM
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I'd be OK if my home looked like the Doge's Palace >>>>
The heating bill would cripple me!
There is an awful lot of Murano glass, the corollary being that there is a lot of awful Murano glass. However, we have bought some pretty special glasses by Carlo Moretti. Interesting, though. The first four that we bought are much finer than the second set of four. I suppose that the only thing that one can be certain of is that things will change.
The heating bill would cripple me!
There is an awful lot of Murano glass, the corollary being that there is a lot of awful Murano glass. However, we have bought some pretty special glasses by Carlo Moretti. Interesting, though. The first four that we bought are much finer than the second set of four. I suppose that the only thing that one can be certain of is that things will change.
Dec 9th, 2014, 04:33 AM
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Nothing to add but I would love to hear about some of NYCFS's go-to restaurants in Venice. I wonder if I have been to some already...
I use a few Venice resto apps right now. Elizabeth Minchilli has a good app, and I have Tap Venice, by Michela Scibilia.
I use a few Venice resto apps right now. Elizabeth Minchilli has a good app, and I have Tap Venice, by Michela Scibilia.
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