Wonton Soup, The Roman Way -- Trip Report for Capri, Amalfi, and Rome
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Wonton Soup, The Roman Way -- Trip Report for Capri, Amalfi, and Rome
Four of us ladies (me, Marian, Maritza, and Maritza's mom) had a lovely two week trip to Italy in mid-April. First, my thanks to all of you who offered advice, especially to ekscrunchy and SusanP for your wonderful trip reports. As the organizer for the trip I wanted to make certain I planned an appropriate itinerary and selected excellent hotels. All went very well. Research paid off.
The itinerary:
Arrived Rome Easter Monday, one night at the Best Western Hotel Canada.
Three nights at La Minerva on Capri
Four nights at Hotel Floridiana in Amalfi
Three nights at the Residenza Cellini in Rome
One night (alone) at the Hotel Opera Roma
I didn't keep a journal, so will reply on photos to take me through the activities. I'll start with our hotels:
Hotel Canada: www.hotelcanadaroma.com or you can go to the Best Western home site. We booked and paid a month in advance for superior category rooms at 168 euros per twin room. The location is near Termini. Very nice hotel. Spacious rooms, comfortable beds, nice linens, excellent breakfast (including buffalo mozzarella), terry cloth slippers and robes. The location is a bit out of the way for many of things to do in Rome, but is an excellent value if you are okay with using buses and metro to get around.
La Minerva: www.laminervacapri.com. This was the most beautiful hotel of the five on our itinerary. We reserved superior category rooms and were given rooms with huge patios and lounge furniture (third floor). We LOVED this hotel. The location is close to the center, but in a quiet spot along a road with other hotels. Breakfast was very good. I'm not an egg eater, but the other ladies enjoyed have scrambled eggs cooked on request. Also, the orange juice is fresh squeezed. They provided terry cloth slippers and robes. I now have two sets of slippers I brought home with me. We paid 200 euros a night for each room.
Hotel Floridiana (Amalfi): www.hotelfloridiana.it. I mention the town because there is also a Floridiana on Capri. This one is in Amalfi. This was a great find. They received an award for one of the best value hotels in the world on Tripadvisor for 2009. Well deserved. The rooms look like they were recently redecorated. Lots of silk. Marian and I had a superior room for 120 euros, and Maritza and her mom stayed in a suite for 130 euros. The suite is a duplex with a private whirlpool tub on the upper level. The bathrooms in both rooms were the surprises with blue tinted light -- I think you have to see it to appreciate it. They provide tissues in the bathrooms -- something I rarely see in Europe outside an American style hotel. Agnese and Eva were both wonderful; excellent service. Breakfast was good in a beautiful room. They have free internet service on their computer set up in the breakfast room. I was expecting to be woken up by the church bells, but the windows are sound proofed well enough that I didn't hear them. Note that there are some steep steps to climb to get to the hotel, but if you're on the Amalfi Coast, you should be prepared for steps regardless.
Residenza Cellini, Roma: www.residenzacellini.it. I found this hotel on Tripadvisor where it is rated highly. It also won an award from Tripadvisor for its service. We are not in agreement with them on the service issue. This hotel is also located near Termini, but closer to the Trevi Fountain. We reserved junior suites at 210 euros (cash payment). They are really regular rooms, but over-sized. That was what I expected, so that was fine. In fact, the rooms were larger than I expected. Very quiet. We had one room on the third floor, and one room on the fifth floor. The outdoor terrace is quite lovely and we sat out there one evening. It was nice to have a gathering place. My only complaints about the rooms are the coarse linens and the (whirlpool) bathtub is very slippery. Not big complaints, but noteworthy. Breakfast was good. The breakfast room is small as some on Tripadvisor mentioned, but we seemed to be the only ones in there each morning.
Regarding the service issues, I emailed them several weeks in advance asking them to call the Galleria Borghese for me with a question. They responded back quickly to tell me they would call and get right back with me. I never heard from them again. After waiting several days, I worked out my answer on my own. Marian had an early morning flight and asked the woman at the front desk one evening to look on the internet for train information for the Leonardo Express for the next morning. It was over an hour with no answer--the woman said she was still trying to locate the information Marian requested. I came back to the room to learn this and it took me less than 60 seconds to get the information on the (free) internet access they provide in the breakfast room. How hard is it to look up a train schedule in Rome for Rome? I would think they should know how to do this. BTW, the computer is removed from the breakfast room during the breakfast service.
Due to changes in who was traveling with us and who was going home when, I wound up not having a roommate for the last two nights. I bit the bullet and paid for my own room one night at Residenza Cellini -- they gave me a discount of 15 euros, down to 195 euros. For the last night I moved to Hotel Opera Roma.
Hotel Opera Roma: www.hoteloperaroma.com
I took a single room, about 6 feet by 8 feet with a private bathroom, 128 euros (cash payment). I knew this at the time of reservation, so no surprises. They did the best they could with that space, and even offered to loan me a computer with internet access for the evening in my room. I found the service at this hotel to be excellent. This is a small hotel, also near Termini. I didn't see any other rooms, but the corridors looked nice and freshly painted. This was the only hotel that provided a magnetic room key that I was able to keep with me. The bed was comfortable and the linen okay. My only complaint would be the lack of a sound-proofed window. It is possible that the standard rooms are better in that regard. They arranged car service for me to get back to the airport for 40 euros. A man nicely dressed in a suit arrived in a black mercedes, rather plush inside. This was a nice way to end the trip. He dropped me off at Terminal 5, handling my luggage from the hotel to the terminal. I had planned to take the Leonardo Express, but this was a much better way to go.
Well, I'm running out of time and will continue later. Sorry to be so wordy.
You can access my photos at http://gallery.me.com/twdcards#gallery. At least I think you can. This is a fairly new service for Apple's Mobileme subscribers. It has good points and bad points. I suggest you view using the slideshow, noted at the bottom of the screen. Then click on the pause button and scroll one at a time. Otherwise, the only time option is two seconds per photo, which is not long enough. There are other ways to view, but the slideshow gives the best picture. If the link doesn't work, you can access the albums one at a time at:
http://gallery.me.com/twdcards/100042 for Capri
http://gallery.me.com/twdcards/100058 for Amalfi
http://gallery.me.com/twdcards/100060 for Ravello
http://gallery.me.com/twdcards/100070 for Positano
http://gallery.me.com/twdcards/100143 for Rome
http://gallery.me.com/twdcards/100072 for house addresses (quirky, but cute)
Lots of photos of villas and churches. Enjoy, and I will report later on how we spent our time.
Diane
The itinerary:
Arrived Rome Easter Monday, one night at the Best Western Hotel Canada.
Three nights at La Minerva on Capri
Four nights at Hotel Floridiana in Amalfi
Three nights at the Residenza Cellini in Rome
One night (alone) at the Hotel Opera Roma
I didn't keep a journal, so will reply on photos to take me through the activities. I'll start with our hotels:
Hotel Canada: www.hotelcanadaroma.com or you can go to the Best Western home site. We booked and paid a month in advance for superior category rooms at 168 euros per twin room. The location is near Termini. Very nice hotel. Spacious rooms, comfortable beds, nice linens, excellent breakfast (including buffalo mozzarella), terry cloth slippers and robes. The location is a bit out of the way for many of things to do in Rome, but is an excellent value if you are okay with using buses and metro to get around.
La Minerva: www.laminervacapri.com. This was the most beautiful hotel of the five on our itinerary. We reserved superior category rooms and were given rooms with huge patios and lounge furniture (third floor). We LOVED this hotel. The location is close to the center, but in a quiet spot along a road with other hotels. Breakfast was very good. I'm not an egg eater, but the other ladies enjoyed have scrambled eggs cooked on request. Also, the orange juice is fresh squeezed. They provided terry cloth slippers and robes. I now have two sets of slippers I brought home with me. We paid 200 euros a night for each room.
Hotel Floridiana (Amalfi): www.hotelfloridiana.it. I mention the town because there is also a Floridiana on Capri. This one is in Amalfi. This was a great find. They received an award for one of the best value hotels in the world on Tripadvisor for 2009. Well deserved. The rooms look like they were recently redecorated. Lots of silk. Marian and I had a superior room for 120 euros, and Maritza and her mom stayed in a suite for 130 euros. The suite is a duplex with a private whirlpool tub on the upper level. The bathrooms in both rooms were the surprises with blue tinted light -- I think you have to see it to appreciate it. They provide tissues in the bathrooms -- something I rarely see in Europe outside an American style hotel. Agnese and Eva were both wonderful; excellent service. Breakfast was good in a beautiful room. They have free internet service on their computer set up in the breakfast room. I was expecting to be woken up by the church bells, but the windows are sound proofed well enough that I didn't hear them. Note that there are some steep steps to climb to get to the hotel, but if you're on the Amalfi Coast, you should be prepared for steps regardless.
Residenza Cellini, Roma: www.residenzacellini.it. I found this hotel on Tripadvisor where it is rated highly. It also won an award from Tripadvisor for its service. We are not in agreement with them on the service issue. This hotel is also located near Termini, but closer to the Trevi Fountain. We reserved junior suites at 210 euros (cash payment). They are really regular rooms, but over-sized. That was what I expected, so that was fine. In fact, the rooms were larger than I expected. Very quiet. We had one room on the third floor, and one room on the fifth floor. The outdoor terrace is quite lovely and we sat out there one evening. It was nice to have a gathering place. My only complaints about the rooms are the coarse linens and the (whirlpool) bathtub is very slippery. Not big complaints, but noteworthy. Breakfast was good. The breakfast room is small as some on Tripadvisor mentioned, but we seemed to be the only ones in there each morning.
Regarding the service issues, I emailed them several weeks in advance asking them to call the Galleria Borghese for me with a question. They responded back quickly to tell me they would call and get right back with me. I never heard from them again. After waiting several days, I worked out my answer on my own. Marian had an early morning flight and asked the woman at the front desk one evening to look on the internet for train information for the Leonardo Express for the next morning. It was over an hour with no answer--the woman said she was still trying to locate the information Marian requested. I came back to the room to learn this and it took me less than 60 seconds to get the information on the (free) internet access they provide in the breakfast room. How hard is it to look up a train schedule in Rome for Rome? I would think they should know how to do this. BTW, the computer is removed from the breakfast room during the breakfast service.
Due to changes in who was traveling with us and who was going home when, I wound up not having a roommate for the last two nights. I bit the bullet and paid for my own room one night at Residenza Cellini -- they gave me a discount of 15 euros, down to 195 euros. For the last night I moved to Hotel Opera Roma.
Hotel Opera Roma: www.hoteloperaroma.com
I took a single room, about 6 feet by 8 feet with a private bathroom, 128 euros (cash payment). I knew this at the time of reservation, so no surprises. They did the best they could with that space, and even offered to loan me a computer with internet access for the evening in my room. I found the service at this hotel to be excellent. This is a small hotel, also near Termini. I didn't see any other rooms, but the corridors looked nice and freshly painted. This was the only hotel that provided a magnetic room key that I was able to keep with me. The bed was comfortable and the linen okay. My only complaint would be the lack of a sound-proofed window. It is possible that the standard rooms are better in that regard. They arranged car service for me to get back to the airport for 40 euros. A man nicely dressed in a suit arrived in a black mercedes, rather plush inside. This was a nice way to end the trip. He dropped me off at Terminal 5, handling my luggage from the hotel to the terminal. I had planned to take the Leonardo Express, but this was a much better way to go.
Well, I'm running out of time and will continue later. Sorry to be so wordy.
You can access my photos at http://gallery.me.com/twdcards#gallery. At least I think you can. This is a fairly new service for Apple's Mobileme subscribers. It has good points and bad points. I suggest you view using the slideshow, noted at the bottom of the screen. Then click on the pause button and scroll one at a time. Otherwise, the only time option is two seconds per photo, which is not long enough. There are other ways to view, but the slideshow gives the best picture. If the link doesn't work, you can access the albums one at a time at:
http://gallery.me.com/twdcards/100042 for Capri
http://gallery.me.com/twdcards/100058 for Amalfi
http://gallery.me.com/twdcards/100060 for Ravello
http://gallery.me.com/twdcards/100070 for Positano
http://gallery.me.com/twdcards/100143 for Rome
http://gallery.me.com/twdcards/100072 for house addresses (quirky, but cute)
Lots of photos of villas and churches. Enjoy, and I will report later on how we spent our time.
Diane
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You're back! Welcome home. Great start to the report! Your photos are dreamy. Fabulous! Looks like you had great weather, too!
Already I have a question: I booked a B&B in Anacapri for two nights, but I am tempted by the Minerva. Should I reconsider?
I am eagerly awaiting all of the details!
Already I have a question: I booked a B&B in Anacapri for two nights, but I am tempted by the Minerva. Should I reconsider?
I am eagerly awaiting all of the details!
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Hi ekscrunchy. Weather was good and bad. At least we had very little rain; the only real rain was while we were at Pompeii. I debated about staying in Capri or Anacapri. I think Capri worked better for us. It depends on what you want to do. Keep in mind that it is difficult to get a bus sometimes from Anacapri. Someone on this board recommended catching the bus at the turn-around point instead of the main bus stop, but I didn't know where that was. The chairlift was closed -- my biggest disappointment of the trip. Villa San Michele and the church were highlights -- both in Anacapri. Because we didn't spend much in Anacapri, it's hard for me to comment. There is much exploring to do in Capri, so I would stay at La Minerva again should I go back. Hope that helps.
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I wasn't sure folks were interested, but I will continue, especially since I didn't take notes and this will be for my records as well.
We flew out of LAX, I connected in DC on United, Marian through Atlanta on Delta, and Maritza and Mommie through Chicago on American. I had a business class ticket with points. Maritza and Mommie picked up tickets for $600 each -- great deal! We departed within 90 minutes of each other and landed early morning within 90 minutes of each with no delays. BTW, we do carry-on. We all had the same model of 20" Heys suitcase. I would have posted a photo of the four of us posed with our cases, but the ladies don't like having their photos published. Upon arriving in Rome we caught a taxi (metered, of course) to our hotel for about 60 euros. We were approached by others asking if we needed transportation, but we knew enough to take a metered cab.
This was a lazy day to get over jetlag. Fortunately, our rooms were ready and we settled in to the Best Western Hotel Canada. Lovely hotel. We stopped for lunch near the hotel (food not worth mentioning) and then took the metro to the top of the Spanish Steps. I knew enough to start at the top. From there we walked to the Trevi Fountain, and from there to the Pantheon, but it was closed. Fading, the ladies took a taxi back to the hotel and I wandered to the Piazza Navona. The Piazza became one of my favorite spots in Rome. It was so full of life with restaurants, fountains, and street performers. I'm so glad I continued on to this spot.
The next day we had breakfast (gotta love that buffalo mozzarella), repacked and headed out to Termini where we caught a train to Naples. There are machines at Termini to purchase tickets, but we choose to wait a short time in line to purchase from a live person. In Naples we took a taxi to the port just in time to catch a hydrofoil to Capri. Another taxi at Capri harbor (everything is affordable when split among four people) up to Capri town. There are no cars allowed in the town, and taxis can take you only so far. We knew there were luggage porters in the piazza who would take our luggage to our hotel for 4 euros each, but we didn't see them, so we dragged our luggage all the way to La Minerva (at least it was downhill). Chalk one up for carry-on luggage. Alternatively, you can pay 10 euros to a luggage porter at the harbor and take the funicular up for (I think) 1.40 euros.
A note about Termini in Rome. It is one of the nicest train stations I've seen in a long time. Lots of shops on two levels, along with places to eat. There are at least two pharmacies, and we visited all of them. I stopped in on day one for a tube of Voltarene--the magic anti-inflamatory cream. Great stuff. It did well for me in Paris, and it did well for me on this trip.
We flew out of LAX, I connected in DC on United, Marian through Atlanta on Delta, and Maritza and Mommie through Chicago on American. I had a business class ticket with points. Maritza and Mommie picked up tickets for $600 each -- great deal! We departed within 90 minutes of each other and landed early morning within 90 minutes of each with no delays. BTW, we do carry-on. We all had the same model of 20" Heys suitcase. I would have posted a photo of the four of us posed with our cases, but the ladies don't like having their photos published. Upon arriving in Rome we caught a taxi (metered, of course) to our hotel for about 60 euros. We were approached by others asking if we needed transportation, but we knew enough to take a metered cab.
This was a lazy day to get over jetlag. Fortunately, our rooms were ready and we settled in to the Best Western Hotel Canada. Lovely hotel. We stopped for lunch near the hotel (food not worth mentioning) and then took the metro to the top of the Spanish Steps. I knew enough to start at the top. From there we walked to the Trevi Fountain, and from there to the Pantheon, but it was closed. Fading, the ladies took a taxi back to the hotel and I wandered to the Piazza Navona. The Piazza became one of my favorite spots in Rome. It was so full of life with restaurants, fountains, and street performers. I'm so glad I continued on to this spot.
The next day we had breakfast (gotta love that buffalo mozzarella), repacked and headed out to Termini where we caught a train to Naples. There are machines at Termini to purchase tickets, but we choose to wait a short time in line to purchase from a live person. In Naples we took a taxi to the port just in time to catch a hydrofoil to Capri. Another taxi at Capri harbor (everything is affordable when split among four people) up to Capri town. There are no cars allowed in the town, and taxis can take you only so far. We knew there were luggage porters in the piazza who would take our luggage to our hotel for 4 euros each, but we didn't see them, so we dragged our luggage all the way to La Minerva (at least it was downhill). Chalk one up for carry-on luggage. Alternatively, you can pay 10 euros to a luggage porter at the harbor and take the funicular up for (I think) 1.40 euros.
A note about Termini in Rome. It is one of the nicest train stations I've seen in a long time. Lots of shops on two levels, along with places to eat. There are at least two pharmacies, and we visited all of them. I stopped in on day one for a tube of Voltarene--the magic anti-inflamatory cream. Great stuff. It did well for me in Paris, and it did well for me on this trip.
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I must mention that Maritza's mom substituted for someone who had to back out of the trip about three weeks prior. Mommie turned 79 two days before we left for Rome, and I was amazed that she was able to do everything we did. "Mommie, would you like to sit down and rest?" Her reply was always, "No, let's keep going." Add to that that she is a darling woman. God bless her.
I mentioned a lot about La Minerva earlier. I'll only add that we loved this hotel. What a find! I can't think of a single complaint. We settled in and wandered around Capri. I knew about the high-end shopping, but you're more likely to spot me in Costco than Versace. My purchases on the island consisted of a kitchen magnet and a tacky hat that sported "Capri" across the top. I lost my job six weeks before the trip, but I don't think I would have parted with my money if I had remained employed. The ladies did a little jewelry shopping. We have different priorities. Mine is photography.
We lunched at Villa Verde, Vico Sella Orta, 6. This restaurant is down a side road. I remember a good Insalada Caprese. Wandered the town some more, and settled into dinner at Buca di Bacco, Via Longano, 35. I remember enjoying my dinner, but I can't remember what we had. I must say that I enjoyed the food on this trip, but it did not live up to the meals we had in Tuscany and Umbria three years ago.
The next day we took the bus to Anacapri with our first stop (after browsing the many shops along the way) was the Villa San Michele. I did not read "The Story of San Michele," but I will be stopping at the library for a copy soon. Beautiful gardens and view. It was a bit hazy; in fact, it was hazy/cloudy a good amount of the trip. All that white sky was bad for my landscape shots, but great for many others. Then we headed to the chairlift. This was one of the main things I wanted to do on the island, so you can just imagine my disappointment to learn that it closed for repairs several days before we arrived and it didn't look like it would operational for some time.
I can be consoled with food, so we headed to La Rondinella, Via G. Orlandi. I don't have the exact address, but it was quite a bit down the main road until you come to an area that appears more for locals than for tourists. This restaurant was recommended by someone on this board. It was okay, but I can't recommend a special trip for it.
I mentioned a lot about La Minerva earlier. I'll only add that we loved this hotel. What a find! I can't think of a single complaint. We settled in and wandered around Capri. I knew about the high-end shopping, but you're more likely to spot me in Costco than Versace. My purchases on the island consisted of a kitchen magnet and a tacky hat that sported "Capri" across the top. I lost my job six weeks before the trip, but I don't think I would have parted with my money if I had remained employed. The ladies did a little jewelry shopping. We have different priorities. Mine is photography.
We lunched at Villa Verde, Vico Sella Orta, 6. This restaurant is down a side road. I remember a good Insalada Caprese. Wandered the town some more, and settled into dinner at Buca di Bacco, Via Longano, 35. I remember enjoying my dinner, but I can't remember what we had. I must say that I enjoyed the food on this trip, but it did not live up to the meals we had in Tuscany and Umbria three years ago.
The next day we took the bus to Anacapri with our first stop (after browsing the many shops along the way) was the Villa San Michele. I did not read "The Story of San Michele," but I will be stopping at the library for a copy soon. Beautiful gardens and view. It was a bit hazy; in fact, it was hazy/cloudy a good amount of the trip. All that white sky was bad for my landscape shots, but great for many others. Then we headed to the chairlift. This was one of the main things I wanted to do on the island, so you can just imagine my disappointment to learn that it closed for repairs several days before we arrived and it didn't look like it would operational for some time.
I can be consoled with food, so we headed to La Rondinella, Via G. Orlandi. I don't have the exact address, but it was quite a bit down the main road until you come to an area that appears more for locals than for tourists. This restaurant was recommended by someone on this board. It was okay, but I can't recommend a special trip for it.
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After a long, leisurely lunch, we stopped into the Church of San Michele. Note that the church is not near the Villa San Michele. I knew about the floor of majolica tiles. It was really beautiful. Photographers, note that they ask you not to use your flash. The shots on my website were taken from the second floor where I was able to balance the camera on a ledge and use a remote shutter release, or I would never have gotten the detail I did. The remote shutter release came in handy many times as the majority of churches we entered do not allow flashes.
The bus back to Capri. We were there off-season, yet the buses were crowded and people were not always polite; mostly tourists, BTW. The tip was to catch the bus where the bus turns around and not in the main square. We didn't do that, but I highly recommend you find out where that is and use the advice...or take a taxi back.
The driving here, as on the Amalfi Coast, can be compared with dancing. The drivers know their steps well and they dance with precession and great skill. I saw one episode of "chicken" on the road from Ravello to Amalfi where the bus driver won. I caught it on video.
Our evening ended with dinner at da Giorgio, Via Roma, 34. This is near where the buses stop. While I'm thinking of it, I found a laundry service up a long flight of stairs across the street from da Giorgio. Anyway, we enjoyed our dinner here so much we made a reservation for the following night. I splurged on an entree of beef cooked in a wine sauce that was outstanding. The following evening I followed the advice I had heard a couple of times not to use the menu, but to give the water some idea of what I want and let them bring me something possibly off the menu. I ordered a pasta with calamari. I like pasta and I like calamari, but I wasn't crazy for the dish. The other ladies enjoyed their dinners both evenings. I don't remember what we paid, but it was middle-of-the-road in cost.
We had very good gelato on Capri. One place is named Embassy, where we had gelato twice. The other, of course I don't remember the name, is off the main square near the lemonade stand. I had marvelous gelato of zuppa inglese.
It is now after midnight and I must call it a night. I will add more tomorrow. I hope I'm being helpful and that you are enjoying the photos.
The bus back to Capri. We were there off-season, yet the buses were crowded and people were not always polite; mostly tourists, BTW. The tip was to catch the bus where the bus turns around and not in the main square. We didn't do that, but I highly recommend you find out where that is and use the advice...or take a taxi back.
The driving here, as on the Amalfi Coast, can be compared with dancing. The drivers know their steps well and they dance with precession and great skill. I saw one episode of "chicken" on the road from Ravello to Amalfi where the bus driver won. I caught it on video.
Our evening ended with dinner at da Giorgio, Via Roma, 34. This is near where the buses stop. While I'm thinking of it, I found a laundry service up a long flight of stairs across the street from da Giorgio. Anyway, we enjoyed our dinner here so much we made a reservation for the following night. I splurged on an entree of beef cooked in a wine sauce that was outstanding. The following evening I followed the advice I had heard a couple of times not to use the menu, but to give the water some idea of what I want and let them bring me something possibly off the menu. I ordered a pasta with calamari. I like pasta and I like calamari, but I wasn't crazy for the dish. The other ladies enjoyed their dinners both evenings. I don't remember what we paid, but it was middle-of-the-road in cost.
We had very good gelato on Capri. One place is named Embassy, where we had gelato twice. The other, of course I don't remember the name, is off the main square near the lemonade stand. I had marvelous gelato of zuppa inglese.
It is now after midnight and I must call it a night. I will add more tomorrow. I hope I'm being helpful and that you are enjoying the photos.
#14
luvtotravel, great photos!!! And thanx for the informative report. We'll be doing the same thing as you, going from Rome to Capri, except we'll be doing that as soon as we land at FCO. Long day, I know....
Did you exchange money via ATM at FCO and were there any issues? Any tips to catching a cab from the Naples train station to the port and how much should we expect to pay? Which port did you use? How did you figure out which of the various hydrofoil/ferry services to use and their departure times? Were the people selling the train tickets to Naples and the hydrofoil tickets to Capri well versed in English? Did you have a Plan B for Naples in case the weather wasn't permitting trips to Capri?
Thanks for your help.
Did you exchange money via ATM at FCO and were there any issues? Any tips to catching a cab from the Naples train station to the port and how much should we expect to pay? Which port did you use? How did you figure out which of the various hydrofoil/ferry services to use and their departure times? Were the people selling the train tickets to Naples and the hydrofoil tickets to Capri well versed in English? Did you have a Plan B for Naples in case the weather wasn't permitting trips to Capri?
Thanks for your help.
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dcd, each of us had a small amount of euros, so we did not exchange at the airport ATM; typically that is what we do. There are some exchange booths at the airport, but hold out for the ATM machine. There were many ATMs at each of our destinations. Finding an ATM was never a problem. Just make sure the emblems on the back of your card match one of the emblems on the ATM. I called my credit union and learned I could withdraw up to $300, but some machines will limit you to a smaller amount. If it doesn't work for the amount you select, try again at a smaller amount. I got a good rate of exchange for my dollars with my credit union not charging transaction fees. My bank charged 1% with no other transaction fee, also at a good rate of exchange. I think this was a better option over credit cards as the credit card companies charged the same rate of exchange, but charged about 3% for the privilege.
Catching a taxi from the Naples train station was a no brainer. As we went outside there was a taxi stand. Be sure the meter is turned on and ask about how much you can expect to pay before you enter the taxi. The cost should be in the area of 12 euros. Not sure if there is an extra charge for luggage, but always ask. I don't remember which port we used. The taxi driver seemed to know where to take us. It was all so easy there was nothing specific to remember. There is more than one company going between Naples and Capri. We just happened to catch one that was departing soon after we arrived. The ride to Capri was about 40 minutes and cost about 15 euros per person. We made sure it was a hydrofoil rather than a ferry as the hydrofoil travels much faster than a ferry for an insignificant amount more.
I speak only English. Many signs are written in Italian and English. Also, many people speak English quite well. Maritza speaks Spanish and would sometimes converse that way. Italian and Spanish are similar. When we got to the counter at the port in Naples to purchase our tickets there was a man outside the counter offering advice. I think he was looking for a tip.
Did we have a Plan B in case weather wasn't permitting trips to Capri? No. We had hotel reservations that were, at that point, confirmed and guaranteed. I was told the boats between Naples and Capri always run. I was concerned about transportation because the road between Positano and Amalfi was closed for a while and I was concerned about how we would get from Capri to Amalfi. The boat from Capri to Amalfi could be canceled "due to bad weather." Then, we would need to get to Sorrento or Naples by boat and then other public transportation to Amalfi. With the road closed, we would have needed to get to Salerno, and that would have been a long day. As it turned out, there were two ferries and one hydrofoil running that evening between Capri and Amalfi. We took the hydrofoil and it took only about 30 minutes at (I think) 17 euros per person. The road opened again about two weeks before our trip, so all my worry about how to get from Capri to Amalfi was gone. I'll add that I also wondered how this would all work, and it was rather simple.
bon_voyage, about the shower at La Minerva. We had a bathtub, not a standing shower. It was a little slippery, but everyone managed to shower each day without incident. La Minerva is a wonderful choice and IMO an excellent value. We were there off-season and paid 200 euros. I don't know what they will charge in the height of the season, so we received a good value.
Catching a taxi from the Naples train station was a no brainer. As we went outside there was a taxi stand. Be sure the meter is turned on and ask about how much you can expect to pay before you enter the taxi. The cost should be in the area of 12 euros. Not sure if there is an extra charge for luggage, but always ask. I don't remember which port we used. The taxi driver seemed to know where to take us. It was all so easy there was nothing specific to remember. There is more than one company going between Naples and Capri. We just happened to catch one that was departing soon after we arrived. The ride to Capri was about 40 minutes and cost about 15 euros per person. We made sure it was a hydrofoil rather than a ferry as the hydrofoil travels much faster than a ferry for an insignificant amount more.
I speak only English. Many signs are written in Italian and English. Also, many people speak English quite well. Maritza speaks Spanish and would sometimes converse that way. Italian and Spanish are similar. When we got to the counter at the port in Naples to purchase our tickets there was a man outside the counter offering advice. I think he was looking for a tip.
Did we have a Plan B in case weather wasn't permitting trips to Capri? No. We had hotel reservations that were, at that point, confirmed and guaranteed. I was told the boats between Naples and Capri always run. I was concerned about transportation because the road between Positano and Amalfi was closed for a while and I was concerned about how we would get from Capri to Amalfi. The boat from Capri to Amalfi could be canceled "due to bad weather." Then, we would need to get to Sorrento or Naples by boat and then other public transportation to Amalfi. With the road closed, we would have needed to get to Salerno, and that would have been a long day. As it turned out, there were two ferries and one hydrofoil running that evening between Capri and Amalfi. We took the hydrofoil and it took only about 30 minutes at (I think) 17 euros per person. The road opened again about two weeks before our trip, so all my worry about how to get from Capri to Amalfi was gone. I'll add that I also wondered how this would all work, and it was rather simple.
bon_voyage, about the shower at La Minerva. We had a bathtub, not a standing shower. It was a little slippery, but everyone managed to shower each day without incident. La Minerva is a wonderful choice and IMO an excellent value. We were there off-season and paid 200 euros. I don't know what they will charge in the height of the season, so we received a good value.
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For anyone interested, I added an new album to my photos showing our 20" carry-on suitcases. http://gallery.me.com/twdcards#gallery
For our photographers, there were two items I purchased on ebay that I liked having on the trip. The first is a screen protector for my camera. I don't like walking about with my camera in a bag and I didn't want the screen to get scratched. You can do a search on ebay for screen protector under cameras. I bought one for my Canon G10 from tek_to_you for $4, shipping inclusive. Great product; can't even tell it's there, and it did protect the screen from all the bumps by hanging on my shoulder. It is supposed to be removable and washable, but I haven't needed to do that yet.
The second item is a cheat sheet for my camera. I don't have a simple point-and-shoot, and the instruction booklet is bulky; I didn't want to carry it with me each day. The cheat sheet is a one-page, laminated, double-sided printed sheet with shortcuts to how to operate my camera. I carried this with me all day. Another good investment. I think I paid, with shipping, about $10 for it.
For our photographers, there were two items I purchased on ebay that I liked having on the trip. The first is a screen protector for my camera. I don't like walking about with my camera in a bag and I didn't want the screen to get scratched. You can do a search on ebay for screen protector under cameras. I bought one for my Canon G10 from tek_to_you for $4, shipping inclusive. Great product; can't even tell it's there, and it did protect the screen from all the bumps by hanging on my shoulder. It is supposed to be removable and washable, but I haven't needed to do that yet.
The second item is a cheat sheet for my camera. I don't have a simple point-and-shoot, and the instruction booklet is bulky; I didn't want to carry it with me each day. The cheat sheet is a one-page, laminated, double-sided printed sheet with shortcuts to how to operate my camera. I carried this with me all day. Another good investment. I think I paid, with shipping, about $10 for it.
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About motion sickness. We were prepared for both travel on water and travel on the curvy roads of the Amalfi Coast by having ginger tea in the morning or by having ginger candy prior to boarding a boat. We also sometimes wore acupressure wrist bands (sold at sporting goods stores). We all did well and no one had motion sickness at any time; in fact, taking boats became a highlight.
Back to the trip, on our last full day on Capri we took a boat ride around the island with a stop at the Blue Grotto. We took the funicular to the harbor where there is a little building in the middle of the boats selling tickets. We had the choice of a ride around the island with a stop at the Grotto or a ride to the Grotto only. We took the full ride. I understand they stop for swimming on some of these rides, but this was early in the season and stopping for a swim was not offered, and that was fine with us. We enjoyed the ride a lot. When they get to the Grotto there are rowboats waiting and passengers must transfer from the larger (not really large) boat to the rowboat. We were bobbing up and down a lot and I passed on the Blue Grotto (I injured myself getting out of a boat in Thailand years ago). Marian and Maritza were delighted with their visit to the Blue Grotto. Again because we were early in the season, there was almost no wait at all for them to transfer to a rowboat or enter the cave. I highly recommend taking the boat ride around the island. Have your hotel call down to get the time schedules so you don't literally miss the boat.
We reluctantly left Capri the next day. The hotel held our luggage while we were out wandering. They called the luggage service and our bags were picked up at the time we requested and brought to the piazza. This was good as it is somewhat uphill from the hotel to the piazza. You have the choice of having your bags taken to the piazza (4 euro) or the harbor (10 euro), it's just less expensive to pick up your bag at the piazza and take the funicular down. We saved 18 euros among the four of us by picking up our bags at the piazza. Chalk another one up to traveling with carry-on. The funicular, that we took many six times, was never crowded. If it is crowded, they might frown on a lot of luggage going on and they request you pay for each large bag. We didn't consider any of our bags large and did not pay the extra. Speaking of crowds, it is true that the town is busy during the day and then is very quiet after the day trippers leave.
This really was a day to just wander the back streets and enjoy the serenity. I stumbled upon the Hotel Luna that had beautiful wisteria along the entrance. Then to the Gardens of Augustus. The garden itself is small, but up a level gives you beautiful views. I then wandered along the street that leads to the Marriott Hotel, and another that goes quite a ways to just overlooking the Faraglioni Rocks. Three nights was about right for the island, although I would not have objected to one or two nights longer. I would have liked a little more time to explore Anacapri.
I remembered what I had for dinner at Buca di Bacco. There is a photo on my website under Capri of a seafood pasta. That was my dish and it was very good.
Back to the trip, on our last full day on Capri we took a boat ride around the island with a stop at the Blue Grotto. We took the funicular to the harbor where there is a little building in the middle of the boats selling tickets. We had the choice of a ride around the island with a stop at the Grotto or a ride to the Grotto only. We took the full ride. I understand they stop for swimming on some of these rides, but this was early in the season and stopping for a swim was not offered, and that was fine with us. We enjoyed the ride a lot. When they get to the Grotto there are rowboats waiting and passengers must transfer from the larger (not really large) boat to the rowboat. We were bobbing up and down a lot and I passed on the Blue Grotto (I injured myself getting out of a boat in Thailand years ago). Marian and Maritza were delighted with their visit to the Blue Grotto. Again because we were early in the season, there was almost no wait at all for them to transfer to a rowboat or enter the cave. I highly recommend taking the boat ride around the island. Have your hotel call down to get the time schedules so you don't literally miss the boat.
We reluctantly left Capri the next day. The hotel held our luggage while we were out wandering. They called the luggage service and our bags were picked up at the time we requested and brought to the piazza. This was good as it is somewhat uphill from the hotel to the piazza. You have the choice of having your bags taken to the piazza (4 euro) or the harbor (10 euro), it's just less expensive to pick up your bag at the piazza and take the funicular down. We saved 18 euros among the four of us by picking up our bags at the piazza. Chalk another one up to traveling with carry-on. The funicular, that we took many six times, was never crowded. If it is crowded, they might frown on a lot of luggage going on and they request you pay for each large bag. We didn't consider any of our bags large and did not pay the extra. Speaking of crowds, it is true that the town is busy during the day and then is very quiet after the day trippers leave.
This really was a day to just wander the back streets and enjoy the serenity. I stumbled upon the Hotel Luna that had beautiful wisteria along the entrance. Then to the Gardens of Augustus. The garden itself is small, but up a level gives you beautiful views. I then wandered along the street that leads to the Marriott Hotel, and another that goes quite a ways to just overlooking the Faraglioni Rocks. Three nights was about right for the island, although I would not have objected to one or two nights longer. I would have liked a little more time to explore Anacapri.
I remembered what I had for dinner at Buca di Bacco. There is a photo on my website under Capri of a seafood pasta. That was my dish and it was very good.
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Forgot to mention that we had lunch one day at Isidoro, recommended by La Minerva. It is near the Piazza. The menu photo on my website for Capri is from Isidoro. I had mushroom risotto at 12 euro that was good, but for me expensive for lunch. Prices on Capri were a bit high for food, but you must remember that you are in a luxury location and everything must be brought over by boat. There was a cover charge at every restaurant of 2 or 3 euros for the place setting, bread, and I really don't know what else. One restaurant charged us a higher cover charge for sitting outside rather than inside. Some restaurants included a percentage service charge that we assumed was the gratuity. I hope it was as we left only a little over that. We left tips if there was no service charge noted on the bill, although not as high as we tip here in the States. I hope someone else chimes in here on the proper etiquette. When our waiter at da Giorgio brought the bill he presented it singing Happy Birthday. He did it again the next night, but it didn't seem so charming the second time.
I'll take this time to talk about bathrooms. I'm impressed with how lovely the bathrooms were at all our hotels. In fact, because they are so nice I was surprised at the public bathrooms. There would be a bowl, but no toilet seat. What's with that? Some facilities charged 50 cents, some charged nothing, and one place asked to leave whatever you wish. This was for the entire trip, not just Capri. While on Capri I stopped into a 5-star hotel and used their restroom. I tend to do this wherever I am. The more elegant the hotel, the nicer the restroom. Each toilet seemed to flush differently. It might be a push on a lever, many times with a choice of a little flush or a big flush, or it might be a button to push or something else. Here in the States we are a bit boring with our flush handles, I think. The sinks in Italy were equally interesting -- maybe a lever, maybe a button on the floor, etc. Some restaurants have one bathroom for both men and women. You know the expression, "When in Rome..."
I'll take this time to talk about bathrooms. I'm impressed with how lovely the bathrooms were at all our hotels. In fact, because they are so nice I was surprised at the public bathrooms. There would be a bowl, but no toilet seat. What's with that? Some facilities charged 50 cents, some charged nothing, and one place asked to leave whatever you wish. This was for the entire trip, not just Capri. While on Capri I stopped into a 5-star hotel and used their restroom. I tend to do this wherever I am. The more elegant the hotel, the nicer the restroom. Each toilet seemed to flush differently. It might be a push on a lever, many times with a choice of a little flush or a big flush, or it might be a button to push or something else. Here in the States we are a bit boring with our flush handles, I think. The sinks in Italy were equally interesting -- maybe a lever, maybe a button on the floor, etc. Some restaurants have one bathroom for both men and women. You know the expression, "When in Rome..."