Wissembourg (Alsace) Trip Report

Just a quick note to report back on our recent Valentine's Week-end jaunt over the border to Wissembourg, France.

Wissembourg is a romantic haven in the calm of winter. Nothing really to do but catch the simple Saturday morning market, have some great meals at any of the numerous and excellent eateries and discover the charm of historic nooks and crannies as snow flakes fall. Relax, nap, watch some Olympics.

We did venture up and over the mountain to Lembach to try out the Auberge du Cheval Blanc, with Fernan Mischler, chef. Saturday lunch, it was a beautiful easy drive,and we enjoyed trying the 75 euros Menu "Gourmand". The quality of food was superb, with each of us trying one of the two choices per course; my only critique would be that of almost every course, one of the dishes had a creamy or foamy foie gras based sauce. If it wasn't the exact same sauce, it was so close as to be very hard to distinguish it from the last sauce. I'm also not a fan of the "mousse/foam" fad, though I love foie gras. I did appreciate their wide selection of wine by the glass, at relatively reasonable prices. We let the sommelier choose for us a glass that would harmonize with the food, and were very pleased with his choices: Pinot Gris "Weingarten" 2007 Reibel and Pinot Noir 2007 Kuentz-Bas.

Ambiance was elegant, service spot-on without making one uncomfortable. We were dressed rather informally as we had packed light, but were given the same attentive care as those in suits/ties. Maitre d' had a great sense of humor. My husband swore he saw 18 people in the kitchen...me thinks he doth exaggerate somewhat, but there was a kitchen-full of toques & aprons, which can be seen from the entryway. Splurge meal total, including Champagne apératifs, supplemental charge for chariot de fromage (what can I say, I didn't really have the room, but I had wine still in my glass which I couldn't let go to waste, n'est-ce pas?), bottled water and café with mignardises: 205 euros for two. No photos of the interior...sometimes I "play the tourist", but this was definitely not one of those places, so we just enjoyed the meal and took some outside pix. Cool door handle on the glass entry door.
Auberge du Cheval Blanc
4, rue de Wissembourg
67510 Lembach
www.au-cheval-blanc.fr
03 88 94 41 86

http://s918.photobucket.com/albums/ad27/klondike55/Alsace-Lorraine/

We stayed at a Logis de France affiliate L'Hostellerie du Cygne in Wissembourg. Family run establishment, rooms are nothing fancy but comfortably appointed with firm bed, modern tiled bathroom, located right next to the Hotel de Ville in the heart of la vieille ville. We had room #22 on the second floor of the annexe "Le Faucon" at 60 euros. I would qualify it as a hotel de charme/caractère with its 16 rooms. No dinner that night--who would have the room?! Breakfast is a steep 9 euros, so some might consider breakfast elsewhere at one of the numerous salon de thés/patisseries in town.

We did thoroughly enjoy our Sunday noon Valentines Day meal there the next day, however. I also feel rapport qualité/prix, L'Hostellerie du Cygne was hard to beat. A very hearty Kir, imaginative amuse-bouche, exquisite sauces, tender fish/meats done to perfection. Large selection of wines by the glass or pichet. Restaurant closed Weds, Thurs lunch and Sunday evenings. Though we enjoyed our lunch at Le Cheval Blanc, we would return gladly to L'Hostellerie du Cygne instead. I can't think of a thing that could have been improved upon.
Hostellerie du Cygne
3 rue du Sel
67160 Wissembourg
tel 03 88 94 0016
http://www.hostellerie-cygne.com/