mosey_on

I've scoured the forums for ideas and realize everyone's preferences, needs and itineraries are so individual!
Please offer your suggestions for a "home base" town in Tuscany from which we take day trips by car or train AND that meets some considerations I've outlined below.

Here are the considerations:
1) We have 6 full days between our arrival in Milan (morning of May 15) and when we depart on a cruise from Civitavecchia (May 21 about mid-day).
2) We've thought to explore Milan for the first day just to check it out --- and recover from jet-lag. Or, since we arrive pretty early on May 15, we could travel to our destination town right away. But, if we devote one day in Milan, we have only 5 days for Tuscany portion.
3) We've been to Florence before and enjoyed the wonderful museums. While I loved the city, we don't necessarily have to make a repeat visit this time.
4) We don't plan to visit Rome as we enjoyed several days there a few years ago.
5) Our objective in Tuscany --- or CT, Italian Riviera if you think it fits in-- is to experience the natural "Tuscan" beauty at a "leisurely" pace. Hence our desire to rent a car somewhere, possibly in Milan.
6) We've driven in Italy before, Venice to Verona and Padua and even in crazy Naples, so we're not intimidated (as long as we have GPS). I envision our driving would be highways to get from major point A to B, but then country roads to explore Tuscany with freedom.
7) Ideally we would make one town, but not more than two towns, as our "home base." From our home base we will make day trips around the countryside, and possibly to coastal towns, CT or other villages you recommend. Day trip could be by train if it makes more sense and is short.
8) Whatever base town we end up in should have enough going on that we can stroll and enjoy the Italian "vibe" should we choose not to make a day-excursion at all, and instead take a day "off" to enjoy a leisurely breakfast, gaze outside the hotel windows, read a book, have wine with lunch, take a nap.
9) And finally, on May 21 in the morning we have to make our way to Civitavecchia to arrive by around 12 pm to catch the cruise. Therefore our our home base would be convenient to either drive directly, or we'd return the car at a train station near our home base and take the train to Civitavecchia. Ideally we would avoid Rome if we took the train.

I know many of you have traveled extensively in the Tuscany, Umbria, Italian Riviera. I'm hoping you'll "see" in your mind's eye the perfect itinerary that fits the bill!

Thanks!!

sandralist

SInce you are going on a cruise, the Tuscan countryside would be different from the fishing villages of the the Mediterranean. Also, it would be easier to get to Civiitavecchia from the Tuscan countryside than it would Umbria.

There are literally dozens of towns and farm-hotels in the Tuscan countryside that would be a "perfect itinerary" in terms of what you describe is ideal for you. You should do some research on 2 areas of Tuscany: one is called le Crete Senesi and the other is called the val d'Orcia. Both are are between the town of Siena and Civitavecchia. There are many towns in that area with lots of options for accommodations. There are also attractive farms among the vinyards with apartments to rent.

You should plan to take a train from Milan to a city like Florence, Arezzo or Chiusi to pick up a rental car. I don't know why you wouldn't want to drive yourselves to Civitavecchia. You can drop off the car there.

I wouldn't stress out or obsess about a location in Tuscany. It is overwhelmingly everything you say you are looking for. So find something affordable in the scenic areas. You'll find thousands of review on bookng.com with pictures, so it's hard to go wrong if you do just a little bit of research.

bvlenci

I think Pienza might be an ideal base for you. It's convenient to major highways. It's a small town, but with enough restaurants to give you some choices. It's near many of the iconic Tuscan towns. Pienza does attract quite a number of tourists, but many of them are day trippers.

There are other towns that would be a possibility, such as Montalcino, which I particularly like. However, Montalcino is on top of a rather high hill, and driving up and down, sometimes twice a day, got a bit old when we stayed there. I don't know if I'd advise it for a 5-day stay. Montepulciano is also on a rather high hill. You could stay in the countryside, since you'll have a car, but that means driving home after dinner, so someone wouldn't get to enjoy the wine.

I can't really advise you about spending the first day in Milan. I love the city, but I've noticed that the people who don't care for it are mostly people who've spent too little time there to see its value. If you spend the day, I'd suggest doing some things that aren't on the tourist trail. Maybe visit the Brera Gallery if you are an art lover, or have dinner on the Naviglio Grande (a big canal), or visit some of the ancient churches. If you go to the Duomo, take the time to go up to the roof terraces, which have an incredible forest of Gothic sculptures.

I myself wouldn't spend all the time getting to the Cinque Terre and back unless I could stay a few days (and enjoy it when the hordes of day trippers have left. However, if you want to take a day trip there, you can decide that when you're in Tuscany.

Unless you can drive standard shift cars, you should pick up the car at a larger rental agency, such as at an airport. Florence airport is probably the best choice, because there are direct trains there from Milan.

You could possibly return the car in Chiusi, which is less than an hour's drive from Pienza, but you'd have to catch a fairly early train, with a change of train at Rome's Termini station, to get to Civitavecchia by noon. Another possibility would be to turn the car in at Orvieto, which is a longer drive, but a shorter train trip. However, I would be inclined to drive to Civitavecchia. You should allow at least three hours for the drive. When catching a flight or a cruise ship, I would always allow a very comfortable cushion for the unexpected, so I myself would allow even more time than that.

mosey_on

Thank you bvlenci and sandralist for the suggestions. I'll look those up those towns.

We can both drive manual shift cars and have done so in Italy before. Is there a reason we'd want to wait to pick up a car further south than Milan, vs picking up in Milan?

sandralist

If you are not stopping anywwhere before southern Tuscany, it is an extremely long and boring drive from Milan, on highways filled with trucks and -- if raining -- slow going. The fast trains are comfortable. I prefer trains (one of the reasons I moved to Europe!), but some people would rather do anything than give up getting behind the wheel, espcially if they are hauling loads of heavy luggage. Up to you.

bvlenci

For the trip from Milan to Florence, the train takes 1 hour and 40 minutes. The train ticket, if bought at the last minute, costs €40 per person, but if you buy it well in advance, you can get a non-refundable, non-changeble ticket for as little as €19. Driving would take almost four hours, and the cost of fuel and tolls would be about €60. These times and costs are for center city to center city.

You could pick up the car near the train station in Florence, but the station is on the edge of a limited traffic zone (ZTL), so you have to adhere very strictly to the instructions they give you for getting out of there without straying into the ZTL. Anyway, it's easier getting out than getting in. You probably know how to avoid the ZTLs in most places, since you've driven in Italy before. Just don't rely on a GPS to keep you out of the ZTLs.

dana5

I agree with Bvienci above - Pienza would be a perfect base. Lovely to wander around, several cafés and restaurants, easy access in and out. Wonderful cheese shops. We (50s couple) have toured the area a couple of times extensively over the last few years. On our advice several friends have followed suit. there is so much to do in the area:
Montepulciano (Cafe Poliziano with its cute terraces out back with wonderful views)
San Quirico
Montalcino (Read Vanilla Beans & Brodo)
Bagno Vignoni (go late afternoon to avoid tour groups- has wonderful thermal pool in centre - sit and paddle your feet in the warm water of canal)
Sant'Antimo Abbey and listen to monks chanting
Lunch at La Porta in Monticchiello
La Foce Gardens (Read War in the Val d'Orcia)
here's a link to markets:
http://www.lecasinedicastello.com/in...id=103&lang=en

You won't need a pool - too cool for swimming in May. Also, just stay in 1 base. Good luck

Henry

Mosey,
This may help http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/hs_planning.htm

sandralist

I would pick where you are going to stay first, and then think about where you are going to pick up a car.

mosey_on

Thanks everyone! Great ideas.
I've spent quality time following the links and investigating further your recommendations.
We definitely like the idea of Pienza or thereabouts!

Does anyone have an idea whether the drive from Pienza/southern Tuscanny to Civitavecchia is "scenic" or has worthwhile stops?
One thought we had was to drive there on the afternoon before our cruise leaves, making it one of our "day trips." Therefore we'd spend our last night in Civitavecchia rather than Tuscany.
But if the drive is easy enough to do the morning before our cruise leaves that would probably still be our preference.

Jean

I think there are lots of potential stops between Pienza and Civitavecchia but too many for a single day. You'd have to study the options and choose.

Abbazia di Sant'Antimmo south of Montalcino
http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/sant_antimo.htm

Castell'azzara
Sorano
Sovana
Pitigliano
http://www.bestsmalltownsitaly.com/t...uscany-center/

If you are interested in birds, the WWF preserve near Orbetello. Or drive onto Monte Argentario and explore. There are some pretty views of the island's coastline and in May perhaps flowers.

Etruscan tombs at Tarquinia north of Civitavecchia

dana5

I think a 3 hr drive on last morning is cutting it too fine. How about staying the last night in Viterbo, then you would only have a 50 min drive in the morning. Viterbo has plenty of accommodation options. On the way to Viterbo (day before cruise leaves) make a day trip and stop off in Orvieto which has a beautiful cathedral; and also stop off to see Civita di Bagnoregio.

mosey_on

Thank you all again! Wow! We are so looking forward to his leg of our 3-week trip.
From our research, the suggestion to train from Milan to Florence is a wise one. Then we'll pick up a car there.

dana5, I'll look into your idea of staying in Viterbo. You are right, the possibility of experiencing any delays (road problems, who knows?!) during a 3-hour drive from Tuscany is something to consider.
I do want our last evening before the cruise to feel special so if ideally we'd find a pleasant hotel in Viterbo area.

dana5

Hi Mosey - another place near Viterbo you may like to visit if you like gardens is Villa Lante http://www.tripadvisor.co.nz/Attract...rbo_Lazio.html
Have a great trip.