What was your favorite activity in Paris and which one was a bit of a let-down?

One disappointment for me on my recent trip was the St. Martin Canal area. I had been told my many to take a walk along the canal. Well, the area I visited had too many homeless and drunks and I felt very uncomfortable there, so I went to the nearest metro and left the area. I might have started my walk too far north and plan to try it again starting from the Bastille and walk north.

This was my 5th visit to Paris, so there weren't a log of surprises. I loved the markets I visited, enjoyed the places I dined in. Loved the Marais!!

Monica

On our second trip to Paris we took the Segway tour. It was a lot of fun being the center of attention everywhere we went!

A few years ago I was in Paris alone in the winter and it was raining. I had looked up a self guided tour of the Passages Couvert and decided to do that on a rainy day. It was a great surprise and I discovered a neighborhood I hadn't really known before. I'm not a huge fan of the top of Montmartre near the Sacre Cour. I am a huge fan however of the Paris Walks tours especially the one of Montmartre that is only 10 Euro. Take it. You'll see where the Impressionists live and learn wonderful history. I swear I don't work for them. I just think they do a fabulous job. THe tour helped me discover a neighborhood that before I was indifferent about.

The Canal St Martin is underground from Bastille to Republique,then it is topside. There is a special program going on that provided a 'tent city' to the homeless and this is one area where it is set up. I don't know how long the tent city is meant to be there.

In April we saw a lot of camping tents and what looked like homeless camps along the Seine, alongise the Jardin des Plantes location, along with the acommpanying trash.

PB, the thing about your question is that it is very subjective to each person, what his expectations were and so forth. Those places or sights that were surprising or special to one person might feel contrived to another who purposely seeks out the exact same thing.

I guess I could say that the Conciergerie wasn't 'all that' as far as the interior visit went - but the history of it is pretty interesting.

I just was not blown away by St. Chapple. I know that some people have been brought to tears buy it's beauty, but I just didn't think it was all that great. I really made a point of going there last trip because I hadn't been and felt it was a "must" and...I don't know, it wasn't that great. I certainly could appreciate the skill of assembling all that glass, but I was like "OK, seen it, time to move on", yawn. I would NOT discourage anyone else from going there because so many people find it fabulous, and you might find it fabulous too. It just didn't do it for me.

I'll start with my least favourite experience:

On my first trip to Paris, I didn't have much of a plan (the trip was an two-day add-on to a trip to St Petersburg & London). It was early August and boiling hot. Somehow I seemed to end up wandering aimlessly up and down the Champs-Elysees and then through the 1st arr to Les Halles. The two areas seemed so touristy, so jam-packed full of touristy restaurants and the same stores I could see back in Canada - and the temperature made me feel as though I was stuck in a giant dirty frying pan. I couldn't seem to find the charming, narrow streets and interesting buildings I expected to see and it was rather a letdown.

The best experience was probably my third trip to Paris, when I stayed with a friend in the 7th who was studying at the Ecole Nationale d'Administration (ENA). I met her at her apartment and she had an itinerary planned for the evening. We took the metro across the Left Bank and stopped (I can't remember exactly where). She said, "You don't mind if we get out here and walk to the restaurant?" Sure, why not? So we got off the metro and walked across the bridge (at sunset) directly into the Louvre, where she had made a reservation at Cafe Marly for drinks. We sat sipping kir royales, watching the world and feeling very worldly ourselves. She had planned a route that showed Paris at its best and made me feel very welcome.

Ten years later - and we both live here now with our husbands. Now, every trip to the cheese shop, wine shop or patisserie is a daily delight.

photobear,

You are certainly doing your research. this is one of many posts you have and I applaud your good sense to ask alot of questions!

But I would just caution you nicely to enjoy a little spontaniety in your trip too and let it unfold before you.

Have a wonderful time!

A couple of ideas....

I'd heard on this forum countless times about the Jaquemart-Andre museum. So last trip I went, and it was indeed worth it. Very interesting building and history (industrialists who created the house as it is today, their art collecting..), and an art collection of high quality. Unfortunately I did not make it to the restaurant, which is also often recommended.

A place I stopped by on the way to the J.A. was the Chapelle Expiatoire, just down the road from the museum. I'm a history buff and had heard of this place. This is where the people beheaded at Place de la Concorde were brought and thrown into a ditch, including Louus XV1 and Marie Antoinette. Eventually the country retrieved the monarchs' bodies and moved them to St Denis, but they built this interesting little memorial chapel at the location. At the time, I could not go down into the crypts. Neat place for a quick visit.

The Arenes de Lutece on the Left Bank is a roman arena that was discovered a few years back. Not a lot left, but a fine place to go for a picnic and there are some neat roman carved stones.

I had hear of the Square Galant, and made it last trip. It is a small park located on the furthest west tip of Ile de la Cite, down below street level. It is also right beside whre you would catch the Vedettes du Pont Neuf Seine cruises. Lush park,with large old trees, rose bushes, and benches to sit on. It offers very nices views of the Seine, and the Louvre right across the River.

The Marmottan is a fabulous small museum, specializing in Monet (but has other Impressionists as well). The downstairs hall has a series of large canvasses of water lilies of his place in Giverny. Not crowded, bit out of the way, but worth a trip. You'll also get to see the 16th, a nice, upscale arrondissement.

I finally made it to Pont des Arts. This is the pedestrian only bridge across the Seine, one bridge west of Ile de la Cite. Nice place to sit, eat your lunch, watch the artists, and offers great views of central Paris.

I always plan a walk around Ile St Louis, then across to the Left, then walk back towards Notre Dame, walking below street level along the Seine. Incomparable views of Notre Dame, away from the traffic, boats passing by. When I do eventually go up to street level, I also like to browse the bouquinistes for old books, prints,etc. There are also some nice reataurants on this street, east of Notre Dame.


I also usually do one nightime classical music concert while I am there. Every night these is a list of concerts given in some of the oldest churches of Paris. I went to a 'candle light' concert at St Chappelle and it was very good. Also have been to one at St Julien le Pauvre, one of the oldest churches in Paris. if you like htis music, a great way to blend it in with a historical setting.

You may have planned on visiting the Musee de la Moyen Age (aka Cluny). This is a museum of the middle ages, with intesting relics, tapestries, stained glass and gargoyles from Notre Dame. An additional point of interest is the building, an old abbey that was built over the ruins of roman baths, which you can still see.

I like the walk Boulevard St Germain, from east to West. You can use it as the main axis, then along the way take detours off of it to see things...like Pantheon, Cluny, Luxembourg Gardens, St Sulpice, St Germain des Pres, and finish at the Orsay. Along the way you will find many cafes (Napoleon, Flore), rue de Buci street market, oldest restaurant in Paris (Procope) on a cobble street, shopping,etc...

I enjoyed Musee de L'Armee and Invalides, but also watching old men play boulles in the park in front of it.

The area aorund Comedie Francaise ( I like the fountain in Place Malraux) is nice to lazily browse around. A must is the Palais Royale, just behind the Comedie. Check out the stiped colums, walk around the arcade cheking out the shops, eat lunch in the park. Nearby is the Louvre des Antiquaires. If you like antiques, this is the place for you (if you won the lattery). Three floors of very high end antique dealers, good window browsing. If this is your thing, Rue Drouot is where they have regular auctions open to the public. Last time I was there watched an auction of antique violins.

The different arrondissments will have farmers markets, on different days of the week. Fresh fruit and vegetables, meat, breads, honeys and jams,etc.. You can also get things like roasted chicken...perhaps a dinner/picnic shopping plan? I did a walking tour of the Marais last trip, and there was a market in front of the Mairie that Saturday....and you could smell the roasted chicken, yum.

I also like the Opera Garnier. You could see a performance there, but I think just a visit is worthwhile. Columns, chandeliers, grand staircase, mirrors, when I think of turn of the century events where 'le tout Paris' comes out in their finest, this is what I would imagine the building to look like.

Place Vendome is worth a quick walk by, to see the world famous Ritz, and across the street the very high end jewellers.


Some thoughts...

Mike

Biggest surprise, pleasant: Jardin du Luxembourg. Runner-up: Picasso museum.

Biggest surprise, less pleasant (I had no truly negative experiences): Champs-Elysees. Very boring. No, wait -- I was surprised at the seediness of Rue St-Denis, and the old prostitutes there, and the fellow who screamed abuse and nearly attacked me when I got my camera out (to take a picture of the street, not the prostitutes!)

Favorites:

• The race courses and racing at Longchamp, Chantilly & St. Cloud — Lovely settings, beautiful horses, engaged, well-mannered fans, the occasional winning ticket.

• The smaller museums — Musée Rodin, Musée Picasso, the Orangerie, Musée Marmottan, Musée du Luxembourg, Musée Zadkine (quiet sculpture garden in the heart of the city).

• Paris cemeteries — Pere Lachaise, Montparnasse, Montmartre — not just the gravesites of the famous, but the touching tributes — sculpture, stained glass — to everyday citizens, and the war and Holocaust memorials. (I discovered Dalida, an Egyptian-born Parisian chanteuse who committed suicide 20 years ago last month. There was a massive floral tribute to her at her tomb in Montmartre, commemorating her passing. Who knew?)

• Public art that you come upon and don’t expect — including the sculpture (Zadkine once more) in the Luxembourg gardens.

• Restaurants — Willi’s Wine Bar, Les Ombres, Chez Maitre Paul, Chez Henri, Le Florimond, Ze Kitchen Galerie, Le Petit Troquet, Yugaraj, and — I’m cheating here because I’m talking side trips — Le Musardiere (Giverny — an exquisite chicken and cheese crepe), and La Vielle Maison (Chartres — ate lunch there two years ago, ate lunch there twice last month and the real reason I went to Chartre twice this time, notwithstanding the beauty of the cathedral and my desire to buy stained glass artwork, which I fulfilled. Anyway, La Vielle Maison is my favorite restaurant in or out of Paris, period.

Let-Downs:

• The Louvre — It’s such a zoo, and I’m older and crankier now.

I agree that this is very subjective!
After my very first trip to Paris as a 13 yr old I remembered the Ste.Chappelle as a highlight so I was pleased that both my kids said 'Wow' when we went there last summer. It was a very bright sunny morning and the windows were dazzling. The colours are very intense and there is so much stained glass for a small church that it felt like being inside a kaleidescope.

The Louvre is very pretty when it's lit up at night. I'd only seen it by day until I saw a photo of it at night online and made a point of seeing it myself.

Not much disappoints me in Paris except maybe the golden arches, M on the Champs Elysees!

Highlight - One year a friend who lives in the 14th let us have her apt while she went home to the US for Christmas. On a rainy day we ducked into the Centre Pompidou and found a book of all the art deco and art nouveau buildings in Paris. It was in English and had descriptions, photos, address, directions of each property. So every day my husband (who is an architect) and I would seek out these architectural gems. One morning we were looking at a Corbusier Building and a tenant was leaving and let us in to see the hallway. That was a highlight. And finding out about Robert Mallet-Stevens and the entire street of his buildings.

Disappointment? I have to say the Louvre. It is too big, too much to see and I just end up being bored with it all after about the umpteenth room.

Thank you all...I really want our 9 days in Paris to be special but I don't want to overplan.

I also want to recognize a diamond in the rough if we happen upon it. I would hate to walk right past something amazing just because I did not know what it was.
From all your suggestions here, I will be much more informed.

Great stories everyone, I love to hear about your trips. Makes me feel like I was there.

I was in awe of the arc de triomphe up close, but Champs-Elysees itself was rather uninspiring, especially when you see Gap and Sephora and other stores we have in US. I would say skip it.

Ste. Chapelle, Rodin Museum and Musee d'Orsay were all wonderful. Just walking along the Seine next to all the outdoor book vendors is a great experience. The Luxembourg Gardens are also lovely for a stroll.

I like Paris and almost every place there. so, I agree with all things that have been listed here as favorites. I want to add some:
- museums Camondo, Cernuschi and Orangerie
- Park Bagatelle in May and the exibition there "Roses and Sevres Porcelain" with the exposition
- the exibition of rare Lalique jewelleries at Luxembourg museum (it is open till middle of July)
- the visit of Hotel de Ville (City Hall (you have to phone in advance).

I did not find anything interesting or nice on Rue de Cler (I was here because I found many recommendations in this forum).

I also was not very impressed by Conciergerie.

Yes, subjective indeed! One surprise for me was the maritime museum - beautiful paintings by Armenian artists in April, fascinating model ships (including one with a photo-optic tour of the inside you could watch on television). I also enjoyed the pariscanal 3-hour boat tour up the Canal St. Martin (especially the underground part, which was spooky and mysterious and beautiful). My favorite activity was just wandering around, eating where we felt like eating, stopping where we felt like stopping, remembering to look up at all the beautiful buildings, being surprised by things. Contrary to others, while I liked the Jacquemart-Andre Museum itself, I found the cafe to be dismal (beautiful inside, though), overpriced, lukewarm tea, and not user-friendly.

Favorite: Musee d'Orsay.
Let down: Picasso Museum.
Surprise: Hôtel de Soubise.

The Hôtel de Soubise was regally appointed with gifts from Louis XIV to the wife of François de Rohan. Why gifts to her?
Payments.

We've been to Paris many times, but this was the first time we went up to the top of Arc de Triomphe at night, which was just beautiful. If you get a museum pass, this is free and there's an elevator to the top, if you don't want to climb. It's a nice way to fit in one more thing at night with your pass.

I agree with wanderful about the Louvre. We've been several times, but in our month-long stay, we never had a desire to go back, even though we went to museums nearly every day. Yet I don't feel that way about the Met in New York, which is also massive.

I love all the gardens and how local people use them so much. Beautiful days just sitting in Luxembourg Gardens and the Tuileries both. Even the lawn in front of the Eiffel Tower was goood.

I have been to Paris once, October 2006 (Am returning for 7 nights this fall) and the most surprising thing was:

How much I really loved Paris!!! There is just sooo much to see and do! And the food!!!

Favorites - Ste Chappelle and Musee` d Orsay.

I cant wait to get back.

Tom

ps You can see my photos at www.pbase.com/trsw/paris2006

I should have included Ste. Chapelle.
Getting forgetful in my old age.

I am not sure Vaux-le-Vicomte counts because it is outside of Paris.

So many favourites:

St. Chappelle, particularly music concert there, with candles sparkling in the beautiful stained glass windows

Musee d'Orsay - who knew a former train station could be so beautiful, plus the art collection is amazing!

Place de Vosges - a beautiful little square of grassy park with fountains in the Bastille area, designer shops with Popy Moreni my choice for perfume and clothing, restaurants and Victor Hugo's residence/museum

Cluny Museum - amazing collection of statues from medieval Notre Dame, apparently buried for over 200 years by a school teacher rescued from destruction during the Revolution

Opera Garnier - everything I expected and more from reading Phantom of the Opera and seeing the musical and movie, didn't attend a performance there however, maybe next trip

Disappointments - going to the top of the Eiffel Tower, although it was cold and windy when we were there, souvenir shop and mediocre coffee shop on 2nd level

Notre Dame - inside, not really as much as I expected after reading The Hunchback of Notre Dame, I guess my imagination is much grander

Champs Elysees - many stores available in North America on this street, seemed somewhat seedy

Diana's monument/flame on Pont d'Alma - not at all what I thought would be there, considering her popular role in twentieth-century culture

Sacre Coeur - beautiful yes, but not spectacular inside, although the view of the city is amazing

Bastille - the monument and plaque are there, but I thought there would be so much more- again, my imagination from A Tale of Cities and Les Miserables fueled a somewhat grander vision

That said, Paris is one of my favourite cities to visit, so much so that I am returning in July for my third visit in three years, twice in this year

Favorite activities:
Eating
Walking
Jeu de Paume (especially my first time in 1971)
Musee d'Orsay
Notre Dame -- at night, when you have it to yourself!
Walking
Eating
Walking

Disappointing activity:
Having to leave.

I was surprised that I loved Sacre Coeur more than Notre Dame. It seemed less touristy with people not allowed to take pictures so I am sure that was part of it. I was also surprised that I cried at Musee d'Orsay when I saw the originals of works that I had studied.

"Diana's monument/flame on Pont d'Alma - not at all what I thought would be there, considering her popular role in twentieth-century culture"

The flame (erected 1987) has nothing whatsoever to do with Diana, that is why it was a 'let down'. People made it into a makeshift memorial for a while, that's it.
http://www.atkielski.com/inlink.php?/PhotoGallery/Paris/General/LibertyFlameSmall.html

I'll always remember:

... having a leisurely picnic lunch under the shade trees beside the Fontaine De Medicis in the Luxembourg Gardens.

... Square du Vert-Galant on the tip of Ile de la Cite, Paris' best kept secret!

... hearing Vivaldi being played in Sainte Chapelle - surrounded by the gorgeous colours of the stained glass windows and the lovely music!

... squeezing between the book shelves in Shakespeare & Co.

... buying a silk scarf for my mother as a souvenir of Paris

... seeing the Monet waterlily panels for the first time in the L'Orangerie BEFORE the renovations!

... my first taste of nougat ice cream

... just walking & experiencing Paris' neighbourhoods - what an amazing city!

from our trip last november (with kids 8 & 12).

Disappointment: Champs Elysees-- since I visited 20 years ago, it seems like a lot of the cuter boutiques have been replaced by big-name boring outfits. All we were looking for this day was a souvenier t-shirt, and we walked a long way before finding anything- we would have done better picking one up from a vendor we saw near the Eiffel Tower.

Nice Surprises: Just about everything else! We had only planned on flying into Paris for a couple days and taking the night train out to Italy- My husband and I weren't big Paris fans (based on previous experience). But now we are talking about going back... Montmarte was magical on a slightly drizzly day. My son still talks about the escargot (at a small affordable bistro in the Sorbonne area). My daugter (the reason we stopped in Paris at all) fulfilled her dream of going up the Eiffel tower (we got a clear sunny afternoon) and my husband probably enjoyed d'Orsay the most. None of these are secret gems of course, but I guess you could say, we were expecting the worse, and ended up having a fantastic time.

Most emotional moment in Paris...the Memorial to the Deported right behind Notre Dame cathedral on the same island but underground. A must!

Fat Tire Bike Tour at night.
None.

Favorite:
Eating cassoulet at Le Baracane
Musee d'Orsay
St. Chapelle
Musee Cluny

My biggest SURPRISE: Walking down St. Germaine looking for a place to eat and finding a TexMex restaurant. I'm from Texas and eat TexMex at least once a week. So we had to try it. It wasn't exactly TexMex, more CaliforniaMex, but it was good. Their margaritas were made with vodka. But hey, no one was complaining.

Most MEMORABLE moment: Teaching my 8 year old grandson what the "other" potty in our hotel bathroom was for.

FAVORITE activity: The Orsay Museum with my 10 year old granddaughter

LEAST FAVORITE activity: fighting the crowd at Notre Dame.

I'm leaving in 9 days to try it again. I'm sure my list will change after this trip.

I've been to Paris 7 times. Love it! On my last trip I finally visited the Rodin Museum. I was just blown away by the outdoor sculpture. It was late in the day with thunderstorm clouds threatening and intermitten rays of sun. The drama of the sky combined with the power of his sculpture and the beauty of the garden took my breath away. It is now been added to my regular "to do" list each time I go to Paris.

Favourite things to see/do in Paris.
*Rodin Museum Garden - I love strolling around the scuptures and then going into the back garden and reading my book on one of the lounge chairs.
*Parc Monceau in the 8th - the park is lovely and the homes surrounding it are amazing.
*Jazz Festival at Parc Floral on a warm summer day.
*We took the RER just outside of Paris and strolled by the Marne river, there were swans, students canoeing, the trees were in bloom - very nice (we found a thread regarding this walk on this site).

The biggest disappoint with Paris - the smell of urine on the streets and metro.

But that's not enough to keep us from going back at the end of June for our 4th time.

Beyond what has already been touted (and many that i would claim as personal faves) I loved the Museum of Police (rue de Carmes-5th Arrond.) as I am a huge fan of all things mystery-forensic.

The other thing I found fascinating was the home of Victor Hugo on Place des Voges. The decor is mind-blowing.

I was (sorry, fans) underwhelmed by the Eiffel Tower...

On our recent trip, our favorites were the Jacquemart Andre Museum and lunch in the cafe - our lunch was the special of the day - wonderful quiche, salad, and dessert. Also enjoyed the parks - Place de Vosges, the rose garden at Jardin des Plantes, and the secret garden on St Gilles close to our apartment. Also enjoyed seeing some of the beautiful passages - Galerie Vivienne and Colbert. On a previous trip, we loved the Opera Garnier, and we always love the markets.

We were disappointed in the St. Martin Canal area - like Monica we were uncomfortable and left from the closest metro station.

Lucie--I never thought to go to Notre Dame at night! We will be back in Paris in a couple weeks and we will do that. Our hotel is very close, so it will be easy. Thanks!

I still remember my first visit in 1958 when we had French onion soup in the wee hours of the morning in one of the small "restaurants" at Les Halles when it was still Paris' bustling food market. Alas, no longer doable.

In Nov. 2001, we were welcomed by the manager of Mourlot Lithographers in Montparnasse. Mourlot printed many of the posters of the great artists of the 20th century: Chagall, Braque, Picasso, Dufy, Matisse, Miro, Leger. Andre Brasillier was there supervising a limited edition of one of his works. We just walked in from the street and both gentlemen were so sympathetic to the tragedy of 9/11.

Our biggest letdown was the Musee Marmatton in 2004. We had seen the Turner, Whistler, Monet exhibit a few days before so maybe we were just Moneted out or fed up with waterlilies. Hope to give the Orangerie a shot this month.

mms, I don't remember if we even went inside...I just remember it was a beautiful summer night, and we were out walking late after dinner, and we didn't even mean to end up at ND...when we did, we felt like we were in a magical spot. Made me appreciate the ND in a completely different way.

I'm jealous that you're going in a couple of weeks. Kiss and hug that beautiful city for me, ok?

Lucie--We went inside, in the morning, but did not climb the tower which is definitely on my list this time. I am going with DD and my mother, so just a girls trip...can't wait!!! Our hotel is only about 2 blocks away, so perfect location for soaking up the atmosphere at all times of day

Emily and i have been to Paris 5 times my bigest disappoiment was the Bastille ... it was gone. The other sites are great. Go to my web page for agenda and apprisals of several sites we went too. emilyandjim.info search on yahoo. Paris has so many sites it could take year to see them all.

Favorites: walking the city at night enjoying the lights; Fat Tire Bike Tour (we went during the day but I've heard the night tour is also fab); Musee d'Orsay; Versailles grounds/gardens (especially Marie Antoinette's hamlet); Saint Chapelle

Disappointments: very few but do include dinner at some Thai place in the Latin Quarter; Champs Elysee

I can't afford to go often enough to be disappointed, Every moment is a highlite.
And I never tire of shopping/looking at Deyrolle.

I can't afford to go often enough to be disappointed.

Moi aussi.
Though even if I could go more often, I honestly have a hard time thinking of what I might possibly find disappointing. Other than waking up the morning I have to leave.

oooh I forgot another favorite: climbing the tower at Notre Dame. The gargoyles are so cool and the view's not bad either!

I know that the Opera Garnier has been mentioned but it deserves another plug. If you go, check out the ceiling, painted by Chagall. At the time, many art critics thought that it was too modern for the architecture and for a while there was some consideration of painting over it, which of course would have been heartbreaking. A self guided tour is only a couple of Euro's and there are some exquisite ballrooms and side rooms other than the Opera itself.

A cruise after dark on the Seine...preferably on your last night in Paris. The amazing lighting of all the sights that you pass, including the Tour Eiffel will burn into your memory and for two weeks after you will see it in your dreams.

No negatives for me, although I would have liked to hear more music. I wasn't lucky enough to run into any street musicians like some of the folks here talk about. But then again, that's why I have to go back in November!

It may sound pretentious, but for me, there is just "something" about Paris. I don't know what it is. The first time I went and we got off the plane I felt a sense of disappointment. Is this it, I asked myself? Several hours later after arriving at the hotel and walking the neighborhoods, I remember thinking "now this IS a city". There's just nowhere else like it and I can't put my finger on it but it might be a combination of history, culture, food, wine and people wrapped up in an attitude of joie de vie. I studied French in high school for 3 years and my teacher was French. I've always been interested in the country and I don't know why. Favorite activity is walking, walking ,walking followed by people watching at an outdoor cafe sipping a glass of wine. My least impressive activity? Going to the airport.

jbjayhawk--I love gargoyles! My DH thinks I am nuts, but oh well, lol! I found a great one in CA and hauled it back to OR for the garden...DH was not thrilled. But I like it and can't wait to check the ones out from the top of Notre Dame.

bookmarking
(I think I've figured out what "bookmarking" is for... I now feel like a real "Fodorite"!)

Favourites: Walking around the "off the beaten path" neighbourhoods (ie back streets of the 6th), getting to know waiters at wine bars around our hotel (usually La Petite Perigourdine on Rue d'Ecole just up from Rue St Michel in the 5th), sitting in Place des Voges watching people, watching the maelstrom of cars miraculously NOT get into massive pileups in the Étoile.
Disappointments: like many, I find the Champs Élysées is far too crowded, non-Parisienne, and big-box-store'd to really enjoy. I'm not that interested in art and found the Louvre to be too big and far too crowded, especially at the Mona Lisa.

Spent a week in Paris this past April (2007). Did a full trip report on here (“My first trip to Paris…I can’t wait to go back!”) if you’d like to check it out. If not, here are the Cliff Notes…

Unforgettable places we saw and things we did:
- Rodin Museum
- L’Orangerie
- Musée D’Orsay
- Eiffel Tower from Palais Chaillot
- Chapel of the Blessed Virgin at St. Sulpice
- Watching the sunset and the Eiffel Tower light up in the distance while sitting in the Louvre courtyard eating our picnic dinner.
- Lunch at Café L’été en Penté Douce, just below Sacré Coeur
- A window table and a plate of Choucroute Lipp at Brasserie Lipp
- Strolling Quai D’Anjou on Ile St. Louis
- Tartes au Citrón (Lemon tarts) from Aux Delices de Manon
- Hot chocolate (Chocolat Africaine) at Café Angelina

Pleasant surprises:
- Musée Marmottan (get your Monet fix here!)
- Church of St. Pierre (next to Sacré Coeur)
- Luxembourg Gardens
- Café at the Orsay
- Jambon et Fromage Crudité sandwiches, toasted Panini-style!
- The French version of Coke Zero (it’s much better than what you get here)
- The beautiful little paintings we bought at Place du Tertre
- The Apollo Room in the Louvre
- Musée de Marine (in the Palais Chaillot)
- Church of St. Louis en L’Ile (on Ile St. Louis)
- The warm reception from nearly every Parisian we met!

Not as memorable as I’d hoped:
- The Tuileries (too much dust!)
- Canal St. Martin cruise (except the end where we went through a long tunnel and cruised the Seine to the Orsay)

I wish you as fantastic a trip as we had!
-Dave

Exceeded Expectations:
Opera Garnier
St. Chappelle
Musee D'Orsay

Failed to Meet Expectations:
Conciergerie
Champs Élysées

Extra-High Expectations That Were Met:
Louvre
Wandering on the left bank

After all these messages about the only thing that can be said is that there is no consensus. But that's to be expected, I suppose.

Disapointment:
Conciergerie (...eh)
Some bistro/cafe meals
CDG airport
Shakespeare & Company (it's not the original)

Loved:
1st time seeing the Eiffel Tower at night (I cried)
Riding the Metro (fun and easy)
Fat Tire bike tour at night
Luxembourg Garden

Crefloors, I felt the same way about Ste-Chapelle my first visit but it was grey outside so didn't understand all the fuss. But the 2nd I visited I made sure it was on a glowing sunny day and that made all the difference in the world to me! Stayed three hours just to watch the play of light on the floor as the sun crept across the windows.

Let's see, the thing I've been underwhelmed about was the top floor of the Eiffel Tower as you can't really see much from that far up (in my opinion). Haven't been too impressed with the Arc de Triomphe nor the Champs Elysées. I suppose I wasn't too impressed with the interior of Sacré-Coeur. The interior of Nôtre Dame makes me feel ho-hum as it seems so gloomy; however, it's great during a holiday mass such as at Easter (been twice). LOVE climbing the towers, though, and walking around the perimeter taking photos of all the details.

I love walking through the Place du Marché Ste-Catherine - that always brings joy to my heart!

Last trip the highlight was seeing Paris (including the Eiffel Tower) from Parc de Belleville! Made me wonder why I'd never gone there before.

My favorite activity was meeting friendly women.

I just wish I could figure out how the answers to these questions could be of any use to someone.

Paris does not rock my boat to begin with but the Eiffel Tower left me uninspired.

Favorites were climbing up to the top top top of Sacre Couer and watching the sun set. Also loved the Rodin museum - the works are so beautiful and sensual (watch the movie Camille Caudel before you go). Tea at Mariage Frere in the Marais or Hot Chocloate at Angelina on a rainy day. The concerts at St. Chappelle - there is one in the evening - sit in back and enjoy the music as the sun fades through the stained glass. The Malcolm Miller tour (not sure if he is still doing it - I have not been to Paris since 2000) at Chartres - I went for the morning tour and stayed for the afternoon it was so interesting.

Hi PB,

>...did one place you visited surprise you and made your trip? Or were you really excited about seeing something and were slightly disappointed?<

Yes.

Don't overplan Paris. There is much too much to see, smell, hear, touch, taste and do.

Just go and enjoy it.

Then go again.

and again.

and again.

Bookmarking

sandmann,

I too had the cassoulet at Baracane (now called Bistrot de l’Oulette) - fabulous!!

Monica

For anyone who was disappointed by the Musée du Louvre, I would suggest giving it a second chance, this time heading away from the crowds around la Joconde or the Winged Victory. I was there at least twice a week for about six months, and I hate crowds, but there were rarely too many people where I was working.

Pick up a map at the information desk, decide what interests you, and head there. You can't possibly do the whole thing in one visit (or even many). I know I've barely scratched the surface.

Don't be too quick to write it off. Besides being a repository for some amazing art, the building itself has been a major part of the history of France since the Middle Ages. You may just change your opinion.

Too many favorites to pick from, but the only one that was a little bit of a let-down was the Champs Elysees. It reminded me of the French version of Mall of America -- touristy, crowded and overpriced. It was fun the first day, but a little of that went a long way. I was bummed when I saw a GAP and a McDonalds.

My first trip to Paris was in 1956. I was in the army in Germany and went there on leave. A friend gave me the address of a young lady who had been an exchange student in US so I, unannounced, knocked on the door, and Paris was opened to me! I had dinner with her family, we, and some of her friends did a "night on the town"- to places where many tourists didn't go- one a place that had jazz and scotch- all you can drink- and then onion soup at a very early hour ... and a ride in a convertible around Place de la Concorde at dawn. Won't forget it, even tho' I have been back over the years, I remember that more vividly ... and remember the friendship of those who welcomed a stranger knocking on their door.

For those who think that the Champs Elysées is seedy now, until about 1990, it had 2 porno cinemas on it.

I always take in concerts at the various churchesin Paris, try to attend ones of Mozart, Chopin - so far have been to La Madeleine, St. Julien Le Pauvre (oldest church in Paris, 1200 years old) and St Chappelle - and have seen and heard the street musicians usually around St. Germain.

Most stunning and surprising would have to be climbing the ancient small narrow circular stairs to St. Chappelle - and then they burst open to the chapel,. built of , surrounded by- with it must be of 70 feet tall of stained glass - straight up - so magnificent - I was stunned and just stood there unable to move forward drinking it in. I was going to an evening concert at St. Chappelle but had no idea that was what was inside ! And then the concert was 7 violins and a cello - excellent accoustics - and it sounded like a 40 piece orchestra !!! I'm looking forward to going back again and again - maybe lucky enough next time to see it with the sun streaming through the windows.

Next place I really enjoy, the courtyard of the Louvre (even more than the inside) Just sit there or walk around and look up at the statues in the arches, the architecture - fascinating and beautiful - this used to be the jousting area back in the day you know.

Next Musee d' Orsay: love the animal sculptures outside - and the magnificent sculptures inside - another place that I wished I had more time to linger - surprised that the famous paintings: Van Gogh, Monet colors on the originals were slightly faded, not as brilliant coloring as photographs of same.

Mildly Disappointing: the famous painting "Mona LIsa", More Interesting, directly opposite Da Vinci has painted another woman, much more beautiful painting.

Enamored of the ceiling paintings at Versaille.

Enjoyed, loved The Luxembourg Gardens - lucky enough to be there on a Sunday, this May to see the children sailing their boats with their parents, and the statues of all the Queens - such an enchanting place - wish I had had more time to sit and enjoy, although during the time I did, other tourists from Copenhagen, from Germany, from all over chatted with me.

I love the mussels and escargot at the famous Leon's of Bruxelles, near the Luxembourg..on rue St Michel is it? or right in that area anyway....and that the waiter remembered me on my next visit too

Amazed at the acres of garden at Rodin..an oasis inside the city -

this was my second visit to Paris...and I always wish I could stay...forever. And of course my intention is to return every year -

I have to admit that on my second trip to Paris my friend and I decided to go to the Moulin Rouge with all of the other crazy tourists just to say we did. We waited in line outside in the cold for 45 minutes, were squashed into a table, watched a worn-out show and got home very late. Now I can really tell people what not to spend their money on. The other thing I am admitting to is that we also visited the Sex Museum. Actually it was interesting in a perverse sort of way. (But don't tell anyone!)

Favorites- Luxembourg Gardens and the Louvre (Sorry I can't just name one.)

Disappointment- St. Chappelle. I didn't think it lived up to all of the hype.

I am just the reverse of previous poster.

Got claustrophobic in Louvre but loved
the openness of the D'Orsay.

Also liked St. Chapelle prob. due to the Vivaldi concert. It seems European churches have great acoustics for classical music.

Glad to hear others thought Champs Elysee was seedy. As I walked up the boulevard & looked left & right, I wondered what all the hype was about.

I don't mind the CE at its "bottom end"--once you get past rue Marbeuf, it becomes a LOT less seedy and its elegance begins to peek through.

My favorite non-touristy activity in Paris was the days I spent under the Louvre in the national research laboratories where some of the world's greatest works of art undergo scientific analysis. I spent time there with a radiologist who exchanged hospital work for a full time job x-ray paintings and sculpture.

My favorite "regular" tourist activity is just strolling along, stopping at cafes whenever the mood strikes.

The Guimet museum was a pleasant surprise, much more impressive than I had expected.

Biggest disappointment is and ever shall be the Montmartre/Sacre Coeur area. Seedy, dirty, crowded. I loathed the Anvers metro area, couldn't wait to leave.

I know the Marais has its fans, but it left us lukewarm. We don't dislike it, but generally don't go over there anymore without a specific reason.

I didn't read all the responses so forgive me if I am repetitive. We stumbled across the zoo by accident, it was a wonderful find as was St. Germain-en-Laye. I could also spend the entire day in MOntmartre, sipping some wine & watching the artists. The D'Orsay (too me) while awesome, did not live up to the hype.

Favorites:
- Musee de Camondo - owned by a Turkish Jewish family that moved to Paris, created a beautiful house and collected art work, died in the holocaust;
- The other small museums mentioned by others - Rodin, Orsay, etc.
- Wandering around, poking my head into little boutiques;
- Having a kir royale before dinner
- Great wine tasting led by sommellier Olivier Magny in an underground cave once used by one of the kings of France (info can be found at www.o-chateau.com)
- Enjoying the pace, the food, the walkable city;
No real disappointments, but the Louvre does try my patience. I start out in awe and love the amazing art, and end up tired and cranky...

I have read from experianced travlers here and on other travel boards that the Champs Elysee and the Louvre are a let down? The two things my husband wants to do in Paris are, see the mona lisa in person and drink wine on the Champs Elysee. I hope he isn't too disapponited.

IJ - Mona Lisa is only disappointing to those for whom size matters. First time visitors to Paris are struck with how small the Mona Lisa is and how large the Eiffel Tower is.
...and drinking wine anywhere in France...impossible to be a disappointment.

Thanks rob. I tell him all the time size doesn't really matter...... LOL J/K

Absolutely no point in drinking wine on the Champs Elysées. There are a thousand other good places, many of which are along the Seine or in heights of Montmartre, Menilmontant or the Buttes Chaumont.

Favorite Activity: Eating Chocolate Croissants.

Paris' parcs are spectacular, especially this time of year. Don't miss Parc de Monceau (in the 8ieme, at Metro Monceau) with its lake and statuary and the adjacent Avenue Ruysdael or the larger Parc des Buttes Chaumont (in the 19ieme) starting at Metro Botzaris and leaving, if you wish, at Metro Buttes Chaumont. The more "modern-tech" Parc Andre Citroen (15ieme) is worth the short walk from the Javel or Balard Metro.

Biggest surprise about Paris besides the incredible friendly people was walking in the morning( markets, quiet, sunrise on notre dame, and people watching-everyday people.) I was very dissapointed with the tower, it was great to see from a distance or taking a nap on the grass underneath but I have no desire to go up it again.

idaho jane,

I don't think your husband will be disappointed with Mona Lisa or the Louvre. Just be deliberate in your planning. Try to visit the museum first thing in the morning and I would say try to get to the Mona Lisa before the mobs get too crazy.

I think we had a wonderful experience because I hired Michael Osman as a tour guide and one of my requests was to tour the highlights of the Louvre. It is a spectacular museum but it can be difficult to navigate if you have never been there. Even if a personal guide is not something that you are interested in, I think that the museum does tours at certain times. It might be worth looking into so you can utilize your time well.

Well, mine is touristy, but I really liked Notre Dame, especially taking the stairs to the roof area. One of my favorite photos is that famous shot, taken from the roof, with a gargoyle in the left-side of frame, and the Eiffel Tower in the distance.

Not too many disappointments; I didn't care for the Champs Elysees and its shops.

Edited to add: I am never unimpressed with the Louvre. To see the Code of Hammurabi (predates Moses' commandments), the Venus, the Nike, and all the rest - along with the palace itself - is amazing.

Because I love Paris, and want to end on a positive note, I'll start with the disappointment:

The Champs Elysees. For years I'd heard about this beautiful, tree-lined, avenue - "the most beautiful avenue in the world". The reality was a concrete-lined, tourist-thronged, high street. Admittedly, there were trees on the lower section of the Champs - but "the most beautiful avenue in the world"? I think not.

Favourites. There are so many. So the top 2. 1. My friend took me for a picnic in the Parc de Sceaux (just south of central Paris, easily reached on RER B). Acres of beautiful green grass, a rather impressive lake, an outdoor swimming pool - and not a non-French person in sight (yours truly accepted).

2. Montmartre. Of all the time spent in Paris, the afternoon spent wandering around the back-streets of Montmartre, stopping off at a pavement cafe for a cool drink or two, is one of my most cherished memories. But I HATED the area around Place du Tertre. Just too many people. Admittedly, Sacre Coeur is an astoudingly beautiful building. But I just couldn't wait to escape the throng. Neither could my friend who was dragging me quickly through the crowds If you do visit Montmartre, and all you see is SC and Place du Tertre, you will probably leave disappointed - and have missed the beauty "just round the corner". There is a good walking map at www.hotelsreviewed.com/walks/paris-montmartre-walk.html which is a great start. Once you get past Place du Tertre of course.

The Mussée Cernuschi in the Parc Monceau was a favorite visit. This ia a hotel particulat that houses the Asiatic collection of Henry Cernushi and he bequeathed to the city of Paris. One of the Buddhas was of special interest to me. It was donated by Rene Vivian whose birth name was Pauline Tarn. She was a poet/writer and lover of Nathalie Barney known as the Amazon and close friend of the French writer colette who described this buddha in Tarn's home that had a collection of curiosites.

I like to order some mussels, some frites, a nice chilled Chablis & sit @ the edge of the main square where the artists congregate. We had our daughters portrait done there when she was two, my son just turned two, so we're do for a trip over.

I find this thread very valuable. It's inspiring a return trip for DH and me, and we were just there in February.

I'm not sure what my disappoint might be...maybe the ultra modern gardens around the Quay Branly museums weren't thrilling, but they certainly weren't a waste of my time.

This last trip, the thing that blew me away was Chartres. I know it wasn't Paris, but it was part of our trip to Paris. I loved the medieval town and river, and river banks, and we spent so much time in the ancient gardens below the Cathedral. It was wonderful, beautiful. We loved it.

I'm a sucker for all things Paris, I guess. I like the Champs, especially strolling all the way out past the Arc d'Triomphe, or watching the memorial ceremony when you get there in the late afternoon. I really like the auto show rooms, and I love Sephora. I've been in Sephoras other places, but Sephora on the Champs is like make up Disney World.

My friend dissauded me from going to St Denis, so now I have to return once again, and go see for myself.

Even if you removed most of the art from the walls of the Louvre, it would still be one of the most impressive buildings in town.

The fact that the world's greatest art collection is there...well, that's a whole lot of icing on the cake, isn't it?

Most disappointing? When we were in Paris on our honeymoon in 1999, we arrived in the middle of a museum workers' strike. So the Arc and most of the major museums were closed. We'd go down to the Louvre wher the guards at the door had a list of what few museums were open that day. One day the Cluny was listed as being open the next day - so we went, only to find it closed due to flooding from a major downpour the previous afternoon. We still ahd a great time.

When we went to take the train to Venice, the rail workers were on strike; the train was late, disorganized and manned by management. We finally made it Italy, where the unionized workers were more energetic and reliable.

the day we flew home from Venice, the Paris transit was on strike. Apparently they went out to protest the lack of security for Metro workers, bcause one was found dead on the job. Th next day an autopsy revealed he died of natural causes.

Best experiences?
Our "worst experience" gave us a good reason to go back.
Just walking around; it was so different. Our first impression of Paris was coming out of the Metro at Republique to find our hotel, only to walk through an amazing array of street market stalls.
The "beam-me-up-Scotty" elevator in our 15th century hotel building. Toilets cramped enough for an airplane...
Versailles, and the kids rollerblading there on the checkered central court.
The Metro. The public pay washrooms in the Metro, with attendants, very clean. By 2006 they seemed to be dissappearing.
All the museums; the Eiffel tower.
The traffic.
Trying to speak French and being answered in English. "one" is a thumb up, not the index finger.
Cold drinks - a rarity in 1999 more so than 2006, but the coldest and cheapest were in the vending machines in the Metro stations.
The trick rollerbladers in the public square near the Louvre; I had never before seen anyone stop on rollerblades by sliding both feet sideways like ice skates.

The most interesting thing was going through the catacombs and seeing all those bones. I explain to everyone that the photo is "me with all the polite waiters in Paris".

My Wife and I just returned from our first trip to Paris.
St. Chappelle took my breath away. It was totally unexpected and we really only went in because there was such a long line at Notre Dame and it was raining outside so we ran up to St. Chapelle. Just as we went up the stairway and entered the main chapel upstairs, the sun broke through the clouds and the room filled with light. Everyone in the room gasped at the same time.
I was actually a bit disapointed in Notre Dame. Outside Notre Dame is incredible but once we got inside I was not really that impressed. Maybe that is because we just spent 10 days in Spain and had been in so many other Gothic style churches.
Over all the 3 days we spent in Paris were the best part of a month long European trip and I was not expecting to like Paris at all so I guess I would say that Paris itself was my best surprise.

the louvre is ok. Im not into renaissance art. although I went to orsay twice because i LOVED it.

my memory is failing me, I'll check my notes when i get home, but the lil things are amazing, the fabulous bakery with the best cheese bread and pear caramel tarts EVER. the mint tea in the completely mosaic covered turkish/arabic sauna spa...(got a very european massage in Paris, they aren't shy at all)...

I'll write more tonight...I LOVED Paris.

The best thing> negotiating the cost of the taxi cab from the airport hotel to the city centre, Tour Eiffel.Walking the streets and seeing the Arc di Triumph.

The let down> (well not really, but....) finding out the cabdriver expected more from our negotiations. Like I thought I knew what I said, but I probably said more that waht I thought....francs....back to school!

Big disappointment...a day in January so cold (a record!) we decided to stay on tour bus for several rounds...saw things we had never seen before...not a bad day after all.
Paris is always good unless you walk too much, it is too hot or too cold, don't stop to eat, get grouchy, but when you do stop to eat..it all gets great again.

to monicapileggi:
I viewed your interesting photos of Paris! I am going in July and am wondering....what is the name of the inside shopping area you have posted in your pictures (around #580 or so)? It has a glass paneled roof and tiled floors with lots and lots of interesting little shops and restaurants inside. Please advise...and thank you!

Many years ago I went to the Musee Grevin and found it to be quite disappointing. However, last year I was in Paris with my 11 y.o. niece and we went to the Musee Grevin and it was wonderful. I especially liked the theater and cafe rooms that display various artists, musicians, actors, etc. Being a huge Serge Gainsbourg fan, it was fun to see him "standing" at a bar.

--Make sure you get a Nutella crepe in one of the parks (Luxembourg?)! They are freshly made in the little kiosks around the parks, and it is amazing to sit under the trees, eat a warm molten-chocolate crepe and people watch. Messy, delicious, and quintessentially Parisian!

--Try to attend an evening concert at St. Chappelle. The acoustics are fabulous, and you can admire the windows as the sun goes down.

--In Montmartre, check out a little store called Pylones. It has amazing, inexpensive kitschy items that are witty, brightly colored and great souvenirs! Yes, they have a branch in NYC, but the Paris one is still fabulous.

--Least favorite: stay away from the Champs Elysees! Overpriced and ultra-touristy, this is NOT the Paris that people dream about. Go for the small streets (Left Bank, Marais, etc) for a real Paris feel.

<<HI,

My favorite thing to do was the Batobus. It was fun to see the sites and chat with other passengers while floating down the Seine and then getting off at the various sites..

As far a what we loved most of the sites was our walk up the Eiffel tower. Notre Dame ( taking the little bridge over to the restraints and eating there and experiencing watching the street musicians and such and the people strolling by). Rodin museum was small enough to really read all the information posted about the artists life and see his collection of art that inspired some of his work, and the garden was also worth seeing. Invalides park area, had beautiful trees that sent a fragrance through the air, made walking there special.

Our hotel was located near the Eiffel Tower and one day a street flea market was set up and that was a favorite memory for us, as it lead us down a small side street with a wonderful bakery and small family owned restaurants and quirkily little clothing stores. Lots of locals there as well. One day evens seeing the children being took to school was interesting. Luxemburg Gardens was great too. Can you tell I like to people watch.


So I can say our best memories and things we liked best about Paris, were seeing the people and seeing how Parisians spend part of there day and how nice all the people were to us, even when we got lost one day, a nice man going to work stopped to point us in the right direction. So I would say the people were my favorite of all memories.

My least favorite were the women beggars who interrupted our walks, many times. They didn't look like the homeless here were I live, they were well dressed and looked well fed, and later in the day I saw several strolling down the street just laughing and looked like they were having a wonderful time discussing what ever. I see true poverty where I live and those that beg for money , are truly in need, even if the reason they are begging is due to drug use or poor choices, they at least really are hungry and sleeping on the street. The beggars I say reminded me of scanners, not impoverished people in need. So that was my least favorite thing in Paris.

Barb>>

1teacher, I looked up Monica's pictures, and the first ones are of the Galerie Vivienne which is directly behind the Palais Royal gardens, on the way to Place des Victoires.

The last photo where you see a lot of shop signs is a different galerie, probably Passage des Panoramas or Passage Jouffroy right across from it. They are on the Grands Boulevards, next to the Musée Grevin.

To "Kerouac":
Thanks so much for helping identify those pictures from "Monica"! I traveled to Paris last month (late July and this was my sixth time there) and only had two days so we hit the most famous spots only (I was a group leader with 15 high school students). Our flight was delayed taking off because of thunderstorms at O'Hare. Maybe when I go back to Paris, someday with my husband I can see the sights (that you helped identify for me!)that are not as well-known! I'd love to see Place de Vosges, in particular! Is there anyone out there who could give me more details about this site (shops, restaurants, etc..)? Again THANK YOU!

Every trip, five and counting, we take the metro to whichever stop is below Montmartre and follow a self-guided tour up to Sacre Coeur. We stop along the way to read about where, e.g. Picasso first worked at the batteaux lavoir. We browse around the "artist's square," and usually have a drink and a snack at one of the surrounding cafes, then walk around the church. We walk down the other side past the lapin Agile, etc, usually get lost for a while, then come back to the 6th.

Last trip we when twice; Our usual trip, but then we went back at night to have dinner.

Le Poulbot, 39 rue Lamarck. All of the seating is inside and there is no view, but the food is very good and priced reasonably. We had dinner for two, two appitizers, platters, desert and a bottle of wine for 54.00 e. I found this...

"Engravings of Old Montmartre and discreet lighting create a relaxed, comfortable conviviality at this tiny neighborhood restaurant named after the chef and owner's favorite painter, Francisque Poulbot. Working in a mostly traditional register, Jean-Paul Langevin whips up dishes such as escargots on artichoke hearts and roast duckling with turnips. There's a well-chosen wine list and good-buy prix-fixe menus for EUR18 and EUR33. Métro: Lamarck Caulaincourt. "

Pjk

I had my "movie moment". We had walked up the stairs to Sacre Coeur and were between the carousel on the street and the stairs that lead to the doors of the church looking at the city when the guy playing the harp behind us started to play "La Vie en Rose"!

Arriving quite late to this chat - thanks to all for some suggestions I've jotted down for next time ...

No one above mentioned the Flea Markets of Clingancourt. (Le Marche aux Puces St-Ouen) No, it's not exactly a bargain hunter's paradise, but it does offer some of the world's best browsing. Interested in a booth packed with vintage Louis Vuitton (of the kind owned by princes and queens) or a shop stacked with thousands of pieces of Baccarat? Tons of antiques, interesting people, and fun bargaining if you do find something of interest. I picked up a silverplate deco coffee pot, looks like it might have served Josephine Baker herself. There is also a tiny bar somewhere amid the shops along the street, where Django played, his photos on the wall for proof. A good excuse to have a Ricard or coffee. I can't say Le Marche (really should be LES marches, as they are so expansive) was a surprise, but definitely a fun way to spend a Sunday morning.

The best way to enjoy the Champs Elysee is in a fast car! That's what it's there for, so go with it. And try to imagine this broad avenue filled with the tanks and soldiers of occupying Germans - or the triumphant allies.

Likewise, for all the Tour Eiffel's iconic stature and romance, the unimpressed might try to remember what a revolution it signalled - the tallest structure in the world, no other view like it in its day. All of us who have looked out of quotidian offices on floors higher than the top deck of the tower are pretty blase about such things - but imagine what is was!

For shopping, instead of the Champs E. and the chain stores, try the boutiques of the Marais and the 5th. Interesting and personal. And my favorite hardware store, BHV.

My facorite surprise: giving up the jet lag fight at 5:00 AM to take a walk around Ile de la Cite and Ile St. Louis. Such a pleasure I did it a second day, too. Watching the city wake up, enjoying a coffee and croissant in a tiny bar with early risers, all jabbering about the news of the day. Trying to translate headlines of the newspapers, enjoying the changing light of the new day.

For all who suffered a let-down on the Champs Elysees, I have a suggestion.

Next time, just gaze up or down the length of the boulevard--don't concentrate on the modernities on either side.

After all, many a beautiful woman disappoints the closer one approaches and examines!

Cheers,

Jinx Hoover

1teacher, sorry I missed your questions. Yes kerouac is correct about the passagges - the second one was Panorama. Here's a web site for the passages: http://www.parisinconnu.com/passages/index.htm

My Paris journal: http://www.luvtotravel.homestead.com/Paris2007.html

Monica ((F)

Tomasso- I love your suggestions of the D Day troops driving down the Champs Elysee. I'll remember that when I visit next month. I don't have high expectations on the area.

Definately the most disapointing was eating in Restraunts, poor quality meat that they try and disguise by smothering in Sauces.

The sightseeing is very good Paris is so compact you can see it in one day if necessary.

Maybe half a day if you are really quick.

Good one kerouac...

I have two stories to redeem the Champs Elysee experience...

First: I was in Paris alone, first time. Walking late at night, having done way too much and feeling exhausted. There was little of interest there and I felt I was simply fulfilling an obligation as a first-time visitor. As I wandered down toward home, I happened upon Sephora. It was like Disney Land, and having not yet arrived in America, the store was a totally new concept for me. It was sheer joy, playing with all those high-end goodies, all self-serve, that I'd never bother with back home. Those black clad employees with their white gloves. It was really something. A small purchase netted a huge quantity of samples thrown in the bag.

Second story: Back in Paris with DD for the first time, we arrived in the evening and I asked her where she wanted to go. Eiffel Tower? Arc de Triomphe? Non, maman. Sephora!

So, we traipsed up to the C.E., a thunder storm brewing and wind whipping the dust up like mad in the Tuilleries. As we crossed the Place de la Concorde, we saw huge crowds of pedestrians and realized the CE was closed to motor traffic. There was a huge exhibition of France's beloved trains, rails had been laid down the center of the CE and cars of every era were on display at either side of the Avenue.

We walked up the center of the Champs. People were taking photos standing at the crest of the hill, with the Arc in the background. We had a feeling we were seeing a once-in-a-lifetime occurrence.

There are other stories -- a choral rehearsal in Notre Dame, a lightning storm during a late night opening at the Louvre sans crowds, a picnic on the grass on the Champs de Mars (which I later found out was interdit!), etc., etc.

Such is the nature of Paris.

Regarding the earlier posts on Canal St Martin --

We were in Paris in March and took the Canal St Martin boat tour. We noticed the homeless people and "tent cities" along the canal as well. The guide explained this was some type of public demonstration to draw attention to homelessness - perhaps those that live in Paris know about it and can elaborate. But we were of the understanding that this was some type of protest/demonstration...

Otherwise, we very much enjoyed the Canal St Martin tour... lots of history along the way which we both love.

Most disappointing in three trips... immediate area around Sacre Couer ... we were approached too many times by those "artists" and it all felt way too artificial.

But Paris never really disappoints...

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