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What must I see in Wales?

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We (husband and I) are roughing out plans for a trip to Wales, northern England, and Scotland in late June and into July. Fodorites -- what MUST I see/do in Wales that is either not that well covered in the guidebooks, or not given its due attention?

We will likely spend 5-6 nights or so in Wales. We will probably stay in 2 places, and do day trips from those locations.

We'd like to see some of the major castles; a famous garden; take one (or more) of the narrow guage trains; enjoy picturesque towns; try to hear one of the men's choirs. Probably some rambling/walking/hiking. We'll be happy to find a good market day.

My husband is into photography, and looks forward to picturesque towns, historic buildings, and landscapes of sea and mountains.

We will have a car. Any advice about hotels, restaurants, etc. is also welcome.

We are not on a strict budget, but appreciate good value and a good kitchen.

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