We leave for Umbria in a week! Any parting shots from recent travelers?
Jun 12th, 2011, 09:04 AM
#1
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We leave for Umbria in a week! Any parting shots from recent travelers?
Are there any recent Umbrian revelations that I should be aware of before we leave?
New restaurant finds? Old standbys that have disappointed?
Where did you taste that delicious olive oil you can't get out off your taste buds?
Where did you find that piece of pottery that you wished you'd splurged on, but didn't...or maybe you did?
Any museum shows or gallery shows that are not to be missed?
We will be based in Spello with an overnight in Orvieto.
grazie
New restaurant finds? Old standbys that have disappointed?
Where did you taste that delicious olive oil you can't get out off your taste buds?
Where did you find that piece of pottery that you wished you'd splurged on, but didn't...or maybe you did?
Any museum shows or gallery shows that are not to be missed?
We will be based in Spello with an overnight in Orvieto.
grazie
Jun 12th, 2011, 09:25 AM
#3
we did a day trip to Orvieto from Rome and loved it.
the only disappointment was the tour of the underground workings who we booked through the tourist office opposite the duomo- it was pretty tedious.
the duomo itself was fantastic - I could spend hours just looking at the front.
we also enjoyed climbing the tower and the pasta dish we had at the restaurant opposite. -tagliatelli with wild boar sauce. Yumsk.
the only disappointment was the tour of the underground workings who we booked through the tourist office opposite the duomo- it was pretty tedious.
the duomo itself was fantastic - I could spend hours just looking at the front.
we also enjoyed climbing the tower and the pasta dish we had at the restaurant opposite. -tagliatelli with wild boar sauce. Yumsk.
Jun 12th, 2011, 09:29 AM
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Eat dinner here in Orvieto: http://www.ilgigliodoro.it/index_eng.htm
We are planning to go back ourselves, as it was where we had one of the best dining experiences in any/all of our travels.
We are planning to go back ourselves, as it was where we had one of the best dining experiences in any/all of our travels.
Jun 12th, 2011, 09:34 AM
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@annhig -- sorry your tour of the underground was not good. We had a terrific experience, and the guide was probably the main reason why. She was full of great stories, but got people asking questions and imagining why and how some things were done. I often forget how some of those tours can be good or bad based purely on the expertise or interest of the guide.
Jun 12th, 2011, 10:29 AM
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grazie bfrac, uhoh_busted, annhig.
Il Giglio d'Oro might be a little over the top for our first dinner in Italy, but then again it might be the perfect way to start the trip off with a bang.
We're going to try the underground tour and see what happens.
I can't wait to see the Duomo. I have been waiting for this for a long time. I'm praying for no scaffolding!
Il Giglio d'Oro might be a little over the top for our first dinner in Italy, but then again it might be the perfect way to start the trip off with a bang.
We're going to try the underground tour and see what happens.
I can't wait to see the Duomo. I have been waiting for this for a long time. I'm praying for no scaffolding!
Jun 12th, 2011, 05:27 PM
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iamq,
I am SO jealous! You are visiting two of my favorite towns (so far)!
Enjoy, both are wonderful, take your time. Spello is tiny, but walk around. Go up to the top and see the view of Assisi at night. Have a glass of vino in the garden of the bar/gallateria just up the street from Palazzo Bocci and enjoy that view. Wander the tiny, steep and ancient vicoli (correct word?). Enjoy the creative shop windows. One of my favorite photos is of a bakery - very creative bread display....
Orvieto has MUCH to see. Start early and spend as much time as you can. Wonderful shops and galleries, ceramics, wine, the well, the undergroud tour, the Etruscan excavation site just below the town.
Buon viaggo!
I am SO jealous! You are visiting two of my favorite towns (so far)!
Enjoy, both are wonderful, take your time. Spello is tiny, but walk around. Go up to the top and see the view of Assisi at night. Have a glass of vino in the garden of the bar/gallateria just up the street from Palazzo Bocci and enjoy that view. Wander the tiny, steep and ancient vicoli (correct word?). Enjoy the creative shop windows. One of my favorite photos is of a bakery - very creative bread display....
Orvieto has MUCH to see. Start early and spend as much time as you can. Wonderful shops and galleries, ceramics, wine, the well, the undergroud tour, the Etruscan excavation site just below the town.
Buon viaggo!
Jun 12th, 2011, 06:38 PM
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Piece of pottery: Yes, a lovely ceramic blue and cream basket with twisted handles (I think it was made in Gubbio) that I saw in a shop in Spello. It was the logistics of getting it home in one piece with several more stops to go rather than the price.
Jun 12th, 2011, 07:43 PM
#10
Il Molino you probably already know about; across the street from it within a block or two is a fabulous shop for culinary herbs and such -- I'd recommend getting a bunch of the herb mix packets (for risotto, etc.) -- both to use and as wonderful small gifts. (I may have already shared this point but just wanted to make sure. I'll see if I can track down the name of it.
If you get to Perugia there are a couple of wonderful linen shops, but also in Spello in this same block as the herb shop is a shop with linens and gorgeous pillows -- you can take out the pillow form so any you purchase will fit in your suitcase easily. I'm enjoying this sumptuous 12 inch blue, yellow, and gold pillow right now!
If you get to Perugia there are a couple of wonderful linen shops, but also in Spello in this same block as the herb shop is a shop with linens and gorgeous pillows -- you can take out the pillow form so any you purchase will fit in your suitcase easily. I'm enjoying this sumptuous 12 inch blue, yellow, and gold pillow right now!
Jun 12th, 2011, 08:12 PM
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Hi Dayle,
We are planning on doing Todi, either on the way from Orvieto to Spello or after our trip to the ruins of Carsulae later in the trip. There is a restaurant there that I really want to try It depends on how much of Orvieto we get to see the first day we are in Orvieto and how much time we want to spend in Orvieto the next day.
ann, is the shop called Hispellum? They have their own olive oil, but it is apparently a gourmet shop with all sorts of food items like wild boar sausage from Norcia (YUM). Thanks for the tip on the fabric store.
We are planning on doing Todi, either on the way from Orvieto to Spello or after our trip to the ruins of Carsulae later in the trip. There is a restaurant there that I really want to try It depends on how much of Orvieto we get to see the first day we are in Orvieto and how much time we want to spend in Orvieto the next day.
ann, is the shop called Hispellum? They have their own olive oil, but it is apparently a gourmet shop with all sorts of food items like wild boar sausage from Norcia (YUM). Thanks for the tip on the fabric store.
Jun 13th, 2011, 01:03 AM
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Definitely check out this blog post on the foods to try! http://www.walksofitaly.com/blog/flo...lties-florence
I've traveled through Umbria many times, and to Orvieto about 6 times. Orvieto is fantastic, there is a wonderful restaurant in an old etruscan cave called "Le Grotte del Funaro" http://www.grottedelfunaro.it/ it is a must try! Right now summer black truffles are in season, so splurge on those, eat as many as possible! Make sure as well to see the Luca Signorelli frescos in Orvieto's Duomo, in the san brizio chapel, they are spectacular.
I'd highly recommend stopping off in Montefalco if you get the chance and trying the local sagrantino di montefalco, one of Italy's top wine areas and varietals by far. It is also a lovely little hilltop town with great prices on wine. The main church there (I want to say San Lorenzo...) has incredible frescos by little-known but superb Umbrian early renaissance artist Benozzo Gozzoli, as well as some by Perugino. The little ancient Roman town of Bevagna nearby may also be worth a visit, if you have the time. Not sure on your driving route, but thought I'd throw some more ideas out there for ya!
I've traveled through Umbria many times, and to Orvieto about 6 times. Orvieto is fantastic, there is a wonderful restaurant in an old etruscan cave called "Le Grotte del Funaro" http://www.grottedelfunaro.it/ it is a must try! Right now summer black truffles are in season, so splurge on those, eat as many as possible! Make sure as well to see the Luca Signorelli frescos in Orvieto's Duomo, in the san brizio chapel, they are spectacular.
I'd highly recommend stopping off in Montefalco if you get the chance and trying the local sagrantino di montefalco, one of Italy's top wine areas and varietals by far. It is also a lovely little hilltop town with great prices on wine. The main church there (I want to say San Lorenzo...) has incredible frescos by little-known but superb Umbrian early renaissance artist Benozzo Gozzoli, as well as some by Perugino. The little ancient Roman town of Bevagna nearby may also be worth a visit, if you have the time. Not sure on your driving route, but thought I'd throw some more ideas out there for ya!
Jun 13th, 2011, 08:42 AM
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The single most amazing thing you could at this time of year is drive up to the Piano Grande, which is above Norcia. You might even catch the last of the wildflowers, but even if not, it is one of the most beautiful scenic sights in all of Italy, and it will be much cooler up there than down on the Umbrian plain.
Most people go up through Norcia, but if you are not made uncomfortable by a back route, go via the town of Visso, where you will not only see a lovely hidden away town, untouched by foreign tourism, you can sample the local delicacies for lunch. from there you can reach the Piano Grande (via the famous lentil growing town, Castellucio). After taking it in, you can descend to Norcia for some shopping.
Were it my trip, I would do two things very early on in my stay in Spello: I would go to the richly important museum of Umbrian painting in Perugia (the National Gallery of Umbrian art) because of all the museums in Italy I've been to, it is the one that I think most vividly brings to life just what a small group of painters decorated the most famous churches in Italy. People imagine they all learned their art in Florence, but in fact Umbria was a hotbed of ideas and once you see this museum, you will never look at a church fresco the same way again.
The other thing I would do early on is go up to Montefalco to catch a breeze, buy several bottles of their exquisite red wine, Sagrantino, and visit the tiny museum with frescoes by Gozzoli.
On the day I went to the Piano Grande, I would swing by Norcia to purchase their specialities -- including a small jar of preserved black truffles plus fresh pasta -- bring them back to wherever I was staying, cook the pasta, toss it with the truffles, pour the Sagrantino wine, and maybe nibble a bit of Perugian chocolate as a finale.
Have a great time.
Most people go up through Norcia, but if you are not made uncomfortable by a back route, go via the town of Visso, where you will not only see a lovely hidden away town, untouched by foreign tourism, you can sample the local delicacies for lunch. from there you can reach the Piano Grande (via the famous lentil growing town, Castellucio). After taking it in, you can descend to Norcia for some shopping.
Were it my trip, I would do two things very early on in my stay in Spello: I would go to the richly important museum of Umbrian painting in Perugia (the National Gallery of Umbrian art) because of all the museums in Italy I've been to, it is the one that I think most vividly brings to life just what a small group of painters decorated the most famous churches in Italy. People imagine they all learned their art in Florence, but in fact Umbria was a hotbed of ideas and once you see this museum, you will never look at a church fresco the same way again.
The other thing I would do early on is go up to Montefalco to catch a breeze, buy several bottles of their exquisite red wine, Sagrantino, and visit the tiny museum with frescoes by Gozzoli.
On the day I went to the Piano Grande, I would swing by Norcia to purchase their specialities -- including a small jar of preserved black truffles plus fresh pasta -- bring them back to wherever I was staying, cook the pasta, toss it with the truffles, pour the Sagrantino wine, and maybe nibble a bit of Perugian chocolate as a finale.
Have a great time.
Jun 13th, 2011, 09:33 AM
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It's been several years since we were in Umbria, but the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore in Spello with its fabulous Pinturicchio frescoes is still a vivid memory. The ceramics shop where I saw the basket may have been on that street or on the street of the Pinturicchio restaurant where we had an excellent lunch.
Jun 13th, 2011, 04:26 PM
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zeppole,
We arrive in Spello on Wednesday and we are headed to Piano Grande either Thursday or Friday. Norcia is one of the reasons I chose Umbria for this trip. We are stocking up on all sorts of delicious things. The truffle paste on pasta sounds wonderful.
I sort had my heart set on having lunch in Norcia at Granaro del Monte at the Hotel Grotta Azzurra and shopping before lunch. Then heading to Piano Grande all the way to Visso and them back down to Spello. What do you think of that idea. Your idea in reverse?
What time do the shops in Norcia reopen after the afternoon closing?
The route you suggested was also suggested by someone else. Eating at the Taverna in Castelluccio is also highly recommended. So many choices and options! We might have to go to the area twice!
We arrive in Spello on Wednesday and we are headed to Piano Grande either Thursday or Friday. Norcia is one of the reasons I chose Umbria for this trip. We are stocking up on all sorts of delicious things. The truffle paste on pasta sounds wonderful.
I sort had my heart set on having lunch in Norcia at Granaro del Monte at the Hotel Grotta Azzurra and shopping before lunch. Then heading to Piano Grande all the way to Visso and them back down to Spello. What do you think of that idea. Your idea in reverse?
What time do the shops in Norcia reopen after the afternoon closing?
The route you suggested was also suggested by someone else. Eating at the Taverna in Castelluccio is also highly recommended. So many choices and options! We might have to go to the area twice!
Jun 13th, 2011, 10:52 PM
#19
Hispellum, yes that sounds like the right place! Loved it! Stock up!!
Will you get to Perugia? If so -- by train or car? If by car, I understand the little red cars/funicular/streetcars (I forget what they call them) apparently operate from areas outside the antique center up top; we took the train and then took them up to the top of the hill/town. If you go there also there are escalators somewhat hidden but worth seeking out. Food also excellent in Perugia, and a wonderful passagiata. I second their remarkable museum. The views are fantastic.
Will you get to Perugia? If so -- by train or car? If by car, I understand the little red cars/funicular/streetcars (I forget what they call them) apparently operate from areas outside the antique center up top; we took the train and then took them up to the top of the hill/town. If you go there also there are escalators somewhat hidden but worth seeking out. Food also excellent in Perugia, and a wonderful passagiata. I second their remarkable museum. The views are fantastic.
