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Trip Report Walking through Oxford

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On my first day in Oxford (Saturday) I went to do a tour of the Oxford Castle, or at least the remains of the castle. An English friend of mine called me, but my signal got disrupted when I went down into the dungeons. After that I wandered through the streets of Oxford, past old stone walls and ancient buildings and then I found a park. After living in Dubai I noticed all the green and the fact that it was real so vividly. There was grass and a river and reeds and bushiness, against the river it was kind of forest-like and then the rest seemed to be just grass used for picnic or sport and there are walking trails and people jogging, just a really relaxed vibe. I walked up to a man “excuse me, sir, but could you tell me where I am?” “This is the University Park”.

I sat down for lunch with a Costa toastie (bacon, chicken & cheese) with my back against an old stone wall under some very big trees next to a really old college. Oh, yeah, btw this could be anywhere in Oxford, that’s what it looks like there. Went back to the guesthouse and found mum there, we went to Magdeline College where CS Lewis worked and wrote Narnia. At the College we did another walk, Anderson’s Walk.

(Sunday) Some of the Harry Potter movies have scenes that where shot in Oxford and I downloaded a Harry Potter walk, since I know the movies so well… The stairs that lead of the great hall where at Christ Church, I walked there and arrived just before 10am. Seeing as it was Sunday, church was starting at 10h and I could come back at 2pm, but the Evensong (Roman Catholic evening service) starts at 6pm. Now visitors who just want to look around have to pay, but you do not have to pay to pray…

Found my mum along the way and walked with her to do this 2hour walk next to the river. Very pretty and peaceful, with joggers and bicycles and people rowing on the river, a lot of dogs. We stopped for a snack and some breathe at a pub near the end of the walk. After that we walked up a hill to find St. Mary’s Church. Really pretty. From there we took a bus back to the City Centre.

We had lunch at the Eagle and Child. This is where Lewis and Tolkien also chilled and talked about the books they were writing. We just shared some nachos.

There was this walk I wanted to do about 5hours in total from start to finish including busses and like 10km. You take a bus from Oxford to a small town and from there you walk through the country side to another small town and then take the bus back to Oxford. I googled, I asked, I went to tourist information that afternoon, they just tried to sell me a map. I ended up not doing this tour in the end.

I went to the guest house got into bed for about 30min and then resumed walking. The next location on the Potter walk is New College. Walked all the way there (the walking parts where really nice and oh, so pretty). The where closed to visitors, because of construction, I asked for some direction to the Library (also used in the films). The guy gave me directions and then (luckily) mentioned that the library is also closed. The next location was a castle, which was outside of oxford. There goes my try to see where the movies where made.

I went to Evensong at Christ Church, it was just after 5pm when I got there and I sat down on a wall and happily waited for the time to pass. Just looking at the building, the gardens, everything. The church service was quite interesting, I wasn’t sure when to do what, when I should sit or stand or kneel. It was a male choir singing and a female priest with a soprano voice answering. The combo of the one almost shrill voice and the answering of the male choir wasn’t exactly what I would have picked out, but it was nice being there.

After church I was walking to the bus station and I started chatting with a really interesting man, D. We chatted for quite some time and then I excused myself and went to have dinner at a pub alone, didn’t want to get to familiar with a stranger. After dinner I found him again and since there was 15min before my bus would come we started talking again and I leaned against a wall. We carried on talking and then suddenly I realized that the wall I was standing against was white and I was wearing my black leather jacket, only it wasn’t entirely black anymore! My arm was white, my denim bag, my glove, the seam of my top and a part of my jean. I spun around to find a sign saying “Caution wet paint” and D goes “Oh, your f***ed, love” (British accent, please). I ran to the bus to get home and get water. Water ended up being exactly what I needed and my black jacket is again black, I got all of it off. Thank God!

Monday I went to do a CS Lewis walk, the pubs he chilled at, the hotel he stayed at on his first night, his church, lecture halls, etc. I also went to Merton College where JRR Tolkien studied. It was so interesting seeing all of it!

Let me just mention I’m really jet-lagged and tired as I’m writing this! Oh, it was St. Patrick’s Day. Anyway, during my Lewis walk I walked down Queen’s Lane – wow! It’s this cobble stone little road, with these really high walls on either side which are stone build and it is really quiet back there and old and beautiful. I just went and sat down and just enjoyed it.

After that I climbed a really old tower at the (get this name, so long) The University Church of St. Mary the Virgin. Spiral staircases are hard! I had heard that seeing Oxford from a height was really pretty and totally worth it, so I paid a few pounds and climbed all the stairs. It is pretty, yes, but I wouldn’t recommend it to everyone, although I am glad that I did it.

At the top of the tower my headache decided to kick-in and that made the stairs even worse to climb. Me and my headache went down the stairs and to the White Horse Pub (a Lewis pub). Since it was Patty’s day the barman poured my a pint of Guinness, since I had a headache he gave me a glass of water and since it was lunch time I ordered Fish & Chips. I hoped that one of the ingredients will make me all better, it didn’t. After I took a bus to the guesthouse went to bed for an hour and felt perfect when I re-entered the streets.

Mum was in Oxford for a conference at the university and so I went to find her. By the time I arrived at the college the teatime was over, but since I had said I was there to see my mum, I didn’t pay any entrance fee. So I just slipped out the back door and took a look around the college. Really old buildings surrounding a lawn with really big trees and pretty flowers. All the buildings seem to follow the same pattern or building style, but they’re also different. Don’t know how to explain it. Kind of like an Oak tree and a willow tree are similar and different at the same time. Anyway, it must be nice to study there between all that history. There where students laying on the grass and some playing Croquet. I’d only seen this in movies.

Since it was 3pm I went back to Merton College and walked through the grounds. I think living between all those old buildings had a definite influence on Tolkien’s writing. Oh, and the poet, TS Elliot, he also went to Merton.

I saw D again (all our encounters where in the street). “Mareeeta, ’ow you doing, sweat’eart?” I’m loving all the accents. I went to another church for evening prayer this time, no singing, it was nice. I had a burger for dinner.

On Tuesday I went to a university, wanted to get some information from them, ended up walking in complete circles. Couldn’t find the info person, but I did find the bus stop, so I just went back to the City Center.

I had heard that the Ashmolean was definitely worth seeing, but I hadn’t planned what I wanted to see, so I stumbled into quite a big art museum and didn’t know where to go. Still quite interesting. By the time I left there it was icy cold and raining, so I got on a bus and went to the guesthouse, added an extra layer of clothing and went to the store for lunch. Walked out all thickly dressed and the sun was shining, went into the store, bought a Yorkshire pasty (never had one before – quite yummy) and when I sat down to eat the cold was back. I was freezing, got into bed, defrosted and continued to walk.

I went to Exetor College that afternoon, this is where Tolkien worked after graduating from Merton college and I guess also after the war (not sure). I finally found Brasenose College, must have passed it 20 times and this time I notice the sign saying “Not open to the public”.

I went to the museum of Natural History, saw the last remains of the Dodo! Walked around and bumped into D again (I think he might be nice). I was on my way to church, I invited him to come with me, but he’s not exactly religious, so he declined. I liked that, instead of saying yes to something he let me know who he was and was honest about it… After church I got on a bus and met mum at a restaurant near our guesthouse. We had the burger special.

Now, for about a year I’ve had a penpal friend, R, we write each other from time to time, I’ve seen pictures of him, but I hadn’t met him. He lives near Oxford and so I met him on Wednesday evening. We went for a drink at the Eagle and Child. If it’s good enough for Lewis & Tolkien I guess it’s good enough for me. Was interesting.

Wednesday morning I went to do a walking tour along the river again, but a slightly different rout than the previous time. There’s a meadow which apparently contains cattle, but I didn’t see them. It’s like a little piece of country in the city.

After that I wanted to go the Blenheim palace, but after figuring out that the train ticket cost about half of the money I had for the day I decided not to go. I passed D on the street but he didn’t notice me. I took a bus back to the guesthouse and at one of the stops I impulsively decided to get off. Every morning on my way to the city centre I noticed a few little boards saying “Saint xxx Church”. Most of the old churches are works of art inside. I ended up walking to 3 locked churches.

After a lot of walking I went back to the guesthouse around 12pm, took a shower and a nap. Dressed all nice and went back to walking. R was arriving at 6pm, so I skipped church and went to the pub. After R left I walked through the streets and started talking to a rap singer, we talked really long. He was interesting, he walked me to the bus stop and then it was home and bed. All that walking made me tired.

Thursday morning we went to see CS Lewis’s home. Unfortunately none of the interior was original anymore, all the original furniture and stuff was sold at an auction. But they did restore it according to pictures to look like it did when Lewis was living there. After that we took a bus back to the city centre and went for some fish and chips at a nice restaurant with a good deal. I ate everything on my plate. Those chunky chips are yummy! After lunch I walked with mum to Merton College, but they were closed. The walk was still pretty though. And then to Exeton College. We accidentally went into Lincoln College and then I realised that the next wooden door in the old stone wall was the correct one. After that we split and I saw D again. He’s pretty interesting and quite good company. I took a pic of us together. He was part of my Oxford experience, so I don’t just want to forget him.

Mum decided to stay in for the rest of the afternoon. I went out and was lucky that it was Thursday when I arrived at Christ Church the sign said that they have an Evensong service on Thursdays as well. It was raining very softly when I went in and I took of my rain jacket tucked it in under my seat and enjoyed the service. The singing part is really beautiful. An hour later when I came out it was still raining softly, but now everything was wet and it was dark. The lights glistened and I made my way to the bus stop. Mum had text me to get some dinner and I found a nice authentic Italian place near our guest house. My rain jacket’s hood was enough for me and I opened my umbrella to protect the pizza!

Friday I had no plans, I went back and did the short river walk again. Strolled down Queen’s Lane and sat down a last time. I walked back to Merton College just because it’s beautiful. I was hoping to see D again, but I didn’t. I went back to Christ Church to take some pictures. Met a really friendly artist, J, he was busy drawing people on the street, but lost interest in drawing me when I said I didn’t have any extra money. I went to the Eagle and Child a last time for some Fish and Chips. I walked down Logic lane. I just redid a lot of little stuff that I had enjoyed during the week I was there. The rain came and went and just after 15pm I was back at the guesthouse waiting for the taxi to the bus. The bus took us to Heathrow and then Oxford turned into a memory.

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