Vienna Trip Report

HOTEL KAISERIN ELISABETH (http://www.kaiserinelisabeth.at/) -

This hotel was an easy walk from the Stephanplatz U-Bahn station (even though I went the wrong way when I left the station). The hotel is on a quiet street off the main shopping drag the Karntnerstrasse. I reserved a single room and requested a room with air conditioning when I reserved. I emailed the hotel directly with the reservation and at that time I request their "best promotional rate". The hotel gave me a single room for €105 which usually sells for €115. On arrival they attempted to give me a room without a/c but switched me to an a/c room on my request. I have posted my comments about this hotel in another thread but I will repeat it here;

I really enjoyed my stay in the hotel and would highly recommend it to anyone who may travel to Vienna. The front desk staff was very helpful and was always willing to assist with everything from laundry to directions to tours. I appreciated that they were extremely friendly and hospitable.

The staff in the breakfast room was also a pleasure. Each morning they greet you with a smile which is a good way to start the day. The breakfast was delicious and I think the variety of treats was outstanding. You can select from a buffet of breads, pastry, fruit, juices, meats, cheeses, yogurt, cereal, eggs, etc. Very nice.

Although I never saw the chamber maid, each day when I return to the room it was spotless clean and fresh.

The best part of the hotel was the rooms. Although I only had a single room I think the size was large and the bathrooms sparkling clean and very modern. The room I had had a tub shower combo. It also had a bidet, what the hell do I do with this? The beds were comfortable and included down comforters and pillows. The furniture beautiful and well kept. The furniture also included a nice sitting chair, table and desk. The floors were wood covered with oriental rugs. Windows are double paned to keep out street noise. The entry to the room was also through a double set of door and kept out the hall noise.

I really loved staying at the hotel. I think it was a great value and the location was perfect because it was right in the center of Vienna. A great choice for a real feeling of Vienna. I am glad I didn't stay at the Marriott! I was very sorry to depart.

LOCATION IS EVERYTHING

While in Vienna I strongly recommend staying in a hotel as close to the Stephansdom as possible. This is the center of the city and hub of day and evening activity. You will find yourself strolling and people watching here many times through the day and evening. Many of the big fancy hotels like the SAS Palace, Marriott and Intercontinental are located ON the ring which means they are not IN the center. Although they are in good neighborhoods, they will not offer the activity of the Karntnerstrasse, Graben or Stephansplatz.

COFFEE HOUSES

I visited a number of coffee houses in Vienna and found myself unimpressed. I am not sure if it was because they we often hot inside, too expensive or if it was the stingy small sized coffee they offered. I tried Julius Meinl, Cafe Sacher (most disappointing), Demel and Cafe Landtmann. The best part of these coffee houses was how they served you coffee on a silver tray with a glass of water. The worst part was the price. A coffee with a piece of cake or pastry would run about €6.50 (that's about $7.75). Expect a espresso with milk to cost about €2.80-3.00 and a piece of cake €3.70-4.00. The best and most luxurious cake was at Demel. I had a Nusstorte which was fresh and delicious. At Demel you select your cake from the extensive selection in the front of the shop and a waitress will give you a slip of paper with the name on it. At your table another waitress will take the slip and your coffee order. Be sure to do your homework on the different types of coffee before you depart. Here is a sight with all the different varieties http://www.famoushotels.org/famoushotels/ARCHIVES/COFFEE_HISTORY/coffeehtm/coffee_a-z.htm. I know everyone is going to hate me for this but Starbucks has reached vienna and for about the same amount as one of those tiny cups you can get a nice big strong cup of Starbucks Coffee. There is one across from the Sacher Hotel (ain't that a slap) near the Opera on the Karntnerstrasse.

RESTAURANTS

I wasn't as impressed with the food in Vienna as I thought I would be. By the end of the trip I was so sick of Weinerschnitzel I thought I would puke. Prices seemed reasonable and there is everything from McDonalds and Subway to the fanciest of restaurants. Basically there is something for everyone and every price range. Here is where I ate;

Figlmueller, Baeckerstrasse 6 - Although this is a fairly new restaurant it seemed very old world. Figlmueller is famous for making a Weinerschnitzel as big as your plate, actually it was even bigger. The restaurant is very nice and informal inside with no air conditioning so it can get quite hot. I went here twice and one time I sat in the basement room and the second time I sat on the window facing the street. Both seats were great but the basement was hot. The waiter are very polite and formal. Service is excellent. The schnitzel ( €11.50 ) was huge. It was pounded thin, breaded and perfectly cooked. The restaurant recommends a side salad where you can mix 2 salads for €3.50 . I got the Arugula with Potato Salad. They were drizzled with pumpkin seed oil, a Viennese specialty. Delicious! Remember the schnitzel is huge and you will need an appetite to finish the whole thing. At this place the house wines are dirt cheap at less than € a glass. The restaurant has a second location around the corner. See pics and info on their web-sight. http://www.figlmueller.at . Total bill €18.60 for schnitzel, salad and wine. English menu available. I give this restaurant 3*.

Gulaschmuseum, Schulerstrasse 20 - This is a fun place where they serve nothing but Goulash. Goulash varieties come with beef, pork, fish, liver and sausages. All very interesting and a goulash pilgrimage. Decent food but not "gourmet". After all, its goulash! Entrees range from €6-10.00, €2 for beer and €1.60 for soda or water. I had the traditional Hungarian Goulash and it tasted as good as goulash could. Service is impersonal and portions are large enough. The restaurant will serve you a basket of bread and charge you for it (common practice). Total bill €10.30 for goulash, bread and a beer. English menu available. I give this restaurant 2*.

Zum Weissen Rauchfangkehrer, Weihburggasse 4 - (http://www.weisser-rauchfangkehrer.at) This restaurant looked nice and was right across from my hotel so I thought I would try it. It was by far the most impressive and interesting restaurant I ate at. It was also the most expensive. The waiters and bus boys are extremely polite and speak good English. The service here is outstanding and they seem to cater to your every whim including ice and cold water which is unheard of in Vienna! The restaurant was air conditioned and very attractive on the inside. It is all done in honey wood tones and plaid fabrics. Somewhat giving a casual country feeling. There are many whimsical touches which will keep your eyes busy for hours. This restaurant seems to specialize in pumpkin seeds. Every dish I had either had pumpkin seeds or pumpkin seed oil. My appetizer was an arugula salad with a few different types of carpaccio (€6.00). This was a treat and very delicious. Perfectly prepared. My entree was Tafelspitz at €20.00 . Although good, I think I should have ordered another house specialty, after all what else can you do with "boiled beef"? I also ordered a bottle of water (at €9.00 !!!) and a glass of wine @ €7.50 . The wine list here is all Austrian and spectacular. Your waiter will be very knowledgeable and happy to help you select a great Austrian wine to suit your meal. When I had trouble deciding, he gave me a taste of two different wines. Realizing my bill would be high I skipped dessert and coffee. My total bill with tip was €63.50 for 1 person. This sounds like a lot and you are right but... The restaurant also threw in a few extras. At the beginning of the meal they gave a basket full of really delicious homemade breads with a selection of flavoured spreads along with a small cup of roast salted pumpkin seeds. In between each course they gave a little appetizer or treat. At the end of the meal they delivered a small dish of sugared pumpkin seeds and a small tray of sweets. If that wasn't enough, when all was done they cam by with a tray with a gift selection which either included small jars of jams, schnapps, pumpkin seed oil or a small bag of pumpkin seed. A lovely end to a perfect meal. A real Vienna treat. English menu available. Warning : the restaurant will add a €6 service charge to your bill. I guess it covers the bread and freebies. I give this restaurant 4*.

Cantinetta Antinori, Jasomirgottstrasse 3 - This Italian Restaurant is a very short walk from the Stephansdom Catherdral. This restaurant is owned by the Marchese Antinori, the famous winemaker (http://www.antinori.it). I had wanted to eat at their restaurant in Florence, Italy but never had the chance so I was destined to eat at their Vienna outpost. The food is Tuscan and the restaurant is quite large. The atmosphere is cozy and nicely lighted with interesting overhead chandeliers mixed with modern wall sconces. Furnishings are maple colored with crisp white cloths on the tables. The restaurant has air conditioning. I ate there in the middle of the evening on a Friday night and the place is near empty. I can't imagine why. My starter was a arugula salad topped with long shaved slivers of parmesan cheese. It was dressed with balsamic and olive oil. Very generous size and delicious for €7.00. For my main course I have a house made ravioli filled with sheeps milk cheese and finished with a pesto sauce. This was very good and tasted just like old Firenze! The ravioli could have had a bit more filling. The pasta dishes can either be orders as a small second course (€12.50) or a larger portioned main course (€15). I had this as a main course. With my meal I had a simple Villa Antinori Chianti @ €5.00 plus a small bottle of San Pelligrino @ €2.20. The restaurant also added a €2.20 "coperto" which is a cover charge. I assume this "covered" the basket of bread which came with the meal. I skipped dessert and coffee to keep the bill reasonable and decided to look for one of Vienna famous "eisse" cafes for Italian style gelato. Total bill €31.40 (without tip). English menu available. I give this restaurant 3*.

Oswald & Kalb, Baeckerstrasse 14 - This was another fine restaurant that was recommended to me by a couple I spoke to at Zum Weissen Rauchfangkehrer a few night earlier. The interior had vaulted ceilings and was painted crisp white. Furnishing and floor were dark wood with white table cloths. The rooms were intimate and candle lighted. The restaurant has no air conditioning. The menu is creative gourmet Austrian and has a good balance of fish, pork and beef dishes including the dreaded weinerschnitzel and tafelspitz. The menu is hand written and entirely in German but to my surprise my waiter proceeded to read the entire menu to me. That was very nice. For a starter I has a goose liver pate which came with some small round toasts and delicious apricot chutney. The pate was so creamy and delicious. It was like eating heaven. This was an expensive starter (€13.50) but I love it so much. The slices of pate were very generous and tasted so nice with the spicy-sweet chutney. For my main course I selected a roulade of beef stuffed with bacon, herbs and vegetables. This came with a side of mashed potatoes infused with what seemed to be leek. The roulade was served is a oniony beef flavoured sauce that was real tasty. The restaurant has an excellent wine list and I selected an Austrian red for €3.60 a glass. I thought the wine prices were very reasonable. As tradition goes, a €1.10 charge for "brot" (bread) was added to my bill. My total here was €33.10 (without tip) which I though was a great value considering the quality of the food, great service and nice atmosphere. I give this restaurant 4*.

Cafe Am Ring, Parkring 20 (corner of Johannesgasse and Parkring) - Although I would seek this cafe unless you are in the area, I thought it was a nice place for a light lunch, snack or coffee. Located in the vicinity of the SAS Palace, Marroitt, Intercontinental hotel and Stadtpark its a good choice since there doesn't seem to be many decent restaurants in this area. I found this place when wandering away from the Belvedere palace and pricey restaurant like the Imperial Cafe which is nearby. This is a Segafredo cafe so you can be assured of a good cup of coffee and great desserts. The atmosphere is bright and modern and it has a large outdoor terrace for people watching on the Parkring. Service is fast but not very personable. I never felt rushed or pressured to vacate my seat so this can be a good place to stop and write postcards or your memoirs. Since this is a Segafredo cafe food here has an Italian flair which includes pastas (€7-8.00), salads (€7-8.00) and sandwiches (€4-5.00). I ordered an Italian salad (€7.90) which was large and studded with chopped Italian ham, cheese, peppers and tomatoes amongst mixed leafy greens. This came with a side of bread but beware! I asked for some butter and €.90 was added to my bill. In comparison the bottle of Pepsi I ordered was €2.50 which seemed high. For dessert the selections are wide including tarts, tortes and cakes. I ordered a simple mixed berry tart (€2.80) with a good cafe melange (€2.60). The tart came with whipped cream and the portion was large enough to satisfy and finish the meal. Total bill €16.90. No English menu and limited English spoken. I give this restaurant 3* for good food and good value.

OVERALL RESTAURANT IMPRESSIONS

Service in most restaurants is very good and friendly. Most places have an English menu and waiters that speak decent English.

Don't assume that the restaurant has air conditioning.

If you get extras such as bread, expect a cover or "brot" charge to be added to the bill. Simple things like bottled water, soda and coffee can be expensive and run up the bill. Tap water is decent and can be ordered but you will be looked at like you have two heads when you order it. Don't expect free refills on soda or coffee. You will have to beg for ice in a drink.

I never figured out what to tip. Sometimes it was included sometimes it was a mystery. I think that as an American you may be expected to leave a nice tip even though the locals do not.

Most places are pretty casual. Jeans and nice tops will be fine for evening dining unless it is a fancy restaurant. Avoid shorts and tees in the evening.

Smoking is allowed in all restaurants and most do not seem to offer non smoking areas. People will huff and puff throughout the meal. In the summertime this is not so bad since most places open their doors and windows to the street. Air conditioned places have better circulation to vent out smoke.

There are many fast food places in Vienna for a cheap meal. Of course there is McDonalds but if you like seafood the chain Nordsee is all over the city. Nordsee offers an extravagant level of fish and seafood which ranges from sandwiches to salads (http://www.nordsee.at).

For a real treat try the restaurant Buffet Trzesniewski at Dorotheergasse 1 (off the Graben). This place offers delicious open face finger sandwiches at about €.80 each. Sandwiches come in combinations of egg with peppers, salmon, bacon, cheese, mushroom, herring, etc. There are usually 18 varieties and people buy them by the plateful. They do have a English translation menu if you need it but to order you can simply just point to what you want.

Eat a good breakfast in your hotel. After all it probably included in the price of the room.

WATER AND SODA

The entire time I was in Vienna it seemed like I was searching for water or soda. It just did not come easy. Perhaps because the prices on the street or in a cafe were so high. On the street a bottle of Coke or water was about €1.20. In a cafe or restaurant the same Coke or Water was €2.20-2.60. One restaurant charged me €8.00 for a bottle of sparkling. I always like to keep a big 1 liter bottle of water in my hotel room. This was about €2.60 if you buy it on the street.

There are two ways around this.

First, find a supermarket in the city and get it there. A 1 liter bottle of water was about €1.50. The prices for Coke and other drinks was also low, as was misc. treats like cookies, candy and snacks. The market is also a good place to get a few good food souvenirs like jams, candy, cookies and other fine stuff.

Second, I just bought a small bottle of water and when I was done I filled it with tap water. Vienna water is perfectly good and tasty.

I have to say the Austrian brand bottled waters are not very good. They have mineral and flat undertones. I usually look for the French Volvic water which I think tastes great.

Another thing... On the Karntnerstrasse in about three locations there are these mysterious fountain-like spigots which constantly pour a stream of water. They look sort of like a birdbath. Well, all day long I see people at these "people fountains" drinking, splashing each other, filling up bottles, washing faces, washing hands, water their dogs, etc. For a city so obsessed with bottled water I am shocked to see someone bend over and drink from one of these.

While in a restaurant if you dare to order tap water don't expect a boy to come around with a ice filled pitcher of refills. You will have to beg for more, "Please sir...". In addition, if you order a Coke or other soft drink it will probably come in a bottle and be lukewarm. Refills are not free and you will be charged. Same goes for coffee. No bottomless cups here. Wow! When I go to a restaurant in the states I can drink 5 or 6 ice teas or cokes along with 2 or 3 glasses of water. Lets see, in Austria that could cost me €15.60! Surprisingly in Vienna wine is very reasonable and much cheaper (about $3.00 less) than a glass of wine in the USA.

ICE CREAM

The Viennese are nuts about Ice Cream. There are Italian style gelato or "eisse" stands all over the city. The flavours are tempting and delicious. I really thought the quality at most of them was terrific. One that particularly stand out is called Eissalon Tuchlauben which is located at Tuchlaubenstrasse and Klebattsgasse. It is obvious by the endless line that this eisse cafe has the smoothest and tastiest gelato in the city. They also have the best selection. A few scoops will set you back €2.20-2.60. For a super-indulgent treat sit at their sidewalk cafe and have a sundae dripping with syrups and cream. One web-sight says, "make sure you stop here for the most unbelievably delicious ice cream in Central Europe "

SUPERMARKETS

Markets are you best bet for fun food souvenirs (at great prices) water, soda, room snacks and picnic preparations. There are two or three markets in Vienna which are within the ring. Prices are decent and selection is great. The markets I found are;

Spar Gourmet (http://www.spar.at) - Located at the corner of Karntnerstrasse and Karntner Ring near the Opera. This is a bit of an upscale market which carries the essentials plus a lot of gourmet treats. A good place to buy jams, chocolates, coffees and other Austrian treats. Great for picnic foods.

Billa (http://www.billa.at) - Located on Singerstrasse off Karntnerstrasse near the Stephansdom. I suppose this is the big grocery leader in the Vienna area. Although the markets don't seem to have a lot of "gourmet" foods, they do carry Austrian specialties and basics. This is a good place to get soda, water and other snacks. They also have a good bakery, meats and cheeses for picnics or a quiet meal in your hotel room.

Julius Meinl (http://www.meinl.com) - This is the top of the line gourmet market located at the end of the Graben at Kohlmarket. I guess it would compare to Fortnum and Mason, Harrod's Food Halls or perhaps Fauchon. It is a beautiful shop which caries everything from sliced meat to bottled water all displayed in an elegant fashion. Prices are a bit steep and I think you could probably save money by getting some of the stuff you see here at Billa or Spar. Julius Meinl is famous for its coffee, tea and jams in the Austrian tradition. Julius Meinl also operates a cafe at this location.

VENDING MACHINES

So its midnight and you need a coke or perhaps a tube of toothpaste... What to do? Check out the 24 hour convenience store vending machine in the Karlsplatz U-Bahn Station. Truely amazing. This machine displays a wide array of good behind a glass wall and when you enter the number and money into the machine the automated selector moves across the front side and picks the item you have selected. Welcome to the 21st century.

In a simpler fashion there are standard economical vending machines in many of the U-Bahn stations.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS

During this trip I became very tired and overwhelmed from all the walking, museums and sights. Since I was in Vienna for 7 days I wanted to take one of those day trips up the Danube to Melk. My original plan was to take the train to Krems then the ferry/cruise line to Melk, as recommended in my guidebooks. Instead of planning this and trying to figure out how to get there I decided to hook up with a tour from Vienna Sightseeing. My hotel made arrangements for me. The trip cost €60 and provided bus service to Spitz with connecting ferry to Melk and a coach bus back to Vienna. The brochure suggested going through towns like, Krems and Durnstein.

The shuttle bus picked me up in the morning at my hotel and shuttled me to the main bus terminal. From there we boarded the bus and went onward to Spitz where we were to meet the ferry. Along the way the bus drove along the Danube and through little towns, villages and vineyards, but it did not stop. When we arrived in Spitz we got tickets for the ferry and were directed to the dock to board. No time to see the village, no time to get a drink, no time for a snack. At this point we boarded the ferry and was informed that our two hour cruise would take us through the most scenic part of the Danube valley. Wait. Two hour cruise? Damn! It's 90 degrees outside. I had no food, no water, no sunglasses, cap or sunscreen. Never fear, the boat is like a floating cafe. It offers everything from Schnitzel to Ice Cream.

In my notes I wrote, "On a warm day this can be a two hour trip to hell". Seating on the boat is in one of three areas, the lower cabin, the outdoor deck and the outdoor deck covered with a canopy. Whichever location you choose, it was hot as hell and there was no escape from the heat. Since it was 90 degrees outside there was no cool river breeze and no relief. The boat has no air conditioning. This was truely the trip from hell.

Once we got to Melk we were released for one hour for lunch and then we met up at the abbey for a personally guided tour. The tour was very nice and the cathedral was stunning. The air conditioned bus ride back was truely relaxing.

My opinion of the day was not very good. The tour did not show me all the villages I thought I'd see. I would have been much happier to plan myself a self guided tour where I could explore the little towns and villages. Perhaps a car would have been best. Although the two hours on the boat took us through some relaxing scenery, the time on the boat was painful. The $60 ticket was expensive since I could have taken the train and ferry cheaper if I arranged it myself. I guess if you had 2 or 3 people a car would be less expensive. In summary I took an 8 hour trip to see a beautiful cathedral in a far off village. Yes, it was beautiful but I also saw many beautiful cathedrals in Vienna.

For guided tours the web-sight for Vienna Sightseeing is http://www.viennasightseeingtours.com/enter2.htm

For self guided the web-sight for the cruise line DDSG (Blue Danube) is http://www.ddsg-blue-danube.at

SMOKING

Austria is not a non smoking country. You are greeted with smoke in the airport and slapped with it in public areas throughout the city. As previously mentioned, people smoke in restaurants. Sometimes it seems like they have a ciggy between ever course. In ventilated restaurants it's not that bad. If you travel in the warm months, many places are open to the street or have sidewalk seating. You can't avoid it so get use to it!

CREDIT CARDS

Most every mainstream establishment takes credit card. I was only turned away a few times when I tried to charge a small purchase or they just didn't take cards. Even if a place does take a card, sometimes they will make a face if it is a small purchase. I prefer using my card as much as possible since I get a better exchange rate than cash. Most credit cards will add 2-4% onto a charge for international transactions. This amount is very small considering you are getting the market rate on the currency conversion.

Important Notes - Banks have new security procedures in place that recognize a transaction made on a credit card in a far away location in which you do not normally shop. Should they suspect you activity as illegal, then charges will be rejected. Most credit card companies now recommend that you call them to report when and where you will be traveling to.

ATM

I still believe that using ATM's to get cash is the best conversion. On this trip I didn't even get Euros before I left the USA and depended on the ATM's at the airport. A bit risky, but it worked. I figured that if it didn't I could always get cash at a bank or exchange place with my credit card. Once again, check with you bank to see what they charge for foreign transactions. My ban charges only $1.50 for this. From what I could see, no ATM I used charged me for using a foreign card so I didn't get screwed on "double dipping". Note - as a rule I never withdraw more than I can afford to lose. Although I do take enough money so the fees involved don't effect my conversion rate.

CROSSING THE STREET

As a New Yorker I am a avid jaywalker. I see no reason to stand at a corner and wait for a signal to cross. I walk through the middle of the street rather than at the corner and dash across whenever i can. Hey I got things to do! In Vienna I noticed that most people wait patiently to cross the street when the signal tell them to. OK, a few people make the dash but most wait. On night at about 11pm I came upon a corner on a deserted street which had a "don't walk" sign flashing. I crossed but another man simple stood there until the little sign directed him to "walk". I think he could have been the last man on earth with every car eliminated and he would have still stood there. Oh, the power of the red blinking hand!

LAUNDRY AND IRONING

Forget doing a load of laundry in Vienna. My hotel informs me that their were simply no laundromats in Vienna. I never even saw one. I did see a few dry cleaners and laundry places who will do it for you. My hotel also offered to do my laundry for me or send my stuff to the dry cleaner. Of course, this was at a price. I found a local dry cleaner and had a few pieces cleaned at very steep prices. I think it cost me €18.00 to dry clean two pairs of pants and launder one shirt. Since they didn't speak English, I had my hotel write what I wanted on a piece of paper. Also, forget "one day" service, most like to have two days to complete.

For the first time I decided to wash socks, underwear and simple tee shirts in the hotel sink. It worked out fine.

For your information, it is against the law in Vienna (maybe Austria) to iron in a hotel room. Really! Your hotel will not have an iron or provide one. They will be happy to get your clothing pressed for you. Hey, nothing says you can't get away with using one of those travel steamers or a small travel iron. Just hide it while you are out. Imagine going to jail for ironing a shirt. I did notice that many of the shops in the ring seemed to sell travel irons, I suppose there is some illegal activity going on here! A 220v travel iron is a good investment if you travel in Europe a lot.

SIGHTSEEING

There are more things to se and do in Vienna than you can imagine. There are churches, shops, parks, museums, monuments, palaces, historical buildings, etc. Plan your trip accordingly. I found that by day 4 of my trip I had seen my share of major sights but still did not see everything. Most all of the big sights charge steep admission fees. These can range from €3.00 to 10.00. If you went to see all the sight over a long trip you would have spent a lot of money. Hit the "must see" sights and museums first then add on as you go depending on your budget.

Another option is to get the Vienna card which give unlimited rides on the U-Bahn and discount at major attractions for €16.90. I simply do not see how this card can be worth the fee. You would have to ride the U-Bahn a lot (see U-Bahn info) and go to more sights than you could stand to see to make up for the price of the card. Remember this is only valid for three days! More info at http://info.wien.at/welcome.html

FAVORITE SIGHTS

There is a lot to see in Vienna here is my personal lists (note, I am not a fan of museums and love to shop);

My favorite sights -

1. The Hofburg and Kaiserappartements and Silberkammer. View the Imperial apartments and collections of tableware, silver and household goods. Admission €7.50

2. Schonbrunn Palace

3. Stephansdom

4. Karlskirche

5. Neues Rathaus

My favorite activities -

1. Strolling the Karntnerstrasse and Graben

2. Walking the "ring"

3. Shopping at the SCS (Shopping City Sud). said to be Europe's biggest Mall.

Most Disappointing -

1. The overrated Naschmarket. Just a big outdoor market.

2. Overpriced Coffeehouses

3. Long day trips

4. Baden bei Wein. Easy to get to but not much to see.

5. Transit Strikes. There was a one day labour strike while I was there.

U-BAHN

Vienna has a comprehensive routes of U-Bahn and street car lines. There are many different offering which range from single trip to multi-day tickets. Unless you really hate walking, I recommend only getting tickets as you go. I rarely used the system because the weather was nice and the trains are hot and not air conditioned. Tickets machines have an option to help you in English. When boarding a tram, bus or entering the U-Bahn, be sure to validate your ticket in the little blue stamping machine.

SHOPPING

Vienna has all the shopping an addict can desire. Although prices can be high there is always some bargains. There are good inexpensive fashion stores like Zara and H&M. For those not familiar with Zara (http://www.zara.com), I would think of them like Europe's equivalent to Banana Republic, but a bit cheaper. For those who live in New York City and are familiar with Zara you will be shocked at the low prices. Zara is a Euro-trendy fashion chain based in Spain. Most of the shops in the ring are on the pedestrian Karntnerstrasse and Graben.

Another area for shopping in Vienna is along the Mariahilferstrasse. On this street you will find more shops and better prices than stores within the ring. There are also places for coffee, snacks and lunch. I thought this street was good, but not great. There is also a branch of the German department store Peek & Cloppenburg where good fashion and values can be found.

On a day trip to Baden I found a big mall called the SCS, Shopping City Sud. For a simple train ride on the Badner-Bahn you can shop all day at trendy fashion stores as well as department stores and boutiques. Unlike shops within the Vienna ring, there are lots of sales and bargains to be found here. They styles and trends here are updated and fashionable. If you like to shop it's well worth the trip. In the mall there are numerous department stores (Peek & Cloppenburg) and places like Ikea and Toys R Us in the vicinity. You can easily combine this with a day trip to Baden bei Wein. To get there take the Badner-Bahn. I am not sure of the station stop, but your hotel can probably tell you.

As mentioned earlier, Duty Free shopping in Vienna Airport is horrible. Don't count on any values on departure.

INTERNET

Want to send or receive e-mail? There is a branch of Bignet Internet Cafe located on the Karntnerstrasse at the Ringstrasse. They are open until midnight and offer reasonable rates. http://www.bignet,at

BOOK & MAPS

I bought three guidebooks to assist me with my travels in Vienna. Frommers Vienna and the Danube Valley, Timeout Vienna and Eyewitness Vienna. The most used was the Frommers book since it had the best descriptions and restaurant listings. Eyewitness was good for history and neighborhood orientation and the Timeout guide stayed in my room and I barely used it. I got great deal for all of my books on http://www.half.com .

For a map I bought a folded laminated Streetwise Vienna map. This was perfect. http://www.streetwisemaps.com

Thats all the info I can think of for now. As soon as I get my NEW web-sight up I will post this trip report with photos. Until then my web-sight is temporarily located at http://homepage.mac.com/richardab

ttt

Hi, Richard. I've never been tempted by Vienna, but I have to say that your trip report has been most enjoyable. I have thought about Durnstein and the other little towns along the Danube.

Again it seems as if the heat was a factor. Do you think June will ever again be a cool travel month in Europe? When I read the highs in my beloved Switzerland, I shudder.

Thanks again for a most interesting and informative report. J.

It was very hot in Vienna and I am sure it is not always like that. Quite the reverse here in NYC where it has been only rain and cold. We only just got our first two warm days today and yesterday (June22!)

Thanks for the interesting report, richard. Sorry to hear that you had to suffer through such stifling heat - that's quite a contrast with my experience in March 200 when I woke up to snow my first morning in Vienna!

I agree completely about staying as close to St. Stephansdom as possible. I did that and couldn't think of a better area to be in that was close to everything. Vienna is a very walkable city - the only time I took the subway was to and from the airport. It was great walking off all those delicious pastries! Would you believe, I never had either Wienerschnitzel or Sacher torte? Instead I had some sort of delicious pork dish with cabbage at the Augustiner Keller which was served with a tankard of delightful white wine. Sorry that the cafes were disappointing to you. I found Demels to be very nice. Wish I had visited more of the cafes, especially Hawelka which was nearby.

Being more of a museum person, I also visited the Kunsthistorische Museum on the Ring and some composer museums. Figaro House where Mozart lived was especially interesting.

As for jaywalking and such I strongly believe in following the old adage "When in Rome ... etc." just out of respect for local laws and customs and traffic patterns, but that's me. While on vacation, I'm rarely in that much hurry anyway!

So you, a New Yorker, found admission fees to the major attractions steep? That is a bit surprising to me when I consider how expensive NYC attractions can be. Again, all IMHO.

All in all, it does seem you had a good time there and enjoyed a lot of good food as well. I'll have to check out those Wienerschnitzels next time. Hope that will be soon!

Richard, have you ever been to Europe before? You seemed so surprised that the prices are high. This is nothing new for most of Europe, especially the large cities. Soft drinks and water are always expensive. Usually the local beers and wines much less so. You also have to understand that taxes are very high in most European countries due to the socialistic nature of their society. Property is also very expensive. All of this has to be passed on to the consumer whether it is a local or a tourist.

I lived in Vienna for 2 years in the early '80's. I still find it to be one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, though it is much more crowded now. On the whole, I find the food and wine to be excellent and the people reserved but polite and helpful.

What many people do not realize is that the majority of the "Old Town" is relatively new by European standards. Many of the sights on the Ringstrasse were built in the last half of the 1800's during Franz Josef's reign. However, Vienna has some of the most beautiful builidings in Europe and the museums are outstanding.

As for the heat, a lot of Vienna is not air conditioned because it usually isn't that hot in the summer. But the weather is unpredictable so it can be very hot for short periods of time and then be quite pleasant or even cold.

Thanks for a terrific trip report! I loved it. It is a shame you were not able to see the towns along the Danube. We stayed 2 nights in Durnstein, traveled up and down between Krems & Melk and thought we had walked into storybook Europe.

While in Vienna, we too immensely enjoyed our dinner at Zum Weissen Rauchgangkehrer. It was my husband's birthday. I made a comment to the woman seating us ( perhaps the owner?) and after that huge, marvelous dinner they dimmed the lights in the restaurant and came strolling out with a whole sacher-torte-look-alike cake (with what I would have sworn was a lighted roman candle on top) while the pianist played Happy Birthday. I commented on the torte being a Sacher Torte and our waiter looked aghast and assured me it was NOT a Sacher Torte - this was homemade at the restaurant and NOT nearly so DRY! We just loved that place!

Betty, Yes I travel to Europe once or twice a year. I think that Vienna is not as cheap as other cities. I guess the 30% tax doesn't help. I was in London the week before Vienna and there was a big difference between US$.75 for a Coke and US$1.50, especially when it is hot. The fact that the dollar is worth 20% less then my last trip didn't help either. Imagine if everything you are use to buying suddenly went up 20%. Believe me, I live in NYC so I know what expensive is.

Rebecka, Yes I live in NYC but since I have lived here for many years I don't go to many of the sights and museums anymore. If i do it is only a few times a yesr. When you are in a foreign city and trying to see so much the admission fees can add up.

I didn't think Vienna was expensive, but it wasn't cheap either. When I am on vacation I like to shop and eat but I still have to watch how much I spend because you can get into a real frenzy if you aren't careful! I am still paying off a vacation to Paris from a year ago!

Richardab - glad you generally enjoyed your trip to Vienna. I am sorry, however, that you did not make it out to Grinzing (or maybe you did, but didn't find it worth commenting on). My wife and I head out to Grinzing after a few hectic days in the city. We do enjoy the "cool" evenings outside at small Heurigen (winestuben), sipping tart Austrian wines, listening to Viennese music- and yes - enjoying some Schnitzel (just seems right). Welcome Home!

Thank you for posting your trip report. It was very nice of you to take the time to do so. I am reading it wishing I was there again....
Welcome home...

Richard, that was a superb trip report, perhaps the most in-depth I've ever seen on this forum. I went to Vienna last year and agree with pretty much all you said. Its not Paris, but very nice in its own way. I also found a supermarket real quick and stocked up on the water, colas and snacks. You had me laughing about the greasy Weinerschnitze and tiny cups of coffee. I also gave up and went to Starbucks!

Thanks for an excellent report. One of the reasons Vienna continues to be one of Europe's most expensive cities can be laid at the feet of former United Nations Secretary, Kurt Waldheim. Remember him? The guy with the wolf-like face and his hidden Nazi past.

Anyway, while he was in office, he coaxed the UN to set up its European headquarters on an island in the Danube, next to Vienna. Only in order to score points with the UN, he worked it so that the big HQ complex was free of tax -- including the buildings, the land, and the employees. Everybody freeloading, thanks to Uncle Kurt, and all paid for by the Viennese. No wonder he left in disgrace.

Ok the Weinerschnitzel wasn't that bad but it seemd to be on every menu. I call it the "hamburger of Wein"!

I am at work and hungry right now and could go for a Figlmuellers!

Charlie, OH! I forgot I did go to Grinzing one warm evening. I sat outside at one of those silly Beisl's and listened to people sing and play the accordian. This was just so campy! The food was decent and mugs of wine wine were great!

Forgot to mention that those small cups of coffee can be traced back to the Turks who invaded Austria years ago. They left behind their very strong coffee which could only be consumed in small amounts, much like the chickory coffee is in Louisiana. Everything in Europe is based on tradition and/or custom. Guess that's one of the things that make it so interesting to Americans. If everything was like it is in the US, then why bother to go?

Richard, Your report came at a perfect time since we will be going to Vienna next week. We will definately use your suggestions. Good idea to go to the supermarkets. With 3 kids we will need alot of snacks.

RE: bettyk's comments on the small cups of coffee.

I see your point, but .... Vienna is a great place and would be even better if they served a larger cup of coffee, and, lord forbid, gave you a refill! I'm going back some day, but not for the expensive and tiny cups of coffee.

You people act like Vienna is the only place in Europe where you don't get refills! It's more surprising when you DO get refills! This just isn't the custom in most of Europe. Get over it!

bettyk,
I share your fustration. I'll take a small (well, Grosser brauner)cup of wonderful Vienna coffee any day.

Chill out bettyk. We are "over it" Its not a huge issue - certainly not one to get upset over. Did you get up on the wrong side of the bed this morning or what?

If it's not such a huge issue, then why keep bemoaning the point. Vienna has small cups of expensive coffee, period. That's their tradition and they probably won't change it because some Americans don't like it.

RE: bettyk

Sorry we "got your goat". I think you are the one who is over reacting to some innocent, semi-serious grousing from folks who know and love Vienna. It must be nice to never find fault with anything or place in europe. So, what do you think about those tiny, little showers with no doors and the slippery hand-held water wands?

Two additions...

1. Consider part of that expensive cup of coffe as rent. After you order you can stay as long as you like.

2. If Starbucks conquers this city they will think twice about high prices. You can get nearly 4x the coffe at Starbies. Although I am not a fan of Starbucks takeover of a city, I think they can teach Vienna a thing or two. Think of what happened when Starbucks opened in may US neighborhoods, they put mom and pop out of business. In cities like NY and LA the concentration is so high there is no room for competition. When Satrbucks feels threatened they buy the competition which is what the recently did in London and Seattle. Starbuck just bought their biggest competitor, Seattles Best Coffee. A few years ago they also bought Pasqua in San Francisco. Who know perhaps someday Dunkin Donuts?

In case you care, Dumas, My shower in Vienna was huge.

Richard - you are on thin ice with bettyk over your recent starbucks and Dunkin Donuts post. She's sure to go through the roof thinking about jellyrolls and bearclaws replacing Mohr im Hemd and Apfel Strudel.

Here's an interesting fact about the coffee in vienna: According to legend, Vienna's first coffee beans were brought to the city in 1683 by a Turkish army that had laid siege to the city. After the Turks were defeated by the Austrian troops and their allies, the first coffee house was opened by a Polish immigrant, Georg Kolschitzky. Fluent in Turkish, he had operated behind enemy lines during the siege and gathered military intelligence for the Austrian troops. Armed with his inside info, the outnumbered Austrians and their allies knew the weaknesses of the opponents and were able to defeat them. The Polish immigrant declined monetary payment for his services. As payment, he requested the vast stockpile of "camel fodder" that had been left behind by the Turkish Army. Soon afterwards, Kolschitzky opened the first Viennese coffee house using the "camel fodder" of the Turks.

Having lived in Vienna for 2 years, I think I "know" Vienna. I just think it's a little ridiculous to go to a city as fabulous as Vienna and grouse about little cups of expensive coffee. Many cities in Europe are more expensive than Vienna -- London, Paris, Geneva, Zurich, etc. Things are always going to be different when you travel to foreign countries. That should be one of the reasons you go.

I disagree Betty...

As a frequent traveler to Paris and London I think Vienna is more expensive, not by much. In fact, I was in London the week before I was in Vienna and it was easy to se the difference.

Don't get me wrong. Vienna is a fabulous and beautiful city. The people are some of the friendliest and most helpful in Europe. I was not impressed by the coffee. I also have to say I am a espresso and Starbucks addict. Actually I like Starbies regular coffee and hate their espresso. I also think their fancy coffees are over rated and over priced. Like fine wind I feel that i have a palatte for fine espresso. Now in Rome they know how to do it!

OH! I also never suggested that a Dunkin Donuts open in Vienna! I hate that place. I hate their coffee and their donuts. BUT.... Since their is a Subway store in Vienna could Dunkin be far behind?

dumas, actually, I'm having a wonderful day, but thanks for your concern.

Has anyone here attended any of the auctions at the Dorotheum? I think that would be a fun thing to do also while in Vienna.

Richardab

Thanks so much for your very thorough report, especially as Vienna is on our plans for next year. I laughed to read your comments about the behaviour of Viennese pedestrians, because where I live New York tourists always comment on our fastidious attention to the traffic lights. If I ever get to NYC, I'll have to learn to be a lot more assertive. : - )

On the great Coffee shop debate - my dim memory of my last trip to Wien 20 odd years ago was that many coffeeshops were fantastically decorated and the service impeccable - I felt part of the price was for this 'show.' I quite like Starbucks coffee, but the atmosphere isn't the same.

Thanks for your honest impressions - and I'm glad overall you enjoyed your trip. One question: what criteria did you use in selecting your "best" list?

My "best" list is just personal preference. Since I fear I suffer from ADD, spending hours in a museum looking at painting bores me. I like to be on the street, especially if the weather is good. I suppose if it was raining or cold I would like to be in a nice museum.

You are also right about the decorated ciffe shops, but again maybe I did not get to close to them because it was nice outside, the interiors were very hot and I couldn't see any reason to sit for very long (ouch my aching feet).

Sue_xx_yy

If you have time, you might enjoy Belvedere Palace. Its easy to get to, has some nice art and gardens and doesn't take more than 1-2 hours. Go early to Schonbrunn Palace and you can do a long walk in the woods behind the Gloriette Pavilion if the weather is nice. On your first day, you might want to do a City Orientation Ride (via tram#2 on the Ringstresse) and then hop off and see the Kunsthistorisches Museum.

topped

boy.. do you people get "aerated" about coffee.. Definitely try to get to the Belvedere.. it doesn't seem to be publicized and that is a shame.. well worth seeing.. Why do "we" go on vacations to "foreign" places and then comment that they aren't the same as the US??

Darn I did try the Belvedere but there was a transit strike that day and they were closed because no one showed up at work!

My daughter and I were in Vienna June 10-12. It was very hot and humid, just as it had been in July of '65, my last time there. I found the St. Stephansdom area to be most unattractive - it was so pedestrian. We had some wonderful coffee and sweets - Sachertorte and Linzertorte - at Demel's where the waitresses were most gracious, and we loved the stuff in the jewelers' windows in that street - happily they were already closed, or we might not have had enough money for the rest of our extensive trip ! Vienna was our first stop.

I am from NYC, and I thought the admission price to the museums was high. But, let's not forget that Vienna is doing extensive work on its museums to make the city more of a tourist destination. We got tickets to the Kunsthistorische (wow !) and Leopold Museums for 16.50 euros. Worth every euro, and we were happy to help them out with a little money.

We stayed at the Marriot (internet special price) where the room was fine and highly air-conditioned, and it did have windows one could open (wow !). The lobby wasn't so nice. Wasn't air-conditioned. Ugh ! Because it was so horridly hot, the only thing we could eat in their restaurant, we collapsed there after our museum jaunts, was the tomato and fresh mozzerella salad with the most heavenly creamy basalmic dressing. I am going to write Gourmet magazine to see if they can get the receipe for that dressing !

topping

Thank you so much for your wonderful trip report! I am heading to Vienna in November and practically every question I had was answered.

happy to help!

I just wanted to say that we tried Oswald and Kalb and it was indeed very good. Thanks for the recommendation. It is definately not a very touristy restaurant.

ttt

Richard,

Thank you for topping this; what a fantastic trip report!

Thanks, someday I will get my pics online!

These reports really do come in handy! I'm in Vienna right now (arrived yesterday). The hotel suggested I try Oswald und Kalb for dinner tonight and reserved a table for me...so I had to find an Internet cafe and do a quick check for Fodorite reviews! (O & K wasn't on my restaurant list for this trip.) I've got 10 days here in Vienna, so looking forward to trying some new places as well as my old favorites.
P.S. Weather is COLD, blessings on nice and warm Kandehar boots. Some snow on the ground, but I saw a lot more as the train passed through Linz and St. Polten...look for a trip report at the end of next week.

Don't worry, Oswald and lab is good!

ooops, I should check what I type before I hit POST.

WOW! great report,i would love to go to vienna someday,maybe next year.For what i've read u had such a great time.Is vienna so expensive as people say?

I thought it was a bit pricey. I did get a great hotel deal and it was very central so it was worth it. Food is a bit high but like anyplace, there are tons of cheap options. For some reason drink (like Coke) are so expensive in the center of the city. I stocked up at the supermarket because my hotel room had a frig.

Richard, that was an excellent trip report and it had lots of detail. I expect many folks who have never been to Vienna, will consider your report helpful. I have been to Vienna several times and I consider it to be one of the jewels of Europe. The food and drink is costly but who cares. If I travel around the world to visit a city, then I can afford a few extra euros for a cup of coffee. People who travel to Vienna will impressed by the beauty, history, and friendliness of the city.

Oswald und Kalb was good, but I expected a little better. I give it 6.5 out of 10. Points deducted for:
rindersuppe with pancake strips (one of my favorite soups) was a little too salty.
The blaufrankisch wine by the glass was pretty mundane, I expected better and it was German, not Austrian!
Without asking, the waiter snatched the pepper mill from my table and gave it to another table. I hadn't finished eating and there was a chance I still needed it.
Overall, though, it was a nice dining experience and I would probably go there again.
I learned something, too, that the Austrian dessert "mohr im hemd" is the same as the French "chocolat moelleux", that is, a dark chocolate cake with a warm chocolate mousse center. Served at O und K with whipped cream and a dark chocolate and cherry sauce.

Richard
Thanks for the very detailed Viennese report. We are seriously considering taking our 2 teenaged sons there in August (yeah, hot & crowded), and I am wondering...do you think Vienna offers enough for them to enjoy?
They are well-traveled kids (7 trips to Europe in 6 yrs.) but, like you, do not care to spend hours in art museums or churchs. We have blitzed the Ufizzi, Vatican Museums, British Museum, Louvre, D'Orsay.... As part of this trip, I wanted to do a biking/ferry excursion on the Danube to visit Melk, et al. Will it be just to @#!* hot?

Any words of wisdom are deeply appreciated.

Thanks,
Patty

Patty,
of course I am not Richard whom you asked for help re Vienna, but perhaps you will accept my help.
Will it be hot in August? We have seen a really hot summer last year. In former years, we had a lot of rain in summer (that is why many people in Austria used to go Italy for a holiday). Nobody can tell you at the moment.
One thing I can tell you is that there will be a lot to do and see for your teenage sons!

For a rainy day, visit the House of Music (Haus der Musik) in the city of Vienna. It is not so much a museum but a way to experience and make music (and noise).
You can virtually conduct an orchestra,
experiment on computers and make your own cd. You can play instruments that only exist in the house of music.

Too hot? Not in the underground! There are guided tours of Vienna's labyrinth of underground passageways, cellars and burial crypts. Tours and schedules on http://www.wienguide.at/

Where do Viennese kids go to bike, inline skate and hang around? Take your kids to Donauinsel, a recreation area enclosed by the River Danube and by the New Danube. It offers swimming, surfing, rowing, cycling, ball games and much more. At 21 km long and up to 250 m wide, the northern und southern areas of the island have been left to nature while the middle section consists of park landscape. Numerous restaurants and leisure facilities, open during the summer months, complete the perfect relaxed atmosphere for all visitors.

Sounds like going to Vienna even if the weather is unpredictable???

I enjoyed reading your informative report. We'll be in Vienna June 21 to 24th and we're thinking of staying at the Pension Lerner on Wipplinger Strasse. Have you ever heard of this pension? This will our first trip to Vienna and we found your report very helpful.

padbrasher, I am wondering what other cities you have visited. I think Vienna is a fine city but I am not too sure if it will hold the interest of your kids. Biking on the danube sounds like fun, I guess the heat is hit or miss. But it is hot nearly everywhere in August....

Thanks for an outstanding report! We will be in Vienna next month for 3 nights. Your suggestions will be duly noted!

Richard-
Thank you for an excellent report on Vienna. I am in the process of starting to plan for my 2 wks trip to Berlin-Prague-Vienna-Budapest in July 2005, so this is a great starting point for Vienna.

gald to help, let me know i f u have any questions

This is *the* most comprehensive trip report I've ever seen. I mean, you even included info on vending machines LOL. THANK YOU! We are off to Vienna this fall and I plan to read over all of this very carefully (All 11 pages of it, plus additional 9 pages of posts)

gnr

Richard, I really enjoyed reading your trip report! We were in Vienna this past February and loved it, although we had the opposite problem you had...it was FREEZING! There was snow and freezing rain. Even bundled up, we couldn't wait to get indoors. I loved the city but can't wait to go back when its warm and the city is more lively.

We too stayed near St. Stephens,off of Graeben (Pension Pertschy) and agree that its the best area to stay. We were so close to everything.

As far as the coffee debate, we only tried one coffee house but loved it. It was the Cafe Central. The pastries were good, as was the coffee, albeit kind of small, but we aren't huge coffee drinkers and it wasn't a problem. The cafe itself was gorgeous, with cathedraled cealings. To view it, go to http://www.palaisevents.at/ and click on "cafe central" on the bottom.

We went to Cafe Sacher but had lunch (terrific potato soup) and sacher tortes. Very good but the atmosphere was a little too formal for my liking. I know there is some debate here on the sacher torte, but I loved it!

Thanks again for your report!
Tracy

Richard:
We leave for Austria in 13 days and will spend 3 days in Vienna. I want to thank you in advance for extensive report which I am taking with me.

Richard (or anyone)
Being a relative novice to this forum I have a couple of really stupid questions: 1. What does a reply of ttt mean? 2. Read and enjoyed your trip report - would you recommend going to Austria around Xmas time? How does Vienna compare with say Salzberg or other cities? If you only had a week to spend in Austria, how would you do it or where would you go? Thanks in advance for your advice.

Shrink:
"ttt" or "topping" or "to the top" all mean the reader is sending the message to the top of the board so others will more easily see it.

Shrink, I think Austraia will be VERY COLD in December but i bet its enchanting to see it at the holiday time. As far as where elso to go I think Vienna is worth 3 or 4 days at best. I haven't been to any other cities in Austria but I am also not a fan of Salzberg. i thought it was very small. Why not Prague? It's close by...

Shrink,

Oh, I loved both Vienna and Salzburg, but I'm a Mozart groupie. There are a couple of fairly recent threads here about these two cities at Christmastime, so it may be worth a search. If you like small villages, I'd also check out Hallstadt, although I don't know how accessible it will be in the winter. I didn't make it there last time but it's high on my list.

Enjoy Austria!

thank you so much for the great, detailed report. Its been years since you've posted this but it has really gotten me excited about going to vienna . I'm not a person who likes operas and can only go to so many museums so your report was like a breath of fresh air...... not going on and on about museum after museum and the opera. Being from DC where most museums are free I too will think that museum hoping is expensive in Vienna.

Hi Richardab,
Did you try Griensteidl's in Michaelerplatz.For me it's the best coffee house in vienna.