Vienna →Melk → Durnstein → Krems: details, details…
Mar 31st, 2015, 08:21 AM
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Vienna →Melk → Durnstein → Krems: details, details…
I have reviewed so many posts and websites in order to cobble together details for the train-cruise day trip from Vienna to Melk. We will be traveling on a Monday in May. Since many of the posts I am relying on are getting rather old, I am hoping that someone with recent experience will comment on this plan. And perhaps it will save someone else a lot of research time!
7:10 Arrive at Westbahnhof; purchase combo ticket
Called "Bahn - Schiff – Kultur." You get 3 vouchers: train rides; Melk Abbey admission; cruise. For the latter two, take vouchers to the ticket office at the respective places to exchange for tickets.
7:30 Depart Westbahnhof via Railjet; arrive in St. Polten Hbf at 7:54. Only 5 min to catch the next train!
7:59 Depart St. Polten REX 1612; arrive in Melk at 8:17. Train schedule is found at www.oebb.at
8:30 In Melk: walk the town, have coffee/snack, walk to the Abbey Use map from Melk Abbey website
10:00 Tour Abbey and gardens - guided tour of Abbey in English at 10:55 or tour on your own
12:00 Walk to town for lunch - possibly at Zur Post
1:20 Head for the boat dock; choose boat; Exchange voucher for actual ticket
At the dock, check out Brandner (closer dock) or DDSG (little further) and decide which to take. DDSG boat has a larger open-top deck. Brandner boat more recently renovated. DDSG ticket booth is on the path from Melk. Brandner ticket booth is little inland. When you get to the river, there is a sign above the bridge for “Wachau Scheduled Cruise Wachau.” (Do NOT cross the bridge; those boats for overnight.) Walk along the river; at the Y, take the narrow left paved path along the river.
1:45 Brandner departs
1:50 DSGG departs
3:05 Brandner arrives in Dürnstein. See the Castle ruins, sample wine, snack at Schmidl bakery
Both boats use the same Dürnstein boat dock; center of the village is 3- 5 min walk. A long series of steps are immediately by the boat dock, next to the Strand Café, good ice cream. To avoid steps, walk 3 min downstream on the Promenade, pass the blue steeple; use the stone walkway into the village.
Ruins: Walking directions from Dürnstein boat dock to ruins - immediately turn right as you leave the boat dock; walk several hundred meters on a paved promenade along the Danube. Photo ops along this way of the Blue Steeple, etc. You will find a paved pathway just before the small ferryboat on the left side. Take this pathway, passing the Alter Klosterkeller heuriger and simply stay on this way till the top passing the nice markers as you go. This the easy way.
Bakery: Schmidl on Durnstein 21
Wine: By the east entrance door through the village wall is the small shop of the society of local vintners. Usually one of the members is there with samples and advice. Usually has a large barrel in front made into a table to allow one to relax, and small area inside. Common wines are whites:
• Gruner Veltliner-- the most commonly grown in this area - much difference in taste according to location of vineyard; note various types - federspiel is good
• Riesling
• Neuburger
• Some good reds also like Zweigelt
Domane wachau- www.domaene-wachau.at This large co- operative of many small growers producing fine wines is walkable from the center of Durnstein in 5-10 min.
In the village center is the winery Bohmer- next to the Rathaus- small retail and test area- nice and cool on a hot day- multi generation family operation - good wine and at good price.
4:33 or 5:33 pm: Bus # WL1 departs bus stop Dürnstein Parkplatz Ost takes 18 min to Krems train station
The stop is at the east end of the village, about 5 min walk from the village center. Charge for bus is not included in combo ticket; pay bus driver. Bus schedule at www.oebb.at.
Directions: Dürnstein has just one main street, a cobble stoned pedestrian zone. Walk east on this main street, leaving the village by the wall door to the east end - it has the Steiner Tor. You walk past a vinothek on the right and a Raiffeisen Bank - then slightly downhill with vineyards on both sides- then using an pedestrian underpass - walk under the road and then just after this corner a Nah und Friesch supermarket to the left and a parking lot across the street on your right side - the small bus stop there by the roadway next to the parking lot. A small sign there in yellow and green I think with the letter " H " to show the bus stop. The bus will exit from the tunnel just a short distance to the west - turn the corner and stop immediately by this bus stop.
5:02 or 6:02 pm: Take Train from Krems/Donau Bahnhof to Franz Josef Bahnhof. arrives 1 hour later.
Or get off earlier - The train from Krems to Vienna makes 3 stops in Vienna, usually taxis are waiting:
1. Heiligenstadt: connection UBahn line U-4 to city center - stops like Schwedenplatz, Oper/ Karlsplatz.
2. Spittelau- UBahn lines U-4 and U-6; Take U-6 to U-3 to hotel.
3. Franz Josef Bahnhof – this is the end station streetcar D to center along the Ring. U-4 stop Friendenbrucke - a 5-minute walk. The D found in front of the train station; take direction Sudbahnhof.
Thank you, Fodorites!
7:10 Arrive at Westbahnhof; purchase combo ticket
Called "Bahn - Schiff – Kultur." You get 3 vouchers: train rides; Melk Abbey admission; cruise. For the latter two, take vouchers to the ticket office at the respective places to exchange for tickets.
7:30 Depart Westbahnhof via Railjet; arrive in St. Polten Hbf at 7:54. Only 5 min to catch the next train!
7:59 Depart St. Polten REX 1612; arrive in Melk at 8:17. Train schedule is found at www.oebb.at
8:30 In Melk: walk the town, have coffee/snack, walk to the Abbey Use map from Melk Abbey website
10:00 Tour Abbey and gardens - guided tour of Abbey in English at 10:55 or tour on your own
12:00 Walk to town for lunch - possibly at Zur Post
1:20 Head for the boat dock; choose boat; Exchange voucher for actual ticket
At the dock, check out Brandner (closer dock) or DDSG (little further) and decide which to take. DDSG boat has a larger open-top deck. Brandner boat more recently renovated. DDSG ticket booth is on the path from Melk. Brandner ticket booth is little inland. When you get to the river, there is a sign above the bridge for “Wachau Scheduled Cruise Wachau.” (Do NOT cross the bridge; those boats for overnight.) Walk along the river; at the Y, take the narrow left paved path along the river.
1:45 Brandner departs
1:50 DSGG departs
3:05 Brandner arrives in Dürnstein. See the Castle ruins, sample wine, snack at Schmidl bakery
Both boats use the same Dürnstein boat dock; center of the village is 3- 5 min walk. A long series of steps are immediately by the boat dock, next to the Strand Café, good ice cream. To avoid steps, walk 3 min downstream on the Promenade, pass the blue steeple; use the stone walkway into the village.
Ruins: Walking directions from Dürnstein boat dock to ruins - immediately turn right as you leave the boat dock; walk several hundred meters on a paved promenade along the Danube. Photo ops along this way of the Blue Steeple, etc. You will find a paved pathway just before the small ferryboat on the left side. Take this pathway, passing the Alter Klosterkeller heuriger and simply stay on this way till the top passing the nice markers as you go. This the easy way.
Bakery: Schmidl on Durnstein 21
Wine: By the east entrance door through the village wall is the small shop of the society of local vintners. Usually one of the members is there with samples and advice. Usually has a large barrel in front made into a table to allow one to relax, and small area inside. Common wines are whites:
• Gruner Veltliner-- the most commonly grown in this area - much difference in taste according to location of vineyard; note various types - federspiel is good
• Riesling
• Neuburger
• Some good reds also like Zweigelt
Domane wachau- www.domaene-wachau.at This large co- operative of many small growers producing fine wines is walkable from the center of Durnstein in 5-10 min.
In the village center is the winery Bohmer- next to the Rathaus- small retail and test area- nice and cool on a hot day- multi generation family operation - good wine and at good price.
4:33 or 5:33 pm: Bus # WL1 departs bus stop Dürnstein Parkplatz Ost takes 18 min to Krems train station
The stop is at the east end of the village, about 5 min walk from the village center. Charge for bus is not included in combo ticket; pay bus driver. Bus schedule at www.oebb.at.
Directions: Dürnstein has just one main street, a cobble stoned pedestrian zone. Walk east on this main street, leaving the village by the wall door to the east end - it has the Steiner Tor. You walk past a vinothek on the right and a Raiffeisen Bank - then slightly downhill with vineyards on both sides- then using an pedestrian underpass - walk under the road and then just after this corner a Nah und Friesch supermarket to the left and a parking lot across the street on your right side - the small bus stop there by the roadway next to the parking lot. A small sign there in yellow and green I think with the letter " H " to show the bus stop. The bus will exit from the tunnel just a short distance to the west - turn the corner and stop immediately by this bus stop.
5:02 or 6:02 pm: Take Train from Krems/Donau Bahnhof to Franz Josef Bahnhof. arrives 1 hour later.
Or get off earlier - The train from Krems to Vienna makes 3 stops in Vienna, usually taxis are waiting:
1. Heiligenstadt: connection UBahn line U-4 to city center - stops like Schwedenplatz, Oper/ Karlsplatz.
2. Spittelau- UBahn lines U-4 and U-6; Take U-6 to U-3 to hotel.
3. Franz Josef Bahnhof – this is the end station streetcar D to center along the Ring. U-4 stop Friendenbrucke - a 5-minute walk. The D found in front of the train station; take direction Sudbahnhof.
Thank you, Fodorites!
Mar 31st, 2015, 08:56 AM
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You have researched well.
- St. Polten train change. The Vienna-St. Polten is a LONG train. St. Polten-Melk was a one car train parked on the same platform on opposite track = ~ 20m? But because of the train length mismatch, if you are traveling at front or back of the Vienna-St.Polten train, there will be more walking. I happened, no one told me about this, to get onto the middle of the train from Vienna and voila, my car was the one that stopped right across the tiny train to Melk. Transfer? perhaps 10 seconds door to door.
- If you have dined in Austria, you would know that it can be a chore to catch waiter's attention to get the bill to leave the restaurant to head to the boat dock. We watched the waitress flying from one table to another with no time to even glace at our table in Melk. So, after 20 min of this and the boat time approaching, I had to stand up and catch her in her path (breaking all sorts of restaurant etiquette) to get the bill to be able to leave the restaurant. Unless you know a trick I don't know to catch waiter's attention, don't wait until the last minute for the bill.
- St. Polten train change. The Vienna-St. Polten is a LONG train. St. Polten-Melk was a one car train parked on the same platform on opposite track = ~ 20m? But because of the train length mismatch, if you are traveling at front or back of the Vienna-St.Polten train, there will be more walking. I happened, no one told me about this, to get onto the middle of the train from Vienna and voila, my car was the one that stopped right across the tiny train to Melk. Transfer? perhaps 10 seconds door to door.
- If you have dined in Austria, you would know that it can be a chore to catch waiter's attention to get the bill to leave the restaurant to head to the boat dock. We watched the waitress flying from one table to another with no time to even glace at our table in Melk. So, after 20 min of this and the boat time approaching, I had to stand up and catch her in her path (breaking all sorts of restaurant etiquette) to get the bill to be able to leave the restaurant. Unless you know a trick I don't know to catch waiter's attention, don't wait until the last minute for the bill.
Mar 31st, 2015, 09:12 AM
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Greg - thank you. You might have recognized that I quoted/paraphrased from one or more of your posts; they have been very helpful! Great idea to get on the middle of the train - I had not thought of the possible benefit of that. Regarding getting the check, good reminder; I heard a suggestion to alert the waiter at the beginning of the meal that you need to leave by 'x' time, and that might help keep things on track.
Mar 31st, 2015, 08:47 PM
#6
GinnyJo, your plan is very thorough. What caught my attention is that your travel is on a Monday. Mondays are notorious "ruhetagen" (rest days) for museums and restaurants across Central Europe, and Zur Post is indeed closed on Mondays. So, too, may some of the smaller places you have identified be closed. Flexibility may be your friend on Monday. 
Also wanted to clarify your return option. The D tram at Franz-Josef BHf now heads toward the city in the direction of the Hauptbahnhof, not Sudbahnhof. With the renovation of the station, its name has changed to reflect its larger purpose. Personally I would catch the U4 at Heiligenstadt or Spittelau for faster transit into the center. I love the D, but it can putter along from up here into the center.
Also wanted to clarify your return option. The D tram at Franz-Josef BHf now heads toward the city in the direction of the Hauptbahnhof, not Sudbahnhof. With the renovation of the station, its name has changed to reflect its larger purpose. Personally I would catch the U4 at Heiligenstadt or Spittelau for faster transit into the center. I love the D, but it can putter along from up here into the center.
Apr 1st, 2015, 05:09 AM
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in the direction of the Hauptbahnhof, not Sudbahnhof.>
I thought the new Hauptbahnhof was basically an extension of the older Sudbahnhof - are they not in the same place? Curious and not saying you are wrong just for my info please clarify for me - thanks.
I thought the new Hauptbahnhof was basically an extension of the older Sudbahnhof - are they not in the same place? Curious and not saying you are wrong just for my info please clarify for me - thanks.
Apr 1st, 2015, 07:10 AM
#9
PalenQ, "Wien Hauptbahnhof" has replaced "Sudbhanhof" or "SudTirolerPlatz" in name. The station is in more or less the same place, but has been expanded substantially and now includes offices and stores and all that shiny stuff. The station's offerings are rather nice, too, especially the grocery that is open on Sundays.
Apr 1st, 2015, 10:29 AM
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Thanks, Fourfortravel, for the heads up on both points. I wanted to have the how-to of the transit details nailed down, but otherwise we are definitely flexible as to filling in the rest -- always a necessity when traveling!
Neckervd, we will arrive at Westbf on foot or by U-3. I am allowing 20 min on a Monday morning to find the ticket counter and purchase the tickets, and get to the correct platform. Is 20 min sufficient? This is our first time in Vienna.
Neckervd, we will arrive at Westbf on foot or by U-3. I am allowing 20 min on a Monday morning to find the ticket counter and purchase the tickets, and get to the correct platform. Is 20 min sufficient? This is our first time in Vienna.
Apr 2nd, 2015, 12:07 AM
#11
GinnyJo, Westbahnhof is a busy station, with over 40.000 travelers passing through each day. I would allow more than 20 minutes to purchase tickets and get to your platform. Can you purchase the tickets online in advance?
Apr 2nd, 2015, 07:24 AM
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Fourfortravel, thanks for the info. We will first arrive in Vienna several days prior via Westbahnhof, so I think I'll purchase our Melk combo tickets then, and get my bearings for the platform, etc.
Sep 30th, 2015, 07:35 AM
#15
JulieVikmanis, you'll have to check the DDSG and Brandner cruise websites for their last sailing dates for the year (though, I think most Wachau cruises start winding down in November).
Train/bus travel logistics for the Vienna-Melk-Durnstein-Krems-Vienna route are out there, and hopefully others will chime in on how that all works. I can not be of any help, I'm afraid. We use our personal vehicle at that time of year to attend Advent and Christmas markets in Lower Austria.
Train/bus travel logistics for the Vienna-Melk-Durnstein-Krems-Vienna route are out there, and hopefully others will chime in on how that all works. I can not be of any help, I'm afraid. We use our personal vehicle at that time of year to attend Advent and Christmas markets in Lower Austria.
Sep 30th, 2015, 10:12 AM
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If the boats were not running there is local bus service along both sides of the river I think and trains Durnstein (bus to Krens then train to Vienna) and trains to Melk always run as usual.
Not sure the Wachau would be so enjoyable in cool dark dank damp weather typical of the area IME at that time of year.
Not sure the Wachau would be so enjoyable in cool dark dank damp weather typical of the area IME at that time of year.
Aug 24th, 2016, 07:11 AM
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Hi, GinnyJo, I can't answer your last question, because we did this trip many years ago, as a family of four. We loved it.
Just a thought: we really liked visiting the Melk Abbey. We found their little 'cafe' to be perfect, for a light lunch overlooking the beautiful grounds. When we were there, this was not a full-service cafe, but a serve yourself type set-up. It could be completely different now, but it should still have its patio and its view.
I suggest you allow time to take a breather there, and enjoy viewing the peaceful grounds.
Just a thought: we really liked visiting the Melk Abbey. We found their little 'cafe' to be perfect, for a light lunch overlooking the beautiful grounds. When we were there, this was not a full-service cafe, but a serve yourself type set-up. It could be completely different now, but it should still have its patio and its view.
I suggest you allow time to take a breather there, and enjoy viewing the peaceful grounds.
Aug 24th, 2016, 07:14 AM
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This is the cafe I refer to: http://www.stiftsrestaurant-melk.at/en/pavilion-cafe
The Abbey website also shows a restaurant and another cafe.
The Abbey website also shows a restaurant and another cafe.
