Venice and Florence Soujourn

Nice start... by "break up the report", I am hoping (urging) that you might resist the temptation to start another thread...

Seems so much more straightforward to simply "reply to yourself" and add the subsequent installments right here.

Best wishes,

Rex

i hear you rex and i intend to continue right here

PART II---the real planning

we have a moderate sized travel library, consisting of books, fliers, business cards, newspaper and magazine articles which we store in bags by country in our attic --- this allows us easy access at all hours of day and nite...in addition every nite while we are travelling karen writes a journal of what we did that day for reference in the future---you think my spelling is bad, and its not only doctors who have bad penmanship....
for the last few years i am relying more and more on internet sources...
i find fodors.com to be a great source and i am usually signed on to the europe and asia sites at least twice daily...as karen says it is my life---"get a life"...i do notice that she enjoys herself on the trips however...better quit while i am ahead of the game on that score....
recently i have started to buy used and slightly "new" travel books from amazon.com for our travels as well..
this time we used the following books:
michelin green Italy
michelin green tuscany
access guide milan, florence and venice---we like the way they take you down every street or neighborhood listing buildings, restaurants, shops, etc in the order you walk by them....this was an old one which i purchased for maybe $1.97 on amazon---we riped it apart and took only what we wanted...have glued it back together now and its like new..
chow venice ---saw this on fodors
food lover's guide to florence--also from a fodors posting
a general italy guide from one of the major source companies--have loanded it out already so don't remember which one it is
the treasurers and pleasurers of italy by ron krannich---we love his books, especially the thailand one
lonely planet venice, condensed---we found this in the apartment in venice and lastly
insight italy


i think these are the major books we used

added to this our classmate jeanne g gave us some good suggestions when we met her at the voting site for the presidential primary just before we left....she had just returned from florence..don't forget to vote....

our literature in the attic was not of too much help this time other than the books we already owned...

we decided that this would be a totally relaxed trip...no agenda. no deadlines...just enjoy...that worked out well...no must sees, nothing that we were obligated to do...

from the internet and fodors i learned how to get to venice from the airport: take the 80 Euro plus private taxi right to our door; or take a bus to roma and then a boat along the grand canal to the salute stop; or as we choose to take, the alilguna boat directly from the airport, after a small connection bus, to the pier at the airport to zattere, just one bridge away from the palazzetto...the fee was 10 euro each and it runs hourly...they help you with the luggage when you board....in the past we had always driven to venice and parked in one of the large garages outside the city and taken the #1 boat into the city proper...the alilaguna schedule is available on the internet...

we arranged for hedley to come for us at 3:45PM on the 5th.....we have a very quick drive to logan airport now, thanks to all of you tax payers who have built us that wonderful new tunnel and the rest of the so-called "big dig" in boston at the cost of more than $16 billion...we can make it in less than 25 minutes...

Hedley Vert, our driver, is a very congenial man...he is a native of the Mauritius, an island group off of east africa. he has been in the boston area since the 60's and has raised a family here....he delights us with stories of his family and his homeland, making the short ride all the more enjoyable....in his simple way i find him far brighter and wiser than many of my ivy league PHD neighbors and townfolk....

so we awaited the departure day, each day becomming more difficult to make it through than the previous one....after all we had not been away for over 85 days, except for the all too short week-end at the mt washington hotel in NH, where our kids took us for the week-end of january 9th to celebrate our birthdays....oh yes on january 10th it was minus 31 degrees F outside the hotel at 6PM....karen loves her fur coat on days like this....the outside pool was heated to 90 degrees and there were some, very few, people swimming....

so finally march 5 arrived and hedley was right on time....we had decided to travel lite---karen can always pack everything she needs in her great green rolly, but i opted for a slightly larger rolly with lots of extra room...i like fresh undies and socks each day and didn't want to have to wash out anything....she took only 6 undies and had to wash...she is also much better co-ordinated with her clothing than am i...we each had a medium size carry-on as well....the ride was quick and smooth into logan and hedley had a series of anedots to keep us interested for the ride....

there was no one in front of us at alitalia so we checked in smoothly...first problem....the seats we had been assigned were changed...i should explain....karen thinks that she is clostrophobic and that she has to have a window seat....i had arranged that 11 months earlier with no problem but this airline choose to rearrange things...this was a small issue, but the clerk said the eqpt. had been changed requiring the seat changes and that there were no windows left...found it hard to believe as we were very early to arrive and no-one had been in line in front of us...the clerk explained that she had been able to get us a seat with extra leg room...the front seat in the section....guess people with that extra leg room don't need room for their feet as the wall makes sitting comfortably difficult...i knew this from prior situations....karen said we will make due....i was mad and said to myself never again alitalia...when we were seated i asked a flight attendant about the change in eqpt and she said that this was the usual plane---the check-in attendant had lied
next was security....it took over one hour to get through the intitial security check...very thorough, which is welcome actually...they have really cleaned up their act and it seemed very professional (if that is a correct use of that word here) and thorough...the people even spoke acceptable english...karen had her usual problem with her gold bangles and this time her bra clasp and steel shanks in her ecco slip-ons....he took the time to show her the x-ray of the steel shank in the shoe which she was unaware of....
i flew right through....
we had opted for a big lunch at legal sea-food that day so we had nothing to eat prior to boarding the plane...boarding went smoothly, even though a group of middle ages were anxious to board and kept being turned back...they were quite vocal...

more after lunch

good report rh

Bob: I feel like a kid again waiting for the next episode!! Super so far.. you really do work to coordinate flights, etc. Think you are a perfect example of why we don't use travel agents.. except most of us don't/can't do it as well as you. Know what you mean about Alitalia.. feel the same way about Iberia!! SIK

PART III THE FLIGHT AND ARRIVAL

the flight took off right on schedule and the plane was full....we ended up with the seat between us empty so that was a bonus...the food was ok and karen watched a movie....i counted sheep....we each took a sleeping pill, which we often do on overnite flights, and she dozed....i counted more sheep...quite a jam up at the immigration security check point at milan....mass confusion would better describe it...30 minutes or so and we were on our way to the next flight...boarded the next plane which was a beautiful 2 and 2 seat configuration airbus...it was like business class throughout the plane...about 1/2 full...it was a quick 1/2 hour flight to venice's marco polo airport...my suicase was the next to last to come through...ho hum...quick exit through customs...no one was there....asked where to purchase the alilaguna tickets and that was done quickly for 10 e each...i had 70 euro left from our last trip so i was all set in the money department....we had planned to use atm withdrawals from various bank accounts while on this trip...we had no cash and no traveler's check, save one 50E check from a previous trip...
just a note on money...we now use atm's almost exclusively....we belong to two different credit unions and they allow completely free international withdrawals....the rates are good as well...i believe that mastercard and visa just tack on a 1% conversion fee....i did note this time that there was about a $5 difference in the conversion rate on $300 transactions, one credit union to the other....interesting
took the bus from the main airport door for the 5 minute ride to the pier...you can also walk in about the same time....one boat was just leaving and they told us that the zatere boat would be in in about 20 minutes....it was cold and raw but we enjoyed not being cooped up in an airplane...there was a british couple also waiting so we enjoyed converstaions with them....shortly a 50ish ny matron arrived with her younger "male" friend and they were quite impatient about the boat not being waiting for them...they needed to get to their grand canal 5* hotel----why didn't they take a water taxi, i wondered to myself?? the boat arrived and the crew had to have a coffee break for 15 minutes...they tunred off the boat and went to the near-by bar for their coffee and left us sitting out in the cold...it was fresh however...the boat loaded up and they assisted with the luggage as you have to go on via a somewhat narrow gang plank...the luggage is stored up front...the boat sits low in the water and is completely enclosed....you recive a lovely view of the open water as you cross the lagoon....we stopped at the lido first and then at murano island before arriving at st mark's square and then finally at zaterre....the ride was about 1 hour....we were tired but not dead....we were anxious to see our apartment and to meet the contessa...
she had told me that there was some construction on the zaterre and that they kept changing the stop location...we got off at a small pier and pulled our rollies along the stone and fairly flat zaterre in the direction that she had told me...her directions called for a 5 minute walk crossing over 3 bridges....in fact we only had to cross 1 bridge (the stop had been moved closer to her) before arriving at our our canal the rio della Formace...we were a bit unsure as the name was spelled slightly differently on the canal sign, but a charming and somewhat regal lady offered assistance....she even walked down the canal and looked for our address while we waited with cases on bridge #2...this was it she signalled us...we then crossed another bridge back across our canal and we were at the front door of the palazzetto....it all looked very familiar to us....i said to karen and she to me at the same time---isn't this the same canal we stayed on 10 years ago??? isn't that the hotel just down the canal about 1/2 way....yes it was....i knew we were to be in the same area but not on the same canal....this is the Dorsoduro area of venice....it is heavily residential, although most venitians have abandonned the main city as costs have risen and tourism and commerce have taken over...it is home to both the accademia museum and the guggenheim museum....the fornace canal cuts through dorsoduro from the grand canal opposite the gritti hotel to the large open water canal called Guidecca, where the zattere is located...i should have explained that the zattere is a wide, perhaps 50 feet or more, level promanade along the guidecca canal that runs practically the whole length of dorsoduro on the far side from the grand canal.....its a lovely place to walk, eat and sit in a somewhat quiet atmosphere...it has recently been completely reworked...

we rang the bell for number 1 the contessa's apartment....she answered us in perfect english and she bid us a welcome....she instructed us to wait by the next door along the canal and said she would be there in one minute...she opened the door with a big smile and a formal welcome...she is a middle aged woman...she was dressed simply, no tiara today....she had a large knitted cape on ....she said it is very cold and damp in the hall way...she offered assistance with the luggage but we were quite able to do it ourselves....well at least karen was able....she was reserved and somewhat regal in a simple straightforward way....
she started right in with explanations....we entered a long hallway....she showed us how the electrice door lock works, where the lite switch is, just inside the heavy front door...she said there were meters to be read for all of the utilities just inside the door which we could do later....she showed us the mud room for boots and umbrellas and then there was the stairway, with red carpet, up 15 stairs to our level...from this door only the two apartments on our level are reachable...there is the front and back apartments from this level....we had choosen the back apartment for several reasons...she showed us the rest of the celler/work area/maid's area which eventually led out into her huge entry way and out into the small back garden...we went up to the apartment...the doors were new and a lovely yellowish blond natural wood with lovel brass hardware...the door opened normally and then there is another 1/2 door that can be opened to make the doorway huge, if you need to....you step into a small hallway which has a couple of antique prints hanging on the wall and a huge antique painted wooden framed mirror, which takes up the entire end of the hall on the left as you enter...you continue into the living room and dining room combination...there is a large round wooden empire style table where "you can take your meals if you wish", two small silk covered side chairs and a silk covered love seat(each had a matching throw over it for protection i assume....there are two large windows at the rear of this room that overlook the garden and the ancient well..the garden had lots of green and a couple of trees including a tall fan palm tree....there were loads of red cyclomen plants in bloom as well....we thought it too cold but no....the walls are painted a cream color and have several frammed antique silk pieces in several shapes...there were many of these silk pieces throughout the apartment....there were a couple more morrors as well...there was a large antique desk and several book shelves in this room as well as well as a small table in front of the sofa...the floors were terrazo stone with a spotted motif and had oriental rugs on them...

have to quit here as off to daughters for family dinner ...more later

PART IV THE APARTMENT CONTINUED

just in back of the table is a raised area which is shielded by curtains....in this area are two twin beds which are raised about 3 feet off the living room floor on a platform...there are two portable steps which can be put down on each side of the platform to gain entrance...this is a perfect place for teenagers to sleep or for those not needing a regular sleeping room...the reason for the platform, the contessa explains, is the large cooper domed ceiling in a section of the main entrance hall to the other apartments...the authorities will not allow it to be removed for historical reasons....so this apartment has this oddity...there are reading lites above each twin bed for convenience with dual control switches...there is a large framed piece of silk above the head of the twin beds for decoration....under the front of the platform are two shelf built-in cabinets where the china is stored and some of the table linens...the apartment comes with lovely pressed linens for table and bed...

on the right from the dining/living room there is a short hallway leading to the kitchen....on the right off of this hall is a storage room where there are high boots supplied to the guests in case the water levels rise in the city, an iron and ironing board, an enclosed grocery cart on two wheels and a clothes drying rack, among other things....all handy items...

on the left is the entrance to the long narrow bathroom.....there is a tub with claw feet and a curious shower curtain arrangement which will only cover about 3/4 of a circle....the curtain is held by swinging arched arms which swing in a domed arch overhead and move easily....not the best....you have to be careful to use only the hand held shower and keep it from squirting against the wall where it will emerge from under the tub and make a mess on the gray and black marble floor....one try and you have it mastered....the walls looked like stone but in fact were plaster with a gray plastic wrap stenciling on them...very attractive....there was a large sink set into a marble top over a wooden base....the faucet had a swing arm... between the toilet and the tub there was a large heated towel rack which we loved...there was a window out to the garden over the toilet....squeezed in between the toilet and the towel rack there was a bidet....it sounds very small but really was quite adequate....it was however our least favorite room...

the kitchen was rectangular....as you come in from the hallway there is a table with four chairs directly in front of you....only three were really useful...it was covered with a lively oil cloth tablecloth....on the left was a small counter, then a washing machine which is also a dryer....we did not need it but she told us that a load takes 2-3 hours....the usual european situation... next to it was a marvelous appliance....on the top were four gas burners of various intensities...below that was an electric convection oven and broiler of medium size...no american thanksgiving turkeys would be cooked in it however...and finally on the bottom was a small dishwasher....to the right of that was a large two sink unit and then another counter....above the sink was a really nice thing....a double cabinet with no bottom....inside were two dripping racks for washed dishes to dry on....we loved it and never used the dishwasher....finally above the last cabinet was the combination gas furnace and hot water heater....it was very adequate and kept the place warm and with all the hot water we needed...opposite from that was what we would call an apartment sized refridgerator with a top freezer compartment...to the right of that was a built-in china cabinet and drawer unit for dishes and silverware and kitchen linens....i forgot that on either side of the sink there were undercounter cabinets with more pots and pans than most houses in the usa have...there were plenty of sharpe knives, cork screw, etc....there was not one item we needed during our stay that wasn't supplied there...we ate in several times because of this....the lighting in the kitchen was excellent with special lites covering each area...there was a large double window at the back overlooking the well again...there was a medium size covered waste bin at the back under the window which took all waste/garbage, etc...

the apartment is rented as i have described...there is no soap, cleaning liquids, salt pepper or flour....you have to supply all of this including toilet paper and paper towel if needed...you know this in advance....the billa grocery store is a 10-15 minute walk along the zattere and has everything you need and they are open all day every day until late...there were plenty of clean towels and other linens as noted above..

lastly there is the large bedroom on the left as you enter the living room from the front door....there was a king bed with lovely linens and warm covers with plenty of extras...the bed had a great firm and i would guess somewhat new mattress....the room was a pale green and cream...the bedspread was a lovely woven fabric and attractive....we had been told that there was a large double bed but never expected a king size so were delighted with this...on the left wall there were four ceiling to floor french doors with closets behind them covering the entire wall...behind the door was a lovely antique dressing table with mirror for karen to use....on the right was a double window overlooking the garden again and an armed side chair....next to it was a large antique burreau with 4 huge drawers and then another double window...there was a large 3 pain mirror over the bureau....again the room had a series of silk framed pieces for decoration....there were a couple of lamps in the room and lites on each side of the bed and a lite control on each bedside table...it was very comfortable...


essentially that is the apartment....#5 palazzetto da schio, venice

the countessa spent at least 30 minutes covering all apartment operations and showed us all of the appliance booklets should we need more info....she has also prepared a map and marked on it things like local pharmacy, bakery, restaurants near and far, dry cleaner, etc, etc...it was very helpful...she then reads the meters with or without you and gives you a copy for check-out...she wants you to ask for help or info at any time and made that very clear...she was always correct and friendly and we really like her...

the apartment is equipted with a cell phone for your use with about 30E credit on it...use it as you like and pay accordingly at the end....we made 3 local calls and it cost less than 1 euro...

her husband is now essentially an invalid so she is at home most of the time if you need assistance....at other times a maid is available...

speaking of maid....one came in three times during our stay to tidy up and do limited cleaning, etc...baths etc...this was included but i tipped them of course as well...they also do a complete clean up upon your departure...

the apartment was 790 Euro for the week...less for longer time and slightly more for 3-6 days (a per day rate)...3 day minimum...this is cheap!!!!!!

the utilities came to 53 Euro for the week...it was quite cold all week so the furnace ran most of the time....making up perhaps 80% of the 53E....

there is a tv in the living room with several local channels--no cable

so this is the apartment...now what did we do all the time....stay tuned

PART V NOW WE VISIT VENICE

i do not have good notes on what we did every day but surfice it to say that we walked and walked and walked....for the first few days we hardly used the boats at all and did not have a boat pass....we purchased 2 3 day boat passes for our last 3 days because we planned to go out to burano and murano islands and needed to get to the train station on our last day and wanted to go on the grand canal on boat number one from salute...the fee in the grande canal is now 5 euros per ticket and that is only good for 90 minutes....all the other boats are cheaper....is there any doubt that this is a tourist town???

after unpacking a bit we decided it would be best to knock off the grocery store....we took our 2 wheeled carriage and headed down the zaterre to billa....it was a medium sized store but had almost everything you would need and there is also a post office just next door...it is very close to the zaterre vav. boat stop and also just past the best gelateria in venice called Nico...we spent about 53 euro on supplies and the making for 2 breakfasts, one lunch and one dinner...the veggies were wonderfully fresh...there were lovely flowers, the meats and breads were fresh and inviting and the wine was cheap and there was beer, etc too....
by the time we returned with the carrige loaded to the top there was time just to unpack it and have a drink and then head out to an early dinner....remember we had been up for many hours.....we decided to eat at the local tratatoria called Ai Cugnai (S. Vio Accademia, 857; tel: 52 89 238) not far from the accademia museum on the main path to the guggenheim...we had eaten there 10 years earlier and it had been a good meal...we noticed quickly that prices had risen significantly when we looked at the menu....the restaurant is run by 3 sisters...we only saw two and we had the "crazy one" as our waitress....it is a small place and in every guide book....it was full of americans... we sharred a seafood antipasto...i had lasagna ( a very skimpy serving), karen had spagetti and clams...we follwed this with a cheese plate for bob and tiramisu for karen....we had a 1/2 litre of house white...the cost was 45 euro....i thought it expensive, but not outrageous....the food was ok but not excellent....we saw the waitress several times that week on the street and she always remembered us....back home and right to bed!!!

we were up early on sunday as our clocks were not as yet adjusted....we had a simple breakfast and showers...it was raining...headed out toward the accademia bridge...walked through the campo santo stefano, campo st angelo and continued on a bit and got lost for the first time....a man came out of his house for a smoke while we were looking at our map and gave us verbal directions towards st mark's square and lead us part of the way there....walked through st marks under the archades and continued along the waterfront for a short ways....there were tons of people out and about and we kept saying what would this be like in the tourist season---one word---horrible....
returned to st marks and by now the water had begun to rise...the whistles had not gone off however....the countessa had told us that when high water is expected the authorities sound several repeated loud whisltes or horns....we were in the back side of st marks square and heading back toward accademia when the water began to rise rapidly and we soon found ourselves trapped in 4 inches of water....we had to walk through it and were soaked through by the time we escaped....

the authorities have large wooden platforms all over venice which they keep stacked up during dry periods and when the water comes they are laid down for people to walk above the water...they are about 2.5 feet off the ground....they were not down as yet when we were in the square that day however...my favorite style new
SAS walkers will never be the same after that soaking....

we found our first pastry shop on the way home and bought some dessert for both lunch and dinner that day---8 euro...

for lunch karen heated up some prepared pastry shells which were filled with veggies from billa and a marvelous salad followed by our pastry....

we took a nap after lunch until about 4 pm....it was cold, raw and wet outside so a nap seemed like a good idea....
we decided to stay in for the rest of the nite...

we had some wine and chips and read over our travel literature and found a great lonely planet condensed guide on venice in the apartment "library"...it has the best map of venice we had found and fit easily in a man's back pocket....

about 7PM karen began to cook (bake) the prepared veal cordon blu that we had purchased at billa....it was accompanied by cheese gnochi, zucchini sauteed in butter with orange marmalade sauce and a lovely salad of field greens and radicchio...we finished the meal with tea and our remaing pastries....we had a good bottle of white wine with the meal...pinot grecio i think....she says the meal cost less than 20E...

up the next morning and i made us scrammbled eggs and sweet bread toast ...karen had brought three small bottles of stonewall kitchen (in york, maine) jams with her so we enjoyed them all week....also the european butter is so lovely on things...tea and coffee (there are at least 3 different types of coffee pots in the apartment)...she also brought some good coffee from home and tea bags for me....
we showered and were off to campo santa margarietta north of us in the dorsoduro section...we weaved our way around getting there through enchanting paths and alleys...we visited the church of san pantalon and viewed the lovely ceiling and marvelous paintings....we made our first stop, of many, at the Tonolo pastry shop on San Pantalon 3764, at the intersection with crosera....this is an amazing place...go there for moring or afternoon coffee (i had tea of hot chocloate, karen had cappuccino...we had to have apricott filled flaky pastry (me) and cream filled (crema) doughnut (like a jelly doughnut), still warm from the oven.....continued walking on toward rialto bridge....lots of shops in this area....we walked along the grand canal approaching the rialto bridge on the dorsoduro side...we crossed the bridge which is lined with tons of tourist shops....the canal banks have tons of restaurnats offering a view of rialto while eating at huge prices...the bridge is attractive and unusual because of its creamy stone color ... karen found her first public toilet in the area...exceptionally clean with a service charge of 1/2 euro (about $.65)....we walked back toward accademia bridge on the san marco side of the canal keeping the canal as close as we could....we crossed the accademia bridge and stopped at a bar near to Ai Cugnai where we had eaten our first nite.... the bar was to become my favorite lunch spot....it is Bar Da Gino...they were very friendly...english is spoken...there is limited table service...counter service and bar service....they serve both cold and warm sandwiches and drinks of all kinds....we sharred a table with some workmen and had a delicious sandwich lunch (warmed panini with eggplant, cheese and tomatoe plus onion, or ham and cheese with eggplant paste and tomatoe) we each had one sandwich, one bottle of water and a dessert each....14.7 euro...delicious....we would return many times....
went home for a pit stop and then went out to buy a few more groceries and got home three hours later....spent another 23E on groceries for breakfast stuff and one dinner....got lost and ended up finally at campo santa margurietta again....so what does that mean----coffee at tonolo again....all day we had seen lots of bright yellow mamossa being sold all around town...at tonolo they had a cake that resembled this flower so we bought one...the contessa later told us that this day was "woman's day" and that men were required to give their women yellow mamossa flowers....i failed but got the cake with one small sprig of mamossa sticking from its top center...

we managed to go over all those bridges with our cart containing eggs and never broke one....

the countessa left us a message to call....she came up to ask what she should do with the euro travellers checks i had sent her for a security deposit months ago....i was shocked that she had not cashed them....it was about 250 E...i had signed them and made them out to her...she wanted to give them back to me when we left if there was not damage...i waffled a bit and said lets wait and see.... i decided that night that i would have a problem negiotating them at home, even though i bought them from AAA...they will buy back unused checks..i told her that the next day and she took them to her bank and for a 3.61E service charge she cashed them...i paid the service charge....it was good i did that because i had a terrible time cashing one check upon my return at AAA because i had already signed it in both places---a long story....one florence bank reqiired an 8E service fee if i wanted to cash this 50E check...i told them they were crazy....

we had dinner in again that nite....we had chicken limone (boneless chicken breast cutlets sauteed with lemon and white wine and mushrooms), the rest of the cheese gnochi, harcourt verte (green beans to you foreigners), salad, white pinot blanc wine and our mimossa cake...it was delicious...it was sponge cake with layers of chocolate and whitecream filling and a soft, light, almost lite weight bright yellow coconut topping (it wasn't coconut however)... that's all for monday...

i will continue tomorrow with more...

Bob, I'm really enjoying your report of your stay in Venice. Just came back with my daughter Saturday and you have already answered some of the questions we brought home with us. We had wondered what all those low tables were doing stacked up in Piazza San Marco and along the waterfront, other than providing convenient seats on which to rest in the sun. Now I know they are there in case of flooding. We did not see any flooding while we were there, guess we were lucky.

I had also wondered why we were charged 5 euros for the vaporetto on the grand canal but only 3.50 coming back from Murano.

Sounds like a great place to stay, if I ever go back I'll keep it in mind. Looking forward to hearing about your restaurant choices. I'll be posting my own trip report, I hope, when I can figure out what time and what day it is.

Bob, this is a fantastic report. So very detailed, I could even imagine you walking along the narrow streets during the flood. Please continue as soon as you can.

Maybe I'll give that apartment a try soon. Sounds very nice.

Where are the pictures? If it was your intention to torture us by NOT posting them you DID succeed

Ingo

Bob, thanks, I felt I was right there with you.

my intention is only to torture former east germans!!! hahaha
only 6 rolls of film but none for the internet sorry

PART VI THE TALE GOES ON

i made another breakfast of scrambled eggs and toast for me and 2 soft boiled eggs for karen with toast and jam...good way to start the day...tea for me and coffee for karen...we alwasy ate at the kitchen table, even for dinners...we never used the large round table in the dining area, except as a desk and collection point for papers and books....we put a lovely starched cut-work white cloth on it the first day as if we were expecting guests for an elegant dinner.....

we boarded the vap. #1 at salute (in front of the church) for the ride up the grande canal to rialto... this leaves you off on the san marco side...we walked along the quai and crossed over the bridge and headed up to the produce and fish markets, which are located near-by.... we love markets and these are very nice ones, albeit not large....the fish was very fresh and the veggies and flowers looked inviting....we bought an onion and some potatoes...we checked out the restaurant Vini de Pinto, which is located right in back of the market on the little square...decided we would perhaps return there one day...we stopped into a small bar next door and had a coffee/tea/pastry along with market workers who were having wine mostly...
we wondered through the neighborhoods adajacent to this area, which are loaded with shops and restaurants...karen managed to find another pay toilet in the area....we went into a couple of churches....we finally ended up at the main train station which we had wanted to check out for our saturday departure....it is located right on the grande canal...we had purchased our 2nd class euro star train tickets from a travel agent near to our beloved tonolo coffee shop...the contessa suggested to purchase the tickets at a travel agent to avoid lines at the train station...the cost is the same...the tickets venice to florence were about 52E total for for seat reservations and both tickets...the ticket tells you what car number on the train and what seat number...far better than u.s. trains...we found the station to be well organized and easy to use...of course there is a pay toilet there as well....now we headed into the Cannaregio district...we visited the church next to the train station which is very ornate both inside and out...
we crossed the canale de cannaregio and walked along until we saw an alley posted as via Ghetto...we entered this ghetto area (the original ghetto area for europe...this was the former jewish section)...it was quite interesting and there are some moving memorials, especially to the sad events of the 1930's and 1940's...we emerged from the other side of the ghetto (it really is a little island) and headed toward san marco....on Strada Nova (a wide shopping street) we stopped in a bar called nava nita...we had some delicious grilled sandwiches and bottled water for our lunch (8.40 E)... we then went across the street to where???... a pastry shop and bought some maccaroons for our dessert...continued ambling toward accademia bridge...we went by the recently restorred Fenice Theatre (we were disappointed that nothing was on during our stay....we were looking for the restaurant/wine bar Vino Vino, which has been mentioned frequently on fodors and is prominent in chow venice...found it...closed on tuesdays...finally ended up by the gritti palace hotel and took the traghetto (this is a gondola rowed by two men that takes you across the canal--like a taxi--everyone stands up during the crossing---not always easy) fee .40E....this particular one drops you off almost at the end of our canal...we used it many times...it saves lots of time and climbing over bridges...the locals use them all the time...there are quite a few locations along the grande canal that have them...
back to the apartment to regroup and pit stop and then headed out for a walk along the zattere...it was quite a nice afternoon....we got a gelato at nico's and enjoyed it by the water's edge...there is a fair amount of activity along this wide canal....cut inland and walked along the san travaso canal...along this canal is the last remaining shop that makes and repairs gondolas.....it is quite recognizable as it is a dark brown wooden building (unusual to have wooden buildings in venice) right on the canal with a large courtyard in the front where the boats can be taken out of the water and worked on...continued along this canal and looked at possible restuarant choices for later... made a reservation for that nite....returned to the zattere and walked in the opposite direction as far as you can go...there is construction at the end so you can't go out to the point in back of the salute church (this is opposite st marks square)...we talked with a father and son team who were stripping the bottom of their boat along the zattere....the father was doing most of the work...the son was holding the hair dryer like torch to remove the paint...same the world over....
back to the apartment to figure out how we were going to go to Burano Island the next morning....
we had made a 7PM reservation (we found that we were having trouble staying awake at nite and needed to eat early each nite) at The Taverna San Trovaso...we had vegetable soup, karen then selected veal with lemon sauce and i had tortillini with ham and fresh peas...we sharred french fries and grilled eggplant as well...this was accompanied by a bottle of white wine (13E)...all was very good and the portions were a decent size---final cost 52E....we had a nice walk back to the apartment...karen did a little hand laundry....i had my clean laundry --no need to wash...we had the left over yellow cake for a dessert/bed time snack...

more later

PART VII VENICE CONTINUES

wedmesday AM...more eggs and toast for breakfast...off to Burano Island...this is the island of brightly colored houses which traditionally were inhabitted by fishermen....no longer...tourism has hit i fear...we decided that we would now purchase a 3 day boat pass...they are 22 Euro each for unlimited use, including the grande canal, on all boats except the alilguna and perhaps some other limited venue...we took boat #52 from the zattere stop over to F. Nova stop...this is on the northern end of the san marco island...it is a major stop and had three of four actual piers...from there we took the LN line to Burano...it stops in murano first and mazzorlso (sp?) island next to burrano....the ride was about 1/2 hour to 45 minutes from F novo stop...we walked around burrano admiring the lovely bright colored cottages in the town...there was some limited market activity in the main town area...there were lots of kids around...it was sunny and bright...town was neat and clean...lots of lace shops (did you say made in china???)---burrano has formerly been known as a place where hand made lace was produced by the fishermen's wives...alas that seems to have ended a long time ago...we stopped at a coffee/bar and had coffee and a burnt pastry...
we crossed the wooden bridge from burrano to mazzorto island...it is sparsely populated....we walked around a bit...picked up a colorful shell from the wash-up for a reminder....we have a large "bedford bowl" on the landing of our stairs which is filled with shells we have collected from all over the world...we boarded the boat there for the return trip to F novo....got the #51 boat back to zattere...all very easy....
we walked up the san traveso canal again and headed back to my favorite lunch spot, the bar da Gino...they remembered us and welcomed us back...we sat with some young students this time at a small round table...we had the gatto sandwich which is palma ham, boursin type cheese, eggplant sauce (3.80 E each) plus water...no dessert...
we were tired..
back to the apartment and the maid was still there cleaning up a bit...quick pit stop and then headed out to investigate "paper stores"---the famous italian marbleized papers...
took the trag. gondola across to the gritti palace...we relied upon treasurers and pleasurers (which is really more of a shopping guide than a tourist guide) to locate the major paper stores...we visited several...we were looking for an engagement present and for books for karen's journals...all the shops were in the san marco area that we visited...they are all over venice however...did our price and quality comparisons...bought nothing this trip...

stopped at vino vino again to check out the menu and prices...had a glass of pinot gricio while there...the food is not available until 7PM sharpe...more about that later...vino vino is the poor cousin of a much more up-scale restaurant which is located next door...it really is a wine bar that has limited selections of food prepared in the main restaurant kitchens next door and transported here to be served to you from a sort of buffet style/cafeteria style counter...it was early so we walked over to st marks square to see the lites....it is really magical in the subtle lighting....back to vino vino via karen's short cut...it worked...karen points out in our journal that i was always quite disorientated on san marco island and i was...

we waited about 10 minutes for the food to arrive....we took a table in the bar area and had another glass of wine...
the food arrived in various vessels...baking pans, stainless steel pots, etc...it was placed on the enclosed serving station by two waitstaff...when that was complete they asked you to approach the serving stand and make you selections and they wrote it down and then asked you to take a seat in the dining room...there was no rush this nite but by the time we were 1/2 finished our meal the tables were all nearly full...mostly italians, but quite a few tourists...the place is not big, maybe 20 tables for 2....at the most...our dinner ended up as 45.70 euro...we had one lasagne each, karen had white beans with oil and onions/cold dish (delicious), i had a dish of 1/2 eggplant and 1/2 cauliflower, plain veggies, we had a plate of meatballs, and we had 2 tiramisu plus a bottle of water (we had bottled or filtered water {carafe} at each meal---i have forgotten to mention this earlier...we enjoyed a bottle of Solve with this meal...
the food is delivered to you at your table along with breads....the parent restaurant is Antico Martini....a lovely relaxed meal done in a neat way...we enjoyed it...we walked back toward accademia bridge as the Tag. had stopped running for the nite....
during our walk back, in the area near to campo S. Maurizio, we were looking in shop windows...one shop turned out to be the well known paper shop called Legatoria Piazzesi---s. marco 2511...the propeietor was just moving from her apartment across the calle to the two side by side shops at 2511....she invited us in even though the shop was closed....she had perfect english...she was charming....turned out she was the widow of an american from chicago who died very young last year in costa rica....she spent quite a long time with us and didn't seem to be in any hurry....we loved our time with her....she told us that her great grand father was responsible for much of the modern italian paper production resurgance...all paper producers now copy her lead...she has a staff of 14 designers...her shop is the oldest paper production shop in venice....her work is lovely...we purchased a waste paper basket for our engagement gift (square collapseable) made of lovely papers with grograin ribbon like borders....the construction was far superior to all the others we had seen---cost 60E (most of the regular ones we had seen were 41E)....
lunch is ready...more later

Bob, so far we've eaten at two of the same restaurants last week, Vino Vino and San Trovaso. Surprised we didn't run into you.

PART VII CONT...

delicious homemade lentel and tomatoe soup and warm roll....where do people get the idea that food is a big part of our lives???

anyways...the paper store...karen eyed a beauriful italian paper and leather bound book on the shelf...we looked at it...the leather binding was a beautiful rich green, the italian style paper covering was shades of green and there were leather corners on the book...no we don't want to spend that much...how about something cheaper....we did see other lined page books but kept coming back to that one...the talk went on to other things with the shop owner---venice restroation, death of her husband under strange circumstances in costa rica, her spoiled son living at university with too much trust fund money from his deceased american grandmother, etc...but back to the book...the simpler books were 13E so we decided we could have one of those...the lovely green book was 60E...really too much money i thought for a journal of trips...so she proposed how about both books for 70E...it must have been the wine and i said ok...i thought it was a bargain---hardly with a 3 euro savings...anyways we love them both....i have proposed that we save the green book for 2 years when we hope to do an around the world flight with many stops to celebrate our retirements (62)....i think that would be fitting, don't you?? home and a peaceful sleep....


thursday march 11.....late start to another rainy day...i spent one hour doing some planning for the day...we walked over to salute stop for the #1 and rode up to the S. Toma stop...we walked through the neighborhood and quickly made it to Tonolo---coffee/hot chocolate and pastry---this time we could have more because we had not had breakfast at the house....we also purchased some pastry for later...
started to rain harder....back to the boat at S. Toma (really the closest stop to tonolo....took the #1 to S. Stae....trying to find a restaurant that we had seen earlier and thought would be good for our last nite...finally found it...it is Vecio Frittolin located on calle regina (best stop is actually rialto stop---it is actually in back of the fish market several blocks...we did not end up going there but it looked very nice with a more interesting menu...it was now raining even harder so we worked our way back to Trat. vini de pinto, the restaurant adajacent to the fish market....nice lunch...i had fried shrimp/scampi and french fries--delicious..very little coating, just mostly quickly fried shrimp...karen had pasta with mushrooms and shrimp in a garlic cream sauce...30.70E---good but not cheap for a lunch....

walked over rialto and got the #82 boat around the back side of dorsoduro and got off at S. Basillio which really is directly in front of the post office and the billa store...bought some chicken to go with some beans we had bought, plus zuccini and our potatoes from the market...we did this because it was so rainy and cold and it would be easier to eat in...ate around 7 with some cold wine and went to bed early after some reading about florence...that nite we saw on the TV about the bombing in madrid...it was in italian so we could only translate part of it...we knew it was big news however...
ate our pastry from tonolo which escpaed the rain, because of their nice packaging...we had also bought some easter foil covered chocolate fish for the grandchildren at tonolo...different than our easter candy...

friday--our last full day in venice

S C I O P E R O

do you know what that means?? for many it means a day of vacation partially ruined...for us it ment a day of intrigue and travel ingeniuity...

it means that the boats are all on strike for 24 hours...all boats except the alilguna and as we found out some limited point to point boats...we walked over to salute to take the #1 ...waited waited and nothing...there was an old italian man waiting too...no boats in site...we finally read part of a posting in italian on the wall...looked like a strike...along came a younger italian woman who was also unaware and she confirmed that a strike was in progress after reading the posting...change in plans then...we were to have gone to murano that day---guess we need to change??? this was especially frustrating as this was a beautiful warm sunny day....as it turns out these strikes happen with little warning about 3 times per month....reminded us of the time many years ago when we were in england during a bread strike---now that's scary....
we walked up to tonolo and had our breakfast...good apetite this time--more than usual....bought a dessert for that nite...we walked back home ending up on the zattere...we could see a boat crossing this canal to and from zattere and the island across...we wanted to go over to the bell tower at s. georgio which looks across at st marks square--there is a 3E eleavtor to the top///
we went home and droped off our stuff and headed for one last time to bar da gino for lunch...12.40 for our usual lunch...back to zattere and boarded the boat to Palanca...we walked the waterfront there....similar to and across from zattere...we ended up at the cipriani hotel---where karen thought she should be staying instead of a lowly apartment in dorsoduro....they were closed for the season....we walked around until they sort of through us out in a genteel way...we noticed that there was a boat moving along this side of the canal which stopped at s. georgio and then went on to st mark's sq and then did the return trip so we took it to s. georgio...success!!!! we went up the tower after looking in the church (not too interesting)...the view was great and i took some pictures...back on the boat and headed over to S. Zaccaria and walked from there to F. novo where we thought we could get a boat to murano--success...we had out smarted them..

will continue tonight

Thanks for the report Bob. I'm lovin' it! I'll print it out and put it in my "when I finally make it to Venice" folder.

David

PART VIII THE END OF VENICE---FINALLY

i see one small mistake...the church we visited on friday was st. georgio Maggiore...

also i forgot to mention that on day two in venice i purchased two pieces of cheese from large wheels at a local deli...one was a very strong asiago and the other was also a strong cheese but of the parmesian variety....i nursed them all week and ate the tale end of both on the train on the way to florence...i am a cheese nut so this was a real treat....each was about 16E a kilogram (2.2 pounds)...that quality would be twice that price in the usa...

(sp) means spelling????

so we arrived finally at F nova...we found that indeed we could take the boat to murrano....so on we jumped...it only went to one murano stop...we walked the "main street" and it was largely what we had anticipated---very touristy...we did not even go into one store....some were closed because of the boat strike...not many people around...we visited a couple of churches, including the one with the large bones behind the alter....now how to get back...go the same way or see if there was something else....we saw an alilaguna boat come to the museo stop so we jumped on....were not asked to pay so we did not volunteer either....it was the trimph of my trip...i got away with 10E---that is after they have ripped me off all week in this city!!!!....we took the boat to st marks...we walked through the square one last time and took the trag. across to near our canal....we had not made our reservation for dinner so we stopped by Ristorante Cantinone Storico on san vio canal...it is over about 2 canals from ours...the contessa had said it is one of her favorites and would be about 60E for a full dinner for 2...we went home and did some packing and returned about 7:30 for our reservation---the restaurant was almost empty...they were very friendly as they had been when we made the reservation...the owner waited on us...he was very pleasant and gave us some instructions about his menu...i had an italian cold cut platter with olives, karen had pasta with lagoon shrimps with castore artichokes (special at this time of year and very sweet); i then had chicken chachatorre (sp), a vegetable plate and french fries; karen had a special fish soup which was loaded with all kinds of fish and crustations...the house wine was the best we had had---a white called Pino Gritio (karen's spelling don't know if it is correct)---there was a slight effervesance to it ( i likened it to green wine in portugal)...the portions were all a nice size...service was excellent....we had dessert at home...all this came at a price--- 90E...the bill just came and the conversion was $115. this seemed expensive but when you compare it to a quality meal in boston it is really average...the food was excellent...


DEPARTURE DAY

the contessa had informed us earlier that we should plan to leave the apartment by 9AM as another group was coming and the maids needed full access for cleaning, etc...we could store our stuff if we wished to stay in town for the day....as our train was booked for 10:30AM, i had asked her if she could see us at 8:45 for the final accounting...this was fine with her...

we got up about 6:30, had breakfast and made our sandwiches for the train...we had bought, tomatoe, seeded dark rolls, palma ham and lettuce...we took our showers and packed the remaing things in our bags and put them by the door. she arrived promptly at 8:45...she had read the meters on her way up...i owed an additional 53E which we thought quite reasonable...she returned my deposit money and we were all set...she presented us with a pair of pink candles which she had made with a nice inscription on them...this was a nice parting gesture...we bid our farewells...i asked her if she minded if i mentioned her palazzatto on fodors and she smiled and said no of course not, do it...we left the house at exactly 9 and got to the train station at 9:45...we took #1 from salute to the train station through the grande canal....we stood next to a couple on the boat from nearby norwell, MA who were also leaving to pick-up a car at roma for a tuscan drive holiday...the sign in the station directed us to platform 6 and at 10:20 our train arrived...this was a continuation of a euro star trip which ended in rome....we found our seats easily and there is plenty of room for luggage above or behind your seats...the train filled up in the next stop or two...we stopped about 4 times between venice and florence...the service was puncutual (sp)...we had seats 35 & 36 which were both window seats...

the countryside wizzed by....by the time we got to bologna there was quite a bit of snow on the ground...not so in florence however...train time about 3 hours...

to be continued

I am enjoying your report thoroughly, we leave in 3 weeks for Venice/Florence/Tuscany, our first trip to Italy. Have made notes on the restaurants etc. in Venice, thank you! Can't wait to hear about Florence. Carry on...

PART IX FOUR DAYS IN FLORENCE

our B&B, DeiMori, had sent us exact directions to get to them from both airport and train station...it was about a 10-15 minute walk from the train station so we decided that would be easy with the rollies and after venice and its bridges anything is easy...we found it very easily....the key is that they are located beside the American Express office...two doors to the right of Amex is #12 Via Dante Alighieri...this is a building that is at least 5 stories...the buildings in florence are very odd, with add ons in front, beside, on top and every which way...we had been warned that there were 47 steps to the front door of the B&B from the street...the only negetive...we soon learned to deal with it...
the location is mid way between the duomo and piazza della signoria...this makes it flat in the middle of everything a tourist could want!!!

we rang the doorbell and announced ourselves....we were greeted and asked to come upstairs...the hosts are an italian man of about 40+ and his partner an englishman of 50+...they have owned this since 1996...they gave assistance with the bags on the stairs once we were up about 1/2 way...they would have helped all the way but i said i thought we could do it....wrong....
immediately upon entering the lobby of the B&B we knew we had made a good decision...the room was pleasant and there were beautiful flowers all around...we were asked to sit on the sofa and they would go over a few things...the english guy (peter) did our run through...it, like the contessa, was very thorough...they took our passports for the standard reporting to the police...
one thing led to another and the subject of restaurants came up and they told us to forget anything we had read and they would direct us to the kind of place we wanted to go, but out of the glare of the tourist...he quizzed us about what we liked and what level of dining we wanted and immediately he had a grasp on our desires...we thought we will try them out and see....leave it here by saying that each place they sent us was better than the one before and each was above excellent....

they referred to the stairs as: "47 charming stairs"...i would not go that far...old people could not stay here!!!


next our room....we were in room number 1...there are only 5, plus they have 6 on a lower floor, which is smaller in every way...we had indicated twin beds, which we received...they were small but adequate...the room was small also but perfectly adequate...the bath was very small also but also adequate...as a very big man it presented some problems for me, but i got around these issues...not all rooms have a private bath....ours did....

after unpacking we went out for an ice cream...they clain the best in florence is on their street...and indeed it is very good....
we strolled over to ponte de vecchio and over to the duomo and we did some window shopping of which there is plenty all through-out this area....largely this area is a limited traffic area and there are no cars....

karen had never been to florence and i was last there 39 years ago....

peter suggested that we go to Trattoria Anita for dinner...it specializes in tuscan foods....it is at via vinegia 16/r...it is hidden and we would have not found it without directions...it was excellent and just our style....we split a taggetelli with mushrooms...i then had cappacio and salad...karen had oscobusco and salad...we enjoyed water and 1/2 L of house white...this was followed by two desserts, one each...price 37E...more food than venice, better quality and less price....success....
WE WILL FOLLOW THEIR ADVICE ON RESTAURANTS

we walked around a bit more to get aquainted with the neighborhood...then bed....

on sunday we had their simple continental breakfast in the lobby...there is also a two seat room off the lobby where you can sit and a small balcony (the smoking area) where you can be outside, also off the lobby...there is no smoking in the B&B itself....
we decided that since it is a beautiful day that we would walk across the arno river and hike up to the michaelangelo overlook...it was a perfect day for this...the view was great....an oriental bride and groom were up there having their pictures taken overlooking the city....karen commented that the photographer put them through hell with strange poses, etc...i took some pictures of them too...
we walked back down the hill and crossed the next bridge down--ponte niccolo...there was a small flea market on the far side and we looked in there....also a pay w/c
from there we headed to the s. croce church and plaza area....mass was still going on so we were kept at the back of the church and then all tourists were asked to leave as mass was over and the church was closing for lunch...

i have not said it before, but i decided early on that i would refuse to pay to enter churches on this trip....i don't mind a euro or so, but many were asking up to 8E and this is far too much...i know...we would miss things...but if you have been in as many churches as we have been, you really would not miss a few more....and besides there are plenty of free ones....ok so i'm cheap...karen has told me that for the last 25 years....

we looked at a few of the leather places around s. croce...this is the main leather area....many were what we refer to as "bus stop" places....

we stopped for lunch at Pallottino..we had lasagne, salad and water and it was 30.25E...seemed quite expensive for a limited amount of food...it was good...service was spotty...i don't seem to remember where it was except that it is next door to the most famous of florences' gelato shops....found it--- it is via isola delle stinche 1r....they are both in many of the guide books...back to the B&B

back out again and headed toward s. marco church...there is a mummy in one of the display cases which might shock you a bit...the church is attractive..

hit the internet to see what was going on and check e-mail...we had done this just once in venice...

back to the B&B again, window shopping all the way...had a drink in the room...they offer a fridge in the hallway with water, tonic, wine and champagne at reasonable prices...

peter sent us to Trattoria Baldovino---via san giuseppe 22r...they also have a wine bar at #18r...this again was an excellent choice...there were plenty of americans here however...

I SHOULD STOP HERE BRIEFLY AND EXPLAIN THAT FLORENCE IS OVERRUN WITH AMERICANS...THERE ARE 37 AMERICAN UNIVERSITY PROGRAMS IN FLORENCE...THIS MEANS PLENTY OF KIDS--spoiled kids i might add...IT IS ALSO A TIME WHEN PARENTS WERE VISITING SO THERE WERE TONS OF TOURISTS, PLUS STUDENTS, PLUS FAMILY AND FRIENDS AROUND....YOU WOULD ALMOST THINK YOU WERE IN ANY AMERICAN CITY IF YOU DID NOT LOOK AROUND AT THE BUILDINGS....

so baldovino....a charming place...we had an outstanding waiter...the place was full..the food excellent...it is located on the street that runs down the left side of the s. croce church....we split a misto sottio and a fusille with zuchini and cheese...then we split a pork tendeloin in tarrigon sauce...white wine and water of course....i had an apple cake for dessert which was exellent and karen had a pear tart...we sharred a vin santo--a sweet dessert wine (we did not like it...we will stick to our ice wine)..the bill was 53.80E...an excellent meal...

an american/asian couple were seated next to us...he is a doctor in california and karen enjoyed talking shop with him....we talked to them throughout the meal...
stumbled home and up the charming 47 steps...

monday bloomed bright and sunny again...we were in shrit sleeves practically now...breakfast out front....we then headed out to the santo spirito section of town....we had a walking tour from a pamphlet that we had picked up...it started roughly in front of the pitti palace...roughly the walk was the triangle formed by the streets across from the palace...the area is full of antique stores, old palaces and restoration shops, many of which that have windows that you can view various restoration projects going on: books, furniture, picture frames, etc...
at one doorway we were watching a bookbinder doing his thing...he motioned us to come in so we did...he was absolutely charming and spent almost an hour with us...he introduced his trade to us and showed us his work, including a 15thC book that he was about to start to restore...he is enrico gianorini at deiveluti #29...his family has been in the paper and book business for years...his brother and daughter run the paper/book shop opposite the petti palace today...he moved on about 3 years ago to operate solo on high quality restorations....this stop was one of the highlights of our trip, in my opinion....
we stopped for a sandwich at cafe s. trinta on via maggio 2r...quite tasty...this is a great area to wonder in....we purchased a small frammed lithograph at l'ippogrifo stamp d'art at via s. spirito #5...they have great art all done on the property....walked along the river for a while and then along borgo jacopo, another lovely street...
back to the B&B--pit stop

down onto the street again and some more ice cream....we headed off to the museum of the duomo, just in back of it...a fabulous new wing really displays "spare parts" beautifully...this is where the panels of the original baptistry doors are now housed that were washed off in the 1986 flood....as well as other damaged parts of the duomo...lovely light in the museum....karen then visited the baptistry...i stayed outside...
we spent the net 2-3 hours just wandering the streets...ended up at s. croce church again and visited the leather school located in church buildings in the garden behind the church...they were closing so we only had a few minutes...looked like very good stuff..we thought we would return the next day but it never happened...
walked back to the B&B and almost died waling up the steps this time....

headed out after an hour of relaxation for dinner at Trattoria Bordino at via stracciatella 9r...this is behind the church just over the river on the left after crossing the ponte vecchio....the place is the most attractive place we had eaten in in italy...we ordered a florentine steak for two (28E)...this was preceeded by a coldcut and crostini plate..with it we had a special spinich and garlic dish and french fries....also a house green salad to share...no dessert...the best meal of the trip...wine and water of course....55E...a steal...
the steak was carved at our table...it was still mooing and karen loved that...
back to the B&B

can't write anymore...will finish up in the am....

OH MY GOD, AMERICANS! DISGUSTING!

PART X THE END OF THE TRIP

we had a bit of a late start as i had had a stomach problem for the last 36 hours and i had not slept well that nite...all that cheese, ice cream and fat...so karen says..

we had our continental breakfast and then headed out to the central market...it was very clean and almost everything was behind glass counters...i guess the PC police have been there....

took some coffee and our last pastry at a near-by bar....we will miss this daily experience...
we found our way back by the train station to the Officina Profumo--Farmaceutica di S. Maria Novella, a much touted pharmacy on the fodors site....it is near to the s. maria novella church at via dell scala 16...i could not believe the raves on fodors so i thought karen should check it out.... she is a clinique queen but there is always hope that she will find something else that she likes...
this place is fantastic....not only the products, which can best be described as natural and herbal, but the building inside is a marvel....i'm not going to say anymore...go look for yourselves....their web-site is: www.smnovella.it
the products: in the main room there are large old fashioned bookcases which are full of product and there are salespeople very willing and able to help and advise....we bought some lovely soaps and karen bought some suntan lotion (18E) and some wrinkle oil for around the eyes (30E), which she now says she loves and has already asked a friend to get more for her when she is in florence next month....
we left before we had to mortgage the house...

walked back by the church, but they have a stiff entrance fee so we passed...remember my rule...
suzanne, the "helper" at the B&B (she is from NYC)---the owners had left for vacation in the maldives----had suggested a store that sells oils and balsamic...we found it at via dei federighi 31r....a small gourmet grocery store....the name is the la botteha della prutta...we purchased some balsamic for us and some for my sister as part of her birthday present next month....

we ambled on and stopped at the cafe americani for a delicious sandwich...don't have the address but it is a good place...from the bottega it is in the direction of republic square...
we next headed for the former "straw market" which is now called the new market...it is a raised platform with columns and a roof which has loads of shopping carts selling tourist items...don't miss the famous boar in the back---rub his nose...
karen had seen a straw and leather summer pocketbook (28E after some bargaining) there earlier and she wanted to get it...she also bought two pairs of unlined leather gloves (red and black--15E each after limited bargaining)

next...i could not hold off or stall anymore...we went to the uffizi gallery(perhaps europe's best art museum????)...waited about 1/2 hour to get in---really quite cheap at 6.50E each...make reservations during busy times...peter had told us we did not need them...the reservation line was longer than the regular non-reservation line that day...

first allow me to say that i love art...but i do not really like the religious art and art of this period...this is a huge place that has been a museum for a couple of centuries...the building is on the river and is not very interesting in itself, but some of the ceilings are magnificent...the art...well lets say i've been there, done that....not one piece did i like and there are hundreds of peices...lots of stairs to climb in this museum...there is limited eleavtor access for people needing assistance...

this was the best day weatherwise...only shirtsleeves needed...we walked over again by the duomo and i took some additional pictures...we went to signoria sq and had a delicious hot chocolate (7.5E each if you sit down outside---cheaper if you stand inside) at Rivorie...this is a lovely place with great people and square watching...we sat for maybe 30 minutes or so....make sure you do this...
walked around the neighborhood window shopping some more...on via corso we happened on a small church that was having an organ concert so we sat inside and listened...the church was quite decorative as well...finally the cold and dampness got to us so we left...

back to the B&B which was really just around the corner...sat out on the balcony for a while listening to the bells and watching as twighlight approached including one flying bat...

we had a reservation at Diladdarno at via dei serragli 108r for our last dinner...it was quite a walk on the other side of the river, but i think we went the long way....this is a simple place with good food...suzanne had suggested that we have the special pasta stuffed with cheese in an artichoke sauce...but we split a crued beef and arrugila and parm. cheese carpaccio first...then we had the pasta which was about the best pasta we had had on the trip, followed by 2 ossobusco (could really have had only one) and white beans and garlic in oil plus an order of spinach, plus wine and water, plus we split one dessert...this was a delicious dinner and end to our trip...the bill was 59E including a special tip for the very pleasant waitress...
we had a nice walk back through the piazza republic with its merry go round....no i didn't go on it but i wanted to....bed by 10:30

last day....our plane was from the tiny florence airport at 1:05PM so we had a comfortable time getting organized...went out and quickly purchased some lovely florence printed note cards for karen---last bit of window shopping....tried to cash a 50E trav. check that i had been carting around for a couple of years...bank wanted to charge me 8E as a fee....as a former banker i would not pay the fee....see i am cheap...

suzanne called us a taxi and it arrived quickly...we slid the suitcases down the "charming 47 steps" for the last time---next time we are bringing only a knap sack....off to the airport...the taxi driver was very friendly and helpful with the bags...fare was about 17E with the extra charge for the bags (3 or so euro) and i gave him a 20...we were booked on city jet which operates as an air france flight...we had a terrible sandwich in the limited service bar (no restaurant) on the upper floor of the airport and waited for the plane to arrive...the food was amazingly inexpensive for airport food...

boarding was easy and it was a bus gate again...we are really spoiled in the usa with direct boarding at almost every airport...we took off quite late...there was an additional 25 minute delay after boarding...there was a family of 5 from the usa who were concerned about the charles de gaulle connection and the father went up front to check with the staff as we had only a 55 minute connection time allotted...they were on our same boston bound air france connecting flight...i joined him at the end of the discussion....the pilot came out and assurred us that it would probably be ok....if we were to be late they would get us a bus and with 7 total passengers they would hold the boston flight---ya?? i had planned that there might be a problem so i was not really concerned....i have never had a connecting inter-europe flight that really went on time...i usually leave lots of time....
in any case the pilot made up all the lost time....we flew over the beautiful snow capped alps...it was a very clear day...we arrived right on time...it was a long walk from term. e to f or visa versa...even though they are side by side...in the past we had always taken a transfer bus at charles de gaulle...but that is gone...there were 2 stops for security checks as well, although they were very quick stops....we were about the last to board...i refused to run although karen was anxious to get on that flight....i thought a nite in paris might be fun...??
in any case we made it...again we had an issue with changed seats...we asked at boarding in paris for a window seat for karen and the attendant went into the computer and said all window seats were taken....lie....our section of the plane was not even 1/2 full and there were plenty of seats...karen grabbed a window seat...
nice flight on this 777...good food actually...
as we approached boston the captain told us that we would have to circle for about 25 minutes...it was snowing....we did and then we landed with no problems...
next issue...we got to the gate and they were de-icing another plane...that took about 40 minutes longer...there were now 4 additional international arriving flights lined up in back of us....at least we were first..
called hedley as soon as we got into the customs hall (no cells allowed in immigration or customs area???) he was glad to hear from karen as he had already waited over an hour...in boston air france does not update their arrival times so all he could get was a recording made hours before...not a good system...
we were home in no time....its always so pleasant when you enter your own house and then when you hit your own bed.....

END OF SAGA....

I KNOW THAT THIS HAS FAR TOO MUCH IN TERMS OF DETAIL, BUT I WANTED TO HEAD OFF AS MANY QUESTIONS AS I COULD...

STAND-BY WE HAVE A 30 DAY THAILAND AND BALI TRIP COMMENCING ON MAY 22...

i will gladly accept any questions which you might have.....we loved both places we stayed at, and in fact are already planning on a tuscan trip to the apartment that our florence hosts have at their counrty house, north of florence...venice was fabulous---no wonder it is so popular...
the food and restaurants were all middle of the road places and this is what we prefer...they were all excellent without exception...air france was great, alitalia---well....

thanks for listening....

bob and karen kimball
needham, ma usa

Bob, once again, salute!

With your careful book-keeping, you probably know the answer to: on average, your food cost per day? (I realize you self-catered sometimes.)

Re the American students in Florence - I don't blame you being envious, I would have loved to have taken such a course. One such program used our hotel in Florence, the kids were very quiet and polite, so I hope you yourselves didn't have a bad experience with any students.

no bad experiences with the kids at all...they are noisy and that's fine...hearing them beggin for money from parents on cell phones walking along the street gets old however..food costs: i guess you need to plan on 50 e for dinner most days to have a decent meal with local wine...perhaps 12-15E for a sandwich lunch and maybe 8-10E for a stand-up simple breakfast...add another 10 E for ice cream/coffees etc...this is pretty basic and mid-level at best...i'm sure it can be done much cheaper and of course always for more if you wish...

this is for florence and venice only...venice being quite a bit more, maybe as much as 30%

Thank you, I'll add those figures into my notes. You are sure right about the variation: I've read how some (generally students) survive on just € 20 per day each and I've also just read one person's report where they spent an average of €200 on dinner in Venice. Admittedly the latter were using upscale restaurants, because otherwise, I'd join those kids begging on the phone....

Bob, the count of restaurants we ate at that you did in Venice is now up to three. Loved Cantinone Storico, that was our first meal in Venice. I see that you were actually there right before us and left the day we arrived, so we didn't run into you at dinner.

In Venice, wandering just a bit away from the tourist areas will lower your dining costs significantly--1/3 more reduction for much better food and service.

rufus...as you know it is very difficult to get away from the tourist areas as all of venice is now a tourist area...i'm not sure that there is a 30% reduction for the same quality...??

i neglected to add that the cost of the florence B&B was 110 euro per nite...they gave us a 5% discount for paying cash...i see that they sometimes offer additional discounts during quiet periods...is there such a thing in florence....

contact me directly with any questions:

rhkkmk@aol.com

put venice in the subject slot or i will delete you...

rhkkmk--not all of Venice is overrun with tourists. Most, especially the daytripper herds, concentrate in a relatively small area. Actually, food quality generally improves as you walk away from the most heavily touristed areas.

TTT

Author: Reeder
Date: 05/02/2004, 02:51 pm
Message: Bob:
I would very much like to learn more about your trip to Thailand etc. We are not sure of our next destination and your ideas sound terrific. Please let me know when and where your report is to appear. Thanks Helen



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Author: Reeder
Date: 05/02/2004, 04:47 pm
Message: Bob:
Just to let you know I did look up your report on Italy Sojourn, printed it out!!! and enjoyed it immensely!! You write stream of conscious style and it is so enjoyable!! It takes time and yet is clearly an effort of love!! Happy Birthday by the way to you both. I am "almost" there but not quite and not planning to observe any more birthdays as a result. Our next trip is a long 5 day weekend to the Cape this month where we met 35 years ago this summer so it is special to us. Somehow being there sitting in catatonic state staring at the ocean renews my soul. Happy traveling! H



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