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Two Week Big Fat Family Vacation to Greece

Two Week Big Fat Family Vacation to Greece

Old Jul 20th, 2014, 11:22 AM
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Two Week Big Fat Family Vacation to Greece

GREECE TRIP REPORT
2014


Every time I begin to plan a trip, it is like an unknown puzzle and sometimes it’s hard to know where to start. For some reason, Greece seemed a little harder than some trips to get a handle on, but I can always rely on great advice found here on this site to begin the framework and then filling in the gaps. Ultimately, this was a trip that literally exceeded all of our expectations – I have your trip reports and input to thank for shaping our puzzle that turned out to be a truly magical adventure!

The players were the same as on our previous family vacations, but we are all a little older: my DH (Mario – named this on our first European vacation to Italy in 2007), myself and two sons The Scholar (now 19 and just finished his freshman year of college) and Lunatic Maximus (now almost 16 and just finished his freshman year of high school). Our previous adventures have taken us to Italy, England/Scotland and Germany/Austria/Czech Republic - I feel so fortunate to have had these wonderful trips and priceless memories with my family and I hope this little report will help you and encourage you as you are putting together your family adventures! This trip was fun, romantic, educational and reconnected us beautifully as a family.

Day One: Athens

Mario and The Scholar arrive a few days before myself and Lunatic Maximus. The Lunatic and I will be joining them from a group French class trip to France and I will post a trip report on that portion of the trip under a separate thread.

Upon their arrival into Athens from the United States via British Airways through London, their luggage does not join them. After waiting in a line and filling out paperwork for hours, they are not sure that their car will be waiting for them – but God bless him, George is there and has not moved. We cannot recommend this car service enough:

George's Taxi www.taxigreece.com

He also picks Lunatic and I when we arrive – we have an easy flight in from Geneva. George is charming, fun and I am so glad he didn’t leave after my husband was so late exiting the airport. We are very grateful.

Our family meets up in the afternoon at our lovely hotel:

King George Athens
www.kinggeorgeathens.com

I cannot say enough nice things about this hotel! If this hotel is at all on your radar, book it. Fortunately for us, we had an enormous amount of Starwood Points. The hotel, the staff, the restaurants, the view, the location – perfect! The hotel is simply magical!

After getting cleaned up and caught up, we meet up with some friends that are also on a family vacation and we have one day that overlaps in Athens. We take cabs into the Plaka (later find out this is totally walkable) and meet them at the Taverna Acropolis at the base of the Acropolis:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...ns_Attica.html

They are a family of 5 – we are a family of 4 – we have a huge table sitting out under the trees, with ancient ruins (the Roman Agora) right beside us and looking straight up at the beautifully lit Acropolis – we are officially in Greece! We enjoy grilled feta, fresh salads, various Greek dishes and wine. The staff is friendly, the food fantastic, they bring out lovely desserts as a courtesy, the atmosphere is casual, relaxing and lovely. This is a perfect welcome to Greece!

Day Two: Athens

Jet lag has hit Mario and the Scholar hard today and they are late to rise. We all meet up on the 7th floor of the King George hotel for the most beautiful breakfast buffet and views of Athens. Wow! The Acropolis sits right in front of us and we can see all the way to the sea. The service and food is fantastic – it is a special way to begin the day!

Our guide: Vicky Papadimitriou ([email protected] or www.topostravel.com) – meets us at our hotel and I feel like I am with one of the characters of “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” – she is fantastic, hysterical, and knowledgeable – she is the perfect guide! She gives us several choices to spend our day – we decide to first join her in her car to drive around the city. She takes us from site to site – the Temple of Zeus, the old Olympic stadium, walk through the Plaka – sit for a rest and enjoy some lovely Greek foods and end our day walking past Mars Hill, where Paul preached Christianity for the first time in Athens, up the steps to the Acropolis where we marvel at the Parthenon and other classical temples. It is a full, but lovely and exciting day and Vicky brings the city and all its history to life! She is fantastic! She leaves us at the Parthenon and we walk around this area and take pictures for quite some time.

In hind sight, I wish I would have communicated a bit more with Vicky before leaving on our trip. She is full of ideas, knowledge and contacts – I think she is a wealth of information for any traveler to Greece!

We wind our way through the streets, in and out of a few shops, back to our hotel. My boys are hot and tired. They hit the spa to relax – they ask if they can pick up a sandwich and call it an early night. Mario and I decide to walk a few blocks to a very charming restaurant, 2Mazi (www.2mazi.gr), and have a lovely, romantic, tranquil dinner in the restaurant’s courtyard. We enjoy the tasting menu and a few drinks – the dinner and the atmosphere are perfect! This is a charming ending to a busy day!
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Old Jul 20th, 2014, 01:40 PM
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Thanks for providing links, very helpful.
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Old Jul 21st, 2014, 12:04 PM
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Day Three: Athens

Today, we all seem to hit our stride. Once again, we enjoy a gorgeous breakfast on the 7th floor with the gorgeous view of the Acropolis. As you look to the left, you can see the President’s home and the changing of the guard. One morning, there is a little parade ceremony along with the changing of the guard and then another morning there are protesters – lots to see from the 7th floor balcony. Each morning and each evening, we check on our baggage – it seems that no one knows where it is. The British Airways website says there was an IT problem in Terminal 5 of Heathrow on that date and it just says location of luggage unknown – keep checking back. At this point, we are not hopeful that we will ever see the luggage again. Fortunately, all 3 of my fellas wear the same size and they are all wearing Lunatic Maximus’ clothing.

After breakfast, we make our way to the Acropolis Museum – we don’t use a guide for the visit – I’m sure we would have learned more if we did – but we enjoy it tremendously. My sons love museums and don’t like to be hurried through them and this museum is spectacular! We know we are leaving Athens tomorrow, so we spend some time shopping for the two guys without luggage during the afternoon. They are delighted with their European purchases!

Before dinner, Mario and I walk next door to the Grande Bretagne Hotel
(www.grandebretagne.gr) for a drink at their rooftop garden. The views are gorgeous and the atmosphere is sophisticated and beautiful. It is a beautiful way to bask in our last evening in Athens!

For dinner, we find our way back to the Plaka to a charming outdoor table at O Platanos (http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...ns_Attica.html) – we sit outside under the stars and the plane tree – we have simple Greek food, delightful service and have enjoyed Athens tremendously. We have encountered lovely, helpful people and have marveled at the ancient sites. We stroll back to the hotel, never tiring of seeing the Acropolis all lit up. These are the nights that make a trip like this so worthwhile – we are all sharing a lovely adventure, the worries and stress of our lives are an ocean away, and we just enjoy how wonderful it is to be together! We’re off to a great start on our Greek adventure!

As we walk back into the Hotel George, the staff informs us that British Airways has made contact with them and our luggage will arrive at 3 am – we are delighted that it will arrive before we continue on our journey tomorrow morning.


Day Four Athens to Delphi

As soon as we awake, we call down for our lost baggage to be delivered. Mario and The Scholar are delighted to be reunited with their luggage! We enjoy one more decadent breakfast on the 7th floor and take endless pictures of the Acropolis – gorgeous! We say farewell to the servers and the staff who have spoiled us the last few days – they have lamented with us over the loss of our luggage, have made wonderful recommendations to us and have been so gracious. The entire experience at the Hotel George has been wonderful!

I found on this site, the recommendation for Avanti (Swift) Rental Car Agency ([email protected]) – from the US, I arranged a car to be delivered to us at the Hotel George. Their representative arrives like clock work with our Citroen Jumpy – large enough for the four of us and all of our luggage. He drives us out of the city, which is very helpful, and gets us to the main road on the way out of Athens. The vehicle is a few years old and has some miles on it, but it is large enough for all of us and serves us well. We brought with us our own GPS.

Mario is driving, The Scholar is riding shotgun, Lunatic and I are in the backseat. I am flipping through my Greece guidebook and tell Mario that I think this road will take us near the Byzantine monastery, Osios Loukas. We decide to venture out to find it on the way to Delphi – oh and what a jewel it is. It is a brief detour off the main road, down a little two lane road to the monastery – if you find yourself driving from Athens to Delphi, this is a fantastic little stop. No photos or descriptions seem to do this place justice. We are in awe of the frescos and mosaics. My little guidebook gives us some description and The Scholar eavesdrops a bit on a German guide interpreting for us. The entire complex is breathtaking!

The drive to Delphi is an easy one. As we climb into the mountains, we stop in a little mountain village and walk around. We buy a little local honey, olives, cheese, etc. but much of the town is closed up as we are there in the off season. The scenery continues to get more beautiful the closer to Delphi we get.

We easily find our hotel – Hotel Pitho (http://delphi-roomspitho.clickhere.gr/) in Delphi. There has been much written about this hospitable hotel and its lovely innkeepers – they are beyond charming! George and Vicky seem to make it their duty to make sure all of their visitors feel welcome and love Greece. We have a wonderful one night stay in their charming inn. It is late afternoon when we arrive, we walk around the little town of Delphi – purchase a few souvenirs, etc. George refers us to the restaurant across the street for dinner – Epikouros (www.delphi.com.gr/epicuros/index.html) and it is wonderful! The view is spectacular – in fact, it doesn’t even seem real it is so majestic! We have a table right next to the window looking out into the valley at sunset. Our meal and service is fantastic!

We call it an early evening as we know tomorrow will be a long day, but Mario and The Scholar can’t resist playing Scrabble with the Greek alphabet when we return to the hotel – legitimately, the funniest thing I’ve ever witnessed! Great and peacefully night in Delphi!
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Old Jul 21st, 2014, 12:09 PM
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I am enjoying your report so far and can't wait to read more.
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Old Jul 21st, 2014, 03:33 PM
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Great trip report! It sounds like you and your family have had a wonderful time! I am waiting for more.
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Old Jul 21st, 2014, 07:51 PM
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Fun report. Keep going!
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Old Jul 23rd, 2014, 08:36 AM
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Waiting for Napflio!
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Old Jul 23rd, 2014, 01:52 PM
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Thank you for your kind words. Nice to know a few people are following along - and Nafplio - well, magical! Here is more:


Day Five Delphi Ruins to Nafplion

We enjoy a simple but nice breakfast at the Hotel Pitho – George is very proud of the village bread and home made jams (with good reason – they are fantastic). We check out and make the easy drive to the Delphi museum and historical site.

I have prearranged to meet our guide: Georgia Hasioti ([email protected] ) – and she proves to be great. She is very knowledgeable, had a delightful personality and eagerly answers all of our questions. Georgia walks through the museum for us first and then we begin the walk into Delphi. Georgia is very thorough describing how important this site was in history – we can almost hear the Oracle. It is a very hot day, but the boys decide to continue the walk up to the further most sites. We spend about 3 hours at this location – we stop back in Delphi and pick up cold waters, snacks etc. and then take the long road to Nafplion.

This is our longest day of travel, but the views of the mountains and the sea are tremendous! We meet lovely people along the way at little rest stops etc. We decide to take the long way just to see more of mainland Greece and we’re glad we did.

We arrive into Nafplion (Nafplio) in late afternoon – we immediately fall in love with the town. Somehow, we find our way to our hotel (it is not easy and our GPS takes us to the wrong place at first): The Hotel Byron (http://byronhotel.gr/maineng.html) – I did not thoroughly understand that we couldn’t drive up to the hotel, but we were able to get a few blocks away. Our strong teenagers wheeled our luggage through the streets and then the front desk clerk and the boys carry the luggage up 4 flights of stairs. There is no elevator at the Hotel Byron, but we have strong teenagers – smile. Our rooms are clean and simple, but a little small, however the location of the hotel is perfect, we have charming little baloneys with a lovely view and the staff could not be more helpful!

We get cleaned up a bit and the boys are starving (they are teenagers – they are always starving). We have eaten Greek food every evening of the trip thus far, so we decide on a little detour and visit Noufara in Syntagma Square for Italian food (a few blocks from the hotel) http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...loponnese.html
We get a table outside in the square – we watch the children playing, the lovers holding hands, the older couple sitting on a step, the sky seems a special color as dusk turns to night. It is a beautiful evening – the food is plentiful and good. Nafplion is so charming! After dinner, we stroll through the town a bit and stumble upon a gelateria http://www.anticagelateria.gr/ANTICA...A/Welcome.html - love it - nice ending to our day! We all love our various flavors – just doesn’t get any better than this!

Day Six Nafplion, Mycenae and Epidavros

Breakfast is simply but lovely – I am now obsessed with Greek honey and Greek yogurt! Mario and I sit at a table looking out on the town through the window for a while before the boys join us. We meet up with our guide at 1:00 p.m. so we spend the morning walking around the town.

Our boys discover a little wood working shop where a gentleman is making things with olive wood and his wife is the cashier – my boys are fascinated with this lovely, happy couple and we spend time with them and make several purchases. I find a store that makes hand made sandals and they make several pair to fit me that I can pick up later in the day. I know these will forever bring a smile to my face when I wear them back home and they are so cute and comfortable.

We meet our guide Smaragdi Dize: [email protected] http://www.discovernafplio.gr/en/sec...8/listings/315 at a prearranged location and we follow her vehicle to the Mycenae site. We first walk through the museum and then walk to the Lion’s Gate and up through all the ruins. Once again, we are in awe and my boys feel like they are walking through their history books.

From Mycenae, we follow Smaragdi to the theater of Epidavros – once again view the high points at the museum and then walk up to the theater. I would love to see a production here – how incredible that must be!

We have been very fortunate to line up great guides from the states and Smaragdi is also wonderful - great personality, loves her country and its vast history and seems to be able to answer all of our questions! We have a wonderful afternoon with her!

This sums up the historical sites in the area: www.greecetravel.com/nafplio/nearby.html

We return to the Hotel Byron and get cleaned up for dinner. We enjoy walking around the town – twisting and turning down all of its little streets and all the shops are so charming. We literally fall in love with this town and will recommend it to everyone we know!

For dinner, we decide on traditional souvlaki – we sit outside under the stars (never gets old) – we are about a block up from Systagma Square ( I cannot remember the name of the restaurant), but the food is very fresh and we are crazy about the souvlaki!

Then we go to Pergamonto for their homemade donuts – omg! http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...e.html#REVIEWS

This is just decadent goodness. We start with the hot gooey honey donuts and then to the chocolate donuts and then I think we may have had a third batch. No words for how fabulous this is! If you visit Nafplio – this is a must!

The boys know that we are leaving first thing in the morning so they decide to venture up to the Palamidi fortress – yes, all 999 steps to the top! Apparently, it was quite an adventure – they were the only ones up there and of course, it was dark. I’m not sure this was entirely safe, but they enthusiastically return to the Hotel Byron and are so excited to recap their challenging and almost harrowing evening. Their faces are flushed – they are talking rapidly – “Mom, it was amazing!” Two brothers, hiking above the city to a fortress – magical!
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Old Jul 23rd, 2014, 02:12 PM
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My Greek friends say Napflio is one of the prettiest towns in Greece. We also loved it there. Greek yogurt and honey are addictive. The honey is herbal and I buy it in NYC.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2014, 03:01 PM
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Your report brought back so many memories of our 2011 trip to Greece. We also rented a car-a Citroen-bright lime green! We always were able to find it wherever we parked!

Nafplio-I remember the first time we stumbled across Antica. From that day on I became addicted to gelato. How did I miss going to Pergamonto?? I'm also a donut junkie! Kudos to your boys for walking up to Palamidi. We drove. We also did day trips to Mycenae and Epidaurus from Nafplio. We stayed at Aetoma Hotel in Nafplio. We loved this charming town.

Delphi-We had dinner at Epikourous also! Our table was by the railing with views of the Gulf of Corinth, Itea port, and the valley.

Thanks for bringing back memories of our time in Greece. Sounds like you all had a lovely time! Great that you posted all the links too. That's a big help.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2014, 04:13 PM
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Thank you for such a fresh and lovely trip report. I can't wait for the next installment.
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Old Jul 26th, 2014, 09:58 AM
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Thank you again for your kind feedback. I apologize for the use of the word "magical" so much - but the trip was simply that, magical. Here is a bit more:


Day Seven Nafplion to Mykonos

We are early to rise and enjoy our last breakfast at the Hotel Byron. We say good bye to the delightful staff, load up the Citroen jumpy and take off for the Athens airport. I ask Mario if we have to return the car to the rental agency – he says no that the man said he would meet us at the airport. Apparently, Mario told him we would be there about 11 am and the man from the agency said, “Good I’ll see you there.” We are suddenly a bit concerned about this – what if we don’t find him, etc. We pull into the airport exactly at 11 a,m, and the man is standing on the sidewalk as we pull in, we take out our luggage and the man takes the car. Still a little baffled how this all worked out, but it happened like clock work!

We walk up to the Aegean counter – check in our luggage and take off for Mykonos about 1:00 p.m. It is a quick, but delightful flight and the island is gorgeous as we arrive. We pick up our luggage and there is a driver from our hotel waiting for us who takes us to our lovely accommodations: Petasos Beach Hotel http://www.petasos.gr/ aka paradise! I literally labored and labored over our accommodations from the US – wanted to find a truly beautiful and luxurious hotel for our stay in Mykonos – a well-deserved treat for our family and we found it! Everything about this hotel was perfect and no worries in the world existed while here! We jump into our swimsuits and linger by the pool for the afternoon watching the yachts come in and out of the harbor.

Today is my birthday and I cannot think of a better place to spend my birthday with the people I love the most. Upon arrival at our hotel, the concierge helps us make reservations for dinner at La Maison de Catherine. We unfortunately, did not plan for transportation so we were surprised when we asked to get a cab that they simply were not available, however the hotel offered to get us a private car – it was rather expensive, but we really didn’t think we had a choice. The car takes us to Mykonos town and the driver gives us directions to the restaurant, when we arrive at the restaurant, the evening gets more magical by the minute!

La Maison de Catherine http://blog.mykonosvillas.com/la-maison-de-catherine/ - the owner greets us upon arrival and shows us to a lovely table by the window. I have the bouillabaisse, which may be the best I’ve ever had in my life. Everyone in our family enjoys our meal – we are relaxed, happy and soaking up this special environment. The meal is not inexpensive, but it is a special evening and a beautiful environment for a celebration. Over a month later, I can see our table perfectly in my mind and breathe in the evening – simply intoxicating.

After blowing out my little candle on my cake, we walk around Mykonos town – we stroll in and out of little shops. There is a band playing down by the harbor – it is festive and magical. What a perfect birthday! We call the private car to take us back to the hotel, but tomorrow we get a little wiser about our transportation!

Day Eight Mykonos

We all sleep in a bit and meet in the restaurant for the most impressive breakfast buffet and view for breakfast ever. We have a lovely table on the harbor and we watch the yachts waking up as we have breakfast. The buffet has every possible hot or cold item you could ever want – it is so good and the atmosphere is sheer relaxation.

We have no plans for today so today is a day of rest around the gorgeous pool and overlooking the Aegean. It is all so perfect that it doesn’t seem real – like a dream – so we decide to bask in the lovely dream. This is where we spend the day.

Someone tells us by the pool how easy the bus transport is into the city. Later in the day, we purchase the bus tickets from the front desk and the bus literally picks up right in front of our hotel – it is an easy, clean, comfortable and cheap ride into town.

We take some photos in front of the windmills and then walk into Little Venice. The Scholar has purchased a Cuban cigar and fortunately, he is green and sick by the time we sit down for a drink to watch sunset. - me thinks there will be no more cigars in his future for a while. We enjoy a little pre-dinner cocktail and marvel at the sunset from Little Venice – just another “pinch me” moment. From there we walk to a restaurant that our front desk staff recommends to us: Interni http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran..._Cyclades.html

We pass through the door of Interni to a lovely table in the courtyard and it just feels like this is where the pretty people spend their evenings. The restaurant is sexy yet comfortable, the music is hypnotic and the food and service are wonderful! Another special evening in Mykonos!

After dinner, we walk around some more and find gelato for the boys. I love strolling through all the shops as they twist and turn throughout the town.
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Old Jul 26th, 2014, 01:03 PM
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Love your trip report. I have been to Greece many times. It is harder to get around this country as there are so many islands I want to see and you can't drive. Now you need to go back and see some more. Love Crete and the Peloponesse. I am so happy you had such a wonderful experience.
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Old Jul 29th, 2014, 05:05 PM
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Enjoying your report!
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Old Jul 30th, 2014, 08:02 AM
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bookmarking for our Oct trip. Deborah
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Old Jul 30th, 2014, 08:28 AM
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Deborah, we are also going in Oct. 4th-21st. We will be in Santorini, Napflio, Delphi, Kalambaka, Athens ( in that order ). Planning on taking side trips to Hydra and several Pelopponesian cities.
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Old Jul 30th, 2014, 09:14 AM
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takemewithu, your trip sounds wonderful. We don't arrive in Ahtens until the 20th--then on to a 2 week cruise. I hope you have a great time. Kimi's report provides some very helpful information, doesn't it? Deborah
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Old Jul 30th, 2014, 01:52 PM
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Deborah, have a great time in your cruise too. I agree, lots of useful info in Kim's post. I'm printing and taking a copy of her report with me in our trip to Greece. There is also another, older trip report in 2012 by vmonk, has lots of useful info with driving directions and restaurant recommendations, particularly useful to those who are driving and doing independent tour. I commented on the post so if you click my name you should find it. I think clausar and mariha are Greece locals posting on here, they're very knowledgeable about Greece. stanbr also posted a great report with pictures. Mike Barrett has a great website too with lots of info and pictures. I think it's visitathens.com or .gr if I remember correctly. If you haven't visited his website, let me know I will look it up - i saved it under my favorites. I will post it here.
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Old Jul 30th, 2014, 01:55 PM
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I just looked it up. The website is athensguide.com
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Old Jul 30th, 2014, 02:47 PM
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takemewithu, thank you for taking the time to provide the link to athensguide.com. I just looked at it quickly and see that KimiG used the Athens taxi service mentioned by Mike Barrett.

Usually we are comfortable taking public transportation from airport to city but I just read a posting on cruise critic about a party of 8 travelers who recently were pick pocketed on the light rail to Athens by a team of thieves. They lost passports, money and credit cards. The three people in the party with nothing stolen from them were wearing money belts and/or under-clothing holders.

It's harder for me to pack light when taking a cruise--those darn formal nights!! LOL so we just might opt for a taxi into Athens this time.

Thanks again, takemewithu, and Thank you KimiG for the helpful trip report. Deborah
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