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Tuscany and Maremma

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I'm lucky enough to come back for the third time in Tuscany, following my husband on a business trip to Florence.
After two trips in Chianti and Sienese area, we would like to take this opportunity to visit some less touristy area and have some relax on the beach.
I have read that the Maremma is an area still very wild, but beautiful to visit and little known by tourism.
Really horses race in the wild?
Is it hard to find good facilities to stay?
Any advice on places not to miss? Thanks

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