Turkey in 10 days - stick to the well-beaten path?
Aug 1st, 2012, 07:13 AM
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Turkey in 10 days - stick to the well-beaten path?
Hi everyone, we are planning a 10-day trip to Turkey with our two pre-teen sons. They are well traveled and love exploring cities and experiencing different cultures, but they have limited patience for spending hours at ancient ruins or in museums.
So far, my itinerary looks like everyone else's itinerary for such a short trip - Istanbul (6 days), Epehsus (1 day), Cappadocia (3 days). The only thing we're not doing is a gulet (or at least I don't currently plan to.)
Is there any reason we should try to vary from this? Is there any really cool little off-the-beaten-path detour we can/should take to make us feel like we're experiencing a special part of Turkey? Will two boys go bonkers being dragged from site to site in Istanbul?
Finally, I've been reading with interest the debate about which neighborhood to choose for the hotel in Istanbul. I'm somewhat persuaded that we might not want to stay in Sultanahmet. Based on the neighborhood descriptions, maybe Cihangir would be good for us? Is the Witt a good choice there? Any other good options? Since we have boys who might want to take an afternoon swim, should we aim to stay on the Bosphorus? We are all very active and don't mind walking and/or taking public transport. We like charming but not overly touristic places. I'd love to get your advice.
Thanks!!
So far, my itinerary looks like everyone else's itinerary for such a short trip - Istanbul (6 days), Epehsus (1 day), Cappadocia (3 days). The only thing we're not doing is a gulet (or at least I don't currently plan to.)
Is there any reason we should try to vary from this? Is there any really cool little off-the-beaten-path detour we can/should take to make us feel like we're experiencing a special part of Turkey? Will two boys go bonkers being dragged from site to site in Istanbul?
Finally, I've been reading with interest the debate about which neighborhood to choose for the hotel in Istanbul. I'm somewhat persuaded that we might not want to stay in Sultanahmet. Based on the neighborhood descriptions, maybe Cihangir would be good for us? Is the Witt a good choice there? Any other good options? Since we have boys who might want to take an afternoon swim, should we aim to stay on the Bosphorus? We are all very active and don't mind walking and/or taking public transport. We like charming but not overly touristic places. I'd love to get your advice.
Thanks!!
Aug 1st, 2012, 08:04 AM
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txtree, if your sons have limited patience for ruins, what about skipping Ephesus on this trip? That is a hugh ruin that requires many hours of walking in my opinion. Besides, there are other stuff to see in that region, spending one day there seems to be a waste.
You can add that extra day to Cappadocia, a cool place for all ages.
You can add that extra day to Cappadocia, a cool place for all ages.
Aug 1st, 2012, 08:13 AM
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I could skip Ephesus, but it will be hard. I was a classics major in college and visiting Ephesus has been on my wish list for decades. I recognize that visiting Ephesus with two unhappy kids might not actually fulfill my life-long dream, but it still seems crazy not to go when I have the chance.
Aug 1st, 2012, 08:19 AM
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Some people have done Ephesus in a day trip from Istanbul--there are cheap flights from Istanbul to Izmir. Do that on your 6th Istanbul day while the other parent has different day with the children in Istanbul. Add a day to Cappadiocia.
Aug 1st, 2012, 08:57 AM
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I highly recommend the apartment we stayed at in the Beyoglu neighborhood. A few quick blocks to the Tophane tram stop (2 stops from the Sultanahmet). A few blocks walk to Galata tower or Istiklal Caddesi in the other direction from the tram. You can walk from the apartment to the Sultanahmet in about 20-25 minutes if you choose (we did once but were too lazy to after that, especially to return uphill to the apartment).
It's two large bedrooms (one with two twins and one with a king. Large modern kitchen, large living room, large separate dining area for 6. The outside terrace seats 4 with room to spare.
http://www.vrbo.com/363461
There is a HUGE outdoor pool at the Hyatt Regency Istanbul at Taxsim square (contact hotel for access info) - an easy walk from apartment (or you could consider acrtually staying at the Hyatt and paying three times as much for 1/3 the space).
Also, with "limited patience for spending hours at ancient ruins", I too would consider skipping Ephesus and adding it to either Istanbul (my vote) or Cappadocia.
It's two large bedrooms (one with two twins and one with a king. Large modern kitchen, large living room, large separate dining area for 6. The outside terrace seats 4 with room to spare.
http://www.vrbo.com/363461
There is a HUGE outdoor pool at the Hyatt Regency Istanbul at Taxsim square (contact hotel for access info) - an easy walk from apartment (or you could consider acrtually staying at the Hyatt and paying three times as much for 1/3 the space).
Also, with "limited patience for spending hours at ancient ruins", I too would consider skipping Ephesus and adding it to either Istanbul (my vote) or Cappadocia.
Aug 1st, 2012, 09:11 AM
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first of all, you guys are going to LOVE turkey. for the love of god, please don't skip ephesus. it's a must see. i agree with the posts above - split up the group so you can all do what you enjoy for that day. i think 6 days is too much time for istanbul. we were there for 4 nights and it was good. i suggest pamukkale (i probably didn't spell that right) and maybe konya.
Aug 1st, 2012, 09:17 AM
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BTW, I am also doing Ephesus as a day trip from Istanbul. I am arranged with AboutEphesus, who also has great reviews on Trip Advisor. As I'm traveling solo, it was a bit more expensive for me but like you said, it seems like a shame to be that close and not get there. I believe my flight is at 7:00 a.m. (ouch) and I get back to Ataturk around 8:00 that evening.
Aug 1st, 2012, 09:24 AM
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Wow - I really like that apartment, thanks for the tip. Did you use the Hyatt pool when you were staying there?
Going to Ephesus alone is a possibility - my husband might even be relieved to be spared of the obligation to go. Another option I've been considering is spending a couple of days on the Bosphorus. So maybe 5 days in the Istanbul apartment, 3 days in Cappadocia, and 2 days in a luxe Bosphorus hotel with a pool?
Going to Ephesus alone is a possibility - my husband might even be relieved to be spared of the obligation to go. Another option I've been considering is spending a couple of days on the Bosphorus. So maybe 5 days in the Istanbul apartment, 3 days in Cappadocia, and 2 days in a luxe Bosphorus hotel with a pool?
Aug 1st, 2012, 10:28 AM
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txtree - Sounds like a good plan.
No - we did not use the pool but it's available to non-guest (for a fee). I just wanted to bring it to your attention.
Re. ali_fafa's comment above: Opinions here at Fodor's will differ wildly on what is "enough" time in Istanbul. We were there a week and could have seen much more. Heck, we never even made it to the Asian side of the city!
It's a city of 12 million and has more to see and do, IMO, than other major tourist cities such as Rome or London.
BTW, DO plan on part of a day exploring the 3000 year old city walls. Take the Golden horn ferry and disembark at the Ayvansaray stop (at the north end of the Theodosian Walls) and make your way to the Edirnekapi Gate. You might incorporate Greek Orthodox All Holy Spring Church, Tekfur Palace, and St. Savior in Chora Church along the way. You can return via the Edirnekapi tram stop.
No - we did not use the pool but it's available to non-guest (for a fee). I just wanted to bring it to your attention.
Re. ali_fafa's comment above: Opinions here at Fodor's will differ wildly on what is "enough" time in Istanbul. We were there a week and could have seen much more. Heck, we never even made it to the Asian side of the city!
It's a city of 12 million and has more to see and do, IMO, than other major tourist cities such as Rome or London.
BTW, DO plan on part of a day exploring the 3000 year old city walls. Take the Golden horn ferry and disembark at the Ayvansaray stop (at the north end of the Theodosian Walls) and make your way to the Edirnekapi Gate. You might incorporate Greek Orthodox All Holy Spring Church, Tekfur Palace, and St. Savior in Chora Church along the way. You can return via the Edirnekapi tram stop.
Aug 1st, 2012, 11:27 AM
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If you could add a few days to your trip, I would suggest southeastern part of Turkey (Mardin, Adıyaman/Nemrut) and northeastern part of Turkey. Actually, the country has a lot to offer according to different tastes; so it's a matter of decision what you really want to see or do.
I also think you shouldn't spend less than a week in Istanbul if you really want to enjoy the city (and I'm sure you'll still be missing something). It's a city with nearly 17mio inhabitants in reality, not 12 mio!
There are very nice and luxurious hotels on the Bosphorus. Ciragan Kempinski Hotel, Les Ottomans and 4 Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus are quite upscale. You may also consider Radisson Blue Hotel, in Ortakoy. It's a very lively area with lots of restauranst, cafes and very popular among locals. Or Bebek Hotel in Bebek. Bebek also is a very nice area with more upscale restaurants and cafes than Ortakoy and again very popular among locals.
There is also a small specialty hotel with 5 rooms, called Villa Denise in Arnavutkoy, which also is a very nice area; lots of restaurants again, but it doesn't have a pool unfortunately. The rooms are very nice though. Not all the rooms have Bosphorus view so you have to check with the Hotel. All these hotels are right on the Bosphorus.
Make sure you take a boat tour on the Bosphorus and if possible both day and night, since the night view is incredible!
If the weather permits, you might consider spending a day on one of the Prince's islands (Buyukada or Heybeliada). I'm sure your sons will really enjoy it there. You might even rent bikes and enjoy the island on them. No cars are allowed and transportation is done via horse-drawn-carriages.
Last, but not the least, make sure you try all kinds of Turkish food! Yummy!
I also think you shouldn't spend less than a week in Istanbul if you really want to enjoy the city (and I'm sure you'll still be missing something). It's a city with nearly 17mio inhabitants in reality, not 12 mio!
There are very nice and luxurious hotels on the Bosphorus. Ciragan Kempinski Hotel, Les Ottomans and 4 Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus are quite upscale. You may also consider Radisson Blue Hotel, in Ortakoy. It's a very lively area with lots of restauranst, cafes and very popular among locals. Or Bebek Hotel in Bebek. Bebek also is a very nice area with more upscale restaurants and cafes than Ortakoy and again very popular among locals.
There is also a small specialty hotel with 5 rooms, called Villa Denise in Arnavutkoy, which also is a very nice area; lots of restaurants again, but it doesn't have a pool unfortunately. The rooms are very nice though. Not all the rooms have Bosphorus view so you have to check with the Hotel. All these hotels are right on the Bosphorus.
Make sure you take a boat tour on the Bosphorus and if possible both day and night, since the night view is incredible!
If the weather permits, you might consider spending a day on one of the Prince's islands (Buyukada or Heybeliada). I'm sure your sons will really enjoy it there. You might even rent bikes and enjoy the island on them. No cars are allowed and transportation is done via horse-drawn-carriages.
Last, but not the least, make sure you try all kinds of Turkish food! Yummy!
Aug 1st, 2012, 03:42 PM
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> I could skip Ephesus, but it will be hard. I was a classics major in college and visiting Ephesus has been on my wish list for decades.
Then by all means go! And don't miss the terrace houses (for which there is an additional fee).
> Is there any really cool little off-the-beaten-path detour we can/should take to make us feel like we're experiencing a special part of Turkey?
I wouldn't say it's "off the beaten path," but I saw very few other people in the Soganli Valley (in Cappadocia) - a lovely valley with some impressive rock-hewn churches. I don't know how your children would react - depending on where you end up staying, the drive would likely be something over an hour each way, and then you'd do some rather easy hiking to get to the churches you decide to see. But with 3 days in Cappadocia, I'm not sure that would be the best use of your time. Istanbul, Ephesus, and Cappadocia are (of course) squarely on the beaten track precisely because they are special parts of Turkey.
Then by all means go! And don't miss the terrace houses (for which there is an additional fee).
> Is there any really cool little off-the-beaten-path detour we can/should take to make us feel like we're experiencing a special part of Turkey?
I wouldn't say it's "off the beaten path," but I saw very few other people in the Soganli Valley (in Cappadocia) - a lovely valley with some impressive rock-hewn churches. I don't know how your children would react - depending on where you end up staying, the drive would likely be something over an hour each way, and then you'd do some rather easy hiking to get to the churches you decide to see. But with 3 days in Cappadocia, I'm not sure that would be the best use of your time. Istanbul, Ephesus, and Cappadocia are (of course) squarely on the beaten track precisely because they are special parts of Turkey.
Aug 2nd, 2012, 09:53 AM
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Thanks everyone - this is helpful.
One observation on the luxe hotels on the Bosphorus: holy cow are they expensive!! Have hotel rates in Istanbul gone up dramatically over the past few years? Seems like everything is much more expensive than last time I was contemplating a Turkey trip (which fell through). As one example, I received a rate quote from Empress Zoe, which is are raising its rates in 2013. The room I was looking at is currently 185 euros but will go up to 270 euros next year. I guess there is just super high demand?
One observation on the luxe hotels on the Bosphorus: holy cow are they expensive!! Have hotel rates in Istanbul gone up dramatically over the past few years? Seems like everything is much more expensive than last time I was contemplating a Turkey trip (which fell through). As one example, I received a rate quote from Empress Zoe, which is are raising its rates in 2013. The room I was looking at is currently 185 euros but will go up to 270 euros next year. I guess there is just super high demand?
Aug 3rd, 2012, 01:09 AM
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txtree - you are right about the crazy prices. i had thought with all the eurozone problems going on, travel to europe would not be this expensive. but turkey tourism is booming and clearly defying the trend. What we are paying even in places like Urgup or Sirince is upwards of Eur 200.
