Turkey
Oct 9th, 2014, 02:10 AM
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Forgive me! It is 5 am and I cannot sleep due to jet lag...so I'm trying to write my trip report!!
The trip was everything I had hoped for and more. Turkey is beautiful, both the place and the people. The trip went very smoothly with only one small hitch...a missed flight that Turkish Air went above and beyond to help me straighten out. Very nice.
The trip was a little more "back and forth" than I would usually plan due to the fact that the first half was with my friends and the second half was with my husband. The result was three different visits to Istanbul. Therefore, a little lost time with travel, but worth it.
Hotels:
Istanbul:
Dersaardet - 3 nights Intimate small hotel with nice rooms and an amazing roof top terrace. It was quiet neighborhood hotel, but around the corner from all the sights.
Kybele - 1 night Fun and funky with all the bright colors. Busy pedestrian street. Our room had a small bathroom, but it also had its own small terrace.
Empress Zoe - 3 nights Lovely hotel and rooms. Very charming with all of its zigzag paths and beautiful garden. Around the corner from the Four Seasons Hotel which is an easy landmark when asking directions. It is on a quiet corner at the top of an active restaurant and boutique shop street. It feels great. Service at the Zoe is slightly more formal. I cannot put my finger on it, but, while exemplary, it is not as personal. They have great restaurant recommendations.
Tomtom Suites - 1 night Contemporary design, very elegant and spacious. All the amenities, including my favorite toiletries, Moulton Brown. It was a perfect last night splurge and only a short walk to the hammam that I fell in love with.
Urgup:
Esbelli Evi - 3 nights I had wanted to go here (and the Empress Zoe) for fifteen years now! It met expectations in both style and service. Beautiful. Yasamin makes everyone feel right at home.
Sirince:
Nisanyen Hotel 3 nights This may be my favorite hotel...which is saying a LOT! A complex of old stone buildings on the hilltop overlooking the village (easy walk to town). You feel like you are part of the town, but living within your own family complex. Had a cooking lesson with Mejde in the kitchen building at the top of the hill. It is beautiful. She is a great cook. She was recently televised by the BBC and has a very warm personality. Actually, I loved the whole staff. This place is very special.
Kas:
Per Se Hotel - 3 nights Breathtaking and perfect. My husband thought he had died and gone to heaven. Views to knock your socks off, full service breakfast that includes specialties by the in-house pastry chef, and walking distance to everything in town.
Cirali:
Canada Hotel - 1 night Warm service and delicious meals. I had left a suitcase full of purchases and some items I thought I would not need on the coast at the Empress Zoe Hotel for pick-up later. Unfortunately, I left my "hiking" shoes. I had so wanted to see the Chimera, but only had inappropriate footwear. One of the young staff members heard my plight and lent me his personal shoes! I will never forget this kindness and the hike was a trip highlight. We encountered this kindness all over Turkey.
Kayakoy:
Villa Rhapsody - 1 night As promised, this is a very special hotel with very wonderful hosts. Do not miss the dinner here! The town is not at all built up, although there seem to be some Brits buying and upgrading second homes(?). The road to Gemiler beach is stunning and the cove itself looks to me like Kas may have looked like before it was "found". A special thank you to Croesus and Otherchelebi for helping me to find this wonderful place.
Well, I have to get ready for my first day back to work! I will try to post more later!
Livinright
The trip was everything I had hoped for and more. Turkey is beautiful, both the place and the people. The trip went very smoothly with only one small hitch...a missed flight that Turkish Air went above and beyond to help me straighten out. Very nice.
The trip was a little more "back and forth" than I would usually plan due to the fact that the first half was with my friends and the second half was with my husband. The result was three different visits to Istanbul. Therefore, a little lost time with travel, but worth it.
Hotels:
Istanbul:
Dersaardet - 3 nights Intimate small hotel with nice rooms and an amazing roof top terrace. It was quiet neighborhood hotel, but around the corner from all the sights.
Kybele - 1 night Fun and funky with all the bright colors. Busy pedestrian street. Our room had a small bathroom, but it also had its own small terrace.
Empress Zoe - 3 nights Lovely hotel and rooms. Very charming with all of its zigzag paths and beautiful garden. Around the corner from the Four Seasons Hotel which is an easy landmark when asking directions. It is on a quiet corner at the top of an active restaurant and boutique shop street. It feels great. Service at the Zoe is slightly more formal. I cannot put my finger on it, but, while exemplary, it is not as personal. They have great restaurant recommendations.
Tomtom Suites - 1 night Contemporary design, very elegant and spacious. All the amenities, including my favorite toiletries, Moulton Brown. It was a perfect last night splurge and only a short walk to the hammam that I fell in love with.
Urgup:
Esbelli Evi - 3 nights I had wanted to go here (and the Empress Zoe) for fifteen years now! It met expectations in both style and service. Beautiful. Yasamin makes everyone feel right at home.
Sirince:
Nisanyen Hotel 3 nights This may be my favorite hotel...which is saying a LOT! A complex of old stone buildings on the hilltop overlooking the village (easy walk to town). You feel like you are part of the town, but living within your own family complex. Had a cooking lesson with Mejde in the kitchen building at the top of the hill. It is beautiful. She is a great cook. She was recently televised by the BBC and has a very warm personality. Actually, I loved the whole staff. This place is very special.
Kas:
Per Se Hotel - 3 nights Breathtaking and perfect. My husband thought he had died and gone to heaven. Views to knock your socks off, full service breakfast that includes specialties by the in-house pastry chef, and walking distance to everything in town.
Cirali:
Canada Hotel - 1 night Warm service and delicious meals. I had left a suitcase full of purchases and some items I thought I would not need on the coast at the Empress Zoe Hotel for pick-up later. Unfortunately, I left my "hiking" shoes. I had so wanted to see the Chimera, but only had inappropriate footwear. One of the young staff members heard my plight and lent me his personal shoes! I will never forget this kindness and the hike was a trip highlight. We encountered this kindness all over Turkey.
Kayakoy:
Villa Rhapsody - 1 night As promised, this is a very special hotel with very wonderful hosts. Do not miss the dinner here! The town is not at all built up, although there seem to be some Brits buying and upgrading second homes(?). The road to Gemiler beach is stunning and the cove itself looks to me like Kas may have looked like before it was "found". A special thank you to Croesus and Otherchelebi for helping me to find this wonderful place.
Well, I have to get ready for my first day back to work! I will try to post more later!
Livinright
Oct 9th, 2014, 02:56 AM
#3
Thanks livingright, your post shows that you take your name seriously 
I am glad you enjoyed your trip with no mishaps (what's a missed flight between friends?)
Hotel information will be very useful to future travelers.\, especially when presented all in one post.
I am glad you enjoyed your trip with no mishaps (what's a missed flight between friends?)
Hotel information will be very useful to future travelers.\, especially when presented all in one post.
Oct 9th, 2014, 07:34 AM
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Thanks. I'm planning on staying at the Nisanyan next year, so I'm glad to hear you were very happy with your stay. How did you get to Kas? That was my plan after Ephesus, but I haven't decided on transportation. I've emailed the Per Se Hotel asking for information but they did not reply so I'm a little iffy on them.
Oct 9th, 2014, 09:20 AM
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Hi Sassafrass! My husband and I would also love to live in Turkey.Wonderful!
Hi IMDonehere, we had a driver from the airport, but it is a tight and curvy road in a couple of spots. I've driven on roads as scary, but they are scary! Suha is indeed still at Esbelli Evi! He was very quiet due to the fact that Yasamin handles it all so well, but warm and definately available if needed.
Hi wtm003, We flew from Istanbul to Kas. Sorry, I'm no help there. Hotel Per Se answered each of my emails quickly and gave a very detailed replies. Do try them again. They were very attentive to details, so much so that my husband commented on it.
Livinright
Hi IMDonehere, we had a driver from the airport, but it is a tight and curvy road in a couple of spots. I've driven on roads as scary, but they are scary! Suha is indeed still at Esbelli Evi! He was very quiet due to the fact that Yasamin handles it all so well, but warm and definately available if needed.
Hi wtm003, We flew from Istanbul to Kas. Sorry, I'm no help there. Hotel Per Se answered each of my emails quickly and gave a very detailed replies. Do try them again. They were very attentive to details, so much so that my husband commented on it.
Livinright
Oct 9th, 2014, 02:37 PM
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I continue. Two things really surprised me on this trip. One, no one ever mentioned how hilly Turkey is!!! I walked up and down hill after hill in both Istanbul and at each destination. I have exercised enough to keep me fit (and tired) for quite a while!!! I should clearly have consulted a topographical map! The second thing was how very much I loved the hammam experience. I will miss this treat greatly!!
One thing that did not surprise me based upon all I had heard was how kind and warm the Turkish people are. However, meeting up with it directly is refreshing and reminds you how easy it really is to make someone feel just plain good. There was also a level of trust that I have not encountered in the US. While on my way to a gulet ride in Kas I stopped for hats, suntan lotion, and chapstick. I had a 50 lire bill with me, but the bill came to 70 lire. I was in the process of choosing what to put back when the clerk said "Don't worry. Just stop by and pay me later."!! Something similar also happened in Istanbul.It was amazing.
Gulet ride was on the Batin 2 with Captain Ali (Captain Garlic). Beautiful boat, great food (big lunch, tea, and later fresh fruit), and comfortable atmosphere. He does not play any music (some boats do), so it was very peaceful. He makes an effort to make sure there are no other boats nearby, so you feel like you are all alone. Gorgeous spots on the trip. He charges 150 lire per person. It is a little higher per person than other boats, but he takes fewer people and really tries to make the experience special.
Visited Kalkan. It is also beautiful, perhaps just slightly more polished than Kas, but not as many Turkish people around. Perhaps this is just my impression. There were a lot of Brits, enough so that it seemed all I heard was English and in shops they automatically quote in GBP. Very nice, but we were glad we had chosen lovely Kas.
As far as tours go, we took the following:
Culinary Backstreets in Istanbul. We chose the Grand Bazaar tour. It was my favorite tour of the trip.
A tour guide for the day in Istanbul visited Suleymaniye Mosque, Chora Church, Dohlambace Palace. We requested that we be dropped off in Ortakoy rather than back at the hotel. We strolled and had dinner at Poisson. Walked to Ciragan Palace for a nightcap. Very nice way to end a good day. Took a cab "home".
Time for dinner! Will continue tour info later!
Livinright
One thing that did not surprise me based upon all I had heard was how kind and warm the Turkish people are. However, meeting up with it directly is refreshing and reminds you how easy it really is to make someone feel just plain good. There was also a level of trust that I have not encountered in the US. While on my way to a gulet ride in Kas I stopped for hats, suntan lotion, and chapstick. I had a 50 lire bill with me, but the bill came to 70 lire. I was in the process of choosing what to put back when the clerk said "Don't worry. Just stop by and pay me later."!! Something similar also happened in Istanbul.It was amazing.
Gulet ride was on the Batin 2 with Captain Ali (Captain Garlic). Beautiful boat, great food (big lunch, tea, and later fresh fruit), and comfortable atmosphere. He does not play any music (some boats do), so it was very peaceful. He makes an effort to make sure there are no other boats nearby, so you feel like you are all alone. Gorgeous spots on the trip. He charges 150 lire per person. It is a little higher per person than other boats, but he takes fewer people and really tries to make the experience special.
Visited Kalkan. It is also beautiful, perhaps just slightly more polished than Kas, but not as many Turkish people around. Perhaps this is just my impression. There were a lot of Brits, enough so that it seemed all I heard was English and in shops they automatically quote in GBP. Very nice, but we were glad we had chosen lovely Kas.
As far as tours go, we took the following:
Culinary Backstreets in Istanbul. We chose the Grand Bazaar tour. It was my favorite tour of the trip.
A tour guide for the day in Istanbul visited Suleymaniye Mosque, Chora Church, Dohlambace Palace. We requested that we be dropped off in Ortakoy rather than back at the hotel. We strolled and had dinner at Poisson. Walked to Ciragan Palace for a nightcap. Very nice way to end a good day. Took a cab "home".
Time for dinner! Will continue tour info later!
Livinright
Oct 10th, 2014, 03:09 AM
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Always good to hear about the hotels. I've bookmarked the PeR Se hotel in Kaş - http://www.hotelperse.com.tr/sitebuilder/AboutMe.aspx - although I suspect it might be a bit outside my budget, I usually stay in one of the pansiyons on the west side of town.
Oct 10th, 2014, 11:07 AM
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Hi Otherchelebi! I smile every time I think about your reference to Livinright! We did have a couple of splurges, but as you read, I waited 15 years to make this trip happen!
Speaking of budgets,Croesus, this hotel may be less than you expect. Depending upon when you go, how long you stay, and which room you choose, the rate can be as low as $80 per night for a double. My husband stated he would happily stay in the least expense room if it meant we could go back. They are all lovely. The view changes, of course!
Livinright
Speaking of budgets,Croesus, this hotel may be less than you expect. Depending upon when you go, how long you stay, and which room you choose, the rate can be as low as $80 per night for a double. My husband stated he would happily stay in the least expense room if it meant we could go back. They are all lovely. The view changes, of course!
Livinright
Oct 10th, 2014, 04:51 PM
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Thanks for the feedback, Livinright. Not too much outside my sometimes budget. Although I still hang out in the less than 100TL places whenever I can.
Being a single motorbiker, I only need a simple room. I think I was paying just 40TL a night for a pansiyon in Side in June this year.
For us Brits it's very cheap to fly to Turkey, it's running at about £100 or less return at the moment. My biggest expense is always the vehicle rental and petrol costs.
Being a single motorbiker, I only need a simple room. I think I was paying just 40TL a night for a pansiyon in Side in June this year.
For us Brits it's very cheap to fly to Turkey, it's running at about £100 or less return at the moment. My biggest expense is always the vehicle rental and petrol costs.
Oct 11th, 2014, 03:57 AM
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That sounds quite wonderful, Croesus. I wish I could do it as easily and economically as you! I had an interesting conversation with a woman that used to work for Turkish Airlines. I love that airline! She mentioned that she does not know how long they will be able to keep their unbelievably low fares. They hardly break even and are subsidized by the government. My thought was that the government may be looking at the bigger picture and recognizing the economic benefit having so many tourists visit. I have heard the Turkish Lire is artificially high. Perhaps it is subsidizing the subsidy!
In any case, we hope to return. I may be asking for your pension name! We, like everybody else, love a beautiful place, but we truly enjoy the small, simple family run places too.
Livinright
In any case, we hope to return. I may be asking for your pension name! We, like everybody else, love a beautiful place, but we truly enjoy the small, simple family run places too.
Livinright
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