sprin2

We were able to visit northeast Wales and York over New Years. We traveled with our two boys (5 and 7 years old), and my mom. Our 18 year old niece met us for part of the trip to help with the boys while I attended a conference in York (our reason for going).

Flights:
We flew BMI from Dulles to Manchester, Dec. 26. The plane was scheduled for 6:00 p.m. but was late leaving London due to weather and when we checked in they were hoping for a 10:00 take-off. We took a long walk, had drinks at Old Dominion brewery � a perk for using Dulles, the kids got MacDonalds and icecream, so we were pretty happy and the time went fairly fast. The plane finally boarded at 10:45 and we took off soon after. The positive side was the kids went right to sleep.

Lodging:
We rented two cottages in Bangor-on-Dee at the Stable Yard Hotel. The lodging was very nice and clean. We had a two bedroom; my mom and niece had a one bedroom. Our cottage opened to the street and the back faced the stable yard and the other cottage. Both had washers. The village is on the River Dee and has a neat old bridge; there is also an old church, a pub, small hotel, and a little store. We like to stay in small villages rather than on farms. It was difficult to find a place over New Years.

In York we rented a very spacious 3-bedroom town house near Micklegate, with a view of the walls. It was wonderful � close to everything and very quiet and had every amenity you could ask for. It was ultra modern and really comfortable for a party of 6.

I can also recommend the Ramada Encore hotel on Micklegate, a block from the river. It has a good continental breakfast, and the rooms were a nice size and modern.

Sites, Wales / Chester:
We love ruins, history and being outside. We were excited to discover that our weather was not too cold � mid 40s to low 50s. One day we went to Chester and walked around the walls. This was fun, but the walls were too high for the 5 year old to see over so we had to pick him up a lot. The section by the river looks like it must be really nice during the summer.

One of our highlights was walking over the Pontcysyllte Aquaduct near Llangollen. It was spectacular. We combined this with a visit to Llangollen --lots of shops for mom. We hiked to Dinas Bran, the castle overlooking the town and this was great fun. The boys played Lord of the Rings and King Arthur the entire trip and they really liked this castle. We also hiked to Caergwrle Castle also good, but not as great a view; we visited Holt Castle, neat location by the river, but not much to see; Denbigh, great ruins but parts closed during the winter; and Flint, which was closed due to vandals, but is in another cool location. We happened into a great little church in Malpas, Wales. There were marble tombs of two knights and their ladies. It was so surprising to see them in this little church.

Part of our Christmas present was visiting pantomimes. We saw four and a regular play. I can highly recommend the Rock and Roll panto performed each year in Mold at the Clwyd Theater. This year it was Sleeping Beauty and it was excellent. Our boys are perfect panto age, but we all enjoyed them, what a great Christmas activity!

York Sites:
We loved walking the walls, and they are shorter, so it was easier for the 5 year old to see out. Our favorite section was behind the Minster. Boys enjoyed climbing the Minster tower, we didn�t go into the Minster this trip, we did go to the crypt, which we liked. Visited Jorvik, which the boys and our niece loved. We also went to the Archaeological Research Center (ARC). It is a hands-on archaeology lab, and they explain and show some of the artifacts from the Jorvik excavation. We had a great guide there and the boys really enjoyed it � we stayed a couple of hours and they would have stayed longer. We also enjoyed Clifford�s Tower and the ruins in the Castle Gardens. Didn�t make it to the Railway Museum, something for the next trip.

There is an excellent playground at Rowntree Park just down the River from Clifford�s Tower. It was very large and good all ages. It was a nice walk to it and there are some wonderful water features at the park and looks like it would be lovely in the warm weather.

Restaurant Recs: Warning: if you are offended by children in pubs stop reading.
Anyone going to northeast Wales or the Chester area of England please look up the Brunning and Price pub group. We visited 4 of them: Corn Mill in Llangollen, Pant yr Ochain in Gresford, Cross Foxes in Erbistock, and Glasfryn in Mold. They were all excellent with a wide range of local beers, very good upscale food, and really nice ambience. They don�t have a specific children�s menu, but they were very nice to our group and nice about serving chicken with sauce on the side and plates to share meals. The Corn Mill is right on the river and in a restored mill. My favorite was the Cross Foxes. The Glasfryn is across from the Clwyd Theater. I would go to any of their pubs!

In York we had a nice meal at Jack�s Tapas before a panto at the Opera House. We had excellent Thai food at Thida Thai on George Hudson St. We also had good Indian at Jinnah, which is on Micklegate, around the corner from our flat. We liked the Blake Head Bookstore and Vegetarian Café on Micklegate, it was a relaxing spot to stop. We had tea at Betty�s -- it was crowded, but the boys loved the hot chocolate.

We loved the Maltings and Ackhorne pubs (not with kids) and I think the Last Drop Inn was our favorite of the York Brewery pubs; their pubs do not allow children. Our flat was two blocks from the York Brewery so we went there some nights after the kids went to sleep. It is very comfortable and welcoming.

Ani

Thanks for posting-sounds like you had a great time!
Good to know about the York Brewery pubs. We will be visiting York with our daughter who will be 1.5 in September. How do you find out which pubs allow children and which dont, aside from just walking in and getting dirty looks

taggie

Thanks for posting this report sprin! You've passed along some excellent ideas for people looking at that area, especially with younger kids. Glad the pantos were such a success, and you had a good time overall!

nukesafe

sprin2:

Always such a pleasure to read a report of someone who takes the kids along and has a wonderful time!

We took our four to Europe many years ago when they ranged in age from 6 to 2. Our feeling after the trip endorced one writer who said, "If you are going to Europe and don't have kids -- rent some!" We were on a boat in the French canals most of the time, but the kids were an "Open Sesame" to all sorts of adventures.

Your remark about "If you are offended by kids in pubs --", reminds me of a few years after the boat trip, I took the kids on a drive along the coast in Cornwall. Tired, hungry, and a bit scruffy, I took them into a pub that turned out to be a really high-class eatery. "Oh, Oh, I said to myself, "Now we are in trouble."

We had a nice meal amongst the obviously wealthy and reserved patrons. My kids were their usual happy and a bit rowdy selves throughout the meal, and we had a good time. As we were on desert, I saw a very well dressed older lady pay her bill at a nearby table and approach with the obvious intent of speaking to me.

"Sir", she said, "I watched you and your family enter and thought to myself, "Oh, Dear!"

"Yes, Madam", I replied.

"Well, I must compliment you and the children. I watched you throught your meal and found them to be not only well behaved, but perfectly delightful! Thank you, you have all made my luncheon just lovely."

I nearly fell out of my chair, and still choke up a bit thinking of that happy day.

P_M

Great report!! We are planning a trip to Wales, York, and the Lake District in May, so I have made some notes from your report. We'll check out several things you recommend, including the pubs.

Thanks for all the info.

JJBhoy

sprin2,

I was interested to read your thoughts on the pantomime. We go to one every year & since becoming a Fodorite I have wondered what US visitors would make of it. I'm glad you & your family enjoyed it.

Jim

sprin2

Ani,
We rely on the Good Pub Guide to point us in the direction of pubs that sound appropriate for our family. My husband and I both love beer and we are always seeking that perfect pub. Since we are usually a big group, and have kids, we send one person in to confirm that kids are allowed, and to ask where to sit for our meal.

It was actually embarrasing with the York Pubs, at the brewery they had said kids were allowed at their pubs for lunch. The next day when I went to ask at one, they said "no way" and that "Joe at the brewery was a bloody liar" when I tried to explain.

And JJBhoy, you should hear the boys do panto routines, they have the jokes down.