Trip Report: The dream trip is done and I am sad so I will relive London and Italy with my trip report.
Jul 17th, 2007, 11:25 AM
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Trip Report: The dream trip is done and I am sad so I will relive London and Italy with my trip report.
I formulated all sorts of witty opening lines over the last three weeks we have been back - but I am over 50 and have retained none of them....so I will start with the basics.
I stumbled on Fodor's website last Fall when we had decided to go to Italy for the first time. The information I gathered was invaluable on our trip and I kept a diary with the intention of writing a trip report as my way of saying "Thanks for the help".
We were traveling as an extended family : myself and husband, daughter and husband, son-in-law's parents, our two sons (21 and 14).
My oldest son and I started our trip by meeting in London for a week - just the two of us. He had spent a semester in Spain and was travelling around waiting for the rest of the family to be able to join him for the trip to Italy.
The rest of the family had school/jobs that they needed to attend to but I could get away and just had to be with him on his 21st birthday - so there we were.
We stayed in the Rushmore Hotel in Earl's Court. Nice, clean, budget hotel with a large bathroom on a quiet street and literally around the corner from the tube station. The location was VERY convenient.
They offered a nice continental breakfast in a sunny room with a tray of toast brought to the table. I love the English.
We bought the 7 day oyster card after asking at the tube ticket office what the best deal was for our stay. Fodorites had informed me all about the oyster cards and also that the ticket agents are required to tell you the most economical choice.
A trip to the discount ticket booth in Leichester Square and we were thrilled to get tickets for "Wicked" for the following Monday evening. YEAH!
Our next stop was to Waterloo station to purchase train and ferry tickets to the Isle of Wight (where my mother grew up) for the following day.
We are finding London very easy to navigate and all the train/bus/tube information is fairly easy to figure out. I am reminded by my son that he is a "seasoned" traveler now - so I can stop worrying so much! That's a relief
.
We decide to take in the Imperial War Museum since we are in the general neighborhood. The Trench and Blitz Experience are very good reminders of what my parents lived through in WWII. The Holocaust exhibit was very well done but we were a bit overwhelmed with all the war things and decided we needed to get out and walk the current London a bit.
Time to lighten things up - it is my son's 21st birthday after all!!
Oops...tea time! I'll write more later...about our tea at the Ritz.
I stumbled on Fodor's website last Fall when we had decided to go to Italy for the first time. The information I gathered was invaluable on our trip and I kept a diary with the intention of writing a trip report as my way of saying "Thanks for the help".
We were traveling as an extended family : myself and husband, daughter and husband, son-in-law's parents, our two sons (21 and 14).
My oldest son and I started our trip by meeting in London for a week - just the two of us. He had spent a semester in Spain and was travelling around waiting for the rest of the family to be able to join him for the trip to Italy.
The rest of the family had school/jobs that they needed to attend to but I could get away and just had to be with him on his 21st birthday - so there we were.
We stayed in the Rushmore Hotel in Earl's Court. Nice, clean, budget hotel with a large bathroom on a quiet street and literally around the corner from the tube station. The location was VERY convenient.
They offered a nice continental breakfast in a sunny room with a tray of toast brought to the table. I love the English.
We bought the 7 day oyster card after asking at the tube ticket office what the best deal was for our stay. Fodorites had informed me all about the oyster cards and also that the ticket agents are required to tell you the most economical choice.
A trip to the discount ticket booth in Leichester Square and we were thrilled to get tickets for "Wicked" for the following Monday evening. YEAH!
Our next stop was to Waterloo station to purchase train and ferry tickets to the Isle of Wight (where my mother grew up) for the following day.
We are finding London very easy to navigate and all the train/bus/tube information is fairly easy to figure out. I am reminded by my son that he is a "seasoned" traveler now - so I can stop worrying so much! That's a relief
.We decide to take in the Imperial War Museum since we are in the general neighborhood. The Trench and Blitz Experience are very good reminders of what my parents lived through in WWII. The Holocaust exhibit was very well done but we were a bit overwhelmed with all the war things and decided we needed to get out and walk the current London a bit.
Time to lighten things up - it is my son's 21st birthday after all!!
Oops...tea time! I'll write more later...about our tea at the Ritz.
Jul 17th, 2007, 12:10 PM
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Cant wait to hear the rest. My extended family (my husband and I, my parents, my in laws and my younger bro) are travelling to Italy in Sept for 3 week...looking forward to hearing about your escapades!
Jul 17th, 2007, 02:03 PM
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Before we head back to the hotel for a siesta, we walk to the London Eye -very long lines - we'll wait for next week, over the bridge to Parliament, Big Ben and Westminster Abbey. They are asking 10GBP to go into the Abbey. My son says he has seen many churchs in the past few months and I have been there before - so we pass.
We are rested and cleaned up and head for the Ritz for his birthday tea. They have a loaner jacket for him (a previous post wondering about this received some interesting responses). He looks so nice in this we decide he should keep it. Just joking - but he did look smashing! The tea was pricey -but lovely. Very glitzy Palm Court. We even toasted his 21 years with a glass of champagne. His first alcohol (OK, his first drink since turning 21 is probably more accurate).
The piano player serenaded him with "happy birthday" as we gorged ourselves on tea sandwiches, scones, and dessert pastries. Yes, this is how I would like to have dinner every night.
We planned to walk off our feast by going around Harrod's, only to find it already closed. My son decided that even though he was with his mother, he should go "tip a pint" at the local pub - the King's Head. Nice end to the day but I will enjoy London more when it goes smoke free.
A beautiful Saturday and we head to Waterloo to catch our train to the Isle of Wight. We spend the afternoon walking around Cowes and Gurnard where my mother grew up. There are more sailboats on the Channel than I have ever seen. Picture perfect.
Sunday morning and we are headed for the 11:15 service at the Temple Church (another find thanks to a Fodorite). A traditional english service (from the Book of Common Prayer - 400 years old) in a beautiful church (900 years old) and a look at some knight effigy's after. Not your usual Sunday morning.
Lunch back in Earl's Court at the Gourmet Burger Kitchen. Very good burgers but I am in shock at London prices. 17GBP for two sandwiches and two cokes and a shared order of fries.
Even the local McD's is 6-8GBP's for a meal (I try not to convert to USD but can't help myself on occasion). Ahh well. It is vacation.
My son requests a visit to the Tate Modern art gallery. I am not a fan of much modern art - and after the visit -I am still not a fan. I just don't see the art in something titled "Grey" that is a big picture of...grey, or something that looks like the beginning of a brick patio. I will admit to him that there were a few things that I did appreciate - the Monet, Matisse, Picasso, Pollacks, and Miro.
We stroll across the Millenium bridge to St. Paul's. There is a service in progress so we only peek inside for a few minutes. Our first trip on a double-decker bus takes us to Covent Garden where we are entertained by street performers and window shopping. Another bus ride looking at sights like Trafalger Square and we are headed for the hotel and some snacks from the grocery around the corner for dinner.
Monday and we are headed for the Tower of London. It is a bit overcast and drizzly and maybe that is why there are no lines! First to the crown jewels, then the White Tower and then the Bloody Tower. We caught the last few stops on a Beefeater's tour and some pictures of the crows. Very easy visit.
We walked up the hill and across the street to the Merchant Navy Memorial. My uncle was killed at sea in WWII so we looked for his name on the wall. Sad family history to mix in with all the interesting sites.
We head back to the London Eye and are pleased to find a very short line. Again, the weather is probably a factor but we can see everything fine from the pod. It was a good idea to have walked all around London before the ride so we could recognize so much of what we had seen.
A late lunch at Harrod's. Cottage pie for my son - yum - and another cream tea for me. Hey...when do I get the chance??? Might as well take advantage.
Back to the room for a quick change for the theater. Wow... the tube is PACKED at this time of day (6pm). No surprise, I guess.
"Wicked" was fantastic. We had great seats and the Apollo theater was beautiful. I loved the fact that they sold ice cream in the aisle at intermission.
Tuesday and I hit my first glitch of the trip.
I need a fairly large sum of Euro's to pay cash for our Rome apartment tomorrow. My credit card company had informed me that if I take my passport and credit card to a european bank I could withdraw up to $4,000 (much more than necessary - but good to know). The British bank informs me that no, they will only give me 300 - in GBP's.
Uh-oh. They suggest the currancy exchange next door. After 3 visits there (I had to hit on the manager being there before it all worked out) I finally get the $$$ I need. I suppose I should tell Capital One about this.
One more "tourist" thing to do today...the changing of the guard. It was very impressive but am I wrong in my memory of all the guards being in the red coats and fur hats the last time I saw this? Now only the band is dressed like that and the guards look like regular police/soldiers. I assume it is because of the necessary change in all security since 9/11 and the Iraq war.
There were actually two bands at the gate and they had a bit of "battle of the bands". Quite amusing to think that the Queen could hear the theme from "Star Wars" and "Somewhere over the Rainbow" playing in her front yard.
We met a friend for lunch at "The Albert". It was a ten minute walk from Westminster Abbey but worth seeking out. The pub was packed so we ate upstairs in a lovely dining room and had the best meal at the most reasonable prices we had found in London. 34GBP for 3 full lunches, wine & water.
Snacking for dinner and early to bed. The car is picking us up early for our trip to Rome tomorrow!
Oh no....time to get back to reality and feed the fam dinner.
Next post - Italy.
We are rested and cleaned up and head for the Ritz for his birthday tea. They have a loaner jacket for him (a previous post wondering about this received some interesting responses). He looks so nice in this we decide he should keep it. Just joking - but he did look smashing! The tea was pricey -but lovely. Very glitzy Palm Court. We even toasted his 21 years with a glass of champagne. His first alcohol (OK, his first drink since turning 21 is probably more accurate).
The piano player serenaded him with "happy birthday" as we gorged ourselves on tea sandwiches, scones, and dessert pastries. Yes, this is how I would like to have dinner every night.
We planned to walk off our feast by going around Harrod's, only to find it already closed. My son decided that even though he was with his mother, he should go "tip a pint" at the local pub - the King's Head. Nice end to the day but I will enjoy London more when it goes smoke free.
A beautiful Saturday and we head to Waterloo to catch our train to the Isle of Wight. We spend the afternoon walking around Cowes and Gurnard where my mother grew up. There are more sailboats on the Channel than I have ever seen. Picture perfect.
Sunday morning and we are headed for the 11:15 service at the Temple Church (another find thanks to a Fodorite). A traditional english service (from the Book of Common Prayer - 400 years old) in a beautiful church (900 years old) and a look at some knight effigy's after. Not your usual Sunday morning.
Lunch back in Earl's Court at the Gourmet Burger Kitchen. Very good burgers but I am in shock at London prices. 17GBP for two sandwiches and two cokes and a shared order of fries.
Even the local McD's is 6-8GBP's for a meal (I try not to convert to USD but can't help myself on occasion). Ahh well. It is vacation.
My son requests a visit to the Tate Modern art gallery. I am not a fan of much modern art - and after the visit -I am still not a fan. I just don't see the art in something titled "Grey" that is a big picture of...grey, or something that looks like the beginning of a brick patio. I will admit to him that there were a few things that I did appreciate - the Monet, Matisse, Picasso, Pollacks, and Miro.
We stroll across the Millenium bridge to St. Paul's. There is a service in progress so we only peek inside for a few minutes. Our first trip on a double-decker bus takes us to Covent Garden where we are entertained by street performers and window shopping. Another bus ride looking at sights like Trafalger Square and we are headed for the hotel and some snacks from the grocery around the corner for dinner.
Monday and we are headed for the Tower of London. It is a bit overcast and drizzly and maybe that is why there are no lines! First to the crown jewels, then the White Tower and then the Bloody Tower. We caught the last few stops on a Beefeater's tour and some pictures of the crows. Very easy visit.
We walked up the hill and across the street to the Merchant Navy Memorial. My uncle was killed at sea in WWII so we looked for his name on the wall. Sad family history to mix in with all the interesting sites.
We head back to the London Eye and are pleased to find a very short line. Again, the weather is probably a factor but we can see everything fine from the pod. It was a good idea to have walked all around London before the ride so we could recognize so much of what we had seen.
A late lunch at Harrod's. Cottage pie for my son - yum - and another cream tea for me. Hey...when do I get the chance??? Might as well take advantage.
Back to the room for a quick change for the theater. Wow... the tube is PACKED at this time of day (6pm). No surprise, I guess.
"Wicked" was fantastic. We had great seats and the Apollo theater was beautiful. I loved the fact that they sold ice cream in the aisle at intermission
.Tuesday and I hit my first glitch of the trip.
I need a fairly large sum of Euro's to pay cash for our Rome apartment tomorrow. My credit card company had informed me that if I take my passport and credit card to a european bank I could withdraw up to $4,000 (much more than necessary - but good to know). The British bank informs me that no, they will only give me 300 - in GBP's.
Uh-oh. They suggest the currancy exchange next door. After 3 visits there (I had to hit on the manager being there before it all worked out) I finally get the $$$ I need. I suppose I should tell Capital One about this.
One more "tourist" thing to do today...the changing of the guard. It was very impressive but am I wrong in my memory of all the guards being in the red coats and fur hats the last time I saw this? Now only the band is dressed like that and the guards look like regular police/soldiers. I assume it is because of the necessary change in all security since 9/11 and the Iraq war.
There were actually two bands at the gate and they had a bit of "battle of the bands". Quite amusing to think that the Queen could hear the theme from "Star Wars" and "Somewhere over the Rainbow" playing in her front yard.
We met a friend for lunch at "The Albert". It was a ten minute walk from Westminster Abbey but worth seeking out. The pub was packed so we ate upstairs in a lovely dining room and had the best meal at the most reasonable prices we had found in London. 34GBP for 3 full lunches, wine & water.
Snacking for dinner and early to bed. The car is picking us up early for our trip to Rome tomorrow!
Oh no....time to get back to reality and feed the fam dinner.
Next post - Italy.
Jul 17th, 2007, 03:31 PM
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Good luck with your trip, jamikins. It is such a wonderful place to spend time with people you love.
You are so right, Lee Ann. I was so fortunate to spend time with my son who is not normally a big talker. He had been traveling alone for a week so when we met up he talked more than I could believe! I loved it!! It was so fun to just "hang out" with him after being separated since Christmas.
You are so right, Lee Ann. I was so fortunate to spend time with my son who is not normally a big talker. He had been traveling alone for a week so when we met up he talked more than I could believe! I loved it!! It was so fun to just "hang out" with him after being separated since Christmas.
Jul 17th, 2007, 03:52 PM
#7
Neat report, nona! I was wondering how the Ritz would turn out for you (I remember that thread about the jackets too ) Sounds like you and your son had a wonderful time.
(About the Changing of the Guard - Which uniforms you see depends on which regiment is standing guard. Sometimes it is the Ghurkas and that REALLY confuses people)
) Sounds like you and your son had a wonderful time.(About the Changing of the Guard - Which uniforms you see depends on which regiment is standing guard. Sometimes it is the Ghurkas and that REALLY confuses people)
Jul 17th, 2007, 04:18 PM
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Wednesday morning and we are in Rome!
So far I hate Italy and I am not even out of the airport!
Granted I am tired and hungry but - I have lost an earring in the airport (OK, not really Italy's fault); the driver we had booked was not waiting for us; there is no paper in any of the stalls in the ladies room; the phone doesn't work.
After an hour wait, we finally getting through to the limo service from "Rental in Rome" (whom we booked our apartment with). The driver shows up and I am ready to spit nails. He does not speak english - lucky for him - and I take a deep breath and try and get a grip.
Let's start Italy over. You can't really judge a place by the airport experience, right?
We are driven to a corner of the Campo dei Fiori and our street is so narrow that our driver cannot (or will not) drive his Mercedes down it. No problem.
We are on wheels. As we walk down our quaint street we are thrilled with everything we see. We are pulling our luggage over cobblestones past a mish-mash of tiny restaurants, art galleries, furniture repair shops, and ancient doorways. Our apartment is about a block down the street and I am tickled to see that the front door looks older than my great-grandmother.
My son-in-laws parents are already at the apartment and we get the paperwork out of the way and start to relax and unpack. The apartment is as good as the photo's. Three bedrooms, two baths (although one is the size of a small closet and the other has a hand-held shower hose in a tub), a tiny but servicable kitchen with a washing machine and a nice dining area for our future family meals.
The four of us decide to enjoy our first meal in Italy on the Campo at Baccanale. I was pleased with my pasta carbonera but my son's meal tasted a bit like Chef-boy-ardee. We were all pleased with the prices - around 10 euro per person.
We head back up "our street" - Via dei Campanella and I have now decided that I may just love Italy. Fickle, I know, but good food works wonders on me.
My son tries the hand-held shower and proceeds to make a watery mess all over the floor. In response to my reprimand he says "how hard is it to put on a shower door??" I think someone needs a nap.
We are picked up in the late afternoon by friends of the in-laws and our authentic Italian wedding adventure begins.
We are very fortunate to have been invited (OK, I actually asked if we could come along) to the in-laws friends son's wedding to an Italian woman he met at school in the States.
Wow! Am I glad I did. We took a little shuttle bus about 2 hours from Rome to the most beautiful little hilltop town of Cori.
Cori looks like something from a movie. We wandered the streets and enjoyed the scenes of real life in a small Italian village.
There is a weathered, elderly woman walking to a floral covered door behind an ancient fountain. There is a group of 7 villagers sitting at a front door chatting as the young children run through the courtyard.
Wow. I love it.
The bride's family owns a country home 5 minutes out of town - on another hill - surrounded by vineyards and orchards. Her parents are retired teachers and I asked her what her father did now to occupy his time. She was so adorable when she replied that "he is a peasant". She explains that he makes wine and olive oil from the family "farm".
This is all so beautiful that I am almost overwhelmed.
Shoot...hubby is home. I like that he is home but it means that I am bumped from the computer until tomorrow.
I hope this report is accomplishing some of what I set out to do - provide some useful info for others traveling and maybe provide some fond memories of places visited. I am having a fun time reliving this.
So far I hate Italy and I am not even out of the airport!
Granted I am tired and hungry but - I have lost an earring in the airport (OK, not really Italy's fault); the driver we had booked was not waiting for us; there is no paper in any of the stalls in the ladies room; the phone doesn't work.
After an hour wait, we finally getting through to the limo service from "Rental in Rome" (whom we booked our apartment with). The driver shows up and I am ready to spit nails. He does not speak english - lucky for him - and I take a deep breath and try and get a grip.
Let's start Italy over. You can't really judge a place by the airport experience, right?
We are driven to a corner of the Campo dei Fiori and our street is so narrow that our driver cannot (or will not) drive his Mercedes down it. No problem.
We are on wheels. As we walk down our quaint street we are thrilled with everything we see. We are pulling our luggage over cobblestones past a mish-mash of tiny restaurants, art galleries, furniture repair shops, and ancient doorways. Our apartment is about a block down the street and I am tickled to see that the front door looks older than my great-grandmother.
My son-in-laws parents are already at the apartment and we get the paperwork out of the way and start to relax and unpack. The apartment is as good as the photo's. Three bedrooms, two baths (although one is the size of a small closet and the other has a hand-held shower hose in a tub), a tiny but servicable kitchen with a washing machine and a nice dining area for our future family meals.
The four of us decide to enjoy our first meal in Italy on the Campo at Baccanale. I was pleased with my pasta carbonera but my son's meal tasted a bit like Chef-boy-ardee. We were all pleased with the prices - around 10 euro per person.
We head back up "our street" - Via dei Campanella and I have now decided that I may just love Italy. Fickle, I know, but good food works wonders on me
.My son tries the hand-held shower and proceeds to make a watery mess all over the floor. In response to my reprimand he says "how hard is it to put on a shower door??" I think someone needs a nap.
We are picked up in the late afternoon by friends of the in-laws and our authentic Italian wedding adventure begins.
We are very fortunate to have been invited (OK, I actually asked if we could come along) to the in-laws friends son's wedding to an Italian woman he met at school in the States.
Wow! Am I glad I did. We took a little shuttle bus about 2 hours from Rome to the most beautiful little hilltop town of Cori.
Cori looks like something from a movie. We wandered the streets and enjoyed the scenes of real life in a small Italian village.
There is a weathered, elderly woman walking to a floral covered door behind an ancient fountain. There is a group of 7 villagers sitting at a front door chatting as the young children run through the courtyard.
Wow. I love it.
The bride's family owns a country home 5 minutes out of town - on another hill - surrounded by vineyards and orchards. Her parents are retired teachers and I asked her what her father did now to occupy his time. She was so adorable when she replied that "he is a peasant". She explains that he makes wine and olive oil from the family "farm".
This is all so beautiful that I am almost overwhelmed.
Shoot...hubby is home. I like that he is home but it means that I am bumped from the computer until tomorrow.
I hope this report is accomplishing some of what I set out to do - provide some useful info for others traveling and maybe provide some fond memories of places visited. I am having a fun time reliving this.
Jul 17th, 2007, 04:29 PM
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nona50:
'I am having a fun time reliving this' Please bump hubby off that computer and back to wherever he came from. I am having a fun time reading this and need to hear more about the wedding.
Great report.
Sandy
'I am having a fun time reliving this' Please bump hubby off that computer and back to wherever he came from. I am having a fun time reading this and need to hear more about the wedding.
Great report.
Sandy
Jul 18th, 2007, 09:00 AM
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Ooops. Sorry MissPrism. I know they are ravens. What was I thinking?
I'm happy some of you are enjoying this, too.
I have a bit of time to myself on the computer now so here comes some more....
I'm happy some of you are enjoying this, too.
I have a bit of time to myself on the computer now so here comes some more....
Jul 18th, 2007, 10:05 AM
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My daughter and son-in-law join us in Cori that night and we are all anticipating a wonderful Italian day tomorrow. We are not disappointed.
The Catholic wedding ceremony took place in the ancient, frescoed church overlooking the valley. The church required that you be at least a 3rd generation Cori native to have your ceremony there. Perhaps they feared it would become a "destination wedding" site since it is really so charming.
The priest requested the bride translate his sermon for the english speaking guests - much to the bride's surprise. I don't think I would have been so calm and gracious at such a request on my wedding day!
Huge vases of stunning white roses filled the church. I will pause a moment now and comment on the stunning beauty of the flowers in Italy! I know that the English are renowned for their gardens....but why do I never hear about Italian flower growing??? Plants that we have in Michigan are huge bushes in Italy. It looks like all the soil comes naturally with Miracle Grow! I have never seen a 3 story flowering tree that was nothing but huge, lovely purple flowers. I'm sure my family got very tired of me constantly commenting on the beauty of the flora.
Back to the wedding....
The reception took place in the very nice Hotel Vecshio on Lake Castel Gondolpho, approximately an hour ride back towards Rome.
We started with hot and cold hors d'oeuvres and champagne on the balcony. Dinner was served in a golden dining room on gold rimmed plates overlooking the volcanic lake.
I have attended some fancy dinners in my life, but I don't think I have ever had a meal that required 5 forks and 4 knives (of various shapes). My son looked at me quizically and I whispered "just work from the outside in".
We were grateful to have a guest at our table that spoke fluent Italian and very good English and he proceeded to translate the 8 course dinner menu for us. Astonishing. I wish I had saved the menu to adequately relate what we were served for all the foodies out there. Sorry. The best I can do is relate the basics:
1) 3 wafer thin slices of cold fish (salmon, tuna, and something else)
2)yellow pasta
3)red pasta with lobster
4)shrimp, lobster & veggies
5)liquid sorbet
6)lamp and potatoes
7)salad
8)pineapple boats of gelato and fruit
I apologize for my gross inadequacy in relating how very beautiful every dish was in its presentation, flavor, sauces, and accompanying wine.
The meal took 3 hours and we had ample time between courses to admire the view and get to know our eclectic table mates.
But....that was not the end! We proceeded down to another level of the restaurant/hotel where there was a Grecian pool and a large outdoor patio and ..... a huge table filled with all manner of desserts! Oh my. I was beginning to wish that I had worn some sort of tent dress.
After our fill of desserts (I managed to try a few) and coffee, we walked down a short hill and hopped on the train back to Rome. No ticket bought, no ticket collected. I suppose they don't have enough riders in that little area to make it feasible to man a station or pay a conductor. Trenitalia received a big chunk of our money the rest of the trip...so I didn't feel too bad about the freebee.
A short train ride back to Rome and then a search for the right bus to take us back to our Campo dei Fiori.
We managed to find our very crowded bus and squeeze all six of us (and our luggage) into the middle of this extended transport. We are a bit uncertain which stop to get off at - it is evening and we have only been to this area once before - but we manage to make the decision and off we scramble. Well, everyone scrambles off except the in-laws. We watch in dismay as the bus doors close on them and they begin to drive away.
What do we do??? Chase the bus? Hope they get off at the next stop and know where they are??
The bus goes about 10 yards and stops. The doors open and the in-laws alight.
The grateful husband declares "I am now a Catholic!!"(I wonder if he has informed his Baptist church back home
. Apparently a priest on the bus observed what had happened and ordered the bus driver to stop immediately and open the doors so the in-laws could get out. We do often rely on the kindness of strangers - especially when traveling, don't we??
The Catholic wedding ceremony took place in the ancient, frescoed church overlooking the valley. The church required that you be at least a 3rd generation Cori native to have your ceremony there. Perhaps they feared it would become a "destination wedding" site since it is really so charming.
The priest requested the bride translate his sermon for the english speaking guests - much to the bride's surprise. I don't think I would have been so calm and gracious at such a request on my wedding day!
Huge vases of stunning white roses filled the church. I will pause a moment now and comment on the stunning beauty of the flowers in Italy! I know that the English are renowned for their gardens....but why do I never hear about Italian flower growing??? Plants that we have in Michigan are huge bushes in Italy. It looks like all the soil comes naturally with Miracle Grow! I have never seen a 3 story flowering tree that was nothing but huge, lovely purple flowers. I'm sure my family got very tired of me constantly commenting on the beauty of the flora.
Back to the wedding....
The reception took place in the very nice Hotel Vecshio on Lake Castel Gondolpho, approximately an hour ride back towards Rome.
We started with hot and cold hors d'oeuvres and champagne on the balcony. Dinner was served in a golden dining room on gold rimmed plates overlooking the volcanic lake.
I have attended some fancy dinners in my life, but I don't think I have ever had a meal that required 5 forks and 4 knives (of various shapes). My son looked at me quizically and I whispered "just work from the outside in".
We were grateful to have a guest at our table that spoke fluent Italian and very good English and he proceeded to translate the 8 course dinner menu for us. Astonishing. I wish I had saved the menu to adequately relate what we were served for all the foodies out there. Sorry. The best I can do is relate the basics:
1) 3 wafer thin slices of cold fish (salmon, tuna, and something else)
2)yellow pasta
3)red pasta with lobster
4)shrimp, lobster & veggies
5)liquid sorbet
6)lamp and potatoes
7)salad
8)pineapple boats of gelato and fruit
I apologize for my gross inadequacy in relating how very beautiful every dish was in its presentation, flavor, sauces, and accompanying wine.
The meal took 3 hours and we had ample time between courses to admire the view and get to know our eclectic table mates.
But....that was not the end! We proceeded down to another level of the restaurant/hotel where there was a Grecian pool and a large outdoor patio and ..... a huge table filled with all manner of desserts! Oh my. I was beginning to wish that I had worn some sort of tent dress
.After our fill of desserts (I managed to try a few) and coffee, we walked down a short hill and hopped on the train back to Rome. No ticket bought, no ticket collected. I suppose they don't have enough riders in that little area to make it feasible to man a station or pay a conductor. Trenitalia received a big chunk of our money the rest of the trip...so I didn't feel too bad about the freebee.
A short train ride back to Rome and then a search for the right bus to take us back to our Campo dei Fiori.
We managed to find our very crowded bus and squeeze all six of us (and our luggage) into the middle of this extended transport. We are a bit uncertain which stop to get off at - it is evening and we have only been to this area once before - but we manage to make the decision and off we scramble. Well, everyone scrambles off except the in-laws. We watch in dismay as the bus doors close on them and they begin to drive away.
What do we do??? Chase the bus? Hope they get off at the next stop and know where they are??
The bus goes about 10 yards and stops. The doors open and the in-laws alight.
The grateful husband declares "I am now a Catholic!!"(I wonder if he has informed his Baptist church back home
. Apparently a priest on the bus observed what had happened and ordered the bus driver to stop immediately and open the doors so the in-laws could get out. We do often rely on the kindness of strangers - especially when traveling, don't we??
Jul 18th, 2007, 10:37 AM
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Friday.
The fun never stops!
We are out the door by 8:15 to catch the train to Pompeii at 9:25. When we approach the unsmiling ticket agent he informs us that Pompeii is 33E - one way. We feel this is rather expensive and ask if there is a less expensive train. Yes, there is - at 9:45. That train is only 25E. OK, that is what we'll do. No, you can't - it is full.
He then tells us we can now pay 33E for the 9:55 train. Wait, we say...if we are paying 33, why don't we take the earlier train? That is what I gave you, he snarls, as he hands the tickets to us.
He then closes his window and walks away. I'm guessing he needed his morning capuccino!
We change trains at the rather dirty Naples train station (although it looks like it is in the middle of some massive renovation).
My son-in-law reminds us that lunch would be a great idea before we enter the Pompeii exhibit - and there happens to be the cutest pizza/juice cafe at the entrance.
We had some of the best pizza of the trip at this colorful outdoor cafe. I can't remember the name - but it has oranges and lemons (as big as your head!) hanging all across the front. The personal pizza's and orange/lemon juice cost about 7E per person.
We are energized and ready to explore a place I have read about for years. We rent audio guides which help but are not always accurate in their numbers and descriptions (or they are not up to date with the removal of artifacts). We spend a fascinating 3 hours here with a thunderstorm threatening most of the afternoon. It lent a bit of a spooky air to the place when you heard the rumble and looked over at Mt. Vesuvius.
We are back in Rome for dinner and are happy to get a table on the Campo at La Carbonara. My eggplant parmesean and house red were very good. We had a fun evening of joke telling, watching the life on the Campo, and a not so pleasant time listening to a very loud American couple chat with their table mates. I really didn't want to know what they did, how many children they hoped to have, where they had lived....etc. Would you have said something? We tried some dirty looks - but they were oblivious. They weren't drunk - just loud.
We tasted our first Italian gelato at Joe Gelato on the far corner of the Campo - 2E for a big scoop. Yummmmm.
We were all still in the mood to be out and about so we found our way over to Piazza Navona. One of the fun things about this trip to Rome is that we have all recently read Dan Brown's book "Angels and Demons" and we are having a great time finding all the places he mentions in the novel.
The Bellini fountain is having restoration work done to it but they have been thoughtful enough to provide viewing windows around most of it.
We head back towards home and notice a fair amount of police on the Campo. Is that because it is Friday evening and this is such a busy place?
We find out the real reason tomorrow...
The fun never stops!
We are out the door by 8:15 to catch the train to Pompeii at 9:25. When we approach the unsmiling ticket agent he informs us that Pompeii is 33E - one way. We feel this is rather expensive and ask if there is a less expensive train. Yes, there is - at 9:45. That train is only 25E. OK, that is what we'll do. No, you can't - it is full.
He then tells us we can now pay 33E for the 9:55 train. Wait, we say...if we are paying 33, why don't we take the earlier train? That is what I gave you, he snarls, as he hands the tickets to us.
He then closes his window and walks away. I'm guessing he needed his morning capuccino!
We change trains at the rather dirty Naples train station (although it looks like it is in the middle of some massive renovation).
My son-in-law reminds us that lunch would be a great idea before we enter the Pompeii exhibit - and there happens to be the cutest pizza/juice cafe at the entrance.
We had some of the best pizza of the trip at this colorful outdoor cafe. I can't remember the name - but it has oranges and lemons (as big as your head!) hanging all across the front. The personal pizza's and orange/lemon juice cost about 7E per person.
We are energized and ready to explore a place I have read about for years. We rent audio guides which help but are not always accurate in their numbers and descriptions (or they are not up to date with the removal of artifacts). We spend a fascinating 3 hours here with a thunderstorm threatening most of the afternoon. It lent a bit of a spooky air to the place when you heard the rumble and looked over at Mt. Vesuvius.
We are back in Rome for dinner and are happy to get a table on the Campo at La Carbonara. My eggplant parmesean and house red were very good. We had a fun evening of joke telling, watching the life on the Campo, and a not so pleasant time listening to a very loud American couple chat with their table mates. I really didn't want to know what they did, how many children they hoped to have, where they had lived....etc. Would you have said something? We tried some dirty looks - but they were oblivious. They weren't drunk - just loud.
We tasted our first Italian gelato at Joe Gelato on the far corner of the Campo - 2E for a big scoop. Yummmmm.
We were all still in the mood to be out and about so we found our way over to Piazza Navona. One of the fun things about this trip to Rome is that we have all recently read Dan Brown's book "Angels and Demons" and we are having a great time finding all the places he mentions in the novel.
The Bellini fountain is having restoration work done to it but they have been thoughtful enough to provide viewing windows around most of it.
We head back towards home and notice a fair amount of police on the Campo. Is that because it is Friday evening and this is such a busy place?
We find out the real reason tomorrow...
Jul 18th, 2007, 01:53 PM
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A beautiful, warm Saturday morning (we actually had fantastic weather the whole trip - so I won't bother mentioning it again) and some of us head to the Campo to pick up some fruit, coffee and pastries for the sleepy heads.
How odd. As we approach the square and look for the beautiful flower stand and fruit sellers, we see a line of policemen. What the heck is going on??
We stroll the market and find just what we need for our breakfast. The piazza has beautiful fruit, vegetables, fish, meat -- even a "Ronko" salesman selling a vegetable slicer/dicer/peeler. He is such a good salesman that some of our group couldn't resist his pitch later in the week.
As we head back up our street, there are even more police. They are all milling around - not exactly having coffee and donuts but pretty relaxed.
Over breakfast, one of our party related the fact that President Bush was going to be in Rome today. Aha. That may explain the police presence - but in the Campo?
We head back to Termini to go to the National Museum of Rome across the street. As we are riding the bus, we are overwhelmed with the number of police we see everywhere. I really have never seen so many in one place in my life! Police van after police van parked around the Victorio Emmanuele monument and lines of officers up and down so many streets.
The three "kids" decide they would rather see what is going on in the city than what happened in the city thousands of years ago so they opt out of the museum.
The in-laws and I really enjoy all the busts, sculptures, and mosaics in the museum. Really cool to see ancient Roman artifacts while you are really in Rome.
We grab a quick lunch of panini's, cokes, and water (about 6E each) at Guliani's and head for Dionisius' baths. Unfortunately, the most interesting part of this is closed for renovation. Put it on the list for our next visit!
We have now found out that all the police are in town because of a giant peace/anti-war/anti-Bush rally that is starting right at Termini. It is almost 3pm and the rally is slated to start at 4. There are literally thousands of people gathering to march.
We later saw posters for the march in Paris - so who knows where all these folks came from.
The in-laws are a bit gittery about the whole scene. I gather there was some protesting in their past and it involved tear-gas - an experience they don't want to relive.
It doesn't take us long to realize that the city transport system is not functioning. Duh. How do you get a bus down streets clogged with thousands of protesters?!?
I feel so sorry for the poor family with young children getting off the train, dragging their luggage out to catch a bus...and being greeted with this huge, noisy rally. They looked like deers caught in the headlights!
We start the trek across town - all downhill, I am relieved to find - and really enjoy our walk through places we probably would not have seen. Ohhh...there is some nice shopping in Rome! I'll have to remember how to get back here (I don't). We need to cross a central area of the city (I don't remember which street) but keep getting diverted by police barricades.
Turns out the Roman parliament was right there -one of Pres. Bush's stops. We did happen upon Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon (where we felt we deserved a reward of gelato) so all in all, not a bad walk!
We eventually made it back to the apartment to hear the tale of the kids who had actually seen the Pres. when he stopped the motorcade to wave to the adoring crowd. I'm thinking his security folks were having massive heart attacks!!
We also were thrilled to see my DH and second son who arrived without any hold-ups. Thank goodness I had booked them a limo (another Fodorite recommendation) rather than have them try to take a train and bus!!
We needed to make a toilet-paper run (8 people in an apartment, you know) so we headed out again and landed right in the middle of a near riot!
The "peace" march was ending on the main street (Argentina?) between Piazza Navona and Campo dei Fiori and it was not so peaceful anymore
.
All the outside restaurants in the area - and there are so many!!- were pulling in their tables, shuttering their entrances, etc. We went to a little pizzeria about a block off the main street and decided we were OK as long as the police line didn't start moving.
It did. We heard tear-gas bombs going off and the police in full riot gear striking their shields as they moved towards the crowd. I was in panic mode because my oldest son had decided he wanted to do a little photo-journalism and was out in the thick of it.
We sat at the shuttered restaurant and waited. I ordered a liter of wine and started drinking and praying.
End of long story....the crowds dispursed with some injuries but nothing major. My son returned unharmed but with one of the experiences he enjoyed the most from the trip (crazy kid), and I finished my wine and had a hoarse voice (stress induced??) for the next week.
Here is that hubby home from work again...maybe he should get an evening job so I can keep typing!
How odd. As we approach the square and look for the beautiful flower stand and fruit sellers, we see a line of policemen. What the heck is going on??
We stroll the market and find just what we need for our breakfast. The piazza has beautiful fruit, vegetables, fish, meat -- even a "Ronko" salesman selling a vegetable slicer/dicer/peeler. He is such a good salesman that some of our group couldn't resist his pitch later in the week.
As we head back up our street, there are even more police. They are all milling around - not exactly having coffee and donuts but pretty relaxed.
Over breakfast, one of our party related the fact that President Bush was going to be in Rome today. Aha. That may explain the police presence - but in the Campo?
We head back to Termini to go to the National Museum of Rome across the street. As we are riding the bus, we are overwhelmed with the number of police we see everywhere. I really have never seen so many in one place in my life! Police van after police van parked around the Victorio Emmanuele monument and lines of officers up and down so many streets.
The three "kids" decide they would rather see what is going on in the city than what happened in the city thousands of years ago so they opt out of the museum.
The in-laws and I really enjoy all the busts, sculptures, and mosaics in the museum. Really cool to see ancient Roman artifacts while you are really in Rome.
We grab a quick lunch of panini's, cokes, and water (about 6E each) at Guliani's and head for Dionisius' baths. Unfortunately, the most interesting part of this is closed for renovation. Put it on the list for our next visit!
We have now found out that all the police are in town because of a giant peace/anti-war/anti-Bush rally that is starting right at Termini. It is almost 3pm and the rally is slated to start at 4. There are literally thousands of people gathering to march.
We later saw posters for the march in Paris - so who knows where all these folks came from.
The in-laws are a bit gittery about the whole scene. I gather there was some protesting in their past and it involved tear-gas - an experience they don't want to relive.
It doesn't take us long to realize that the city transport system is not functioning. Duh. How do you get a bus down streets clogged with thousands of protesters?!?
I feel so sorry for the poor family with young children getting off the train, dragging their luggage out to catch a bus...and being greeted with this huge, noisy rally. They looked like deers caught in the headlights!
We start the trek across town - all downhill, I am relieved to find - and really enjoy our walk through places we probably would not have seen. Ohhh...there is some nice shopping in Rome! I'll have to remember how to get back here (I don't). We need to cross a central area of the city (I don't remember which street) but keep getting diverted by police barricades.
Turns out the Roman parliament was right there -one of Pres. Bush's stops. We did happen upon Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon (where we felt we deserved a reward of gelato) so all in all, not a bad walk!
We eventually made it back to the apartment to hear the tale of the kids who had actually seen the Pres. when he stopped the motorcade to wave to the adoring crowd. I'm thinking his security folks were having massive heart attacks!!
We also were thrilled to see my DH and second son who arrived without any hold-ups. Thank goodness I had booked them a limo (another Fodorite recommendation) rather than have them try to take a train and bus!!
We needed to make a toilet-paper run (8 people in an apartment, you know) so we headed out again and landed right in the middle of a near riot!
The "peace" march was ending on the main street (Argentina?) between Piazza Navona and Campo dei Fiori and it was not so peaceful anymore
.All the outside restaurants in the area - and there are so many!!- were pulling in their tables, shuttering their entrances, etc. We went to a little pizzeria about a block off the main street and decided we were OK as long as the police line didn't start moving.
It did. We heard tear-gas bombs going off and the police in full riot gear striking their shields as they moved towards the crowd. I was in panic mode because my oldest son had decided he wanted to do a little photo-journalism and was out in the thick of it.
We sat at the shuttered restaurant and waited. I ordered a liter of wine and started drinking and praying.
End of long story....the crowds dispursed with some injuries but nothing major. My son returned unharmed but with one of the experiences he enjoyed the most from the trip (crazy kid), and I finished my wine and had a hoarse voice (stress induced??) for the next week.
Here is that hubby home from work again...maybe he should get an evening job so I can keep typing!
Jul 19th, 2007, 10:46 AM
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That was the most "exciting" event of the stay so I will finish up this report with a much more abreviated version of the rest of our travels.
Sunday was started with a leisurely stroll around the streets of Rome towards the Vatican. We really are staying in a very convenient location.
After a quick pizza lunch and our first gelato of the day (my second son's second - he is a gelato fiend) we met up with Karen from ICON tours. She took us on a wonderfully informative walk of ancient Rome. Well worth the 80 euro per hour for our group of 8.
Dinner was one of the few Fodor recommendations I got to use in our 2 week trip. I found our group was more of the go, go, go-quick eat because we are starving- go, go, go type. Not a bunch who want to plan and seek out the best restaurants in any area. That was fine (mostly) with me. I'll come back and do the fine Italian food on some other trip.
We ate that evening at Der Pallaro off the Campo. 22 Euro for a wonderful family style meal watched over by the mama/cook. No menus - you sit down and they start bringing everything to the table that is being served that evening. Very fun. The homemade potato chips and tender veal were a big hit with all, the spinach - not so much.
Monday was our Vatican day. Because we were in an apartment without a fax machine, I never received confirmation of our tour. The line was not bad, though, and the kids later told me they enjoyed doing things at their own pace instead of with a guide. We climbed to the top of the Basilica for the marvelous view and wondered at all the beautiful sites inside the dome. I really loved Michelangelo's Pieta the best of almost anything I saw on the trip. It is sad that they must keep it behind protective glass.
We picked up groceries and ate at home - one of the great things about renting an apartment.
A note on working foreign appliances. The dad-in-law tried to do a load of laundry in the kitchen washer and after it was running for 90 minutes he decided it wasn't doing anything, hauled the wet laundry out and then had to mop the kitchen floor. He should have know better when he could not read or figure out any of the symbols on the machine and had a difficult time even opening the thing.
Hand washing is so much easier!
We did a wonderful walking tour of Rome at night - thanks to Rick Steves.
We referenced his book many times throughout the trip.
What a stunning city at night with the Trevi fountain, Pantheon, etc. We threw in the cat sanctuary ourselves but did not get over to the Colosseum. Another good thing to add to my list of things to return to Rome for!
Our apartment window faced out onto a central court with, maybe, 6 others from other apartments/buildings. From midnight until 2am there was a very loud lover's (I assume) quarrel going on in one of the other apartments. Oh...how I wished I knew Italian!!!
Tuesday - our last day in Rome. Sad.
DD and her hubby went to get tickets for our trip to Florence tomorrow. 15E for a 4 hour trip or 33E for a 90 minute trip. Time is money - so we went with the shorter time.
One of our high points in Rome was the Scavi tour we went on today. THANK YOU FODORITES for this recommendation. Everyone listed this as one of the top events of the trip.
The Vatican museums and Sistine Chapel were, of course, amazing. I am glad I snagged a seat for DH and myself upon entering the Sistine. It made the viewing much more enjoyable. Do you think they could come up with a better method of keeping people quiet in there, though, than yelling "QUIET PLEASE" every few minutes??
We made the mistake of eating right across from the museum entrance. Well, the gelato was good - for 8E!!
Dinner was off a side street to the Pantheon - Pizzeria Pummarola. Nothing special but very good service and seeing the Pantheon again at night was a nice way to end our stay.
Wednesday.
Another travel glitch. We are on board the train to Florence - bags all loaded and 5 minutes to departure when we discover - because the cutest little elderly Italian lady shows us - that our tickets were for yesterday's train. The ticket agent issued the wrong dated tickets even though DD and husband told him twice what we wanted. Ah well, we all found empty seats, explained to the conductor that we were certainly not going to pay any extra for the misprinted ticket, and all is well.
next up....Florence!
Sunday was started with a leisurely stroll around the streets of Rome towards the Vatican. We really are staying in a very convenient location.
After a quick pizza lunch and our first gelato of the day (my second son's second - he is a gelato fiend) we met up with Karen from ICON tours. She took us on a wonderfully informative walk of ancient Rome. Well worth the 80 euro per hour for our group of 8.
Dinner was one of the few Fodor recommendations I got to use in our 2 week trip. I found our group was more of the go, go, go-quick eat because we are starving- go, go, go type. Not a bunch who want to plan and seek out the best restaurants in any area. That was fine (mostly) with me. I'll come back and do the fine Italian food on some other trip.
We ate that evening at Der Pallaro off the Campo. 22 Euro for a wonderful family style meal watched over by the mama/cook. No menus - you sit down and they start bringing everything to the table that is being served that evening. Very fun. The homemade potato chips and tender veal were a big hit with all, the spinach - not so much.
Monday was our Vatican day. Because we were in an apartment without a fax machine, I never received confirmation of our tour. The line was not bad, though, and the kids later told me they enjoyed doing things at their own pace instead of with a guide. We climbed to the top of the Basilica for the marvelous view and wondered at all the beautiful sites inside the dome. I really loved Michelangelo's Pieta the best of almost anything I saw on the trip. It is sad that they must keep it behind protective glass.
We picked up groceries and ate at home - one of the great things about renting an apartment.
A note on working foreign appliances. The dad-in-law tried to do a load of laundry in the kitchen washer and after it was running for 90 minutes he decided it wasn't doing anything, hauled the wet laundry out and then had to mop the kitchen floor
. He should have know better when he could not read or figure out any of the symbols on the machine and had a difficult time even opening the thing.Hand washing is so much easier!
We did a wonderful walking tour of Rome at night - thanks to Rick Steves.
We referenced his book many times throughout the trip.
What a stunning city at night with the Trevi fountain, Pantheon, etc. We threw in the cat sanctuary ourselves but did not get over to the Colosseum. Another good thing to add to my list of things to return to Rome for!
Our apartment window faced out onto a central court with, maybe, 6 others from other apartments/buildings. From midnight until 2am there was a very loud lover's (I assume) quarrel going on in one of the other apartments. Oh...how I wished I knew Italian!!!
Tuesday - our last day in Rome. Sad.
DD and her hubby went to get tickets for our trip to Florence tomorrow. 15E for a 4 hour trip or 33E for a 90 minute trip. Time is money - so we went with the shorter time.
One of our high points in Rome was the Scavi tour we went on today. THANK YOU FODORITES for this recommendation. Everyone listed this as one of the top events of the trip.
The Vatican museums and Sistine Chapel were, of course, amazing. I am glad I snagged a seat for DH and myself upon entering the Sistine. It made the viewing much more enjoyable. Do you think they could come up with a better method of keeping people quiet in there, though, than yelling "QUIET PLEASE" every few minutes??
We made the mistake of eating right across from the museum entrance. Well, the gelato was good - for 8E!!
Dinner was off a side street to the Pantheon - Pizzeria Pummarola. Nothing special but very good service and seeing the Pantheon again at night was a nice way to end our stay.
Wednesday.
Another travel glitch. We are on board the train to Florence - bags all loaded and 5 minutes to departure when we discover - because the cutest little elderly Italian lady shows us - that our tickets were for yesterday's train. The ticket agent issued the wrong dated tickets even though DD and husband told him twice what we wanted. Ah well, we all found empty seats, explained to the conductor that we were certainly not going to pay any extra for the misprinted ticket, and all is well.
next up....Florence!
