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Trip Report (Split, Hvar, Dubrovnik)

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Trip Report (Split, Hvar, Dubrovnik)

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Old Jun 1st, 2005, 02:21 PM
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Trip Report (Split, Hvar, Dubrovnik)

Two tips before I begin:

1. BRING YOUR WATER SHOES (acqua socks). There are few, if any, beaches with sand. The beaches are all rock and pebble in and out of the water. You will be a lot happier wearing your water shoes.

2. Although there are ATM machines, many restaurants, shops, and even travel agents that deal in day trips do not accept credit cards. Take more Traveler's Checques than you normally would.


Our trip was from May 16 - May 29, 2005. My husband and I are both 59 and come from a small midwestern town. We have travelled extensively.

We went through Travel Time in Astoria, NY to set up our package deal. We were quite pleased with the help we received and were not disappointed at all. The only problem with Travel Time is that using a credit card to pay for your trip will cost you an additional fee. It is better to pay cash. However, we would recommend them.

Our schedule was: 2 nights in Split, 5 nights in Hvar, and 5 nights in Mlini, Dubrovnik.

SPLIT - We stayed at the Hotel Split. It was adequate and the food was very good but it is a 40 minute walk or a 10 minute bus ride to town. I didn't mind the distance because we think it is fun to walk through the various neighborhoods in a country, but I think if we went back, I would stay closer to town. The driver who met us at the airport suggested the Park Hotel. He was very informative and told us that most people make the mistake of staying in Split for just a day or two. He said Split is the best place to use as a base to go to other places. Looking back, I agree with him. The Old Town of Split is wonderful and we enjoyed going to the Palace. There was also a terrific outdoor market nearby.

HVAR - We took the ferry from Split to Hvar Town. Hvar is just wonderful. We fell in love with it and hope to return some day to rent an apartment there for the entire month of May.

We stayed at The Adriatic. From the picture I found on the internet, I was somewhat skeptical, but we were pleasantly surprised. Our room faced the harbor and as we opened the shutters, it was a picture postcard view. The hotel is small, clean, comfortable and the staff was very nice. I would not hesitate to stay there again. The hotel is close to all of the cafes, and it can get kind of loud at night, but even that was enjoyable.

We took a bus ride to Stari Gard. There isn't much to the town, but the ride was interesting....miles and miles of rock walls that have been built up over the centuries by farmers trying to find land to plant.

Everything about Hvar was just magical. We later met a couple who told us that the restaurant on the way to the Citadel (part way up the stairs and to the right) called Macondo was the best food they had ever eaten.

We even attended Mass at the church on the main square. It was a memorable experience.

Hvar has the best ice cream anywhere, and the pivo (beer) is great...Karlovacko was our favorite.

We took a 6 hour ferry to get to Dubrovnik.

MLINI, DUBROVNIK - Mlini is a small fishing village just outside Dubrovnik. At first, I was disappointed that we could not get a hotel in the city, but it turned out to be just what we wanted. We stayed at the Astarea...a rather large complex that has a lot of tour groups. It was adequate.

Dubrovnik was just a short water taxi ride from Mlini and goes right to Old Town. Old Town is just amazing! It is also very crowded. Try to go up on the wall in early morning because it can really get hot. It was nice to go back to a quiet little village at the end of day. Also, from Mlini and from Old Town Dubrovnik, you can take a water taxi to another small village called Cavtat. Cavtat's harbor is surrounded by cafes and shops and beautiful walkways. It is a tresure, and we went there a couple of times.

OTHER THOUGHTS - I do not generally feel "unsafe" when I travel, but I was amazed at how very safe I felt in Croatia. The people were wonderful and the country is absolutely gorgeous. The 6 hour ferry trip from Hvar to Dubrovnik is stunning, and it makes a brief stop at Korcula. Many people asked why we would consider going to Croatia. It turned out to be the very best trip we have ever taken and I would highly recommend it to anyone. I just can't wait to go back someday.
salt777 is offline  
Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 05:34 PM
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salt777, thanks for posting the trip report. Do you have a web link, address or phone # for Travel Time? What kind of package deal did you get? Airfare and…what else? Did you rent a car through them? Did they select/book hotels?
We are planning a Croatia trip next year (maybe in Sept) for 2 weeks. I was thinking of arranging hotel accommodations myself (always do it that way) but getting to Croatia seems more complicated then getting other places. I might need a travel agency to do that. Thanks a lot
xyz99 is offline  
Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 05:53 PM
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Totaly aggree with your views especially about feeling safe can't wait to go back, We flew into london & took a flight on ryanair to Trieste then the bus to Opatia then ferry from Rijeka to Dubrovnik rented an appartmant. 4 days, after a bus back along the beautiful coast to Split, where we took a 7 day cruise round the islands on a charter yacht , ryanair also flys into Bari so you can take a ferry across to Croatia
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Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 06:25 PM
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We also have been to Croatia. Spent a couple of days on Korcula and found a sandy beach! Hurray! We also enjoyed Split and Dubrovnik. In Split we enjoyed the Ivan Mestrovic Museum very much. We also felt completely safe everywhere we went in Croatia.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 06:28 PM
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great report I am sending to a friend who is going next month
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Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 06:33 PM
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Thanks for your report. We took a trip to Croatia two years ago with our two children and really loved it. We took a ferry from Ancona to Split, then a bus down the coast to Dubrovnik and rented an apartment just outside the old town of Dubrovnik for two weeks. We got the apartment through Dubrovnik-Online.com. We also loved Cavtat, it is a lovely place to stroll, eat and just enjoy the gorgeous Croatian Coast. Not only were the people incredibly friendly and open to tourists, but many were absolutely gorgeous. I am a tall woman at 5'11" and many of the women there were taller than I was! I loved it. The old town is really crowded in the summer and can have a bit of a Disneyland feel to it, until you remember it is a REAL walled medieval city. The streets are paved with marble...it is a real gem. People still live within the walls and they have such an amazing sense of pride and real love of there city.

We were very touched by the still quite visible signs of the war and the effect it had on the people and the way they view the world.

We can't wait to go back.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 09:39 PM
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Thanks for thoughts - last poster talked about taking kids. How old were kids, thinking about going with 5 and 2 year old. How was ferry from Ancona?
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Old Jun 3rd, 2005, 05:35 AM
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What GREAT timing Salt 777!

I've been to the Croatian tourist office (In NYC: Empire State Bldg) &
among my literature haul is a
list of 46 Tour Operators.

I had a long chat -- ok, some might call it grilling & your chosen operator
TravelTime has a good rep w/them.

Note to xyz99: Url is travetimeny.com

A goodly portion of my enjoyment is
the cuisine & Fish appears to be
the main stay of their diet along w/cheese & their wine. What were your findings? And how did you
like the cuisine?

I don't really want to take a tour but
cannot find someone who wants to
experience the Dalmatian coast so
would appreciate any further tips you
have have in your travel bag.

I am looking at late Sept/Oct 1 departure.
Rhea is offline  
Old Jun 3rd, 2005, 06:45 AM
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Salt, I was in the same areas at this time last year. Loved Croatia and wish I had brought the water shoes but I had Teva sandals and wore those in the water.
I stayed at the Park Hotel in Split and Did not like the rooms at all. Dim lighting and dirt and dustballs everywhere. Bathroom had about a 25 watt bulb could not see at all in there but did see the shower was moldy and tub dirty.
I was on a tour and only stayed 2 nights so I survived but would not recommend it.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2005, 06:59 AM
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Rhea -
Croatia's infrastructure - buses, ferries, etc - is so well organized, you don't need to go with a tour group. Croatia is well suited for solo travel.

Water shoes are widely available (and cheap) at the local beach shops in Croatia.

I'm returnig to Croatia this September for the fourth time - spending 5 days on Brac and 5 days on Hvar.

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Old Jun 3rd, 2005, 07:07 AM
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Thanks for the trip report! We are planning a trip to Croatia for next year and are planning on going to the places that you visited. Can I ask how you got to Croatia? We too live in the Midwest and the flights to Croatia are very expensive. We are considering flying into Rome, training to Ancona, ferry to Split and eventually a ferry from Dubrovnik to Bari and back to Rome. I doubt this is the best option, although we love Rome so we would probably include a few nights there before we leave for home.

Thanks again!
Tracy
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Old Jun 3rd, 2005, 08:17 AM
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Thanks; I know the country can be
safely traveled alone but hate to
eat alone when it's a vac.

I'm also looking at Elegant Cruises
(The Monet & her sister ship) which
I have been enamored with for a
while.
Rhea is offline  
Old Jun 3rd, 2005, 09:40 AM
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Rhea: I'm going to Croatia solo in late September also, maybe we can meet up. E-mail me at [email protected] if you're interested.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2005, 10:01 AM
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In September 2004 a friend and I took the Vantage Tours' 15-day tour, which included multiple cities along the coast, plus Slovenia and a day trip to Montenegro. I don't usually do tours, but since I had to find Croatia on the map when my friend suggested it, this was the best way to go for us. I honestly don't think I could drive the winding coastal roads; at least I know I couldn't drive and take photos at the same time! This was a vacation I will never forget; the sheer physical beauty of the area was stunning. The color of the Adriatic cannot be described; the people were wonderful; our young college educated guide a delight; the food mostly good if not gourmet (after all each place was feeding 40 people at one sitting). Only the hotel in Zadar was a bit shabby. We had a home visit included at which the hostess had grown, raised, pickled, etc., every part of the meal. I came home raving about the country to anyone who would listen. I hope to revisit at some point, but, if not, there are my 1000 some photos!
palette is offline  
Old Jun 4th, 2005, 09:40 AM
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sfmaster:
We took two children aged ten all through Europe in 2003, including Croatia. Croatia is incredibly kid friendly...especially on the coast with the beaches and the beautiful little islands.

The ferry from Ancona was an overnight ferry...a cabin would be a must, imho. We missed our ferry from Bari to Dubrovnik and therefore lost our cabin reservation. There wasn't another ferry for three days, so we ended up taking a train to Ancona and catching the ferry there. Since it was high season we couldn't get a cabin and unlike Greek ferries there really were no places to sit except in the restaurants or out on the very misty deck. The deck chairs were those white plastic stacking chairs...not great for a family. Many people on the ferry came prepared with sleeping bags and pads and just camped out in the hallways. We huddled on the floor with my two pashminas as blankets. It was an interesting misadventure to be sure! The silver lining was taking the bus along the coast from Split to Dubrovnik. It was so beautiful.

Our kids, by the way, were real troopers on the ferry. They just saw it as a big adventure.
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Old Jun 4th, 2005, 10:11 AM
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Anyone planning a trip to croatia might find some useful information on my web page describing our trip there in 2003.
Here's the URL.

http://www.travel.stv77.com/croatia/croatia.htm
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Old Jun 4th, 2005, 11:16 AM
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a good website for info & travl
www.visit-croatia.co.uk
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Old Jun 4th, 2005, 11:49 AM
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www.travetimeny.com didn't work. Any other suggestions on what OP used?
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Old Jun 4th, 2005, 12:16 PM
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To tcreath:

We flew from Cincinnati to Frankfurt on Delta and from Frankfurt to Split on Croatian Airlines. On the way home we flew out of Dubrovnik to Frankfurt.

To janeg:

www.traveltimeny.com should work. I heard about them in Budget Travel magazine, and that is the website they give.

To: xyz99

Travel Time arranged flights, hotels, and hotel transfers. We only had to find our own way from the ferry...not difficult at all...especially in Hvar...we could walk to our hotel. However, for the ferry to Dubrovnik, we had to leave from Stari Gard on Hvar...about a 15 minute bus ride.

To: MarthaT

Thanks for the tip about not liking the Park Hotel in Split. There aren't a lot of hotels there. I'd be interested if anyone found one they liked in the city center.

One other note of general information:

Almost everyone spoke English. However, if you have an interest in learning a few words, go to www.travlang.com The website gives basic words in every language there is and it's nice to know a few phrases.
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Old Jun 4th, 2005, 02:21 PM
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http://www.traveltimeny.com/

this worked 5 sec ago
 


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