winnick

<b>France: Paris & Provence Vacation</b>
<b>May 30 - June 17, 2010</b>

<b>Overview</b>

Before reading our trip report here’s a bit about us. We have been traveling, mostly abroad, for 34 years. We always have a detailed itinerary, but we allow flexibility and plan plenty of options. We used to hotel hop spending a few days at various cities and towns throughout our journey, but discovered the enjoyment of ‘slower travel’ and immersing ourselves in the local area when we rented apartments in two different areas of Tuscany in 2008. Living like a local definitely enhances the enjoyment of the voyage and appreciation of the area.

We’d been to France four other times, including trips to the Riviera, Normandy, the Loire valley, and each time a few days in Paris. This time we wanted to see Provence as well as visit one of our favorite cities, Paris.

To make it easier to understand the writing of the trip report, Mike usually had written a journal for each trip. He writes in a stream of consciousness style, refers to himself in first or third person, starts sentences with prepositions, and loves shards of sentence fragments. This trip he took along a netbook, as it was lighter and smaller than his laptop, and he could write his journal in a form that would make it easy to post on line, instead of having to retype his written journal. I took the journal we had bought and used it to record my thoughts.

As with the 2,000 pictures we took, once we got home we merged our two collections, and copied Karen’s written journal into Mike’s digital one, edited the result, and thus arrived at the final one you’re reading now that shift’s between writers, points of view, tenses and detail. Some of the details might seem odd, but Mike writes at times like a ‘24’ episode, likes the ticking clock, and details .

We’ve culled the pictures to a reasonable number and they can be seen at:

http://picasaweb.google.com/planowinnick

So, we hope you enjoy it as much as we did writing about and experiencing our trip.

<b>Sunday, May 30 - Depart DFW</b>

At DFW at 2:00PM. The place was empty. Bag check took just a few minutes. Security was even faster except for having to get undressed first. Took all of 5 minutes. We ate a light meal at Chili’s and got to the gate at 3:30PM. Flight took off just 15 minutes late at 5:50pm. While it didn’t seem like a 9 ½ hour fight (we had exit row seats which made it roomier) it was very cold and seemed like you never could sleep. Karen had a tough time sleeping but Mike was able to get some.

<b>Monday, May 31 - Arrive Paris</b>

Really quiet flight. We arrived at 10:07 vs. 9:40. The taxi and final de-board took a while along with the walk to customs, so we didn’t get out until 10:30PM. We were first in line at Passport Control as the bags came quick due to Mike’s Platinum status. Even better, no stop to exit the customs area. Limo driver, Jacky, was right there. The airport ATM was broke so on the way into Paris we stopped at an ATM to get some cash. Traffic was heavy but we made Agnes’ apartment at 11:30. It’s nice having a limo. He takes care of the bags and it avoids all the taxi stuff.

Agnes’ apartment is so cute and very French. She is a friend of my sister, Edie, who graciously offered us her apartment during our Paris stay. It’s in the 17th Arrondissement, and just meters away from the Parc Monceau Metro. Small, three floors, entry with toilet next to laundry room, then through a doorway to the kitchen, dining and living room with fireplace, up a level to the office and TV sitting area with a full wall of book shelves, and up again to bedroom and bath area. The walls are covered in paintings, like visiting a museum. Each level is about 4 steps up to the next. Probably 600 SqFt. She was kind enough to stock up a few food items, salad, meats, wine, and cheese. She showed us how everything worked and ran through a bunch of restaurant cards and maps that probably would take us two weeks to ever see all of them.

We talked and then went out for her to show us the area. Parc Monceau, metro stops, then all the shopping streets and, especially, where to buy food and stuff, and a few of her favorite restaurants, and then lunch at La Table Monceau right down the street. Prices reasonable at par, otherwise iced tea was 4.10 Euros. But the food was typical French bistro, very good. Of course everyone knew Agnes. Mike had a lamb plate with frites, salad and goat cheese, Karen a Chicken Caesar salad, Agnes an Omelet avec Herbes. Finished with Espresso. Got more cash from ATM. Back to the apartment, Agnes got her bags for her trip to Lyon, we got our stuff for the rest of our day out sightseeing, and we said adieu at the street.

We started our sightseeing then at 3PM. Weather is partly cloudy and in mid 60’s. Perfect for sightseeing. We went to the Metro, bought a carnet of metro tickets and took the metro to Anver. Got the telepherique up to Sacre Coeur. God, it seems so long ago that we did this, 1989 and again in 1994 or 95. Toured Sacre Coeur and Montmarte. Bought a small oil painting from a cute little Frenchman. After snapping some pictures and buying gelato we then took the Metro back at 5pm. We were a little tired from the overnight travel. We always do the Jet Lag diet before our trips to Europe, which has always helped with the jet lag. Still, we are dragging by now.

The Netbook has a problem loading pictures from the SD card. It takes some pictures, then complains about invalid directories, need to format perfectly good cards. Will have to use the smaller cards and back up every night. Long day and tired so we ate dinner at home with food Agnes had left us. Salad, cheese, chicken slices, wine. We’re in bed at 9:30. Great first day in Paris.

<b>Tuesday, June 1 - Paris</b>

Up at 10:40am! Alarm did go off at 8AM but after shutting it and lying back a few minutes we obviously dozed a bit more. Breakfast at apartment. Out at 11:30.

We were going to take the Metro to the Louvre but exited at Tuileries because Karen got claustrophobic with the crowds on it. But it turned out good to walk through these beautiful gardens again. Over to the Louvre. Met a couple from Poland to take pictures. We were stopped, surprise, by a woman asking if we spoke English while roaming the gardens. Obviously a scam as we noticed them all over the place stopping people. We always shook our heads “no” when asked by other scammers and avoided them. Not sure, but read about gypsy pick pockets and wanted to avoid them.

We walked along the Seine and looked for trinkets and gifts. Found good deal on coaster sets. Then to Notre Dame. Cute scene, picture too, of school kids with printed drawings of Notre Dame outlines for them to fill in details and then color (lower grade kids).

Started to drizzle when we left, not bad, but used umbrellas, and found a convenient public toilet just outside Notre Dame. Then on to Ile St. Louis, Ile de la Cite, St. Severin. The line at Ste. Chapelle was really long so we skipped it.

Stopped for gelato (again!). Walked through the Flower market and bought some Santas for the Xmas tree, then walked to Latin Quarter. Took metro back to apartment about 5:30.

It was raining pretty steady and we didn’t feel like washing up and then going out again so we went shopping for dinner stuff. Picked up strawberries and croissants for breakfast and roast chicken and potatoes to eat in. Three different shops, and at Monoprix, like a Wal-Mart, got some Swiss and yogurt. One shop wanted 3.99€ for a small box of strawberries but the next stand had them at 2.99€ for a kilo. Had to convince the seller that we just wanted ½ kilo. Had salad and wine too for a nice rainy evening dinner, then coffee and our chocolate croissants.

Watched TV and wrote up day. No more sleeping late, wake up when alarm goes off. To sleep at 10.

<b>Wednesday, June 2 - Paris</b>

Up at 7, washed, usual breakfast and out at 9:15AM for the metros to Musee D’Orsay. Got there 9:45.

They had moved the Impressionist section from the second floor to the first floor into a smaller area, so it was a bit more crowded, though that may have just been due to there being more people there. Got audio guides for 10€. We spent almost 3 hours just on the Impressionists, then the central hall and some side art and broke for lunch about 12:15PM.

We had lunch at the museum’s beautiful restaurant. Chicken Caesar salad for Karen and Smoked Salmon for Mike.

Then back to an exhibit titled Crime and Punishment. Excellent depiction of man’s fascination and folly on crime, from Cain & Abel to modern times. Various paintings of killing and killers, tabloid coverage’s and attempts to identify killers by how they looked, their ear, eye, nose and head shapes and sizes.

We finally exited the museum at 3. We spent 6 hours there! It was nice to not rush through the museum. Since we’ve been to Paris on 3 other trips, we didn’t have the “must sees” to do this time.

We stopped to buy a Gault building for our collection then took the Metro to the Marais district. We had not been to this area in prior visits.

Walked the streets of the Marais past the old Jewish section and onto the Place des Voges, one of the oldest, prettiest parks in Paris. Lots of people enjoying the sunshine at the park. Strolled the area and took a quick stop at the Carnavelet Museum where we had a drink break in their gardens.

Took the Metro to Etoile stop and saw the Arch de Triomphe. How can you go to Paris and not see it? After some quick photo ops, then walked up Avenue Hoch to Parc Monceau (about a 10 min walk), which is just a few 100’ from the apartment.

Back to the apartment, dumped everything, freshened up, and out to Le P’tit Canon, one of Agnes’ favorite restaurants.

Great, slow dinner. We arrived there at 6:30PM and left at 8:30PM. Tomato & Mozzarella for Karen, Escargot’s for Mike, we both had Boeuf Bourginion (excellent), ½ bottle of a nice red wine, then coffee and an apple tart. The place even had its menu in different languages. The waitress said they got a lot of visitors, and while they spoke different languages most had a common knowledge of English or Italian, thus the menus in those languages.

At 8:30PM the sun is still out! Most shops are closed or closing but managed to pick up some raisin croissants for breakfast and flowers for Agnes.

Packed up everything, relaxed with a bit of TV then to bed for early wake up tomorrow morning.

<b>Thursday, June 3 - iDTGV Paris to Avignon</b>

Up at 5:30AM. After the first morning’s late start didn’t want to miss limo today.

Limo driver was out there at 6:50AM. Nice sunny morning, no traffic and we were at Gare de Lyon by 7:15AM. He went with us to the TGV track area, waited until they posted the track number, walked with us. Security checks the tickets but he was able to go through to help us. He even loaded the luggage in the rack. Nice train and comfy seats. Picked up some juices in the bar and settled in to eat our breakfast. TGV pulled out exactly at 7:46AM. Nice countryside views and a very soft ride.

Arrived in Avignon to a beautiful day and a very nice station. Got the car with no problem, a great little Mercedes 180 automatic. Out of station at 11AM and got to the Hotel d’Europe at 11:30. Very easy to get to as the square it's on is right inside the wall as you drive along the street.

Beautiful hotel, our room (123) has its’ own private entry, just across the front garden courtyard from the main entry, up a few stairs and into what looks like a private apartment. The bathroom is large and very nice with separate tub and large walk in shower.

After unpacking, we took a stroll around town and stopped for lunch at the popular Place d’Horloge. Lunch lasted from 12:15 to 1:30pm.

After lunch we took a mini bus tour round the town from 1:45 to 2:30, then climbed up the road to Parc du Rochers des Doms, a lovely park with great views of the Rhone River and St. Benezet Bridge.

We then toured the Palace of the Popes. They had an extensive audio guide but there was so much information it was overwhelming. You’d be there for hours if you listened to everything. Impressive structure and is the oldest gothic structure remaining in all of Europe.

We left there about 4pm and walked to Pont Benezet for an hour, also impressive with nice views of the town walls and the Palace (typical views on postcards). Then down to see the water wheel on Rue des Teinturiers (not worth it) and back to buy place mats, then back to the hotel room for some freshening up before dinner.

We ate on Place Crillon ,right next to Hotel d’Europe, at Café des Artistes. Mike had Cod w/Basil sauce, salad and mouse with wine. Karen had a chicken, mushrooms, potatoes and wine. We took a short walk to help the digestion and back to room at 9:30. We fell into bed exhausted at 10:30 after a great day.

<b>Friday, June 4, 2010 - Pont du Gard & Uzes</b>

Up at 7:00am. We woke to a beautiful sunny day. Breakfast on the Place de l’Horlage at Les Mistral Brasserie (reasonably priced continental breakfast), then back to hotel to pick up the car to go to Pont du Gard (27 Km).

Easy ride, ½ hour, with only one mistake getting out of Avignon, even with the Garmin.

Impressive structure but even more so the museum exhibit which showed not only how it was done, but why and just how technically adept the Romans were, even in 27BC to 50AD. Spent two hours there then headed off to Uzes at 12:30PM.

Got to Uzes at 1PM, found a parking garage and headed over to the tourist office and Place aux Herbes for lunch. Karen had a Pizza Margherita and Mike a Frittura Mixta, lots of little crustaceans.

Lunched until a bit after 2PM, then off to tour the town using the TI’s suggested walking tour, including a medieval garden and towers from which we could see the entire town after climbing up the stairs. A spiral staircase, with 100 steps, that was really tightly wound. While walking around town, we spotted some men playing boules so stopped to watch for a bit.

Left Uzes about 5PM and back in Avignon (39 Km) by 5:30PM.

Out for dinner at 6:30PM. Walked a bit and settled back at Place du l’Horloge at Jaquemart for a light Provencal meal. (We know it’s touristy but we enjoy soaking up the atmosphere and people watching). Mike had a lox salad with a dinner of two fishes and mousse au chocolat and café, Karen a chicken and mushroom sauce, also mousse. Also the usual wine and ‘eau du robinet’ (tap water). We sat down at 7PM and finished at 9PM. Typical French no-rush meal.


<b>Saturday, June 5 - Drive to Roussillon </b>

Mike up at 7:30 while Karen sleeps in until he is done showering. This will be a quiet day. Slow breakfast on the square, checkout and drive towards Roussillon with stops along the way at some small towns Karen picked out. Even at this hour (8am) the sky’s a bright blue and the sun is brilliant.

We got out to breakfast at 10am. Then shopped at Monoprix for some light shirts for Mike. Found two great ones, really light weight. Back to the hotel to load the car and off at 11:30.

Again, one would think with a hotel map, our maps and a Garmin, (Karen driving and Mike navigating) that it would be impossible to get lost. Not us. We realized it quick though and backtracked and got on the route. Easy drive, lots of small roads with beautiful scenery. We headed for Peter Mayle’s country (A Year in Provence). First stop Gordes for lunch.

What a sight. It is truly a ‘perched village’, much like an Italian hill town. Great views from the road in. Parked at lot at bottom of the town and walked up to Place du Chateau, picked the first brasserie we found as we were hungry and it was late about 1:45pm. Turned out to be a good pick.

It seems you cannot pick a wrong place (or so it seems to us). Karen had a fabulous Chicken Caesar Salad. Mike got Ravioli stuffed with Scallops and the eight of them, at least 4” square, and bulging with scallop filling as well as a mound of stuffing and minced scallops, had him licking his chops. He was in heaven.

While eating lunch, we talked to a couple from Hanover, Germany who spoke English. Very pleasant lunch and good conversation. We finished lunch at 3pm and headed then to Roussillon knowing we’d be back next week.

Got to the Villa Quatre Saisons at 3:30 in Roussillon. Roussillon has been a protected village since 1943 and has avoided new construction that would alter its village ambiance. An enormous deposit of ochre gives the earth and its buildings that distinctive red color. We met Andrew (an Australian who currently lives in Dubai), the owner of Villa Quatre Saisons. He flew in from Dubai for the weekend to attend to some home maintenance. Nice guy. Showed us everything plus, best of all, he hadn’t rented the villa and he allowed us to stay there instead of the small downstairs apartment. He gave us good tips and told us about the free WiFi at the McDonald’s in Apt.

Drove to Apt (the nearest large town) at 4:30 to do some grocery shopping. Got all our breakfast stuff plus some Quiche Lorraine for Karen and a seafood antipasto for Mike, and a bottle of wine all for one evening we decide not to go out. They charged 4 cents each for plastic bags. You bag yourself too. Back at 6:15 with the Garmin taking us through the middle of town, but now we’re getting to know the roads.

Left at 6:30 to go to town and find a place to eat. Found a great little brasserie on the main square after admiring the gorgeous views of the ochre cliffs. We saw lots of interesting restaurants and shops where we will be spending our Euros during our week’s stay. Karen had Coq au Vin, a salad and an apple tart. Mike also had a salad, Poisson au Pappilotte (you can never eat enough fish) with rice and vegetables, plus a tart too, and we shared a pitcher of local wine.

We ended up talking to a Flemish girl from Belgium and a local guy from Roussillon as a result of her trying to describe ‘tap water’ to him. He sort of looked at me knowing I spoke English, he did too but not a lot, and I told him she was referring to l’eau du robinet. That started us all talking. She was there for three months trying out helping run a B&B and not sure she liked it. The proprietor must have taken a liking to us because she brought over two digestifs for us to drink. Dinner was great and over at 8:30.

We notice that most tourists appear to be French, different from our experience in Tuscany where it seemed Americans were everywhere.

We walked about a bit after dinner and went home at 8:45 to relax on the patio. It’s been quite hot today although the evening has cooled down and the breeze makes it pleasant. We have an early wakeup to be in L’Isle sur la Sorgue for Market day tomorrow before 9am.

We have been following Stu’s suggestions (a major Fodorite contributor) for our town visits and driving routes. What great advice. We have his detailed itinerary with us at all times.

<b>Sunday, June 6 - L’Ile-Sur-La-Sorgue, Pernes Les Fontaines, Le Beaucet, Venasque</b>

Mike got up at 6:30, washed, woke Karen at 7:00 and then set up the table for breakfast outside (another gorgeous day). Started a bit late as we ate at 8 and didn’t leave until 8:40, but we got to Sorgue at 9:05.

It’s obviously a market day. Tons of cars but we were able to quickly find a spot on Avenue de Quatre Otages, maybe 200 feet from the entry at Port Gambetta. It’s like Canton Trade Day Mondays Provencal style.

Everything ‘s for sale. Snails, mussels, sausages, nuts, nougat, vegetables, and super large asparagus, roast chickens and hens, meat, clothing, linens, kitchen stuff, even ‘As Seen on TV’ items French style, and of course lavender…any way you want it. In sachets, hearts, pillows, soap, oils and the lavender fronds themselves. We started at 9:15 and by 10:30 the place is packed with people. Needless to say, Karen couldn’t resist the many Provencal offerings and bought linens, lavender sachets, chair pads, towels and Mike bought another pair of shorts.

Walked around and visited the church, and a bunch of water wheels. There are lots of them as the Sorgue river runs throughout the town. At 11:30 we had lunch at Le Bellevue, right on the river as you enter the town, with the clearest running water you’ll ever see and ducks paddling like crazy to stand still. The water runs pretty fast and it’s amazing how they can move around against the flow. Karen had a big salad, Mike a Salmon, trout and some other fish dish with rice and string beans, a pitcher of wine too. At 12:30 we were done.

Next stop the village of Pernes-les-Fontaines. A cute small town with over 40 fountains, maybe ½ hour stop. Then off via St. Didier to Le Beaucet.

This is also a small town, high on a hill, with towering rocks with caves above the houses. Most of the houses are built into the rock overhangs. Saw lots of friendly cats and some kittens. A quaint and cozy town of 350 people. After a 40 min stop, headed off to Venasque.

Today is a ‘celebration of the cherries’ day. We didn’t know that, even though as we’ve driven on the various roads you could see orchard after orchard of trees with bright red fruit on them. Took a while to realize they were cherry trees. So as we entered the road to town we had to park in a makeshift car park in a field, and then get a bus up to town. Many people walked but since it’s all up hill and at least a kilometer, maybe two, we took the bus.

The town has an interesting church, a baptistery going back to the 400’s, and lots of small side streets. At their fete we bought, besides cherries for tonight and tomorrow’s breakfast, some dried fruit. Then it started raining. Light at first, then heavy, then light, and finally stopped when we got on the bus back.

Even though it looked like there were more people than it could hold, and everyone jockeying for position, we all got on. Of course we hadn’t brought umbrellas since it was sunny when we first arrived.

After a couple of hours in Venasque, we drive back over the Luberon Mountains, La Foret de Venasque (forest), through all the windy mountain roads (more beautiful scenery) back to Roussillon. We decide to eat home tonight as we are bushed after a long day.

Dinner is a mix of cheese, antipasto, quiche Lorraine, wine, dried fruit, etc. After photo edit and write-ups we are in bed at 10:00pm. Another wonderful day in Provence!

<b>Monday, June 7 - Goult, Gordes, Abbaye Senaque, Village des Bories, Oppede Le View</b>

Up at 7:30 and out at 9 for Goult.

This is a small 12th century town, but beautiful, with a windmill at the top. The town’s been restored by a guy who bought it because he liked it and set about restoring it. In 1952 he finished restoring the castle and still lives there. There’s still work going on around town and while we were there we could see scaffolding being erected to aid the workers. This was a very beautiful town with gorgeous homes and flowers in every window. As we were leaving, we met an American scientist from Denver who was touring with his German cousin. He told us he had been to see the Turin shroud in Italy and was one of the scientists who first discovered it. We left Goult at 11 for Gordes. We wanted to explore this beautiful town as we had only stopped briefly for lunch on our drive to Roussillon on Saturday.

Along the way to Gordes we stopped for some pictures, spoke to a Frenchman and suggested to him that there was a better view from the other side and arrived in Gordes to sightsee at 11:30.

Mike got to practice his French a little bit more. Parked in the same lot and the same girl was attending it, which she does every day, all day.

We walked up and down, especially down to the Lavoirs the inhabitants had used to wash their clothes. Met a young couple from Phoenix. Walked back up to the top, lots of nice views, and stopped for lunch at 12:30, at Salon de The’ Cannelle.

Karen had pizza again but this was the best ever (even better than pizzas in Italy!), and Mike had a Salad Provencal, also great. We were going to eat at the same restaurant as we did Saturday but we just weren’t that hungry. Tempting because Mike really wanted to have those scallop raviolis again.

Dropped into an Arte Expo and Karen saw an oil painting she liked, bought it from the artist who happened to be there. Then we left about 1:50 for Oppede Le View.

On the way to Oppede we stopped at Abbey de Senanque at 2pm. This is a Cistercian monastery most known for the picture of it fronted by row after row of Lavender in bloom. Unfortunately, the lavender was not yet in bloom while we were there. We missed it by about 2 weeks. Left there about 2:30, and arrived 2:45 at Village des Bories.

Bories are houses made of stones, mostly flat rocks, like flagstones, built in the 11C to 16C. They were laid one on top of each other, angled slightly to keep rain from dripping in, and no mortar used. Their weight kept them in place. People lived in one room, had another Borie for cooking and others for animal housing. They were restored in the 1960’s and some displayed implements they used. We left about 3:30pm.

At a half tank indicated we refueled at 8859Km with 24.39 Liters for 28.78€. We started at 8549 so we did 310 Km on 24.39 liters. That’s a bit over 31 MPGand about $6 a gallon.

At 4 we got to Oppede le vieux. We parked below the town and walked up. It reminded us of Cortona with its steep inclined streets. Through terraces and cobble-stoned streets and up to the old church, rebuilt in the 16th century. Then a hike up to near the top, with warnings not to get too near the cliff edge, to see the remains of an old castle. The town of Oppede and a dedicated group of artisans are rebuilding the village to its former glory. We stopped for some ice cream, visited the church and left at 5:45. Got back home at 6:15 to shower and out to dinner at 7.

We sat on a patio with a panoramic view of the ochre cliffs, which in the setting sun was deep orange, red and pale yellow. Karen had a ravioli with cheeses and Mike an entrecote with frites and ratatouille plus a 50cl bottle of red wine, followed by Tiramisu and Fig Cheese cake. Excellent.

During the day we found two posted ‘a louer’, for rent, signs at some nice looking houses. Need to check out these web sites: www.petitecafe.fr and www.lecastel.co.uk for rentals in Goult.

<b>Tuesday, June 8 - Vaison La Romaine, Seguret</b>

Got up early, 6:30, so we could make the market opening in Vaison la Romaine which is about 50 Km from Roussillon in the Cotes due Rhone region. We had breakfast at 7:40. There are some clouds overhead today which helps keep temps down.

We had to drive through the Foret de Venasque again, but Karen’s getting good at those hairpin turns at the edge of the cliffs. More beautiful scenery. Got to Vaison at 9:40, a bit late but we lucked out and coming into the main street found a lady getting into her car to leave (she obviously got here early, knew what she wanted, and was done).

A short one block walk and it was like L’Isle all over again. Hundreds of booths. We talked with a Senegalese fellow we bought a large bag from, made in Madagascar, and he said he was there at 6am to set up, and his is easy, no food, just tables of bags. He paid 10€ for his 8 Sq meters, and at 1pm he had to be packed and gone. He’s then off tomorrow to the next town’s market day. What a way to live, and it’s every day another town market. Rick Steves says this is the 2nd largest market in France. It certainly rivals the one in L’Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue. The large bag will come in handy for more purchases and toting items on the plane ride home.

We found new, better fitting shorts for Mike, and only 5€, plus a gym shirt, also for 5€. Then we went nuts, or at least Karen did. Two table cloths, twelve table napkins, four placemats. Later on Karen saw a spectacular oil painting at a gallery near the Old Town, which Mike liked too, but expensive. We thought it over and decided there’d be other paintings we’d like and could wait. Karen hopes we don’t regret not buying it later.

Then we wound our way to the medieval town. Climbed the rocks and steep streets, got to the cliff top castle, the church, through all the streets, really working out our thigh muscles. It is amazing when you think that the people who lived here back in the 1st century did this every day!

Stopped at noon for lunch at a little terrace café overlooking the river and old bridge. Karen had a salad and Pizza Galette (a crepe with the pizza toppings on top and baked, Margherita type), and Mike had a Crab salad and artichoke hearts with a great spicy Dijon type dressing and a Pecheur Galette made of mussels.

Then we walked, the wrong way at first, to the ancient remains of Vaison with lots of Roman ruins and a great amphitheatre. Walked around and spent some time in their museum. Did that a while and decided not to do the other half of the ruins across the street. We called it a day at 2:50. We spent 5 hours here, but well worth it.

We left for Seguret, a small 12th century medieval village with just 100 residents. The streets are small, alley like, and it’s a great place to wander. Visited its old church, and then found a Salon de The where we had ice cream with a great view of the mountains and bought a cherry cake for tonight’s dessert (we’re going to eat dinner at home tonight). Met an American couple from Los Angeles who were in the process of doing the loop drive that Rick Steve’s recommends. We knew we wouldn’t make it to the other towns on the loop. This gives us an excuse to visit this beautiful area again.

Left Seguret at 4:15 and decided to go to Apt to shop for more food stuffs and tonight’s dinner. But, on the way through Aubignan we spotted a Carrefour’s and stopped there. Got a kilo of strawberries, some chicken slices, bread, mustard, salad stuff, and more Swiss cheese. That saved us driving to Apt, plus a few kilometers, so the drive through the Forest again wasn’t so bad. Got home at 5:50.

Dinner at home was great. Relaxed, no need to wash and dress to go out, and had some coffee and tea and our cherry cake. A great end to another wonderful day.

<b>Wednesday, June 9 - Menerbes, Lacoste, Bonnieux, Saignon</b>

Up at 7 and on the road at 9. Today’s an easy one, just a few villages and not very long distances. First up is Menerbes, the town that Peter Mayle lived in and wrote his books on Provence that put this area on the tourist route.

Got to Menerbes at 9:30. This is a 16th century village and it’s mainly a pleasant walk through the old streets and alleys to see how people lived and how they live now. As with all of these villages you need strong thighs and sturdy shoes to walk over the cobblestones and up and down the inclines.

Left here for Lacoste at 10:25. It’s a short drive but the scenery causes you to stop and take pictures so it took 25 minutes.

Lacoste has an interesting history. A 12th century church and a 16th century castle (but cannot go inside) way up on top of the village. The castle was once home to the Marquis de Sade. The town walls are well preserved but much of the area is being restored to make up for years of neglect. We walk through vaulted passages and past the communal washing basins that are in each of these towns.

Wind is constant when you walk near the peaks. The winds pop up at odd times, blows a while, then stops, and restarts. At first we thought it was the mistral but these winds were out of the south not the north (very unusual for this time of year we are told). The mistral is a north wind that blows in from the Alps and over the Luberon Mountains that usually lasts 3 days. Fortunately we have not experienced that although we were told to make sure we keep shutters closed when leaving the house because it can come at any time. We headed for our main day’s objective of touring Bonnieux, 15 minutes away (directly across the valley from Lacoste).

As we arrive, we are in awe again at the magnificent site of Bonnieux. This town goes back to the 12th century. There are numerous overlooks on the countryside. There is a new church as well as an old one. We got to the TI, picked up a map, and walked around a bit deciding where to eat.

We ate at Brasserie Les Terrasses, a nice place with outside tables and right on the edge of an overlook of the new church and the valley beyond. Karen had Lasagna Bolognese and a salad (and it came with one too!) and Mike a menu of a fish appetizer with roasted peppers and a small salad followed by a whole cooked trout, which he skillfully skinned and beheaded and betailed, with basil mashed potatoes and a vegetable and onion mix.

We then walked off the meal, visited the old church and the warren of streets and lanes and looked at the old houses which, in most cases, went back to the 16th century and were said to still have the same internal structure.

We left Bonnieux at 2:20 following the D232 (road numbers are nice to have but you can get anywhere six different ways from anywhere). The road signage is excellent and many times better than the Garmin.

But, I digress. On the way we saw some goats, and then realized it was more than some. Probably 50 goats grazing in an open pasture. It was such an unusual sight in this land of lavender and vineyards. We backed up and pulled off the road and got out to visit them and take pictures. They just watched, but didn’t run. Then another car, a sport Lexus passed, slowed, saw them too, and stopped. They came out with their dog and all of a sudden the goats were interested. They started staring and then walking over to see the dog. And then THEIR dog herder popped out and ran to sniff the new dog. The goats started moving up to us and stood there while we petted them. Then the real goat herder came and yelled at his dog, (who understood French!), and he came running back. Amazing sight. Back to the car and on to Saignon.

Saignon is a small, very small, village with an old church too, but it’s closed. A nice walk in antiquity but touched with modern greed as on one of the streets was an old man with his dog lying or sleeping on a folding chair with a sign that said ‘Pictures of Dog, 5€’. Everyone has to make a living so why not the dog?

Also visited the old cemetery with some of the graves dating back to the early 1800’s, and outside it a group of old men playing Boules. Left there at 3:00 to go to Apt to pick up some food for tonight’s dinner as we decided to eat in tonight.

We are definitely eating way too much good food. We were also going to stop at the McDonald’s on the way out of Apt as it had free WiFi. Karen got a ‘petite Coke’. But we couldn’t get the WiFi to work as some Verizon Hot-Spot software wanted me to sign in, I guess thinking that the WiFi spot was its. We didn’t want to spend time trying to figure it out since there was no pressing need. So we left and went back home.

Unpacked and took everything we’d bought the past few days out of the car to see how we’d pack this all up on Saturday, and especially next week when we had to board American. It looks like we won’t have to charter our own jet.

Went for a walk at 5:30, before the shops close up, found more artists shops to buy stuff at tomorrow, when we’ll spend the morning in the Roussillon market day and then touring the Sentier des Ochres, and went back to get dinner ready.

Dinner was a repeat of yesterday, though we had stopped at a Pastisserie on our walk and bought better cakes than at the market in Apt. A great dinner, coffee and cake and then off to record our memories of the day. Another day in paradise.

<B>Thursday, June 10 - Roussillon, Joucas, St-Saturnin-Les-Apt</b>

Up at 7 & 7:30, breakfast at 8:15 and out at 9.

Easy morning. Today is the Roussillon market. We bought some small sachets, Lavender, and some Herbes de Provence.

Decided to have dinner again at home so we picked up a head of red soft lettuce (had leftover mixed lettuces), and a nice tomato but there were no roast chicken venders so we figured we’d go to Apt after we’d visited some other villages.

Stopped then at the pottery store and another ceramics art shop and bought a pitcher and soap dish in the pottery shop and a great bowl made with the colors of the ochre’s of Roussilon. Dropped it all back at the house and walked back to the Sentier des Ocres to walk the trail through the ochre cliffs.

On the way we passed a Boucherie and in his window he’s roasting three chickens. So, no need to go to Apt, we’ll just pick one up when we’re done.

The trails are fantastic. The colors, even with the sun playing tag among the clouds, are vibrant reds, oranges, whites, yellows and purples. The trail lasts about 45 minutes and is an easy walk with some climbing.

When we got done we walked back down, took more pictures and all of a sudden Karen looked back to check on a car she heard coming and walked right into a protruding ledge. She fell forward, and down, banged her knee pretty bad, blood through her jeans, big gash on her knee, at least an inch and curved, and a smaller one two inches away. Luckily her hands didn’t get a scrape as she cushioned her fall with them and her head, even though that too hit the ground and escaped getting bruised. We were just 50 feet from a drugstore so we bought some big sterile dressings (amazing at €7.90 for four), and limped home to wash the wound, ice it for ½ hour, and bandage it.

We left the house to eat lunch and got to the Café des Couleurs at 12:45. Great meal. Both of us had Bouef Provencal, very like a Beef Bourgignon, with Penne pasta and garlicky Haricort’s Verte. Mike had a glass of red wine. This was followed up with desserts of flambéed banana, which looked like a Crème Brulee dish, and a layer cake of strawberries, raspberries and currants. Excellent lunch. So far we have not had one meal that was not great.

Back home at 2:10 and then off to see some smaller towns.

Joucas, maybe 5 Km away, at 3. We parked below the town and walked. Karen’s leg seemed to do ok. Joucas had an old church and quaint old streets, but the best find, starting at the Mairie, town hall, and its plaza, was art work made of wood and plaster and clay, all the size of humans and all faces and bodies of humans. Further down a street and alley we found the artists’ shop. Two of them, Mieke Heybroek and Ulysse Plaud. Probably husband and wife judging by their pictures but we’ll have to check when we get home. It is amazing how they found this little, out of the way, small village to set up their shop, live and work. The shop was not open so we could not visit inside or meet them.

Then off to St-Saturnin-Les-Apt. This was the first town we were not in awe of. A good church and a higher abandoned and ruined castle. It did have a reservoir, or so it looked, with a dam at one end which, if it ever broke, would surely wash the town away. Try as we could there were few restaurants, though we did find a hotel. We stopped for some drinks and then left. Got back home at 5:10.

Showered up and put the chicken in the oven to heat while we wrote up our day and reviewed the pictures. It was on and off sunny and cloudy, but never did rain. Hopefully it will stay that way another week. Very pleasant day and relaxed evening to come.

The roast chicken was very good, maybe better than Sam’s, though Sam’s is $4.95 and this was €9.50. Even at par that’s expensive. But then again diesel was only $4.72 a gallon. Gasoline was $5.52. Good salad; the lettuce was like a Bibb, the tomato was as good as our home grown, and the desserts we got yesterday were good too.

It’s now 9:40, got the day documented, the pictures loaded and backed up, TV says the DOW is up 200+, sky looks dark and cloudy so we’ll see what tomorrow brings. It’s been light here until 9:30 every night. Makes for a nice long day.

Bedtime is 10 or so. Mike still hasn’t even read the first page of the novel he brought and even Karen is only on page 140 of hers, but she did that mostly on the train and plane.

<B>Friday, June 11 - Lourmarin, Cucuron, Ansious</b>

Up at 6:30. This is Lourmarin’s market day. Out at 8:30.

It’s cloudy out but the sun comes through in spots. It is amazing how many days we have brilliant sun, then clouds that look like it’ll rain, but none comes and then it’s either windy or hot again.

Lourmarin is on the list of the 200 most beautiful villages in France and we can certainly see why. We arrive at 9:05 and lucked out again finding a spot in a parking lot right next to the start of the market. Another great market, although not quite as large as Vaison.

Got a wine opener for the house as his was broken, picked up a nice oil painting canvas from a local artist, Karen got a jacket, five of those round Provence towels for gifts and us, some embroidered sachets with lavender stuffing and some post cards.

We visited the castle built in the 11thC and restored in the 16th C. It is furnished from the Renaissance period.

We ate lunch about noon at L’Insolite on their back terrace. So far we have eaten every meal on outdoor terraces. We thoroughly enjoy sitting outside when the weather is nice. Karen had a pizza Roma and Mike had a platter of Rouget’s , a red fish, fillets, with mashed potatoes with herbs and stuff (in place of the polenta on the menu) and a small salad, and a glass of wine. Great meal. Rained a few drops for 30 seconds.

We leave for Cucuron about 1:30. There we visited a castle, church and wandered the streets, but the highlight was ice cream on a square by a very large pond edged by stone work owned by two ducks. This pond, and the table we sat at was featured in a Russell Crowe movie called ‘The Good Life’.

Then off to Ansouis, a 10-minute drive from Cucuron. A really small village which still had an artist’s exhibition there with paintings starting at 1,500€ and up to 4,500€. Don’t know where he gets people to find his place and certainly the town folk don’t have that kind of money…maybe. I guess lots of rich tourists.

Back home at 7 after a stop at the Boulangerie for some patisseries for dinner. Tonight a salad with tomatoes and peas and leftover chicken pieces, then coffee and dessert.

Then we pack up and get ready for tomorrow’s trip to St. Remy. It’s hard to believe the week here is over. It was a great place to be and it was nice to live here. So sad to say goodbye to the Luberon. We will definitely return again.

<B>Saturday, June 12 - St Remy</b>

Up at 7 for our last breakfast and Evelyn, Andrew’s house manager, arrived at 10. She mentioned that the cleaning crew gets 50€ an hour whereas she, as a teacher got 16€. She mentioned that she had lived in LA when she was married but that it was too hectic a life and wanted to return to Roussillon.

Off at 10:15, gassed up, did about 31 MPG. Nearing St. Remy there was a scenic drive where the road on both sides was planted with towering trees for what seemed like kilometer after kilometer and then, after a turn, a very large waterfall, actually two, one about 100 yards behind the first, pouring water as though there had just been a major river flooding. The remains of an old aqueduct.

Drove into town, and then out the back end to the hotel, Le Mas Des Carassins, arriving at 11:25.

The hotel is better than the pictures. Beautiful, and our room (La Jasse) is one with a terrace, and a sunroom between it and the bedroom, and full of chairs, sofa, tables inside and out. And the glass all around lets you see the countryside as you sit. The gardens are immense with two pools, lots of trees and flowers and lavender planted in rows in one section.

We left the car and ambled into town, a short 10 minute walk. Got a map at the TI and found a place to eat, Pizzeria Aldo. Pizza for Karen (again) and Salad Nicoise for Mike, a glass of wine, heaven again.

Our waitress was from Vancouver, a student at the university, born in Mozambique, her mother now lives in France and she has worked at this restaurant every summer the past few years. But like all of us she considers home her favorite and isn’t really fond of St. Remy. She said It gets too hot, hectic at tourist season, and then boring. But she is a young college student and prefers the activity of Vancouver.

We then did the walking tour nicely laid out on the TI’s map. Saw the town square and offices, the Mairie, the house where Nostradamus was born, the old porte’s into town, church, etc. A nice compact area.

Then we walked back to the hotel, checked in, got our stuff from the car and called it a day. Went out to the pool, laid down on some lounge chairs, wicker with giant pillows, and read…relaxed for the first time in two weeks instead of being out there sightseeing.
After, about six, back to the room to shower for dinner at 7:30. Caught up with email as the rooms have WiFi.

Dinner was amazing. Tables set up outside on the lawn and among the trees. All set for two, whether a large round one, like ours, or smaller twos. We had made a dinner reservation for this night before we left as the hotel’s food was awarded two stars by Michelin and at 30€ is a bargain. They were known to have great gourmet dinners which sold out fast and it was a good choice.

We started with a glass, an aperitif, of a rose colored bubbly, and then a dip of pureed zucchini with bread. When we checked in the girl had told us the menu and she mentioned scallops. We told her Karen wasn’t a big seafood fan so she suggested they could provide an alternate selection. But we then saw the menu and since there were other items in the meal said it would not be a problem.

The meal continued then with a first plate of scallops, done three ways and a special tarte of vegetables, and herbs baked just for Karen. Very thoughtful. All tasted great and Karen tried one of the scallop portions and liked it. We ordered a bottle of a Rose wine and then came the main course, a beef tenderloin with a green vegetable, fingerling potatoes and a fois gras sauce. Also excellent. Then came a cheese course with a mild spreadable cheese covered with olive oil and herbs, then a trio of strawberry desserts, one a mélange of berries and rhubarb, one a sherbet, and strawberry drink. Topped off then with coffees and we were done. What a great diner, great setting. We planned then to see about making another reservation for the night before we leave.

Back to the room then to bed at 10:30. The end of another great day.

<b>Sunday, June 13 - Les Baux, Arles</b>

Up at 6:45. Breakfast at 8:15.

Breakfast selections are expansive. There’s various breads, croissants, even chocolate ones, yogurt, cheeses, ham, sausages, eggs, grilled tomatoes, fresh fruits and jams, coffee and juices. Karen has her usual yogurt, fresh fruit, and those heavenly croissants. Mike pigs out on cheese sandwiches and the great fig jam on croissants, coffee and juice.

We leave at 9:05. The drive is beautiful through the mountain passes and countryside. Then up to Les Baux at 9:20.

The town was owned by the Grimaldi family (Prince of Monaco). The Chateau and the ‘Keep’ are at the highest point on the rocky mount. We drove up a bit, found a parking spot, and started to walk up. It’s like walking back in time with the windy streets and limestone rock everywhere. Spectacular views of the valley and Alpilles mountains. Then we walked the castle area with a great audioguide. Every place we’ve been that has these has good ones with lots of detail.

At 11am there’s a demo of the weapons used to defend against attacks on these fortifications. The fellow showing them speaks French only and selects eight women to demonstrate one as in medieval times this small one was manned by women. Karen was one of the women selected to operate the ‘trebuchet’.

We then continued our walk around town. We find a pottery shop with some interesting dishes. We buy 8 of them to use as bread and butter plates for our dinner groups.

Had lunch at Les Quentades on their terrace cut into the limestone rock.

As we were getting ready to get in the car, Karen noticed a cat intently looking under the car and then she noticed a snake curled up under the car. Obviously queasy about seeing the snake and ready to hop in the car quick. As we drove out of the lot, we noticed the snake quickly slither away under the next car, the cat following closely behind. We leave for Arles at 2:00.

Arrived Arles at 2:30. Parked on Place Lamartine and walked through the main porte up to the Arena, a smaller version of the Coliseum in Rome.

For a 1st century town it’s pretty well preserved. Got the tourist train for an overview ride through town.

Visited the Arena, then Van Gogh’s restaurant on Place du Forum, where he painted his famous Café Nuit, then the theatre from Roman times, which was reasonably preserved but the most interesting thing was seeing pieces of columns and friezes just lying about like construction debris. Then the Rhone Quai, and the Foundation de Van Gogh, an homage to him by various artists containing interpretations of his work, and back to Place du Forum for cups of Ben & Jerry’s. Walked a bit more and left at 6.

We did notice that quite a few shops were open which surprised us since it was Sunday.

On the drive back it rained a bit but we took a side road after seeing a map symbol about Roman Aqueduct ruins. Got on this little road and found them. Except for the signage you would never know they were there. Really cool to just wander the roads, find a site, and explore.

Turned the car around and back to another side road, back to main road and up to Glanum. It was closed but we were able to see two ruins.

We parked at the TI in St. Remy (a little closer to town) and walked the streets for dinner.

Found a great place for dinner, Bar-Tabac les Alpilles. Karen had Ravioli and Mike a great Pasta with Basil Pesto and Shrimp. The Pesto was fantastic. The fettuccini was perfect as were the shrimp. Topped it off with a ½ liter of white wine. Afterward some coffee and espresso.

Met a couple next to us from Scotland who raised sheep as a hobby so we learned a lot about birthing the kids, the work and the problems. They’ve come here for 12 years, always the same hotel, and this year always this restaurant. Very interesting couple.

Back to room at 9:30. Great day. Time to shower again, write up the day and relax in the sun room, plan the trip to Cassis tomorrow and go to sleep. Another great day in Provence.

<b>Monday, June 14 - Cassis</b>

Mike up at 6:05! Bright blue sky, sun on the trees, turning the night into day. Let Karen sleep to 7:15. Karen can smell the hotel’s freshly baked croissants through the open bathroom window. Breakfast, too many good selections as usual.

It’s 120 Km (72 miles) to Cassis, mostly on the Autoroute du Soleil. Left at 9:10 and arrived 10:50.

Got a boat tour to visit 5 Calanques, which are coves, but some deeper into the rock, and the canyons they’re in range up to 750 feet high. At some people are swimming, at another diving, a la Acapulco, off the high cliffs, but not 750 feet worth. There are also mountain climbers on one of the cliff faces. We notice people hiking from calanque to calanque, reminiscent of our hike through the Cinque Terre. Very pretty and rough terrain and in some areas with channels, or windows, cut by water, wind, or just eons ago up thrusts of the earth. The tour lasted an hour; the seas were gentle and the sun bright.

Back to the marina to wander this quaint port town and off to find a seafood restaurant (ha ha). They’re all over so we really look for one with landlubber’s food.

Karen had a Provencal version of Cotolette Milanese (Escalope de Veau Panee) and Mike a starter of salmon and one other fish, thin sliced in oil and lime juice, then another fish in a tomato cause, but better with rice, une verre du vin blanc, and l’eau du robinet. This all followed by the house special dessert of baked apple with ice cream ball on top and a pastille, a pastry that looks like a thick hollow straw. Excellent of course.

Met a couple sitting next to us from Newport Beach, California who have a house in L’Isle sur la Sorge and live here half the year. They’ve lived here for 16 years. What a life! They did say though that living here in July and August is bad; hot, humid and lots of tourists.

After lunch we walked about a bit and about 3:15 left for St. Remy.

Got home about 4:45 and laid out in the sun room, wrote up the day, did the pictures and just lazied around.

Showered up at 6:30. There was a heavy rain for about 10 minutes and because of the angle of the sun and light that shown through you could see every raindrop crystal clear in the air. But the rain stopped then and we were out at 7:20 for dinner at Bar-Tabac les Alpilles again.

We spotted our new friends from Scotland having dinner there again too. This time though we added a salad and dessert. Both of us had the same main course. The ravioli and the pasta with pesto and shrimp were just too good to pass up. Dessert was an apple tarte with ice cream.

Got done about 9:15 and back to the hotel by 9:30. Just one more night. The time to end this great vacation approaches too quickly.

<b>Tuesday, June 15 - Aigues Mortes</b>

It rained all night as Mike woke first time at 4. He’s up at 6:30 with the rain now a drizzle, and steady, but it sounds nice against the roof of the sun room. Maybe it’ll be gone either when we leave, unlikely, or when we get further South. Cool out so it’ll be interesting in shorts and a short shirt.

We’re out at 9 after another big breakfast at Le Mas. Today we’re off to Aigue Mortes down in the Camargue region. We debated whether to head to the Camargue or to Aix and decided to go this direction for something different.

Easy drive down, raining lightly most of the way. Got to Aigues Mortes at 10:20, only 70 Km. Found a parking lot right next to the town wall outside the main porte.

This town is the only medieval fortified town left in France. Walked through the streets, with umbrella’s, though it was only a light rain, then took the tourist train for a ride around the inside and outside walls with commentary.

Then the clouds started to break, sun showing in patches, just in time to walk the ramparts of the wall without the umbrellas. It’s still quite surprisingly chilly though. That walk took almost an hour and a half. Once you start the walk on the ramparts you must go all the way around. The town is pretty big for 1270 and the walls were thick with many towers. Besides loads of slits in the walls for the archers there also are numerous outcropping’s, covered areas with stone slabs for seats set with a hole in them to be used as latrines. Pity the poor attacker who stepped too close to the wall base. As we enter one of the towers, there is a “guard cat” waiting for us. So cute, he greats us with a loud meow and starts rubbing against our legs.

This time we decided not to have a big lunch as we have reserved dinner tonight at the hotel. So we got two chicken sandwiches, one would have been enough to share, and an iced tea, all for 11€. Then went for one more stroll back to the main square in the sun, picked up another Gault house, a Provence one, and some more postcards, then headed back to St. Remy at 2 since we want to look in the art galleries and wander one last time.

We lucked out as shortly after we left Aigue Mortes it started to rain and did so all the way back. Not real heavy, so we could walk Remy with umbrellas to look in the art galleries.

Found a very nice oil by a locally known artist, a typical Provence scene with beautiful red poppies. As happens every year, our first major purchase like this gets denied on VISA and we have to call Citi to tell them it’s really us. But they then release the hold on the card and we should be good to go for the rest of the trip. We’ve been spending cash only for 99% of our purchases so we’re not surprised they were alert on this one. But now the rain is heavier and we need to gas the car.

The TI showed us on a map where the cheap gas was but the road to go that way was a zoo. So Mike found another way, using more streets, to get around the traffic jam and in the process ran right into the other gas station, who was only slightly more expensive (1.24€/Liter). We pulled in, dieseled up, and were out of there in minutes.

Back to the room, packed up everything except for what we’d need for tonight and tomorrow and at 5 rested. Dinner’s at 7:30 and though the main course is fish, they prepare Karen a non fish special. Really nice people.

Back from dinner. They made Karen a beef tenderloin. OK, probably leftover from the other day, good, but not as great as first night, and Mike’s Turbot was good not great, but that just may be Turbot. Dinner was done at 9:45 (that’s 2 ¼ hours), very relaxed meal, with the usual aperitif, amuse bouche, appetizer, main, cheese course, dessert, tonight three variations on pineapple, and coffees.

Back to the room to pack, sleep and up about 6am.

<b>Wednesday, June 16 - iDTGV from Avignon to Paris CDG</b>

Up at 6 as planned. Bags loaded at 7:45. Breakfast room opens at 8 and we’re on the road at 8:30.

Easy drive, one or two missed turns, then a bit of confusion trying to find the car return, but done and on the track at 9:15. The train is late by 20 minutes. We see on the TV that there are floods in Toulon, in SW Provence. It looks bad there. We were lucky we didn’t run into those kinds of rain and flooding.

We lug the bags and our new basket filled with goodies onto the train; we’re in our reserved seats in the “quiet train” and it leaves at 9:51. Cloudy the whole way but we also manage to see a field of lavender in full bloom. Now we wait for Paris. The TGV is great. There’s a 240v outlet for the PC so Mike can do a little work.

Arrived Paris Gare de Lyon at 12:30 and met the limo. (We made a mistake when we reserved our train tickets to not go directly to the CDG airport from Avignon). Agnes arranged for the limo to pick us up at the train station and take us to the airport Novotel. The limo driver was waiting for us when we pulled into the station.

We arrived at the hotel at 1:15. Room wasn’t ready so we got two tickets for free drinks, got some lunch, Mike Chicken breast, frites and salad and Karen a Penne with Pesto and ice cream, and then checked in.

We thought of taking the RATP Bus to Paris but it was 3:15 and you had to get the bus to CDG and then the RATP, at 8€ each, each way, which would be 32€, and we would not get there until 4:30. We were a bit tired, and probably touristed out, and instead decided to walk to and visit the town of Roissy en France.

This turned out to be a good idea. The town is small, with beautifully kept streets and grounds and parks. They had historical signs up with pictures from the town’s past.

Back to the hotel and down for dinner at 7. Karen had a salad, Panini, frites and ice cream, Mike some scallops and nice mashed type potatoes.

Then up to room, showered, and to bed about 10:30. The room is freezing; we have not needed air conditioning the entire trip and it feels cold to us.

<b>Thursday, June 17 - CDG to DFW </b>

Mike is up at 6 (though multiple times during the night). Out to the 8:00 bus, at CDG by 8:20, through security by 8:30, no one is here so there are no lines. Now we just wait until 11:45 for our flight.

Mike’s Platinum status allows us to use the Admiral’s Club. Ate breakfast there, good selection, and waited for the call for our flight. Nice way to relax at the end of the trip and before the long flight home.

Because of a change of equipment our seats changed. We still have exit rows, but it’s the bulkhead row right next to the exit door. Lots of leg room. Only one disaster, sort of. In giving the flight attendant her half-used drink can it slipped from her hand. Drink spilled all over Karen’s blanket, through to her pants. She now looks like she wet herself. But, you need to keep your sense of humor (easy for Mike since he’s dry), and she got a new blanket and cleaned up and then came lunch. The usual airplane food, not what we’ve been used to.

Landed early at DFW, 2:35PM, but all that means is wait. We finally got out of customs about 3:45 and met our friend Steve. Home and the usual unpacking and mail review, then to bed at early. Hard to think it’s over.

This was one of those times we both didn’t look forward to going home. The trip was great, nothing went wrong, the weather cooperated, the food was great, we never had a meal we didn’t enjoy, the sights and places we went and saw were interesting, the hotels and the Roussillon house were better than imagined, and all the people we met, French or otherwise, were friendly and nice and interesting to talk to. We’re already thinking about returning next year.

- Fini -

Suzanne2

Very nice report and lovely pictures.

FrenchMystiqueTours

I'll second Suzanne2's comments. You two seem like very nice, easygoing people.

marcy_

Thanks, Mike and Karen, for your lovely trip report. My husband and I visit Provence just about every year, so these are all places we know and love. Your report just makes me more eager to go back right away.

Thanks for posting!

LouisvilleCO

You mentioned the book "A Year in Provence". Did you happen to drive by Peter Mayle's house - the one he lived in and wrote about in his book? It is just outside of Menerbes on the "back" road to Bonnieux. We rented a place in Menerbes a few years ago and I jogged past the house. I had just finished reading the book on the flight over so it was really special to see the house and the area. Also a little sad to see how much the area has changed since Mayle wrote about it.

mimipam

Love your report. It has been a few years since we were in Provence. Loved it. Your report makes me want to return. Great pictures as well. Thanks!!!

winnick

Fodorite, thanks for all your comments.

Louisville: We missed Peter Mayle's house. I guess this means we will need to plan another trip to Provence! We are already planning to return to France next year, checking out the Dordogne region as a lot of Fodorites have recommended this area.

Mimipam: Have you posted any pictures of your recent trip?

AGM_Cape_Cod

Thanks for the tour of Provence. We stayed in that room at Le Mas Des Carassins the last time we were in Provence. Unfortunately we had the Mistral for the days we were there.

aussie_10

Loved your trip report.

We were in Paris, Provence and Dordogne last Set/Oct. We stayed 2 weeks in Provence and visited and did many of the sames things as you. It brought back lovely memories and I could visualise myself back driving those roads and villages. We too went to Arles, Pont du gard and Cassis. I also wrote a trip report, if you look at it you will be amazed at the similarities.

And we almost stayed at Villa Quatre Saisons, but as there were 6, of us not enough bathrooms. So much in common, and of course I have to go back!

JulieVikmanis

Really nice report.
Thanks for all the work on it.

We were in Provence at about the same time as you. Can you tell me more about Pernes les Fontaines? Did you actually see fountains? We stopped. There was a market going on. We asked some guys at the market how to get to the tourist office. They kind of chuckled and pointed us across the creek. We got there. It was closed. We walked by the same guys 2 or 3 more times. Never saw a single fountain.

In almost every small place I've ever been, you can count on seeing at least one fountain in town. This place claims 40 (or 36, 37, 38, as various reports said) and I never saw one. Where were they?

winnick

Julie,

Based on the number of pictures (8) we took in Pernes it was not very impressive. Of the eight, three were of fountains. We did not spend a lot of time there. The other problem is the market I'd guess. Many times we found when a market was in progress it was hard to make out the street for the umbrellas and tents.

kevin_widrow

Julie,

Pernes is a fascinating village with a lot of history and some well preserved medieval building and gates. There are many, many fountains strung throughout the historic center. You can't go more than a few steps without bumping into one. It's a village well worth the stop and an hour or two to stroll around. Note though that it is not a perched village. It's in the pain surrounding Avignon. So that means there's not much in the way of pretty views.

If memory serves, it's also quite a bit less touristy than it's much more famous neighbors (Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and Fontaine de Vaucluse).

-Kevin

marcy_

<< It's in the pain surrounding Avignon.>>

Kevin, is that a Freudian slip? I've often thought that the roads/traffic surrounding Avignon are a pain! ;-)

winnick

Aussie, I plan to read your report. Which area did you like best, Provence or Dordogne? We are planning another trip to France next year, thinking of Dordogne.

hopingtotravel

Thanks for taking the trouble to report. Well-written, and brought back memories of our 2005 trip.

sap

Thank you, Winnicks, for such a well-done report with fabulously useful details! (Great pics, too.)

rygsa647

What an incredibly detailed and interesting trip report ! Will make good use of your impressions during our trip next September. Merci beaucoup !

Uma

Your trip report and pictures were great(and so timely) as we will be basing in Avignon at Hotel d' Europe in Sept.,visiting some of the same towns and villages. Glad to hear you enjoyed that hotel.

winnick

Thanks to everyone for their positive comments. We have so enjoyed reading fellow Fodorite suggestions when we planned our trip. We hope that this report helps some of you in your planning.

Rygsa647 / Uma: I'm sure you will love your trip to Provence as we did. I look forward to reading your trip report when you return. We can't wait until next year to return to France.

elsiejune

Thanks for sharing this wonderful report. Your pictures are especially fabulous. EJ