so to continue:
Day three we ambled along the banks of the Seine to the Musee Orsay to indulge one of my passions, Impressionist art. unfortunately we didn't realize there was a major Manet exhibit - it is clear the French love their art. the lines were immense, so of course by the time we actually got in the poor tootsies were tired again, but nonetheless loved it. We then took the Metro to the Marais. Being Jewish it was deeply meaningful to me to see Jewish life alive and well and living in Paris. We enjoyed the Carnavalet and the Museum of Jewish HIstory - both very moving in their own ways. Dinner that night at Le Petit Chatelet on the left bank right across from Notre Dame. Lovely owner and waiter and truly delicious food (as well as humorous incidents of Americans spilling red wine on Russian tourist white jacket - (not us thank goodness) - ouch)
Day four visited the Cluny which I loved, then wandered over to St. Sulpice and St. Germain De Pres - both exquisitely beautiful and holy churches - and then I insisted we had to honor Hemmingway with lunch at Deux Maggots - truly fun. home to rest and then to the Louvre for late hours. Disgusted by the tourists madly taking pictures of the Mona Lisa in spite of the signs all over forbidding photos - and no one actually looking at it. In the spirit of honoring our pasts we enjoyed most the Assyrian exhibit which is my husbands ethnic background - those guys knew how to make statues!
Only disappointing dinner of our Paris sojourn, following the recommendation of Frommers we went to Le Vaudeville across from the bourse: hurried, rude service, no help understanding menu which in spite of my passable french I couldn't decipher, husband traumatized by steak tartare - he had to stop on the way home to ease his heart at McDonalds leading to our only squabble of the trip.
Final day in Paris we start off early on the RER headed towards Versaille - except we weren't - discovering we took the wrong C line, a kindly man sent us back to the city where we changed trains and finally arrived around 1 pm. starving we bent our principles to eat in the Mexican restaurant near the station, but after the waitress sneazed on the food I kinda lost my appetite.
Took a tour of the Kings Apartments with only 5 other English speakers, one of whom was sure she was the reincarnation of Maria Antoinette (no comment). Personally I wasn't that taken with Versaille - it was so over the top I kept thinking, how could anyone live here? plus the conspicuous consumption - well I guess if you're a king that's what you do. favorite part was the Hall of Paintings depicting French military victories, loved the historical perspective it gave.
To comfort ourselves after the prior nights debacle we returned to the Isle St. Louis, our favorite dining venue, and found another lovely little restuarant whose name I can't recall but will share later - perfect cassolet putting the smile back on hubbies face.
Then back to Hotel Britannique to prepare for our next days rendezvous with French Mystique Tours and our further adventures in Normandy and the Loire...
thanks everyone for your comments, stay tuned tomorrow for the next segment.
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so to continue: