Trip Report Part 2: Cinque Terre with Family
Aug 23rd, 2004, 07:27 PM
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Trip Report Part 2: Cinque Terre with Family
We returned from a three-week trip (a week south of Siena, a week in Monterosso, and a week in London). This entry chronicles our second week in the Cinque Terre. My husband and our two boys (ages 4 and 7), my mom and sister did the trip and my other sister and her 11-year-old daughter met us for the Italian parts. We are pretty experienced travelers and have traveled together before. Hope the length is not too long.
Saturday: After checking out from our Tuscan villa we headed toward Monterosso. It was a pretty easy drive and we stopped near Viareggio for sandwiches at the beach from one of the many cafes.
Because we had rented an apartment in Monterosso we were able to drive into the parking lot in the new town. There is a playground right by this parking lot. Our villa was perfectly placed just across the street from the beach and we swam on the free beach each morning and evening. The apartment was the entire third floor of a building and it was a spacious, beautiful home with magnificent windows opening onto the Mediterranean. My sister and niece took the train from Siena and they arrived in Monterosso at the same time we did.
That night we had our first of three dinners at Pizzeria Bagni Fegina on the new town beach. It was tasty, pleasant and the staff was very nice to us.
Sunday: My sisters did the entire Cinque Terre trail. They had a great lunch at Gambero Rosso in Vernazza and took the ferry back to Monterosso at the end of the hike. The rest of us set off to return the rental van. My mother?s family is from a small mountain town outside of Genoa so we?d planned to visit it on our way to Genoa. We last visited the village about ten years ago and it had not changed. The kids loved exploring the winding streets and seeing where grandma had gone to kindergarten.
We dropped the van off at the airport and took the bus to the train station. After dinner we got gelato and ventured into old town where the kids discovered the big, blowup slide in the main square (next to another playground). Gelato and the slide became their nightly ritual. Our favorite gelato was from the shop in new town right before the tunnel. The man became very friendly with the boys and the younger one loved the homemade Popsicles.
Monday: We relaxed on the beach, splurging for chair rentals. The boys had a great time playing with a raft in the water. In the late afternoon we explored old town and walked up to the Capuchin Church. We ate dinner at the Ciak Ristorante La Lampara. I agree with those who have raved about the seafood antipasti and complained about the uncomfortable outdoor seating.
Tuesday: My husband and I walked the trail from Monterossa to Vernazza and met the others in the square in Vernazza. We had a great lunch at the Pizzeria Vulnetia and poked in the shops. The boys loved this beach, the younger one liked the shallow, calm water and the sand; the older one loved exploring the rocks. We also climbed the Tower. There is a small playground by the train station.
Wednesday: This morning we hiked from Vernazza to Corniglia where the others met us. They had taken the bus up to the town from the train station. After coffees we all set out to do the easy walk to Manarola. The stairs down from Corniglia were not a problem and this trail is relatively flat. We split up for lunch so some could have a nicer lunch, and we had a more relaxed lunch with the kids.
After lunch we all continued and walked the last leg to Riomaggiore, an even easier, flatter section. After a break at the harbor in Riomaggiore, where we jumped off the rocks, we took the elevator up and walked down through town. On the walk back to Manarola for dinner we stopped at a small bar and had drinks overlooking Riomaggiore and the water.
In Manarola we divided up again. I took the kids and got a carryout pizza while the others had a nicer dinner at La Scogliera. We ate our pizza at the playground overlooking Manarola and watched the sun go down. The flowers at this park are exquisite and we met the man who cares for them. He was impressed with the Italian the boys had learned. We had taught them some basics ? my name is, thank you, etc. We caught the train back about 8:30.
Thursday: We hung out in Monterosso and visited the market in old town. It was fun and there were many Italians shopping for produce, shoes and other goods. After lunch we took the train to Vernazza and rented a motorboat through the Cinque Terre Dive Shop. They rent right from the Vernazza harbor. We spent the afternoon viewing the towns from the sea and swimming from the boat. This was the highlight of our week and I would highly recommend getting a boat or kayak if possible!
We rode the train to Riomaggiore for dinner and ate at a small pizzeria in the middle of town.
Friday: For our last day we decided to let my sister walk the whole trail again. We met her in Vernazza and swam at that beach (the boys? favorite). We ate at the Castle restaurant and they were probably the nicest staff we encountered in Italy. They completely doted on the boys and brought chocolates for them. The view is pretty incredible too.
After lunch we took the train to Manarola and waited at the playground for my sister to walk there, then we all walked to Riomaggiore. Since we had not gone to the rocky beach, past the harbor, yet we swam there for a little while. The currents were pretty strong there and the younger boy did not like it as much as the calmer, sandy beaches.
We ate dinner in Monterosso and the boys met their friends at the big slide.
Saturday: Our week in the Cinque Terre had gone much too quickly and we caught a train for Bergamo. We had first class tickets and we did not realize that the train to Milan had assigned seats.
We stayed at the Hotel Arli, a business hotel four blocks from the train station. That afternoon we took the funicular to the old town where we walked up the tower and through the cathedral. To reward the boys we walked to Parco Suardi where there is a wonderful playground, good for all ages. We had an excellent dinner at Taverna Valtellinese, near our hotel and then our last Italian gelato.
Saturday: After checking out from our Tuscan villa we headed toward Monterosso. It was a pretty easy drive and we stopped near Viareggio for sandwiches at the beach from one of the many cafes.
Because we had rented an apartment in Monterosso we were able to drive into the parking lot in the new town. There is a playground right by this parking lot. Our villa was perfectly placed just across the street from the beach and we swam on the free beach each morning and evening. The apartment was the entire third floor of a building and it was a spacious, beautiful home with magnificent windows opening onto the Mediterranean. My sister and niece took the train from Siena and they arrived in Monterosso at the same time we did.
That night we had our first of three dinners at Pizzeria Bagni Fegina on the new town beach. It was tasty, pleasant and the staff was very nice to us.
Sunday: My sisters did the entire Cinque Terre trail. They had a great lunch at Gambero Rosso in Vernazza and took the ferry back to Monterosso at the end of the hike. The rest of us set off to return the rental van. My mother?s family is from a small mountain town outside of Genoa so we?d planned to visit it on our way to Genoa. We last visited the village about ten years ago and it had not changed. The kids loved exploring the winding streets and seeing where grandma had gone to kindergarten.
We dropped the van off at the airport and took the bus to the train station. After dinner we got gelato and ventured into old town where the kids discovered the big, blowup slide in the main square (next to another playground). Gelato and the slide became their nightly ritual. Our favorite gelato was from the shop in new town right before the tunnel. The man became very friendly with the boys and the younger one loved the homemade Popsicles.
Monday: We relaxed on the beach, splurging for chair rentals. The boys had a great time playing with a raft in the water. In the late afternoon we explored old town and walked up to the Capuchin Church. We ate dinner at the Ciak Ristorante La Lampara. I agree with those who have raved about the seafood antipasti and complained about the uncomfortable outdoor seating.
Tuesday: My husband and I walked the trail from Monterossa to Vernazza and met the others in the square in Vernazza. We had a great lunch at the Pizzeria Vulnetia and poked in the shops. The boys loved this beach, the younger one liked the shallow, calm water and the sand; the older one loved exploring the rocks. We also climbed the Tower. There is a small playground by the train station.
Wednesday: This morning we hiked from Vernazza to Corniglia where the others met us. They had taken the bus up to the town from the train station. After coffees we all set out to do the easy walk to Manarola. The stairs down from Corniglia were not a problem and this trail is relatively flat. We split up for lunch so some could have a nicer lunch, and we had a more relaxed lunch with the kids.
After lunch we all continued and walked the last leg to Riomaggiore, an even easier, flatter section. After a break at the harbor in Riomaggiore, where we jumped off the rocks, we took the elevator up and walked down through town. On the walk back to Manarola for dinner we stopped at a small bar and had drinks overlooking Riomaggiore and the water.
In Manarola we divided up again. I took the kids and got a carryout pizza while the others had a nicer dinner at La Scogliera. We ate our pizza at the playground overlooking Manarola and watched the sun go down. The flowers at this park are exquisite and we met the man who cares for them. He was impressed with the Italian the boys had learned. We had taught them some basics ? my name is, thank you, etc. We caught the train back about 8:30.
Thursday: We hung out in Monterosso and visited the market in old town. It was fun and there were many Italians shopping for produce, shoes and other goods. After lunch we took the train to Vernazza and rented a motorboat through the Cinque Terre Dive Shop. They rent right from the Vernazza harbor. We spent the afternoon viewing the towns from the sea and swimming from the boat. This was the highlight of our week and I would highly recommend getting a boat or kayak if possible!
We rode the train to Riomaggiore for dinner and ate at a small pizzeria in the middle of town.
Friday: For our last day we decided to let my sister walk the whole trail again. We met her in Vernazza and swam at that beach (the boys? favorite). We ate at the Castle restaurant and they were probably the nicest staff we encountered in Italy. They completely doted on the boys and brought chocolates for them. The view is pretty incredible too.
After lunch we took the train to Manarola and waited at the playground for my sister to walk there, then we all walked to Riomaggiore. Since we had not gone to the rocky beach, past the harbor, yet we swam there for a little while. The currents were pretty strong there and the younger boy did not like it as much as the calmer, sandy beaches.
We ate dinner in Monterosso and the boys met their friends at the big slide.
Saturday: Our week in the Cinque Terre had gone much too quickly and we caught a train for Bergamo. We had first class tickets and we did not realize that the train to Milan had assigned seats.
We stayed at the Hotel Arli, a business hotel four blocks from the train station. That afternoon we took the funicular to the old town where we walked up the tower and through the cathedral. To reward the boys we walked to Parco Suardi where there is a wonderful playground, good for all ages. We had an excellent dinner at Taverna Valtellinese, near our hotel and then our last Italian gelato.
Aug 24th, 2004, 05:17 AM
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For our week in Monterosso we splurged and stayed in the apartment Bouganville. It was wonderful, with spacious rooms and glorious views (and breezes). It was on the main street in new town, about a block from the train station. It was pricey (more than double what we normally budget), but if I ever had the money and people with us, we would return in a minute!
Aug 24th, 2004, 06:02 AM
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What a great week you had on the Cinque Terre. I love renting boats and being able to travel the waters and swim off of them. It took us a couple of trips before we realized you can rent these boats. I just love the Cinque Terre, even if it is busy.
Aug 26th, 2004, 09:56 AM
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Sounds like a wonderful week. My husband & I are spending three nights in C.T. next month and will certainly look into renting kayaks/boat. Did you find it necessary to pack hiking shoes? Is the dress code more relaxed in this region, since it's a resort town (i.e, shorts & sandals)? Thanks in advance for any tips on what to pack for our time there.
Aug 26th, 2004, 12:17 PM
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All those parks and kids places you mentioned in the CT are great - I've hit them all with my little one. We esp. liked the park high above the bluff in Manarola and the little park in Vernazza by the train station. It is just wonderful there, we are going back next Weds. Sept 1st - can't wait!
While the CT is not as formal as Portofino, for example, it is no excuse to dress "sloppier" or more casual than you necessarily would. The Italians, no matter where they are, dress nice. I would definitely bring pants or a skirt (whichever is more comfortable for you), for eating out at restaurants at night. Hiking the trails in shorts is fine, but the local townspeople aren't in shorts so there is a distinction. I always bring my light-weight leather coat that can be worn with pants or over lighter items if it gets cold. The temp does drop at night towards mid/end of September so you will need something at night.
While the CT is not as formal as Portofino, for example, it is no excuse to dress "sloppier" or more casual than you necessarily would. The Italians, no matter where they are, dress nice. I would definitely bring pants or a skirt (whichever is more comfortable for you), for eating out at restaurants at night. Hiking the trails in shorts is fine, but the local townspeople aren't in shorts so there is a distinction. I always bring my light-weight leather coat that can be worn with pants or over lighter items if it gets cold. The temp does drop at night towards mid/end of September so you will need something at night.
Aug 26th, 2004, 06:16 PM
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Yes, it was a weekly rental. The website http://italianvillas.com/db/view.pl?659-1
lists Bouganville priced between $1390 and 2350. It also lists a 2 week minimum in August! It was way more than we usually pay, but it was wonderful to be central to everything, and really suited our extended family. It certainly slept 6 people comfortably.
I hiked in tennis shoes. My husband and sister have a cross between tennis shoes and hiking shoes, they got them at Lands End.
I agree with Huitres that while the CT is not as fancy as some areas, it is still Italian, and they dress always dress smart. We each had a dress and skirt, but also felt comfortable in shorts and sandals.
lists Bouganville priced between $1390 and 2350. It also lists a 2 week minimum in August! It was way more than we usually pay, but it was wonderful to be central to everything, and really suited our extended family. It certainly slept 6 people comfortably.
I hiked in tennis shoes. My husband and sister have a cross between tennis shoes and hiking shoes, they got them at Lands End.
I agree with Huitres that while the CT is not as fancy as some areas, it is still Italian, and they dress always dress smart. We each had a dress and skirt, but also felt comfortable in shorts and sandals.
