Trip Report Paris & Rome, Naples, Amalfi Coast Sept 2011

Loving it already. Can hardly wait for Rome.

p.s.: it's never too late for a trip report imo!

And the only way to get it finished is to start!

Rome, please...

Peter

Good morning everyone, and thanks so much for the comments.

Today we start Bella Roma!

J was in charge of getting almond croissants before we got on the plane from Paris to Rome on Saturday AM. We were both anxious that E had gotten out of NYC. We hadn’t heard anything via email, so we were cautiously optimistic. Of course we had to bring almond croissants with us, because what if we ran out of delicious food?

J scored the croissants, and I waited for the Paris Shuttle, which our hotel had ordered. It showed up right on time - and we got to the airport quickly. We had made arrangements to have a car pickup when we arrived in Rome and they were waiting for us when we arrived at the airport. E took a cab when she finally arrived from NYC - and by late afternoon the three of us were together - in beautiful Rome.

Our hotel: Residenza Canali, just north of Piazza Navona on Via dei Coronari.
I love this hotel. We only stay in the rooftop terrace rooms. These are the only two rooms on the top landing. Warning - it’s five flights of flights up -- no lift. Worth every step, plus, burning calories. Each room has a spacious terrace. Rooms could be updated - but they are big - very clean and the terraces are amazing. Each room has a mini fridge. Big windows, lots of sun. The A/C could be better - we are often there in early September and it’s HOT, but we just call the front the desk and ask them to send someone up to look at the unit. The two best parts of this hotel are the location - can’t be beat - and the staff. They are friendly, knowledgeable and very helpful -- they just couldn’t be nicer.

The Coffee; So, here we are -- my beloved Rome. It’s Saturday, 9/3. Today (And by now it’s 2:30 PM)...we’re off to do the “neighborhood.” J and I have been here several times. E joined us for our last trip, and like us, fell deeply in love with Rome, so this first day back, is special for all of us.

We go, of course...first to San Eustacio, my favorite cafe in Rome.
http://www.santeustachioilcaffe.it stumbling over our feet as we gaze at the Pantheon raptly in passing, but it must wait...till after the first, frothy, delicious, long awaited cappucino. And yes....a cardinal sin...cappucino after noon!

Several cups later, it’s time to make the rounds. Our travels in the neighborhood (always) take us to the Pantheon, to my mind one of the greatest sights on earth (an A++ site!). Next, we visit Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, right next door, and sit quietly in the nave, drinking in the gorgous blue ceiling overhead. One of my all time favorite churches!

Just a note here about the A+ sites, etc. To my mind, any day, or excursion or site in Italy is better than sitting in my office. As E says “Italy is an A+ site.” However, there are some things, that just touch me, personally, very much. If my friend E asks me, if I’ve been here, or there and to me, it’s a place or experience that CANNOT be missed, I’ll reply “It’s an A+ site.” Silly, I know - but there you go. Today was about visiting our favorite A+ favorites.

So, next we were off to the Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio di Loyola (another of my favorites) with a truly special ceiling. I love this church for many reasons, one of which is that the church has put a large rectangular mirror on the floor facing the ceiling. (I think it’s this church!) This makes it possible to gaze at the ceiling without having to have sit in the nave with your head bent all the way backwards as you examine the art on the ceiling. It’s hot today, and I’ve thrown a lightweight shawl over my sleeveless tee shirt to sit in church.

Next, the Campo dei Fiori for some food shopping and snacks to stock up. If you haven’t gotten lunch at Al Forno - ..I bet it will be on your list after you watch this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OStb8ac3KSE

Delicious! After lunch, you cannot miss Al Fornaio, the best place for pastries, right around the corner. Do not miss the cherry tarts! Lucky we have a fridge. My sister J discovered mortadella on this trip. She loves it! Why is the food there so much better than the food here? Has anyone established that?

Then it’s time for a walk around Piazza Navona, checking out the stunning fountains and dinner. We ate at Osteria del Pegno and each had an outstanding pasta with funghi. This is a very pretty restaurant with very good food - highly recommended.

E, who is running on caffeine (who knew they sold Red Bull in Rome?) actually went to the Trevi, bless her. I fell into bed.

Fun report. We have spent our last 3 vacations in Paris and will hit Rome this Fall. Taking notes and I appreciate the information...had already planned on hitting Al Forno (can't wait)!

Hi Susan G.
Great to hear a trip report by someone who loves Rome as much as I do. Its such a complex city and,in my opinion,a most beautiful one on every level; architecture, food, restaurants etc. Looking foreward to more.

Susan,
I can't wait to read more. My girlfriend and I are planning a simular trip with the exception of Paris. Your report has me so excited and taking notes on your suggestions. Thank you!

Fun report - can't wait to read more !

Hi you guys, thanks so much for your comments. I'm so glad to hear that you guys are planning trips to Rome! Don't you agree that the planning is part of the fun? BTW, for those of you (Colleen) who love Rome and all its complexity (such a great word for it... thanks for putting it that way.) I highly recommend this book: http://www.amazon.com/Rome-Cultural-Visual-Personal-History/dp/0307268446
by Robert Hughes, perhaps you've read it? It's absolutely amazing what this man knows. I am fascinated by it and can't even get through it because I keep going back to parts of it. Ok, off to put up flyers for a lost cat - next installment tonight.

Well thanks SusanG, you managed to make me drool thanks to the YouTube video!

I have never been to Paris but enjoyed that part of your TR and since I too love Rome is is so much fun to read about your experiences and I look forward to the next installment.

Now off to find something to eat although it will not be as wonderful as the food from Al Forno, sigh. You brought back great memories!

Loving this trip report. We've stayed at the Residenza Canali and plan to return there. Its location is superb!

Excellent report!

Yes, Al Forno is now on my list! While I always go to bakeries in France, I never go to bakeries in Italy. Clearly that needs to change...yum.

Thanks so much, everyone, for your positive comments. It’s lovely to know that you guys share this love of travel. My sister reminds me I should say that at the Canali, they kindly take your suitcases up to the top floor as that is such a daunting task.

Today, I’m lying in my bed, working on this installment. It’s cloudy and cold - and I’m looking at grey skies. Writing this transports me back to Italy.

Sunday, Monday, Tuesday: First stop, Palazzo Altemps. A beautiful ancient sculpture museum in Rome, just north of Piazza Navona. One of the four museums of Rome. Buy your ticket here and use it at Palazzo Massimo, the Baths of Diocletion and one other site that I never made it to. Altemps is well worth visiting. It’s an A+ site! Plus, it’s literally one block north of Piazza Navona, making it an easy stop. They offer a great audio tour.

The building is a restored Renaissance palace. It houses the Ludovisi collection, which I believe was once in the gardens of a villa on the Via Vittorio Veneto. Among the works of art are the Ludovisi Ares (one of my favorite sculpures of all time), the Ludovisi Gaul and the Ludovisi Sarcophagus. Small museum, and I’ve never seen it crowded. If you like sculpture, you’ll want to visit.

We visited the Cryti Balbi, which E found for us. This was a great museum and archaeological site, but for some reason I can’t remember all the cool things we saw here. Darn it, when am I going to learn to keep a journal?? I do remember one interesting exhibit, which was a glass window, where they collected everything they found in a sewer, looking as it did when they unearthed it. Coins, buttons, etc., all mixed in with sand. And some teeth! Very interesting. I will go back to this museum.

We also visited the Cat Sanctuary located here in the Area Sacra, for you animal lovers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8I1zsd578o

Rome is challenged with abandoned and feral cats - I really wanted to see this place and make a donation.

We visited Il Gesu this afternoon - another favorite church. And the highlight of the day for me - first time to Santa Maria del Popolo. The Piazza del Popolo itself was stunning on this lovely hot, sunny day, but almost too much to take in all at once. I am a huge Caravaggio fan, so you art lovers know this church blew me away. On the way to dinner we stopped at Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi (another one of my favorite churches) for....what else? More Caravaggios! To be able to stand in front of these paintings, well, there are no words to describe it. My sister says he’s a downer. Luckily E loves this artist as much as I do.

Either Monday or Tuesday, there was a strike. We tried to go the Palazzo Barbarini, and the Palazzo Massimo and the “schedule” got a little screwy. However, at some point during the juggling, we did make it to these places. Along with the Galleria Doria Pamphilj, Palazzo Corsini, and the Baths of Diocletion. With (of course) daily trips to Cafe Eustacio. You just have to go with the flow in Italy.

I love the Galleria Doria Pamphilj, and highly recommend it. I believe it is still in private ownership, which is mind boggling. The rooms and galleries are stunning and they have an amazing art collection. The one thing we were not able to get to was the Gallery Colonna. E found this for us on the last trip, and it was a highlight. Unfortunately, only open on Saturday mornings and we were not in Rome on a Sat AM this trip. For art lovers, an A++ site.

If you love archaeology, art, historic sites, frescos, or just plain cool Roman stuff, if you have not gone to the Palazzo Massimo, you must go. This was an A ++++ site, an absolute “blow me away”.. highlight of this trip. I can’t believe I didn’t know about it!! It’s one of the Museums of Rome, along with Altemps & Baths of Diocletion, so use the same ticket. E was responsible for finding this for us, and what a find it is. Unbelievable!

I won’t get into details, but I will tell you, in the basement they have cases with sceptres from the Emperors! From 312 AD! Crazy!
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1544019/Sceptre-from-Roman-emperor-exhibited.html.

The frescos on the top floor were unbelievable, accompanied by photos of them “in situ” before they were moved from the excavations. Funny, I just googled this museum and found a web site that describes this museum by saying:

“It's a veritable "Where have you been all my life?" experience for antiquities buffs.”

We also had some excellent dinners - in particular at Il Fico, near to the Chiesa de Santa Maria della Pace. I recommend the house white wine and the chianti classico. Delicious.

We did the 10 minute walk to the Castel Sant’Angelo almost every night - and crossed the bridge topped by Bernini’s gorgeous angels. Also recommend climbing to the top of the Castel SA at night, if you are lucky enough to catch it open....what a view. Don't forget the daily gelato stop: There is a wonderful gelato shop on the Via dei Coranari called Gelataria del Teatro.
http://www.lepetitfranceblog.com/2011/03/gelateria-del-teatro-rome.html

Wednesday - The Vatican! I have to accept that I will never, ever, get to see all the beautiful things I’d like to. Especially at the Vatican. The first few times I visited I tried to see everything. Climb the dome, visit the Sistine Chapel, the museums, the Stanze of Raphael, the Basilica, the Giotto fresco, etc.

Can’t do it. Last trip, we split it it into two mornings. One, the Basilica, the next morning the museums. That works well, if you have extra time.

Here’s a great website for the Vatican museums. You can actually look at the paintings on the walls on this interactive site - and target what you want to see.
http://mv.vatican.va/3_EN/pages/PIN/PIN_Main.html

I’m curious, has anyone done those “after hours,” tours of the Vatican? Can you see everything at night? It must be pretty dark.

Well, guys I was hoping to wrap up Rome tonight, but I’m zoning out. I am writing this on my Mac which I’m not familiar with and just lost half of Thursday and Friday. I’ll finish up Rome tomorrow and start in on Napoli, and the Amalfi Coast! Buonanotte!

Wrapping up Rome, on to Naples & Amalfi Coast

Our last two days in Rome, we visited the Borghese Gallery, did a walking tour and went to the Capitoline Museums. There has been a lot written about the Borghese gallery - so I won’t go into detail except to say that I love it. Another exceptional experience with stunning Bernini sculptures (how did this guy do it???) and marvelous paintings.

Book well in advance. We usually just ask our hotel to make reservations for us. The gallery limits the number of folks allowed in for every 2 hour time slot. That afternoon we did a walking tour with Through Eternity, titled “Underground Rome.” I really enjoyed it. Ancient Rome, under the current city. The best part about many of these tours is that they get you to place you might not see otherwise.

One of the places we visited on the tour was the Basilica of San Clemente which I had been to before and would recommend to anyone. You can actually walk down through the different levels of excavations to the bottom, which is a Mithrium from the 1st century, if you can believe it. Truly an amazing experience from an archaeological/history standpoint. Plus, the church is beautiful. We also visited numerous other underground sites, that I had not been to. A very enjoyable experience, 4 hours of walking which we loved. Great tour company - very easy to work with. The tour guide was very knowledgeable.

On Friday, we were wrapping up Rome! Getting ready to go on to Naples and the Amalfi Coast, which we had never been to before. J & I planned to come back for one day and night, but it was E’s last day. So, another exceptional expedition....the Capitoline Museums. We spent an entire morning there and I still don’t feel like I saw much of it. I enjoyed the Capitoline, but it is kind of blurry in my mind. I think at this point I was on art overload.

We then walked back to our hotel - traveling down through the Forum, which remains one of the most moving places in Rome for me, and back to our hotel.

Napoli and the Amalfi Coast. Saturday, we took the train to Naples and a cab from the train station to our hotel, the Hotel Miramare, located on the Bay of Naples. I am a fan of the train, I always get a seat reservation and go first class. I love the little cart where they serve drinks, I love just relaxing and looking out the window, watching Italy go by. We pack a picnic lunch, vegetables and fruit from the daily market at Campo dei Fiori, mortadella for my sister (!) fresh bread and cheese and wine.

The Hotel Miramare was very nice. I can’t dispute the comments on Trip Advisor. It is slightly worn. But the staff and owner are lovely and welcoming and the hotel looks over the Bay of Naples! The views looking out over Vesuvius were enchanting. I lost my reading glasses the last morning, and a staff member came in the room and helped me find them -- they were so kind. I would stay there again.

I had never been to this part of Italy before and with thoughts of my upcoming trip to Pompeii, the books I had read in preparation and listening to the stories of the eruption -- to see the volcano right there - WOW. Very powerful.

J and I were upgraded to a “waterfront,” room and the view out the window was breathtaking, especially later as night fell. We dropped our bags, grabbed a piece of pizza and got a cab to the The National Archaeological Museum of Naples, Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli. We came to Napoli specifically to see this museum. Another A+++ museum. It was interesting to be there, with the intention of seeing it before visiting Pompeii.

Let me add, keep your admission ticket handy. When you need a break (and you will!) exit the front door of the museum, go directly across the street and to your left is a little cafe on the corner. They made us some of the most delicious iced cappucinos we had on the entire trip. I think we had 3 each. Then we were ready for another two hours at the museum.

The museum has an exceptional collection of antiquities, including beautiful mosaics, sculptures, and frescos. Many objects come from excavations at Pompeii, and Herculaneum and that was the main reason we visited here, as we wanted to see it before we went to Pompeii. OMG! I almost forgot - this is where we saw the Farnese Hercules.
http://sights.seindal.dk/photo/9224,s1073f.html
Breathtaking!

I could have spent two full days here. There is a lot to see, and it’s all wonderful. But we were only in Naples overnight, and we had made arrangements to be picked up at our hotel and driven to our next stop - Positano. At this point we were (I think) 11 days into the trip. This was the one place we had a bad taxi experience. I was so tired, and out of it, we hailed a cab outside the museum, and told him where we wanted to go. I didn’t really know where we were, but I knew we wanted to head down the hill, and he headed in the opposite direction.

I asked him where he was going, and he mumbled something about traffico, and then said it would be, I don’t know, something like E50 to get us back to the hotel. Really, I felt sorry for him, because I lost it. I said no, grazie and asked him to pull over and let us out. He didn’t. I asked again, and he didn’t. So I opened the taxi door and started yelling. I’m quite sure this poor man had never experienced an angry New Yorker before. Suffice it to say, we then had to walk a considerable distance before we found another cab. I’m 100% certain I completely over-reacted, but I was tired and anxious. I’m equally sure he is still telling his friends about the crazy Americans in his cab, and justifiably so!

We did make it back to the hotel and I fell into bed. The following morning we left for Positano! Next and last installment...the Amalfi Coast & Capri.

So glad you took the trouble to do this - with all the ups and just an odd down or two it makes great reading...

Peter

Thanks so much for posting this great trip report! We're leaving for Rome in 10 days and I'm feeling a bit overloaded so I almost didn't open your report, but I'm so glad that I did. We're staying at the Residenza Canali, so it was great to hear your positive remarks about it. Loved the video too and that bakery will definitely be on our list!

How lovely to be surprised by an Italy TR. All of Italy as well but, Rome grabbed my heart the same way it did you, SusanG. Love to read about her. DH and I spent a lovely few days there at the end of a trip to Perugia. We both felt like we had come "home".

Can't wait to read about the rest of your trip.

Thank you, Susan,. for your great report!

I'm enjoying your trip with you.

Byrd

To SusanG- Like many others, you just whizz through Naples and do yourselves the injustice of really seeing Naples. You guys just go th the Museo and get out of Naples real quick. There is more to see in Naples than there is in Rome. As a matter of fact, there is only one city that may command more attention than Naples, and that is possibly Paris. You didn't go to Naples, you just passed by. Too bad.

Thanks for a wonderful report! I especially enjoyed your accounts of Paris & Rome, two of my favourite cities!

I will put Musee Jacquemart Andre on my list to visit in September! What an amazing mansion + collection of art! The cafe also looks like a charming place for lunch!

Hi everyone, and thanks so much for your positive comments! It makes me happy to know this is useful and/or fun. Waldo, we did indeed have to whiz through Naples, but unfortunately I have to work, and am on a tough time schedule. My hope is always that I'll visit a place and then get to go back and spend more time. I was thrilled to be able to see so many different, wonderful places on this trip. Final installment to come - everyone....one of the highlights of my life - visiting Pompeii!

Hi Susan, Your trip sounds fabulous...diid you visit Pompeii. I am planning my trip in September to Rome, Naples and want to visit Pompeii. We are not sure how to fit this in as we are not renting a car.

Joy, Rome to Naples and Pompeii is an easy train trip. Forum posters have recommended visiting the Naples Museum as part of your Pompeii experience.

Joy2, you may find this a help with your trip down here...

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/through-naples-to-sorrento-or-pompei.cfm

And this - from last August - should give a rough idea of the options for trains, although the exact times and fares may have changed a little by next September!

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/132196214

Peter

Hi susan, just found this!

quite excellent - I don't know what you sisters are talking about. humour is more than just telling jokes, tell them!

BTW, we stayed at the Britannique in Paris too - one of the nicest hotels I've stayed at in Paris and we'd be going there again, were it not for the price they wanted for March.