Trip Report: Paris and Lyon
Sep 26th, 2005, 03:29 PM
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Trip Report: Paris and Lyon
Just got back from five days in Paris followed by five days in Lyon. Had a blast, ate incredibly well, and thought I'd share some findings:
PARIS:
Sights-- Have been there many times, so we didn't do many typical tourist things. We did grab a seat and hang out at the Tuileries on a very pleasant afternoon; it's a great place for people-watching and relaxing. And we always make a trip to the Marche au Puces, the flea market in Porte du Clingnancourt. And we bought food, cheese and wine from the food shops along the Rue Cler in the 7th arrondissement and had an evening picnic on the Champ du Mars as the sun went down behind the Eiffel Tower and the tower lights came on; very nice.
Nicest surprise: made our first visit to the Lapin Agile cabaret in Montparnasse, and loved it! It was only about 12 euros each, and it was a wonderful evening with a handful of talented singers and musicians in a very traditional, intimate setting. Was a much better time than the Moulin Rouge, if you ask me. But be aware that while they serve drinks, they don't serve food, so make arrangements for eating beforehand.
Worst surprise: in the area around the Champs-Elysee (which we heard was worth a return shopping visit, but we didn't think so), we came across what seems to be an ongoign scam. Asian ladies come up to you on the street, say that as Chinese tourists they were only permitted to buy one bag/purse/wallet at the Louis Vuitton stores, and that they would like you to go in the store and buy another one for them. We were approached about this four times in one hour. We didn't go along with it, and neither did any of the locals we saw approached. Does anybody know what the deal is on this?
Restaurants -- Every time we go to Paris, we have one meal at Au Bon Accueil in the 7th Arr. near the Eiffel Tower. It's a small, lovely place that provides a wonderful fixed menu for about 30 Euros. The chef goes to the market at about 4 a.m. each day and puts together a menu based on the best things he finds there. Inside is warm and cozy, while sitting outside gives you an excellent view of the tower. We also try to work in a lunch at La Duree, a tea room on Rue Jacob near Saint Germain that has great atmosphere and service, wonderful tea, salads and club sandwiches and macaroons that are out of this world!
Places we tried for the first time:
L'Os a Moelle, 15th Arr. - This is a great out of the way place that's worth finding. The chef is a former student of Christian Constant, who has inspired a generation of followers in Paris with a philosophy of preparing simple meals perfectly and charging a reasonable price. We had a SIX-COURSE tasting menu for only 38 euros each. In addition to soup, cheese, and dessert, the meal included fois gras, rabbit, and monkfish. Our only complaint is that they gave the best seats to locals and put us in a "American table" back by the kitchen door where it got very hot and steamy. But I'd go back again in a heartbeat!
La Fontaine du Mars: a wonderful bistro on a little plaza with a fountain near the Champ du Mars in the 7th Arr. We had a wonderful terrine followed by spicy ground duck cooked with artichokes. Wonderful wine list with reasonable prices.
That's all for now. Will report later on Lyon, which was a new place for us where the food more than lived up to its billing!
PARIS:
Sights-- Have been there many times, so we didn't do many typical tourist things. We did grab a seat and hang out at the Tuileries on a very pleasant afternoon; it's a great place for people-watching and relaxing. And we always make a trip to the Marche au Puces, the flea market in Porte du Clingnancourt. And we bought food, cheese and wine from the food shops along the Rue Cler in the 7th arrondissement and had an evening picnic on the Champ du Mars as the sun went down behind the Eiffel Tower and the tower lights came on; very nice.
Nicest surprise: made our first visit to the Lapin Agile cabaret in Montparnasse, and loved it! It was only about 12 euros each, and it was a wonderful evening with a handful of talented singers and musicians in a very traditional, intimate setting. Was a much better time than the Moulin Rouge, if you ask me. But be aware that while they serve drinks, they don't serve food, so make arrangements for eating beforehand.
Worst surprise: in the area around the Champs-Elysee (which we heard was worth a return shopping visit, but we didn't think so), we came across what seems to be an ongoign scam. Asian ladies come up to you on the street, say that as Chinese tourists they were only permitted to buy one bag/purse/wallet at the Louis Vuitton stores, and that they would like you to go in the store and buy another one for them. We were approached about this four times in one hour. We didn't go along with it, and neither did any of the locals we saw approached. Does anybody know what the deal is on this?
Restaurants -- Every time we go to Paris, we have one meal at Au Bon Accueil in the 7th Arr. near the Eiffel Tower. It's a small, lovely place that provides a wonderful fixed menu for about 30 Euros. The chef goes to the market at about 4 a.m. each day and puts together a menu based on the best things he finds there. Inside is warm and cozy, while sitting outside gives you an excellent view of the tower. We also try to work in a lunch at La Duree, a tea room on Rue Jacob near Saint Germain that has great atmosphere and service, wonderful tea, salads and club sandwiches and macaroons that are out of this world!
Places we tried for the first time:
L'Os a Moelle, 15th Arr. - This is a great out of the way place that's worth finding. The chef is a former student of Christian Constant, who has inspired a generation of followers in Paris with a philosophy of preparing simple meals perfectly and charging a reasonable price. We had a SIX-COURSE tasting menu for only 38 euros each. In addition to soup, cheese, and dessert, the meal included fois gras, rabbit, and monkfish. Our only complaint is that they gave the best seats to locals and put us in a "American table" back by the kitchen door where it got very hot and steamy. But I'd go back again in a heartbeat!
La Fontaine du Mars: a wonderful bistro on a little plaza with a fountain near the Champ du Mars in the 7th Arr. We had a wonderful terrine followed by spicy ground duck cooked with artichokes. Wonderful wine list with reasonable prices.
That's all for now. Will report later on Lyon, which was a new place for us where the food more than lived up to its billing!
Sep 26th, 2005, 04:45 PM
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Enjoyed reading of your time in Paris.
I was curious to know whether you bought anything at the Marche au Puces!
I didnt get there this past trip and was a little disappointed about that.
I look forward to Lyon.
Sep 26th, 2005, 05:17 PM
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Thank you for a wonderful report.
My daydreaming usually starts with pulling a chair and sitting by the fountain in the Tuileries. Add a few great restaurants and I’ve got an incredible dream.
I can’t wait to read about Lyon.
My daydreaming usually starts with pulling a chair and sitting by the fountain in the Tuileries. Add a few great restaurants and I’ve got an incredible dream.
I can’t wait to read about Lyon.
Sep 27th, 2005, 05:49 AM
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damon_t -- You've brought back great memories of Paris. We are lucky enough to get there 1 or 2 times each year and two of our favorite restaurants, that we always make time for, are Au Bon Accueil and La Fontaine de Mars. Also, the rue Cler market! Looking forward to hearing about Lyon, a city we haven't made it to yet.
Sep 29th, 2005, 05:59 AM
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You "worst" comment made me laugh, as my husband and I were approached a LV a few years ago. A friend had wanted something from the store & after waiting in line for an hour (the only non-Japanese) we made our purchase, only to be accosted as you were outside the store. So, they are still at it. We go to Paris several times a year & don't do the Champs l'Elysee unless we have a good reason, too. Off next month for some great exhibits!
Nov 13th, 2005, 02:37 PM
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damon_t, thanks for the great Paris trip report. It's funny, we were also approached by 2 Chinese women on the Champs-Elysee back when we visited Paris last January. We actually agreed to help them (didn't know better) but ended up not buying anything because we didn't carry out passports with us that day. We still can't figure out how the scam works. Any ideas?
Thanks for the restaurant reviews. Will add them to our list for the next visit.
Please post your trip report for Lyon soon. We are planning a trip to Paris and Lyon next January so we'd love to read about your experience, especially about restaurants. We love food!
Thanks! And can't wait to hear more from you.
Thanks for the restaurant reviews. Will add them to our list for the next visit.
Please post your trip report for Lyon soon. We are planning a trip to Paris and Lyon next January so we'd love to read about your experience, especially about restaurants. We love food!
Thanks! And can't wait to hear more from you.
Nov 13th, 2005, 04:09 PM
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We were approached by the Chinese ladies too. I was curious and did a little research. I came up with two differnt theries. The first is that you purchase the items using you credit card and they give you cash that is conterfit. the other is that they give you cash to make thhe purchase and then claim you short changed them. They threaten to summon the police if you don't pay up. We were also approached by people claiming to have found gold rings on the sidewalk there. I have no clue as to what that was all about.
We are going next week to Paris. I appreciate your restaurant reviews and have made note of them.
We are going next week to Paris. I appreciate your restaurant reviews and have made note of them.
Nov 27th, 2005, 08:37 AM
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Nice little report. We enjoyed L'Os a Moelle, too. Does anyone know what the name translates to? I was told it means brains. We have also been approached by the Chinese girls so would be curious to find out what that scam is.
Looking forward to your Lyon report as we hope to go there next summer as well.
Looking forward to your Lyon report as we hope to go there next summer as well.
Nov 27th, 2005, 09:12 AM
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L'os a moelle means "marrow bone", the marrow being the soft fatty tissue inside the bone that also contains the blood-forming cells (that make up the blood that circulates in your veins and arteries).
Nov 27th, 2005, 09:43 AM
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Hi Ronda,
when I read Therese's explanation I feel disgusted, because I love l'os à moelle! (on bread with a little salt on top)
you can find it in "le pot au feu" "blanquette de veau", "osso bucco". You can eat it or leave it (to me! ;-))
when I read Therese's explanation I feel disgusted, because I love l'os à moelle! (on bread with a little salt on top)you can find it in "le pot au feu" "blanquette de veau", "osso bucco". You can eat it or leave it (to me! ;-))
Nov 27th, 2005, 11:49 AM
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Odd that a restaurant would be named bone marrow. I really didn't see it on the menu, course perhaps it was there but I didn't recognize the dish.
By the way, L'Os a Moelle has a wine bar across the street. We didn't have a chance to go there, but I heard the wine is very inexpensive, there are two seatings, and the menu is set - family style. We didn't try it because certain persons with us might have been unhappy if they didn't have a choice.
By the way, L'Os a Moelle has a wine bar across the street. We didn't have a chance to go there, but I heard the wine is very inexpensive, there are two seatings, and the menu is set - family style. We didn't try it because certain persons with us might have been unhappy if they didn't have a choice.
