I returned a couple of weeks ago from 10 fabulous days in Paris. Four of us arrived at CDG 7:30 p.m. on Bastille Day. We took Parishuttle (had about 30 min. wait)to our hotel, the Mayfair in the 1st Arr. We checked in, dropped our bags in our rooms, freshened up and walked the two minutes to the Place de la Concorde to watch the fireworks behind the Eiffel tower. The area and bridges were crowded with locals and tourists and the fireworks display was quite a spectacular welcome to Paris.
Our rooms at the Mayfair were clean, large by european standards, and one had a balcony overlooking the street. The bathrooms were huge with all the mod cons you'd need. The staff was delightful and helpful. But it was the location that was perfect. A short walk to the Seine, Louvre, Madeleine, Opera Garnier, metro stop - really the best location imaginable.
To be continued...
Trip report Paris and a couple of sidetrips
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Perfect timing. Was this your first time in Paris?
Hi J,

That was very nice of the French to welcome you with a fireworks show.
"More please"...
Sorry for the interruption and a correction. We were in Paris 8 days - I mistakenly counted the days in travel.
Two of us had been to Paris before and two hadn't. We were four ladies from our book club who voted on the location - we made the best choice.
The next morning we bought a 3 day museum pass and took the Batobus for an overview. We went to St. Chappelle, Notre Dame (climbed up all those stairs), walked the Isle de St. Louis. We ate lunch in a tiny cafe on the left bank outside in the shade. It was very hot and humid. That also called for a Berthillion ice cream - yum. In the evening we had a wonderful dinner at Mandalay Ray. The atmosphere, service and food were great. We walked on the Champs Elysees in the evening and a bit on the Rue de Rivoli (near our hotel) before hitting our beds, exhausted.
The next day we went to the Cluny (magnificent if you are interested in Medieval history) and the Orsay (my personal favorite). Another sidewalk cafe lunch. That night we attended the ballet at the Opera Garnier - this may have been THE highpoint - I don't know though, there were so many. We purchased tickets at home a couple of months before our trip and got box seats in the second balcony center - a fabulous spot. The Chagal ceiling, opulant surroundings, beautifully performed ballet (Roland Petit) contributed to an unforgetable evening. I'll do this again.
On the way back to our hotel - again, everything was within walking distance, we walked through the Place Vendome and found the Hemingway Bar in the Ritz Hotel. The place was deserted - maybe it was too late? Too early? Out of style?
On day three we went to Versailles - another of those pesky highpoints. We took metro C to Versailes Rive-Gauche and arrived a bit after opening. The place is humungous, was crowded and it was HOT. We bought the guided tour of the private apartments and lucked out with a very knowledgable articulate guide. We got a lunch break during the tour so we walked through the hall of mirrors, found the toilets and grabbed a bite. We had planned on attending the waterworks but at the end of the post-lunch tour (3:00) the whole place was evacuated! We never found out why and only got a glimpse of the gardens. We then went into the town and got a bite to eat, waiting for the grounds to re-open. By 5:30 they were still evacuating!
So, we returned to Paris, getting off the metro at the Hotel de Ville and went to the Pompidou Center- whew!
Day four was cooler and by 8:50 we were lined up at the Eiffel Tower and got right on the elevator. Needless to say the panorama was breathtaking but by the time we came down, the lines were ridiculous. Next we walked the Champs Elysees, bought macarons at Laduree on our way to lunch at Dominique Bouchet. Wow, a fantastic lunch with a bill to match. DB's was a unanimous hit and worth the splurge.
Next we marched up to the Haussman Blvd. shopped at Galleries Lafayette and other stores along the way. That evening was devoted to shopping, admiring the lovely architecture and an early bedtime.
Next morning we got ourselves over to the Place des Pyramides for a Cityrama tour of the Loire Chateauxs. The tour lasted from 7:15 - 8:30 and was a long day. Luckily it had cooled down enough so that the weather was very pleasant. It was nice to be sitting down after all that walking around the city. The countryside scenery and small towns we passed through were delightful. We went to Blois, Chambord and Chennanceau and because each Chateaux had a fairy-tale magic, it was another highpoint. HOWEVER, the day was too crammed, the citirama tour guide not well versed, annoying (even rude to some of us) and the bus wasn't well kept - they should keep the windows cleaner. If you want to see all three chateaux's in a single day, know that you won't have much time in any one chateaux and you might want to try a different tour company.
Gathering no moss, the next morning we were up and off to Chartres, about an hour by train from Gare Montparnasse. Another highpoint. The day was cool and we actually had some showers. We took the Malcolm Miller tour - do not miss this - and toured the crypt. We shopped - things were cheaper and shopping leisurely - walked up and down the twisted little streets and ate a lovely lunch at Brazerie Bruneau. It was a magnificent day and pretty low-key considering the pace we set. Our evening consisted of a walk along the Seine taking pictures and just soaking up the atmosphere.
Next morning we opened up the Louvre. What can I say - I think I was on visual-beauty-overload. It wasn't until about an hour into our visit that the place started to fill up and by the time we left - near noon, it was very crowded. So, we had lunch at Le Soufle. If you like soufle, it's the place for you. The chocolate dessert soufle is out of this world.
The afternoon consisted of Sacre Coure, Montmartre, Rue St. Honore and a surprise. We stumbled upon a concert given by the Somerset County youth Orchestra inside Eglise de la Madeleine. They were great and the setting - well, what a treat. Another highpoint.
The trip went better than expected. We loved- actually were in awe of - the beauty of Paris and found the French to be hospitible, helpful and courteous.
By the way, thanks to all you Fodorites who gave me suggestions before this trip - you never let me down.
Hi J,


Great report.
>We loved- actually were in awe of - the beauty of Paris ...<
You're supposed to be. Hausmann designed it that way.
Thanks for your report. I will make sure that a ballet performance and a side trip to Chartres are added to my must-do list.
I believe you are already planning what to do on your next visit too.
A great report, and it sounds like you girls really made the most of your time in Paris - and really enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for a lovely trip report. But I do have thoughts you must be awfully hungry. You noted only one dinner you had. The French you know are as noted for their restaurants as the monuments and museums. Would love to hear something of your dining out with highlights of best meals and best buys.
Hungry? Never, but to be honest I don't remember the names of the other restaurants we ate at. That's why I didn't include them. Many were just little sandwich/salad places where we could grab a bite and not interupt our schedule with a whole sit-down dinner. The allure of crepes also kept us well fed.
jahlie, thanks for the lovely, detailed trip report.
Don't you love it when the tour guides are uninformed and rude, UNTIL it comes to tip time. It's amazing how they instantly become your new best friend.
Nina
What tip?
Jahlie,
Yes, the location of the Hotel Mayfair is wonderful....the Tuileries across the street....Angelina's around the corner.
I'm glad that you found Le Souffle....you didn't happen to find L'Ardoise?...it is just a door away. Great little bistro, making it another reason to stay at the Mayfair!
I keep returning to the Mayfair. I've stayed in other places...even rented apartments...but come October I'm heading back to the Mayfair.
Thanks for your report....glad that you had such a wonderful trip!!
Bailey,
Yes the Mayfair's location is the best and I can't say enough about the staff - very helpful and pleasant. I'd read a couple of negative comments about the place beginning to show it's age but our rooms and the public areas were delightful.
We saw L'Ardoise but didn't have time to stop in - perhaps next time?