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Trip Report - Naples and Southern Italy

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Trip Report - Naples and Southern Italy

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Old Apr 27th, 2010, 12:40 PM
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Trip Report - Naples and Southern Italy

In mid-March we spent 2 1/2 weeks doing a circular route through Italy, primarily in the south. Here's how it went:

Picked up a car at Fiumicino, and drove south to a little hotel in Pompei. We had never seen Naples, and I was a little concerned about staying there with a rental car, so we picked Pompei. I'm so glad I read prior trip reports & didn't avoid Naples, because Naples was a hoot! We did 2 day trips there by train, and had the best time wandering the little streets, eating pizza, visiting the archaeological museum, and generally people watching. Wonderful. Would I want to live there? - I don't think so! But to visit was a fabulous experience!

Then we drove south east to Matera, a UNESCO site where Passion of the Christ was filmed. Incredible tour of the sassi, great lunch, very worth spending a day.

Then further east, where we stayed at a masseria in Castellana Grande for 3 days of day trips through Puglia. Lecce is everything they say it is, the "Florence of the South". Had probably our best meal of the entire trip there. Also saw Alberbello (too cute), Polignano, Trani (wow - breathtaking marina), and Ostuni (the "white city" - gorgeous). the South generally is just not as pretty as Tuscany/Umbria, but the folks are very nice, the food is terrific. Be forewarned though, I was surprised that virtually no one, not even in Naples, speaks English. I speak just enough to get us by, I really don't know how we'd manage otherwise, since we were constantly getting lost!

Then up the Adriatic coast, always wanted to see the Gargano promontory, that little "spur" that sticks out Italy's east coast. What great sights! Beautiful rocky cliffs, spectacular coves, lots of history. Spent the night in Vieste, sleepy town in March, I'm sure it's hopping in the summer. Drove straight through the center, through the Foresta Umbra the next day, to the very highest points where Padre Pio's miracles occured. Pictures don't do it justice.

Then continued up the coast, through Molise, into Abruzzo, and stayed 5 nights near family in Giulianova, a beautiful beach town. We'd been there before, really nice, very few American tourists. Did some genealogical research, visited the home towns of grandparents, walked the beach, and relaxed a little mid-trip.

Then we returned to Fiumicino, got rid of the car, and went into Rome for our last 3 nights. I can't imagine us going to Italy (this is our 4th trip in the last 6 years) without at least a couple days in Rome.

I tried to keep this short, just give the highlights, if anyone wants more details on anything, I'd be happy to elaborate. Enjoy!
Maria_G is offline  
Old Apr 27th, 2010, 01:36 PM
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I can't imagine a trip to Italy without staying in Rome either. After visiting Naples, aren't you glad you didn't drive there? lol

Do you have a hotel list?
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Old Apr 27th, 2010, 02:02 PM
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Sounds like a fun trip. We are headed to Rome, Naples, Pompei and Amalfi Coast this summer.

You said you did two day trips to Naples - would you say you do a walking tour of the old section in one day? What were your favorite sites. Any tips. We originally had only planned half a day but just moved things around so as to have a whole day if we want it.

Did you visit the site at Pompeii - if so how long did you stay. I keep reading conflicting opinion - some say three hours is plenty and they wanted to get out, others say a whole day isn't enough. What's your opinion.

Will also have 3-4 days in Rome. We were there for only two days several years ago. Other than the obvious biggies what were your favorite things to do.
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Old Apr 27th, 2010, 02:14 PM
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isabel - If you think you might want to spend more time in Pompeii, but not all in one day, buy the combo ticket (20€) which gives you admission to Herculaneum also and is good for three days.
http://www.pompeiisites.org/Sezione....ezioneRif=1165

Otherwise, get the 3 day Campania Arte card that also includes transport for three days.
http://www.artecard.it/
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Old Apr 27th, 2010, 03:05 PM
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Maria G,

Thanks for the trip report on areas of Italy that few American seem to visit. I may make it there on my 5thor 6th trip! Still have to get to #4 to Sicily and the Aeolians. Glad to hear you liked naples! I really enjoyed my 1 measly day in Naples and can't wait to return.

Isabel, good advice from kybourbon. I've visited Pompeii twice for a total of 7 hours and still could go back for more. It just depends on your interests. I find it fascinating and moving. It's one of "those" places where you feel the presence of those who went before. Others just find it hot and dusty and old....
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Old Apr 27th, 2010, 03:25 PM
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The art card is a great value if your doing Pompeii, Herculaneum and the Museum as well as the great free bus local train travel. If you want to get local color just to the right of the termini entry, facing plaza is a McDonalds, walk past it up a couple blocks and look down the side streets to your right. There are two with huge local street markets selling everything you can think of. Then stroll back and hop on the #1 bus and ride it up to the large square. Get off and treat your self to coffee and sweet at the cafe gambrinus. then you can walk along the old parts of town, up and down the streets, see the gypsies and top it off by shopping. Same bus #1 returns to termini. If you unsure of bus there is a small hut in the bus parking area (front of Termini) where you can ask where to get the bus. I have never been able to figure out the Naples bus system so when in doubt ask at the hut.
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Old May 1st, 2010, 10:17 AM
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Herculaneum is a MUST, it is as historically important as Pompeii, and better preserved. Pompeii requires a full day and Herculaneum can be seen in half a day.
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Old May 3rd, 2010, 09:00 AM
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Glad to see folks enjoyed my trip report. We had been to Pompeii before, so this time went to the ruins at Ercolano (Herculaneum). I actually found them to be better maintained, and smaller, so you don't feel like you're missing anything. My husband is quite the Roman history buff, so we could easily spend a full day at Pompeii. I felt like we did Ercolano justice in half a day.
As to Naples, we absolutely loved it. Spent half a day at the Museum, the other day & a half just wandering the streets, eating pizza, & people watching. As to the pizza, yes it's terrific, and incredibly fresh tasting. But the world's best? I know it's sacrilege to say this, but no. We found it too "soupy", especially in the middle.
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Old May 8th, 2010, 06:04 AM
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My family and I love art, culture and food and you were able to fulfill all our expectations in Naples area.
Naples, Pompeii, Capri, Iscia and Procida are wonderful. Food here is great! Some friends of ours had recommended vesuvius vs pompei and we had a fantastic experience.
With Fiorella we discovered Pompeii, one of the most impressive archaeological sites. She gave us an entertaining and informative tour.
As we love food and wanted to discover the secrets of Italian cuisine we had an incredible experience learning all the chef’s secrets while having fun with Alberto.
This company has specially trained guides, not only able to make history come alive, but also enthusiastic and with a great sense of humour!
sonia stall
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Old May 8th, 2010, 06:09 AM
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in Naples, in the area of Chiaia -centric&nice- a vesuviusvspopmeii representative suggested us:
hotel Alabardieri in Naples
B&B Chiatamone
Palazzo San teodoro
sonia stall
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Old May 13th, 2011, 11:50 AM
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Thanks for all your tips! I am planning a 3 week trip in October stating in Naples and going to Sicily. I have just started to plan and can use whatever tips as to where to go and where to stay. Thanks
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