Trip Report: Madrid, a many splendored city

I'm impressed you went to Palacio Real on the day of arrival, and remembered what you saw! I'm usually in such a daze/fog after a trans-atlantic flight that I always need a nap before my brain can somewhat function.

AnnMarie, I checked out your Hotel and it looked very nice. Great report so far. I got a little turned around near the Plaza Mayor and couldn't find the #10 bus stop to take me back to my Hotel and had to ask a Policeman for help. He was directing traffic, stopped, pulled out his directory, then walked me two blocks to the stop. People were great. Keep going!

Hi yk, we're always so excited to go somewhere that I think that more than anything is what drives us but as you read it's not without incident!

Hi John, glad you're enjoying the report. More than anything I think the people of Madrid are so patient, we were really impressed by this.


Wednesday morning we awaken to what feels like 7 a.m.. It’s 9:30. Our plan today is to visit Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza.

One of the things we love about Madrid is the museums, for the most part, are open until late, 7-8P. Another thing we love is the sun is still shining high in the sky at this time but is that late afternoon sun hot. Really hot. South Texas hot. I did not expect this in April. How must it feel in summer? We leave each morning under wrap only to lose the heaviest of layers on the slow walk home.

We enjoy a leisurely walk to the museum. After getting so lost that first day we never have an issue again with map reading. Being the official map reader I find the MapEasy Guidemap to Madrid to be most useful. The map the hotel gave us is also helpful but a little difficult for my aging eyes to read—it’s a busy map, small print but does come in handy for finding some of the more obscure places not found on the MapEasy.

Starting with the special Modigliani exhibit at the Thyssen we spend the better part of our day in this gorgeous museum. From the religious icons on the top floor to the magnificent Swaying Dancer painting by Degas, we’re in art heaven. Half way through we stop for lunch at the museum café. The menu del dia is a real bargain. Three starters, a main course, dessert and large bottle of water for 13 euro. The food here is really good and we enjoy the open, bright room, green apples floating in clear vessels filled with water. A stark contrast to the heavy atmosphere we’ll later find at the Reina-Sofia.

It does my heart good to see young school aged children, sitting on the floor, gathered around a painting engaged in answering questions about the piece before them. Not a wandering eye amongst them, they are truly enjoying the experience.

From the museum we head up to Parque del Retiro and find an array of sculpted shrubs and trees, flowers, fountains, tree lined paths, statues… oh to live here and have this to enjoy every day. The park is a delight. We’re a little tired after a long day and don’t fully explore the park at this time but do make our way back to the Monument of Alfonso XII which is the gorgeous structure facing the lake. We sit down on the steps and take in the scene. Oh, to live here and have all of this to enjoy every day—have I mentioned that?? And it appears that people do and it’s a happy site to take in. If only I could convince DH to row me about on the lake…

After resting awhile we head back, stopping in one of the tabernas along the way for food and drink. It’s about 8P. We’re not foodies and don’t make the point to seek out restaurants. We eat where we land and generally walk away happy. I don’t remember where it was we stopped this night but the food from here on out is exceptional. The very best calamares we ever enjoyed were in Bermuda…until we landed in Madrid. The calamares are thick and fork tender. What’s their secret? Not a fan of sangria we decide we should try it while we’re here—delicious. And the olives! Every night we try something new, something familiar and always walk away happy. There is food everywhere we turn, we will not leave here hungry.

I really don't think the taxi driver wanted to scam you...he just was lost. Probably a newbie on the job... LOL

You both are brave ! After such a long flight the last thing you did a lot of things on your first day, I'm almost dead after a two hours flight to London !

By the way , the cheese is Manchego My favourite is the stronger one ("curado") but then I know it is not for everyone's taste ! (My dad says it smells like feet !)

Sooorry , my quick hitting the Enter key again..this should read :

"After such a long flight you did a lot of things on your first day, I'm almost dead after a two hours flight to London "

Great report, it's bringing back the feeling of Madrid, a city I really enjoyed.

Thank you, kenderina, I knew I had it wrong, manchego... queso manchego. Wish we had tried the curado-I rather like strong smelling cheese, particularly raclette--wooooeeee, has your dad had a whiff of that?

LOL, it's a popular expression. "This cheese smells like feet" or "these feet smell like cheese" .
In very informal Spanish, feet are also named "quesos". We are rather..politically incorrect , hahahaha.

lol, kenderina, well so am I! Good to know I'm in such fine company.


I fall asleep Wednesday night with the sage advice running through my head of arriving at the Prado just before it opens to avoid the long lines. Not wanting to hear the sound of an alarm unless there's a train to catch we awaken about the time the museum opens.

It’s another gorgeous morning, and another beautiful walk, this day to the Prado. We arrive just before 10:30A and find ourselves, thankfully, in a relatively short line—around 8-10 back. Where to begin, the museum is daunting at first but after awhile, about half way through, we get the feel for it. I really don’t have the words to properly explain how amazing the art work here is, we wander around in awe, sometimes our mouths literally agape. What a collection, a feast for the eyes.

As we walk into one of the galleries we’re greeted by an old friend from home, Velazquez’s The Feast of Bacchus, or, as we’ve referred to it over the years, Los Borrachos. When DH’s family lived in Madrid they bought a lot of art work, re-productions. One of the paintings we inherited, so to speak, is a reproduction of this piece—to see the drinkers staring back at us from across the room puts a big smile on our face. We cross the room to become better acquainted with the original work. What a fun find that was.

One of the things we like about the museum is outside most galleries, for one euro, you can buy a small book on the artist and his work featured in the room. We loaded up.

It’s interesting to us to find artists throughout the galleries painting reproductions from original works of art—we’ve never seen this done before. Is that how our painting was created? Or by one of the street artists? We'll never know but will always wonder.

About mid-way through we stop for lunch at the cafeteria—there’s a lot to choose from including a menu del dia which DH enjoys but I forgo in favor of a plate of cheeses, greens, etc. The food is good, hits the spot, but those singular plates of food I selected added up.

After the Prado we visit the church just up the hill from the museum, Iglesia de San Jeronimo el Real, Madrid’s royal church. To be honest, after spending the day inside the Prado I don’t remember much about this church, I'm sorry to say. I believe there were music stands carved in the shape of a bird which I had never before seen which intrigued me, otherwise….

Amazingly, the sun is still up so from the church we wander over to Real Jardin Botanico which features plants from around the world. The most glorious of them all at this time are the tulips in full colored bloom. Also on special display further back is an array of bonsai plants. There’s also an herb and what looks to be a small vegetable garden. How I would love to see the arbor in full bloom during summer.

There’s an admission fee of 2 euro. With the abundance of parks we find throughout the city it’s really not necessary to pay to enjoy a park here but this place really is a treat, especially after the long day we enjoyed at the Prado. It feels good to walk peacefully through the beautiful gardens which were designed in 1781 by Gomez Ortega and Juan de Villanueva, the Prado architect.

The sun is setting and I’m about to fall over. Our schedule is beginning to catch up with me and will be the reason behind our foggy headed error tomorrow. All part of the experience. We head back in the direction of our hotel stopping for food and drink along the way. Another beautiful day in Madrid behind us.

AnnMarie, I'm saving your entire trip report for a full read later today but the words Modigliani jumped out at me. Do you happen to remember how long the exhibit will be at the museum?? Loved your pictures and so impressed how quickly you've produced a trip report. Deborah

Hi Deborah,

According to the brochure we picked up, exhibit dates are 5 February through 18 May--you sound so interested, I hope you have the opportunity to see it.

I too like those € 1 gallery guides. What I didn't like is they don't sell them at the regular museum store. I wanted one on the Flemish Primitives/Bosch, and I thought I could get it from the bookstore. Noooooo! I had to walk back to the gallery to buy it (but that gave me an excuse to admire the paintings again)!

Also, those machines only take coins. I put in my € 1, and pushed the button... and NOTHING happened! I was so mad. Of course, it was my last euro coin. I pushed the button another 10 times, plus the return change button 100 times. NOTHING happened. Finally a guard saw me (attacking the machine) and she came over to see what's going on. She doesn't speak much if any English, but indicated to me that I had to put 1 euro in to get a guide. I explained to her that I HAD put in my money already. In the end, she called her back-up, her boss I suppose, on her walkie-talkie. After about 5 minutes, her supervisor came and opened up the machine and handed me a guide. At least 20 visitors in the gallery were staring at me the whole time!

AnnMarie, I'm very much enjoying your report. I love Madrid too and even lived there for a few months in the early 90's.
And I agree, Manchego cheese is one of the best in the world. Hope you had lots of jamon serrano to go with it!

AnnMarie, thanks, I had my hopes up for a short time but we arrive in Madrid on May 14th and immediately drive to Burgos. We won't return to Madrid for our 5 day stay until May 31. Thank you for the quick response even if my hopes were dashed Deborah

AnnMarie,
I have a few pictures of Madrid at www.flickr.com/photos/johnthedorf if you want a few different views. None are as good as yours but different. Most are of San Sebastian but you can pass on them.

yk, you're not going to believe this but when we were at the Prado those 1 euro books were for sale in the shop! Perhaps your little incident was the impetus, lol!!!

Kristina, yes, we did! Lucky you having the opportunity to live in Madrid.

Deborah, ever the optimist am I, perhaps they'll hold over the show--it's very popular.

John, you under estimate your talent, your photos are gorgeous--thank you so much for posting them. Feel free to share more, you have a terrific eye.


It’s Friday. Originally, I had reserved this day to visit El Escorial. DH thinks we should wait until Saturday so as not to interfere with commuters. My thought is to visit El Escorial on Friday, Segovia on Sunday so as to avoid back to back day trips. We did that once before in England and it proved to be too much. I thought breaking up the day trips would ensure they would happen and with less room for incident. Recalling our crammed sessions on the tube we decide to wait.

We decide to visit the Reina Sofia instead on this day. Since we’ll walk right by it I think it a good idea to stop at Atocha to pick up our train tickets for Toledo which I had reserved about a month in advance using the Renfe website.

Another wonder of Madrid is Atocha. The tropical paradise that greets us upon entry is incredible. I had read about it, saw the pictures but had no idea the magnitude of this tropical oasis. What a lush back drop for a train station, we love it!

We’re directed to the kiosks on the top floor, enter our reservation code and voila out pour our tickets. We’re good to go.

Please learn from our mistake, minor though it was…. Since we’re at the station, having successfully retrieved our Toledo tickets, why not go ahead and get our tickets today for El Escorial tomorrow. Those of you in the know are shaking your heads right now, I can feel it!

We, ever so mistakenly, enter the Renfe ticket office, acquire a number and wait…..and wait…..and wait….. no worries, we’re getting tickets. When our number is called the very kind lady behind the desk tells us we’re in the wrong place to buy tickets to El Escorial, re-directs us and apologizes for us having to wait—it was our mistake to make but I thought it so kind of her. We head over to the Cercanias window, stand in line and try again. Tickets are for same day of travel only. Surely I read this somewhere, it’s ringing a bell, but is buried in grey mass.

I had read, and noted, that we will take the Cercanias train C8A to El Escorial but did not know or think there is a separate machine / window from which to buy tickets. My focus was on Renfe and figured everything fell under one umbrella. Renfe is Renfe...except that it's not.

Thankfully, Atocha is incredibly user friendly and well laid out, tomorrow we'll better know what we're doing and where we're going. The employees at the station have been incredibly friendly and helpful, so the only thing we lost here was time…. The good news is we gained a valuable lesson for the future and hopefully someone will learn from our mistake.

From the station it’s a short walk to the Reina Sofia. We first visit the vast Piccasso exhibit. Here we find ourselves at yet another exciting museum, this with an extensive, varied display of work. There’s a pretty courtyard in the center of the museum which we enjoy when we need a break. The miniature white benches scattered throughout the lawn are quite whimsical as are the chess pieces that infest some of the interior walls. I really love and enjoy contemporary art. Has anyone else been to the Reina recently? There’s a B&W silent film playing, from the 1930’s I believe, that debuted in Paris and caused quite a stir at the time. It’s a kick.

About mid-way through we stop for lunch at the adjoining restaurant. The menu del dia is not displayed so we ask for it. Did I read somewhere that by law restaurants in Madrid are required to offer a menu del dia? If so, I wonder why that is. The food here is excellent—I ordered hake which I had never before heard of--I read mention of it in James Michner's book Iberia, but that's the extent of my knowledge. It was absolutely delicious…that the fish came out on the plate whole didn’t surprise me but the tail in its mouth did. I find it funny and break out the camera. In my original photo link post I mistakenly omitted the photo but have since added it if you’re curious at all.

After our visit to the museum we tour more of the city. The beautiful, in full bloom, Plaza de Espana, Plaza de Oriente, as well as the gorgeous Jardines Sabatini which we missed during our visit to Palacio Real. The gardens here are just a delight and it’s a pleasure to see so many people enjoying them. What a refreshing respite these parks and gardens must be during summer.

It’s dusk as we make our way back. I don’t know where we stopped for dinner this night but in my notes I make mention of an elderly couple sipping a lemon colored liquor, poured over ice—the drink makes me think of Galliano although this is lighter in color. We make an inquiry and our waitress pours us each a drink, Licorde Hierbas—is that right? It has a light taste of anisette. It’s light and refreshing, very smooth. As we’re enjoying our drinks the elderly couple sees us and raises their glasses to us. We return the sentiment.

Well I loved Madrid. I agree it is a feast for the soul. My wife and I spent a week in Spain last year and I wish we had just stayed in Madrid.

OK, I am glad we went south to the Alhambra, but outside of that Madrid had all we needed.

Great trip report, I decided not to wait until the end of the day to start reading. The big problem is I can't wait to read more and I'm reading it faster than you are posting, AnnMarie Deborah

Perhaps those €1 gallery guides were in the bookstore? Honestly, I walked around the bookstore 3 times and didn't see them. (This is the one next to the cafeteria.) I thought about asking the staff, but they were so busy with customers I just gave up.

The museum guards/security probably had a meeting after my visit, "Some stupid American tourist didn't know how to use the gallery guide machines! Maybe we should sell them in the bookstore."

BTW, I forgot to say that your photos of the tulips are just incredible!

Sorry;but where are your pictures posted?Excellent report by the way(we live in Uruguay but my DW is a spaniard)

The yellow tulips at the park across the Madrid Royal Palace are the most beautiful yellow tulips I have ever seen!

Just a quick note that there is no Museo del Jambon, but Museo del Jamon (I believe Jambon is French...?). You would find it spelled Jambon often, but it is incorrect spelling if you are trying to write it in Spanish....

I'm so glad you are all enjoying the report so far--I really appreciate hearing from you.

Another mis-spelling, ugh--so sorry! Thank you for the correction, Viajero.

jelopez, you can either click on my name to find the photo post, or, click on the link below...

http://preview.tinyurl.com/3gvt5c

yk, that's the store! Either A. they ran out while you were there, or, B. you created an international incident.

Very nice, AnnMarie. Until now, you guys seem to be into the museums (Madrid has some of the best on the planet), but I envy you for seeing the Modigliani exhibit (what a quirky artist.... the town I live has two of his paintings in its museum, and you can spot'em from fa....r away)! I like much of what you write. Well, except I can't stand cheese that smells like anyone's feet

Hi ComfyShoes--so nice of you to tune in, I so enjoyed your trip report! In fact, I brought a copy of it with us. The Modigliani exhibit was indeed a treat! ...rhymes with feet.


Saturday morning we awaken to the sound of the alarm clock. It’s a crisp, sunny morning. We enjoy a quiet walk to Atocha and make it there just in time to miss the 8:30 train to El Escorial. DH buys our tickets from the Cercanias window without consulting me. Can’t imagine what would possess him to do this, lol. I ask DH if the tickets are for the C8A train—he doesn’t know, says they’re for the next train to ES, so I ask the clerk at the window how many stops our train makes. He thinks a minute, winces and tells me maybe 10. Okay, so we’re on the slow train, the C8. Coming and going. Woo hoo!

We board the double decker train and depart on time, about 9:30, for the hour and 10 minute ride. Once we exit the under ground, and escape the surrounding city, we enjoy the scenery—it reminds me a bit of Texas. My sore feet and legs are happy for the rest. In the end, although it took us twice the amount of time to reach ES, I feel this is a happy accident as we have the chance to just sit back and enjoy the ride.

When we exit the train station there are two taxis waiting, no bus. We’re ready to move so we take a taxi to the top of the hill. DH surveys the large, now pedestrian, entry courtyard area and remembers parking here as a child. The memories for him come in spurts. What a pretty area this is with the foothills of the Sierra de Guadarrama creating a green, lush back drop to the Palace. We buy our tickets, rent the audio guide and for the next several hours are once again amazed at the treasures that behold us.

There are several group tours going on at once in the Palace and by the time we reach the Royal Pantheon, where past and future Spanish monarchs come to rest, it seems everyone within a mile radius has gathered at this one spot at the same time. The stair well down to the Pantheon is stunning to say the least—floor to ceiling marble, jasper and bronze unlike anything I’ve ever seen. Between this room and the other rooms containing tombs the Palace is packed. There’s little room for movement so we don’t linger long in favor of breathing space.

The Basilica is off limits because of a wedding—we’re able to view some parts of it from the gate, such as the magnificent altar, but that’s as far as we get. The library is amazing and brings to mind The Long Room at Trinity College in Dublin. There are rooms filled with gorgeous works of art, furniture and tapestries. This has been just an amazing, worthwhile day trip.

Afterwards, we wander around back to admire the gardens and views. We head back to the Palace and enjoy a snack of sandwiches and coffee before returning to the train station. And speaking of coffee…. the coffee we order in Spain is some of the best we’ve had anywhere—café con leche, oh so good!!

It’s a gorgeous late afternoon and not that we’re looking but there’s no obvious sign of bus or taxi so we walk back to the station. Down hill is no problem but we can’t imagine the long walk up!

At some point during the train ride back to Madrid, I don’t remember where, a group of about 6-7 young men board our car and head for the back. They’re a little rowdy, nothing significant, just loud. Not 2 minutes later two security guards enter from another car, walk straight back to where they are and stand immediately next to the group for the remainder of the trip. The policia are everywhere we go, seemingly on top of everything.

Back at Atocha, we begin to argue about buying train tickets, in advance, for Segovia the next day. Neither of us can think straight so we decide to wait and begin the walk back to our hotel stopping for churros and hot chocolate along the way. Whatever the ailment there’s nothing like an order of churros and hot chocolate to set you right again. What a delicious treat this is, talk about decadent.

By the time we reach the hotel, the sun has set, it’s late and we’re tired but decide to drop our bag off and visit some of the tabernas that fill the streets surrounding our hotel. It’s another beautiful evening and the bars, outdoor cafes are packed. We enjoy a nice evening, making small talk here and there along the way, before calling it a night.

Hi AnneMarie!

I was so excited to see your name and wanted to start reading your report right away!

(Tell me, where do you and DH live?)

I agree completely with so many of your comments ("What's not to like?" for example)

As for the B & W film you mention @ the Reina Sofia I believe is "Un Chien Andalou" (French for an Andalusian dog") by Luis Bunuel & Salvador Dali...really avant guarde & bizarre. We had an interesting discussion about it on my own trip report.

Please please carry on love your report and writing style!

ana maria

Gawd, how I miss Madrid! Great trip report AnneMarie_C - you painted a nice picture, and it awakened all of my great memories from my trip last May. Thank you!

< "Un Chien Andalou" >

That's right! You've got good memory. It's a weird movie, I have seen it quite a few times at various museums.

< DH buys our tickets from the Cercanias window without consulting me. Can’t imagine what would possess him to do this, lol. >

That is too funny, AnnMarie. My DH would never even dream of doing anything travel-related without asking me. If it were my DH who did such a thing? Off with his head! You are so much more a forgiving person than me.

Your description of El Escorial sounds wonderful. Made me regret not going there on my last trip (I had to choose btw El Escorial, Toledo, and Segovia for 2 day trips). I guess it gives me an excuse to go back at some point...

Hola Ana Maria! We've been living in San Antonio, TX for the past 19 years...one year left before we return to Maryland and don't you know I'm going to look for non-stop flights back to Madrid!

"Un Chien Andalou" - that's it! What a trip. I can't wait to read the discussion about this in your trip report!

yk, I know exactly how you feel about missing a day trip as we did not make it to Segovia. Very disappointed but I trust everything worked out the way it was meant. Next time, right?!

wow amazing you look max 25 years old! How is it possible 19 years?

lol, Ana Maria! Thank you for the compliment--DH turned 46 the day we arrived in Madrid and let's just say I'm not far behind! I believe all the wine we enjoy is pickling us, lol.


Sunday morning finds me up before the alarm, doubled over in pain. Severe abdominal pain.

The night before, I ate sardines and a tuna concoction of some sort that DH did not try—could this be the cause? At this point it doesn’t matter, just give me some meds! Not knowing how this is going to play out we decide to forgo Segovia, a huge disappointment but I think the right decision at the time.

Fresh air may do me some good so we head out to visit El Rastro, the Sunday flea market. We decide to cut through Plaza Mayor and find the sellos convention in full swing. In addition to the tent teeming with visitors the plaza is surrounded by vendors selling lottery tickets, coins, pesetas as well as other sorted trinkets. Also, there are painters selling, creating work. We strike up a conversation with one of the artists whose work catches our eye and end up with one of his oil paintings tucked in our bag.

From here we continue on our way to El Rastro, me clinging to a wall or DH’s arm intermittently. We’re getting some funny looks, clearly I’m in distress, but sitting in the room all day is not an option, what a waste that would be. The affliction, whatever it is, will subside, thankfully, about the time we’re ready to leave for Toledo the next day.

It’s a low energy day, a slow day. And a very sad one at that when I remember I am not the heiress to a shipping magnate I imagine myself to be as I would LOVE to ship a container home full of the salvaged hardware one of the vendors has for sale. Chandeliers, medallions, door knobs, brackets….I pick up some of the pieces, pet them lovingly, and walk away with a tear in my eye. The market is huge, streets wide, and packed with people. Looking up at some of the thorough fares all we see are bobbing heads. There appear to be some terrific clothing bargains. We find another vendor with beautiful furniture. And then there are parts and pieces and stuff I can’t imagine anyone would have use for but they do. When the crowds become too thick, and we have trouble walking, we leave and head out in the direction of Parque del Retiro…but not before heading up the hill to see Puerta de Toledo.

As we’re walking along Ronda de Atocha, just across the way from the train station, about the time the street changes names to Paseo del Prado a young woman with a black quilted jacket worn over her shoulders, the way my grand mother would wear her cardigan, slips in front of us and makes a play for an elderly woman’s handbag. The way she’s wearing the jacket conceals her hand / arm movements. The older woman whips around and, according to DH, cusses her out. It doesn’t appear the girl got anything. We continue on, waiting to cross over to Paseo del Prado when I turn around to find the young girl and her partner in crime right behind us. I direct DH up onto a ledge that allows us to look down at the crowd gathered at this busy intersection—the couple turns around and heads back from the direction in which they came….hell?

The sun is beginning to emerge as we make our way back to the park. This time we fully explore all it has to offer including Palacio de Velazquez and Palacio de Cristal which we missed during our first visit. We love this park. That we had the opportunity to visit it twice makes us very happy. Such a lovely, relaxing environment. Sunday afternoon in the park, what could be better?

After we leave the park we stop in to see the Luca Giordano exhibit on display at the Cason del Buen Retiro located on Calle de Alfonso, just across from the park. There’s a terrific photo display of the building’s history also on display. The art work is, again, beautiful. What a nice surprise to find another Rubens (one of my favorite painters), The Allegory of Peace.

We head back a littler earlier than usual tonight—I need some rest and we need to pack. Tomorrow we leave for Toledo.

Fortunately, our train to Toledo doesn’t depart until 12:20P so we’re able to take this morning at a leisurely pace. We check out of the hotel and enjoy a short taxi ride to Atocha.

At the xray machine, I place my suitcase on the belt before DH and head for the door when I hear the technician request DH’s case be sent through a second time. Uh, oh, they must have found his Swiss Army knife. DH and his luggage are escorted behind a screened wall along with three guards who want to see his passport. Information is written down, the luggage is searched. DH is not attached to the Swiss Army and tells them to keep if it’s an issue. This is one of those times I am so grateful DH speaks Spanish as well as he does because it is so important at a time like this to be able to communicate clearly. The guards are very nice to us and return the knife to DH telling him that on their screen it looked much larger—whew. We thank them and apologize profusely for the trouble before we leave.

We board the train, easily finding our car, seats. Next thing we know, right on time, the city begins to move past the train—amazingly smooth and comfortable, surely the train isn’t moving. This is the most comfortable of trains we have ever had the pleasure of riding—so smooth! Makes us want to travel the entire country by train, we are really impressed. Thirty minutes later we arrive in Toledo to find the prettiest train station we have ever laid eyes on. The woodwork and tile are just beautiful. Once outside we manage to hire the lone taxi driver for the quick drive to our hotel, The Hostal del Cardenal, Paseo De Recaredo, 24.

Remember those large suitcases we drug around the streets of Madrid in search of our hotel that first day? Well, they’re about to be hauled up precarious sets of stone steps. We enter the hotel grounds through an 11th century wall with beautiful wooden doors to the grounds which are an oasis of stone, trees, plants, flowers—we are tickled beyond belief at how pretty it is here.

Somewhere, though, I feel we’re being watched -- the savy porters quite possibly see our cases and hide, lol. I would have! We’re so happy to be here we manage just fine. My theory is if we can pack, we can haul it. We’re shown a lovely room on the first floor that feels like Spain to me. Dark hard wood floors, carved solid wood doors, detailed hardware—gorgeous. The Hostal del Cardenal was once the summer home of a former archbishop. The details and contents found throughout the building are just a treasure.

Just a minor word of warning…. because the building is old and the floors are wood, we will hear the neighbors above us, loud and clear at times—it’s the thumping of movement above, not the voices. During our second night, around mid-night, I’m certain Michael Flatley and his River Dance troupe move in. This would in no way dissuade me from staying here again and I would, if given no other choice, take a first floor room again—just be aware.

Once we’re unpacked we head up the hill via that amazing escalator system for an on-foot overview of the city. Rain is in the forecast and we want to see, take as many pictures as possible while we can. Fortunately, as it turns out, the rain is minor and falls mostly at night.

We pick up a loaf of bread, some manchego cheese and make our way to the Alcazar, still closed for reconstruction. I recall reading in yk’s trip report that the views are incredible from this vantage point so we want to a look see and find she was right on! It feels a little neglected back here, though. What looks like what was once a beautiful park is over run with trash and graffiti. It’s a disappointment to see, in more ways than one. I wonder if the closing of the Alcazar and lack of tourists in the area have contributed to the demise and hope with the re-opening it will be cleaned up.

We’re nearly the only one’s back here and I feel it’s time to go when we discover we’ve acquired a new friend. We take ten steps, he takes ten steps. We stop to look, he stops to look. It’s almost comical…. we and our shadow. We make our way down the hill playing a game of cat and mouse with this guy. At the very bottom we split ways, DH heads straight, I go to the right. The guy heads straight for DH—what he didn’t know, and what we saw long before he did, was the security guard tucked behind the wall at the bottom of the hill. The guard steps out from behind the wall and into the street sending the guy scurrying. We suspect he may have wanted DH’s camera but who knows. Just be aware.

From here we head over to the more populated Plaza Zocodover area and enjoy the very best mazapan in the world! We step inside Santo Tome and order a bag full of goodies. A confectioners delight. This is mazapan unlike anything I’ve ever had—unbelievably scrumptious.

Recouped and refreshed, we visit Museo de Santa Cruz. The main building, in the shape of a Greek cross, is incredible. I’m certain it once was a church and am astounded to learn it was a hospital, founded by Cardinal Mendoza, and at some point an orphanage. The artwork and tapestries, swords, tile work and architecture are incredible. Here you’ll find one of El Grecco’s last works of art, The Assumption. The window lined hall that leads to the WC offers incredible views of the area, fyi.

After the museum we decide to head back to the hotel and rest up before dinner. A light drizzle is beginning to fall. We can’t help but notice that, unlike Madrid, Toledo does celebrate siesta—most all the restaurants, bars and shops we passed on the way in are now closed.

By the time we head out to dinner it is pouring rain. We head in the direction of La Antequeruela, near the bull ring. It’s late but most everything is closed—later I’ll read (yes, that’s right, I work in reverse) that many of the establishments are closed on Monday so time was not the issue. We find a small taberna and order food and drinks. They say they are out of rioja—say what?!? And instead offer a wine from the region, Castilla-La Mancha that I enjoy just as much. Smooth and warm, perfect on a cold and rainy night.

Fortunately, our train to Toledo doesn’t depart until 12:20P so we’re able to take this morning at a leisurely pace. We check out of the hotel and enjoy a short taxi ride to Atocha.

At the xray machine, I place my suitcase on the belt before DH and head for the door when I hear the technician request DH’s case be sent through a second time. Uh, oh, they must have found his Swiss Army knife. DH and his luggage are escorted behind a screened wall along with three guards who want to see his passport. Information is written down, the luggage is searched. DH is not attached to the Swiss Army and tells them to keep if it’s an issue. This is one of those times I am so grateful DH speaks Spanish as well as he does because it is so important at a time like this to be able to communicate clearly. The guards are very nice to us and return the knife to DH telling him that on their screen it looked much larger—whew. We thank them and apologize profusely for the trouble before we leave.

We board the train, easily finding our car, seats. Next thing we know, right on time, the city begins to move past the train—amazingly smooth and comfortable, surely the train isn’t moving. This is the most comfortable of trains we have ever had the pleasure of riding—so smooth! Makes us want to travel the entire country by train, we are really impressed. Thirty minutes later we arrive in Toledo to find the prettiest train station we have ever laid eyes on. The woodwork and tile are just beautiful. Once outside we manage to hire the lone taxi driver for the quick drive to our hotel, The Hostal del Cardenal, Paseo De Recaredo, 24.

Remember those large suitcases we drug around the streets of Madrid in search of our hotel that first day? Well, they’re about to be hauled up precarious sets of stone steps. We enter the hotel grounds through an 11th century wall with beautiful wooden doors to the grounds which are an oasis of stone, trees, plants, flowers—we are tickled beyond belief at how pretty it is here.

Somewhere, though, I feel we’re being watched -- the savy porters quite possibly see our cases and hide, lol. I would have! We’re so happy to be here we manage just fine. My theory is if we can pack, we can haul it. We’re shown a lovely room on the first floor that feels like Spain to me. Dark hard wood floors, carved solid wood doors, detailed hardware—gorgeous. The Hostal del Cardenal was once the summer home of a former archbishop. The details and contents found throughout the building are just a treasure.

Just a minor word of warning…. because the building is old and the floors are wood, we will hear the neighbors above us, loud and clear at times—it’s the thumping of movement above, not the voices. During our second night, around mid-night, I’m certain Michael Flatley and his River Dance troupe move in. This would in no way dissuade me from staying here again and I would, if given no other choice, take a first floor room again—just be aware.

Once we’re unpacked we head up the hill via that amazing escalator system for an on-foot overview of the city. Rain is in the forecast and we want to see, take as many pictures as possible while we can. Fortunately, as it turns out, the rain is minor and falls mostly at night.

We pick up a loaf of bread, some manchego cheese and make our way to the Alcazar, still closed for reconstruction. I recall reading in yk’s trip report that the views are incredible from this vantage point so we want to take a look see and find she was right on! It feels a little neglected back here, though. What looks like what was once a beautiful park is over run with trash and graffiti. It’s a disappointment to see, in more ways than one. I wonder if the closing of the Alcazar and lack of tourists in the area have contributed to the demise and hope with the re-opening it will be cleaned up.

We’re nearly the only one’s back here and I feel it’s time to go when we discover we’ve acquired a new friend. We take ten steps, he takes ten steps. We stop to look, he stops to look. It’s almost comical…. we and our shadow. We make our way down the hill playing a game of cat and mouse with this guy. At the very bottom we split ways, DH heads straight, I go to the right. The guy heads straight for DH—what he didn’t know, and what we saw long before he did, was the security guard tucked behind the wall at the bottom of the hill. The guard steps out from behind the wall and into the street sending the guy scurrying. We suspect he may have wanted DH’s camera but who knows. Just be aware.

From here we head over to the more populated Plaza Zocodover area and enjoy the very best mazapan in the world! We step inside Santo Tome and order a bag full of goodies. A confectioners delight. This is mazapan unlike anything I’ve ever had—unbelievably scrumptious.

Recouped and refreshed, we visit Museo de Santa Cruz. The main building, in the shape of a Greek cross, is incredible. I’m certain it once was a church and am astounded to learn it was a hospital, founded by Cardinal Mendoza, and at some point an orphanage. The artwork and tapestries, swords, tile work and architecture are incredible. Here you’ll find one of El Grecco’s last works of art, The Assumption. The window lined hall that leads to the WC offers incredible views of the area, fyi.

After the museum we decide to head back to the hotel and rest up before dinner. A light drizzle is beginning to fall. We can’t help but notice that, unlike Madrid, Toledo does celebrate siesta—most all the restaurants, bars and shops we passed on the way in are now closed.

By the time we head out to dinner it is pouring rain. We head in the direction of La Antequeruela, near the bull ring. It’s late but most everything is closed—later I’ll read (yes, that’s right, I work in reverse) that many of the establishments are closed on Monday so time was not the issue. We find a small taberna and order food and drinks. They say they are out of rioja—say what?!? And instead offer a wine from the region, Castilla-La Mancha that I enjoy just as much. Smooth and warm, perfect on a cold and rainy night.

Bienvenidos, mi amiga!

I'm printing your report to read on my porch today. I'm so glad you had a great trip to Spain. One of our favorite trips ever!

BeachGirl

< DH turned 46 the day we arrived in Madrid and let's just say I'm not far behind! >

You've got to be kidding me, AnnMarie! You and your DH look no older than 35 the most. Perhaps you did some airbrushing to the photos? I want to know what face cream you use!

I'm glad you recovered from the ailment in a day. Well, you know what I'm gonna say - now you have an excuse to go back cuz you missed Segovia. I bet you were glad you didn't end up buying the train tix to Segovia the day before.

I am a bit surprised by how much "potential" crime you witnessed. I didn't see any pickpockets or felt like I was being targeted on my trip; but perhaps I was just too ignorant.

Hola, BeachGirl!

You're so sweet--hope you enjoy reading it. Do note we chickened out on the car rental and took the train instead--girl, you are one brave chica driving the streets of Toledo--oh...my....heck!

I'm headed out for the day and will finish up later.

Enjoy your porch time! Sounds wonderful!

yk, thank you for the compliment--I've been using Lancome for years but I think more than anything, besides the alcohol, lol, it's in the genes...either that or you people need to have your eyes checked, lol. I notice the worse mine get the better I look.

You know, we were surprised, too, by the petty crime but have to say that at no time did we ever feel unsafe or uncomfortable--these incidents were just that, a random moment in a day.

Madrid is probably the safest we've ever felt in a big city, despite the attempted heist--we felt safer there than we do where we live.

I was concerned that spending two nights in Toledo would be too much but it turned out to be the perfect amount of time for us. If the Alcazar and Museo de El Greco were open a third night would have been needed.

It’s Tuesday morning and we awaken to clear skies. On this very busy day we visit Sinagoga La Blanca, the city’s oldest and largest sinagog, Sinagoga de El Transito, Casa Museo de Victorio Macho, Iglesia de Los Jesuitas, which offers amazing birds eye views of the city, Iglesia de S. Roman (Museo de los Concilios), as well as the magnificent Cathedral. Rick Steves refers to the Sacristy as a mini Prado—I wouldn’t go that far but the collection of art work is impressive. We are tickled to discover we share the same last name as the ironworker who built the grille for the choir—this is the first time ever I have found our last name anywhere.

Toledo is lovely and we enjoy wandering the streets, sometimes without looking at a map. The Museo de Victorio Macho offers an insightful, short film on the history of Toledo that is worthwhile—as are the views overlooking the Rio Tajo. Highly recommend it.

We are scheduled to return to Madrid the next day—we enjoy our last evening out in Toledo, happy the throngs of tourist groups are gone for the day.

We leave Toledo for Madrid early Wednesday morning—the train on time and barely a bump along the way. From Atocha we take a taxi to our last of the hotels, Hotel Catalonia Las Cortes, Calle del Prado, 6. This is where I had originally wanted to spend the week but was unable to book six consecutive nights. In the end, I think it worked out for the best. This is a lovely hotel in a terrific location—we just preferred the Preciados. Our room here is really tight, not a lot of storage—I can’t imagine staying in this particular room for a week, however, when the cleaning staff leave open the room across the hall, Room 202, I am astounded by its size and painted ceiling—gorgeous! Since we were staying only one night it’s possible we were placed in one of the smallest of rooms.

We don’t bother to unpack and head over to Casa Hernananz—mama needs new shoes.

We review the laundry list of places we have yet to visit but acknowledge time is running short. We finally decide on the Museo Arqueologico Nacional stopping at the Thyssen for lunch along the way. The museum is terrific but, unfortunately, several of the rooms were closed due to re-construction. For once, DH is running out of steam—we return to the room for a nap before heading out to dinner.

We request a taxi the night before for 7 am—the driver arrives a few minutes early. It’s a quick 20 minute ride to the airport, with traffic. We were surprised at the amount of traffic on the freeways at 7 am. They say New York City is the city that never sleeps—Madrid is another!

Our return flight departs nearly on time and we arrive in San Antonio on schedule. We are so grateful we did not choose American for this trip or surely we would have been stuck somewhere (Dallas). My heart goes out to those passengers not as fortunate as we were in getting home.

There are several places in and around Madrid that we regret not seeing but 10 days just wasn’t enough time…it never is. We absolutely love Madrid and all she has to offer—we are just amazed by all there is to see, do and take in. I can’t imagine spending only 2-3 days in this city or one day in Toledo but that’s me, we’re all different and have our own way.

Thanks to all of you who post on this board—from you I picked up an enormous amount of useful information that helped make our trip a success. Also, Maribel’s Guide, DK Eyewitness Travel Madrid and National Geographic Traveler Madrid proved to be the most useful. The pop-out and Streetwise maps that I’m normally so fond of never left the suitcase—the MapEasy Guide to Madrid covered most all bases for us and was easier to read.

Thank you for taking the time to read my report and for your comments.

Viva yo!

AnnMarie

Thanks for your compliment, AnnMarie_C. Interesting visits to Toledo and El Escorial, and for making the most of that somewhat-sick morning. The two incidences of potential robbery are interesting to note (always a useful reminder).

Noting comments of couple posters on "off with the head of DH" (yes yes, lighthearted I know....), as a man myself, I better refrain from comments on age etc.

Have fun!

It's great to read you had a wonderful time in Madrid The only thing I feel bad for you Americans is that you cannot enjoy the great theaters and musicals that there are because of the language. Well, I suppose you husband would have been able to enjoy them but then you were too busy the whole time
Hope you come back soon to Spain and get to know other cities too !

By the way, I envy you because I always look at the Preciados Hotel when I have gone there but I still haven't found any offer suitable for me ! I wouldn't change its location for anything in Madrid, really !!

Love your trip report, AnnMarie. So, where's your next destination?


ComfyShoes - I bet you're talking about me. My DH knows better than trying to make any travel decisions. I'm sure if I were to mess with his workbench and tools, he'd chop my arm off! Fortunately, we both know our place in our marriage.

AnnMarie, your well written trip report has been very helpful in planning our first visit to Madrid.

After reading your day to day activities I'm taking a second look at my own plans. I think I'll save the day trips out of Madrid for a future visit and take a slower pace for the 5 days we will be there.

Did you buy your MapEasy guide to Madrid in Spain? I haven't purchased a street map of Madrid yet. I've used Streetwise in Rome & Naples but my favorites are the Mapguide by Michael Middleditch and there isn't one for Madrid.

thanks again for your trip report, Deborah

yk, I am generally either kidding or not being serious. Have a good evening.

My dear Comfy..you should not be kidding about this "minor" details...don't forget you are married to a Spanish woman...heads off can be a mild expression...

Stop scaring me, Kenderina! You are not serious, are you? I was told only women from Valencia are well known for chopping things.

I don't know...I'm not from Valencia , Comfy ! LOL

Hi AnnMarie,
I've loved reading every line of your delightful trip report, and I love your writing style. You and your DH are my kind of easy going, energetic, intrepid travelers!

Sorry about that dreaded "circuitous" taxi route....
I thought at first you really had been taken for a ride, but then I remembered that no one in Madrid seems to realize Calle Preciados has a one block "extension" to the west. Most think it's only the pedestrianized street that goes from the Puerta del Sol up to Callao. The "extension" isn't even indicated on most maps.

It would have been correct of him to take you past Atocha on the left to get to the Puerta del Sol area, coming down on the M30.

So... as kenderina says, maybe that driver was genuinely confused. But he should have realized that after 20 min. instead of an hr.!

Thanks to your great (and detailed) report, I'm going to add a note about purchasing those Cercanías tickets to my guide. It's confusing. Most don't realize that they can't be bought at the regular ticket counter lines and Renfe ticket machines. You have to look for the machines with the inverted C.

I double checked the bus schedule for those buses that meet the C8A trains at El Escorial station-they still exist, but I think the bus wasn't there because it doesn't meet the other (sloooooow) train.

That elevator that takes you to the top of Toledo is called the "Lightning Rod"-that's what it looks like when illuminated at night. I always take it up, but I get so turned around in the medieval quarter, I never can find it to take it back down.

Very sneaky, those folks who showed us around the Catalonia Las Cortes! They proudly showed us gorgeous room 202 with frescoed ceiling but sure didn't let us peek in the door of the tiny room across the hall! Tisk, tisk. I'll make a note of that.

I'm really impressed by all that you saw and did. And who ever said that Madrid didn't have gorgeous architecture? It's such a beautiful city to visit in the spring. And as they busily clean those intricate Belle Epoque facades, the city just gets prettier and prettier.
It's so nice to read such an enthusiastic, resounding thumbs up for this city.

Thanks for a terrific report!

DeborahAnn,
I bought my Madrid MapEasy guide at Barnes & Noble.

Thank you, all, it's really good to read your feedback.

Hi kenderina, I agree with you 100%. As much as we saw I know that we still missed out on so much. I envy yk taking the time to take in the opera--that is right up my alley. We would have loved to have experienced flamenco, taken in the theatre or musical performance but with our schedules, lack of time, it's just not possible to fit it all in. Very sad--that aspect is not lost on me. Really, it is a sad statement in more ways than one. The Spaniards have gotten it right, imo. Your love and appreciation for the arts does my heart good. My hope is that it never changes.

Hi yk, we're considering returning to Paris around Chistmastime... returning to Spain is also high on our list. DH will start a new job about a year from now so, more than anything, we have moving on our minds. What about you?

Hi Deborah, I, too, found my MapEasy at Barnes and Noble. You may want to look at the National Geographic Madrid--it is a fabulous, in-depth travel guide, one that really raised my enthusiasm level. I look forward to reading about your experience!

Hi Maribel, I'm flattered that you read my trip report, really. Thank you for the compliment.

I appreciate what you and kenderina had to say about the taxi driver--he seemed so sweet and sincere and genuinely distressed! Calle de Preciados is confusing and I think it's one of the reasons we struggled with direction in the very beginning.

The trains make perfect sense... once you understand them, lol. I use the trains in the States and a ticket window is a ticket window--combination of Amtrak and commuter. It was a good experience that got us to think outside the box, a good thing.

Now that you mention it the escalator does resemble a lighting rod--fascinating! I had no idea, this is the first I've read of it, very cool! We were really impressed that someone thought to build and execute this--we've never seen anything like it before.

So you've seen room 202! Gorgeous! Here's a photo of our room, 201--not bad, just very tight for space.

http://i26.tinypic.com/8xrbpw.jpg

Thank you, everyone--you put a smile on my face.

One more compliment for you Senora I am home from work now. Great report Anne Marie!I really enjoyed it.

I am happy you enjoyed the trip & Madrid. You may know I also advocate the more leisurely pace & extended stay to get a better taste of Madrid. You seem to have really captured alot of the essence.

ana maria

I may have missed it, but how long was your trip in total?

I know you mentioned your husband speaks Spanish, but how about you? From my experience, it does seem to make a big difference in whether someone likes Madrid or not.

This sounds like a great trip, and I enjoyed the report.

What a soothing balm to read this wonderful trip report after reading the "what's the most disapointing trip you've have/place you've been" thread with all the mentions of Madrid as a disappointing place!

I am so enjoying reading this and seeing Madrid through your eyes and I recall my own trips there.

We did Mexico this Spring and I'm feeling Europe won't be happening this year, but both my husband and I are longing for a trip back to Spain.

And Maribel!!! How great to see your name here on the Fodor's boards !

Hi Molloy95,
Missed "talking" with you here!

I echo your sentiments completely, after also reading the "most disappointing" thread and seeing Madrid mentioned more than once.

AnnMarie's wonderful report has been such a soothing balm to me too.

I hope that those who were disappointed in the past will give Madrid another chance!

Hi WillTravel, we were in Madrid for 7 nights, Toledo 2 nights.

And I do speak some Spanish, better than Italian according to DH. Prior to our trip I took an adult education course and followed up with a Berlitz travel cd as well as the Pimsleur series.

I should have mentioned earlier in my trip report that I feel learning Spanish, as much as possible, is critical to a successful trip. At times we struggled for the right words but everyone was always so patient with us--they would just wait until we said what was needed. Helpful in reducing what can be a stressful situation.

Hi Molloy--I had to close down that thread! Made my stomach knot and blood boil...I just don't get it (and they obviously feel like-wise but believe we got it right. )

Nothing to see, not walkable-aggghhhh!!!!!!! We left with so much left unseen and walked everywhere. *sigh*

What I liked the most of that thread is one who says that expected an "Old World Mexico" ..I laughed a lot

I think the problem is the same always...expectations. Many times are uninformed ones..or just false.
Then the disappointment comes.

Why people just don't enjoy places for what they are ? You can feel them more appealing to you or less..but dissapointing is very strange if you focus on reality
Maybe I just don't understand because I've never been disappointed anywhere.

I totally agree with you.

I think some of the problems are created by images on TV & movies.
They add to the confusion.

Anyway Anne Marie did you say you would stay at the Preciados again? Or try another? Did you have breakfast included there?

After reading some lukewarm comments about Madrid here in the past, I was surprised how much I enjoyed it. I liked it so much, in fact, on my first trip that I squeezed in a couple of nights in Madrid last summer.

I really enjoyed the atmosphere there. Loved the evenings that stretch on and on, with people of all ages out late enjoying the cooler evening air. Loved, loved, loved the flamenco.

And my Spanish is pretty much limited to counting to ten and a few phrases I learned when I was six years old.

kenderina, what you wrote is exactly how I feel. We've never been disappointed in any of our travels, we accept places as they are and enjoy the differences. I will say that my expectations, something I try not to set but didn't resist this trip, for loving Madrid were actually pretty high--those expectations were exceeded. DH and I have the hope of returning one day to just exist in the city and enjoy it as it was meant to, not rush around trying to fit it all in. We felt so at home in Madrid.

Ana Maria, we most definintely would return to the Preciados...but if ever we hit the lottery we're moving into the Ritz--oh, how I yearned everytime we passed that hotel.

The photos you'll find on the website and TripAdvisor are accurate. Breakfast is not included--there's a small refrigerator (complimentary mini-bar) in the room which we used to store pastries, cheese, etc.

I just checked their website and it appears to have changed. In searching for a photo of our room I no longer find it. We requested a double superior which was described as having a queen sized bed but actually looked and felt more like a king. We paid 161 euro per night.

Ana Maria, if it helps you at all here are a few photos we took of our room.

http://i27.tinypic.com/2iubt0.jpg

http://i26.tinypic.com/3090llt.jpg

http://i27.tinypic.com/166agox.jpg

I think whether or not someone likes a city or a country depends, to a large extent, on their overall framework and occasionally some early experiences when they showed up. By framework I mean some people like showing up at places that others have categorized as "hip" while many try to make up their own minds. Of course, individual mileages vary. I had the opportunity to live in Italy for couple months back in early 90s, and had a close friend (also from the U.S.) who was actually very nice/normal but for some reason he never quite got over his craving for american pizza (of all places, in Italy!) and would complain on-and-on about how hard the bread was. Another individual I knew tried to tell me there are simply no blond people in all of Spain. Perhaps one needs to be a bit adaptive and with an open mind? I think I can safely say I have really enjoyed almost every country I have been to. It may be because I may have very low standards or it may be because I respect variety and local customs. On second thoughts, it is the former

And, let's face it, there are nice and not so nice people everywhere. Well... except where Kend lives where only goofy people can be found

AnnMarie, Good luck with the move and all, and thanks for posting the report. I rarely read trip reports lately (very busy) but I am glad I read yours.

AnnMarie I'm RE-reading this thread because it's such a pleasure! I grew to love Madrid when I lived there as a student, many moons ago in the 80s, so that undoubtedly has an impact! As does speaking Spanish -- much more so in Madrid than in say Barcelona, I think.

I'm just always glad to see posts from folks who enjoy Madrid as well. My husband and I have traveled there several times, most frequently in May (great airfare, good shot at great weather, San Isidro festivities!) and so about this time of year, every year, I start peeking at the Spain board, just to tease myself. Another post I read last night was the one about whether anyone uses travel as an antidote to depression. As I dream of a new trip every time I return from one, I could relate to a lot of what was being said in that thread!

And you know, my real dream is to be Maribel's assistant when I grow up

AHA! Some one just posted on the "disappointed" thread that they enjoyed Barcelona AND Madrid. (They were disappointed with Dublin.)

Loved reading it AnnMarie. Hope you could open my Flickr site. Sadly my battery died at the Sorolla because you would have loved it. Madrid exceeded my expectations. Really had no trouble communicating and enjoyed walking around the city and using the Bus.

Molly95
It was me.
I visited Spain ( not Barcelona) many years ago ( in the summer) and made a promise to myself go back again (the first time I could do it in another season)
Took a long time but we finally went in Oct. last year. Spent 8 days in Barcelona, 3 in Granada and 6 in Madrid ( day trip to Toledo)
I don't like visiting 10 cities in 12 days.
It was love at first sight with Barcelona and enjoyable second time in Madrid.
We already have tickets for Sept. trip to Santander and Barcelona .
In the spring 2009 - it is Madrid and Seville!
Love everything Spanish: the language ( have been studying for the last year) the art, diversity,
history, wine, food, wine, food...

Comfy, you are absolutely right...I'm goofy...I had to look for the word in the dictionary !!!!

www.flickr.com/photos/johnthedorf
Sorry Ann I sent this to JulieV's thread!

bookmarking to read later.

Thank you all for your generous comments--perhaps I'm not the hideous writer I imagine myself to be after all, lol. I love to read but writing is a challenge for me!

ComfyShoes, I love what you had to say and I'm so glad you took the time to read my report--I so enjoyed yours! Thank you.

Molloy, you can be Maribel's assistant, I simply want to be reincarnated with her itinerary. Thank you for your kind words and for re-reading my report...wow, really?!

John, do you have more photos to share? I saw this set somewhere, perhaps in my photo post? Would love to see more--your photos are amazing.

It really pains me that we did not get to the Sorolla--my plan was to go when we returned to Madrid on Wednesday but discovered it closes early--around 2 or 3P. Sometimes I wonder if it wouldn't be better to wait until we're retired to travel so we can take it all in, free of time constraints... but as there are no guarantees we'll still be around then we do the best we can.

Ana Maria, when you get a moment will you please do me the favor of posting a link to your trip report...I've gone cross eyed trying to locate it. Thank you!

Hi Ann,

just a small thing about your pictures. At the beginning, you mention the church of Saint Nicolas. That´s the back part of the Almudena cathedral, and the usual door to it (the main entrance is usually closed down).

Rgds, Cova

Wonderful trip report and pics. Thank you for posting this. I will save your report, as I hope to go to Spain in 2009 or 10.

Hi cova, thank you for pointing that out, I will make a note of it.

Hmm... Cova explained my confusion too.

Kend, Consider using at the bottom of posts (like ira's light bulb) It is a funny, cute looking face.

Great report AnnMarie
I was last in Madrid for about 11 days (weekends spent out of town with a friend, more about that later!) in 2005 after a wonderful three weeks in Italy.

I had been to Spain quite a lot of times before that, but when I was a lot younger, with my family. On those trips, I loved many parts of Spain but just couldn't connect with Madrid - unlike my parents, who are huge lovers of Madrid.

I just didn't get it.


On the last trip, I fell in love with Madrid. Well, I was visiting a lovely man there, and that helped, believe me, but I spent a lot of time wandering around on my own and re-discovering the city.

And being able to visit a family, hear from the older generation about the living through the civil war, eat dinner with them - I felt like I understood Madrid and her people a little more.

It just got into my blood! Even now, I can remember waking up from my little siesta in my hotel room, warm golden light filtering in through the shutters, and, unbelievably, the sound of guitar drifting up from an apt. across the alley...

Then, throwing open the windows and seeing the rooftops of Madrid spread out before me in the early evening glow. Well, and then the Spaniard arrives, and I'm sorry, I have to go now...

AnnMarie; Most of my photos were in Platja D'Aro, Figures, Palamos and those environs, Tossa Del Mar etc. then Barcelona, Segovia, Avila, Geteria, San Sebastian, Bilbao, Bayonne Fr. etc. I'd be happy to share however I can't write as eloquently as you. I'm at AOL.com

Anne Marie,

I will be glad to but I forgot how to copy my own trip report. Do I just find the reports & the copy & past it here or what?
Sorry I am of the computer illiterate sect.

ana maria :">

hi ana maria-

I found one of your trip reports, is this one correct?
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=35010551

What you do is when you see your trip report on the L hand column, click on it so that it shows up on the main screen. Then what you want is to CLICK on the title of your post. After you do so, in the address box on the top of your browser, the address should resemble something like the link I posted above (with a different string of #s in the end).

When you get that to show in the address box, click on it so that the whole link is highlighted in blue. Then you click Ctrl + C (hold both keys together).

Come back to this post, then paste the link here by clicking Ctrl+V.

Thank you YK that is the one.

Before I post it for Anne Marie I sheepishly need to give a warning: It is a very loooong 2 part report, tedious, w/lots of food detail & philosophic ramblings. (Mid Life)

My own DH said there is no way he would read that and he is waiting for the mini series in TV. ...lol. But It was fun re-living the trip while I wrote it.

Thanks YK for helping me out!

Part 1. refer to Yk's link found above

Part 2
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?screen_name=amsdon&fid=2

I hope I copied this this correctly.

BTW for an excellent report be sure to look for Ekscrunchy's thread on Segovia & Pedraza, and Comfy Shoes's report as well. I enjoyed them very much/

oops again. YUK.

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?screen_name=amsdon&fid=2

YK I think I am stuck, can you help me the second part is dates 7/14/07 titled Pedraza Continuation Part II.

so sorry

ams

Okay, if I can't be Maribel's assistant, I'll go for traveling along with Danon on all these trips already planned! And Annabelle, you may have the best little story of all there, je je je. Definitely helps to have a lovely man in the picture.

Danon - I'm sure the Madrid/Sevilla combo is to take advantage of the AVE. What a great, easy way to do that trip -- you will love Sevilla. We rented an apt while there;it was so reasonable. And Madrid looked so different to me when we came back through to fly out. Gave me a new perspective on the city. Can you squeeze San Sebastian into your northern trip? One of my favorites. It probably goes without my saying this, but Maribel has great guides to all these places on her web page. I wouldn't leave home without them!

This is soooooo very dangerous for me to keep reading these Spain posts. Just bought some El Almendro Turron on sale at World Market, but it's not the same things as being there. DH just started making noise about FF miles to Spain in October . . . .

Oh AnnMarieC! Look what you've started!!

Ah ana marie,

I finally found it:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=35025471

The KEY is you have to click on the title of your thread AFTER it shows up on the main screen in the middle. Then the thread address will show up on the browser's address box.

Molloy,
Who said you can't be my assistant????


I'm soooooo glad you're back here. Can't ever stay away too long, you know. It's so addictive!

Hi Molly, thanks.
We'll try to see Bilbao and San Sebastian, and make at least one day trip from Barcelona. In Oct. we spent all 8 days in the city - loved it so much!
I visited Seville for 2 days my first time in Spain many years ago( in August !!), I am looking forward to a longer stay at the time of the year when the temperature is pleasant.
That August I also visited Madrid, Cordoba, Toledo, Cadiz, part of the coast and Granada ( thought my brain would fry in Granada - someone fainted while we were touring Alhambra).

CORRECTION TO TRIP REPORT, PLEASE NOTE:

Color me red, in my enthusiasm to release this report, and let you all know how much we loved Madrid, I mis-identified Almudena Cathedral as Iglesia de San Nicolas, both in my photo link (since corrected) and trip report (no edit feature = lesson in humility). The description I give for San Nicolas is actually Almudena Cathedral. I regret the error. :">

John, thank you for your address I will be in touch!

yk, you rock--thank you! You have more patience than I.

Ana Maria, well now I want to read your report word for word, you have me intrigued! Thank you so much!!

Molloy, how timely of you--I was planning to hit World Market tomorrow and will look for El Almendro Turron, thanks for the tip! Oh, and by the way, you're welcome.

Maribel, your itinearary... *sigh*

Okay AnnMarieC, look what your lovely thread has created. I must be getting impulsive in my 40s, but DH and I just booked a trip to Madrid for September! I'm completely thrilled -- and we finally put some of those FF miles we've been accumulating to work!

We took the signs of me wandering onto your thread (after many months of no Fodor's surfing), my turron find, and Jorge Drexler singing in background in World Market as a set of signs. Right, we really don't need much to be convinced, do we?

Anyone want to come take care of my kids for 12 days in the fall? Ah, details, details . . . it'll all work out .

So, thanks for the inspiration -- to AnnMarie and everyone who chimed in about the charms of Madrid. Now the fun begins . . . which direction do we go from Madrid? So many choices, so many weeks between now and then to obsess.

Oh, how exciting Molloy, that is great news--yippee! I am so happy for you and look forward to reading about all the places you'll visit.

Happy trip planning!

No doubt, Molloy, just follow north when you are done with Madrid and you´ll reach the Basque Country.

Molloy,
Lucky, lucky you! I'm really excited for you.

(big summer Miró show will be at the Thyssen until Sept. 14)

And from Madrid you have so many enticing options for September!

Rioja for the wine harvest (fiestas de San Mateo in Logroño around Sept. 21-lots and lots of good wine, good food and just plain fun), Basque Country, gorgeous Picos de Europa. Ah, the possibilities! Makes for tough decisions, doesn't it?

AnnMarie's joyous enthusiasm for the city is just infectious.

I went to the Miro in Barcelona and if you do go be sure to get the Audio guide. I was always taken with his style but never understood the background. It helped that I was with and Artist but she just scratched the surface. So...I'll bite, when is the GTG in San Sebastian?

Ann Marie, I added a few pictures to my Flickr site. They are all over the lot and some day I'll organize them but it's time to cook!

Hi John!

So I'm not the only sardine lover, eh? That dessert is something else! I'm curious about the flowers surrounding the Statue of Marillo--do you happen to know what they are? They don't look like tulips.

Thank you for the addition of those wonderful photos! Did you happen to write a trip report?

Another reason I rushed my trip report = reality, as I knew it would, has found me.

I did write a trip report for my friends. Boring...kind of like home movies! I actually did it for myself because I always forget specifics. The flowers were Geraniums. By the way...I was first introduced to Sardines grilled in Portugal by some fishermen years ago. Very proud men who showed me their boat then sat on the cobbles, grilled over a rudimentary BBQ and drank wine, put the fish on the top of the bread (only to be nibbled on) and cleaned the fish from the bones with your teeth. Sang all night...Deep In the Heart of Texas!

What a great story, John! Now, I gotta know, who broke into song singing, "Deep in the Heart of Texas"? lol, that is a hoot!

When we were in Italy, Dec 2006, any time we mentioned we lived in Texas the standard reply contained a remark about cowboys followed by the miming of gun fire--what a kick that was!

Anne Marie, interested to know a few things.

You mentioned your DH lived in Spain as a youngster and speaks Spanish, and you studies as well.
Did you find it pretty easy to communicate? What differences if any in the expressions would you mention to the the others here?

For instance, we may say "de nada" as "you're welcome"
In Spain when you say "Gracias" they respond simply with "nada"

This type of thing always interests me..

Amsdon...I've never said just "nada", "de nada" is the usual and polite thing But I understand it is just to make it shorter.

Kend that's what I say....but last May I noticed everyone in Madrid (at least in the hotels and restaurants) all said just "nada" I thought this was odd. But styles of expressios change & I thought perhaps I was just out of style. Also I noticed the use of the word "fashion" to mean trendy.

Good question, Ana Maria.

We didn't experience a problem communicating--there were times DH struggled for the right word, usually while making small talk with people met along the way--he enjoyed talking with people about his memories of Spain, how things have changed, etc.,.

You are right on about the replies to gracias...rarely did we hear de nada used, and then it may have simply been nada. There was another word used, more often than not, that we have yet to figure out what it is--I want to say the word begins with the letter P... but it's safe to assume my ears, in addition to my eyes, are failing me. DH thinks we were told "my pleasure" but neither of us is sure how that translates in Spanish.

I think as others have mentioned we could have gotten by using "traveler's Spanish" although there were times I am glad we, or rather DH, knew more...

One night at dinner we made friends, so to speak, with our waitress--a lovely, funny and friendly lady. I was mortified to learn that, in my attempt at making a self-deprecating joke, I managed to insult her instead. I said something in Spanish that is not uncommon where we live but did NOT translate, at all. As soon as the words left my mouth her face fell--I looked at her quizickly, pointed to myself but soon realized my joke didn't work. I turned to DH for help who, with a look of disgust on his face, told me I just insulted her...but but but in San Antonio... didnt' matter, didn't translate, mortified.

When DH explained to her the misunderstanding, an expression of relief crossed her face, she smiled, then turned to me, ran her fingers across her lips, like a zipper, and pointed to me. We all enjoyed a good laugh but was that ever a rude awakening. Needless to say, my attempts at humor after that incident came to a screeching halt.

Yes, we use "moda" (fashion) for everything not just for clothes. The equivalent of trendy would be an expression like "estar de moda".

While you ladies were chatting I was busy typing....really, I think if anything we heard nada not de nada...but please note my aging ears and lack of attention to detail, okay?

Kenderina, any thoughts on salutations other than de nada? We both insist we heard something other than that phrase.

Anything will do, really. You can say many things, it's not like the "danke/bitte" combo in German that seems written in stone.
You can hear just "nada" , also "un placer" (a pleasure), "esta bien" (it's OK)....specially from busy people sometimes there is no answer

kenderina, thank you!

I would like to know what you said to the waitress, AnnMarie

Actually the Spanish ladies used the word "fashion" itself...such as "muy fashion".????
But these were young young ladies in the the CI stores.
Frankly even if I heard a bunch of American teens kids speaking to each other there would be many words I would not understand...lol! For instance using the word "dude" when speaking to an elderly lady...hehe.

I Madrid was speaking in Spanish but they told me they could not tell where I was from since my accent is a confusing mixture of so many influences, cultures, and it also changes depending on how tired I am or who I speaking with. But they usually cannot figure it out.
Either can I.

AnnMarie I am sure you & I had similar good experiences in Spain in that we sound like jump in & get to know people as they are and not afraid to open our hearts to them.
I personally think this is the reason we seemed to have enjoyed ourselves so much more than some other people who complain about the coldness etc. And I thnk this is the key to living, not just travel, in any country.

ams

Me too I want to know as well!

I once said something to my dad in Spanish, an expression that an x boyfrind had learned in Spain......about "mala leche"
(My dad was Cuban and born in the 20s) When I said it that one time my dad looked shocked & quickly reprimanded me, telling me to NEVER say that again!

As you know there are many expressions that are more or less accepted and used in your own country, class or generation but very taboo or just considered vulgar in others. Easy to say the wrong thing!

Ohhh, yes !! "es muy fashion" it's an expression young people uses to mean trendy (and sometimes not so young too). But it's usually for fun , mocking the way of speaking of some very posh people who wants to "show" they speak English that way ! Anyway, as you said, young people have their own language and sometimes I would need a dictionary to understand them

I guess just like we say things in French sometimes...."tres chic" or
a la mode (or am I referring to ice cream? )

Oh, you two are encourageable. Suffice it to say it was vulgar.

How interesting about your Dad, amsdon. DH's father is from Bolivia--I'm going to check with him to find out how what I said translates to him... but wait, I really like him, maybe I won't, lol!

I love making "that connection" with people...doesn't always happen but when it does it is natural and transcends all language, borders, barriers, etc.

And now I'm off to offend someone else... my violin instructor, tee hee...

Hola, AnnMarie! I'm just catching up here on Fodor's and came across your captivating report. Loved it!

I totally hear your DH with the "no photos" in the churches or museums. Always such a disappointment for us.

This sounds like it was such a wonderful trip for the both of you. I'm so glad you got over your trip anxiety and forged ahead. Sometimes the pre-flight stuff does get us bogged down with worry.

We went to Madrid a few years ago, in combination with Sevilla, Granada, and Toledo. In fact, we also stayed at the Cardenal.

Funny story about the Cardenal. Well, funny for me. How many times do you look over your reservations, double-checking to make sure you've got the dates correct?

Well, it was our arrival day in Madrid. We then drove to Toledo, arrived at the Cardenal.

Woops, my reseration was for the previous month, and they considered us a no-show. OMG, what am I to do?

There are already two couples behind me, asking for a room.

The kind gentleman at the desk said there was one room left, and would I like it. Without even asking about it, I said yes.

And now the posted rate was significantly higher as we were in a different season, but he still charged us the old rate and never charged us for the no show. Really a classy place. I loved it!

Thanks for the good read!

Oh, no! That has not happened to us... yet, lol. Glad you were able to secure a room after all--we LOVED the Cardenal, such a special place.

And welcome home to you! I hope you enjoyed an amazing trip...can we look forward to a report? After three weeks I wouldn't know where to begin.

So nice to hear from you, glad you're home. Hope you enjoy a lovely Mother's Day!

Hi again AnnMarie - I've started my report. It's somewhere in the Europe section. Sorry, but I'm a clutz when it comes to pasting links.

Enjoy the beautiful weather we're having!!

¡hola a todos mis amigos!

I'm tagging this report for leisurely reading over the weekend. It seems to good to rush through it...