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Trip Report Trip Report - Five weeks in Malta, Sicily, Slovenia and Croatia

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We just returned from 5 ½ weeks in Europe, during the planning stages I stalked these boards continually looking for information and promised myself I would give back with a trip report. I’m not much of a writer or a good note taker but hopefully I have some information that will be useful for others with their planning. I’ll include prices when I have them but as stated above I am not the best note taker and kept track of very few meals - hotels I did track so those are accurate.

On 4/22 we flew from West Palm Beach, FL using United Airlines award miles first to London (through Newark) where we took a bus and then train to visit friends in southwest England. I won’t be including any info from our stay in England as we didn’t really do any touristy stuff. Here is the rest of our itinerary:

Valletta, Malta - 3 nights
Gozo, Malta – 2 nights
Taormina, Sicily – 3 nights
Siragusa, Sicily – 2 nights
Agrigento area – 2 nights
Selinunte area – 2 nights
Trapani, Sicily – 2 nights
Bled, Slovenia – 3 nights
Goriska Brda, Slovenia – 2 nights
Karst Region (Landol), Slovenia – 2 nights
Rovinj, Croatia – 5 nights
Opatija, Croatia – 3 nights
Plitvice Lakes, Croatia – 2 nights
Jeruazalem Road area, Slovenia – 2 nights
Ljubljana, Slovenia – 2 nights

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    Sunday, 4/26 we flew Ryan Air from Bournemouth to Valletta, Malta

    4/26 – 4/29
    Valletta, Malta
    Admiral’s Suite Apartment – Highly recommended
    http://www.vallettaflats.com
    Loved this apartment--great location, unbelievable view, nice and roomy, comfortable bed, fast internet plus a washer AND dryer.
    90 euros a night

    4/29 – 5/1
    Gozo, Malta
    Grand Hotel – Recommended
    http://grandhotelmalta.com
    105 euros per night
    Nice hotel, comfortable room with a good view of the harbour.

    We enjoyed both Valletta and Gozo, if I were to do it over again I would add another night or two onto Valletta and maybe not go to Gozo. I think we missed some sites I would have liked to see on Malta (Mdina among others and the driving on Gozo was not as easy as I had anticipated, all roads go through the capital, Victoria, and it’s crowded, narrow streets. I was picturing charming little villages and country roads and didn’t really find that. All said though we did enjoy our time there, our hotel was right at the harbor with lots of restaurant choices – both nights we went down to for drinks at Gleneagle Bar and sat on the veranda (friendly place) then looked for a place for dinner. Sorry…I recall both dinners were good but didn’t write down the names. There are lots of choices.

    Valletta was very nice, I liked the atmosphere. We pretty much did the main touristy things there – St John’s Cathedral, took ferry to “three cities” (but only really went to one of them). Had some really good dinners, the only one I kept notes on was Guze Bistro – very yummy!

    We rented our car from Percius, a local company in Malta. They were very good and recommended by our apartment owner. They delivered the car to our apartment and we dropped it off at the airport. The charge was 96 euros which included full insurance.

    We got lost getting out of Valletta but once we finally figured out the way it was pretty easy to drive onto the ferry and get to Gozo. On Gozo we saw the “Azure Window” , Ggantija temples, Marsalfor and Ramla Bay all very nice but (sorry to say) not very exciting. I’m not sure exactly what I was expecting.

    On Friday, May 1 we left Gozo and took the ferry back to the mainland, due to the holiday there was a lot of traffic heading to the Gozo ferry from Malta but our way was fine. We headed right to the airport to return the car with plenty of time for our 5:00 pm flight to Sicily.

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    Friday, May 1
    5/1 to 5/4
    Taormina, Sicily
    Hotel Soleado - Recommended
    http://hotelsoleado.com
    99 euros per night
    I’m recommending but only if you’re looking for a budget place to stay and then its great. Location is good, very clean, room small but comfortable, good breakfast, great staff – very helpful. Good value, but if you’re looking for charm go elsewhere.

    We ended up using a car service to get from the airport to the hotel and I’m so glad we did as the traffic was crazy in Taormina and we would have had no clue how to get to our hotel. The service we used was www.newtravelservices.net, they charged 75 euros and it was so worth it!

    We liked Taormina but have to say we weren’t bowled over by it. The views are outstanding but the crowds were just insane. Saturday was the worst, the streets were so crowded it just looked like a sea of people, Sunday was slightly better and by the time we left on Monday I was thinking it was almost pleasant. I think part of the problem was that it was a big holiday weekend. It’s definitely a more enjoyable place when its not a mob scene. The highlights were the Greek theatre and Castlemola – (we hiked down) both have awesome, crazy beautiful views and are must sees.

    5/4 to 5/6
    Siragusa, Sicily
    Aretusa Vacanze – Highly Recommended
    http://www.aretusavacanze.com
    80 euros per night
    This was a great value right in the historical section of Siragusa. The rooms were definitely quirky, it’s set on several floors and they have a very small elevator but to get to the breakfast room you need to climb up a spiral staircase to the rooftop. If you have any mobility issues, this probably is not the place for you. Our room was nice, there was no view as the window looked on to a wall but it was comfortable and we had a small kitchen and the internet was fast (which we always appreciate). The staff once again super helpful and nice. They did our laundry for 10 euros. The breakfasts are good.

    We took the bus from Taormina to Siragusa, (10 euros each), the ride was OK – had to change in Catania and not in the best part of town. Beware there is absolutely no place to use the rest room at the Catania station so plan accordingly!

    Siragusa was nice, we went to the Greek ruins, walked around and just enjoyed the charming old town.

    5/6 to 5/8
    Agrigento Area
    Ciuci’s Manor - Highly, highly recommended
    http://www.ciucismanor.it
    70 euros per night
    I cannot say enough good things about this place. We absolutely loved it here and just wished we had another night or two to enjoy it. The rate includes breakfast which is huge and scrumptious and the option to purchase dinner for 25 euros per person which also includes wine and is unbelievable as well! The location is pretty remote which is part of its charm – but kind of a hassle. It’s in a beautiful setting, lovely common area living room with comfy couches and big picture windows with lovely views over the countryside. The hostess, Ginerva, cannot do enough for her guests. It was one of the highlights of our trip!

    We had picked up an Avis rental car in Siragusa and headed out with a stop along the way in Piazza Armerina to see the mosaics at Villa del Casale. Wow…so worth the stop. Loved seeing the mosaics and imagining what a super fancy villa in the day would be like. Then on to Ciuci’s where we relaxed, settled in and had one of her delicious dinners.

    The next day we went to Valley of the Temples, its about a 30 to 40 minute drive from Ciuci’s, that is if you don’t get lost which usually we do. We made it there just fine but for some reason our GPS, which usually did a great job, didn’t like Agrigento and kept sending us around in circles. We finally figured it out made it back. Valley of the Temples by the way is lovely, a must see in Sicily.

    5/8 to 5/10
    Selinunte Area
    Villa Sogno – Highly Recommended
    http://en.villasogno.it
    100 euros per night
    Very nice place - the breakfasts are delicious (Cinzia makes her own yoghurt) and she’ll even box it up if you want to go out and about. Rooms are really nice, comfortable bed, great bathroom with large showers and the area around the pool is lovely, lots of nice comfortable seating.

    The first day we went out to Selinunte and it was kind of a let down after Valley of the Temples (or maybe we were just templed out). The next day Cinzia made arrangements for us to go wine tasting at Planetta Winery about a 40 minute drive away, it was a little confusing getting there but we had a lot of fun once we made it. Tasted tons of great wines, they just kept pouring and pouring (I started worrying a little about the ride home). Of course we bought several bottles which was kind of crazy with all our traveling but we managed to get them consumed!

    5/10 – 5/12
    Trapani, Sicily
    Residence La Gancia - Recommended
    http://www.lagancia.com
    110 euros per night
    Nice hotel, kind of modern décor but an old building. Nice rooftop bar where they also serve breakfast. Friendly, and helpful staff plus good location. No complaints!

    We returned the car to the Trapani Airport and then took a taxi to the hotel. It was a Sunday morning so not too much traffic, then took a taxi into Trapani and checked into our hotel. Spent the day walking about Trapani – its a nice little town and right on the water. The following day we wanted to head up to Erice – unfortunately it’s a Monday and the funicular doesn’t start running until 1:00 pm so we decided to pay the 30 euros for a taxi to take us up and took the funicular down. We had a lovely time in Erice – what a beautiful spot - we were lucky with the weather because it was clear as a bell with wonderful views.

    Left the following morning on a 6:30 am Ryan Air flight to Trieste.

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    5/12 to 5/15
    Bled, Slovenia
    Pension Mayer – Highly Recommended
    85 euros per night
    http://www.mayer-sp.si/gb/index/index.html
    We loved Pension Mayer, very comfortable, great breakfast, really good dinners (we ate there every night), friendly, helpful staff, great wifi and the location was perfect – just a few minutes walk to the lake and town. Can’t say enough good things about it.

    I had read online how to get from Trieste Airport to Bled, Slovenia using public transportation but sometimes things don’t quite work out as planned. We were supposed to take a bus to Gorizia, Italy then taxi over to the Nova Gorica train station (about 5 kilometers). Unfortunately we missed the bus and got confused about how to take the train, and because we just didn’t want to hassle with it all we ended up taking a taxi directly from the Trieste airport to Nova Gorica, it cost 50 euros. I’m sure we could have figured out something cheaper but went the easy route. Anyway, we got to Nova Gorica with lots of time to spare so sat around at the nice café there having cappuccinos and waiting for the train to Bled Jezero. The train ride was vey nice an pretty but another complication – the conductor looked at our ticket and just said the only word he knew English – which was “bus”. So after all the tourists in our car started freaking out (me included) we figured out that at some point we’d get off and get on a bus which is exactly what happened at the Bohinj station, where they put us all on a bus (including the conductor) and drove us to the Bled Jezero station. I guess they were working on the tracks and shut it down for that portion – people going onward got back on the train but it was our last stop. We took a taxi from the Bled Jezero station to the town of Bled – I think we were lucky as there was a taxi driver on our train not sure how many taxis hang out at that station. Really nice guy, I think he charged us 7 euros.

    We really loved Bled and regret that we didn’t have another day there. We spent the first full day just hanging out walking around the lake and chilling. The following day we picked up a rental car from Budget, the office is right in town a few blocks from our hotel. I originally thought it would be better to pick it up at the airport but found out I could get it in Bled and drop it off in Ljubljana and that seemed to make more sense.

    We had another full day in Bled but some rainy weather was approaching so we walked Vintgar Gorge in the morning (beautiful) and then went to Radovljic in the afternoon and had a nice lunch at Gostilna Augustin. One more day would really have been perfect (especially a sunny one) I would have liked to have gone to Lake Bohinj or the scenic drive to Skofja Loka. Anyway, I’m sure there are lots of other things to do that we just didn’t get around to so maybe we’ll just have to go back!


    May 15-17
    Goriska Brda area
    Hotel Kozana
    70 euros per night – It’s OK
    http://www.hotel-brda.si
    I’m a little mixed on this hotel, the price is good, the rooms were nice, very plain but clean and comfortable enough and the view out the window was beautiful. The gal that manages the hotel is very nice, super helpful and speaks great English. It just had a bit of a cold feel to it and and no wifi in the room(which is a big deal for us) you could get it in the restaurant or the lobby but neither place was very comfortable.

    It was pouring down rain when we left Bled and the original plan was to drive the mountain road through the Vrsic Pass but one look at the weather changed our minds so we took the longer, but quicker route on the highway through Ljubljana.

    The Goriska Brda area is beautiful and there are lots of wineries around but they aren’t really set up for up people to drop in. A waiter where we stopped for lunch recommended a place for wine tasting and made an appointment for us which took us forever to find and that’s because it looks like a regular house, pretty much looks like every other house on that street, they did have a sign but trees and vines and leaves were covering it up so much we didn’t spot it. Anyway, finally made it and had a really good time, lovely people – turns out they have a pretty big operation and a huge dug out cellar, not something you would expect from the outside. We tried a lot of wine and ended up buying a few bottles – that’s what happens to me after I start tasting!

    We drove up to Kobarid the next day, had a nice lunch and saw the War Museum which we both thought was very well done. I really didn’t know too much about WWI so it was quite an education. Had a really nice dinner a couple miles from our hotel at “House of Marica” in the very cute castle village of Smartno.

    May 17-19
    Landol Slovenia (Karst Region)
    Lipizzaner Lodge
    http://lipizzanerlodge.com
    70 euros per night – Very Highly Recommended
    We loved Lipizzaner Lodge and I can’t say enough good things about it, only wished we had stayed another couple of nights. Its located in a very cute village in the Karst region a few minutes from Postojna caves and Predjama castle (which we hiked to in about 40 minutes from the lodge). The owners, Chris and Hanna were super helpful with lots of ideas of where to go, what to see, etc. They have tried to think of everything to make their guests comfortable (and I think they succeeded). Everything is new and comfy, beautiful bathrooms, they provide a great breakfast and also offer an optional dinner for about 15 euros which is more than worth because they are great cooks. Some of our best meals were here. The location is really convenient for day trips – an hour or less to just about everywhere you’d want to go – caves, horses, castles, the coast, wine-tasting, Lake Bled, Ljubljana, etc. It was really lovely.

    The travel time from Goriska Brda region was pretty short so we arrived at the lodge in the early afternoon so after checking in we decided to go to the Lipizzaner Stud farm and see the horses perform. It was good, neither my husband or I are really horse people and they were having a special anniversary show which unfortunately meant it was a lot longer than the usual shows with a lot of speeches most of them not in English. The seats were really uncomfortable too so we ended up leaving early. The horses were good but they pretty much just do the same things over and over (I guess you can tell we’re just not horse people!).

    We were super ambitious (for us) the next day so got up early and after a very yummy breakfast headed to Skojan Caves. Wow…awesome is the only word to describe. Even my husband who has been to a lot of caves said he’d never seen anything like it – the inside cavern is huge and it really makes you feel like you are in somewhere out of the world movie set. Very worth it! There is quite a bit of walking so that could be an issue if you have mobility problems.

    We drove back to the lodge and did a 40 minute hike/walk through the forest to Predjama Castle. Such a sight to see it hanging over the cliff! We scrambled around the castle, they’ve done a really good job renovating it and its in a beautiful spot with a fascinating story – well worth it. By the time we hiked back to the lodge we were pooped – just enough energy to open a couple of beers and hang out on the balcony looking at the lovely Slovenia countryside!

    May 19-24
    Rovinj, Croatia
    Apartments Cvek
    79 euros per night – Recommended
    http://www.apartmentscvek.com/istria/rovinj/apartments-cvek/
    We had one of their smallest apartments, a superior studio. The bedroom was separated from the kitchen/living area so that was nice but it was definitely tiny. I think the bigger apartments might be more comfortable. The owners and staff were super nice, they did our laundry twice for us (no charge), they also provide bikes for free. The neighborhood is residential and very nice but it’s a little far from the historic center – 20 minute walk and its much easier going than coming as its uphill on the way back.

    Rovinj was lovely, but saying that we spent five days there and that was one day too many for us. We took the bikes out one day and cruised around the park – very beautiful with lovely views to Rovinj. We visited some of the hill towns - Groznjan (my favorite), Motovun and Hum – it’s a really gorgeous area. Had another rainy day so just hung around Rovinj and we also drove over to Pula and saw the arena. Pula didn’t do too much for us, the arena was pretty awesome though.

    May 24-27
    Opatija, Croatia
    Villa Ambasador
    http://www.remisens.com/en/villa-ambasador
    145 euros per night – Recommended (included both breakfast AND dinner)
    Liked this hotel a lot. We had a nice big room, king size bed and a huge balcony with a beautiful view over the water. The villa is an old historic building that is connected by a corridor to the big five star Ambasador hotel. We thought it was way nicer and less expensive to stay there. Our room overlooked the Lungomare promenade and of course the beautiful sea! Lovely, lovely. We got half board which we had never done before and it was OK, its buffet style and there’s a lot of food to choose from – the price was so cheap I couldn’t not get it (30 euros for nights for two people).

    I was nervous about Opatija because I had read some negative comments about it but we ended up liking it a lot, I think it depends where you stay and what you’re expecting to do. I almost booked hotels right in town and on the busy street and I’m so glad at the last minute I changed my mind. I think our experience there would have been much different. There really isn’t anything too exciting too see or do – we walked the Lungomare (12 kilometers of seaside promenade) both ways to both Volosko and Lovrun, (http://www.opatija.net/en/sights/lungomare-the-seaside-promenade) its so pretty and lovely views right on the water. In the evening we’d walk into town and have drinks on the waterfront, beautiful setting. We stayed three nights which was probably one too many, on our last full day my husband was wanting to go somewhere so we drove into Rijeka to see Trsat Castle. It was OK, it was free so that’s a good thing but there isn’t much left of it, nice view of the city. There’s a nice place for a drink right on the terrace. Not a bad spot for an hour or so.

    May 27-29
    Plitvice Lakes, Croatia
    Villa Lika
    105 euros per night – Highly Recommended
    Great place (if a bit pricey). Breakfast was extra – 10 euros and they also offered dinner for 25-30 euros per person. We took them up on everything and it was delicious. The room was spacious, bed comfortable and wifi great. Ava, (owner/manager) was really helpful and a lot of fun as well. Close to #2 Entrance – walkable but we drove.

    I think its all been said already about Plitvice Lakes – its just awesome. Not like anything I’ve ever seen before. We took the most common route --drove to Entrance #2 and took the bus to the upper lakes, walked down and took the boat over to the lower lakes. We started early, I think we were at the entrance by 8:40 not too crowded at the Upper Lakes but by the time we got to the Lower Lakes tons of tour groups had descended and made the going a bit tough. Still it was beautiful even with all the people.

    May 29-31
    Ljutomer, Slovenia (Jeruzalem Wine Road)
    Tourist Farm Stari Hrast
    50 euros per night – Somewhat Recommended
    It depends what you’re looking for – it was clean, huge room, really affordable, the owners and people that work there are super nice but no one speaks much English, my husband found the bed really uncomfortable (I slept just fine) and its about a 10 minute drive to the actual Jeruzalem Wine Road.

    I had a hard time planning this part of the trip, I had read about the Jeruzalem Wine Road and even though it was out of our way I really wanted to try it. I’m so glad we did, it’s just so beautiful there with endless amounts of wines to try and super friendly people. Prices here are really good too.

    You can only do so much wine tasting so we also took a drive over to Maribor and saw the oldest vine in the world and then to Ptuj. Of the two I actually preferred Ptuj, its small but very charming and we had a wonderful lunch at “Gostilina Ribic” right on the river. We also toured the castle which was a bit of a hike up from town (or maybe it just felt like that after my big lunch). The castle itself is lovely with great views and they also have quite a few collections of tapestries, musical instruments, costumes, paintings, etc. Its free to walk around the castle grounds and extra to see the collections and the interior but well worth it.

    May 31-June 2
    Ljubljana, Slovenia
    Hotel Slon
    120 euros per night – Recommended
    http://www.ljubljana.info/hotel-slon/

    It was OK, maybe a bit expensive and they are renovating the outside so you can hear construction pretty much all day, we were a little nervous when we noticed we each had a pair of earplugs on our nightstands. Ha! Having said that we were pretty much out and about so it wasn’t really that big of a deal.

    We dropped off our rental car (Budget) at the Grand Union Hotel, really easy to find and walked the couple blocks to our hotel. The total for the car came to 332 euros for 17 days which I thought was a great deal. We definitely got our miles out of it!

    What a charming city Ljubljana is! We had beautiful sunny weather and that helps. Had a lovely, yummy dinner at “Julija” one of the nights. Took a boat ride down the river, toured the castle and just wandered around the city. We easily filled up our two days there.

    We had an early flight (7:45 am) and the hotel arranged for a taxi to take us to the airport (28 euros fixed price), pick up time was 6:00 am which I was a little nervous about, I like plenty of time at the airport especially for international flights but as it turned out they were right – it was plenty of time.

    Just to sum it up – we had such a fabulous trip. We really liked everyplace we went – some we loved and some we liked and none we hated. I would do a couple things different – adding some nights from a couple places and taking away a night or two from others but for the most part I think we’re pretty pleased.

    Please let me know if you have any questions – I’m glad to help!

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    Nice report! I was in Slovenia/Croatia a few weeks earlier (my report will be posted eventually once I get all my pictures done).

    I probably stayed not far from where you stayed in Rovinj - I had to hike into the old town a few times for photography, and it got a little tedious after about the second time. On the other hand, parking was easy. I had the same feelings about Pula and about Groznjan as you did.

    I stayed in Lovran one night and spent only an hour walking around Opatija - really liked what I saw, for what it was. Loved my walk along the Lungomare, would loved to have had better weather and a little more time to walk as far you did...

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    Thanks for your report, CollK! I haven't been to Malta yet, but have been to most of the other areas you visited, so you are bringing back some great memories.

    I agree about Taormina (great views, but overcrowded) and the Villa Romana del Casale (wow!); I agree that the Pension Mayer is a gem, and the Vintgar Gorge well worth seeing; I'm glad your experience of Opatija was different than mine, and agree that the Lungomare is a gem; I'm not surprised (but glad) that you enjoyed the Plitvice Lakes; and agree that Ljubljana is charming.

    "We really liked everyplace we went – some we loved and some we liked and none we hated." -- sounds like a pretty good trip!

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    Hi Andrew and ja,
    I have to admit I was a little intimidated writing this report as there are so many great ones out there, including both of yours which I read thoroughly!

    kja, I think it was your TR that made me most nervous about Opatija! But I can actually see why you hated it and I think I would have also if I had spent much time in the downtown area. There's a spot on the Lungomare (maybe by the mermaid?) where they blast music and I thought of your report as I was walking by. Not sure why they feel they have to do that. Luckily, where we stayed was super quiet and a lovely view on to the sea.

    Andrew, can't wait to read your report and see the pictures.

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    Thanks very much for writing your report. We are leaving for our trip to Rovinj and Slovenia 2 weeks from today and can't wait. Your report gets me even more excited.

    We will be staying at Penzion Mayer, so I'm glad to hear you liked it. I had debated whether to stop at Predjama Castle. Your report has made me decide that we will visit. I just wish that our vacation we're going to be as long as yours!

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    Again, I'm glad you found a pleasant corner of Opatija for your stay. And I appreciate knowing that you passed a part of that town by the Lungomare that may be the stretch that I found so unpleasant, confirming that it still exists -- even if other parts of the city are more quiet. That said, I'm still glad that I opted to stay in Lovran instead -- I may have been in a hotel that had passed its prime, but it was quite and provided stunning sea views and still held an air of Old World elegance. And I am VERY glad I got to enjoy the rest of that magnificent Lungomare at my leisure -- such a special place. :-)

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    I enjoyed your report! You went to some places I haven't been so I'm so glad to read about them. I was in Sicily about 5 years ago...and hit the east/SE region (Catania, Ragusa). It was interestingbut I'm not sure I enjoyed it as much as my trip to Bosnia/Croatia/Slovenia this spring.

    Again, thanks for taking the time to write a report. So many people will benefit from it.

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