Trip report: Cotswold Walking Tour - Nov 2007

Tuesday, November 20th
The morning we set out from London was chilly and raining lightly. We were eager to get to Chipping Camden so we would have some time to scout around before hitting the trail no later than 2:00. We had to make Broadway that day which was a hike of about 5 miles. We got to Chipping Camden and after making a lunch booking at the Noel Arms Pub we wandered around the village, its high street reflecting the quintessence of the area with its honey-hued stone architecture. A once- medieval market town, its prosperity is reflected in the grandeur of St. James Church approached by a tree-lined lane. This wealth is also observed in the associated almshouses cum B&Bs. Our pub lunch was taken before a roaring fire and everything on the menu was tempting.

Afterward we took great pains to be sure we had packed our rucksacks with everything necessary for any eventuality. It continued to drizzle so we were conscious of having the proper wet-gear. Joe & I each carried a camelback and I alone clutched a pair of indispensable walking sticks. It was with a tremendous sense of adventure that we finally bade Karen and Kate farewell to strike off from the well-preserved Market Hall.

The Way followed the paved road for a quarter mile before it evolved into a footpath leading us through the first of many gates into the first of many paddocks. These typical Cotswold fields are scattered with stones making them difficult to cultivate. After a moderate climb we recognized that we were atop an escarpment but the obscurity of the fog prevented us from enjoying the panorama. The trail continues over wide grassy tracks bound by hedgerows and then undulating grasslands and pastures delineated by stone walls and punctuated by the occasional patch of snow (!) near a protective boulder. Eventually looming eerily before us in the mist is Broadway Tower. It was constructed around 1800 apparently a folly since the view from the top is purportedly no different than the view at the bottom. It is here that we begin our descent into Broadway, finally taking a narrow lane between the houses which spills out into this beautiful village. It was dusk, 4:30, and the glow from the lights of the homes and shops gave the wide main street of this impressive town a festive quality, like a scene from a Rockwell painting.

We browsed the shops, picked up a few postcards and supplies, and noted longingly the elegance of the Lygon Arms hotel. The girls discovered Tisane’s Tea Shoppe where we go to warm ourselves with hot toddies and sweets. Back out in the darkness of evening we pile into our van and make the short journey to nearby Willersley, location of our lodgings, the Bell Inn (£80 B&B) with its functional unfussy guestrooms. After settling in with showers and hanging our gear to dry, we convene in the pub for a round of drinks and toasts to our first day on the trail. The atmosphere in the old-world dining room with its cases of collectibles, hanging copperware, and huge stone fireplace was warm and cozy, and we all ordered appetizers of avocado stuffed with shrimp followed by a main course. The abundantly rich starter was a meal in itself and I was overwhelmed by the time my pork roast with trimmings was placed before me. I learned a big lesson from the copious meal – portions in the countryside are huge – and avoided this mistake in the future.

Wednesday, November 21st
The next morning brings the promise of sun. It is chilly but a full English breakfast in the pub would provide the energy we need to head back out on the trail. Now this breakfast is not for the faint of heart for the B&B guest is offered any and all of the following: eggs any style, plump sausages, rashers of bacon, sautéed mushrooms, grilled tomatoes, baked beans, hash browns, black pudding (a type of sausage that defies description) and fried bread. I’m amazed that everyone has such a big appetite after the previous evening’s excesses. I now see why John allowed so much time for our morning ritual. Each meal is prepared from scratch so a leisurely breakfast is requisite. I feel indulgent having bacon with my eggs.

This morning Vern takes Kate’s place in the van with Karen and the walkers resume where we left off in Broadway. The Way takes us through a wooden turnstile then uphill to a point where we look back for fine clear vistas of Broadway and Broadway Tower. We pass over a ladder-stile in the stone wall to enter woodlands with a mixture of birch, oak and ash, and then emerge onto an arable field. We progress along the path which varies from a narrow track between the hedgerow to a grassy corridor, continuously crossing through or over wood or stone fences and walls. At Shenbarrow Hill the trail takes us down through a hollow, following a gently flowing creek. We land in Stanton, an idyllic fairytale hamlet of honeyed stone and thatch with dormers peeking out. There was nary a soul visible on this particular day but I would imagine that, given a summer weekend, it could teem with walkers, and the inherent traffic of a tourist site. Today it seemed untouched and with its lack of commercialism, it may be able to retain its fragile charm. We lunch at the only restaurant, the Mount Inn, which sits at the top of a – well, mount – from which we could gaze down the lane to the unpretentious leafy village. Karen and Vern have pre-ordered soup and sandwiches which we devour heartily, blaming the climb out of Broadway for our appetite. Afterward we amble through Stanton observing winter flower gardens, quaint doorways, eyebrow windows, and figurines of various critters like foxes and a kangaroo atop a number of thatch roofs.

All too soon we leave this delightful scene, only to come upon another when we cross over a wall via stone steps with metal spikes protruding from the top, a clever way to remove mud from the soles of our boots and provide traction. Now the Way passes through lovely rolling parkland of magnificent chestnut and beech. The path cuts a wide swath of dark green grass and cattle graze lazily all around us. We emerge onto a road via a kissing-gate which allows people but not livestock to pass though. We pass a cricket pavilion; then it’s a wee way to Stanway House, a splendid example of Jacobean architecture. The extraordinary gatehouse dates to the 17th century and includes an array of details in its fluted columns, narrow bay windows and gables. We read that the estate includes an outstanding water garden which is often featured in films. Unfortunately it is not open to viewing at this time of year. Next door is a church and churchyard from which we are able to get better views of the mansion.

The guys and Sheila continued on toward Wood Stanway and Hailes Abbey. Their route led uphill to an escarpment which offered spectacular views out across the vale. A well-maintained stone wall captured the interest of all for it was particularly beautiful in design with horizontal layers capped by a row of uniform vertical stones. The trail heads steeply downhill through trees, then through the orchards of Hailes Fruit Farm.

Karen, Kate & I spend the afternoon tootling through the countryside on mostly winding single-track lanes. We pass through hilly, pretty Snowshill and its nearby lavender farm on our way to Lapstone Farm, a home accessories shop and restaurant, housed in a beautiful converted barn. We find a few little gifts for John’s 60th birthday celebration which we plan to hold in Painswick on Friday.

We drive back to meet the others for tea at Hailes by 3:45; their tardy arrival means our break must be brief. I join the walkers for the last couple miles of the day. We pass the remains of Hailes Abbey but do not take the time to explore it. As we head west along a rutted muddy track the sky glows pink with the setting sun. We arrive in Winchcombe at 4:30, well into dusk. The walkers have covered nearly 12 miles today.

Our home in Winchcombe, the Wesley House (₤80 B&B), is on the narrow high street and turns out to be a charming little inn with 5 rooms. Joe & I are given a key to Mumble Meadow, a room at the top of the stairs, fronting the road. The room is delightful with timber beams, warm lighting and Laura Ashley prints. The tiny bath with its short arched doorway was recently renovated but the shower apparatus functions awkwardly, clearly the lack of a mechanical mentality. No matter, I am smitten with the ambiance. After freshening we meet the others in the lounge with its big deep sofas and attendant roaring fire. The staff is friendly and happy to serve us drinks and discuss our dinner options. The formal dining room looks tempting but the menu is over-the-top in description and price. We opt to eat in the garden room/grill/wine bar. We are nearly the only guests but the owner/chef Matthew is celebrating his birthday with his wife and twin boys at the next table. Dinner is delicious and the portions reasonable. We are invited to join the birthday celebration for dessert – cake and lemoncello. We retire to the lounge for a nightcap and more hilarity before bed. I open our little window to the street, delighted to see gently falling snowflakes!

Thursday, November 22nd – Thanksgiving Day
Morning dawns cold but clear and sunny with no accumulation of snow. Joe & I step out to find a post box and view Winchcombe with its narrow high street and mix of architecture. The Dents Terrace was a particularly alluring lane with its pretty townhouses. We meet the others for breakfast in the Wesley House conservatory, awash in sunlight, dressed in white linen and set in lovely silver and china. Hanging from the center of the skylight was an unusual chandelier created by Matthew the chef. The innkeepers describe it as “a center ball of black tree branches interwoven with black glitter twigs. Clear crystal pendants are suspended on fine black lace to add reflection and drama” making quite a statement. At the table the orange juice was fresh squeezed and the tangy yoghurt topped with a delectable raspberry sauce. The homemade marmalade was thick and pulpy – all agree it’s the best they’ve ever tasted. In fact, every morsel was suburb. We were deftly served and thoroughly satisfied.

We departed Winchcombe at our usual 10:00, again Vern accompanying Karen for he had plans to play 9 holes at the Cleeve Hill Golf Course where we would all rendezvous for lunch. The six of us took off hoping to visit 14th century Sudeley Castle but of course it was not the season to tour historical sites so we were only able to observe the exterior. This morning the Way led us uphill through grazing sheep where we were rewarded with great views of Winchcombe and its steeples. The trail takes us through a strip of woodland, climbing higher to an open field. Beyond the field is 4,000 year old Belas Knap, a long Neolithic chambered barrow. We inspected one of the small burial chambers which we were all able to fit in comfortably for a photo. Then we follow the plateau to Cleeve Common, an open area criss-crossed by paths and bridleways. Evidence of quarry work is visible here and there. When we reach the golf course the clubhouse beckons. Our timing is perfect, Vern has just completed his round and Karen has returned from exploring Winchcombe. The clubhouse is bustling and lunch selections like eggplant mousakka and a cheesy lasagna are easily shared and surprisingly satisfying, especially with the accompanying mounds of crisply fried “chips”.

The 2nd half of the day takes the walkers across a scarp and down to Cheltenham, covering about 12 miles this day as well. Karen & I head toward the Slaughters, two villages I recall with fondness from our visit nearly 20 years before. I navigate Karen through the pretty countryside, past lovely little Guiting Power and Naunton. Dark clouds are forming and by the time we reach¬ Upper Slaughter it is drizzling. However, we park the car and wander around the town anyway. It is just as I remember; offering solitude, Cotswold style and the natural beauty of the surroundings. The Lords of the Manor Hotel is a luxurious country house set in 8 acres of beautifully manicured gardens in the center of the hamlet. Otherwise there are only a handful of handsome stately homes made of traditional honeyed stone, set amid woodlands and a shallow flowing stream that must be forded by car or crossed by a narrow wooden footbridge. I am captivated once again by its beauty and photogenic qualities. We drove another mile through the copper-colored forest to Lower Slaughter where the gentle stream widens and small cottages line its banks. Not much has changed since my last visit - the Old Mill with its restored waterwheel, museum and a little shop that sells high quality woolens and assorted treasures are the main attractions. Lower Slaughter Manor with its gorgeous landscape is a picture of utter grace. It is so peaceful here that I would love to spend more time but I’m uncertain as to how long it will take us to drive to Cheltenham. As it is, we arrive after the walkers and they are very pleased to see us as we have all the luggage. When I’m in charge we are bound to cut the timing a bit too close.

The Charlton Kings Hotel (£95 B&B) lacks the charm of the Wesley House and most certainly the manors of the Slaughters. Catering to the business traveler, it reminds me of a small-scale Marriot Courtyard. It is comfortable enough, though, and easy to wash and hang a few pieces of clothing. We meet for a drink in the bar before driving into Cheltenham for dinner. Kate has gone the extra mile trying to find a restaurant that will serve a dinky-di Thanksgiving dinner for us Americans. This is not to be, but the Storyteller Restaurant agrees to prepare pumpkin pie for dessert. This restaurant is quite exceptional. It’s a converted house with lots of rooms all colorfully decorated. They have an impressive looking wine cellar and according to Robert, the list is expansive and varied. Our table is a square that seats two people per side – excellent for conversation. Everyone enjoyed the food with its variety of game like chargrilled ostrich, braised rabbit and Arabian leg of mutton to a vegetable/lentil cassoulet. The promised pumpkin pie was a creamy sliver with a crunchy carmelized crust and was simply the best. By the time we were served the restaurant didn’t have a seat left, it was that popular – and this was a Thursday night.

Friday, November 23
Brilliant sunshine streamed into our window in the morning and it was most welcome. I opened the drapes fully and the view of the dew laden fields nearby was exhilarating. Breakfast was only average in quality but certainly not lacking in quantity. We were all excited, anticipating the forecast calling for clear skies and sunshine. Tonight’s destination was Painswick, a distant 18 miles away. John knew in advance that we could not cover this much ground so we arranged for Karen (along with Vern & Sheila) to give us a lift to the south of Cheltenham, reducing our trek by about 7 miles. The three of them were going to do a little sightseeing and shopping in Cheltenham before they joined us at the pub in Cranham.

This was my favorite day’s walk for its varied scenery, mixture of stiles and fences, and undulating elevations. We picked up the trail at a wooded crossroads and followed the track through a lovely weald, walking a couple of miles on a trail carpeted in tawny leaves. When the trees thinned there were beautiful vistas of the countryside to the west and the prominent Gloucester Cathedral. Eventually we arrived at an open area that follows the escarpment. We are delighted to come across a small grazing herd of Galloway cattle, black with broad white striped middles. They are aloof to our presence allowing us to photograph them up close. The Way now follows a stone wall then loops around back into a copse of mature beech trees. Although visually secluded we are now privy to the sounds of traffic as it attempts to climb a hill on a busy road nearby. Before too long we cross this road and the trail leads us once again into the solitude of woodland which we follow for several miles, offering panoramic views here and there. John’s sense of direction, with the aid of our detailed map, indicates the moment to veer off trail and catch an ancillary track which leads us steeply downhill to the small village of Cranham. We arrive at the Blackhorse Inn ahead of the others only to find that the pub has a booking for 23 other walkers. The publican is a brusque man who tells us he won’t be able to accommodate us but since we must wait for the others anyway we have a hot toddy and manage to take a seat, weighing our options which are few. Robert gets a call from Karen who says they are lost. We sort them out and by the time they show up, we are able to convince the owner to feed us after all. The food is ordered and we are overwhelmed once we are served. Karen and Robert share a briny fish pie and a Greek salad with what appears to be a ½ kilo of feta cheese. The others opt for some version of cottage pies – Guiness beef or Shepherds – which are piled high on large plates, accompanied by equally large plates of steamed vegetables, while I settle for a simple toasted cheese sandwich. I don’t know how they managed to clean their plates but we don’t leave the pub until nearly 3:00. It’s been more than 2 hours since we broke for lunch so we have some ground to cover to reach Painswick before dark.

The Way sticks to the woods for a couple miles and then we are suddenly walking along a golf course set among the earth ramparts of a Neolithic hill fort. We race to reach the top of a hill just about the time the sun is setting in a purple haze. We walk briefly along the rise before plunging back down through the links, the full moon rising in the east. Painswick is not far now and the route is pleasant and easy to follow. We walk into the village at 4:30 after a 10-mile day. Our home for the night is the Cardynham House (£80 B&B), a 14th century building with a rabbit’s warren of guestrooms accessed up narrow staircases in different wings, all charming in their own way. The Connolly’s room is in the attic with high beamed and gabled ceilings and dormer windows. It is massive with a queen bed at one end of the room and twins at the other plus a sitting room. Ours has a canopied bed with soft white linens and lots of fluffy pillows. As usual we meet in the lounge where we decant a bottle specially selected by our wine connoisseur Robert and toast John’s 60th birthday. I lit the sparklers I bought at Lapstone Farms attempting to create a festive atmosphere in lieu of the defunct fireplace. We continued the party at the crowded pub next door where we met a few locals who recommended dinner at the March Hare which happens to be the dining room of the Cardynham House. Although it was Friday night and a wedding party was in town, we were seated at a table in a private room. We enjoyed the evening and afterward took the short walk to St. Catharine’s churchyard to see the famed 99 yews planted around the property. The mature trees created tunneled paths, an eerie sight under moonlight. We wandered a few of the streets noting the change in the architecture as we moved further south in the Cotswold’s.

Saturday, November 24th
Joe & I were up in time to enjoy a photo op with the rosy rising sun. The church steeple was aglow and the yews were all frosty for a brief period…a delightful scene. These yews are something even in daylight. All different shapes, many producing darkened avenues as they join at their apex. Also in the churchyard, the carved table top tombs are known to be exceptionally fine examples of this style. They certainly add to the drama of the setting. The architecture in Painswick lacks the honey hue of other Cotswold villages, but the stately townhouses lining the roads are beautiful. We joined the others for breakfast in the March Hare’s homey atmosphere by the fire. For the first time I saw pancakes on a B&B menu and tried them, but they were disappointing.

Before heading back on the trail we all took a look inside St. Catherine’s Church. Hanging in each pew were pretty kneeling pads each with a different intricate needlepoint design. A wedding was scheduled later that day and the pew-ends were decorated in white floral sprays. The walkers left Painswick in a drizzle, the path leading past farmhouses and then climbing to the outskirts of the village of Edge. It was cold and windy as we continued to climb to the scarp. Views were obscured by the thick gray air. The paths were muddy and slick in spots. We walked in and out of strips of woodland which gives us some protection from the elements until we arrived in Randwick. The pub we had planned for lunch was closed this day and we piled into the van in search of sustenance. A short distance away, the Prince of Wales provided all we needed – sandwiches – following the memory of the gorging at the Blackhorse Inn. Afterward we caught a lift to the other side of King’s Stanley and a main road. Karen & Robert left us at the bottom of another steep climb along a rough open field. The views from the top would probably be impressive on a clear day. We followed this scarp briefly and then the trail plummeted into mature woodland. The track was shin-deep in leaves yet there was plenty of varied color still clinging to branches. The trail hugged the hillside, up and down, for several miles. As the day wore on the light dimmed beneath the canopy of trees and when we finally emerged to open parkland the map indicated we were making some progress. However, we realized we would be arriving in darkness on this, our last day out. We pressed on, quickening our pace, so that not only was I sweating heavily, the wind and rain were penetrating my “waterproof” jacket. John discovered the junction that led us off the Cotswold Way and into Uley where we would spend the night. We gingerly negotiated our way down the slippery narrow path through the coppice, holding hands as we trudged with small steps in the faint light. We knew it could not be far because we heard the occasional car pass on the road below. Why did we not carry the headlamps we so diligently packed? What if someone slips and falls with an injury? When were we going to get there? We mused aloud on these inane questions, giggling as we recalled road trips from our youth. Finally, just as Joe nearly took a header down the path, the light of a streetlamp pierced the darkness and we were saved! We came out on the road triumphant and finished the remainder of the walk on a civilized sidewalk to the Old Crown Inn (£70 B&B). Karen & Robert were whooping it up in the rowdy bar, unaware of our plight but pleased to see us. Tonight’s anchor dram never tasted so good! This was the longest 12 mile day ever.

After a couple toddies at the bar we retired to our simple lodgings to prepare for the last of our festive evenings. Chris and Sally Thorne arrived from Bristol to join us for dinner and hear all about our adventure along the Cotswold Way. John and Karen surprised us all with an awards ceremony which turned into a boisterous affair as we celebrated the 50-odd miles we had hiked in 5 days.

Sunday, November 25th
The day dawned clear and bright. We dressed for a road trip and after breakfast we loaded the van and headed back toward London Heathrow where the Connolly’s would depart that evening. We stopped to have a look at Tetbury and then Malmesbury. The latter is an attractive fortified hill town surrounded by two branches of the River Avon. Malmesbury Abbey – a graceful well-preserved 12th century church boasts a splendid arched ceiling. John recommended stopping at the henge at Avebury, less visited but four times larger than Stonehenge. Dating back to 5,000 years earlier it is considered the largest Neolithic monument in Europe, originally with 98 standing stones. The monument consists of an outer circle and one other remaining inner ring. Avebury village is within the monument and includes a museum, church, several B&Bs and retail shops. We spent a couple hours roaming the site before we felt it best to head to Heathrow given the Sunday traffic. It was a fond farewell we bid Karen & Robert, capturing the only group photo of the entire trip. We continued the drive to London where we spent two nights before heading home ourselves.

Our flight home was uneventful….always a good way to end a holiday.

Thank you so much for the report! How easy is it to follow the paths??? Did you carry maps?

Really enjoyed your report and I'm not really a walker. But you have me thinking if I get in shape we might be able to do part of it in the fall. Great idea to have the van meet you - maybe Karen will hire herself out to do the same for others!

What a fantastic and detailed report! My three sisters and I are planning some time in the Cotswolds next year and hope to do some walking - though not the entire Cotswold Way. However, you have included some very useful information, especially about Winchcombe where we are considering as our base.

Thanks so much!

Thanks so much for this report. The Cotswolds are on my travel list (along with lots of other places!). I've saved this report for someday.

Great report, Mary, and will be a welcome resource for others who research the Cotswold Way. You've provided wonderful details of the walking and of the lodging and meals. Do you have a photo link? Your descriptions have made me curious.

Did Karen have trouble navigating? Did your van have GPS?

If you don't have a Karen, this company will do the same for you...


http://www.sherpavan.com/trails/cotswold_way.asp

This website offers a baggage service and accommodation booking service. However you can book direct with the B&Bs, inns and hotels if you wish and are not using the baggage service.

Mary – we are also contemplating on going to Cotswold (a friend’s recommendation). However, I am not sure if my kids will like it. (ages 8yr, 5yr, and 1yr). Are there any other activities you can do there? Can we stop by there on our way to the Bath and Stonehenge? What’s the best and cheapest means to go there from London? Thanks!

Enjoyed your report Mary. We are spending 3 days in the Cotswolds this summer so the info was awesome.

Loved your report, Mary! We attempted a walk out of Uley last May, but the paths were too muddy for us. Your walk sounds wonderful.

Lee Ann

nothing like the cotswolds...

Hello all - I'm so glad you liked my report. Details are always good to have and this is my diary for life. Now to answer quesstions.

The path is nearly always clearly marked but we absolutely carried maps and they were helpful at times. Half of us were really into checking them regularly just to see where we were on the map! The maps we used were Ordnance Survey maps and very detailed. Our 50-mile or so route was covered in 2 or 3 maps. We had doubles of all maps so the van had a set. The van did not have GPS so the maps were crucial for Karen. She is not an instinctive navigator so usually someone else travelled in the van with her.

As far as kids enjoying the area, I'm afraid I can't really help you here. Since the days were so short in November, we had to focus on reaching our destintion each day. With longer days (or more days!) we may have had time to explore the villages in more depth. Our route did not take us past any kid-friendly attractions.

I have a Shutterfly photo album which I'm happy to share. Try going to the following by cutting and pasting:

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/project/8AZt27Vm2ZNGe_/landing;jsessionid=91BAF2944866FF42B2EF6096F37D104F

We just loved this trip and will definitely return to the Cotswolds but also walk other parts of England. It's all so easy - most of the walkers on our trip didn't even carry a day pack! As far as the need to be fit...sure it helps, but no one experienced a single blister or sore muscles, and not everyone "trained" for this.

Mary

Thank you so much for sharing your pics!!! They are amazing!

A couple of points:

Maps. Whatever guide or leaflet you've got, a proper map is essential. The path isn't always unambiguous, and if you take a wrong turning it can take forever to sort yourself out without a (or rather THE) map. Between October and March, getting lost can be a real problem, since daylight hours are so short. THE map is the Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 (2 and a bit inches to the mile). OL45 for Chipping Campden to Winchcombe: 179 takes you on to Uley. You may need 155, 168 and 160 to take you on further than Mary's done.

The bits relevant to the Cotswold Way are reprinted in some of the publications list at www.nationaltrail.co.uk/cotswold/text.asp?PageId=36

Children: The fields (the Way's a set of rights of way across private land, not a paved path) aren't really suitable for conventional pushchairs. There's a macho thing about serious walks with all-terrain pushchairs. Families that do this would expect 5 and 8 yos to have the stamina to keep up. The fields - especially in spring - are the most child-friendly things on the planet (where else can thgey get so close to deer, calves and lambs?). www.cotswoldsaonb.com has some other activities (like riding) children might like, especially at www.cotswoldsaonb.com/list.asp?pageID=19


Getting here : There are three different railway lines from London: to Charlbury and Moreton in Marsh (whence bus to Chipping Campden), to Cheltenham and to Bath. the Cotwolaonb site has details of using public transport. If you want to take in Stonehenge, it's doable by public transport (there's a reasonable train service between Bath and Salisbury), but driving yourself's a very great deal easier

History and economy . England's never really had anywhere you could call THE centre of the wool trade, except for Calais and its pre-1400 continental predecessors as the staple port. A couple of nice 13th century Italians said we had particularly good wool, but areas closer to the ports than the Cotswolds actually produced and sold a lot more (the market was abroad, even in medieval times). Suffolk probably has nicer wool churches.

The area's distinctiveness comes from the fact that once it lost its wool trade to foreign competition (if people moan about cheap foreign workers today, they might try competing with fabric either picked by real slaves or shorn by convicts), it became a desirable place to live for people who didn't want to build lots of factories, office blocks or theme parks, and were pretty iffy about nasty lower class people growing food on what could be pretty parkland. Other once wool-rich areas got developed from the 18th century: the Cotswolds ducked Progress till their proximity to Heathrow and the advent of telecommuting made the area perfect for 21st century commerce.

Mary: Thank you!Great report....we'll be in the Cotswolds in a few weeks, plan to do some walking.

Stu T.

To all: I copied the above detailed report. I also found a good web site on SlowTrav on Cotswold Walks..now all we need is the energy!

Stu T.

http://www.slowtrav.com/uk/hiking/cotswolds.htm

Thanks flanneruk for mentioning the transportation options to the area. Since we hired our van near London we didn't use any public transport at all. I neglected to mention that for the benefit of dainty23.

jamekins - wow! the photo link actually worked!

Mary, I put your photo link through tinyurl.com so it's clickable.

http://tinyurl.com/6l3gt5

Off to take a look....

Lee Ann

Unfortunately the link won't open for me at all - I can get Mary's 'home page' but when I click on 'view photobook' it just comes up as 'operation aborted'.

But a great trip report, I've enjoyed it very much... from a Gloucestershire resident who lives just a few miles off the Cotswold Way, and in fact I drive across it several times a day between Randwick and Selsley/Kings Stanley!

I'd still love to view your pictures though - can anyone offer advice on how I can view them?

Fabulous photos - wishing I were there!

Wow! What amazing pictures! Thank you for sharing them.

Just wanted to say that I also really enjoyed your trip report. I've just started looking at your photos and what I've seen so far have been wonderful. Thanks for sharing.

Bookmarking in hopes of using the information someday. Thank you for the lovely report!

juliat - if you want to send me an email address I can try sending you the album that way.
Mary

Mary, what a great trip report.

I have often thought I would like to do a walking holiday and we are planning on a walking trip in Tuscany for either 2009 or 2010 with another couple. Your report just makes me all the more determined to make sure that we get our act together with our friends and pull it off.

The Cotswolds are a fabulous area with so much to see and do. It encompasses much of what I think of as being quintessentially English. I would go back there in a heartbeat given a chance.

Many thanks....I am eager to walk so many places now. It's especially good to have your own driver but then it was a pity she wasn't able to walk any of the Way.

Mary

Thanks for the offer Mary, but I managed to view your photos while at work yesterday.

They are wonderful!

Lovely report. Thanks!