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Trip Report: Bavaria, Salzburg, Budapest, Vienna

Trip Report: Bavaria, Salzburg, Budapest, Vienna

Old May 9th, 2004, 02:28 PM
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Trip Report: Bavaria, Salzburg, Budapest, Vienna

Part Two:
On April 2 we went back to the Fussen train station to depart on a complicated scenic route to Salzburg. I had carefully planned the trip, involving three buses to Innsbrook and one train to Salzburg via St. Viet. However, best laid plans...

When we bought our ticket from the bus driver, he said the roads are full and buses will be behind schedule. He recommended taking his bus to Reutte then going by train to Garmish and then to Innsbrook. I was skeptical, because everyone in Austria seemed intent on having us be efficient-- meaning take the train from Fussen to Munich (backtracking--YUCK!) and then a train to Salzburg. As our bus wound around through farming villages we crossed the freeway which was backed up for several miles. This was the first day of a two-week vacation for Autrians and they were all on the road. The bus driver was right. We switched plans.

We had a couple of hours in Innsbrook and walked into the old town which is near the train station to gawk at old buildings and distant mountains and have lunch at Weinerwald.

Back on the train, we enjoyed the scenery, but it doesn't touch the scenic train routes in Switzerland. Total bus and train cost for the full day 73.90 euros for two. By the way, travel by two on the trains is frequently a bargain.

I had reserved on the internet for Gasthaus Steinerhof on the outskirts of Salzburg. Herr Hausler had said he would pick us up at the rr station when I phoned him upon arrival. It was about 6:30 p.m. by the time we got in and I went in search of a phonecard, then discovered that the nearby phones took coins, not phonecards. (Anybody want to buy an unused Vienna phone card? Never mind--its a nice souvenir.) Made the call to Herr Hausler whose English is not terrific and he said he'd meet us at the post. What post, I wondered? So I asked the guy who sold me the phone card. Turns out there is a Post Office on the front side of the Bahnhoff, right beyond the Burger King. We were starving, and grabbed burgers while we waited for Herr Hausler.
The Gasthaus Steinerhof is beautiful (if you do a search you can find my description in another post) and a great price. We were there for four nights and the bus trip to town became routine and we did not mind not being in the center since it was such a short trip. We only took a taxi once, late a night after a concert.
(to be continued)
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Old May 9th, 2004, 02:36 PM
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I enjoyed your first segment and enjoyed this one.
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Old May 9th, 2004, 03:05 PM
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Part three: Salzburg
Elsewhere on this board, someone recently posted the things they did in two days in Salzburg and I was amazed! We had three full days and did not get to as many places as they did.

On the first morning (Sunday) we enjoyed our huge breakfast at Steinerhof and headed off on the bus to town. (Note: I've been on a low-carb diet for nearly two years and despite lots of cafes and desserts I did not gain a pound. Partly because I walked all the time. Partly because of those protein-filled Germanic breakfasts)

We met a tour guide, Anneliese Strohbach ([email protected])She escorted us on a three-hour walking tour of the old town. It was a wonderful introduction to the history, culture, architecture, etc. We started at Mozart Platz, walked past, but not in the main sites on both sides of the river, including Maribell, but not including Kapuzinerberg. Lots of wedding parties, many in traditional costumes were waiting to get in to Maribell. Ironic, since it was built by an archbishop Wolf Dietrich for his lady love,Salome, with whom he lived in sin and made lots of children.

We were making mental lists of things we wanted to come back to.We took the funicular to the top of the Hohensalzburg and after walking around the exterior parts, she left. We had lunch at the little cafe up there in the fort and while my husband rested his feet, I walked through the interior museums. We had reservations for the Mozart dinner concert that evening, so went back to rest a bit and dress for dinner. We were a little confused trying to find our way back to St. Peter's Stiftskeller, the "oldest restaurant." (We ate at Botin, the other "oldest restaurant" when we were in Madrid, but it only dates to the 18th century, whereas this one claims Charlemagne ate here.) The Mozart concert was lovely in a beautiful baroque room with extremely talented young musicians. The meal was not up to the music, unfortunately.

Very rainy day on Monday, a work day for me--a writer. I interviewed the people planning the 250th birthday party for Mozart in 2006 and then had a backstage tour of the Salzburg Marionette theater. Unfortunately, I did not get to see a performance, but I certainly would recommend it to anyone. NOT just for children. As Frau Gretl Aicher, the grande dame of the marionettes says, "In the afternoon we do the shows for children for money. At night we do the operas for adults for love." Their beautifully carved marionettes perform operas and ballets in a gem of a gold and cupid covered little theater.

Lunch at the Salzburg branch of Sacher Hotel where we had the Sacher Nockerle-- a specactular meringue dessert which looks better than it tastes. Then we walked over to the train station to get tickets for the next leg of the journey and roamed through the old town a bit. I went into the Residenz because I wanted to see the rooms, but there was an art and antique show that cost ten euros and blocked most of the stuff I really wanted to see. While I was snug inside, my husband got caught in thunder and lightening and hail stones. By the time I came out the sky was blue. We headed for the Glockenspiel Cafe (one of Mozart's haunts) and I braved the very wet balcony to take some pictures. It would be a great place on a sunny day with fabulous views of the fort, the Cathedral and the Glockenspiel, etc. Mozart platz is piled with construction materials and scaffolding and cranes dominate the skyline. It seems nearly everything is being refurbished with the Birthday in mind. The "New" Residence will become the city museum, new theaters are being built at the Festival Halls, the University is being updated, etc. etc.

Quick dinner at Nordsee and back to the Pension.

(One more day in Salzburg--to be continued)
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Old May 9th, 2004, 03:10 PM
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I have never been to Salzburg but do agree about the marionnette operas. They played the Kennedy Center several years ago and I saw them do 3 operas. I have never seen anything like it. From a distance you would swear the marionnettes were alive.
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Old May 10th, 2004, 02:05 PM
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Final day in Salzburg:
Rain, rain, rain drove us to find as many indoor spaces to explore as possible. Our first stop was the Mozart Geburthaus, a charming little museum in the rooms where Mozart's family lived when he was born. When you look out the window you see virtually the scene that they would have seen in the 18th century. It was here that I decided that Strasburg (at least the altstadt) is a city preserved in amber. I am standing beside a pianoforte that Mozart played, looking out across a narrow pedestrian way to Kollegienkirche where he performed his compositions. To continue soaking up the atmosphere, we went into the Mozart Geburthaus Cafe and ate a second breakfast of rhubarb-apple-almond tart mit schlag with tea. This is a serene and pretty room that is well worth seeking out. (Note to tea lovers: throughout Austria menus listed several types of tea and we rarely had to resort to the green tea and decaf tea bags I carry in my purse).
Keeping to our Mozart theme, we crossed the river and went to the "Dancing Master's House", the house where the Mozarts lived when they started raking in the profits from little Wolfie and his sister. The museum is beautifully set up. Only one room is furnished as it would have been, but there are cases and cases of letters and music from the family, musical instruments and portraits. An audio wand gives you a guided tour in English.Two film/slide shows complete the overload of information. Note: Except for a very small portion, this is not the original building. That was bombed in WWII, along with 75% of the buildings in Salzburg. Someone built a modern building on the site and eventually that was torn down and this very authentic-looking reconstruction was erected.

Oh dear, we've been nearly two hours without a cafe, so we must stop in at the attached Cafe Classic. Ken had the Chocolate Melange (hot chocolate which came with a small glass of water and a Mozart candy). I had the Mozart Melange (coffee and chocolate with the same stuff on the side). I bought the pretty gold trimmed cups with Mozart's silhouette to bring home to help me deal with cafe withdrawal.

Our tour guide had advised that we go to the top of the Stein Hotel for the view, and since it was lunch time that was our next step. The Stein Hotel is one of the buildings that line the river on the opposite side from the aldstadt. They are all relatively recent, as the river used to be wider. Once it was tamed into a channel the building space was used in the nineteenth century. On the seventh floor of the Stein Hotel we found the Terasse Restaurant with 360 degree views of Salzburg. Simply the most spectacular place we'd seen. Because of the rain we could not take advantage of the huge outdoor terrace, but the indoors area has floor to ceiling windows and the view over the rooftops was wonderful. So was the food and service.(Two lunches only 18 euros). Wonderful and strange art nouveau tile decorations spice up the hotel, including the quirky bar. The hotel itself is in renovation, due to reopen in 2005 with rooms looking out on the river at about 150 euros and those on the town somewhat less.
Refueled, we walked back across the bridge and strolled through Getreidegasse, the pedestrian street with gorgeous signs hanging over every shop, including one for a familiar restaurant with a golden arches design on its "ancient" sign.
Our final destination for the day was the Caroline Museum (the city historic museum which will move in 2006 to Mozart Platz). This is a wonderful museum, but would have been even more wonderful if we could read German. No signs or audio guides or books in English.
Stopped at Billa market to pick up some provisions for our train trip tomorrow and retired to Steinerhaus. Frau Hausler gave us a large thermos of hot water and a couple of cups so we could have tea in our rooms as we re-arranged and packed for Budapest.

Notes: Remember to ask for senior discounts if you are 60 or over.

We were told about wonderful chocolate candy made with all natural ingredients that is sold out of a shoe store (!) on Kaigasse, not far from Mozart Platz. We never made it there, and would love to hear from anyone who does.

You may note the absence of Sound of Music. We were told by someone who went on one of the ubiquitous tours that it was quite scenic as it goes to the lake region. The Austrians never cared for the movie because it doesn't use their real music and makes them look too compliant with the Nazis, but they welcome the visitors who loved the movie.
(to be continued.)
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Old May 11th, 2004, 08:40 AM
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topping to keep the two sections of my trip report together. Budapest coming soon.
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Old May 15th, 2004, 02:35 PM
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Part Five: The One Where They Go to Budapest
Lucky me, I won a stay at a condo in Budapest. (The owner does rent it out so if you want a luxury place to stay e-mail me at [email protected]--take out the x)
April 7, a cold and rainy day we had our hosts in Salzburg call a taxi and we took the train from Salzburg, which goes through Vienna to Budapest. It was an EC (European City), 2nd class one-way including highly recommended seat reservations came to 142.20 euros. The reserved seat charge of 6.80 euros was a waste because the computer assigned us to a non-existant seat and we wound up just taking an open seat. The train, the Bela Bartok, has comfortable seats, sa shelf attached to the window for snacks, and a 230 volt outlet where you can plug in a laptop. We doze and enjoy the scenery for the six-hour trip. The change in the villages is dramatic as we cross into Hungary. Austria is so much more prosperous. An announcement in Hungarian, German and English comes over the speaker welcoming us to Hungary and green-jacketed customs officers come through. They look closely at the belongings of a guy with a pony tail, but ignore everybody else. Budapest Kelety Station is enormous and was once ornate, but is mostly grimy now. People hawking rooms, souvenirs and taxis crowd the platforms. While Ken watches the bags, I go down one level to get a phone card and phone the landlady to say we are coming. First I have to get some money and can only find one ATM that gives florins. A long line forms, the machine doesn't work well so it takes forever for each person to get his money.
Despite being warned not to take unmarked cabs in Budapest, when we step out the front of the station, that is all we see. I have a list of the names and phone numbers of the cab companies. One is called City Cab and a guy comes up and says that he is City Cab. When I asked him for the phone number, he doesn't know it. Then a younger fellow approaches and gives the correct phone number so we follow him. His shabby car has no official markings on it, which we later learn are on the legitimate cabs. He delivers us to the difficult-to-approach apartment, and even carries our luggage a block to the door, so we don't mind that we pay him the equivalent of $15.00. When we call a FO cab to go back to the station it costs the equivalent of $7.00. If you want to avoid our mistake--go out the SIDE doors of the station, not the front. That is where the company cabs stand, and they are clearly marked on the side.
The apartment is located on the side of the plaza of the great St. Stephans cathedral. 2nd floor, light filled. We can sit at the small dining table in a bay window and people watch the throngs. We settle in and feel quite at home as we start doing laundry and go to the grocery down the street for provisions.
That night we ate at the Dom Restaurant on the opposite side of the church plaza. Sweet young man with impeccable English as a waiter, but his mother the cook is no Emeril. The food is plain awful.
On Thursday morning we walk the couple of blocks to Ferenc Deak Ter, the center of lots of activity, including being a transportation hub. We stop at the not-very-helpful tourist office and find a bus for a two-hour city tour, $24.40 each, headphones in English. A live guide would have been better, but we saw all the highpoints and had a nice photo stop at Hero's Square and up on the hill in Buda overlooking the Danube.Boulevards are wide and there are myriad parks, making for a pleasant city. Beautiful baroque palaces shoulder up to 30's and more modern construction, but large hunks of plaster have fallen off, paint is peeling and little restoration is going on.
I made a long mental list of things to return to, but we did not get to most. Note for PDA owners:I had downloaded the Fodor's Guide to Budapest on my Palm Pilot, but was very disappointed. It was difficult to use and nearly worthless. Many things that are useful in the books are not on the PDA version.
A walk down Vaci Utca for people watching and shopping at a couple of folk art shops and lunch at Apostolik. This fun Restaurant was made to look like a church. The seats are uncomfortable as church benches, but the food was terrific.
Back at St. Stephen's we bought postcards from a guy who got excited about us being from Arizona because he had read about space aliens in New Mexico and Arizona!
Then chatted with university students selling tickets to a folk dance concer. A young man led us a couple of blocks to the theater and we bought tickets for the next night.
Friday morning we walked across the nearby Chain Bridge and hoped to take the funicular up to the Castle District, but it was being repaired, so we took a bus. You are supposed to buy tickets before boarding, but we got on and tried to buy from the machine on the bus. It didn't work in the short time on the bus, so we had a free ride. Spent the day walking around,after a tea stop at a cafe by the bus stop. The rest of the day was spent visiting the history museum (beautifully done and lots of English signage), stopping at the tiny Russworm cafe for pastries and tea and pastry to go. A stop at Fisherman's Bastion. The beautiful Mathias Church was closed to the public that day and we walked on to the end of the hill for the Military Museum. I was looking for a display on the 1956 Hungarian Revolution, but it is no longer there. Very few signs in English, but wish I could have talked to the old vets who were standing around in the rooms. Lots of art by Hungarian-American artist, Bodo. One more cafe on the hill--Miro, a modern, hip place where I ate weinerschnitzel and french fries. I found these cafes in an out-of-print book, Cheap Eats in Prague, Vienna and Budapest. The book, available from various amazon affiliates proved very useful.
Friday night, the Hungarian folk dancers in their beautiful little baroque theater. It was a fun show, but I thought rather overpriced at about $50 for the two of us. Eight talented dancers and five musicians. At ten p.m. we walked back through the empty, well-lighted streets to our apartment. Shopping on Vaci Utca before catching the train for Vienna. Same Bela Bartok that we came in on. Charming dining car in orange and purple art deco trim and a pretty good meal of traditional Hungarian food.
We enjoyed our relaxed time in Budapest, and left lots of stuff to do on a return trip!

Next stop Vienna
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Old May 15th, 2004, 03:04 PM
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Part Six: The One Where They Go to Vienna
Honestly, I'm going to try to make this shorter.
Saturday train from Budapest to Vienna cost $58.33 for two. Nice train, nice dining car.
Stayed at Pension Suzanne (thanks Fodorites!). Nice location, nice staff, very small room and bathroom. Great breakfasts! Walked to the Musikverien for a Vienna Symphony Concert. It would be special under any circumstances, but this was a televised spring concert, mostly Strauss and the hall was decked with flowers. Ate a little bite in the bar downstairs before the concert, drank a little champagne at the intermission and stopped at Sacher Hotel for desserts afterwards. SIGH! The perfect evening.
Next morning, Easter, we walked over to see the Vienna Boy's Choir Mass. Or rather NOT see the V.B.C. since they sing from an upper balcony and only appear briefly for a short number at the end of the mass. However the orchestra, boy's choir and a men's choir made heavenly music from way up there somewhere and it was true surround sound.
Then by metro to Schoenbrunn Palace for the 40-room tour. Hoped to take pictures outdoors and enjoy the Easter Market, but it was a very cold and rainy day, so we mostly stayed inside. I'm so sorry I missed the gardens and the Gloriette. Enjoyed dessert at the cafe.
Other activities in Vienna: Toured the Hofburg (too much time in the silver and china); ate at Cafe Mozart and Palusstube across from Pension Suzanne, and Cafe Greinsteidl (yummy) near the Hofburg. Ate Sacher Torte at Demel's and bought loads of chocolate for gifts in the beautiful boxes. What a great gift shop and fun to watch the chef's through a glass wall making their concoctions. We took a LONG walk trying to find Harry's Time restaurant, so highly recommended here, and it was closed for Easter weekend! Also tried Konigsburger across from pension, and in my "Cheap Eats" book. It was closed too. Bummer.
On our wandering, I noticed a Theater Museum near Hofburg and went back there w/o husband because I'm a theater grad. Lovely and creative museum--a great little find, since I had not seen it in any guidebooks.
We loved walking around in Vienna and took the trolley all around the Ring to give us a view of the things we were not going to have time for.
The folks at Pension Suzanne were excited when I told them they are well though of on the Fodor's board. (As had been Frau Strauss in Hohenschwangau)
Just scratched the surface of Vienna in our three days, and would like to come back in warmer weather.
Next stop Munich.
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Old May 15th, 2004, 06:02 PM
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Old May 15th, 2004, 06:09 PM
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Great trip report, but just curious why you topped it after it was posted 3 hours ago?
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Old May 16th, 2004, 02:03 PM
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FINAL Part: The One Where They Go to Munich and Then Fly Home
Train from Vienna to Munich with a change at Salzburg cost more than other tickets--105.90 euros for two 2nd class tickets. However when we changed trains at Salzburg I wandered clear through the train looking for a seat I liked in a non-smoking car and ran into the conductor and asked, "Are there any more 2nd class cars?" He said, "Never mind--sit in a first class compartment." So we did!
Because of raves here, I had reserved on line the Hotel Uhland. Two nights cost close to $200 American (161.50 euro)but it is a very nice place in a quiet neighborhood and only half a block from a metro stop. And by the way, it celebrates its 50th annyv. next year and the woman who runs it is 3rd generation. We walked 15 minutes from the train station. The sidewalks are bumpy, so we were pulling our wheeled luggage down a smooth strip beside the sidewalk when an American with a group of teenagers warned us we were on the bike lane. "Better watch out. They're vicious!" she said. But we took our chances and didn't run into any bikes. The surly guy at the visitors bureau at the Bahnhof had given us a map and directions for getting to Uhland.
Our room was small-ish but had windows on two sides overlooking the tree-lined streets.
The man at the desk recommended we eat at Pauliner Brauhaus and we walked the 15 minutes there. It is very Bavarian-touristy, but great fun! There weren't many people when we arrived at the typical wooden-table with benches huge hall, but a few busloads of Chinese visitors arrived soon afterward. Pauliner beer is sold everywhere in Munich, but it is made right here. Two smaller rooms plus a bar are options for dining.
In both Austria and Germany the asparagus (spergle) season is a very big deal, and the Brauhaus had an entire special spergle menu. Skipping the more mundane entrees, I had asparagus for dessert--white asparagus with mango sauce and ice cream with chocolate sauce on the side. I think the chocolate sauce sent the whole thing over the top.
The next, very cold, day we walked to Marienplatz and enjoyed the buildings along the way. Missed the glockenspiel performance by a few minutes, but found a beautiful craft shop beside the cathedral. We stopped to see a richly decorated small baroque church. Wanting to stay out of the cold, we spent most of our time at the State Museum which is excellent. If you are a music buff you must not miss it. The top floor is all musical instruments from all over the world.
We also visited a couple of churches and were reminded of the terrible damage caused to Munich by bombing during the war. Each church has a display of before and after pictures.
Lunch at another touristy place--Donsl, on a side street near the Marienplatz. We ate upstairs at a table with a view of the square, murals of 18th century scenes with colors like old tapestry. All special meals were 6.95 euros. Stopped at the Augustiner for a dessert and just to see it. Easy-to-use metro back to the hotel.
The next morning, April 15, we took a taxi back to the train station, having unfolded our spare bag to fill with gifts, and took the bus back to the airport. (That made 6 small bags, and my big purse) We got there early enough to go to the Luftsansa counter and get our rotten back row tickets changed. We were treated much better than we had been at their counter in Charlotte on the trip out.
Munich airport is new and beautiful and user friendly. They actually have posts with signs giving directions to all the stores and restaurants. But OH, the security measures. As another poster has mentioned in another thread, we passed through two security checks and on the second one had to take shoes off and were wanded besides going through the scanner. The first time I have been asked to remove "tennis shoes".
Arrival at Charlotte where we transferred to Phoenix was a little rushed because the passport control was VERY slow, and we were pulled over by customs where they took away two vacuum-packaged summer sausages I had brought from Vienna. I thought they were legal when wrapped that way, but they said, "No meat from Germany." Never mind arguing distinctions with a bureaucrat. They did not care about our $200 worth of chocolate.

Let me know if you'd like any more info.

Vera
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Old May 17th, 2004, 03:59 AM
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Vera -

Thanks for the trip report. We are planning our next trip to Germany, so we appreciate the information you provided.

We spent a day and a half in Salzburg in 1997 and quite enjoyed the city. I remember reading about the Marionette Theatre and wanting to go there, but just didn't have enough time to fit it into the schedule (a reason to return to Salzburg someday). We did take the Sound of Music Tour and thoroughly enjoyed it. The Lake District north of Salzburg was just beautiful - plus, I'm an SOM fan.

Sounds like you had a wonderful journey. Peace.

Robyn
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Old Aug 18th, 2004, 04:40 PM
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Vera - What was the room at Pension Suzanne like? Was this the one with the shower or the bath? Two twin beds or a double bed? Any additional info would be great. Thanks.

~gnr~
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Old Aug 18th, 2004, 07:25 PM
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Glad you liked Suzanne. Isn't that a great location? Our room was overlooking the restaurant across the street. I think we had a shower and double bed (last year).
I guess you're not an art fan. I never was, but now that I'm retired, my interests are broadening. The Kunsthistorisches Museum is not to be missed. Great paintings, nicely displayed, good audio, comfortable restaurant in beautiful architecture.
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Old Aug 31st, 2004, 03:34 PM
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to gnrbernstein: Our room at the Pension Suzanne had two twin beds on opposite sides of the room and it had a shower. No view. The location of the Pension Suzanne is great and the people are nice, and probably is a fair price for central Venice, but the room was just adequate, nothing special.
tomboy: We do love art, it is just that on this trip we were kind of "majoring" in Mozart and therefore spent time at concerts and palaces and just ran out of time before we got to the art museums. I was thrilled to discover the theater museum.
It would be nice to go back and see some of the things we missed!

Vera
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Old Jul 2nd, 2005, 06:46 PM
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Vera,
Your report was very helpful for someone planning a trip to Vienna.
 
Old Jul 3rd, 2005, 01:11 PM
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Thanks. Hope you enjoy your own trip and post a report.
Vera
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