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Trip Report: 2 Weeks In Spain – Solo Woman Traveler
I’m not sure if this will be helpful to anyone, but it would have been helpful to me, so here it goes. I’m a solo woman traveler in my mid 30’s, and I just got back from two weeks in Spain. I stayed in Barcelona, Madrid, and Toledo, then headed back to Madrid. I’m going to share some observations, and offer several suggestions, comments, etc. Brace yourself –I’m rather verbose.
ITINERARY:
Flew from U.S. to Barcelona (via U.K.)
Barcelona – 4 nights
Madrid – 4 nights
Toledo – 2 nights
Madrid – 2 nights
Flew from Madrid to U.S (via U.K).
*Looking back on my itinerary, 4 nights and Barcelona and 4 nights in Madrid were just right. However, if I had to do it over again, I probably would have cut back Toledo to one night (see below) and then either just stayed in Madrid one night (rather than two) and flown home OR conversely, I would added a couple of days and gone straight from Toledo to Sevilla (which I did not see) for two or three days before returning to Madrid. Given the all of the delays on the train, I would definitely recommend spending the night in Madrid the night before your flight home (rather than, say, going straight from Toledo to the airport).
GUIDEBOOKS: I used info from Fodor’s postings and the 2007 Spain guides from both Rick Steves' and Lonely Planet. Fodor’s web postings saved me many, many times. Rick Steves’ book was great, and I ate at almost every single restaurant he recommended. All were great – some a bit pricey but worth it. His book wasn’t so good for night-life. If you want to know the clubs and dance places to go to, refer to Lonely Planet. Lonely Planet had the worst maps, particularly for Toledo and Madrid (actually had some wrong street names, etc.). Also, since the publications of these books, the Metro in Madrid has added stops and an airport connection (see below, near end of post)
FLIGHT: *Flew British Airways from the U.S. to Barcelona (connected in London). Then flew BA back from Madrid to the U.S. via U.K. Overall, BA rocks. Great service, great flight, and they gave us lots of wine and chocolate. Only one complaint: I am 5’4 and 125 pounds and the “world traveler” economy seats felt really cramped and small to me. If I had it to do over again, I’d probably fork out the money for business class, if only for the sole purpose of actually being able to exhale during the flight. Aside from that factor, British Airways is the best airline, hands down.
SECURITY: Expect to go through security at least 2 or 3 times. For some reason, I heard a lot of Americans complaining loudly and not understanding why they had to go through security so many times - especially when they had connections to countries in Europe to and from the U.K. It’s important to realize that England and Spain, for example, are two different countries. I know, I know – it shocked me too. But seriously, expect to go through security in each place. As soon as you get off the plane in the U.K. head for the nearest bathroom, and then know that you will have to stand in line again before you can get on your connecting flight to Spain. Just accept it.
LIQUIDS AND GELS: As expected, the U.K and Spain were both very strict about liquids and gels. My suggestion is that you read the web site for the airline and the airports BEFORE you get to the airport. This will save you a lot of grief. In the U.K. for example, they were really strict about making sure that passengers had put their carry-on liquids and gels in a small zip-lock bags - and the fact that passengers were only allowed 3 oz containers of these products. How strict were they? Well, the pilot for my flight from the U.K. to the U.S. seemed to think that he was exempt from this rule. He was not. While we (the passengers) were all waiting for him on the plane, our pilot was stuck in security – they would not let him through with the large amount of liquids he brought (this was announced very apologetically over the PA system on our plane). He was forced to go back and check his bag. As a result we were delayed an hour and a half.
CARRY-ONS and PURSES: Expect to be able to only bring ONE carry-on bag on your connecting flight, and that your PURSE counts as your carry-on. Yep. On some flights – as of very recently - a purse now counts as a carry-on bag. Twice in the U.K., they had me put my purse into my backpack. I expected this because they had this information posted on the British Airways web site, which I checked the day before my trip. For women who were NOT able to fit their purses into their backpacks, etc., security said it counted as TWO carry-on bags, and they made these women actually go BACK to the check in counter and check the second bag. This didn’t happen in Spain, and I couldn’t quite figure out what the overall rule was. Maybe just luck of the draw. At any rate, if you can plan on having your purse fit into your backpack/carry-on – so that you can quickly slip one into the other while in line for security - you’ll be fine.
MONEY: If you have a connecting flight in the U.K. (Heathrow for example), before you leave the U.S., you might want to get some British pounds. I got a 20 pound note from my bank before I went on my trip (along with a couple hundred in Euros). I was VERY glad that I did this because my flight from the U.K to Spain was delayed at Heathrow. I was exhausted after flying 10 hours from California, and I just wanted something to eat quickly. I am not a patient woman when I’m hungry. Luckily, I had the 20 pound note, and didn’t have deal with trying to find an ATM or with exchanging currency. The line for currency exchange was HUGE – filled by all the folks on my flight who didn’t realize that the U.K. does not use the Euro.
In Spain, I used my Visa for almost all major transactions (dinner, hotel, train tickets), and used cash for everything else. With regard to tipping: even when I used my Visa to pay for dinner, I always tipped in cash (the waiters said they wouldn’t ever see their tips if they didn’t get it in cash). I made it a habit of ONLY carrying my Visa with me, and a bit of cash. I always left my ATM card in my money belt or the hotel safe (Why? One girl I knew had been using her ATM card for everything. A pickpocket stole it from her backpack (while it was on her back), and proceeded to use to charge tons of merchandise, thus completely wiping out both her checking and savings (both of which were linked to the card).
BARCELONA ARRIVAL – Took the Aerobus to Placa Catalunya and stayed at a great hotel (Hotel Gran Via) off the Gran Via in the Eixample area. This was a nice, safe area and I felt fine walking around alone, even up until 11:30pm or so. The cool thing about my location is that it was only 2 blocks from El Corte Ingles (major department store with everything you could possibly need), and 2 blocks from Placa de Catalunya (city center). It was close enough to the Ramblas and the Barri Gotic, but far enough away to be safe. The other cool thing is that the #50 bus picks you up right across the street, and takes you all the way to Montjuic (great if you like Joan Miro!) and back.
BARCELONA - MAKEUP AND HAIR: I really wish I hadn’t brought as much makeup and as many hair products as I did, because I didn’t use half of it and had to drag it around on the entire trip. When I got to Barcelona, I was really surprised at how very few of the women wore even a single drop of makeup. It seemed like most of them had very natural looks, and that they didn’t really use visible hair products (Caveat: This was true up until about midnight. Then, when people started to go out, I saw a bit more makeup. But still not that much). By the second day, I toned it way down and just used a tinted base with sunscreen and mascara. Oddly, even my light lip-gloss made me feel conspicuous – and being a solo traveler, I didn’t particularly want to draw a lot of attention to myself. I didn’t care that much about not looking like a tourist. I mean, let’s face it - it was obvious that I was a tourist by the perpetually confused and lost expression on my face and the fact that I was holding a 3 X 5 foot map. I just didn’t want to stand out too much.
BARCELONA: CLOTHES: The look was very casual and very European. I didn’t see a single person in shorts. It was warm and several women had tank tops, but almost always with a light sweater or cover – very tasteful (Note: remember that you’ll need a light sweater or cover up for going into any churches. No bare shoulders, thighs, or tummies). Very rarely did I see a lot of skin displayed, except for the high-school girls in Barcelona (saw much more skin Madrid). It was way too warm for jeans there, except at night. You can easily buy jeans at Mango or Zara (really cute styles there); I mostly wore khakis and capris. I saw a lot of women wearing light skirts and dresses. I didn’t see a lot of high heels except during the “going out” hours. Quite frankly, I wore my heels two or three times to dinner, but because of the sidewalks and (literally) walking for 8 or 9 hours each day, I was afraid that I was going to break my neck wearing heels. I opted for sandals.
SUNSCREEN: Use it. The sun seemed to be much more intense in Barcelona – not hotter, just more intense. I’m fair-skinned and I’m really glad that I wore sunscreen and a base. I noticed that only Americans and teen-aged boys wore baseball caps or visors. That said, I wish I had worn some type of sun hat. My scalp and forehead and nose got totally fried on the first day there, even with the sunscreen.
DINNER in BARCELONA: I went out to dinner every single night by myself. This was totally fine. I met a lot of really nice people this way. I always brought my guidebook so I had something to look at when I felt awkward or needed something to “do.” The guidebooks served as a nice conversation tool: several people noticed the guidebook and would ask where I was from. Several other tourists saw my books and then gave me tips about where they had just been. I got some great advice that way about what restaurants to try, where to go out, etc.
*I didn’t see too many women dining alone. Almost everyone was with someone else. At times I’ll admit this got a bit lonely, as Spain seems to be a very social and romantic place. But overall, I’m really glad that I went out to dinner every night. I took the “when in Rome” approach to eating, and tried every single thing that I’d never tried before. My stomach was absolutely killing me from all the fried food, meat, and beer, but what the hell. And don’t worry – you’ll walk it off. The Rick Steve’s recommendations for restaurants were perfect.
Note for veggies: Although I’m not a vegetarian, I eat mainly salads, fruits, and soy/tofu products. This type of diet was difficult to maintain in Spain, but not impossible. My savior was the supermarket in the basement of El Corte Ingles department store: there you can find beautiful fresh fruit, soy products, yogurts, and a ton of organic foods.
CLUBS: I didn’t go out to any clubs in Barcelona, mainly because people seemed to go out at around midnight and I was still too jetlagged and sunburned to move by that point (and from my point of view, Madrid had a better night-life for the solo woman traveler – it was easier to be out late in Madrid to me for some reason).
ATTENTION from MEN: I am blonde-haired and blue eyed, and in my mid 30’s. I’m no stunner, but I sure as heck wouldn’t wear a bag over my head either. I was not bothered at all in Barcelona. The worst I encountered was some older men who asked why I wasn’t married, or where my husband was. I actually felt a bit invisible in Barcelona, which is actually what I wanted.
Madrid was a different story. See below.
METRO and BUS in BCN: I walked a lot, but I also took the Metro and the bus quite a bit. The pack of 10Metro tickets (T10) was a good investment.
TRAIN: Took the train from Barcelona to Madrid (about 5 hours). Note: expect brief security checks at the train stations, consisting of quick screenings of your luggage. No big deal and very quick. Metro was very easy to figure out.
*I bought my train ticket a few days before by going to the train station (Sants Station) itself. I could have bought it at a travel agency in Barcelona, but I wanted to see what the train station was like before my actual train trip. I’m glad I did. That trip let me know that that there was no way in hell I was going to try to drag my luggage on the Barcelona Metro. It was WAY too crowded, just ripe for pick-pocketing (I have to say that I was more concerned about pick-pocketing in Barcelona than I was in Madrid. I saw more incidents in Barcelona – not sure why).
*Instead, I used the airport shuttle (Aerobus) (Lonely Planet provided this tip). Aerobus does NOT apparently stop at the train station on the way FROM the airport TO the Placa de Catalunya, but it DOES stop at Sants Station FROM the Placa de Catalunya TO the airport (if that makes any sense). This option was much, much better then dragging my luggage through the BCN Metro. The first Aerobus left Placa de Catalunya around 5:30am. The train station was the second or third stop.
*The train trip itself was just great. After 4 days of walking until I dropped, sitting on the train for a few hours was really nice. The scenery was interesting and pretty– the train went along the coast for a bit, and then through the hills. Most beautiful of all: the huge fields of red poppies. I just listened to my i-Pod and chilled out. They played a movie too. By the time I got to Madrid, I was well-rested and ready to party.
ARRIVAL IN MADRID: Arrived at Atocha train station and took the Metro from the train station (Atocha Station) to my hotel. As I learned later, had I simply walked, it would have only been a 20-minute walk to Puerta Del Sol (most people just called it “Sol”) - but it would have been uphill in the pouring rain (it poured like crazy in Madrid for all 4 days I was there). Via the Metro, I emerged in Sol in the midst of beautiful chaos. My hotel – Hotel Europa – was literally a few yards away from the Metro station. This hotel was great, the staff members were fabulous, and the hotel had a great outdoor café open from 7am until midnight – it was perfect for people watching.
METRO in MADRID: I have to say that the Puerta Del Sol Metro stop is one of the most confusing stops ever. There are 3 different entrances/exits to the stop, and you can get totally turned around. If you’ve never been on a Metro before, it might be a good idea to get familiar with Sol, especially if you’re going to eventually take it to the airport)
Note: Keep this in mind: if you have an early morning flight, be alert and aware on the street and in the Metro at this time. The only really drunk and disorderly people I ever saw in Madrid were at this time around 6 and 7am, when they’re all coming home from the clubs. I felt totally safe going to the airport via Metro in the wee morning hours, but it’s best to be on alert.
OVERALL/ GOING OUT IN MADRID: Madrid was one of the most vibrant places I’ve ever been. I felt really happy there. I did go to one club by myself, known as the Palace, just off the Plaza Mayor. It was multi-storied with 3 or 4 different rooms with different types of music. Some girls I met at the hotel gave me free passes - I felt weird at first going there alone, but honestly, there are so many people at these clubs that half of the people lose their friends anyway. You end up meeting all kinds of people from all over the world this way. These clubs were mainly folks in their 20’s, but there were also quite a few people in their 30’s, 40’s, and 50’s dancing and having a good time.
People don’t even think about going out to clubs in Madrid until at least midnight – and several of the clubs don’t even open until midnight – some don’t open until 2 or 3am. I’m serious about this. I didn’t believe it until I saw it. I was coming home from a club at 2:30am, while people I met were just heading out. Some college girls I met said they would go to sleep, set their alarms for 2am, get ready, and then go out at 3am.The streets were absolutely packed at this time. The folks in Madrid seem to stay out until the first Metro starts running in the early morning hours.
Note: If you are traveling alone as a woman, and want to drink some sangria or have a couple of beers, I would say it might be best to do so at a café close to your hotel or on a route that is very familiar, in the midst of a lot of people. On a two-week trip alone, some times you just really want to go have a beer - and it gets to be a real pain if you feel like you HAVE to have someone with you to do this. There’s no reason that you should be stuck in your hotel room!
Overall, I always felt safe in Madrid. There are so many people out at night that it’s like being in a shopping mall during the holiday season. But being even a little bit tipsy alone in a foreign country can be iffy at best – especially if you’re really tired. Only a few times at about midnight or so did I feel like I had turned down a wrong street or needed to walk extra fast. I listened to my instinct and never had more than two or three drinks over the entire course of an evening – always with food. That’s why the Hotel Europa was great. I was able to sit in the outside café and people watch, and also be right at my hotel.
LANGUAGE TIP: KNOW YOUR PRONOUNS: I learned Spanish via audio-cassettes for 6 months before my trip. As a solo woman traveler, when you are trying to….oh, I don’t know…ask how difficult it is, say, to get from point A to point B, I would highly advise that you know the crucial difference between, “It is easy” and “I am easy.”
ATTENTION in MADRID: I was really surprised and amused - in Madrid, I got more attention than I have anywhere, any place, any time in my life (by this time I had mastered my pronouns). Although meeting someone was not my purpose at all, I have to say that I encountered some very handsome men in Madrid – mostly business men – usually in suits – walking in the city from 3-5pm (lunch) and after 9pm at dinner.
In Madrid, I frequently experienced what I like to call “the big SG”: the smoldering glance. On several occasions, this gave me a good chuckle, sometimes I just burst out laughing. The big SG involves a man who spots you from a few yards away. As he walks by you, he locks his eyes onto yours. His eyes are invariably deep and dark. He does not smile, he does not speak, but his eyes burn into your very soul. It doesn’t matter how he looks; it’s the degree to which he has perfected this art form. He watches you until he has just passed by, and then it’s over. You are absolutely hypnotized and can barely move…that is, until you trip over the cobble stones and almost get hit by a car, or, perhaps, run into a little old woman on her way to Mass and knock her into to the street in front of a group of stunned onlookers who then shake their fists at you in anger. Not that this happened to me or anything.
I also received “verbal appreciation” – that is harmless comments, whistles, etc. This hasn’t happened since I was in college. This type of thing usually came from construction workers, etc. But let me say this – although on some occasions it was downright annoying, I never once felt harassed, threatened, or unsafe, and no one ever said anything rude or offensive. Most of the men that I met in Madrid were absolute gentlemen and simply minded their own business. I have to admit that I actually felt pretty damn good by the end of my stay in Madrid.
That said, if you’re on the receiving end of a lot of attention, especially at clubs, etc. be aware that while it can feel very flattering, some of these Casanovas may simply be after your wallet. Keep your wits about you. I always kept my purse in a death grip and walked with purpose - as if I actually I knew where I was going. I tried not to invite any attention; while on occasion I would smile, most of the time I didn’t make eye contact – I just kept my eyes straight ahead and kept on walking.
FOOD/ DINNER IN MADRID: Since many places do not serve half raciones of tapas (which was VERY frustrating for a solo woman), eating at the bar (standing up) was the easiest way to get a smaller plate of food. Most of the sit down places I went to served huge plates of tapas, and some would ONLY serve plates to a minimum of two people. There were other things to eat, obviously, but it was a bit frustrating when I wanted tapas while sitting at an outside café (especially around Plaza Mayor). Several times when I just didn’t feel like dealing with it, I just ducked into a Pans and Company or I just went to the supermarket for fruit.
On many occasions when I went out in Madrid, I only saw men out eating alone or at the bar. I rarely saw women alone. Women were almost always with at least one friend. This didn’t deter me in the least – I like to eat! I simply sat up at the bar and practiced my Spanish on the (poor, unwitting) bartender. I felt uncomfortable only at first. Usually I was so hungry that I didn’t care, and then I just got used to it. Most people just minded their own business and let me eat in peace. I went out to dinner every single night of my trip – food was my easily my largest expense. At first I ate at about 7pm, but since hardly anything was open, I gradually began eating at 9pm.
If you’re dying for a salad and you’re just desperate, there’s a place called VIPS right across the street from the Prado. It’s like a Denny’s or Eppie’s. Not the most Spanish place and not the best place in the world, but they have huge bowls of salad (that is, with actual lettuce).
HAIR AGAIN: If needed, you can pick up a straightener or curler or blow dryer at El Corte Ingles. This is a great option if you plan to return to Europe. I read on Fodor’s that this was a better option than using a converter because several people noted that their American products had gotten fried and literally melted when using converters. As it turns out though, the only thing I ended up using was the dryer at the hotel. Most women wore their hair in buns. The women that wore their hair down had a very natural look. I quickly realized that I would have looked ridiculous with more styled hair. Many women seemed to just have opted for pony tails or twists during the day.
MAKEUP AGAIN: I definitely saw more makeup in Madrid than in Barcelona, but not a great deal more. Most of the women seemed to have beautiful, clean looking skin with very little makeup, even when going out. On the days that I wore blush and lipstick I felt conspicuous and uncomfortable, and found myself rubbing it off and opting for the “less is more” approach.
CLOTHES IN MADRID: Most of the young women in their 20s seemed to be wearing skinny jeans or leggings, flat shoes, and large shirts with a type of sash tied around the waist (think Flash Dance with Chuck Taylors). A lot of them had their hair in loose buns or back, out of their faces. Women in their 30’s and above seemed to just have a sense of casual elegance (slacks and nice top) or simple, beautiful attire.
SMOKING: It’s almost everywhere. Good luck trying to avoid it. This was my greatest cause of grief. Luckily, most establishments have signs posted in the window letting you know if a place allows smoking or not. I got really sick my first week in Spain from the smoke. Outside cafés also have quite a bit of smoke.
TOLEDO: Four nights in Madrid was enough. I was glad to be headed to quieter ground. I took the train from Atocha to Toledo. My hotel in Toledo was Santa Isabel. If you stay at the Santa Isabel, don’t even think of taking of the bus or trying to walk. It’s really difficult to find. Just take a taxi. It costs about 6 euros. (Note: There are no safe deposit boxes or hair dryers at the Santa Isabel). If you’re staying elsewhere, you can take the #5 or #6 bus up into town. Rick Steve’s does a good job on his Toledo section. Lonely Planet’s map is not so good. Your best bet is to head immediately to the TI next to the cathedral for one of their awesome maps. BTW, I absolutely loved the little train that goes around the city for 4 euros - if you can, get the very last one and watch the sunset.
The street in Toledo is made of these huge cobblestones – totally uneven. Wear your most comfortable shoes while in Toledo or you will regret it. I felt so sorry for women in cute little shoes and heels limping along and groaning. It was absolutely painful to walk there in anything but tennis shoes.
I stayed in Toledo for 2 nights, but I think a day and half would have been long enough. If I had it to do over again, I would have arrived in Toledo early in the morning (by 9:30) – I would seen everything I wanted to see, then stayed for dinner and spent the night, then I would have left early the next morning for my next destination. The scene in Toledo at night is unforgettable – absolutely stunning, but a bit eerie (Don’t stay there on a Sunday night if you can help it. It was like a ghost town. Monday was a bit more hopping, but the El Greco museum was closed).
*Ok, while Toledo was one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen, and I’m very glad to have gone there, I have to say that it was there that I had what was perhaps the weirdest encounter of my trip. When I went out to dinner both nights, I had the rather surreal experience of old women hissing at me as I passed by. Yes, they hissed - like snakes. Under their breath, while looking away. At first I thought I was imagining it, but it happened on several occasions. I have to say that it’s a bit disconcerting to be hissed at by a human being. I would avoid it if at all possible. After a great deal of research and field work, I discovered that you can avoid this experience by taking the following steps: do not wear makeup, do not wear high heels, do not smile, and do not wear jewelry or any other type of adornment. In general, I would advise that pull your hair back severely from your face, wear black, shuffle slowly when you walk, and maintain a visage of pious misery. Other than that, Toledo was great.
BACK TO MADRID: When I returned to Madrid, I stayed at the Hotel Plaza Mayor. This was my favorite hotel. It was the most expensive place that I stayed at, but it was well worth the money. It was just off the Plaza Mayor, where I ended up spending a lot of time just sitting outside at cafes, just people watching. I had planned to go to the Royal Palace, but the lines were so long on both days that I couldn’t deal with it. After doing touristy stuff for almost two weeks straight, the thought of being inside a crowded place with hundreds of other people was just no longer appealing. Instead, I went to the Royal Botanical Gardens and just sat in the sun smelling the flowers. It was probably one of the best moments of my trip (Note: on several street corners, you’ll see these “tourist walking routes” posted with several different itineraries. These walks are just great – especially the ones through the various gardens up by the Royal Palace, where there are fabulous views). I really learned that the Spanish have a totally different pace of life. It felt ridiculous to rush around and be totally overscheduled. On this trip, I learned the fine art of just hanging out, watching the world, and enjoying the day. The absolute best days I had were days when I put my guidebook aside, ignored my itinerary, and just chilled.
DEPARTURE FROM MADRID:
TERMINAL 4 AIRPORT STOP MADRID METRO: The biggest news is that the Terminal 4 Airport stop for the Madrid Metro is finally complete. This is huge. It made my trip home from Madrid a whole lot easier (and cheaper).
Note: As I said above, I used the 2007 Rick Steve’s Spain guide and the 2007 Lonely Planet Spain guide on this trip. A few of the stops on the Metro have been updated and changed since these books were published. I recommend that you go to the Madrid Metro web site or get a Metro map in Madrid from one of the Metro Stations to make sure you have the most recent version. Going to the airport involves 2 changes. It’s easy, but I recommend mapping it out the night before so you are prepared and so that you know when and where to change trains - especially if you’re like me and you haven’t had your coffee yet before getting on the Metro (not the wisest decision).
SUPPLEMENTAL FEE FOR MADRID METRO: When you take the Metro from Puerta Del Sol to the Airport, and vice versa, know that you will have to pay a “supplemental” airport fee: e.g. The Metro ride itself cost 1 euro, but when you arrive at the airport - right before you get inside - you have to pay another 1 euro supplemental fee. I was really glad I had one Euro coin left in my pocket. A few people griped, but the total 2 Euro cost was one whole helluva lot cheaper than the 30 Euro cab ride I had originally planned to take (and anyway I used the 30 euros the night before on sangria). The Metro was a much better choice. Note: If you have a lot of luggage, see below.
LUGGAGE ON THE MADRID METRO: This was my first trip ever with actual luggage with wheels, and it marked a turning point in my identity. For years I carried a large backpack on my travels throughout Europe. In September of last year, however, I was in the train station in Rome. In a somewhat freakish mishap involving a collision with an oversized ticket agent, I fell over and landed on my back, and was stuck there, flailing about - not unlike a large turtle. I floundered for several minutes, but realized that no one would help. It occurred to me that I actually might die that way. I was forced to eat all the airline biscuits that I had hoarded earlier (stowed handily in the side pocket of my pack) until the pack became light enough for me to turn over and actually lift again. It was a traumatizing experience, but was also the portal into my version of adulthood.
This year, I said “no more!” and I purchased a 22-inch Travel Pro suitcase with wheels. Oh, the freedom, the sheer joy of not having 20 pounds on my back! Along with that, I brought a small daypack. I am grateful that I brought only this small amount of luggage - especially knowing what I know now about Spain (cobblestones, windy uphill streets and chaotic Metro stations). Anymore than that to deal with and carry alone, and I probably would chucked my stuff mid-way through the trip and just gone naked.
For those of you with luggage (w/wout wheels): if you’re taking the Metro in Madrid, know that you will have to lift your luggage up and down SEVERAL small flights of stairs. There are (supposedly) elevators somewhere: good luck finding them. The downside of my new luggage was that while in the Madrid airport, a family that was running to catch a flight crashed right into me and toppled on to my suitcase, breaking the handle of my suitcase right off (is it just me, or is there a recurring theme here?). A suitcase with wheels is just about useless without the nice little handle. I had to lift it and carry it through out the airport. I’m glad this occurred at end of my trip and not the beginning. Bonus: the upside all the lifting of luggage is that I now have rock-hard biceps the size of a small child.
Overall, Spain ranks up there as one of my favorite places. I have traveled all over Europe – all solo. Traveling as a solo woman poses some interesting challenges – but there is NO reason that you should feel like you can’t go out to dinner, see the sites, or even go have a beer if you feel like it. If I had waited around for someone to accompany me on these trips, I’d still be waiting. Instead, I went alone and met people from all over the world. I’m glad I did. Go - go solo - and have a blast!
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Trip Report: 2 Weeks In Spain – Solo Woman Traveler
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- 21 horse-drawn carriages- Rome and/or Paris?
- 22 Dynamic currency conversion: what happens with refunds?
- 23 Italy - tarveling with a 4 year old - how to keep interested/occupied?
- 24 Going to Europe need help!!
- 25 Have you been to Tuscany in the fall? Please help!
Interesting report, but I'm surprised you didn't mention checking Maribel's Guides to see what she recommends.
Thanks so much for your report. It was certainly very helpful to me as I am headed to Spain for a two week solo trip next month. I'm even staying at the same hotel you did in Toledo. So I will definitly take a taxi to the hotel from the train station in Toledo. And I'll try to wear black and pull my hair back. That was wierd, what you discribed about those women. I'm kind of surprised given how many tourists Toledo is suppossed to have, you'd think they'd be used to them. Other than hard to find, how did you like the Santa Isabela?
So I have a few questions. You mentioned Pans and Co, which I know about since I was in Andalucia in March. Did you find they were all over, and if not could you give me the locations of some you saw. Did you find supermarkets easy to find (you mentioned getting fruit, etc). In Andalucia I was surprised at how few supermarkets I saw. They must have been somewhere, but we didn't see many. I do alot of picnic type eating, especially when I travel solo.
Any highlights of things you did or saw in either Madrid or Toledo that you especially recommend?
I'm sure I'll think of more questions for you. Thanks for your report.
What a great report, Magellan! Well written and organized, informative, and with nice personal touches.
I absolutely LOVED your recount of the "smoldering glance." I was dying with envy as I read it, having been the grateful recipient of the SG myself more years ago than I care to remember.
I believe you are now ready to begin penning that romance novel you've always dreamed about writing!
Hi Isabel - I'm happy to answer your questions!
RE: HOTEL SANTA ISABEL - It was very clean and wonderfully well-located (close to Cathedral and TI). One thing that surprised me was that they keep the lights off in the hallways - it's pitch black when going to your room. Just hit the light switch and you'll be fine. The breakfast was good enough - they let you pay by item (for example, I had two cups of coffee and a piece of toast rather than the entire continental breakfast, so they only charged me for those three items). The staff was a bit reserved, but friendly enough and helpful with regard to suggesting restaurants. Also - I arrived in the morning and they let me keep my luggage at reception until my room was ready. The place was relatively quiet - I asked for the a 3rd floor room with a view. I'm glad I did, because the street was loud in the morning. I would definitely stay there again.
RE: PANS & CO: No they were definitely not all over the place as I had thought they'd be, but I did find 3 of them. In Madrid: there was one directly off the Puerta Del Sol on either San Jeronimo or Alcala that I went to several times for coffee and and "The Rembrandt". There was also another one off the Plaza Mayor, but I kept getting lost trying to find it. In Barcelona, there was one right next to the Cathedral.
RE: SUPERMARKETS: The only supermarket that I used (I went there every day it seemed) was the one in the basement of El Corte Ingles. Other than that, I used the little stores on side streets between to Plaza Santa and Plaza Angel, where I bought water, bananas and cherries. Note: the further you get away from Sol, the cheaper the fruit and bottles of water are. Look around the street called Espoz Y Mina (where you'll also find an Internet cafe). When I got lost one day, I noticed that there was also another cheaper supermarket far south of Plaza Santa Ana, but I really didn't feel as safe in this area, so I avoided it.
FOOD IN TOLEDO: close to the University, there are little shops that sell "picnic" specials of sandwiches, fruits, and water for only 3 euros or so. These were hard to find, but I'm glad I did because the food in Toledo was probably the most expensive of my trip. However, I did also have the absolute best dinners of my entire trip in Toledo. Ask the clerk at the desk of Santa Isabel to show you how to get to the restaurant called La Abadia (opens at 8pm). I absolutely loved that place - went there twice. It had the best food of my trip.
THINGS TO DO IN TOLEDO - Honestly, I had the nicest time when I just wandered around all the streets and just outside the city walls. Since I got lost so much there, it was fun just to wander. One of the coolest things I did was climb to the top of Iglesia de Los Jesuitas (Iglesia de San Ildefonso): absolute fantastic view of the city from the top. If you go the cathedral, I would try to get there right before 10am, when it opens. I had the sacristy (with all the El Grecos) all to myself for a good half hour before the tour groups arrived.
THINGS TO DO IN MADRID: I went to all 3 major art museums - but I have to say that my favorite was just sitting in the Plaza Mayor every evening and relaxing in the royal gardens (by the Prado) and the sabbatical gardens (by the Royal Palace). Wandering around the little medieval streets east of Plaza Santa Ana was also wonderful. I also went to the Franciscan basilica (not far from the Royal palace) where I got a tour (at 4pm) in Spanish. That was a nice, unexpected surprise.
I hope you have a GREAT time!
Mary_Fran - You are too, too kind! Thanks for your response. How did you ever guess that I want to write romance novels?
Isabel - I MEANT to say that the little stores were located between Plaza Santa Ana (Plaza S. Ana) and Plaza Angel. Take care - M
Thank you so much for your posting - I love travelling solo, but have avoided Spain because of the horror stories about Barcelona (ie, pickpockets, high crime rate, etc. ).
I have travelled to England, France and Italy solo and with the Rick Steves tours. I find that I can get some alone time as well as information about the cities/countires in which I'm travelling. I do find that eating dinner alone at night the most difficult, but I do like the idea of taking a guide book with me, both for the passing of the time, and as an "introduction" to other travelers out there.
I'm in my early 50's and I would love to see Spain, Portugal and Morocco. You have given me some great info about going it alone. Thanks
I also LOVED the hissing old women part. What a great experience! Tragically, I have never been hissed at by any person of any age in any country. However, thanks to your excellent description of the "looks that get you hisses," maybe I can doll myself up and go trolling for them on my next trip.
Loved the report! Oh, yes I remember very well the SG...... but that was years ago for me! LOL!!!
Fabulous, well written report! Lots of great practical tips. Loved your sense of humor about things too. Good on you for going solo-you're a braver woman than I am. Thanks for taking the time to put it together and share.
Great report! I loved the smouldering glances of those handsome men in Madrid. Alas! The years when I might have been the recipient of the SG are long past.
MAgellan5- Thanks for the great details in your report. I just love your "the big SG". I didn't get it in Madrid, but in Italy - and you described it to the T! You do make me want to go back and see more of Madrid, tho. I admire your tenacity in exploring, & meals alone. I know that dinners alone are the trickiest for me. Bravo!
Thanks so much to everyone for the positive feedback! There’s a couple more things that I remembered:
TO TELL OR NOT TO TELL: The issue always comes up in my solo travels about whether or not to tell people that I am indeed traveling alone. On this trip to Spain, I was asked no less than 10 times if I was traveling alone. This almost always occurred at dinner, when couples next to me had seen my guidebook, or I had struck up a conversation with the bartender or waiter.
In many cases, I found that most people (other tourists) were simply curious (in one case, I could clearly see that one particularly exhausted mom appeared to be downright envious!). Never once did I feel like anyone was “sorry” for me, or that they thought perhaps something might be “wrong” with me (you all know what I mean here, ladies!). Most often, they wanted to know what it was like traveling around solo. In these cases, I felt safe enough and simply told the truth, “Yes, I’m traveling alone, and it’s wonderful. I get to see everything I want, when I want.” I usually feel happy and free in my travels, and I conveyed that sentiment heartily.
However, there were also a few instances when I was at a cerveceria or café and someone (usually a man, also sitting at the bar, or the waiter) would ask if I was traveling alone, and my instinct told me to tell a little fib - solely for the sake of safety. I was never afraid, but after all, you never know who is sitting close by, listening in on your conversation. Instinct was given to us for a good reason, so I listen well whenever it speaks up. In these cases, I said things like, “Oh, no, my friends are back at the hotel asleep – it was a long flight!” or, “Oh, my friend is here in Madrid at University.”
I also actually had several people ask me what hotel I was staying in – most were simply making conversation, or wanted to be helpful. In a few cases, if I felt at all wary, I would say that I was staying with my friend (rather than divulge the name of the hotel). Again in most cases, most people were just curious or trying to be helpful. But it’s best to be armed with responses for those few situations when you feel like it’s best to be self-protective.
DINING ALONE - AGAIN: As I said, there were two or three moments during my trip – usually at dinner – when I felt lonely or awkward when dining alone. I was very surprised at myself when, on occasion, the waiter would ask me “Only one for dinner?” and I would feel somehow…small. I realize now that he was actually being complimentary, but at the time, for some reason I felt apologetic, thinking, “Yes, only one - AGAIN - so sorry to be taking up space!” And then I’d eat hurriedly and leave, wishing to be invisible the entire time.
This all changed for me one evening in Toledo. I was La Abadia restaurant, where they sat me at a small table in the corner. Across the room, I noticed a woman, also dining alone, aged 50’s to early 60’s or so. I was instantly struck by her stance: I mean it when I say that she looked positively regal. It wasn’t the way she was dressed or anything like that – it was the essence that she projected. The way she looked around the room - and simply OWNED it - was a revelation to me. There was no hurried or apologetic demeanor here. Instead, she was clearly there to stay for several hours – she took her time, relished her food, and had the waitress bring an entire chilled bottle of white wine and dessert, which she obviously enjoyed. She read her novel, looked at her guidebook, and wrote in her journal. It was very apparent to me that she knew to her very core that she had every right to be there. She looked like a queen surveying her kingdom, fully confident in herself. Because of her energy, I too changed my stance. I savored every bit of food, took my time, and took notes in the back of my guidebook – writing about my experience there. I won’t ever forget that woman, and I hope other women reading this posting will keep her in mind as well. When you dine alone, walk into the dining room, survey the room, smile, and think to yourself, “How NICE that you could all join ME for dinner!”
What a well written, organized and informative report!
Magellan, Thank you for another wonderful addition to your story.
I was reminded, as I read it, of a claim we've all heard, that travel is "broadening." Your last paragraph especially, with your observations about the "regal" woman dining alone, is a perfect illustration of the meaning of that claim.
Not that travel is necessarily broadening, but it can be, for those who have their eyes and hearts open, who aren't merely checking off "must-sees" on their travel agenda, but who take the opportunity to step back and learn about themselves by being placed in an "alien" environment. Travel can teach us things we didn't even know we needed to learn!
Thanks for reminding us what it means to travel well.
Magellan, thanks for the great report. I really enjoyed your account of the hissing women and wonder what on earth that was about.
About the one carry-on rule: I believe that only applies right now to flights leaving the UK. This is why you encountered it at Heathrow but not in Madrid.
And Isabel, I think you have to stay at the Santa Isabela, how could you not?
Hi Magellan_5:
Great report! Fun to read & helpful info. You have a knack my dear.
As far as the SG, everyone should experience that (male & female) at least once in their lifetime Just be aware, it is a practiced technique and not the real bolt of lighting (as in the God Father.)
Sadly the SG does not translate well in the USA. Years ago I saw it in action in a club and it looks ridiculous rather than smoldering here. Too bad, it's soo flatering.
Where will you travel next?
Magellan, Your report is amazingly organized! Good work.
Regarding SG, have you wondered why it is far more common in Europe than in States?
Wonderful report. So organized and much more than that--delightful, amusing and true. Thank you.
Hi again - Thanks so much for these kind responses (P.S. So sorry about the paragraphs being smashed together in my last response. I can't figure out how to separate them now that they've been posted).
Amsdon - RE: my next destination: Prague and Vienna seem to be calling loudly, so I will probably head there in September - I hope.
Comfy Shoes -I really don't know why the SG is more prevalent in Europe. All I know is that I want to go back to Madrid!
Like ninasdream said, I too experienced something similar in Italy - Florence stands out most vividly. But there the big SG also included an added bonus: the throaty whisper of "Bellisima!" as the SG-er passed by (which caused me to giggle uncontrollably and spit my cappuccino all over my blouse. No more SG's after that!)
Nikki - thanks so much for clearing up the carry-on mystery - Appreciate it
Re the carry on, Yes Nikki is correct. We flew Lufthansa through Frankfurt instead of Heathrow this time and there were all sorts of carry ons, personal bags and totes in addition to purses and camera bags. But the food is better on BA.
Hm, Magellan_5, as a frequent solo traveler I may just have to change my destination and head for Spain to experience the "SG". LOL. Great report and lots of helpful info.
Brava to you, Magellan5!
I love to hear about stories like this. I have travelled solo (sola?) extensively and it really has its perks. You do what you want when you want, eat what you want when you want, etc. etc.
Yes it can be a little lonely at times, but the benefits are great too.
Cheers,
Ellen
I would highly advise that you know the crucial difference between, “It is easy” and “I am easy.”
Well, this gave me my first big laugh of the day! Very good advice, by the way.
Thanks for a great trip report, Magellan!
Loved, LOVED, loved your report.
ahhh, the "smoldering glance". It IS an artform. In both of its aspects - the smolderer and the smolderee...
It takes years to perfect and true mastery of the artform only begins to be evident after 30. Professional smolderers (the ones that can actually make you trip over the sidewalk) are usually well into their 50's.
LOL at the hissing women.
So, so true about the makeup. I do not wear much makeup regularly while on vacation (my first two times in Madrid) so I did not notice it until the first time I was there for business. Removed most of it by lunchtime.
I never had much of an issue with dining alone but I was also transformed when I witnessed a Dining Queen. I was solo in Paris. She was a drop-dead gorgeous woman in her higher 70's. Had some serious jewelry (never hurts). She savored and enjoyed every single bite of her meal. I wish I had taken a picture of her... I want to be like that when I grow up
Love your report! Interesting and fun, too!
I was last in Spain exactly two years ago; I was visiting my long-distance sweetie in Madrid, but I stayed mostly at a little hotel not far from the Prado/Atocha area. I had been to Spain quite a few times in the past but not for many years...
I had so much fun in Madrid! I did hang out with my friend most evenings, and we went places on the weekends, but I spent much of the time alone, including day trips to Toledo, etc.
I sat in the outdoor cafe at your hotel the first day, and also found it a great place to people watch. Even though I am quite a bit older than you, I thouroughly enjoyed the attention that my blonde hair brought me; the older I get, the less annoying this is, believe me!
I found getting around Madrid by bus and foot no problem, once I was oriented. I took refuge in the Retiro park and even though I am not a big shopper, had a lot of fun buying cute tops, fun jewelry and gifts for friends in Madrid and in Toledo.
I hope someone can shed more light on the hissing women!
I also sat next to a wonderful and very elegant older Spanish woman enjoying lunch at the cafe across from the Palacio Real; she inspired me to remember to enjoy my solo meals and savor my independence.
Evenings are always a little harder for me alone, and I really love nightlife and so was glad for my friend with me...but I certainly felt very comfortable in all the places we went in Madrid - including, I think, that multistoried club you mention. I lost him the minute we got there and had fun anyway!
Magellan, Since we all have one life to live and it does appear within reason, I wish you my best in getting SG so long as you don't spit! your capuccino all over your clothes
That would be a pretty expensive glance, otherwise 
Wow - it's so great to see that others have encountered similar things - I really love these postings. Thanks to everyone who wrote back!
Hi, Magellan,
I am really enloying your report, having done solo trips myself. I also could have been that busy mom giving you the envious look, but actually, like you, have rather aspired to be more like the "regal" woman. I found you can really overload on people, sometimes due to your line of work or a big family, and so I have appreciated every opporunity at solitude since very young age.
Just a few days ago, in San Gimignano, our two friends and my husband and I sat down at a restaurant with a phenomenal view, and a few minutes later the three of them decided they are not hungry after all and would rather just walk around. I chose to stay at the restaurant and enjoyed my solitude, and the view of the Tuscan countryside, to the fullest (to the appreciative looks of two German women at the next table).
I hope you too can master the art of solitude, "own it", as you say, and enjoy it "regally" for as long as you want.
-e
It's rare that I laugh out loud several times when reading a report, (unless it's written by thingorujus).
This was great and a very useful report. I also find dinner the most challenging part of traveling solo although I don't beat myself up for sometimes eating something wonderful in the apartment before heading out -- it's so relaxing and pleasurable (but not so much in a hotel -- I never eat alone in a hotel room).
I also tend to carry myself in a pretty cautious manner when I travel and it's hard to know whether I've overcompensated and should have been more relaxed and open. I also almost always lie to people asking about my status unless they're American tourist couples, never stop to talk to the men who try to help me with my bag (I wave them off, saying "I'm fine, really, thank you" in various languages).
I'd like to strike a balance between smart and aware with fun and open -- I guess I have a future of trips to try to master that! thanks again for the fun report.
Well from another solo traveller - thank you so much for such a wonderfully humorous and informative report. I could relate to so much of what you said. I was hissed at in Italy, but by men. What's up with that. I actually thought it might be a compliment, lol, but maybe not? I have also experienced the SG - in fact, in Rome, I felt like I had had a love affair over lunch one day with a complete stranger. Felt like I should have had a cigarette when he left. It takes some practice to give the SG right back.
I really loved the picture you painted of the regal lady diner. I try very hard to do just that, but sometimes it can be a challenge. A book and a journal certainly can help, but it's the attitude that really is the ticket.
Rather than going into every tiny detail of what you saw and did, your approach was so helpful and interesting. Loved it. Brava!!!
Thanks again for these great responses. I absolutely love hearing about others who have dined solo or who have experienced appreciation. Yes, Barb – I too wanted a post-SG smoke (LOL!)
*Postscript: Because several of you have mentioned it, I wanted to further research my (now beloved) hissing incident in Toledo. Not to offend, but solely in the name of science do I add this addendum to my post.
According to the ever-popular, “Non-Verbal Communication Across Disciplines,” hissing primarily is used to get someone’s attention:
“…what is referred to as ‘hissing’ without further qualifications could be any of several sounds with very specific meanings, both culturally and cross-culturally. One is the unvoiced laminoalveo fricative[s], used to call someone’s attention (according to the situational context) in several cultures (e.g. [calling] a waiter in rather informal Spanish places), or to specifically call a Spanish woman’s attention on the street, with two short hisses, etc. represented ‘Sss!’, which can be written ‘Sss!’ or ‘SSss!’ and referred to as ‘to hiss’ or ‘a hiss’.”
Well…obviously.
To clarify, the Sss! sound (“Hey, come here, good lookin’!” or “Hey, can you PLEASE get me another drink?”) should not be confused with Ssshhhhh! (“Hey, we’re in a CHURCH for cryin’ out loud – can you please shut the hell up?!”) Both sounds convey very different meanings and confusing the two can get you in trouble (I mean, do you really want to tell the waiter to keep quiet when you’re trying to get your sangria refilled? I think not).
The Sss! that I experienced however, was slightly different. Apparently, hissing from elderly women is a medieval form of conveying disapproval. According to several reputable sources, in imitating the sounds of hissing serpents, these lovely ladies were simply letting me know that they were fully and unhappily cognizant of the fact that I am…..yes it’s true….. a demon.
Given the fact that I WAS awfully close to the cathedral at the time, it really explains a lot. Demons have no business hanging around churches (I mean, REALLY!) I clearly had overstepped my bounds, and won’t do it again. Sincere apologies that I forget to mention my true identity when I first posted this report.
Well I am glad you cleared that up, lol. I guess I can think of my hisses as approval.
In another thread about unhelpful, disdainful service people in Spain - did you experience any of this? I was seriously thinking about Barcelona and Lisbon next year, but that report has scared me off a little.
Wanted to say "Thanks!" to fishee and enroute for their great comments about solo experiences.
Barb - Yes, I saw that thread yesterday. I read several sites before I went to Spain, so I was prepared for this type of thing.
While a few servicepeople did appear to be indifferent, I didn't take it personally. I figured that they were probably tired of dealing with tourists all day long, and were just trying to get their jobs done.
Yes, there were times when everything went wrong, I was tired, and a curt reply caused me to start crying, but overall those moments were few and far between.
I actually encountered quite a number of people who went out of their way to help me - and those are the folks that I'll remember:
*the seemingly indifferent sales woman who ran after me in the pouring rain to offer me a plastic bag so my things wouldn't get wet - and then gave me a big smile.
*the front desk clerks and waiters at Hotel Europa who laughed at my bad jokes, even when they were clearly exhausted.
*the salesgirls who were very reserved at first, but who then laughed like crazy when I pantomimed, "I need hairspray or I will soon die."
While I liked Madrid better than Barcelona, I say yes, by all means go to Barcelona for a visit. The chocolate alone is worth it!
LOL fun report! I like your style. I travel solo a bunch , in fact my very first solo trip was to Madrid and bCN. So true re; hair and make-up. LOL Thanks for the report
Magellan,
Ah - Italy. But that's another story.
Having just returned from Madrid, (solo) I was interested in your well written and tongue in cheek report..but I have to admit I didn't laugh out loud until you identified the old ladies hissing as a medievial form of disdain for demons.
Well done !! lol
Having been in business in the states and having had to travel alone and eat alone for business, it never bothers me eating alone...although I must admit I didn't like the food in Spain...it was almost always unrecognizable and after seeing a humongous dead octopus in a butcher's window...I was rather cautious about what I was eating...especially tapas stuff - cause you really never knew what it was - bull's testicles or what?
I was so relieved to find a buffet around the corner from my hotel..where I stuffed myself (after two weeks of being fairly hungry and tired of pig, pig, pig) with lots of lettuce, tomatoes, and fixings and even their version of pizza.
I've traveled solo to Paris and to Spain and I also was fortunate enough, (I'm also very friendly) to run into other tourists: one a gal from Copenhagen also traveling solo who joined me for the day of siteseeing, lunch and dinner, and another couple of gals from Vienna and we just hit it off, talked, walked and had dinner together.
I travel solo when I can't find anyone else who wants to go also, and I refuse to sit home and let time pass until I'm not able to get up and go anymore !! No, no,no. But truthfully I would rather travel with someone else, it's much more fun I think to have someone, simpatico of course, to comment to as you sitesee I think.
Two more comments: 3 gals staying at my hotel in Madrid took the metro from the airport to the hotel. Not a good idea at all. A favorite pickpocket place is the metro. One gal had $1000 pickpocketed, another 400 pounds, and the third her entire wallet. For about $25 you can book a pick up at the airport and your hotel by a viator bus or in Madrid, aerocity I think.
Ah - the smoldering look. One night I went to a tapas place with two other ladies...and I was "decked out". I'm dark haired, olive skinned, and the other gals weren't. I turned around to find 4 men looking at me and discussing...so I turned away. I have quite a few years on you Magellan - although I do try not to show it, so I'm not sure what they were discussing!And maybe I'd be afraid to find out !
My second comment is in Lisbon do not look directly at a man. I was lunching with a male companion, but I was facing the door, at what seemed to be mostly a businessman's lunch place...very popular, and the fish was delicious - well, a man in his 50's walked in the door and I was people watching...he looked directly back at me and wiggled his eyebrows...and kept looking even when he was seated, although I was with a man - so I have learned not to look directly at men in foreign countries... apparently they take it as an invitation
And yes, a lot of people do ask you if you are traveling alone. Just curious I think - but some express surprise as if it's so unusual, or so brave. Maybe we're all just a rare daring breed.
Magellan you are killing me! The explanations re the hissing are hilarious...to add to your hissing for attention coment (as opposed to your demon hiss ) I have some Filipina friends who are always imitating their parents and their various hisses. As you mentioned they do it to get someone's attention.
But you on the otherhand might consider wering a blck onyx or something suitable for the evil eye.
Magellan, Although I am still trying to figure out what "laminoalveo fricative" means but I have to say you have a great sense of humor
Ok, I think this is the right thread for this question since Magellan has been so candid about her experience in Spain - do people wear flip flops often, or is that terribly unstylish (or low class)? I know it's stupid to worry about all the details, but I don't want to get hissed at by anyone! I'm going to Madrid, Sevilla, Ronda, Nerja and Granada for my honeymoon in September. My flip flops are the most comfortable shoes I have for walking around...so, what do you think? Are the flops safe?
I just got back May 26
Would say leave flip flops in the room except perhaps at beach areas. The Spanish women wear stylish and good leather shoes.
Thank you for posting this! I'm also a solo traveller, and will be in Spain this September.
Shandirls - Well I'm going to Spain in July and I'm bringing my flip flops! I first brought flip flops to Italy several years ago, with the idea that I'd just use them at the beach or in the room. But they were so much more comfortable (for me) than my other sandals that I've brought them with me every summer since then - to Portugal, Switzerland, Scandinavia, etc. Will I be mistaken for a Madrid business woman - of course not, but I'll be cool (relatively) and comfortable. I use Teva flip flops, they are mostly black and very simple. I suppose hot pink or something might look worse. But just as the people who are only comfortable in sneaker type shoes should wear them when walking all over Europe, you can wear flip flops if you want. For dinner at a nice restaurant, something a little dressier would be better.
Thanks, laartista, comfyshoes and amsdon
Mahya - Thanks for all of your great comments. I know exactly what you mean about the huge dead octopus - I had one staring directly at me from my plate one evening - a rather frightening episode.
*RE: your comment about taking the Madrid Metro to the airport. Yes, by all means, be vigilant and alert if you're going this way. I truly felt fine - all my valuables were well-hidden (and, of course, by this time I looked like Popeye with my huge biceps, so I probably scared off any would-be pickpocketers).
Re: SHOES- If you plan on walking for 10 hours a day like I did, I would say bring whatever's comfortable for you. I had two pairs of comfy shoes (in case one pair got wet, which they did when it rained in Madrid) and one pair of nice, going out shoes.
You can buy cute, comfortable shoes in Barcelona at Camper - I saw quite a few women wearing this style when I was there.
*SHOPPING: If you like to shop, see the Girls Guide to Shopping in Barcelona by Alexandra Moore (most of these shops are also in Madrid):
http://www.barcelona-tourist-guide.com/shopping/girls-shopping-guide.html
If you care about this sort of thing, she also has a section on what NOT to wear. I found her info to be pretty much up-to-date.
http://www.barcelona-tourist-guide.com/shopping/barcelona-clothes.html
Have fun!
Those are fun and useful links, Magellan - thanks!
Hi annabelle - Great! I'm glad you find them useful. They helped me out quite a bit, actually. Take care - M
Magellan, thanks so much for your report! I will be solo in Barcelona in Sept. and this was great info. I have traveled solo before and love it, however dining is the trickiest part for me. I try, if I can, to arrange fodorite gtg's, meet up with other travelers or friendly locals to enjoy dinners. Miss Ziegfeld if you see this, any chance you wil be in Barcelona first week of September?
JenV
I was researching Barcelona and came upon this post from June...Hilarious! Magellan, I really enjoyed your solo travel diary. It was informative and also quite humorous. The Smoldering Glance, funny as we age, it is more welcoming
. I am only a few years older than you, but I wouldn't mind a smoldering glance or two.
I love the part about getting your pronouns right and the hissing women. Too much!
Anyway, I am trying to plan a trip for next summer. Austria is where we will be for a little over a week. Then, I would like to go to Spain. Barcelona was my first choice. I admit the crime bothers me. It is tough to have to constantaly be on guard. We will be a couple traveling with our teen daughters and grandmother. (and possibly another older couple-aunt and uncle).
Why did you love Madrid more than Barcelona? Would Madrid be too hot in July? Do you feel crime is worse in Barcelona or the same?
Thanks for any info. I hope you see this thread!
Oh and I admire you and all the other women who posted as solo travelers. I think it is wonderful and brave.
Thanks for your nice comments – I really appreciate them! To answer your questions:
. I tightened my grip on my purse, and without a word, I turned and ran the hell out of there.
WHY DID YOU LOVE MADRID MORE THAN BARCELONA? Well, you can basically chalk this one up to personal preference. I found the people in Madrid to be much friendlier for some reason. I also thought Madrid felt much more "Spanish" than Barcelona - if that makes any sense – and that’s really what I was looking for on my trip to Spain. I also felt like it was easier to meet people in Madrid, and there seemed to be a more exciting and vibrant night life there. Don’t get me wrong: Barcelona had many, many beautiful sites and I’m glad I went - and there’s nothing like being near the Mediterranean Sea! I just felt happier overall in Madrid. And, errrr... the smoldering glances from those lovely men in Madrid helped tip the scales a bit for me too.
WOULD MADRID BE TOO HOT IN JULY? That depends on what you mean by “too hot.” I really prefer hot weather, so it wouldn’t be too hot for me. If you absolutely wilt in 90-100F degree weather, then maybe July isn’t for you. If it were me, I would get up very early while it’s still cool and hit the sites. Then during the hottest part of the day, when everything shuts down, you’d be wise to just rest at that time. Then go out again later when it cools down a bit. Definitely pace yourself and don’t run around non-stop at the hottest parts of the day ( Try to be propped up in some nice air-conditioned museum or – better yet - plant yourself in front of a big welcoming pitcher of sangria and greet that baby with gusto!).
DO YOU FEEL CRIME IS WORSE IN BARCELONA OR THE SAME? I do have to admit that I saw (first-hand) and heard of far more pick-pocketing incidents in Barcelona than I did in Madrid. I don’t know why that was the case. Regardless, in both cities, I had an absolute death grip on my purse, and I only carried essential items with me.
I will tell you about one scam that I experienced Barcelona – not to scare you, but so that you can be on the look out for this sort of thing. It’s important to know it for it what it is, because it plays on people’s sense of kindness and their desire to help.
*I was walking near the Maritime Museum just off the Ramblas at around 11am. There weren’t a lot of people around, maybe a half-dozen or so: a street vendor selling stuff, a nice looking middle-aged woman who appeared to be on her way to work, and a few men lounging on the street benches.
All of a sudden, the nice-looking woman tripped on a curb and fell onto the sidewalk. I mean it when I say that she hit the ground HARD! She sat up and grabbed her arm and began to cry and wail, holding her arm as if it were broken. Several men ran over to help her up – I also ran over to help. I felt so bad for her!
I noticed that her purse was a foot away from her so I picked it up and handed it to her. She kept wailing, but as I got close to her, I realized that she was actually fine – and that there was something not quite right about the way she was crying: it was fake. I felt a very strong “warning!” feeling in my gut – and at that moment, I looked up and saw that she was making some odd eye contact with the three men around her. And they were also looking at each other in the same strange way. At that second, I just KNEW that it was a set up and that they were signaling in some way to each other – my guess is that they were poised try to pickpocket me while I was distracted helping the “injured” woman. One man started to move to my right, almost behind me.
Fortunately for me, I’d had something in the neighborhood of 17 espresso shots that morning and was able to move at the caffeine-fueled speed of light
I really don’t think they were targeting ME in particular; I’m sure they would have targeted ANYONE who showed up to help. There was NOTHING menacing about these folks – they actually appeared at first to be nice, normal people – which is probably how they get away with it, as no one suspects them! I seriously doubt that there would have been any violence. They were probably just trying to get close enough to me so they could get their hands on my wallet. Later, I heard about someone at my hotel witnessing the same scam in the Ramblas area. Nice, eh?
Even after that, however, I wasn’t too worried. I would say, go and enjoy your trip! Don’t walk around in fear or allow your trip to be ruined or canceled because you think that the crime would be too bad. It’s NOT that bad. I was never afraid (just a little miffed at the gall of the attempt). It’s just that it’s best not to be too naïve or too trusting: you need to be on the alert for people who want your stuff.
If I had it to do over again, I STILL would have gone over to help that woman and checked to see that she was ok. After all, she could have truly been hurt. I’m not going to let any thieves erase my sense of decency, dammit. It’s just that next time I’ll wear my Nike’s instead of my high heels so I can practice my kick-boxing maneuvers and then run away even faster.
Go and have a fantastic time! I did!
That last posting is intended for girlonthe go. And no, those thieves didn't get my wallet.
Thanks Magellan 5 for posting back!
I am still trying to figure out our trip ideas. Weighing between Austria-Spain or Austria-London. (Flight costs may influence our decision.
My one daughter will have finished Spanish 3 at the high school level. That is one reason for the spain trip. Besides the fact that I have always wanted to go there.
Decisions, decisions! I am happy to be able to make these types of decisions!
Thanks again for all of your info. I will be bookmarking your trip report. It really did make me laugh out loud at some of the situations you were in!! Have a good day!
Super report, well written and well organized -- lots of practical information. And I admire your spirit and attitude. You're a trouper and would make a good travel writer.
I've traveled solo many times and find dining alone a challenge but do it. I often bring a book or write in my journal; I think I was mistaken for a travel writer once at a restaurant in Ireland and got super treatment. Also was invited to join others for dinner.
I was last in Spain (Madrid) more than 30 years ago and have begun thinking about Spain for a 2008 trip (after reading Laarista's report & now yours).
I received the SG from the bartender in our Madrid hotel. Actually, it was several lingering glances -- whew! His name was Paco and he said he would like to show me Madrid the next day. Sadly, I was leaving for Paris in the morning, but Paco has fed my fantasies for many years.
<<pull your hair back severely from your face, wear black, shuffle slowly when you walk, and maintain a visage of pious misery.>>
Love "pious misery.>> Keep on writing!
Hi Luisah - Thanks for the kudos! Well, if you do go on that trip, I hope that the stars align and that you and Paco somehow reunite in 2008 - and that you'll post a trip report when you get back telling us all about it!
Loved your report. I'll confess that Spain isn't high on my "hit list" don't have a reason for that.
But a comment earlier struck me: "hissing women and wonder what on earth that was about."
Envy? Jealousy? There they are in a culture that maybe doesn't encourage solo females without their duenna's chaperoning them in their day. And there you are...my little sister exploring the world. A heroine for many women too timid to give it a go.
I admire you.(And probably so did they, except they were in a pack right? Pack rules perhaps?"
Hi Magellan - I'm just starting to post my trip report for Spain (it's at:www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=35055217) Anyway, I loved the Santa Isabel in Toledo. What room did you stay in. I've tried re-reading your whole post but can't find it. I know someone from this forum(and it's driving me crazy that I can't remember who) stayed in the same room I did - Room 107 with the statue of Saint Isabel just outside the window. Was that you?
Hi Isabel - I'm posting this response here and on your thread. Saw your question about Room 107 at Santa Isabel in Toledo. No, I didn't stay in that room. I stayed up on the third floor in the room with the lovely medieval "prison bars" on the window. All I would have needed was a big old chastity belt with a nice rusty lock on it to complete the picture (oh, my!). Anyway, very nice trip report - your pictures are just lovely!
Note to SuzieCll - I really appreciate your comments! BTW: Yes, actually most of the time those hissing gals were in packs of two or four....but I just thought they were trying to create a rockin' wall of sound - you know, "hissing in stereo." Very nice effect.
NB: And yes, I'm painfully aware that I've used the word "lovely" at least five times in the past 24 hours. I'm even beginning to annoy myself.
Wow! Terrific report, Magellan_5.
Hi Magellan_5
What luck coming across your delightful trip report as I begin plan my 2008 solo trip to Spain. As many others on this forum have commented, your writing style is not only informative but also very entertaining.
I am in my early 50’s and discovered the joy of solo travel when I turned 50 and realized that if I was ever to see all the places in the world that I wanted to see, I had better get going. The determining factor for my choice for solo trips is an abundance of world class art and architecture, so Spain is of course a top choice.
You answered a lot of my questions in your post such as, is it better to fly or take a train between Barcelona and Madrid. I was leaning towards the train, because I love train travel and was nice to find out that the trip is only 5 hours. I have a friend who went to Barcelona and Madrid last year and he also liked Madrid much better than Barcelona but was glad he went to both. With his comments and your comments in mind, I think I will fly into Barcelona and fly out of Madrid. I had not yet determined side trips from Madrid but your comments on Toledo will be helpful.
I know that many Fodor’s posters are concerned about the crime in Spain but it is not the crime that concerns me, it is the food, and your comments on Spanish cuisine pretty much confirm my worries. I really dislike ham and fried foods. I am planning on searching out ethic restaurants in both cities to find lighter fare. I just returned from a week in Sweden and ate at some really nice Indian and Greek restaurants. We ate Swedish food on occasion but I don’t enjoy reindeer meat and herring.
Did you have any trouble with your Spanish in Barcelona? Were they able to understand you?
Again, thank you for your trip report.
Thanks! Though I don't have immediate plans to go to Spain, well, maybe I do 2 years from now if I have $$$, I found your report very interesting. It's very well-written. observant, informative and insightful. Are a journalist by any chance? I shall make a copy of this for my future reference. Gracias y Adios!
Hi Roadlesstraveled. You are not alone in your food concerns. Dont get me wrong we love trying and eating different foods, but after a few days in Spain, walking past windows riddled with hanging cured meats and the smell of pickled olives, sardines, wafting out onto the street, was enough to send us to McDonalds and Burger King for every meal. Shameful, I know...
Perhap someone has a recommendation on great ethnic restaurants that can be found in Spain that we americans are used to. I would sure like to know for future visits. Maybe mexican?
Shameful, indeed.
I know what you mean, SUMMAGOLD, I usually enjoy trying new foods when I travel, but a good friend, who loves to take photographs, spent two weeks in Spain earlier this year and took photos of every meal he and his wife ate. After dozens of pictures of ham, sardines, squid and more ham, I was beginning to feel a little queasy. He and his wife even had photos of the “museum of ham” taken in Madrid. I will definitely seek out other types of restaurants.
Maybe the trick is to improve the vocabulary beyond "jamón" and "¿dónde está el MacDonald?....
Josele, You may want to suggest what else people could learn. For example: ¿dónde está el dunkin donuts"!!
Summagold, thanks for the humor so early in the morning.
Hey gal,
Your post is so interesting that it makes me wanna visit Spain almost immediately! Especially the part about the make-up. Unfortunately, I'll be heading to Italy and Austria (eastern europe) for this trip...so anyway, thanks for the information!
Hi to all
I just returned from Spain after a three week odessy with my 16 year old son and husband in tow. I absoulutly loved Spain but I have to admit that some of the best times were the times I was able to "ditch" the guys and spend solo time. I am in my early 50's and had traveled solo extensively way into my 30's and even post baby. That seems to have dropped away over the years but I have to report after this trip I intend to do more. As far as personal safety I have felt more threatened while in some american cities. Someone actually followed me from the Titanic exhibit last summer while in San Francisco. Being aware is always the key!
For the folks that wrote about getting put off by constant Spanish cusine, Spending three weeks eating only resturant food of any type was wearing. My answer was to go out buy a fresh baugette, fresh fruit, cheese, olives,cake and have a picnic either in my room or in a park. Initially I went to the supermarket at Corte Ingles, but as I became more confident I went to local markets, and bakeries. Each time I ecountered all types of people and being a fairly friendly person interected with some. After a day or two people actually recognized me and treated me as a regular.
All the hotel rooms had mini bar refrigerators so I used them to my bennifit. Only one place had the nerve to suggest a charge for use of their refigerator. I said something at the front desk and they quickly backed down.
We went Madrid, Toledo, Cordoba, Seville, Genada, Nerja and back to Madrid.
I really don't get the hissing. I walked alone many many places, never had anything but nice interactions. I usually had my hair in a ponytail. But I must admit later in the trip(because of the heat) went for the bun, maybe that was my unknown devil chaser
I loved your report and was interested in your descriptions of dress and makeup. I have travelled quite a lot in Europe and found that American women wear more makeup than almost any other! They all look like "anchor women". American women with money are usually sylishly dressed.
European women, on the other hand, wear the most simple clothes and hairsyles( with very little makeup - perhaps lip gloss and mascara) but look so elegant even in a t-shirt and pants. They go for the "less is more" look.
They never wear fleece pullovers ( you know the ones made out of recycled bottles) white sneakers or carry handbags with garish pictures of Marilyn Monroe/cute dogs/cartoons.
Also the only fat people you see in Europe are tourists!( possibly an exaggeration!)
Wear your best quality clothes possible to Europe, but keep it simple and you will not stand out.
Welcome back, SephIII
I think you got the point on the food issue.
We await your report, dont quit
Thanks Josele
Am working on some sort of report
Will do it piece by piece
Three weeks could cause me to write a book
<<American women with money are usually sylishly dressed.>>
Sorry, but I disagree with this statement. Having "money" does not guarantee good taste. I've seen some of the most garish outfits and ugliest purses worn by wealthy women.
Some of the most stylishly dressed American women are the young working women who know how to spend their limited funds on simple clothes that look good on them.
I've never seen the purses described -- Marilyn Monroe? Cartoon dogs?
Magellan,
I enjoyed reading your detailed account of what sounds like a trip of a lifetime. You are TOO funny !
My husband and I are taking a trip to Spain and the Mediterranean for my 50th BD in Oct. First week is a cruise out of Barcelona (warnings of pick pocketers appreciated) and second on the south coast of Spain at a resort in Marbella.
My question to you is.....is it worth a train trip from Barcelona down to Marbella or would our time be better spent just getting there by plane ? We actually have a flight back to the US from Madrid....so there lies a problem in getting multi-city airfares....
Thanks for your input....
C. Neva from Texas
Hi roadlesstraveled – Glad that you found the report helpful. To answer your question: No, I didn’t have any problems with my Spanish in Barcelona - almost everyone understood me. As you probably know, while everyone can speak Spanish in BCN, Catalan is more commonly spoken there. It was difficult for me to understand the Catalan, so most people just spoke Spanish or English once they saw the blank look on my face. (Note: I learned a few basic phrases in Catalan as well out of respect for the culture, and most people responded well to the fact that I was at least trying to make some effort). Many, many people spoke English in BCN and Madrid– so much so, that I was a bit disappointed because I wanted to speak Spanish as much as possible.
Right now, I’m just trapped in a putty-colored office-building, madly fantasizing (as usual) about running off to some nice little town half-way across the globe where no one knows my name.
Just a note about the food: the real reason I had a problem with the food was because at the beginning of my trip, I insisted on eating out in restaurants almost every night. And I ate until I burst. But that was only because I felt that dining out was obligatory. I soon realized that there were PLENTY of open markets, fruiterias, and places to get great fresh/ healthy stuff for picnics. By the end of my trip, I ate picnic style more and more frequently – and I felt a lot better. As long as you’re willing to venture into less touristy neighborhoods to find these great little stores, you should be fine. When I was especially tired, I found it helpful to just write down exactly what I wanted in Spanish beforehand, and then when I got to the market, I simply handed the list to the clerk and said “Please!” (Most places didn’t allow the customer to touch the produce anyway). Anyhow, hope you have a great trip!
Calico1 – Thanks for your nice response. No, I’m not a journalist….yet! But, who knows!? – maybe someday
Susan 557 – Thanks to you too. Ah yes, the make-up issue. In retrospect, my whole trip to Spain in this regard was really liberating. I think I mentioned in my original report that on most of the women seemed to have beautiful, clean skin with very little makeup, even when going out. On the days that I wore blush and lipstick I felt conspicuous and uncomfortable, and found myself rubbing it off and opting for the “less is more” approach. This was somewhat of a victory for me because I’ve been wearing makeup since I was 12 – (when my grandmother leaned over conspiratorially one day, spilling her martini on my lap, and slurred, “Dear, we need to fix you up.”) Ah…(insert whimsical sigh here)..If only I had bought stock in Estee Lauder…then I could be free of my evil putty-colored cubicle FOREVER!!!
BURNTORANGENEVA: Thank you! So sorry, but I don’t really know much about Marbella, or how long of a train ride it would be. Many people like to fly because it’s quicker than the train. For me, however, the train is much better. I just can’t handle going to yet another airport or getting on a plane again (no matter how short the flight is) after the long, hideous flight from California, so I tend to take the train for all my journeys within a given country. It may not be the most efficient way, but I love relaxing on the train and staring out the window. That’s just me. You might want to post a brand new separate thread and take a poll of folks who have traveled between BCN and Marbella to get their input. Fodors folks are great, because they respond so quickly with helpful suggestions. Best of luck with your trip!
Found this great report while doing research for my upcoming trip. Thanks for posting - especially useful for me as I'll be traveling solo.
bkmking
It took me a half hour to find my own damn trip report so I'm bookmarking this for myself.
Hi Magellan tha's great I loved your report both times!
I will never forget your experiences with the big "SG!"
What a great trip report. I took my first solo trip to Mexico last year, and had the same experiences in restaurants (surprise that I was alone, and some even offered me reading material because they thought it might be strange for me to just sit there). I love the description of the older woman dining alone who appeared to "own" her space. I'll remember that when I take my second solo trip, this time to Italy, in March. I hope I get the SG!!
I saw this was an old post, so went to the last message to see why it had been topped. I was intrigued by the "SG" reference and just had to go back to the start and skim to see what that was (Smoldering Glance).
I am so glad I did. I got hooked on the report, and found it just delightful. Thank you, Magellan-5!
I'm glad this report was brought back up and I enjoyed reading it -- thanks for all the great info. I do solo travel sometimes and have many similar experiences in Italy/France but haven't yet ventured to Spain.
Thanks for the kind words everyone
Long-live the Big SG!
- M
Hi Magellan,
I've just discovered your report and enjoyed it very much. You've a great way with words that takes us along for the journey.
Like you, I started my solo travels very early and have found it's what mostly suits me best. I love to meet up with friends for a day or so here & there ... and continue on my own. Whilst it would sometimes be nice to share an experience/day with someone, I like the flexibility of being totally free to go when & where the whim takes me when I'm travelling.
This time I'm off to Madrid, Venezuela and the US, so your notes were very helpful.
As an aside, I might be the "lady in the corner of the dining room" (LOL) I always look for interesting places too, making the same choices as if I were with the handsomest of the Smouldering Glancers
I've met some very interesting people by seeking out the restaurants the locals regard well. In Rome one time, I stumbled upon a charming place frequented by the owners of the antique shops nearby and had the most amazing meal. My companions at the next table had been lunching there since they opened their shops.
Tip: It helps to look as if you belong wherever you want to go. The owner of this ristorante turned away several people with caps & cameras.
Someone commented that she's often taken for a restaurant critic by her note taking - this has happened to me and it's not such a bad thing either. I like to take notes of the food - helps me remember the places ... and it's fun to work out the ingredients, too.
Loved this trip report! I don't know how I missed it the first time around. Especially when I was in Spain not long before you and I could have swore I read everything on fordor's regarding Spain. Just goes to show you.
I love BARC. The only thing I liked about Madrid was the Flamenco dancing. The food in Spain was not up my alley. I am a big veggie eater and I just couldn't find anything that was really good.
And I totally can relate with the SG. But I would stare right back. But that's me.
Great Report.
Well I am not sure what you all think but I would be flattered if someone were to give me the SG.
It has been some years since I have incited any smoldering glances, eapecially from strangers.
I agrre Magellan fro now on I toast
the SH as well ..que viva!
Finding this now thanks for your report have been trying to decide on
a trip for May and Spain has always
been on my mind so was Australia tho
now I have given up on that (I think)I travel some with a friend who does a lot of solo travel and at first I wasn't too keen on that However doing more and more on my own and getting more used to it. You can do what you want and when you want etc.
So far my solo has been London and Ireland tho I guess Ireland doesn't
count as I stay with a cousin but
mainly go about on my own daytime solo?
Sad to say I am so far past SG but
hey I can dream can't I? Don't suppose he looked like Antonio Banderas he could SG me any time
Hey I said I can dream
Hi, I will be arriving with a co-worker in Madrid on Sept 11th. My co-worker decided to leave for Granada on Sunday the 13th and be back on Sept 16th close to midnight to catch our train to Barcelona on Sept 17th. I have never traveled by myself before and this thread has given me the confidence to venture out during my stay in Madrid. I am staying at roommate mario and was wondering if there are any restaurants anyone can recommend for dining alone. I was also thinking of taking a daytrip to Toledo or Segovia or Avila. Is it doable taking the train then cabbing to these place or do you have any recommended tours I can sign up with while in Madrid. Thank you.
You might get a lot more responses to your questions if you posted a new thread, rather than tacking them onto a long older thread. We are always willing to help, but many more people will see a new thread.
This is one of my all time favorite reports.
To: Archer I agree w/ Nuke you will be better off starting a new thread for your questions.
Thank you nukesafe and amsdon. I will do so.
Will look for you then!