Trip Report - Two Weeks in Italy
Nov 24th, 2004, 07:04 PM
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Trip Report - Two Weeks in Italy
Just a quick summary of our trip. Photos are at www.rozault.com/italy2004
Spent three nights at our favorite B&B north of Rome: L'Ombricolo (www.lombricolo.com) . From there, did day trips to Orvieto (Signorelli frescoes in the Duomo were an artisitic highlight) and Assisi. One of the best meals of the trip was lunch near Assisi at a place called Ai Cavalieri (www.aicavalieri.it).
Then five nights in Sorrento, with day trips to Capri, Naples, Paestum, and Pompeii. The Casa Astarita B&B on the main drag in Sorrento was a great place and a terrific bargain at 75 euro a night (off-season rate). They even had free net access, both on a public computer and in the individual rooms, if you had your own laptop as we did. Best place we ate there was La Fenice, Via degli Aranci, 11. Great seafood at very reasonable prices.
On to Rome, where we were very happy with the Hotel Aberdeen -- also quite a deal at 88 euro. A bit out from the center between Piazza Repubblica and Piazza Barberini, but still easy to get around, since Rome is so walkable. And it was very convenient to the Metro and buses. Also had a free Internet computer, and a wonderfully helpful staff. We would definitely stay there again.
Our favorite eating place in Rome was L'Orso 80 (at via dell'Orso 33) -- the amazing antipasto of 12 different dishes for 11 euro was more than a meal in itself. We also enjoyed lunch at Melarancio, near Pizza del Popolo (Via
del Vantaggio, 43). Very nicely prepared food (try the eggplant antipasto and fish with potato crust) at reasonable prices.
Another very good meal, although a bit pricier, was at Da Tullio (Tuscan-style menu) near Piazza Barberini at 26 Via San Nicola da Tolentino. .
We compared the gelato at San Crispino and Giolitti -- both were great, but we gave the nod to Giolitti's for its wider selection, especially the intensity of the fruit flavors. Mirtillo (blueberry) was my favorite.
Spent three nights at our favorite B&B north of Rome: L'Ombricolo (www.lombricolo.com) . From there, did day trips to Orvieto (Signorelli frescoes in the Duomo were an artisitic highlight) and Assisi. One of the best meals of the trip was lunch near Assisi at a place called Ai Cavalieri (www.aicavalieri.it).
Then five nights in Sorrento, with day trips to Capri, Naples, Paestum, and Pompeii. The Casa Astarita B&B on the main drag in Sorrento was a great place and a terrific bargain at 75 euro a night (off-season rate). They even had free net access, both on a public computer and in the individual rooms, if you had your own laptop as we did. Best place we ate there was La Fenice, Via degli Aranci, 11. Great seafood at very reasonable prices.
On to Rome, where we were very happy with the Hotel Aberdeen -- also quite a deal at 88 euro. A bit out from the center between Piazza Repubblica and Piazza Barberini, but still easy to get around, since Rome is so walkable. And it was very convenient to the Metro and buses. Also had a free Internet computer, and a wonderfully helpful staff. We would definitely stay there again.
Our favorite eating place in Rome was L'Orso 80 (at via dell'Orso 33) -- the amazing antipasto of 12 different dishes for 11 euro was more than a meal in itself. We also enjoyed lunch at Melarancio, near Pizza del Popolo (Via
del Vantaggio, 43). Very nicely prepared food (try the eggplant antipasto and fish with potato crust) at reasonable prices.
Another very good meal, although a bit pricier, was at Da Tullio (Tuscan-style menu) near Piazza Barberini at 26 Via San Nicola da Tolentino. .
We compared the gelato at San Crispino and Giolitti -- both were great, but we gave the nod to Giolitti's for its wider selection, especially the intensity of the fruit flavors. Mirtillo (blueberry) was my favorite.
Nov 24th, 2004, 07:11 PM
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I should probably add, in case anyone looks at the trip photos, and wonders why I spent so much time on Louisa May Alcott -- it's because I work part time at Orchard House Museum in Concord MA, which was the home of the Alcotts. If your travels ever bring you to the Boston area, come and visit. Everyone says we give the best tours in Concord!
Nov 24th, 2004, 09:15 PM
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nonnafelice
Thanks for sharing your photos they brought a smile to my heart as I have a special fondness for Rome.
I have walked past Louisa May Alcott's house many times and never even knew it! I will think of you when I'm back in Rome and make a point to stand at Via Sistina and Piazza Barberini.
Also will need to try L'Orso 80 as another poster has mentioned it to me also.
Welcome home - it sure looks & sounds like you had a wonderful trip.
Eileen
Thanks for sharing your photos they brought a smile to my heart as I have a special fondness for Rome.
I have walked past Louisa May Alcott's house many times and never even knew it! I will think of you when I'm back in Rome and make a point to stand at Via Sistina and Piazza Barberini.
Also will need to try L'Orso 80 as another poster has mentioned it to me also.
Welcome home - it sure looks & sounds like you had a wonderful trip.
Eileen
Nov 25th, 2004, 11:19 AM
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To sazzleevans:
Re: Scavi tour, no we actually didn't get to the Vatican at all this trip. We had been there (though not on the scavi tour) on our only previous trip, so we decided this time to concerntrate on places we hadn't been before.
For deep-down experiences, though, we thought San Clemente, with its layers of history down to the ancient Roman temple of Mithras, was fascinating.
Also, I think my favorite museum experience was the Doria Pamphilij Gallery, mostly because I loved the audioguide narrated by the present-day Prince (a very fluent English speaker). He talks about his childhood growing up in the palace that now is the museum housing an amazing collection of art. If you go to the Borghese first (our timing didn't work out that way) you can get a discount on the Pamphilij.
As for tips: if you want to be in style, wear black and pink. It seemed that every shop window was featuring that combination. Generally it was a light pink, not the shocking variety.
Re: Scavi tour, no we actually didn't get to the Vatican at all this trip. We had been there (though not on the scavi tour) on our only previous trip, so we decided this time to concerntrate on places we hadn't been before.
For deep-down experiences, though, we thought San Clemente, with its layers of history down to the ancient Roman temple of Mithras, was fascinating.
Also, I think my favorite museum experience was the Doria Pamphilij Gallery, mostly because I loved the audioguide narrated by the present-day Prince (a very fluent English speaker). He talks about his childhood growing up in the palace that now is the museum housing an amazing collection of art. If you go to the Borghese first (our timing didn't work out that way) you can get a discount on the Pamphilij.
As for tips: if you want to be in style, wear black and pink. It seemed that every shop window was featuring that combination. Generally it was a light pink, not the shocking variety.
Nov 25th, 2004, 09:13 PM
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nonnafelice, your photographs are fabulous!! I found them truly breathtaking. And how interesting about Louise May Alcott's apt. Stay right there by Piazza Barberini and had no idea. Well next time I will know.
Hope you had a Happy Thanksgiving.
Hope you had a Happy Thanksgiving.
Nov 26th, 2004, 02:13 AM
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nannafelice-
these are really wonderful images, thanks for posting them!
You really captured that soft light falling on stone everywhere= I also the one of the street in Naples.
And the one of the Piazza della Republicca in Orvieto with the row of figures seated in the bench-beautiful compostiion!
I agree with you about San Clemente in Rome, I happened to go in there on a very rainy afternoon while I was on my way to another location, and it was an intense experience that woke me up to times even before ancient times in Rome. And the mosaics there are some of the most beautiful you can imagine!.
Thanks also for your brief report, and your perspectives on Louisa May ALcott, and the Doria Pamphili Gallery. Wonderful!
these are really wonderful images, thanks for posting them!
You really captured that soft light falling on stone everywhere= I also the one of the street in Naples.
And the one of the Piazza della Republicca in Orvieto with the row of figures seated in the bench-beautiful compostiion!
I agree with you about San Clemente in Rome, I happened to go in there on a very rainy afternoon while I was on my way to another location, and it was an intense experience that woke me up to times even before ancient times in Rome. And the mosaics there are some of the most beautiful you can imagine!.
Thanks also for your brief report, and your perspectives on Louisa May ALcott, and the Doria Pamphili Gallery. Wonderful!
Nov 26th, 2004, 12:48 PM
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SharonG,
How wonderful to know you are a supporter of Orchard House -- it is a special place, and we appreciate your contributions. (For those who aren't familiar with the place, you can see more at www.louisamayalcott.org )
To digress for just a moment, people might want to reflect today on the Thanksgiving letter that the Orchard House director wrote to the Boston Globe. (I have a feeling that most of the Fodor's group don't really need to be reminded about sharing, since there are so many examples here of people sharing with and helping each other.)
----------------
"THERE ARE a thousand ways of helping if one only knows how to do it." This simple sentiment, written by Louisa May Alcott in "Little Women," takes on new meaning as we write about Giving Massachusetts Day, established by gubernatorial proclamation in 2002.
"This year, the day after Thanksgiving will again serve as a day for citizens to celebrate our philanthrophic past and reflect on how each of us can enhance the quality of life of our fellow citizens through giving.
"So while you and your family are enjoying Thanksgiving dinner leftovers, we ask you to talk about the charitable organizations you have supported in the past, consider supporting new and worthy organizations this year with a donation of money, time, or resources, and recognize just how important it is to share what you have with others."
--------------------
Also, a "thank you" from me for everyone who took the time to post nice feedback on my travel photos.
- Roz (nonnafelice)
How wonderful to know you are a supporter of Orchard House -- it is a special place, and we appreciate your contributions. (For those who aren't familiar with the place, you can see more at www.louisamayalcott.org )
To digress for just a moment, people might want to reflect today on the Thanksgiving letter that the Orchard House director wrote to the Boston Globe. (I have a feeling that most of the Fodor's group don't really need to be reminded about sharing, since there are so many examples here of people sharing with and helping each other.)
----------------
"THERE ARE a thousand ways of helping if one only knows how to do it." This simple sentiment, written by Louisa May Alcott in "Little Women," takes on new meaning as we write about Giving Massachusetts Day, established by gubernatorial proclamation in 2002.
"This year, the day after Thanksgiving will again serve as a day for citizens to celebrate our philanthrophic past and reflect on how each of us can enhance the quality of life of our fellow citizens through giving.
"So while you and your family are enjoying Thanksgiving dinner leftovers, we ask you to talk about the charitable organizations you have supported in the past, consider supporting new and worthy organizations this year with a donation of money, time, or resources, and recognize just how important it is to share what you have with others."
--------------------
Also, a "thank you" from me for everyone who took the time to post nice feedback on my travel photos.
- Roz (nonnafelice)
Nov 28th, 2004, 05:16 PM
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Bill,
I read about Ai Cavalieri in one of Rebecca's restaurant reviews on SlowTrav:
http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/restau.../rw_assisi.htm
You can get a pretty good idea of the place by reading her (very enjoyable) review. It is outside of Assisi, and if you want to go there, you should follow the directions on their web site.
My husband and I each had a superb antipasto of pecorino souffle with balsamic sauce (you can see a picture of that if you go to the photo link I posted above -- it's photo 16). My main course was roast pork in Sagrantino wine sauce, with a baked pear marinated and cooked in the same sauce. This was recommended by the chef, and was fantastic. My husband had a beef dish that was prepared in some kind of special olive oil; he said it was also very good.
Our total bill, with coffee (we didn't have dessert) was 87 euro, but almost half of that was because we splurged on a nice bottle of wine. Considering the quality of the food, I thought the prices were quite reasonable. Hope that tells you what you want to know.
I read about Ai Cavalieri in one of Rebecca's restaurant reviews on SlowTrav:
http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/restau.../rw_assisi.htm
You can get a pretty good idea of the place by reading her (very enjoyable) review. It is outside of Assisi, and if you want to go there, you should follow the directions on their web site.
My husband and I each had a superb antipasto of pecorino souffle with balsamic sauce (you can see a picture of that if you go to the photo link I posted above -- it's photo 16). My main course was roast pork in Sagrantino wine sauce, with a baked pear marinated and cooked in the same sauce. This was recommended by the chef, and was fantastic. My husband had a beef dish that was prepared in some kind of special olive oil; he said it was also very good.
Our total bill, with coffee (we didn't have dessert) was 87 euro, but almost half of that was because we splurged on a nice bottle of wine. Considering the quality of the food, I thought the prices were quite reasonable. Hope that tells you what you want to know.
Nov 28th, 2004, 11:01 PM
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ciao nonnafelice:
I like your hotel choices, they all sound right up my alley.
I am glad that you liked L'Orso 80, it is one of my favorite places to eat in Rome, I have been going there since 1998. They always seat us on the "locals" side with all the Italian families so our meals are always an animated adventure!
Never tried the blueberry gelato.....anguria (watermelon) is my favorite, however, the melon and cioccolato are as well! Yummy!
I like your hotel choices, they all sound right up my alley.
I am glad that you liked L'Orso 80, it is one of my favorite places to eat in Rome, I have been going there since 1998. They always seat us on the "locals" side with all the Italian families so our meals are always an animated adventure!
Never tried the blueberry gelato.....anguria (watermelon) is my favorite, however, the melon and cioccolato are as well! Yummy!
Nov 29th, 2004, 09:52 AM
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Sazzleevans
re: scavi tour
Just got back from Rome, did the Scavi Tour 11/20. Wow! Make sure you are at the office at least 15 minutes prior to "scheduled" tour time. My mom and I got there 10 minutes prior and the group was about the leave...
While you cannot take any pictures you can purchase an interesting book (with plenty of pics) on the excavation & restoration for a mere 10 euros upon exiting. BTW-humidity is over 90% due to preservation of frescos, etc. The day was well into the upper 60's and I thought I was going to die!
re: scavi tour
Just got back from Rome, did the Scavi Tour 11/20. Wow! Make sure you are at the office at least 15 minutes prior to "scheduled" tour time. My mom and I got there 10 minutes prior and the group was about the leave...
While you cannot take any pictures you can purchase an interesting book (with plenty of pics) on the excavation & restoration for a mere 10 euros upon exiting. BTW-humidity is over 90% due to preservation of frescos, etc. The day was well into the upper 60's and I thought I was going to die!
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