sheri_lp

It's been a few months since our trip and as I wander the stacks at Barnes & Noble, or scan the Travel Channel I start to think of my next "big trip". The one thing keeping me from plunging forth is knowing that I owe a trip report here, and I wanted to thank those who offered such great advice and kindness in their time and attention.
I made this 2 week trip from October 5 to 19 with my mother and sister (their first time abroad!). With Irish ancestry, we most wanted - in the words of one Irish cabbie, "to commune with the ancients". We also carried a little something extra with us. My grandmother (mother's mom) passed away in early 2007, and she had always loved Ireland although she never traveled outside the US. So, we took a wee bit of her ashes to spread in Ireland. Like the Bourne Identity or something, we called the first part of our journey "The Betty Project"...
I made a solo trip to France and Italy in 2005, so my mom and sis were fine with me plotting out a course. I thought a week there, and a week in Italy to make the most of our time - there was a lot of moving around, but when your group needs to see Ireland, the Vatican and Tuscany - I had a ball bouncing us around for a couple weeks! The plan was to spend most of our time in the southwest of Ireland, then fly to Rome for a couple of days, then to an agriturismo near Monticchiello, ending up in Florence.
We each reside in different states, so my sis and I flew to mom's place in Phoenix to fly to Dublin (via Philadelphia) on US Airways.
We left Phoenix in the morning, left Philadelphia in the evening and arrived in Dublin about 8:30am. After much discussion, I convinced them that we should only take one rolling carry-on and one tote each. We were quickly off the plane, and in line for the ATM - luckily we got the last cash out of the thing before it conked out!
We wanted to get to the west coast as soon as possible, but again taking Fodorite advice - I didn't want to drive on that jetlag day, so from the airport, we took the bus to the train station and took a nice 3-hour train ride to Galway. It was so easy, and time-effective and we could at least relax, or stretch our legs on the train while viewing the beautiful countryside.

sheri_lp

Now, planning this thing took months and I was relentless on Tripadvisor on Fodor's. But at times you have to just make the plunge and go for something you think is familiar. Which I did when choosing our first night in Galway - I didn't need anything extravagant, just serviceable where we could sleep. SO I chose a familiar name with TraveLodge and (thought I was being smart by staying off the main drag). But the thing you don't know - or at least I didn't know - was that it was Rugby Madness-time in Ireland! Our sad little room was right over the front entrance and was amazingly loud with late night revelers and honking cars and hollering people. The city itself was really lovely, and the pub where we had our first Guinness and excellent whole fish fillet and a nice walk around the town to get the feeling that yes, we really were in Ireland - was great. Our cab driver by the name of Joseph Kennedy (no relation!) gave me great driving advice - I told him I was going to watch him drive, and he kindly explained how to read the signs for the roundabouts - verrrry helpful! The next morning, our cabbie told me just to take it 'nice and slow' and you'll be alright.
Now, here is where the plan kind of went sour. We intended to drive to the Cliffs of Moher on request of my sister, but as I was getting used to driving and avoiding imminent death - we had a flat tire in the first two hours! The Burren is nice and lovely but my God what jagged edges on the road! My siser immediately popped out of the car and went knocking on some poor unsuspecting man's house. He was very nice to assist us with the tire change but it took two hours off our time! We were pressed, and falling behind and my "smart" idea to drive from Galway to Dingle straight through without incident was quickly changed. So we had to pass by the Cliffs - I owe my sister another trip for that! And driving in the darkness through the mountains, we arrived in Dingle about 9;30 at night. I called our B&B, and Angela at Cill Bhreac House couldn't have been nicer. She was out to dinner herself and gave us directions to the house, and told us the door was open and how to find our room and she'd see us in the morning. Wow - how cool. We were then able to enjoy our wonderful dinner at the Global Village restaurant on the main street in Dingle - wonderful seafood and delicous wine gave us a terrific evening.

sheri_lp

We stayed at Angela's for two nights, and the room was so comfy - with three proper beds and private bath. The cheerful breakfast room offered wonderful Irish breakfasts (which I ate EVERY day!) and perfect coffee. That first morning we took off for our drive around the Dingle Peninsula. Also - to mention that usually in October, it's said that there's more rain than sunshine - but we had wonderful, sunshiny weather the entire time in Ireland. A little overcast here and there but hardly a drop of rain fell on us. I was so excited to see the countryside and take the tons of photos on the side of the road, and to see the beehives and the so cool Dingle Museum. We met Harry (the owner/musician) who has amassed a terrific collection of ancient pieces and really wonderful ancient goddess pieces from all over Europe not to mention the LARGEST mastadon skull in the world. And the collection keeps growing. He also has a little shop and when I bought my bit of crystal, he started singing "Sherry" to me (the Four Seasons version) So cool.
That night, my sister and I sought out the pubs, and found a couple of places offering some good trad music and had alot of fun. The next day we took off for Schull.

sheri_lp

The choice of Schull was entirely based on a conversation with a friend-of-a-friend who had lived there, and I thougt it was a good middle stopping place between Dingle and Kinsale. We lucked out by finding the Stanley House run by Nancy. What a lovely place- and quiet as it was near the end of season and we were practically her last guests (she was heading off to India for a month with friends soon after our stay!). The price was so reasonable, we took two rooms to spread out a bit, and went into town to have dinner at a little pub called the Black Sheep. Schull is a little rough around the edges, but on a beautiful setting on a bay. In fact, at the end of the road to the B&B, there stands a lovely old relic of a 16th century church, whose yard holds some of the famine burials. It's on a windswept point that looks out to the bay and we thought this would be the perfect place to spread Betty's ashes. We found a lovely tree that overlooked the water, with the church ruins behind us, and thought it would be a good place. So we placed the ashes around the grass, and thought she'd enjoy the view.

sheri_lp

From Schull, we headed to Kinsale. I am trying to remember which day we saw Dromberg Circle - this could have been it! Friends back in California had been 2 years ago and had some fabulous photos so we had to see the mini-Stonehenge. Definitely worth the drive and such a beautiful setting. We were fortunate to have those stones to ourselves for the whole time. I was really listening to the silence and doing some of that "communing with the ancients"!
We loved Kinsale. It's such a beautiful town, and we were fortunate to just happen upon our hotel - the Bank House just as we came in. It was an expensive place, but for one night, it was centrally located and very comfy. We had to finally do some laundry and found a little laundry service around the corner - the nice lady took our stinky things and make them clean again! Meanwhile we went to - where else - the pub. Then as my sister went trudging up the hill the big church in search of a St Patrick's medal - my mom and I did a little shopping but it took hardly any convincing for either of us to head back to the pub to 'wait for my sister'...yeah right. That evening we dined on some wonderful seafood restaurant (oh forgot to mention that I practically forced my mom and sis to have fish every day of our trip) called The Man Friday. Located right on the water, one of the dining room areas looks out over the water, and here we had a great evening, and our ONE photograph of all of us together was taken here. After dinner, mom went back to the hotel and sis and I headed across the street to the Spaniard pub. Our hotel clerk told us there was live music and it turned out to be the best pub night of our trip. The Spaniard is the oldest pub in Kinsale, and I think we were in the oldest section which cold hold about 20 people max. It was a blast! I think we met and talked to every person that night. We sat next to to American brothers traveling together, and some other loud-mouthed Americans jeez, as well as several locals who were there for the Guinness and the great music. Also met a couple of other notable characters (the guy we thought was either some kind of special ops guy or James Bond!) that evening and heard some of the most beautiful violin music in town. You gotta go there!

sheri_lp

Next stop - Cork to Rome!

irishface

Really enjoying this! Please don't stop now. Is there a link to your photos?

sheri_lp

Thanks Irish - I will set up some photos and link them - thanks for the reminder!

treble

I am so enjoying your report--we are also doing Ireland and Italy in JUne...keep it coming!

sheri_lp

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6594643...photo637323955

sheri_lp

So we ended up loving Ireland so much but I have to admit I was getting antsy for Italy. Our plan was to stay just two nights in Rome (Vatican, Pantheon), then take the train to Chiusi to pick up the car rental and spend three nights in Tuscany, then moving on to two nights in Florence before training to Bologna and flying back to Dublin for one night before heading home. We used Aer Lingus from Cork (nice airport but HUGE flight delay) to Rome. The Hotel Adriano was overpriced, with the worst beds and we didn't end up seeing as much of the Piazza Navona area as I thought we would - so next time I'll choose something more budget-minded. But I had arranged the taxi from FCO to the hotel and the poor driver waited for hours for us and only charged an extra €10 for the delay. Not only that but he crunched the door of his gorgeous Mercedes as he tried to navigate the tightest corner in Rome...Felt bad for the guy but he was very kind. The Adriano is located down this extremely small and highly trafficked street. Another American we met referred to it as "Death Alley". She was right. The next morning we had an appointment for the Vatican tour - the independent one where you go in with the group, but then you're on your own. A friend who has been there advised we cruise through the apartments fast as possible to get to the Sistine Chapel. So we were buzzing by the German, Japanese and American tour groups to really spend time gazing at Michelangelo's ceiling. I guess I didn't realize that it's STILL a real chapel, and the security guys were pretty good about keeping down the noise, and cameras. It was great to take time and soak it all in but after a little while you get saturated and need fresh air so we hit the exit and had a little gelato before getting a taxi back across the river and having lunch at the little outside cafe across from the hotel. In the rain. Later after the rainstorm, we wanted to do the Red Bus Tour but couldnt for the life of us, find the get-on place! We managed to get to the Pantheon though and this was one place that was on my must-see list. I loved that building. To walk into this cool, dark architecture with the occulus and such old stone, paintings and plaster really put me in another place. I immediately felt calm and happy - maybe it's the round shape. I took alot of photos in that place! Later, mom stayed in and my sis and I did finally find the Red Bus Tour which we did before our dinner reservation. I recommend the tour -we sat next to a family from Ireland! A travel agent friend is the acknowledged "Italy expert" in his company, and he loaded me down with some great suggestions. The best was to have dinner at his friend Aldo's place down by the Colosseum. He took good care of us and we had a fantastic meal. Followed by a visit to the Trevi Fountain. When I stood there 2 years earlier I didn't think I'd be back so soon. And I didn't even toss in a coin! Maybe it was the part of town we were in, but the city just seemed more busy and crazy than before, but I totally love Rome. I need to spend a whole week there next time. The girls were ready to get out of the city, so the next day we checked out and taxi-ed to the Termini station. Thanks to the cruel ticket man, he told me the wrong track and we missed the first train - my stupid mistake! I had a momentary freak out, but after checking for the next train, and that the car rental place would still be open - we were cool. whew that was close.

sheri_lp

I have to say that I really enjoy using the train. We don't have the opportunity to do it much in this part of the country, so we did have a couple of train rides on this trip. From Rome to Chiusi is about an hour or so. I rented the car from Avis, and we had the nicest help from Silvio. He picked us up at the train station and gave us a detailed map to our agriturismo, Terre di Nano. He said, "Terre di Nano is very nice. Only one problem with Terre di Nano. Wild boars." Was I in a Monty Python sketch now? No - he was just mentioning that in the country boars are wild and love grapes and olives just like I do...ok then. So the kid brings up the car, we hop in and take off and I hear my mother in the backseat say - Why is there a package of spaghetti here? The kid hadn't checked for any leftover things, so we got a bonus! We pulled into the grocery store around the corner for some sauce and provisions and we were set for three days of spaghetti dinners! Now, I have seen the driving directions on the website for Terre di Nano (I just chose it because when I saw the picture I knew that was "It&quot, and I think I even read some instructions here on the Fodor's board to 'turn left at the Fiat store' and wouldn't you know I drove by that damn thing three times before I realized THAT'S the Fiat store...That little dirt track road is one lane and I don't know how we didn't meet anyone coming the opposite direction, but I found out later we actually took the longer route. Our place is really only about a mile from Monticchiello. The drive way is the typical long drive lined with trees and ending up at the beautiful main house. We had rented the upstairs La Terrazza apartment. 2 bedrooms, full kitchen, living room, and huge terrace with gorgeous Tuscan hillside views. We were met by Giorgio and I'm sure he said something to us but I couldn't tell you what he said because I think he dazzled my eyes (GOOD looking guy). But not just a pretty face, the family was all very nice and accommodating. I had a nice road map and StuDudley's Val D'Orcia driving tour in hand and the next day we took off exploring ending up at San Antimo - heard the beautiful Gregorian chants and took some great photos. The little restaurant at the end of the road had the worst service so we took off and ended up stopping in some roadside place and ended up with my favorite panini of the week. HUGE and enough for snacks later. The weather was so cooperative, clear and sunny and while it was the harvesting season, there were still so many full green fields and everyone was feeling so "Under the Tuscan Sun".

sheri_lp

The next day was open on our itinerary - so we just went exploring and ended up going to Castiglione del Lago. So, we popped into a grocery store's deli for some excellent pizza to have lunch at the Lago. Soon as I joined the girls and went for my prosciutto pizza, the whole thing slid out of the bag and ended up face down in the sand. You know I wanted to cry...oh well. There's more prosciutto out there. We drove around the walls of the city and headed up the road a bit until we saw the sign for Cortona - I hadn't realized we were so close, but now my sister - the #1 fan of that movie was going to see the city. We walked up that huge hill and once inside, she said - it's not like the movie at all - where's the fountain - where's the movie theatre...Hollywood had broken another heart. But a little gelato made it all better. The views from that hilltop to the lake are spectacular and those are the kinds of days that make a roadtrip worthwhile. The unplanned stops and just following your nose down the road. We enjoyed our taste of Tuscany and headed out the next day to Florence. So this turned out to be the most challenging and unhappy driving day of all. The way we give directions here, is not the same way there. Not only that, but driving toward Florence and not missing that tiny little white sign for the airport and not being able to turn around...oh brother. We were on the phone with Silvio at the Avis place back in Chiusi because we were worried we'd be late and he said we weren't lost at all and there's an hour grace period for returns - and somehow we managed to get the car to the airport. I will be avoiding that step in the future! But we were quickly off to our B&B in town - the Alloro. Nice location, close to the train station and a few blocks from the Duomo, I was so surprised by how compact it was. The street entrance actually opens to a large empty room that has a wall of windows to a courtyard, which is the real entrance to the Alloro. We had a very comfortable room, with a delicious breakfast that they bring to your door. We were also across the street from an internet cafe and had a tasty late lunch up the street. The main thing in Florence for me was to see the Uffizi Gallery. But on our first afternoon, my mom got the shopping bug and she cleaned up a little bit in a nice clothing store then we ran her across the street to take another Red Bus Tour. This one was fun, the stop at the Piazza Michelangelo really gave us the view we were looking for, and I later realized that I was the only one in the group who DIDNT get a pic of me with the Duomo in the background (next time, next time). Although we had an advance reservation time for the Uffizi, we still had to wait a good two hours to get in. My sister said thankfully we even had reservations not like those other people in the "no hope" line. The gallery was magnificent - I so wanted to see the Botticelli room. I just couldn't believe that The Birth of Venus (my fave) and Primavera are in the same room. I just sat there for the longest time just taking it in. I was finally there. The girls loved the art too but it was more for me than for them, so after being released from the museum we went shopping up the street. Came home with a beautiful red leather purse and I hope it always smells like Italy! We had lunch that day in a place that served wild boar sauce, so to celebrate our triumph over, and survival from wild boars, I had a little sauce on the pasta! So delicious - not quite pork, not quite beef but so tender. Then we made our way to the Duomo and was just amazed by the size and it really is monumental. Also saw a little street drama with the African guys spreading out their wares on sheets, getting busted by the cops. Or actually the cops just drove by and the guys wrapped up the stuff and took off running. That last evening we had Chinese take out in the hotel room and just enjoyed not going out. Took off early the next morning by train to Bologna for our flight back to Dublin (best price from Phoenix to Dublin RT). Only got to see a little bit of that town. Our taxi driver was pissed at the guy next to him weaving all over the road. "Chinese" he said. Sure enough, it was a Chinese taxi driver. It was refreshing to see how the immigration issues are being handled in different countries - the immigration building in Dublin had a line around the building.
So we departed Italy and got back to Dublin and we were so happy to see Ireland again - we were like - we're home! Had the nicest driver, Liam take us to our hotel (Grafton Capital Hotel - NOT recommended). He was so nice and conversational we talked about everything, and we asked him to come back the next morning and take us back to the airport (he was early and just as pleasant then too). Our last afternoon in Dublin was spent strolling around Grafton Sreet. Anyone who has seen the movie Once would probably be looking for the street musicians like I was, and there was actually a guy on our corner playing Beatles tunes. We did a little shopping, bought a little wine, and had dinner across from the hotel at the Hairy Lemon pub. All I wanted was a nice fish fillet and Guinness to make me happy and it was a nice end to our trip. Actually the end of our trip had no sleep from the loud bar next to the hotel which was just out of control. That was one place we couldnt wait to get away from. So - I would say to trip planners - make sure there's not a disco or loud bar in or very near your hotel. I'd ask a wine bar to open the bottle for you (which they did in Florence because it's silly to buy a corkscrew). If you're taking your mother with you, I would recommend a little less jumping around - or more nights in one place. Give yourself plenty of time to drive in Ireland - it takes way longer than you think (especially with flat tires) and all the stops to shoot film and buy woolen scarves. Don't drive through the gate by the church in Montalcino it's a dirt track to nowhere and we almost didn't make it back up the hill! And it's ok to leave your camera home once in a while and just soak up the place naturally. And if you really fall in love with the purple patent leather purse - BUY it!

Sassafrass

Really enjoyed your report. Taking the ashes was so poignant and I liked your, "he dazzled my eyes" reason for not hearing what he said. Also, lots of good ideas for future trips. Thanks.